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কেৰ।
Ceylonisthe cradle of the human race because everyonethere looks an original
George Bernard Shaw D

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First Published September 1974
All Rights Reserved
COLOUR AND MONOCHROME PHOTOGRAPHS
by STUDIO TIMES
Colour plates printed
by Original Heidelberg School of Printing
Printed by P. don Nicholas for the Times of Ceylon limited at times Building, Colombo End Published by Studio Times Limited, Times Building, Main Street, Colombo , Sri Lanka

Handbook for the
CEYLON TRAVELLER
A Studio Times Publication

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This book is dedicated to the Island we love

CONTENTS
About Sri Lanka The islanders
Dear visitor N 7 The First City 3 Route A 2 The High Country 3. Galle and Deiyange rata 47 Through Negombo into the timeless past 79 Trincomalee and the eastern Seaboard 7 The Peninsula and Mannar 29 Thanayama 39 Sanctuary 57, Elėphas maximus maximus 83 Grass for your feet ... under canvas 9. Back of beyond 2O7 Caves and Caverns 237 Field and stream 255 Your camera: a sketch-book 263 Getting around 27 The calendar’ 275 Of spice and curry 283 Old stuff-and new 29 Stones that sparkle 293 Vannam, kolam, thalam 299 Exorcism and the occult 303 Nimble fingers 309 Ehala, muruta, araliya 33 King Coconut 32 Where to stay 327 Milage Chart 342 index 343 Rain-Day Chart 354

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THIS book is the work of many people, all of whom have written of things they know and love. They will protest at being called experts', but experts they are on individual facets of Sri Lanka. Moreover, they have travelled the length and breadth of this country, seen, heard, experienced and above all, understood the land, its people and their life. It is this knowledge of the country and its people and the love they have for this island and the islanders that the compilers have tried to infuse into this book.
We hope we have succeeded in preserving that flavour. We have tried hard to be informative, we have been fastidious about accuracy and have been engaged in interminable arguments on different interpretations of many things Ceylonese. But above all, we have tried to leave intact the warmth we found in the script.
This book is not intended only for foreigners. We hope it will be a companion to our own people on their travels through the Island. it may perhaps, tell you of things you did not know and enrich your experience of seeing Sri Lanka in her many splendours.
To the writers and others who helped make this book a reality we are deeply grateful.

LLUSTRATIONS
Faces Page
Swami Rock Trincomalee 64 Kandy Esala Perahera
Elephants - Yala 96 Leopard - Wilpattu
Colombo Fort 28 Gal Vihara - Polonnaruwa
Hambantota Bay
Lion - Yapahuwa
Devotee - Kataragama 60 Mahanuwara - Kandy
. . . . to water
Adam's Peak and shadow
Ruins - Polonnaruwa 92 Terraced Paddy
Buddha statue - Aukana Tea Country - Great Western
Tea pluckers 224 Lankatilleke Vihara - Kandy
By the South Coast
Rehearsal
Python and Deer - Wilpattu 256 Courting Peacock - Yala Monkeys and Monitor Lizard Leopard and kill - Wilpattu
Spotted Deer - Wilpattu 288 Sambur - Wilpattu
Painted Stork - Kumana Python and Monitor Lizard.

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About Sri Lanka
Situation : Island off the southern tip of India. Between 5°55' and 9°50' north and 79°42' and 8° 52' east.
Area: 25,332 Square miles. Length 270 miles
(435 km). Maximum breadth |40 miles (225 km).
Climate : Ranges from 52-75 degrees F in hill
country to 73-90 degrees F in low country.
Capital : Colombo (Population 561,000)
Population : 12,747,755. Race : 7.9 per cent Sinhalese; i 1.1, per cent Ceylon Tamils; 9.4 per cent Indian Tamils; 7.5 per cent Ceylon Moors; i. per cent Others.
Language : Predominantly Sinhala
(Official Language), Tamil and English.
Religion: 67.4 per cent Buddhists,
17.6 per cent Hindus, 7.1 per cent Moslems, 6.9 per cent Roman Catholics, 0.8 per cent, Other Christians, 0.1 per cent Others.
Economy: Agricultural (one of the world's
leading producers of tea and rubber), Coconut, Spices, Gems. Step-up in industry.
 

Principal Tourist Attractions:
Mountain and seaside resorts, wild life sanctuaries, ruined cities, temples and religious festivals, golf, boating and fishing, batiks, brassware, arts and crafts, gems and jewellery, r
Highest Mountain : Pidurutalagala
8,28|| ft. (2,520 m) in the Nuwara Eliya district.
Highest Waterfall : Bambara Kanda Falls
(790 ft.) 241 m.
Longest River : Mahaveli-206 miles (33 km).
Airports : Bandaranaike International Airport, Katunayake , Ratmalana Airport, Colombo ; Palaly Airport, Jaffna. Domestic Airstrips : Amparai, China Bay, Anuradhapura, Wirawila, Sigiriya, Vavuniya, Batticaloa, Minneriya.
Currency : Ceylon Rupee. Foreign currency
changed at all banks and accepted at Government-approved shops. High premium rate of exchange (FEECs) on foreign currency converted to rupees.
Duty-Free Shops : Bandaranaike International
Airport, Katunayake and Chatham Street, Fort, Colombo i.
Entry Procedure : Entry visas not required
from visitors from Britain and her Colonies, Canada, Eire, Malaysia, Pakistan and Singapore for stay of up to six months and Australia, Austria, Denmark, Federal Republic of Germany, Finland, France, ltaly, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Sweden, Switzerland and the USA up to one month's stay. Visitors from other countries should obtain visas from Sri Lanka missions abroad.
Health : Valid vaccination certificate against
smallpox is required from all visitors. Those visiting the Island from areas declared
infected by the WHO should, in addition, have valid certificates of inoculation against cholera and yellow fever.

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દ્ધિનરાકર્ષ SRI LANKA gS O RoADS (MoroRAFLE) S El
N ephant Pass
daft |
rALWAYS
chundikkulani
1.
NATIONAL PARKS
DOMESTC ARPORTS
NERNATONA ARPOR
.
Wawmiya
Kokkalsi iriyaya
Kuchchikweli
Niavetí Kuirinäai Point
Ritigala
Pitts3ff;
Aukaris Kalikudah
Sigiriya
Polonnaruwa N N {C}१ilaw
Mawii) Kurunegala
Negori. Fo Katif Nayake
Battical Peradeniya Galayavatay
O
: ' K w urutalagata . Badula Korf Տ Nuwara Eliya Lahugala Pittuv
Ela ، لي NINGS" Ritmapur 8elihulloya...
Ambepousse
Colorno W Y.
Rätmalana O
Arugar Bay
, Okande ruwețå
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Besota Sinharaja Wawe
Litte Basses
Wirawils Kataragana
mhara Ambargoda の Great Basses
- Giambaratota l-ikkasduwa Kalamatiya ·
Tangale ondra head galle
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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CHAPTER
The Islanders
SRI LANKA is a little island, a pendant, that nestles gently on the swelling bosom of the Indian Ocean. Caressed by warm waters, 770 miles of golden sand ring the Island. Within these sands is green, lush-green, fertile land Sculptured, towards the centre, into soaring mountains. An emerald, fringed by filigreed gold and set in aquamarine-truly a jewelled pendant.
Set 550 miles away from the equator, this island of 25,332 square miles is only 270 miles long and 140 miles across at its widest. Pear-shaped, it is a land of sunshine and rain; of marsh and mountain; of dunes and mangrove swamps; of bays and beaches; of spices and gems; of rivers, lakes and streams; of peacock and majestic elephant and a warm, friendly people. A delightful island that has "...been described as well by the classic Greeks, as by those of the Lower Empire; by the Romans; by the writers of China, Burmah, India and Kashmir; by the geographers of Arabia and Persia; by the mediaeval voyagers of Italy and France; by the annalist of Portugal and Spain; by the merchant adventurers of Holland and the travellers and topographers of Great Britain...." -Tennent.
From the beaches the land rises, gently at first and then steeply to form the south-of-central hill massif-the cool up-country. Reaching up to 8,292 feet, this is rugged, beautiful landscape. On

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these hills, over 50 years ago, coffee was grown, today they are green gardens of tea. Contoured by rolling hills, mountain streams and waterfalls, its heights are as pleasant a place as any from which to study the lie of the land. W
To the north the hills step down, lower and lower, till a little beyond Dambulla they finally reach into the plains of the Vannithe wilderness - flat, gently undulating, occasionally outcropped land that stretches northward, tapering gradually, until it reaches the beaches of Point Pedro in the peninsula of Jaffna. The Vanni is the land of "tanks'-man-made lakes-which have irrigated the widespread paddy fields of this sprawling land, some for over 2,500 years. To the east, South and west the hills descend more abruptly through tea, rubber, coconut and paddy fields to the coast.
it is these hills which, reaching up into the clouds, feed these fertile acres with an abundance of rain-water through many rivers which spread out like arteries between the south-eastern and northwestern coasts. Only one river, the regal Mahaveli ganga flows northwards, carrying its waters through the scorched plains until it flows out into the sea, through many mouths, near Trincomalee.
Two monsoons bless this island. From May to July the wind and rains sweep in, over the sea, from the south-west, to drench the thirst-stricken land on the windward side of the central hills. By the middle of October the wind veers sharply around and hurtles in from over the Bay of Bengal and, until December, the north-west monsoon holds sway-filling the lakes of the Vanni and quickening into life the dry zones of the island. The wind and the rains of these monsoons have been the mould in which this lsland and its people have been cast. In Sri Lanka there are only two seasons; the Yala, when the South-West monsoon blows and the Maha . when, heralded by the crash of thunder and forked lightning, the great North-East monsoon quenches a long drought.
The cultivators in the Island, once the granary of the east, have been, and are yet, the elite of the nation. For them there is no Summer, Winter, Autumn or even Spring. All they have sought, in the heat of the sun, is rain. And the monsoons give them rain. Rain which, for centuries past, has been sought from the gods with the pageant of festivals. Simple, god-loving people, they believe, as they always did, that rain was the answer to the pageantry of their prayer. ベ
The pattern of the monsoons 2,500 years ago was much the same as it is today. The fertility the monsoons brought, and yet bring, is the thread of material life; a thread which has run through 2,500 years of the island's chronicled history. And so a continuance
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of history, centuries old, has grown into a way of life of its people. Watch the people walk, casually, the paths that the kings trod in pre-Christian Anuradhapura. Watch them bow piously, worship and offer flowers at the Sri Maha Bodhi and then turn, laugh and hug a child-aware yet unaware-perhaps, that this Sacred Bo Tree was just a sapling 288 years before the birth of Christ. Watch them laugh, play and shout with joy, as they romp in lakes built by kings when the birth of Christ was yet only prophecy. Here, in this Island, history is no relic: it lives and is lived in.
There is yet another thread that has run entwined with the other, from the very beginning of the island's history. It is the strong thread of faith-faith in the teachings of the gentle Buddha. Tradition has it that, in 543 B.C., Vijaya landed in this island on the very day that the Buddha passed away into Nibbana. (Vijaya, legend says, had a grandfather who was a Sinha-lion - and so his tribe was known as the Sinhala, the Sinhalese of today).
Vijaya and his successors, intent on colonising the island, did not spread the teachings of the Buddha. A perturbed AsokaEmperor the Great of India-sent his son, as a missionary, to the Island. And thus in 307 B.C., arrived in Lanka the beloved apostle, Mahinda. It was on the Ambastale peak of Mihintale, that rises suddenly from the plains eight miles from Anuradhapura, that Mahinda-Prince of Magada, met Devanampiyatissa-King of Anuradhapura and the ruler of the land.
Tennent-from the Mahavamsa-relates the story of the meeting: "The King Devanampiyatissa departed for an elk hunt, taking with him a retinue; and in the course of the pursuit of the game on foot, he came to the Missa mountain. A certain deva, assuming the form of an elk, stationed himself there, grazing; the sovereign descried him, and saying "it is not fair to shoot him standing,' sounded his bowstring, on which the elk fled to the mountain. The king gave chase to the flying animal and, on reaching the spot where the priest was, the thero Mahinda came within sight of the monarch; but the metamorphosed deer vanished.' The gentle apostle, Mahinda, placated the furious, frustrated hunter and spoke to him of the teachings of the Buddha. At the end of the discourse Devanampiyatissa, "together with forty thousand followers, obtained the salvation of the faith.' Since then the teachings of the Buddha have encompassed the island.
This thread of faith-the teachings of the Buddha-has run strongly through more than 2,500 years of the religion and history of this Island. It has entwined itself in the lives of kings and cultivators, of monks and laymen, of politicians and bank clerks; of every man, woman and child. Compassion, that the gentle Buddha
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taught, has influenced the way of life of the Islanders. It has made them the tolerant, hospitable and noble people they are today. The law of Karma-cause and effect-which the Buddha preached gives meaning to their share of suffering and brings solace in time of trial and tribulation. It has removed bitterness from their lives and left behind a smile.
Within the pages of the Mahavamsa-'Genealogy of the Great Dynasty'-which narrated the episode of the meeting of the apostle Mahinda and King Devanampiyatissa, and its continuation, the Culavamsa-'Genealogy of the Lesser Dynasty'-are chronicled the unbroken saga of the lsland, from the landing of Vijaya-543 B.C. to 1758 A.D.-forty years before Sri Wickrema Rajasinha, the last Sinhalese king, ascended the throne of Kandy. Twenty-three centuries of historical narrative, of the deeds of 63 kings and an infinitude of princes, princesses, monks and people live vividly to this day. The originals, beautifully written in Pali verse, were translated into Sinhala and English nearly 150 years ago, instilling afresh the thrill of life into the island's past.
In these chronicles live again-Dutugemunu, the chivalrous; Mahasena, the irrigationist; Sri Sangabo, the saintly; Vijayabahu I, the heroic; Nissankamalla, the enigma; Rajasinha I, the patriot -who like the rest of the Island's kings are one with the present, for through their hands had passed the threads of life.
On a hot day in April 1505, began an epoch of 443 years of foreign occupation by western colonial powers. On that fateful day it was reported to the King of Kotte that in the harbour of Colombo were: "....a race of white beautiful people, who wear boots and hats of iron, and never stop in one place. They eat a sort of white stone, and drink blood; and if they get a fish they give two or three ride in gold for it; and besides, they have guns with a noise louder than thunder, and a ball shot from one of them, after traversing a league, will break a castle of marble.' (Rajavali: Upham). The Portuguese had arrived. To be followed later by the Dutch and finally the British: in terms of dates: 505-1656, 16561796, 1796-948.
The era of western domination, which ended peaceably as recently as 1948, had a tremendous effect on the Island and its people. The laws were to change, sa also its economy. Absolute monarchy gave way to parliamentary democracy. The attire of the people changed and their language drifted into neglect. Their customs changed and many people took on foreign names and some gave up the faith of their fathers to embrace Christianity. Walk down any street, look out of any window and you will see and feel the influence the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British have had on this
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island. You will see it in the architecture of buildings, the names of roads and business houses, in the clothes that people wear, the food they eat and even in their faces. Yet deep within them their way of life is still the same as it was centuries ago-change has been smiled upon.
But centuries before the invaders came, this island was sought after by adventurous navigators. Brave men, using unknown winds, seeking new lands. In the first century B.C. Hippalos, the Greek, 'discovered' the monsoons that the islanders already knew so well. In 6 A.D. a freedman of Annius Plocamus, whose ship had been adrift for 5 days sought refuge in the Bay of Hippuros-Horse Mountain-Kudremalai of today. He was probably the first foreigner to record the hospitality of the people of this island. For six months, till the winds changed, he was the guest of the king in his capital. In appreciation of the king's kindness, he took back with him, to Rome, four Sinhalese ambassadors to establish direct trade with the Roman Empire. w
As time went by the Island was to become the emporium of the East. By the sixth century the port of Mahatittha-Mantota on your road map just north of Mannar-was a hub of activity. Ships from China and the Far East; ships from India, Persia, the Near East, Abyssinia, Arabia, Indonesia. ... all called here for barter and trade.
And with the traders came the travellers. They came seeking a warm land with warm, gentle people. They came seeking beauty and found it. Marco Polo (circa 1293) remarked that it 'is undoubtedly the finest island of its size in all the world." Marignolfi judged it only "forty leagues from Paradise". Over a thousand years have gone by and still "travellers' come seeking the unsophisticated way of life of the islanders and the peace and tranquility of an island where more than 2,500 years of history stand still. −

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CHAPTER 2
Dear visitor,
You come for just two weeks and then fly away You so love our little Island with its smiling, happy people, that quite a few return once again and see a marked change, which upsets you.
assure you it upsets us more because it is our visitors who have
brought about the change.
We are sincerely happy to have you here and meet you on equal terms, however poor many of us may happen to be. As individual humans we would be happier if you did not spoil our sparkling-eyed children with gifts of money to widen further already broad smiles.
Your largesse and generosity to village children does infinite harm. You no doubt think they are penniless little beggars because they perhaps wear torn, patched clothes and the little ones wear nothing at all. Our people out of politeness never refuse anything offered them.
You may meet many islanders who are fatalists and docilely accept everything that happens to them. They just smile and say Karma - their fate. To give you an example-after a semicyclonic storm my roof leaked in a great many places and caused
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damage to a few expensive odds and ends I'd picked up here and there. I went mad, cursed the elements and shattered all my sense of proportion.
Next morning sent two of my 'helpers' on to the roof to repair it. A while later heard them laughing and singing at their job. I asked what amused them. One said his house no longer had a roof and the other had a wall collapse between his bed and his father's, which rather abruptly stopped his father calling him a son of a bitch in an argument they were having at the time. That is "Karma.' The loss of roof and wall worried them not at all. They no doubt stayed with relations, friends or neighbours because the simple folk stand by one another when in difficulty.
It was not so long ago that if when travelling you could not find the place you were looking for you would within minutes be surrounded by people, some just curious and others offering you assistance. You could be certain someone would offer to show you the way, and having done so, walk back. Offering him money for his trouble would be considered an insult. They would perhaps be glad of a cigarette or a cup of tea. Since tourism it has now become a business. "Tell me how much you pay,' would be the first words spoken.
The unspoilt still follow customs and beliefs which have come down the ages. For instance, when a girl comes of age there is a purification ritual and a celebration. In time the parents of both young men and women seek the aid of a marriage broker. The horoscopes are studied and must match, the question of dowry is discussed and then the young man is taken by his parents to visit the home of the girl. If all goes well, then only the parents of the girl return the visit. If it is found on the honeymoon that the bride is not a virgin there is the devik to pay.
A very large percentage believe in the powers of good and bad gods and the existence of devils, and devil-dancing is resorted to, to drive out devils which have entered people in the form of disease, unacy and such manner of things.
Our country has neither suffered the ravages of wars within living memory nor famine, plagues, typhoons, and devastating floods. The native of this our wondrous heritage is considered a lazy chap. He is not. Nature rewards his little effort.
Our people are extremely intelligent and versatile and will turn out anything on God's earth if they are given the blueprints,

materials, (they'll even turn out the required tools if given the wherewithal) and adequate instructions.
It is a pleasure watching young uneducated lads turning out practically new bodies for old cars just with a hammer, a metal cutter and a block of wood. Walk into any small wayside repair shop and there will be at least one vehicle being knocked into shape. I have a pair of magnificent wrought iron gates made to perfection by two teenage boys.
A frightening thought is that if they start life along the wrong road they would end up the most brilliant crooks on earth-but certainly not gangsters.
now suggest a few don'ts for our sakes and yours. If some of these are observed, I am sure your stay and certainly that of those who come after you will be a happy one to be remembered.
Don't scowl, or try to drive people away because they will think you mad or wicked-they will no doubt be delighted and think it an act to be applauded. The vast rose-pink areas of human flesh must attract the curious eyes of those who have not seen such expanses before.
Do not give people money, anything but money if you must, but not trousers nor return air fares because it causes ultimate unhappiness unless one guarantees employment, which as you know is almost impossible in your own countries.
Do not leave temptation in the way by leaving valuables carelessly about. Do not laugh at the customs of people you know nothing about-using one's own fingers to eat is far more sanitary than a fork which had, inadvertently, been used as a toothpick and not washed thereafter.
As in all ancient civilisations we, too, had our sliding scale of mancreated society starting with royalty at the apex right down to grass root level. Feudal in structure our traditional society pigeon-holed persons according to occupations. The "top box' became feudal lords who looked after, guided and generally made use of the lower-grade pigeons, making them their minions and serfs-and that roughly is how your class and our caste system with its attendant snobberies evolved.
shall not go further regarding clan and caste because, why tread on anybody's antiquated toes? The system is fast vanishing but one can't help missing some of its old-world courtesies. In
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Sri Lanka you will still, to a large extent, find them-but of the beaten tourist track.
While passing a poor village house you may be invited in. Your
acceptance will be considered an honour and give the hosts happiness. You will be offered a king coconut to drink. They will laugh, try to entertain you perhaps by asking one of the toddlers to sing an old song of greeting. They will nod and shake their heads. Perhaps an old woman may touch the hem of a garment you are wearing because she has never in her many decades felt such synthetic texture. If they ask you to share a meal, a neighbour's assistance may be sought. Before the meal a tray with drinking water will be taken around to each visitor. The purpose is to wash your mouth before sitting down to food, but instead you just touch the glass as a gesture of acceptance of the invitation. What is dreadful is that all this charming simplicity may be destroyed in seconds by the sudden entry of a whistling young dandy in flashy trousers blowing in saying, "Hullow chaps, so how you like?" probably apologising for the state of their poor, clean but completely unadorned home, apologising for the clothes of his parents because they do not compare with anything from the lustrous West.
Up to the very recent past children looked up to, respected and
loved their parents. A son never smoked in the presence of his father, children did not marry without the blessings of their parents, family ties were indestructible. They seldom wrote of the sincere views of the elders.
All I've just written sounds like the machinations of a silly old
bastard who gloats over the past. There is a great deal along the road the youth of the world have now chosen, but there must be something terribily wrong at some vague point or other on the way to force them to find their happiness with the aid of dope-Surely! Why do so many people visiting our island say, "You seem such a happy, contented people'? Well, because we do not worship money-we hardly have any to worship.
find time to worship the rain for its goodness, time to enjoy Sunsets, the beauty qf nature, we are not jealous, we believe in Fate-as I've said before. We enjoy simple things, children turn out their own toys. The people for generations have helped one another in the fields and in the building of their unpretentious homes, sharing tools, sharing their troubles. lf a child needs a little milkfood the mother next door will not hide her meagre supply under the bed. I had two long spells in hospital in what in the old days was known as the 'pauper's

ward". A ward with 30 beds often had to accommodate more than double that number of suffering souls. The hospitals were hopelessly understaffed, they were dedicated and wonderful but could not cope. The patients, mostly of the village class or the near penniless showered an instinctive love and kindness on one another. I met a few who have become my dearest friends. They are basic, there are no hates, doubts or jealousies.
Tourists as a rule arrive air-conditioned and then I presume, are whisked into air-conditioned (invariably) coaches and dumped into their various allotted air-conditioned cubicles-they then assemble and respective guides tell them what and what not to do. These instructions must be strictly adhered to or they find themselves in trouble.
But you may run into the educated, refined Ceylonese, who is a wonderful host, will take you around the night clubs, bars, give you a whale of a time and no doubt for conversation, tell you of the money he spent in Beirut, the girls he knew intimately in Paris, the geishas of Japan and the what-ncts of where-have-you. But ask him who the last King of Kandy was and he will tell you he knows more about William the Conqueror. You ask who Parakramabahu was and he may ask "and who was the chappie'? They and I are Western-oriented-it's not our fault, our erstwhile rulers felt we should know more of their history than our own-but I wander from the point.
If you meet only people like me and those I've just mentioned do not go away with the idea that you can write a book on Sri Lanka and its delightful, happy, generous people. It will be a waste of time and paper-just try and meet a few simple village folk with their healthy roots in God's own soil. And you will know this country better.
Bevis Bawa 'Brief Bentota.

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CHAPTER 3
The First City
COLOMBO lacks skyscrapers, tube trains, escalators, moving sidewalks, even television and other gadgetry that the modern and sophisticated capitals of the world offer tourist and resident alike. Colombo has instead an old-world charm of her own.
She has class and character. She has grace and beauty. Of variety she has an abundance and nature has been bountiful in her gifts and man prolific in his works.
Like other ancient capital cities, Colombo is steeped in antiquity. Her streets are paved with history and sometimes names tend to be misleading. Colombo Fort, for instance is not a place which the Ceylonese successfully stormed to wrest independence from the British in 1948. The Fort is the business and banking citadel of both Colombo and the country. Among the relics of history in the Fort are the residence of the President of the Republic, and the office of the Prime Minister. The name owes its origin to the fact that the Portuguese, who ruled the maritime areas of Sri Lanka from 1505 to 1656, and the Dutch who held sway from 1656 to 1796, had their forts and fortifications on this spot. It was just a little over a century ago that the British razed the last traces of the Dutch fortifications.
The Fort was the scene of bitter fighting between the Dutch and the British, but those red flecks on the roadways which look suspiciously like bloodstains are nothing more than betel juicean aromatic leaf which many Ceylonese masticate with a combination of arecanut, tobacco, chunam and spices.
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Among other names in Colombo that are misleading are Hulftsdorp, Cinnamon Gardens, Slave Island and Kayman's Gate. Hulftsdorp, where the country's biggest legal battles are now fought, was named after a Dutch Governor, Hulft. No cinnamon. groves can now be found in Cinnamon Gardens. Today, Cinnamon Gardens is Colombo's most fashionable residential area. There are no slaves in Slave Island, which is not an island either. Caymen in Dutch means crocodile, but no such reptiles can be found at Kayman's Gate, or in any part of the metropolis today.
Colombo's variety lies not only in the diversity of its sights but also in its people, their creeds, communities and customs.
The SINHALESE who are the major racial community, are bronze in complexion and pleasant in appearance and range from the humblest to the highest in the land. Their styles of dress are generally based on occupational status. The working class mainly wear the traditional sarong not only for economic, but also for practical reasons such as the steamy, humid climate. From whitecollar worker class upwards, however, the Sinhalese, wear either Western dress or the national dress, the latter resembles the Roman toga but is two-pieced.
The TAMILS, who are the largest racial minority, have their traditional homelands in the North and East of the Island but have migrated to Colombo for employment, for business, professional, or educational purposes. Thrifty, industrious and hardworking, they are regarded as the Scots of Sri Lanka.
The MUSLMS are the descendants of the Arab traders who preceded the western nations to Sri Lanka in search of spices and precious stones.
The descendants of the European settlers in the Island are known as BURGHERS. They are generally fair in complexion and speak English as their mother tongue.
Among the foreign communities found in Colombo are the BRITISH, who work mainly in mercantile firms and banks; the CHINESE who own restaurants and shops; and the INDIANS engaged in commerce and trade.
Some of the largest, the oldest and the newest hotels are sited in Colombo.
The Taprobane, the Grand Oriental Hotel of yore, is in the
heart of the Fort and from its "Harbour Room' diners get a panoramic view of the harbour. The Ceyl inco Hotel with its
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Akase Kade, a restaurant perched high over the city roofs serves the traditional Sinhalese breakfast of egg-hoppers for an unusual dinner. Almost opposite is the 252-roomed five-star Super luxury Hotel Ceylon Inter-Continental with a commanding view of the sea and the Galle Face promenade.
Beyond the Fort and at the other end of the promenade is the Galle Face Hotel, by the sea. Dedicated to yesterday's charm and tomorrow's comfort, the hotel started in 887, has catered to the most important persons of the day. Close by is Holiday inn with its mogul architecture, each window looking out over the grand vistas of landscape and the sea. Around the corner is the 266-room Hotel Lanka Oberoi. It is of unique design with a large traditional meda midula-open central lobby-with the guest rooms on all four sides looking down into it. Further south, at Kollupitiya, the Hotel Renuka, is well known for its Ceylonese cuisine.
While priorities in seeing the sights of Colombo inevitably depend on personal preferences some places like the National Zoological Gardens at Dehiwala, a southern suburb of the city, would appeal to anyone of any age. The Zoo is reputed to be one of the world's best.
The Colombo Museum is a repository of the culture of the people of Sri Lanka which dates back to the period of protohistory. For visitors who do not have the time to visit the ancient capitals of the island the Museum is the best alternative.
Colombo's premier civic centre is the Town Hall, an imposing building whose gracious architecture is highlighted by its vast surrounding lawns and the largest park in the city, known as the Viharamahadevi Park, which faces it. Colombo is rightly known as a Garden City, for there is lush and luxuriant vegetation everywhere but in the Viharamahadevi Park the natural beauty of the land is seen at its best. The park's present name commemorates a famous queen in the island's history. Her statue can be seen in the park, which originally was named after Queen Victoria of England.
Within the very spacious acres of this park, with its atmosphere of restfulness and detachment (the drowsy buzz-buzz-buzz of the cicadas might full you to sleep) are a profusion of exotic tropical plants and trees, ferns, lotus ponds, orchid house and fountains. To name some trees, ebony, mahogany, lemon eucalyptus, fig, candle, cannon ball whose lovely sal-flowers blossoming on trailers from the trunk scent the air.
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A visit very early in the morning (opening time 7 a.m.) may be rewarded with the sight of a hare darting across the grass, or the croodling of a koravakka (water hen) in the underbrush. The barbets, drongos, woodpeckers, Indian blue rollers, parrots, magpie robins, tailor birds, mynahs, orioles, the seven sisters (babblers), are some of the many forms of bird life to be seen in the little glades of Viharamahadevi Park. Flying foxes, huge fruit-eating bats with a wing span of sometimes two feet, roost in colonies in the branches of large trees, screeching, mating and squabbling.
Amorous couples are attracted by the seclusion and quiet of this park, particularly on a Sunday or holiday. The park's openair stadium is the scene of concerts and theatrical entertainment.
To the east of the park is a series of long, rectangular ponds, forming a vista leading to a huge 'golden' sedent statue of the Buddha.
Most of the city's recreational facilities are pleasant legacies of British rule. There are special clubs for games such as golf, tennis, rowing, swimming, cricket and rugby football.
The cinemas, and night-clubs in Colombo do not differ much from those in other parts of Asia except that they are less expensive.
The big department stores are in the Fort area. At one time they sold only goods manufactured by the West. In recent years they have begun to retail the best in local confectionery, foodstuffs, textiles, ready-made garments and handicrafts.
There are also government-owned organisations. The most popular state-run emporium is "Laksala' where every type of local handicraft is on sale. The Government exercises strict vigilance over purchases for this sales point and the items on display are the work of skilled Ceylonese craftsmen in wood, cloth, clay, silver and brass.
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In addition to the many gem and jewellery shops in the city, the Government runs three exclusive showrooms for the foreign visitors.
Bargain-hunters and those who are adventurously inclined can continue the shopping they have begun in the Fort, in the adjoining bazaar area, known as the Pettah-a teeming bazaar with haberdashery, sarees, handlooms, trinkets, local toys and other knick-knacks.
The Pettah ends up in fish, meat, poultry and vegetable markets.
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No visitor to Colombo can fail to be struck by the diversity of places of worship. In Sri Lanka all the major religions of the world co-exist in harmony and there is even a remarkable degree of interparticipation, especially during the major festivals of the various religions.
Numerically, there are more BUDDHIST temples in Colombo than churches, kovils or mosques. The Young Men's Buddhist ASSociation has built a shrine room in the heart of the Fort, affording tourists in transit a glimpse of the religion which holds Sway over the minds and hearts of the majority of Ceylonese. The oldest temple in Colombo is the Dipaduttarama Paramananda Purana Vihara at Kotahena.
The Gotami Vihara at Borella, about four miles east of the Fort, is a modest structure, but well worth a visit. The life of the Buddha is depicted in very impressive murals done in a modern idiom by George Keyt, the well-known Ceylonese painter.
The issipatanaramaya temple at Havelock Town is famous for its beautiful frescoes while the Vajirarama temple at Bambalapitiya, is a centre of missionary monks who have taken the message of Buddhism to Europe and America. One of the oldest seats of Buddhist learning in Colombo is the Vidyodaya Pirivena, which was established in 1874. It was the headquarters of a Buddhist revival towards the end of the last century when an American, Col. Henry Olcott, encouraged Buddhists to take greater interest in education and the cause of Buddhism generally.
The HINDU kovils which are easy of access are the two Kadiresan temples along the Galle Road in the south of the city. Among the other leading Hindu kovils in Colombo are the Ponnambalavanesvar Kovil, the Mariaman Sivan Temple and the Pillaiyar Arunachallisvera kovi I.
The other major religion represented in Sri Lanka is ISLAM. The minarets of the Moors' Islamic Cultural Home can be seen in the Fort itself while further inland but less than three miles away is the mosque attached to Zahira College, Maradana, which is the largest in Colombo. The Davatagaha mosque, near the Town Hall, the mosque in New Moor Street in the Pettah and the mosques in Slave island (now officially known as Kompannaveediya) are all worth visiting.
Among CHRISTIAN places of worship, the oldest is the church which the Dutch built at Wolvendahl. It is a massive building constructed in Doric style. During Dutch times Governors who died in the lsland were buried in Gordon Gardens, opposite what is now the Prime Minister's office. In 183, however, the British transferred the remains of all these Governors to the church
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at Wolvendahl, which remains an enduring monument to a chapter in Sri Lanka's history. Incidentally, Wolvendahl means "Dale of the Wolves.' There were no wolves in the Island, so the Dutch obviously mistook the jackals that roamed the periphery of th church for wolves.
The largest church in Colombo is St. Lucia's Cathedral, which the Roman Catholics in Colombo completed in 1910, after 34 years of construction work. The main nave of the church alone can accommodate 6,000 persons.
Close to St. Lucia's on the edge of the harbour is another Roman Catholic church dedicated to St. Anthony. Miraculous powers are attributed to the statue of the saint. Particularly on a Tuesday, people of various faiths flock to this church in their thousands, a striking example of co-existence and inter-participation which a visitor should See.
For many years Colombo was a city of stately homes. They were built in massive proportions when taxes were unheard of and domestic labour was both plentiful and cheap. With the increasing incidence of taxation the spacious gardens, tennis courts and stables could no longer be maintained and many owners sold land in blocks for the construction of Smaller houses and flats. Some of the houses built in the grand style are to be seen along the Galle Road and in Cinnamon Gardens. Many of the one-time family mansions are now occupied by diplomatic missions, government offices and corporations, libraries and schools.
Colombo is also a tree lover's paradise: the flowering trees number at least a dozen species, ranging from white through the colours of the spectrum. July is the most prolific season.
Anthuriums and roses, chrysanthemums and calladium, multicoloured bougainvillea, coleus and croton-these and many more make Colombo's gardens a riot of colour. From grass to bush, from bush to shrub, and shrub to tree, flit a large variety of birds of many hues and magnificent plumage. Volumes have been written on the Island's bird life and strangely most varieties can be seen in Colombo itself. Modern industry is changing Colombo's landscape, but the old Colombo fascinates visitor and resident alike. Less than three miles north of the Fort is Mutwal. Once it was the abode of the rich. The expansion of Colombo harbour changed the character of the place but old traces remain. Here, fishermen set out to sea in catamarans similar to those which their ancestors used for generations.
Sunsets that bathe the city's shoreline are so beautiful that they defy description.
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ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, DEHIVVALA : "When a friend says to someone new to Colombo 'What about an afternoon at the Zoo?" one hesitates, seeing ahead a few tiring hours in an atmosphere of bad smells, dust, litter and regulations. What a pleasant surprise awaits the person paying a first visit to the Zoo in Colombo.''
So wrote Lord Sempill in the Visitor's Book, of his first experience at the National Zoological Gardens at Dehiwala nearly 25 years ago.
Indeed, this sentiment is true to this day for the clean, colourful and friendly Zoo has retained, if not greatly enhanced, its uniqueness during the ensuing years.
Located as it is in suburbia it is within easy reach of tourist and resident alike. It is just six miles from the city to the Zoo at Dehiwala.
Why see this Zoo?
Primarily, because you still have not seen tropical animals in a tropical setting. There are no heated houses for apes or concrete mansions for elephants. Instead, you will see animals frolicking in little glades, birds winging their way through the trees and gibbons leaping from branch to branch in their island home.
Or take the terrain, its undulating lines emphasised by dense foliage, bright flowers and grassy slopes which cradle the animals in shaded enclosures-the terrain which so enthralled the American writer, Emily Hahn, that she says in her book on World Zoos, "At the ornate gateway where i stopped to buy a ticket, I felt rather as if I were perching on a soup-plate full of watercress. On the rim criss-crossed with pathways, girls in saris and men in white clothes ambled about; . . ."
Then there are the elephants. You will see them in the largest numbers outside a game park. There are twelve, led by a matron of 50 named Letchimi and tailed off by little one-year-old Mithura (friend). These elephants are a gleaming black unlike their ashyskinned counterparts in temperate zoos. Watch their cavorting in the flowing waters of their bathing pools every morning, their mock battles when free in their corral, or their serious countenance as they heave tons of foliage for their friends' dinner. You can take your first elephant ride seated on an old-fashioned seat or howdah if you come between 3.30 and 5 any afternoon.
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If this is not enough then wait for their daily performance at 5.5 when these behemoths disprove Shakespeare's "An elephant hath joints, but none for courtesy " as they bow and bend, sit, stand on two feet and even go waltzing along to the beat of a drum. It is not an ordinary circus act but a pleasant display by educated elephants who enjoy it most of all.
Yes, this feeling of happiness pervades the air. There is a sense of well-being reflected in the fine animals you will see. Massive gorilas, imperious tigers, black panthers, rare white-lipped deer (the only ones outside the Peoples' Republic of China), mountain lions from the Americas, breeding rhinos and giraffes-they will all infect you with their zest and vivacity.
Similar good relations are extended into the world of reptiles. Compatible groups of harmless snakes live together in open-top but walled-in reptiliaries. You will see iguanas cheek by jowl with trinket snakes, small crocodiles eating humble pie with terrapin and tortoises. But in the formal terraria are green mambas, deadly rattlers, indigo snakes, vipers and the typically oriental cobras. Stand-out among the latter are an exquisite duo of albino Cobras, the envy of all herpetologists.
Nestling in this tropical landscape with interesting look-out points are well-appointed summer-houses, patios and picnic areas which enable you to break your journey into comfortable lengths. You could have a spicy pastry at the snack bar or a curry and rice lunch with an aperitif at the large and airy restaurant in the centre of the Zoo.
With the Zoo going modern in concept, the old aquarium, too, has had to be replaced. A complete yet simple and compact underwater experience has just been installed. As on terra firma the waterscapes in the individual 2,000-gallon tanks take you on a scuba-trip through Lanka's warm waters of river, lagoon and ocean. The scenes are true replicas of and the fishes faithful to the ecological communities depicted in this unique ensemble. The decor in which only local materials have been used, is both real and soothing. You can stay in this underwater world from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily with a dinner break in the cafeteria upstairs. ,
Wander around in these fifty acres of beautiful garden; take it at a leisurely pace just following the numbered arrows. Feast your eyes, soothe your nerves, but above all, ponder on the animals' message: "We are happy here. Preserve our kind for posterity.'
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CHAPTER 4
Route A1
BY every account, the old road to Kandy was no great shakes as a highway. Sir Hardinge Giffard, a former Chief Justice of the island, who had to traverse it regularly for his assizes, thus anathematized it : ' Marshes and quagmires, puddles, pools and swamps . 豫
There is no denying the road was a bad one, so maintained by the Kandyan kings as a defence against invasion of the Hill Kingdom, and a very long way round. It ran via Hanwella, Avissawela, Ruwanwella, Arandara, Hettimulla, Attapitiya, the Balana Pass and Amunupura-today you can follow most of the route by carand crossed the Mahaveli River into Kandy at Gannoruwa : a distance of about 85 miles.
It was only natural that after the fall of the Kandyan Kingdom the British, eager to open up the country for both military and commercial purposes, should seek a more direct approach and a better road. The new road was commissioned by Governor Sir Edward Barnes in 1820. Captain E. F. Dawson surveyed the trace of it in a mere three months, although "he had often to creep along the beds of torrents to enable him to make any progress'; So lacking even in footpaths was the terrain and so heavy the undergrowth he had to fight through, and work began the same year. By 1823, though malaria had taken terrible toll from European and Ceylonese worker alike and wild elephants were a continual and
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very real menace, wheeled traffic was already able to use long sections of the route; but not until 1832 were all the streams finally bridged, culminating in a magnificent Satinwood Bridge over the Mahaveli at Peradeniya.
A monument to Captain Dawson stands at Kadugannawaan exact replica of the shaft upholding the statue of the Duke of York in London, and begun on the same day. A mail coach to Kandy, inaugurated in 1832 was the first such service in Asia.
There are two digressions as you leave the city. The firsta must if you are not already familiar with its objective-is of 2 miles, turning right just beyond the 5th mile to the great temple at Kelaniya. Ask your way about a mile and a quarter after you turn of and use the opportunity to visit one of the many potteries where amongst more utilitarian things the charming Kelaniya "animals' are turned out.
Here, where according to tradition, the sacred feet of the Buddha once trod, there stands the Kelaniya Raja Maha Vihara. The Buddha is believed to have graced Kelaniya on his third visit to the Island and it is said bathed in the Kelani river, which flows close to the temple.
in the third century B.C., King Yatala Tissa built a city around the existing dagaba. Tradition relates that during the reign of a successor, in punishment for an act of revenge against a member of the sangha, the sea inundated a vast portion of his kingdom. Seeking to placate it he set his daughter Vihara Maha Devi adrift in a golden boat which came ashore near Kirinda in the south-east of the Island. The princess became the wife of King Kavan Tissa of that region, and the mother of the hero Dutugemunu. Successive waves of Tamil invaders were to leave the city in ruin.
When Vijayabahuill of Dambadeniya (A.D. 232-1236) ascended the throne he built a new city on the old and restored the temple. With the advent of the Portuguese the city was ravaged once again. The present renovated temple, a spfendid example of Sinhalese art, was built about 300 A.D. The place has now been declared a Sacred Area. Murals adorn the inner walls of the temple, where is found a large recumbent image of the Buddha.
An annual perahera, though on a smaller scale than that in Kandy, is held during the lunar month of Duruthu (January). This very colourful perahera is well worth seeing, particularly as it is so convenient for those living in and around Colombo.
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The second digression-again turning right: this time just beyond the 7th mile-is also a temple, though a considerably minor one, at Sapugaskanda, on a hilock on the right, two milles along the side road. The attraction here is the murals in the "old building. The view from the terrace of the small stupa is very lovely, looking across the fertile lower valley of the Kelani River toward the misty Sabaragamuwa hills. Colombo is visible if you want to look back at it.
The murals depict the arrival in Sri Lanka of a Burmese sage, Jagara Hamuduruvo, to help settle a dispute concerning the long-contradicted right of other castes than the govi (farmer) to higher ordination (upasampada). The Sapugaskanda murals were by the favourite Sinhalese disciple of the Burmese artist, and the difference from the conventional work of the period is clear in the jataka paintings on the walls and the zodiacal design on the ceiling.
Continuing on the main road one comes, again on the righthand side, near the 8th mile, to the Mahara Rest-house. Little, if anything, now remains to prove it but the place was once a Dutch cantonment and seems to have included a jail. Two miles farther on lies Kadawata. In ancient days, kadavata signified a great screen of woven thorn which could be raised and lowered like a stage act-drop and was hung across the roadway at each entrance to a Sinhalese city's environs. There were generally four such stations. Whence a peculiarly Ceylonese hobson-jobson word in use to this day.
The Gravets, or Four Gravets, of a town are the official precincts that lie just outside it; but each colonial power that ruled Sri Lanka added a characteristic corruption to the origin of the name. The Portuguese, weak in their pronunciation of dentals, called a kadavata a caravata. The Dutch, with their penchant for utturals, said garavata. And the British with their clipt disdain or open vowels and foreign polysyllables made the word gravet.
Beyond the eastern gravet of Colombo one moves into pineapple country. Tall racks of the luscious fruit tempt the wayfarer on either hand, so it is as well that he brush up on pitfalls for the purchaser. Sri Lanka has grown pineapples for many centuries (it is interesting that what would appear to be the first mention of pineapple as an accompaniment to meat was made by the traveller J. W. Heydt (1744) who goes out of his way to state that he had never met the combination in Batavia though pineapples were there, too, numerous) but the semi-wild variety, Sinhala: gal-annasi, small and greenish-skinned even when ripe, often sweet but invariably sharp, is seldom offered on the Kandy Road. The choice is
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between murisi and kiv or kuvin recognizable, surely, as Mauritius, Kew and Queen respectively. Now, between these three names lie only two varieties; of which the Mauritius is one. Just to keep things foolproof, this variety is, in the West Indies, called the Ceylon. The other is the Kew. The Queen has no official existence. The pineapple-plot thickens. The Kew was developed in the famous Gardens from a West Indian type known as the Smooth Cayenne. But Kew can also be spelt, if you put your mind to it, Queue (though the name better fits its rival's old-hairdo shape) or, to add only a little more confusion, simply Q. And what Q more fitly stand for, considering its size-up to 4 pounds-and the fact that it is sometimes crowned with two, or even three, prickly green top-knots, than Queen ? Voila To turn to more practical lore: the Mauritius is the better dessert fruit; while the Kew though dripping with scented syrup is somewhat stringy-fleshed. The Mauritius is a slightly elongated and conical fruit, with orange-tinted skin and golden-hued flesh when ripe; while the Kew is more barrel-shaped, greenish yellow in skin when ripe, and pale yellow in flesh. In any pineapple a well-scented fruit is generally good. A too dry stem means the fruit has been kept overlong. A fruit with soft spots, bruises or discolourations should be avoided.
Now for a moment of decision. At Miriswatta Junction (mile post 6 as near as makes no difference) will you digress right, as usual, and visit the most charming little temple in the Western Province-a cave temple this, but no archaeologist's piece: merely a well-used, well-loved village place of worship, an oustanding one of its type-or digress left and visit the Henaratgoda Gardens, just beyond Gampaha, which overshadowed by Peradeniya and Hakgala are nothing like as visited as they deserve to be. Let us justify them first.
The gardens were established for a historic purpose-the Propagation of the first para rubber seedlings to be successfully grown outside their native Brazil. The story is amongst the most fascinating of botanical true-romances - the smuggling of the seeds down the Amazon in bales of cotton; the intensive research for the best technique of exploiting the tree commercially; the development of various technological uses for the product, including the rubber tyre that made the automobile industry possible-and the sequel is more exciting still. From these trees came the seeds dispersed throughout South-east Asia to give a dozen countries a financial mainstay, and the economic revolution that sprang from them broke forever the ruthless rule of the South American rubber barons' and made of their millionaires' city, Manaos, with its marble pavements and gold-plated WCs, a ghost town.
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No. 6 at Henaratgoda was the first tree to be planted; but the most famous is No. 2, which yielded 392 pounds of dry rubber in less than five years at a time when every aspect of growing and tapping' was still experimental. But there is more to see than the rubber grove: a plantation, for instance, of Chaulmoogra, an ancient Eastern specific against leprosy long disregarded by the West; a rare collection of palms; and magnificent trees of many kinds. Trees, indeed (rather than flowers) are the glory of Henaratgoda, and the most impressive of all are giants from the South American continent seen here to better effect than in any of Sri Lanka's other Gardens. There are also preserved on either side of the entrance gate, two small patches of untouched 'jungle'; an unusually imaginative exhibit. The town of Gampaha lies a little over two miles from Miriswatta Junction, and Henaratgoda a little less than three quarters of a mile beyond. -
On your return through the town you may take from it a road to Yakkala Junction, rejoining (AI) there and saving about a mile and a half; but you are urged not to. Get back to Miriswatta, cross (A) to its right-hand side, and follow the road before you through Kinigama Junction (2 mls.) to the Uruwala Temple about a mile further on and to your left. On your way back turn right at Kinigama and you will get to Yakkala Junction anyway.
Uruwala Vihara is a place of piety and simple devotion. Its courtyard is spotless. An unexpected flight of steps from a rockroofed passage leads to a perennial pool, all-green embowered, into which sparkling water continually splashes. And there is a stonebow to keep crows away without (one supposes) any risk of hitting them! That is the kind of temple this is.
One can have too much of a good thing, but there is another temple worth seeing reached by a slight digression-2 miles plus a short right-hand approach-from Tihariya Junction almost exactly 22 miles from Colombo on the right-hand side. Warana is a very fine series of cave temples indeed, if judged purely on the merits of the caves. Most of these are not deep, but they have tremendously high and impressive drip-ledged brows, some as high as forty or fifty feet, many showing traces of ancient frescoes under the overhang; and the built-up walls of clay between the ground and the rock roof, show exactly how caves were used as shelters in the earliest times. it is noteworthy that a number of the caves seem to have been artificially hewn from rock cliffs, and no doubt this was also an early practice. The temple is a vast place, built upon three different maluvas (levels) and the toilsome climb to the summit of the rock is rewarded by an extraordinarily sweeping view of the Island's lush fertility.
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The vihara's pride is a library, of painful pretensions. Warana more than qualifies for the attention of the connoisseur of this sort of thing. The site is of extraordinary antiquity: an inscription in situ is held by some epigraphists to date as far back as the very foundation of Buddhism in Sri Lanka, the 3rd Century BC. Tradition claims restorations here from all periods of the Sinhalese monarchy up to the very last king, Sri Wickrema Raja Sinha.
Returning to the main road, look out on your left for a large and rundown upstair bungalow of obviously 9th Century countryhouse vintage, and for the striking tree that rears before it. Thisnot many folks recognise it-is a durian, that weirdly foetid, strangely captivating East Indian fruit whose not least virtue is its reputation as an aphrodisiac. By the side of the oval drive to the bungalow grow several examples of the Ceylon Sago (Cycas circinalis : Sinhala Madu) according to botanists a living fossil of the plant world. As
A little further on, on the opposite side of the road, the right, is a small orchard of mangosteen. Both these are signs that you are approaching a spot of melancholy contemporary importance, the simple but dignified tomb of S. W. R. D. Bandaranaike, Sri Lanka's Prime Minister, assassinated in 1959 in ushering in the nation's New Era of the common man. Ironically, the tomb stands in the grounds of his father's mansion, Horagolla. The mansion was an imitation of an English manor house, from its brocaded parlour walls to its park-like gardens and private zoo, just as its owner Sir Solomon (Maha-Mudaliyar: highest of Ceylonese officials under the British) cultivated the British aristor cratic style, from " topper' to spats, which his son inherited and spurned. The Maha Mudaliyar's grave lies across the road from his son's, on a grass-grown hillock overshaded by a splendid specimen of the most handsome officuses, Ficus Benjamina.
v Now follows a series of minor attractions up to the next digression that you may find worth your while. You are hardly likely to be attracted by cement flower-pots, nevertheless a conglomeration of stalls selling them extends for some distance almost from the gates of Horagolla. Rather more interesting is a small shop (left) at Nittambuwa junction, selling traditional and near-traditional Sinhalese musical instruments. Some miles further along (near milepost 29) are the famous cadju stalls of the Kandy Road, where it is not only the excellence of cashew-nuts nor the slightly acrid yet infinitely appetising smell of their toasting nor the colourful pictures revealed at night by the flames at which they are toasted, but the charms of the sellers themselves-betel-reddened lips, loose raven hair, bright garments and judiciously disposed elastic straps-that bring the stalls continuous custom. Today's
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young ladies are at least as prepossessing in their own style, as a candy-seller in a New York night-club, and with less effort. The Stalis first opened, when the first buses on the Kandy Road began to run and a little colony of drivers settled hereabouts, finding this a convenient halfway house, and a few of their wives chose this as a way to augment meagre incomes, arrayed in nothing more than, simple "camboys' and the briefest of bodices-ordinary home clothes, then. They depended on no more studied artifices than the buxom contours of their own golden flesh.
On to Bataliya-about milepost 30- a village well named, for now appear stalls in which the merchandise is basketware made of bata, splits of a quil-like bamboo (Ochlandra spp.) or of veval: cane, there being appropriately enough in a village named Weweldeniya-ye-val-deniya-close by. Lamp shades from "cooly' hats, and the like, and a variety of utility basketware are sold here.
A short distance beyond, on the left, is a Government Pottery Centre where one may pick up a beautiful throw. There is a cottage industry plied all over this area - the manufacture of beedis a kind of miniscule cigar with a slightly scented flavour from the circumstance of their being made of an almost imponderable quantity of chopped tobacco wrapped in the dried leaves of kadumberiya, an aromatic shrub. The process of manufacturehandwork entirely-is worth watching, for its deftness. There are those who can wrap much more than a thousand beedis a day.
You drive past Warakapola, a busy little bazaar and just beyond milepost 36 stands the rest-house at Ambepussa, affording a welcome break of journey. The town possesses an important devala situated on the steep hill above, dedicated to the Goddess Pattini. Ambepussa has known stirring times of a sort. The valley through which the Kandy Road lies hereabouts was its most notorious death-trap (from malaria) when the road was being built.
it has even had its own gold rush. A party of ex-prospectors from Australia digging about the middle of the last century judged, from the appearance of the rocks (in the Maha Oya stream close by) that gold must exist in its sands." Indeed they found some, but not in workable quantities.
To the right of the road 50 yards beyond milepost 37 is a small shop selling "native' sweets (some of them are derived from the Portuguese). A few are quite delectable. To the nonCeylonese is recommended tala-guli, an altogether indigenous eat. tala is gingelly, teel-seed, sim-sim (whence sesame) it has many names. The sweet is nothing but the carefully cleaned and decorti
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cated seed pounded with jaggery and a touch of salt until the oil in which the seed abounds blends sufficiently with the jaggery to enable the mixture to be formed into small balls or rolls: guli. Despite the simplicity of the recipe the product has a delicious nutty flavour and a pleasant texture. The roasted seed is also sometimes used, blent with sugar syrup and formed either into balls or small lozenge-shaped cakes. Several other sweets are sold here. There is alpal a kind of "pulled jaggery, or 'taffy"; and kadju kordial: a fudge of cashew-nuts in a jaggery base, puhul dosi (crystallized pumpkin) a very pleasant sweet indeed.
A digression which really should not be missed lies to the right at Nelundeniya junction. At the farthest point (about 8 miles) is the newly-tenanted ancient and secluded forest hermitage of Salgala. Much nearer in (4 miles) is the site of the Portuguese outpost at Menikkadawara; The real attraction lies only 2 miles from the main road, at Dedigama: earlier Datigama, and earlier still Punkhagama of the Mahavamsa. This was the mid-12th Century capital of one of three principalities into which Sri Lanka had fallen divided by this time, but its greatest interest to most folk is that here was born King Parakramabahu I, surnamed The Great (53-186). Parakramabahu himself appears to have been of much the same opinion, and the most important relic here is the recently conserved stupa by which he marked for posterity this event for which he was in no way responsible. The stupa, Kota Vehera, is of a style which King Parakramabahu seems to have invented for himself and is grandiose, having eight relic chambers instead of the normal one. In one of these chambers was found a votive object now on display in the small and specialized but admirably lucid and informative archaeological museum near the site, which is perhaps the most generally attractive feature of presentday Dedigama. The votive object was a lamp-lamps were customarily offered-but one of unique design. It is a small bronze saucer lamp suspended by a chain whose links are interrupted at intervals by charming figurines of dancers in bharata natyam poses.
Its most engaging feature is the method adopted to keep the saucer, from which burned the protruding wicks, filled with oil. In the saucer stands a beautifully proportioned howdahed elephant which is the lamp's chief decoration. When the level of oil dropped below a certain quantum the elephant solemnly and unselfconsciously did what elephants do (as anybody who watches an elephant for any length of time cannot fail to notice) and the saucer, by the ingenious employment of a hydro-static principle, was refilled.
You should complement your visit to Dedigama by visiting its founder's subsequent capital Belligala. (Turn left on to the
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narrow road that branches northward just before milepost 42, and the site is less than 2 miles). A temple stood here, as early as the 3rd Century BC. It was the "King' of DedigamaGajabahu II, Parakramabahu's uncle, guardian and protector, and eventually his rival and victim who shifted his palace here. Only the temple, enlarged and beautified by successive kings, especially the Dambadeniya ones, survives as a significant building, but on two tall pinnacles of rock near it are the ruins of many more, including a 13th century shrine for the Tooth Relic of the Buddha. The original temple is a good example of the hypostyle, built-on-pillars and typical of the Dambadeniya period and contains much interesting stonework, including a moonstone of unusual beauty.
To the left of the road between the 46th and 47th mileposts stands the first tea factory (Ambanpitiya) on your route, and one where visitors are made welcome. Not all the manufacturing technique here is of the latest; but everything basic is to be seen, and there is no place to see it more conveniently. The tea (on sale here) is what is technically known as "low-grown' or "lowcountry.' Low-grown teas are favoured, for "body'; high-grown (i.e. at 4,000 ft. elevation or more) for "bouquet.' Mid-country teas, (214,000 ft.) have both ... or neither, according to who tells you!
Kegalla is a large town, its outskirts are not unpleasant, and its inhabitants love it. Beyond Kegalla the road is featureless for some miles, save a view of the striking pinnacle called Utuwankanda-probably: Sinhala otiuvan-kanda, Camel Hill-known in English as Castle Rock, which was the hideout of Sri Lanka's " Robin Hood '-Sardie.
Many are the stories told of Sardiel, but he was known to have used the vantage point of Utuwankanda to watch the movements of carriages doing the Colombo-Kandy run. Descending from the hill he and his "merry men would rob the rich travellers and, it is claimed, distribute a good part of the spoils to the poor.
Almost hsdden among the jostling buildings of Mawanella bazaar, on the right of the road, stands a monument to one of the victims, and to the final captors of this highly romanticized 9th century highwayman. Sri Lanka's Robin Hood had a masterful way with women-or with some women, as most criminals haveand an even more masterful way with men . . . if he had them at the wrong end of a gun.
The famous Kadugannawa Pass, the new gate to Kandy, begins at Ganetenna, exactly 59 miles from Colombo, where there is a small field below the road, at the right. King Rajasinhal, one of Sri Lanka's greatest rulers is said to have buried up to their necks
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a parcel of uncomplaisant monks in this field and had their heads ploughed off.
in early motoring days this was the commonest mountain road to challenge the labouring horsepower of the period. The road rises something over 800 ft. in three miles, making two hairpin bends only, and its maximum gradient near the end is in 0. Be that as it may, a businesslike lift in the roadway unmistakably proclaims the beginning of the climb. A little more than halfway up the pass, beyond milepost 60, is a pretty little ambalama in Kandyan style, though spoilt now by the substitution of Calicut' tiles for the flat clay squares-often laid in geometrical designthat tiled the typical Kandyan roof. The provision of ambalamas, shelters for wayfarers to rest in, was a favourite Buddhist work of merit which the British continued, as also they did the provision of shade-trees along a road. Just short of milepost 6 where the road makes its second hairpin bend, the steepest section of the climb begins. Pause here awhile and gaze down into the luxuriant valley below. No view in the island creates a better sense of its profound fertility.
Plantations of rubber, slopes of tea, terraced paddy, thickets of wild flowers and foliage . . . tumble down the steep sides to the lush green fields and groves a thousand feet and more below. Here and there amidst the distant vagueness of the coconut topes may be seen those fantastic botanical phenomena, tali pot palms in bloom-for the palm lives and dies to produce this one splendour. On guard over the loveliness stands a ring of mountains: Bible Rock (Coffin Rock, the Dutch called it) to the left ; Lion Rock, Ship Rock (Sinhala: nav-gala from a resemblance traced to a ship's stern) in the far centre, Utuwankanda and beetling Alagalla to the right. Behind you towers Belungala.
Just above the hairpin bend the road passes through a short tunnel cut through a solid spur of stone. A local tradition had it that the Kandyan kingdom should never fall but to an enemy that could pierce the living rock that protected it. The British, after Kandy had yielded to them in 1815, were at pains to fulfil the prophecy. Beyond the tunnel the road rises swiftly to the summit where, on the right, the tall Dawson column rears against the sky.
You then pass through the town of Kadugannawa and there is little of interest till you reach the fruit stalls near the Peradeniya bridge, which takes you across the Mahaveli River, the lsland's longest. You pass the Royal Botanical Gardens on the left, the beautifully laid out University of Sri Lanka Campus on the right and roll into Kandy, the hill capital.
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CHAPTER 5
The high country
"The natural scenery that I see around me is probably unsurpassed on the face of the earth.’-Mahathma Gandhi
THE exhilaration of the journey to Kandy, capital of the High Country, is but the hors-d'oeuvre before the banquet.
It is difficult to pinpoint Kandy's beauty in the context of the overall loveliness that is Lanka but Sir William Gregory, Governor of the Island from 1872 to 1877, resolved the dilemma by neatly observing that "Kandy is the loveliest town in the loveliest island in the world.' V
There is an aroma of history in the air in Kandy, although the city is not as steeped in antiquity as the cities of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa. Kandy became a capital only in the fourteenth century and that, in a country with a recorded history that goes back to the sixth century before Christ, is pretty modern.
Kandy was the cockpit of Lanka in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. It was captured thrice by the Portuguese, who ruled the maritime areas of the island from 505 to 656, and once by the Dutch, who replaced the Portuguese and held sway from 1656 to 1796. On every occasion the foreign occupation of Kandy was brief. Remnants of the Portuguese forays can be seen, however, in the elements of European architecture in the palace of
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the Kandyan king. These are attributed to the employment of Portuguese prisoners-of-war. Kandy finally succumbed to the British in 85.
To the Buddhists of Lanka and to the people generally, Kandy is the home of the Temple of the Tooth. The octagonal-shaped Dalada Maligawa, is a national palladium for it houses the Tooth Relic of the Buddha, an object of veneration to Buddhists all over the world. According to tradition the tooth was rescued from the flames at the cremation of Gautama Buddha at Kusinara in India in 543 BC. It was brought to the island in the fourth century A.D.
Every morning drummers at the Temple of the Tooth beat a tattoo to signify a stage in a ritual that has been followed from time immemorial. As the drums reverberate streams of pilgrims, mostly clad in white, flow into the temple. Even to those unacquainted with the rituals the scene that presents itself is one of colour and fragrance. The devotees bring pink lotus blossoms and white frangipanni while the perfume of joss sticks fills the air. The Tooth Relic reposes in a container or casket known as a Karanduwa which is placed on a silver table. The relic is not on view except on special occasions. The casket is borne on an elephant during the annual pageant known as the Kandy Esala Perahera conducted in the lunar month of Esala, according to the Buddhist calendar (usually late July or early August).
The history of the perahera goes back to the second century A.D. when King Gajabahu won a famous victory against his South Indian foes, taking the battle into their homeland. A victory parade was ordered and place of honour given to the Island's deities Natha, Vishnu and Kataragama. The king also introduced the cult of Pattini, a Hindu goddess, who together with the other three makes up the island's four guardian deities. All of them have devales (shrines) in their honour within the town of Kandy. The emphasis which Gajabahu gave to religion was preserved ty his successors and over the centuries the Kandy Perahera has become one of national and religious significance. Today, it enjoys worldwide. fame as one of the greatest of pageants.
Down the ages men, have described the perahera but only those who have seen it realise that it is an experience which words fail to convey. There are elephants majestic in appearance and caparisoned with cloths of gold and trappings which make them look like gigantic jewels on the move. There are richlydressed dancers who seem to defy the laws of motion. There are drummers whose resonant throbbing rises above the tinkling feet of the dancers, the sounds of conch shells and the crashing
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of brass cymbals. There are Nilames (custodians) of the devales attired in glorious garb like those worn by their ancestors. There is the fragrance of flowers and joss sticks. It is a gorgeous spectacle, which as it moves along the streets makes the crowds packed to capacity gasp, some in wonderment and others in awe. The devout raise their voices in invocation and homage.
The Lake in the heart of Kandy town makes the old-world capital picturesque. But the lake is of recent origin. It was embellished by the last king of Kandy, Sri Wickrama Rajasinha in 1807, just ht years before the Kingdom of Kandy was ceded to the British.
There can be no more rewarding experience while in Kandy than to take a leisurely walk round the lake. The worldly-wise kings of Kandy are said to have used the island on the lake as a pleasure garden and a barge took them to and fro. The phlegmatic and practical British used it as a storehouse for ammunition. Today's tourist can skim the lake in motor boats. There is reputed to be treasure at the bottom of the lake but tourists and residents alike are warned against diving in. In the last century Lieut. James Meaden found considerable treasure when digging the foundation for a house near the lake. The story evidently reached Governor Barnes who got down a diving bell from England. Unfortunately (is there a hoodoo on treasure-seekers?) the diving bell fell into a paddy, field on the journey to Kandy. Later Barnes was told that the diving bell would not have been able to Penetrate the mud at the bottom of the lake which is at places fifteen feet deep.
The Audience Hall of the kings of Kandy with its richly-carved columns of teak and halmilla was the scene of a convention of Kandyan chiefs who ceded Kandy to the British in 85.
Work on this building began in 1784 during the reign of King Rajadhi Rajasinha but could not be completed before the British came into possession of Kandy. It is a spacious hall with wooden pillars rising from a stereobate of stone and the pillars are capped by carved wooden brackets. The pillars and beams are adorned by a variety of carvings. The roof has a steep gradient and is clad with flat tiles. This is the only building of its type of the Kandy period. It was used for ceremonial sittings of the Supreme Court of the Island when it held sessions in the hill capital.
The Museum in Kandy where the glories of the past can be viewed at leisure was once part of a vast complex of buildings. The motifs of the Sun, moon and stars on the walls are all symbols of royal descent. The hansa or swan is a symbol of royal spiritual knowledge and discernment above those of lesser mortals.
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Visitors to Kandy will be struck by the strong Dravidian and Hindu influences. These are due to the fact that some of the last kings of Kandy were Tamils and Hindus. Whether the Kandyan kings were Sinhalese and Buddhist, or Tamil and Hindu, a spirit of tolerance prevailed with both religions enjoying the bounty of the kings. In fact, when the Dutch persecuted the Roman Catholics in the maritime areas of the island it was to the Kandyan Kingdom that they fled for sanctuary and built their churches such as the historic shrine at Wahacotte.
Watching elephants fight used to be a pastime of the Kandyan kings. Today, watching elephants bathe as they squirt each other with gigantic jets of water is one of the favourite recreations of both Kandyans and visitors. The best place to watch elephants bathe is at Katugastota, about two miles north of Kandy.
One of the most rewarding things to do while in Kandy is to go shopping for handicrafts. Kandy and silverware are almost synonymous. The intricately hand-engraved Kandyan silverware is both decorative as well as of utility value. Trays, vases and mugs are the commonest of the objects made for day-to-day use while Kandyan jewellery comes in bewildering variety. Apart from Kandyan silverware the visitor finds himself confronted with dazzling brassware, lacquered goods, handloom textiles, Dumbara hemp mats and other objects of art.
Listed here are places of historical or scenic interest around Kandy and in the High Country.
Udawatta-kele : in Kandy, the visitor who has not lost by disuse the use of his feet is more-than-ordinarily well placed: paths and shortcuts are open to him that save miles of motoring and offer many unexpected and intimate excursions he would otherwise miss. One of the choicest of the latter is to wander at leisure-most of the roads are, however, motorable if that be the only locomotion of which he is capable-through the fantastically verdant and bird-haunted woodland that comprises the Udawattakele Sanctuary.
Beginning at St. Paul's Church, passing behind The Pavilion, and following clockwise along Lady Horton's Walk (or Drive), Lady Gordon's, then back into Lady Horton's and thence into Lady McCarthy's-Lover's Walk is a traverse shortcut which is also rewarding-the circuit is a little under three miles (of very pleasant shady going). There are a few outstanding vistas: that over the wonderful Vale of Dumbara with its long reach of the Mahaveli River and Hunnasgiriya Peak against the further horizon (at the north-eastern extremity of Lady Horton's): that at Lady
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Horton's south-eastern corner, before the steep descent begins, over the Lake and much of the town: that from the end of Gregory's Path; and from the old Eastern Redoubt of early British times are the pick of them.
But road names change when politics do; no accurate map is easily available; and a local guide is a necessity. In any case the whole of the Sanctuary is a highly sequestered area and it is circumspect not to wander in it alone or too expensively burdened.
Bodhimalu Vihara: The vihara is nearly 100 years old. Paintings and three Buddha images of the same age are found there. On the walls of the vihara are drawn the 24 benedictions. On the ceiling are lotus and foliage motifs and the Mara Yuddha is depicted. There is a Narilata carving on the lintel over the main door. Four miles on Peradeniya-Murutalawa road.
Davulagala Veleambalama : This is a small resting-place on a flat rock outcrop in the middle of a field close to the Embekke Devale. The cross-beam of the gable is carved and the roof is clad with flat tiles.
Degaldoruwa : This cave temple is situated about I miles north-east of the Lewella ferry and was instituted by King Kirtisiri Rajasinha (1747-1780 A.D.) of Kandy. In the cave are a large recumbent and sedent Buddha statues. On the inside and front walls of the cave are paintings of the Jataka (Birth) stories. These paintings, were done by Silvatenne Unnanse, a famous painter of the time and recently restored.
Dodanwela Devale: King Rajasinhall (1634-1687) who defeated the Portuguese in battle near Dodanwela Devale offered his sword and crown to this devale where there is an ancient Na tree avenue. To the site, turn off at Alakolange on the KandyColombo road and proceed about 2 miles on Murutalawa road.
Embekke Devale: To reach the village of Embekke, proceed on the Kandy-Gampola road, turn right at Peradeniya junction and proceed 4 miles on the Davulagala road. The pillars in the digge of the devale and other architectural members are excquisitely carved. Of all the wooden structures of the Kandy period this is the most attractive. The upper storey of the sanctum is a false one. The timber of the roof is of massive proportions.
Gadaladeniya : This shrine built by the Ven. Seelavansa Dharma-Kirti, the Sangharaja during the reign of Bhuvanekabahu IV (1341-135 A.D.) is about a mile from the junction at the 65th mile. on the Kadugannawa-Kandy road. On the rock outcrop on which
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the temple stands is an inscription. Parakramabahu VI effected repairs to this building. The structure is made of stone except the sikhara at the top, which is built of brick. The sikhara rising over the sanctum begins in octagonal shape but has been given the appearance of a dagaba. The vestibule and the porch have flat roofs. An image house is in the sanctum of the main shrine and a devale has been incorporated in the vestibule in a northward extension. On the stereobate at the entrance are figures of musicians and dancers and at the foot of the steps at the entrance to the main shrine is a moonstone and two Gajasinha balustrades.
Galmaduwa Vihara : There is an ancient structure known as the Gedige about one mile on the Kalapura road from the Nattarampota junction on the Kandy-Kundasale road. Special features not met with in other buildings of the Kandy period are found in this building. Above the dome in the central part of this structure is a vimana consisting of seven storeys progressively diminishing in size and around this is a rectangular stone wall with arches on it. While the vimana shows features of Tanjore architecture, the arches of the circumscribing wall display features of western architecture. Bricks with Brahmi characters were recovered from the site. There would have been a very ancient dagaba on this site before the Gaimaduwa Vihara was built in the Kandy period.
Hindagala Vihara : The vihara is near the 6th mile on the Peradeniya-Galaha road. Here on a crag under a boulder is a cave temple of the late Kandy period and within is a large reclining statue of the Buddha. At one end of the cave is a dagaba. On the outside and inside of the wall are paintings of the late Kandy period. On the cave roof below the drip-ledge are paintings for which the base has been prepared by spreading time plaster on the rock. These may be among the earliest paintings in the Island. The older paintings at Hindagala may belong to the Sigiriya period as the colours and the style of drawing are similar.
King's Palace, Kandy: The palace building of Sri Wickrama Rajasinha near the Temple of the Tooth at Kandy is a good example of a king's palace of the Kandy period. During the British administration the building was used as the residence of the chief government official of the district. Originally, on the walls of the main part of the building were stucco figures of chowribearing women nearly life size, of lions and geese and terracotta figures of lions and geese. These beautiful figures had been covered by successive layers of lime-wash applied during the British administration. The layers of time-wash have been removed and
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some of the figures have been restored. The roof of this building, now the Archaeological Museum, is in the Dutch style.
Lankatilaka Vihara : The vihara can be approached by the Davulagala road, which turns right from near the 65th mile on the Kadugannawa-Kandy road. It is about 3 miles from the turn off. On the rock outcrop on which this shrine is built is an inscription of Bhuvanekabahu IV (34||-||35|| A.D.) and a Tamil inscription of Vikremabahu III (1357-1374 A.D.). Apart from the stereobate the east of the structure is built of brick. The vihara had three storeys earlier. On either side of each entrance on the outer wall there are 6 stone elephant figures. In the image house are paintings of the Kandy period.
Madanvela Purana Vihara (Hanguranketa) : The bronzeseated Buddha statue under the makara thorana (archway) found at this temple is an important work of art. There are paintings in the two-storeyed building at this vihara but they are not older than 25 years.
Maliga Vihara, Daladagama : At this site is a cave temple of the Kandy period and inside it are Buddha images, statues of gods and paintings which belong to the same era. Near the vihara is a pillar inscription of the Polonnaruwa period. The sacred Tooth Relic of the Buddha was kept at this temple for a short time. To the site, turn to the south at Hunnasgiriya on the Teldeniya-Mahiyangana road and proceed about 4 miles on Medagammedda footpath.
Medagammedda Wayside Rest (Ambalama) and BoTree: Turn to the south at Hunnasgiriya junction on the Teldeniya-Mahiyangana road and proceed about 3 miles on Medagammedda footpath. Here is a small ambalama (wayside rest) on four wooden pillars and on each of the pillars is a pekada bracket. Opposite the ambalama is an ancient Bo-tree and near the tree a 5 ft. Stone pillar.
Medawala Vihara : At Medawala is an ancient vihara where a three-storeyed image house was built by a king who reigned at Dedigama. When this building fell into disrepair, the present temple on pillars was built by King Kirti Sri Rajasinha. The structure is built on short stone pillars. The pillars support a plank floor on which is the image house which has a 3-ft. ambulatory all round it. The image house has wattle and daub walls and a carved wooden door frame. On either side of the door are two janitor figures and inside is an image of the Buddha seated under a makara thorana. The wooden thorana is plastered over and painted. On the walls are depicted figures of gods, the Vessantara
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and the Ummaga Jataka (birth) stories. The moonstone, the stone steps and the Gajasinhabalustrades placed at a door giving access to the new image house at the premises should belong to the 4th century or early 15th century.
Natha Devale, Vegiriya: This devale was constructed by a sub-king named Parakramabahu in the reign of Bhuvanekabahu IV (1341-135|| A.D.) and among the sculptures here is a stone door. Beautiful figures of god Natha and goddess Tara are found in the devale; also inscriptions. Turn to the west at the 10th mile on the Kandy-Gampola road and proceed about 2 miles on the Welamboda road to get to the site.
Niyamgampaya : The viharage is built on an ancient stereobate made of dressed stones. The present superstructure is new. The stereobate has sculptured figures resembling those of the ornamental staircase at Yapahuwa. On the front and on the door frame are carvings of palapeti and creeper designs. This vihara is named in the Nampota. The site is 2 miles to the south of Gampola town on the Gampola-Nawalapitiya road.
Palkumbura Vihara : Close to the Heendeniya junction on the Katugastota-Galagedera road, this stone-constructed vihara has been built in Dravidian style and has a dagaba-shaped sikhara. A document at this temple claims it to be a structure of the reign of King Senerat (1604-1634 A.D.) of Kandy. In the long hall of the vihara are wood carvings.
Pattini Devale, Yalegoda : At this devale, which is about a mile south of Peradeniya on the Peradeniya-Gampola road, foliage patterns are drawn on the frame of the door leading from the antechamber to the sanctum. Similar drawings are found on the wooden box where the paraphernalia of the goddess are deposited.
Pitiye Devale, Dambarawa : Tradition ascribes the founding of the devale dedicated to the Pitiye deviyo (god) at Dambarawa, miles south of the Government Farm, Kundasale, to King Narendrasinha. An ornate old door frame has been incorporated in the new devale building. In the premises are three beautiful moonstones of the Kandy period and the site is encircled by a rubble prakara (parapet) of which much is yet preserved.
Purana Vihara, Hipitiya: About half a mile to the south of Panwila on the Wattegama-Madul kelle road is sited this small viharage about 100 years old and in it is a sedent figure of the Buddha under a makara thorana. On either side are two standing images and the images of the chief disciples. The 24
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benedictions are painted on the walls and on the ceiling are Buddha figures, dagaba and floral patterns.
Rajamaha Vihara, Uda Aludeniya : In the image house of this vihara is a delicately-carved wooden door frame and on the flat rock surface near the viharage is an inscription of the Kandy period. The site is about a mile from the Welligalla junction on the Peradeniya-Gampola road.
Rajamaha Vihara, Danture : The temple-on-pillars at Danture has an expansive ground floor and on four pillars at the centre of the hall are sculptures of musicians and dancers. On the upper floor is the image house in which is a seated Buddha statue under a makara thorana. On either side are two standing statues. Ancient paintings are found on the wooden ceiling and on the walls. To the site, turn off to the north at Alakolange junction on the Kadugannawa-Kandy road and proceed 2 miles on Menikdiwela road.
Sacred Area of Hanguranketa: The Sacred Area is situated in the middle of Hanguranketa town. There is a Vishnu devale and a Pattini devale-built in the Kandy period. At the base of the Vishnu devale is a frieze of sculptured stickdancers. On the walls of the Pattini devale are sculptures depicting subjects such as chowri-bearers, an elephant with mounted mahout and stick-dancers. There are also a monks' residence and two vihara mandiras built in 1830 with paintings on the walls. There are four image houses at the four ends of the larger of the mandiras and at its centre a vatadage. One of the door frames is of stone with delicate carvings. The frieze of women carved in stone, and the ola leaf library are the main attractions. v
Suriyagoda Rajamaha Vihara : This temple is situated about 1 miles on the Dodanwela road which branches north from the Kiribathkumbura junction on the Kandy-Kadugannawa road. This was the original temple of the Venerable Welivita Saranan kara, Sangharaja and the first Mahanayake Thero of the Malwatte Vihara of the Siam Nikaya sect. In the premises are a temple on pillars and an open sabbath hall. In the latter are carved wooden pillars capped with carved brackets. The paintings and images inside the temple-on-pillars have been restored. On the exterior faces of its walls are ancient paintings. Opposite the temple is an ancient Bo-tree.
Udawela Cave Temple: There is a recumbent Buddha statue and several other standing statues in a Kandy period temple about 4 miles on Talagune road which is of the Teldeniya-Mahiyan
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gana road. The paintings in the cave have been re-done, bu the ancient paintings can, however, still be seen.
Vevagama Bambaragala : This vihara situated in the village of Vevagama at Teldeniya on a mountain crag, is a large cave temple of the Kandy period. Inside it are a large recumbent Buddha statue, a sedent statue and two other small statues. There are paintings on the plastered cave walls. Outside the cave temple is a small contemporary dagaba.
Wayside Rest, Davulagala : This ancient ambalama has been built on four well-fashioned pillars, capped with carved brackets and the roof clad with flat tiles. The floor is paved with slabs of stone. The site is 3 miles south-west of Peradeniya on the Peradeniya-Davulagala road.
Wayside Rest, Yakgahapitiya: The structure has 4 large and 2 small pillars and on some of them are carvings of animals, and flower motifs. Some of the beams are also carved. To the site, turn to the north at Nattaranpota junction on Kandy-Kundasale road and proceed about 5 miles on Sirimalwatte road.
The ROYAL BOTANCAL. GARDENS are situated within a loop made by the Mahaveli River which forms a peninsula of about a mile in length with a minimum breadth of 600 yards. The gardens cover about 50 acres and the elevation above sea level is
550 feet.
What is now the Gardens was once, during the reign of King Kirti Sri Rajasinha (747-80), a royal residence and park.
Here, in a situation ideal from whatever point of view it is regarded, is a marvellous collection of specimens of the flora of the whole tropical world, as well as a great herbarium and museum of plants of Sri Lanka.
The entrance is on the Colombo road, about 4 miles from Kandy and half a mile from the Peradeniya railway station.
The best times to see the Gardens are between 8 a.m. and 0 a.m. and 4 p.m. and 6 p.m. Although the greatest enjoyment in viewing the plants would be that of the pedestrian, the roads through which driving is permissible afford good opportunities for those who like to take their pleasure lazily. The botanist will find the principal plants and trees enumerated.
At the main entrance to the Gardens, to the west, are a striking row of "Queen of Flowering Trees (Amherstia nobilis)
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of Burma and Malacca, which produce pretty pink and yellow flowers the year round. On either side of the gate are two handsome specimens of the “ Flame Tree ” (Delonix regia) of Madagascar, introduced to Sri Lanka before 841, which when in full bloom bear immense sprays of scarlet flowers.
Turning to the left from the oval lawn opposite the entrance you enter Lake Drive where there is a specimen of the Cajeput-oil tree of Moluccas (Melaleuca minor) and behind it the famous "Upas" tree of Java (Antiaris toxicaria), also referred to as the Ordealpoison tree of Java, at one time supposed to exude poisonous fumes fatal to animal life. The sap of the bark contains a deadly poison called "Ipoh ' which was used for poisoning the tips of arrows and darts. Its allied form, the Sack Tree of Sri Lanka (Antiaris innoxia) is a little beyond.
Other interesting specimens along Lake Drive include the "Madara' (Cleistanthus collinus) a tree which is said to have the Property of protecting anyone carrying a piece of its wood against wild animals and snakes.
On the left of the Drive is a choice collection of Hibiscus varieties raised in the Gardens. At the end of this collection you turn left and come to the South Drive where there is a clump of Dendrocalamus giganteus, the Giant Bamboo of Burma which is the largest known bamboo-about 0 inches in diameter and 90 to 30 feet high. New shoots grow so rapidly that they reach their full height in two to three months.
The lake contains varieties of water lilies and bulrushes like the Olu (Nymphaea lotus), the water lily of Sri Lanka, the Papyrus of the Nile (Cyperus papyrus) and the Sri Lanka Bulrush (Typha javanica).
You pass through the avenue of Royal Palms planted in 1905, which is a graceful feature of the Gardens.
On the left of the drive is the Medicinal Herbs Garden where herbs used in ayurvedic (indigenous) medicine are planted. On one side is a plot of 22 types of grass used for lawns.
You move on to the Students' Garden which is systematically planted with herbs and shrubs of Sri Lanka and other tropical countries, arranged according to their genera. The drive ends in a wide oval loop and the upper bend of the loop passes a collection of Cycads on the left.
The Cycads family is one of the oldest types of flowering plants still existing. The main genera represented at the Gardens are
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Cycads, Zamia, Encephalartos and Diocon. Further up are different hemp plants and the Travellers' Palm (Ravenala madagascariensis) whose leaves are arranged in a fan-like shape.
in the distance can be seen the road bridge and in the foreground collections of different types of bamboo from Burma, Java, Japan and China. There are also screwpines from the Nicobar Islands.
The River Drive runs right round the Gardens along the bank of the river. Below the drive is a magnificent bamboo clump, Gigantochloa aspera while on the right is the rockery where many ornamental annuals and perennials are seen. The bank above the rockery is planted with coniferous trees.
As you turn into Jonville Drive, the view across the great lawn with the Gannoruwa hills in the distance is breathtaking. Beyond the lawn is the herbarium. The drive crosses Monument Road where you could see a male specimen of a Double Coconut or Cocode-mer (Lodoicea Sechellarum) about hundred years old which has flowered freely here since 1890. At the end of the portion of road to the right is a white dome-shaped structure built in 1855 in memory of Mr. George Gardner, the Brazilian traveller, who was superintendent of the Gardens from 1844 to 1849. The scientific era of the Gardens may be said to have begun with him.
As you proceed along the drive there are more specimens of the Double Coconut palm of the Seychelles forming an avenue. The Double Coconut is a remarkable palm in that it has separate male and female trees with large leaves. The large bilobed or trilobed fruits were known for centuries before the palm itself was discovered as the fruits were found floating in the Indian Ocean.
Only one leaf is produced each year so that a tree which is 100 feet high should be of a great age.
You cross Central Drive and enter Liana Drive with tall trees draped with fine climbers-the Bignonia unguis of Brazil which climbs with peculiar hooked tendrils, the "Dul" (Anodendron paniculalum) a giant, woody climber, the Securidaca volubilis of tropical South America and the Snake or "Chain' climber commonly known as Nagadarana.
The drive ends at a little circular pond where there are many varieties of water lilies and Vadakaha, the aromatic rhizomes of which are used by ayurvedic physicians in the treatment of bowel complaints and as a vermifuge.
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The cactus house where a choice collection of hardy tropical cacti, succulents and many other fascinating xerophytic plants are grown stands by the drive, to the right.
You proceed to the spice collection where the nutmeg grove, cinnamon, cloves, cardamoms, vanilla, pepper, bay, pimento and aromatic grasses are found.
Return to the small pond and take the path leading to the Octagon House in the floricultural section. The Octagon House or Conservatory contains a choice selection of rare and ornamental shade-loving plants. The footpath ahead leads to the Fernery, originally constructed in 1861.
Back now, along the path and to the Orchid House. Around the Orchid House is an orchid garden where hardy tropical orchids represented chiefly by the genera Denrobium, Epidendrum, Coelogyne, Renanthera, Arachnis, Vanda and their hybrids thrive in partial and open sunshine.
Within the Orchid House is a lovely display of tropical and semi-tropical orchids mostly of Phalaenopsis, Dendrobium and Vanda hybrids raised at the Gardens. Other genera include Catteleya, Coelogyne, Stanhopea, Oncidium, Aerides, Dendrochilum, Arachnanthe, Calanthe and Saccolabium. Of the endemic orchids, Naga-maru-ala or the Daffodil Orchid (psea speciosa), Vana Raja (Anaectochilus regalis) and Sanda Raja (Zeuxine regia ) are worthy of note.
Leaving the Orchid House on either side of the path are 'Sealing Wax Palms." Following the river drive, to the left is a view of the pergola and next to it a fine collection of colourful crotons. Adjoining this is the Old Fruit Plot with specimens of some of the rare tropical fruit plants.
Proceeding along the river drive you enter the Cabbage Palm Avenue, see the suspension bridge, view the winding river from the summer house and turn off to the Great Circle-an area of lawn about four acres in extent where trees planted by visiting celebrities flourish.
NUVVARA ELIYA, 48 miles from the Gardens, was first conceived as a health resort - a 'hill station' in British colonial jargon-about 1825. This explains its somewhat anachronistic, and even slightly alien character. After Nuwara Eliya was "discovered' by a British hunting party in 1819, Sir Samuel Baker, the well-known explorer, fell under its spell in 1846 and planning to make it his home, imported to Nuwara Eliya all the
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appointments of an English country town, including a bailiff, Hereford and Durham cows, and even a blacksmith and a forge.
Others were quick to appreciate Nuwara Eliya's ruggedly picturesque location and soft English-spring climate. In less than 50 years this new town became the first among the Island's hill resorts. Located in the heart of the tea country, the phenomenal rise in importance of this industry also helped to add to Nuwara
Eliya's growing reputation.
Both road and rail approaches to Nuwara Eliya are spectacularly beautiful; both routes hug narrow mountain passes to make the 6,000-foot climb in rather terrifying gradients. And in this case, it is as good to arrive as to journey.
The air is cold and intoxicatingly fresh, blowing clean and cold from the high cloud-crowned Pidurutalagala ranges scented with cypress and faintly mentholated, with wild mint and eucalyptus. Deep springy turf, frosted with daisies and pink thrift; hillsides deep in evergreens or golden with gorse. The post-office with its clock-spire is authentic English; so is the war memorial and the lovely old Anglican church. One might almost write an elegy among the mossed and lichened headstones and sombre yews. The houses are mostly in the style collectively called "Old English' - with gabled roofs, bow and dormer windows and occasionally even halftimber, in styles ranging from Georgian to Queen Anne. Each one comes complete with garden in the best English tradition, with immaculate lawns, box or privet hedges and herbaceous borders.
One doubts whether a more correct and precisely English institution than the Hill Club can ever be found-in England or outside. Old hunting prints, stuffed fish and Constance Spry flower arrangements adorn its dim interiors, gleaming with polished oak. Churchill stares down belligerently from the bar-room wall and Annigoni's first portrait of the Queen still hangs in their places of honour. No doubt many a toast is still drunk to Her Majesty by homesick English tea planters.
Englishmen must fish-or talk about fishing. So they painstakingly imported milt and hatched brown and rainbow trout and stocked the streams around Nuwara Eliya for licensed anglers complete in deerstalkers and Burberrys to catch them if they could. Nuwara Eliya still maintains its trout hatcheries carefully, as well as a fine 18-hole golf course which can surely claim to be one of the most scenic in the world.
Just outside the town are the truck gardens, pear orchards and some of Sri Lanka's best tea estates. Cauliflower, rhubarb and
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beds of strawberries, very improbable, when one remembers that Nuwara Eliya is less than seven degrees north of the Equator and just 50 miles away the crops are coconut, banana and pineapple. But then this is Sri Lanka the land of serendipity-of happy surprises.
Hakgala Gardens: These Gardens were established in 1860, originally as a cinchona plantation but later, under the curator William Nock, as a model garden in which experiments might especially be carried out in the acclimatization of temperate zone plants to the tropics. The Nocks looked after and beautified the Gardens for three generations (the last of them up to the 1940s) and the summer-house is a memorial to the second. From the summer house with its elevation of 5,400 feet is to be obtained one of the loveliest views in the Island: the entire Uva Basin spread below one, with the 9-pointed peak of Namunukula queening it over the far horizon.
More botanically-minded visitors will find plenty to interest them: the Fernery, for one, with its magnificent tree ferns; the Orchid House; a Camphorwood Tree and a true English Oak; and all the flowers of an English cottage garden for which Nuwara Eliya, only eight miles away, made itself so nostalgically famous. There is a charming pool in the shape of Sri Lanka, with ornamental carp in it.
There is probably no mountain more famous than Sri PadaAdam's Peak (7,362 ft.) for non-mountain reasons than this. It is sacred to three religions at least; to Buddhists the human-footshaped hollow on the pinnacle boulder marks one of the personal appearances of the Buddha; the Muslims believe that the depression marks Adam's expiation of his disobedience by standing there for an age, on one foot; to the Hindus, by whom the Peak has been venerated for millennia, its name is Sivan Adi Padham, for it is the Creative Dance of the god Siva that the "print' calls to remembrance. its Sri Lanka name-and sacredness-however antedates even Buddhism. The name is Samanala Kanda ; and Saman was a preBuddhist god, one of the four Guardian Deities of the Island. For this reason the clouds of yellow butterflies who annually appear and, to the eye of faith, seem to converge from every direction upon the holy mountain are called samanalayo.
For as long as man can conjure, the Peak has been an object not only of worship but of pilgrimage by kings and commoners. Those who go so far as to choose to climb the Peak rather than merely observe it-the pilgrim season is the calm bright months from January to April-have three traditional routes available to them: from Ratnapura (via Carney Estate) involving 10 miles on foot; from Kuruwita (joining the former route for the last three
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miles) 12 miles on foot, but probably the most attractive route of all; and from Hatton (via Maskeliya) about 4 miles on foot, though nearly all of it are steps.
The dawn view is incredible. Few mountain-tops create a comparable impression of isolation or yield so wide and unimpeded a view. Colombo is clearly visible, the very lights of Galle Face distinguishable; the light-houses south-westwise around the coast from Beruwala to Foul Point are all identifiable.
The sunrise produces the famous spectacle of the Shadow of the Peak. The north-east winds that blow in the pilgrim season have laid, some thousands of feet below it, a layer of misty cloud. Over this the sun casts the vast dark triangular shadow of the huge summit Pyramid. lts point lies, at first, upon the infinitely distant horizon, then, as the Sun waxes, races backward, foreshortening the shadow, until it is swallowed altogether in the rock of the peak itself. A less advertised phenomenon (because it usually occurs outside the pilgrim season) is also occasionally to be seen: the even more fantastic spectacle of the so-called "Spectre of the Brocken." When the cloud layer happens to be vertically rather than horizontally piled the intruder on the summit terrace occasionally sees before him an enormously magnified image of all upon it-including himself-often encircled by a halo of rainbow hues.
From this, the heart of the high country, no less than four of the Island's main rivers (the Mahaveli, the Kalu, the Kelani and the Walawe) spring from the watershed of which the Peak is as it were the spire.
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CHAPTER 6
Galle and Deiyange rata
THE Galle Road is a broad road and a brave road that plunges into the deep south. it then tapers gently as it moves eastwards into God's own country-Deiyange rata.
Leave Colombo southward, pass the turn to the famed National Zoological Gardens and move into suburban Dehiwala, six miles from the hub of the city.
The first narrow lane to the left, past the junction, leads to the Sri Subhadrarama Vihara. Its chief attractions are the Buddha statues with sapphire eyes, which seem to come alive in the glow of the pol the—coconut oil-lamps.
A short distance away to the right is the Mount Lavinia bay, famous for its hotel, sea-bathing and beach. The Mount Lavinia Hyatt occupies palatial buildings: originally a rest-house and once the splendid suburban residence of a British Governor.
Outrigger canoes drawn up on the broad, curving beach form a striking backdrop to this safe-and certainly best known-of the many sea-bathing spots that dot the Island's coast.
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By the roads leading to the hotel and bay are many shops selling local handicrafts brightly-coloured batiks and gems. Young coco nuts to refresh you and a variety of tropical fruit are sold on the beach on holidays and week-ends.
Two miles from the turn-off to the bay, on the left, is the Ratmalana Airport-till recently the Island's largest. A number of industrial units have sprung up around it and this area is now a bustling industrial town.
A short distance away, again to the left, is a road that leads to the lake at Bolgoda. Follow the Ceylon Motor Yacht Club signboards which lead you to the very picturesque club-house by the lake. On week-ends, enthusiasts in roaring speedboats whip up the placid waters of the lake, whilst yachts, with brightly-coloured sails, skim silently by. Water-skiing is yet another lake sport. Here beginners can learn its finer points.
Return to Galle Road and pass through Moratuwa, home of the carpentry industry in Sri Lanka. If you are an angler make a short detour. The road that goes straight on, before the bridge is entered, takes you to the estuary of the Bolgoda Lake-an angler's paradise.
At the approach to Panadura is a beautiful gilt image of the Buddha, as good an example of contemporary statuary as any. Panadura is well known for its fresh fish, prawns and equally delectable coconut toddy. The toddy industry extends from this point through most of the maritime district you will traverse on you way south to Galle. /
About 4 miles from Panadura, on the road to Horana, is the Veeragaha Temple, built in the late 19th century. On its ceiling are painted the signs of the Zodiac, the planets, their "houses' and the 27 constellations. Its walls are adorned with brightlycoloured murals.
The sudden appearance of little roadside stalls selling coir rugs, reed mats and basketware, means that you are on the threshold of Kalutara. Now better known for its luscious mangosteens and fancy reed basketware, in days gone by it was famous the world over for its spices. So well known in fact that its spices were bartered for slabs of granite to build its fortifications.
Cross the impressive double-span bridge over the broad, brown Kalu Ganga into a sprawling, crowded town. As you leave the bridge on your right is a Buddhist shrine and under its Bo-tree
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is a pin-kate-a till into which votive offerings are made to ensure a safe journey.
The Spits of sand south of the broad mouth of the Kalu Ganga are delightful picnic spots-a convenient distance away from Colombo.
Kalutara, surrounded by vast rubber estates, is the heart of the Island's rubber trade. The road from here to RatnapuraCity of Gems--passes through mile-long avenues of rubber trees. Sun dappled, it is the gem route of the rich Muslim gem traders of China Fort.
In the early lith century a South Indian Prince, Vikramapandya, who had come to the Ruhuna district of the Island for fear of the Cholas who were then in occupation of the Island's Rajarata, made Kalutara the seat of his government of the south-western part of the country. His choice of Kalutara from which to rule over Ruhuna, was dictated by personal safety. However, a year later he was slain by a North Indian invader, who afterwards ruled over Ruhuna for four years.
About 200 years later, in the reign of the scholar king Parakramabahu II (circa 1236) the maritime stretch between Kalutara and Bentota was planted with coconut on the orders of the king. The domestic consumption of coconut had increased with Successive migrations of people from the Rajarata to the southwestern and southern regions. Besides, there was external trade in CoCon ut.
Kalutara fell to the Dutch in 1655. They built a fort, extended its ramparts and made it a trading station. In 1797 the fort was ceded to the British.
Only traces of the fort remain today. Instead, an imposing stupa in concrete atop the hillock overlooking the Kalu Ganga greets the visitors to the town.
Leave the town and detour to the left. Not far away is the abandoned World War II airstrip, at Katukurunda, now a motor racing circuit. Nineteen miles beyond it is the world famous Rubber Research Institute at Agalawatte, well worth visiting.
A little past the 31st mile, the road veers sharply towards the sea and crosses the rail tracks at Paiyagala South. The view of the sea, so suddenly offered, will take your breath away. The foaming rollers sweeping in, in paralleled precision, are excellent for Surfing O.
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Look up and see a network of ropes, tight ropes on which tappers walk from tree to tree tapping nectar from pregnant coconut flowers-toddy. This is toddy country-watch tappers shin nimbly up the trees; watch them collect nectar from little clay pots and cross from crown to crown, collecting. See toddy-barrels nudged expertly along the road to trestled collecting points. Smell it, even sip it, you will never have it so good as around here.
The road skirts the coast revealing a panorama of beach and sea as it passes under a canopy of coconut palms until Beruwala is reached. Once called Barberyn, its bay was a safe anchorage for the first Moorish settlers in the Island (circa 1024).
On the further promontory is the very old mosque of Kechimalai with delicate, white minarets where an annual feast is held to break the fast of Nombu (Ramazan). Take the road to the right that passes along the edge of the bay, pass the fishing harbour and drive through narrow streets till the beach unfolds itself once again. This is a delightful bathing spot; before you is the lush, green Barberyn island on which the lighthouse stands.
Back to the fork at the main road and another detour to the left. China Fort, where the wealthy Muslim gem merchants have built mansions around a large, modern and striking mosque.
At the 37th mile the road passes over the narrow Kaluwamodera Ganga and wends its way to Alutgama, well known for its boisterous fish market. Further on a longer bridge is crossed, this time over the broad Bentota River-Bentara Ganga-and the road dips right into the Bentota tourist resort.
Bentota: AS IT USED TO BE . . . a place to rest on the way to worship at the Galapatha temple, built by a minister of Parakramabahu I (AD i 153—186). A place of legend . . . dike the old story which says that Galapatha temple is linked, by a maze of subterranean tunnels, with all the other temples in the area . . . all roads leading to Galapatha .
A PLACE OF HISTORY . . . Sri Lanka's first invaders, the Portuguese, built a fort manned by cannon on the bank of the Bentota river. Next to land in Sri Lanka from across the high seas were the Dutch, who let the fort fall into disuse but converted one of the large buildings, within, into a rest-house for officers en route to Gale from Colombo. Then came the British, who discovered the rest-house and found it a salubrious place in which to spend holidays with friends and family.
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Bentota, with the rest-house as its focal point, thus became a place of escape . . . a place in which to mark time, to pause, to rest, to holiday. There was a quality of peace in the atmosphere and the very air was a palliative. Bentota has been a resting place for so many years that the very sun, sea and sand seem blessed.
Recently, the Tourist Board realised that Bentota's natural advantages should, by right, be made available to a greater number of people. That realisation was the beginning of a very ambitious
venture . . . a 100-acre tourist complex. Styled the Bentota National Holiday Resort, the complex comprises modern hotels, a shopping centre, market-place, post-office, theatre . . . cultural
exhibitions, displays of handicraft and folk dancing. It may quite truthfully be said that a stay at the Bentota tourist complex can never be boring.
AS IT IS NOW . . . the complex itself has been designed to blend with nature. Bentota Beach Hotel, for instance, built on the site of the old Portuguese Fort, is modelled after the star forts. it blends perfectly with its surroundings. Excitement is a regular sensation in the hotel for there are so many things rare and wonderful to see . . . the exotic, flaunting beauty of the batik ceiling, the huge bird sculpture in the dining room (a paean in copper), the charming meda midula (a feature of most ancient Sinhalese homes) and the matchless swimming pool, which follows the curves of natural rock and is extraordinarily beautiful.
Other hotels in the complex are the Lihiniya Surf (pleasingly designed for Sun and sea worshippers . . . the ground-floor rooms, for instance, open directly on to the beach); and the Serendib Hotel, which has a sculptured simplicity and a personality as happy as its name. An added attraction here is an aviary of tropical birds.
ABOUT SHOPPING... the Arcade is bewilderingly stocked with exotica of all kinds. Here, you shop in comfort for beautiful things. Outside in the market-place, however, the air is fiercely competitive and you can enjoy the eternal, good-natured eastern bargaining system and leave the poorer for your money and the richer for masks, drums, tortoise-shell ware and exquisite handmade lace.
WHAT YOU CAN DO . . . Bentota, climate-wise, is ideal for people fleeing the unfriendliness of winter or looking for a new and exciting experience. October to April are the best months, for the sea is calm and blue, mile after shimmering mile, and cool north eastern breezes blow down the coastline. The sky is blue, too . . . unbelievable, picture-book blue. This is a marvellous season for Swimming, surfing, snorkelling, diving . . . water-skiing and deep
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sea fishing from an outrigger canoe. For the sun people even the sun is kind . . . hot and loving, it pours down on pale skins and gives them its colour . . . the rich gold of health. In the evenings, the sunsets are new miracles, each one of them seems more beautiful than the last. A stay at Bentota is worth it, for the Sunsets alone.
The Bentota river is the source of many unexpected pleasures. A leisurely trip up-river, early in the morning when the mist lies over the surface or a bright, moon-lit night, is a particularly beautiful experience which carries with it the possibility of seeing a real, live crocodile skulking in the mangroves. The river has infinite variety for the eye . . . the scenery changes from clumps of mangrove to screwpine and the upper reaches open to wide vistas, soothing in their stillness.
A few miles drive inland will take you to the fringe of the Sinharaja . . . primeval forest, dense, dark, secret, lush and wet. This thick jungle is all that remains of the natural vegetation of the island's south-west wet zone.
ABOUT FOOD . . . Being, literally, almost part of the beach, Bentota's cuisine is essentially sea-oriented. Sea-fresh shellfish, crabs, prawns, lobsters, fresh fish and even oysters . . . international luxuries which, at Bentota are as natural and as plentiful as the sun and the sea. If, however, you wish to sample local foods or, perhaps, stay with what you are used to at home, at Bentota, you can.
THE CLIMATE . . . Not much variation here . . . an average maximum of 86.7°F and an average minimum of 75.5°F. March and April are the hottest months, with average daily temperatures of 86°F. There are, perhaps, only 70 or 80 days of rain . . . approximately 25, inches during April-June and 3 to 15 inches in the period October-December. The entire area has an annual rainfall of about 95 inches, and the humidity is, on average, 76 by day and 89 by night.
Six miles from the hotel complex is Brief, a private garden open to visitors: This garden belongs to Bevis Bawa. His friend, Robin Maugham, has described it and one cannot better his eulogy, which is quoted here:
and 'Brief is a Paradise: it is a Shangri-la, a glimpse of Nirvana-call it what you will after you have been to See it . . .
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"The house has become filed with furniture-old and new, indigenous and exotic all blending together-until it has become one of the loveliest houses in the East, adorned with paintings and antiques which Bevis has found during his wanderings round the world . . .
"The harmony of the garden at 'Brief' is unexpected because, as Bevis explains it, it consists of a collection of several Small gardens-thought out by him in various moods and at various times during its growth over the last forty years. The result is a climax of loveliness, a proclamation that nature can triumph over the hideous inventions of mankind.
" in the leafy trees and shrubs the wild birds call and sing. Flowers glitter in the sunshine. Gracefully-shaped vistas reach out towards the horizon. Tranquility pervades the green terraces. Peace covers the house with a soft cloak. Peace falls over the lawns like a blessing. Peace is everywhere. For this place is a Paradise, made by the sensibility of one man, created by his patience and his love."
The road swings once again towards the sea near the 40th mile and Snuggles along the coast as it runs past Induruwa to Kosgoda. Here unhappily it moves inland and save for occasional glimpses. of the vivid coast, is uninteresting.
The Madu Ganga is now on your left a quarter mile inland. This broad expanse of water which looks more like a lake than a river, is dotted with innumerable islands. Maduwa, the largest, is blessed with a temple. This broad river tapers abruptly to a narrow outlet into the sea, which you cross as you leave Balapitiya.
About a mile from the turn to the Balapitiya railway station is the old Purana Subhadrarama at Mohottiwatte. Known, in the village, as Uparatana Nayaka Pansala its walls are decorated with the most interesting and unusual designs of somanas-dress. Another painting found here is that of Queen Victoria and an entourage of princesses.
A little past the 52nd mile, to your left, is the Sangharaja Pirivena and temple. Builton a rocky mound its frescoes are of particular interest depicting "hell and heaven'. Many Jataka stories are related in the brightly painted murals on its walls.
On to Ambalangoda which is a little over 53 miles from Colombo. The fork to the right takes you to the old-world resthouse with its rock bathing pool jutting out into the sea. Fishing
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boats, that harbour on the beach by the rest-house, make a pretty picture and bring fresh fish for an excellent stringhopper and curry breakfast served here.
Hard by the rest-house is the home of Ariyapala Gurunanse, the renowned mask-carver. Here, in his primitive workshop, are carved from kaduru wood some of the finest traditional devil masks of Sri Lanka.
Ambalangoda is also well known for its puppet players and mask dancers. The puppets are a popular draw at festivals; the mask dancers are the antagonists of devils in the more serious business of exorcism.
As you leave the town, the first turn left towards the railway station, leads you to the Ambalangoda Maha Vihara with its large thorana (archway). Also called Sunandaramaya, it was one of the earliest temples to be built on the south-west coast. On the inside of the outer wall of the shrine room are murals depicting Jataka stories; also an absolutely delightful and rare mural of a troupe of dancing girls.
The paintings on the outer wall are of an earlier period and are well preserved.
On the left as you leave Ambalangoda is the Madampe lake. Fringed with acres of paddy, cinnamon and coconut, it is too pretty for words to describe.
As you move south look out along the coast for straining fishermen seemingly at tug-of-war with the sea. They are the traditional ma del fishermen hauling in their huge purse-Seine nets. This certainly is worth watching. Observe the two teams of fishermen, about 75 yards apart, strain and chant as they pull in the ropes attached to the ends of the net. Out at sea is the large ma del boat on the prow of which stands the master of operations-gesticulating and screaming his commands to the fishermen on the shore.
The grand finale, the landing of the net, may take a lot of your time, yet is worth waiting for. Myriads of fish yet alive are stacked into baskets and carried away by the women folk. Greedy sea gulls dive in amidst bartering humans for an easy pick. Crows hover around, Scavenging. At the end of it all the sudden silence staggers you as nets, neatly folded, are carried away on the shoulders of tired fishermen.
This tableau of man harvesting the mighty ocean, climaxed by the spectacle of a long line of stooped fishermen linked by scalloped
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net-backdropped by blue sea, surf and sand-will remain etched for ever in your memory of this lovely island.
The Telwatte Vihara is less than a mile along the turn off to the left near the 58th mile. Also called Purana Totagama Raja Maha Vihara it was built in 1805. All the murals here are well preserved and the dragon arches-makara thoran-at the entrance to the shrine room are some of the most beautiful to be seen in Sri Lanka. In between the arches is a figure of Cupid with his "sugar cane' bow and five flower-tipped arrows. This unique sculpture is the only one of its kind in the lsland. The Wessantara Jataka is related
in the murals on the inside of the eastern and southern walls of this Vihara.
The panels near the ceiling have paintings of six "heavens'. Inside the shrine room are statues of the Buddha in the three main postures.
This vihara was a famous seat of learning as far back as the 5th century. The great savant and poet Sri Rahula Maha Thera lived here.
Now 60 miles away from Colombo, you cross the Hikkaduwa ganga. Drive past lines of smoking coral pits and enter Hikkaduwa-a tourist resort with a very modern rest-house and several beach hotels.
The main attraction here is, of course, the fabulous under-water coral gardens around the Hikkaduwa Rocky Islets Sanctuary. Tarry a while, put on mask and flippers or hire a glass-bottomed boat and explore this sanctuary for fish and living coral. Then-and only then-will you realise why it is now famous the world over.
Hikkaduwa ganga, a mile or so inland, is an interesting waterway to explore. Broad, it is more like a lake, similar to the Ratgama lake you next come to, off Dodanduwa. The pungent Smell of jadi-salted fish-assails you as you drive through the narrow streets of this town. Delicious jadi is not the only reason for Dodanduwa's fame. The murals in the temples nearby are works of art that must be seen.
Almost as you leave the town, to your left, is the Kumarakanda Rajamahavihara. Ornamenting its walls are splendid murals of the sacred footprint, Divaguha, Peraheras, lions and 24 benedictions. Also worth looking closely at are delicately depicted figures of gods and patterned foliage.
A half mile away, further on, is the delightfully named templeSailabimbaramaya. In the image house there are many exquisite
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murals relating stories of the birth and life of the Buddha. Here was opened for the first time in the Island, a school for the sons of Buddhist laymen and a pirivena for the Sangha.
Ratgama lake, east of the township, invites exploration. Dotted with several little islets, its possibilities are endless. One of these islets, Polgasduwa, is a peaceful little hermitage.
The road now gently curves eastwards as it follows the profile of the Island. Passing Boossa, with its once popular racecourse, and the Plywood Factory at Gintota, the Gin Ganga is crossed just short of the 69th mile. The view from this bridge is always interesting. Catamarans beached on the spit of dazzling sand; bullock carts being filled with river sand; rafts of bamboo that have been floated down from distant Baddegama; and the people bathing in the shade of the leaning coconut palms-fascinate.
A little further on is your first glimpse of the bastioned fort of Galle.
Galle, the romantic, old-world town and picturesque seaside resort, lies on the southern coast of Sri Lanka, 72 miles from Colombo. Galle owes its glory to its harbour. History suggests that Galle is the Tarshish of the Bible.
Because of the strategic position of the Galle harbour in relation to the sea routes, it was the Island's chief port of call from as early as the 14th century. Traders from several parts of the world called at Galle, their vessels laden with merchandise, and the city eventually became on emporium of foreign trade and the rendezvous of merchants of several countries who came seeking spices, or to sell or barter their commodities.
The popular belief is that the derivation of the name Galle is from the Sinhala gala, a rock.
In 1505 a Portuguese fleet of vessels under the command of Don Lourenco de Almeida, set out for the Maldives to intercept Moorish ships carrying spices, but owing to unfavourable weather were driven off their course and entered the harbour at dusk. They later named it Galle, because they heard the crowing of cocks at dusk-so tradition tells us. Hence the name 'Punto de Gale' (the Latin for chanticleer being 'gallus'). The British used a corrupted form-Point de Galle.
It is interesting to note that a cock is represented on the Dutch coat-of-arms as well as on the crest of the Galle Municipal Council.
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Although the Portuguese arrived in Galle in 1505 they did not make much use of it for nearly 75 years, except for establishing a franciscan chapel in 1543 and a small trading colony.
It was only in 1588, when to check the Portuguese territorial ambitions, King Rajasinha I of Sitawaka laid seige on the Portuguese in Colombo, that the latter withdrew along the south coast and fortified Galle. In 1589 the Portuguese built a fortalice of palm trees and mud, which they called Santa Cruz.
They later built a wall, three bastions and a fortalice to guard Galle harbour.
They were: San lago-(St. James) on the eastern end near the Bay; Conceycao-(Immaculate Conception) near the present clock tower; Santa Antonio-on the western end facing the sea.
At both ends of the wall were watch towers-quaritas-to prevent people wading around the ramparts as the moat was not deep. There was no gate, entrance being through a stockade over a drawbridge.
Portuguese customs, manners and dress were adopted, so were their language: Even today many a word originating from the Portuguese is found in the Sinhala vocabulary : viyole (violin); lensuva (handkerchief); janelaya (window); sapaththu (shoes); kalisam (trousers); kamise (shirt); almariya (almirah); oralosuwa (clock); paan (bread).
Names like Perera, Fernando are of Portuguese origin, likewise the suffix Singho, a corruption of the word Sinno-Senhor.
Catholicism was the form of Christianity followed by the Portuguese. Missionary activity began in 1543.
Unfortunately, little is known of Galle during the Portuguese period. Most of the records were burnt by Van Toll, Secretary to Gerrit de Meere, Governor of Colombo. Among them were records of the Land Tombo (register) introduced in 1607.
Very few Portuguese monuments are in existence, although some turned up in most unexpected places, as these were in most cases broken up by the Dutch and used to load their cannon. The ravages of time and the ruthless hands of vandals, too, are responsible for their disappearance.
The Dutch constructed the present 90-acre fort of Galle in 1663, which was considerably strengthened during the administration of the Dutch Governor Petrus Vuyst (1726-1729).
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The finest section of the fortification, that facing the "Esplanade' was known as the "Sea Bastion' originally built by the Portuguese as a single wall, fronted by a moat which extended from the sea to the harbour. It was later enlarged into a defence line by the Dutch. The bastion owing to its size was divided into three sections and named Star, Moon and Sun in 1667. After the British occupation-to accommodate present day necessitiesa gateway was cut through the massive wall over the site of the Portuguese "Port de Traiso" in 1873, which is today the principal entrance to the fort.
Before entering by the "Old Gate" whose walls are 45 ins. thick, you will see above the gateway, on its outer side, the Coat of Arms of Great Britain and reland; on the inner side there is carved in stone a shield with a monogram formed of the letters VOC ' Vereenigde Oost Indische Compagnie '-Dutch East Indies Company-with two lions on either side and a cock perched on a rock as a crest. It bears under it the date 669. This is incorrectly accepted as the Coat of Arms of Galle; it is a heraldic badge. On a stone slab at the entrance to the Land Registry is the date 1672. This was an old Portuguese church "where services were held ” till the erection of the “ Groote Kerk ” in || 640.
Not far from the gate is the old Government House, once the residence of the Commander, built by Thomas Van Rhee. Now it is occupied by Walker, Sons and Co. Over the doorway there is a stone slab on which the date 683 and the figure of a cock have been inscribed. A noteworthy relic of the past are the old, sooty Dutch brick ovens inside. This building known as 'Queen's House' during the British era, is not without its own "ghosts." One visitor is said to be Colonel Von Hugel and another a young lady in search of her over !
On the left of the Gate is the 'Zwart' bastion or "Black Fort' where the police station now stands. This is believed to be the oldest of the bastions and the original Portuguese Citadel dating from 1580. Its rounded shape confirms its Portuguese origin. It derived its name, or so it is believed, from the fact that it ဖြိုး been blackened by the smoke and charcoal of the Portuguese Smithles.
Moving up towards Hospital Street, we come to "Matreesen Point" now called "Akersloot' after the birth place of Coster. Today it is the residence of the Master Attendant. At its entrance is a stone slab bearing the inscription " Akersloot A 1759,' a date subsequent to its erection. It was also used as a hospital and the old morgue is preserved. It is believed that an underground
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passage connecting the Zwart Fort and Akersloot existed during the Dutch occupation.
The next bastion, opposite Eglington House, is the "Aurora." The ' Utrecht ' a little further, was also known as "Visscher's Hoeck. Close by is the Powder Magazine with the Dutch inscription AGJS Gale Den JZBER Anno 1782. The new lighthouse has been built on the bastion. Close to this point is the "Elephant Rock,' its name signifying its size and shape.
Between the "Utrecht' and the "Triton' which is the next bastion, is a rocky point, once a Portuguese bastion, and later the Dutch "Flag Rock' or "Vlagge-Kiip.' Almost parallel to this rock is an island known as 'Pigeon Island' on which the Dutch had their signal post, a musket shot being fired to warn ships of hidden rocks in the harbour and to wait to be piloted in.
The famous Wind Mill was on the Triton bastion. This mill filled tanks with sea water daily, and was drawn into water carts which went round the streets of the Fort, spraying them with water. This allayed the dust and kept the Fort cool.
The next bastion is the “ Neptunus ” or “ Mars ” on which stood a signal station, dismantled during World War II. The other two bastions are the "Klippenberg' or "Reef Hill' and the "Aeolus' or "New Work."
Saar, writing in 1647, makes this interesting observation. "Between the Star and Aeolus there springs on the side of the rock a stream of fresh water, and about a distance from here, the sea washes on the rocks, so that one can, at the same time stand with one foot in fresh and the other in salt water'. Today this is an enclosed well besides which is a tomb of a Muslim saint, whose body it is said was washed ashore at this point.
The remaining bastions are the "Star" (St. Antonio), the "Moon" (Conceycao) overlooking the Esplanade, once marshland. Nearby is the Clock Tower erected in memory of Dr. Peter Daniel Anthonisz (1883). The old 'Fort Belfry" was on the high elevation alongside the Tower. The "Sun" (St. lago) cuts across the harbour end.
The line of ramparts between the Sun bastion and the Zwart Fort was fortified at two points. "Vismark' bastion occupied the angle opposite the New Oriental Hotel and the bastion "Commandement ' the angle near the belfry.
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The “ Groote Kerk ” or Great Church (built in 640) was the first Protestant church to be established in Sri Lanka. It was here that the body of General Hulft was temporarily laid to rest during the seige of Colombo (1656). In 1853 the remains of the Dutch interred here were removed to the present church. The gravestones pave the floor of the new church.
The present church completed in 1755, occupies the site of a Portuguese Capuchin convent. Tradition has it that the church was erected by Gertruyda Adriana de Grand, wife of Commandeur Gasparus de Jong, as a thanks offering to God on the birth of a daughter. The couple had been childless for many years. A nameless Wapenboard bearing his coat-of-arms is all that exists of him through whose bounty the church was built. The interior has seen little change. The old, beautiful black and white marble tablets on the walls, add an antiquarian touch to the building. The garden, too, is of historical interest. Few are aware that a vault consisting of two chambers runs underneath the garden. Opposite the Church there still stands the old Bell Tower. A Stone slab under the belfry reads Ao. 70.
Besides this church there are two others for Christian worship. The Anglican Church "All Saints' which celebrated its hundredth year in 197 and the Methodist Church erected in 1894. The "Sri-Sudharmalaya' for the Buddhists and the 'Meera Musjid' for the Muslims, are two other places of worship. These are within the Fort. The Catholic Church "St. Mary's', erected in 1874, is just outside the town.
To walk through the narrow roads once lined with Suriya trees, is to stimulate one's memory. The names of most of the streets in the Fort are mere translations of the old Dutch names. Pedlar Street-Mohrische Kramer Staat-Street of the Moorish Traders. Leyn-Baan Street (Lijn-Baan) Rope Walk Street. Moderabaay Street-Mud-Bay Street, to mention a few.
Most of the buildings in the Fort are of Dutch origin. Solidly built, they are spacious with deep verandahs-stoepes--Supported by slender wooden or big rounded brick pillars. Few houses retain their massive doors, usually in four pieces, with iron fittings and surmounted by a fan-light filled with a large cipher monogram. On either side are lofty windows. The courtyards are situated at the back of the buildings. The interiors, too, are cool and spacious with thick walls and high roofs, tiled with half-round country tiles.
The Ramparts and Bastions, as seen today, are as they existed in Dutch times. They also built an intricate sewerage system
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harnessing the high tide to wash the sewers and at its ebb to carry the discharge out. These brick-lined drains are six to twelve feet below ground level. Over the years the sea has receded from some exits, but the tide continues to run in and out of others.
Outside the Fort is the Dutch 'Kerkhof". The gates bear the date 786 and the words “ Memento Mori ”--remember death. This cemetery replaced the two within the Fort.
At Wakwella, we find "Armitage' and "Darlington' which were used as country residences of rich Dutch merchants. At Walauwatte is an old Dutch house known as “Attapattu Walau wa ", the abode of the Chief of the Eight Pattus. Here you find a collection of ebony furniture of Dutch origin. At Magalle the Kachcheri stood on a piece of land yet known as "Ja-kotuwa or Malay Fort.
Further on we come to what was, until recently, the favourite resort for bathers and surf-riders " Klossenburg'. Alas, when the Galle Port Development project came into operation, this beautiful bay was filled up to make way for warehouses for the new Port. What remains today of this beautiful and historic spot is the residence which Captain Bailey purchased from the British Crown in 1857 and dedicated to his wife by naming it "Villa Marina'. Today this building is used as a Tourist hotel.
Not far from Closenburg is o Buona Vista ' with “ Santa Baaiya' or 'Watering Point" so called because ships in former times obtained their supply of fresh water there. Further down is "Gibbet island' where it is said executions took place and " Edward's Pillar' (a masonry column) which was used as a trigonometrical station, on the summit of ' Rhumassala kanda' rich in legend, and from where one gets an exquisite view of the harbour, the town and even Adam’s Peak (Sri Pada) on a clear morning.
Unawatuna is not only steeped in legend, but is also the suburb where the Dutch commanders and merchants either resided or had their Buiten Plaatsen '-country residences. Three such houses although with certain renovations, still retain their Dutch architecture. 'Bathfield House' now a Government maternity home, the Dutch commander's lodge with its inscription on the gateway Nooit Gedacht its swimming pool, bath and canal are worth visiting. The other with its wooden posts, large doors and windows, is situated on the winding road to the “Velle Kovila.” Many strange tales are told of this kovil, especially that of the "Cave of the imprisoned sea-serpent'.
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As in the case of the Portuguese, it is natural that the things the Dutch introduced still go by a Dutch name.
Kokis-Sinhala Cakes-English Kockjes-Dutch Baas Superintendent Baas Vendesiya Auction Vendutie
February 1796, saw the siege of Colombo and on the 14th the English demanded the surrender of the town. On the 16th under advantageous terms by the British, the Dutch undertook to "deliver Colombo and all places dependent thereon,' by which all settlements of the Dutch East India Company passed on to their British counterpart. Galle was ceded to the British on February 23. In a formal manner, the keys of the garrison placed on a silver salver were handed over by Governor Dieterich Thomas Fretsz to Lachlan Macquarie of the 77th Regiment of Foot.
The English brought down Chinese labour to look after their vegetable gardens and the locality where they lived is known as "China Gardens."
industrially, Galle has very little to boast of, but she excels in handicrafts. Her fare in lace and embroidery, jewellery, tortoiseshell ware, coconut-shell ware, porcupine quill boxes, ebony and ivory curios are sought after and a must to any visitor to this historic town.
The city complex is left behind and you have the choice of either looking over your right shoulder for a last and very beautiful view of Galle, turning left to the lovely Deniyaya tea country or forging straight ahead.
Taking the main road you pass the herbarium of Rhumassala kanda, a huge mound-like hillstrangely out of place in the landscape.
Legend explains it. In the Ramayana is told the story of the beloved warrior Lakshman who was wounded in battle. Only a Himalayan herb would cure him. Distraught, Rama despatched the monkey-god Hanuman to the Himalayan mountains to fetch it.
On the way, Hanuman forgot the name of the herb and to solve the problem tore of a large hunk of the Himalayas, carried it back and dumped it at Rhumassala
We leave legend behind, skirt the coast and arrive at the Koggala Lake. This lake gained fame in the Second World War when
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it was used as a seaplane and flying-boat base. The scenic inland waterway is soon to be developed into a tourist resort.
A little way past the 82nd mile, where the road crosses the lake, boats can be hired for a veritable voyage of discovery. For the less adventurous the activity on the spit of sand and the lake has great photographic possibilities. Fishermen cast nets and little children float their toy outriggers whilst patient fathers fish from outrigger canoes. Leaning coconut palms shade the scene, their crowns mirrored in placid waters. .
Turn off near the 83rd mile on the road to the left. About 1 miles away is the Kataluwa Temple, also called Purvaramaya, which is unequalled for its paintings. On the four walls are creations by artists of four different schools of art. On the northern wall are the best paintings, particularly the story of Patachara. Opposite, are the remarkable paintings of kaffringha dancers and a troupe of western musicians.
Back to the main road and on the way to Ahangama see something unique to the Island-' stilt' fishing. Driving along, peep between the flashing coconut palms for glimpses of the stilt fishermen. Perched on sticks, planted yards away from the shore, sometimes moving from one stick to another with rod in hand they cast, poised precariously on these "stilts' jerkily, for a meagre catch. These stilt fishermen will be with you as you pass Ahangama and the tiny rock islet strangely named Yakinige-duwa-the she-devil's island, and move into Welligama.
The road forks at the entrance to the town. The older road, to your left, leads you past rows of pottery shops where you can select from a variety of delightfully designed and coloured, terra cotta, the best buy being the ornamental hanging oil lamps.
Further on and just before the second railway-crossing, look sharply over your right shoulder and see the colossal statueKustaraja. Sculptured on the face of a rock is this controversial figure. Some say it is the figure of a Bodhisatva, others aver that it is of the god Saman or Adi Buddha Samantabhadra.
it is also said to be the image of an unknown Sinhalese king who was cured of a distressing itch by living solely on the water of thambili-king coconut-for three moons.
Along this road are probably the best examples of mal lalifretwork-decorated houses: elegant decor of the South.
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Back to the fork and the broad highway which dips to the right and skirts the spectacular Wellgama Bay. The fishing boats, the golden beach, and-like jewels set in the azure blue bay-the islets of Taprobane and Parei Duwa all delight the eye.
Half a mile inland, from the old road, is an ancient temple worth visiting. In the image house of the Gangaramaya, at Polwatta, are many statues of the Buddha and other gods. Particularly striking is the large reclining Buddha statue. The 24 benedictions are moulded on the walls. On either side of the two doors are the large figure of a deva and two figures of lions.
Cross the Polwate ganga, which has its source in the hills of Nakiyadeniya, as you leave Welligama. About a mille further a diversion is suggested. Turn right from the main road and reach the Mirissa fisheries harbour. From this, the eastern promontory is yet another fascinating view of the bay you have just left. Sunsets here are an exhilarating sight. The main road drifts gently away from the sea and wends its way through fertile land towards Matara, a town with a charm all of its own.
The Nilwala Ganga flows across our path 100 miles from Colombo. On its banks has grown, over the centuries, the present town of Matara. Its origin fades into history and the only relics that remain-comparatively modern-are those of the invading Portuguese, Dutch and British-505-1656, 656-1796, 796-1948. Spices that abounded around this ancient settlement attracted the foreigners and idyllic life gave way to mercenary trade.
From the cool springs of the nearby hills, the Nilwala Ganga brought fertility to the spice gardens. The waters of this gentle river also, through eons, moulded this, the heart of the southMatara. This quiet town throbs with hidden life. Modern, yet old—very old-a ra Te example of a nachronism al Iwe.
Wisit the old market-place and feel it. Hackeries-traditional racing carts--park by fast modern sports cars... archaic travel Carts beside limousines. Within, modern merchandise hangs unashamedly, cheek by jowl with the traditional pan mir-coconut treacle packed in a recanut sheaths,
Wisit the Star Fort built by the Dutch Governor, Wan Eck, in
1763, and the old Dutch church built in 1769. Again, feel here
the old and the new. Crawl through its narrow streets in a modern car or walk in modern togs. This Fort yet alive was built centuries ago by the Dutch. Your car was built last year by, does it matter WOI

*) sae*
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Time stands still in this town. Time here is measured only by Centuries.
Watch, fascinated, the village women of this modern town garbed in the plunging W-necks of old-fashioned lace jacket and cloth-traditional, yet made modern by permissive fashion. Move slowly to the Sea Coast Road and look on that which through centuries yet remains unchanged-the sea breaking on the eternal sands. Unrecorded kings had watched the same sea that you now look upon from the crowded esplanade.
Look left and find the islet of Parai duwa (Pigeon Island). Now called and accepted with old-world courtesy as Poulier's Islanda good Dutch (Burgher) name indeed. Burghcr's, descendants of the Portuguese and Dutch, have here in Matara helped span centuries -gentle catalysts of change from east to West and back again.
On Brown's Hill at the east end of the esplanade, are modern homes built where once the bungalows-airy, spacious housesof the old colonials stood seeking the cool winds of the sea. Look from its heights and pause. The seascape is rewarding but the Wig W of the hills, to the north, that cuddle the little tea-town of Denlyaya rewards one more. Think of the roads that traverse itthink of green. Green, green country where you will huddle in cold as you climb high through the stunningly beautiful Bulutota Pass. Do not leave this island, or live in it, until you 'pass through its wistas. ■
These hills once sucCoured the wild elephants who tragically were traded to the west. Unprotesting, these beloved animals left the shores from Matara never again to return. Tamed, they were confined in stockades on the banks of the Nilwala Ganga whose flowing waters have left unrecorded irretrievable history.
Shake off the dust of the town but do not leave Matara, yet. A mile or so westwards is a treat you must enjoy. Here, in the little Cove of Polhena, is the best sea-bathing on the south coast, Dive into its warm, crystal clear waters and look upon another world. The under-water world of gardened coral through which the multi-hued tropical fish swim and frolic. Frolic and swim with the fish and only then, refreshed, leave Matara.
The 103rd milepost, the southern-most in the Island, is a pillar
from an ancient temple and is on the fringe of more Interest for the traveller-Dondra,
Dondra-Devinuwara-City of the Gods-is famed for its dazzling annual perahera lit by the Esala moon. From the villages

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of the south people flock to the Buddhist temple, in their thousands, to fulfil vows, perform religious rites or just watch the spectacle. A whole week of festivity is thoroughly enjoyed by young and old alike.
Almost opposite the southern-most milepost is the very ancient shrine. One building almost entirely of stone is aptly called-Galge. it is of singular architectural interest being the only one of its type and probably the first stone building in the Island. It is thought that this shrine dates back to the 7th century A.D.
Both faces of the walls are of finely chiselled slabs of granite and are perfectly jointed. In this shrine, a little over 26 feet long, ornamentation is restricted to the doorway.
Whatever cult object there may have been in the garbha-grhawhich together with the ante-chamber form a single complexhad been spirited away years ago leaving no evidence of the faith to which this shrine was dedicated.
Apart from the shrines, the little town itself is of not much interest except, perhaps, for the delicious hoppers baked here early in the morning. Turn right and move on to Dondra Headthe southern-most point of the island. Here, reaching 60 feet into the sky is the octagonal lighthouse set in a beautifully laid out garden. Rest awhile, or picnic here on rocks suprounded by the indigo blue sea tapestried with coral, rock and foam.
Back to the main route and little is seen of the sea as you move inland, until by the 107th mile the road plunges again towards the sea and the bay at Talalla, past the red cliffs of Kottegoda into Dikwella a little beyond the 12th mile. On the right is a small wayside devale which is interesting, its four sides open, light streams in to reveal interesting murals-easily photographed.
A diversion here is suggested. Turn left, on the Beliatta road and a mile further on is the Wewurukannala Vihara. Here on an eminence was built, recently, the largest Buddha statue in the Island. There are two shrine rooms-the smaller of much earlier origin and the larger, modern, with many statues.
Back to the main road and on to the 6th mile, where on the right is the Mawella kalapuwa. This is the first of several brackish water lagoons that you will pass on your way to Tissamaharama. A mile beyond is a narrow track, to the right, which leads to the stentorian "hoom-mane.' This noisy blow-hole, the only one in the island, is the second largest of the six known in the world.
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"Hoom-mane gives its most spectacular displays in June when the South-west monsoon is at its worst. A fountain of water shooting up to perhaps 50 or 60 feet, depending on the force of the waves, culminates in a mushroom-like formation which descends in a fine spray to drench you. Villagers say that when the sea is really rough, the spout even reaches up to a height of 'three coconut trees'.
* Hoom-mane' gets its onomatopoeic name from the deep rumble one hears just before the water shoots up. Villagers aver that when one shouts, claps and mocks the blow-hole it bursts out in screaming rage.
The orifice is at the top of a fissured cliff about 75 feet above sea level. At the bottom of this deep fissure is a flat rock covering the bottom of a narrow channel which forms the cave into which the waves roll. The water, trapped by a surging sea, is forced upwards and shoots out through the small hole in the flat rock at the top. The intrepid, it is said, could walk into this cave during the calm seasons. Good luck to them
Return, and our main road crosses the Sinimodera oya and reaches out towards the blue, blue bays of Tangalla. From the Tangalla Bay Hotel, built on the promontory separating the first two bays, is a particularly Striking view of these palm-fringed, intense blue bays.
A nodding distance away is the old-world town of Tangalla with its drooping banyan trees, old Dutch buildings, quaint travelling carts and its scintillating large bay which once harboured the fleets of the Dutch and the British. It is now only known as a gem of a bathing place. Tea planters from the cold hills often travel down to laze in its warm waters. So should you.
The quaint, old rest-house at the edge of the bay is a haven. Dating back to the Dutch occupation of the island, this building will shelter you as it has done countless other.
To the north is Mulkirigala which has an air of awesome grandeur about it, rare in this modern world. The black rock thrusting more than 300 feet into the sky has tucked into its side an ancient and hallowed temple. The rocky path to this pre-Christian temple is steep yet wel worth climbing.
Though beautiful and carefully preserved, the murals in this temple are not its claim to fame Here, less than 150 years ago was discovered the "key" to the Mahavamsa and Culavamsa, chronicles
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which have recorded the story of this island from 543 B.C. to modern times.
It was the scholarly George Turnour, erstwhile Government Agent of Ratnapura, vho discovered here this valuable tika - the commentary-which permitted the translation, first into English and four years later into Sinhala, of the Pali chronicle. The discovery was made in 1826 and together with his guru thero Galle, the Englishman unfolded to historians of Sri Lanka and the world twenty-three centuries of the Island's history.
Returning to Tangalla, continue on your journey, the road
shifting northwards and away from the sea. For many miles more
the sea will remain out of sight. On either side of the road are the
citronella distilleries. Visit one at least. Near the 25th mile
you get your first glimpse of the striking Rekawa kalapuwa (lagoon).
R
A little distance away from the 26th mile is a path to the right which leads south towards the sea. Two miles along it is the Rekawa temple with its interesting bana maduva-preaching hall. Inside is a square wooden structure from which monks preach and chant pirith. The exterior of this structure is decorated with paintings of the Jataka stories. This is one of only two such structures, with ಙ್ಗಳ್, that are found in the Island. The other is at Mihiripenne
ihara.
Either to or from the temple ask villagers to guide you along footpaths to the edges of the beautiful Rekawa kalapuwa. Its vistas are certainly worth walking a long way to see.
Eight miles away, on our road, is the township of Hungama on the edge of the more than beautiful Kalametiya kalapuwa. Pause on the road before you enter the little town. Here, at twilight, from November to April flights of duck wing their way over the road having fed at the Ridiyagama Tank-just 7 miles away as the duck flies--seeking the sanctuary of Kalametiya for the night. The twilight also silhouettes the range of hills to the north-west, the peaks of Gonadeniya (860 feet) and Kepirillakanda (799 feet)- particularly striking and beautiful.
An avenue of Rain trees leads you through Hungama and a little way on you cross the Kuchigal aru, which flows into the Kalametiya kalapuwa. Less than a mile away you must turn right and discover for yourself the indescribable beauty of this place. A reasonably well-defined track skirts the eastern shore of the kalapuwa; leave it as often as you can and walk up to the water's edge and spend hours studying, or just looking at the bird life that
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abounds in the shallows, particularly when the migrant birds visit us from November to April.
Explore also the adjoining lunama kalapuwa which, though not as picturesque, has its fair share of bird life. This is as good a picnic spot as any you have passed by.
Drag yourself back to the road and move on to the Nonagama junction, 2 miles away. The celebrated Sinhalese poetess, Gajaman Nona, lived here.
At this junction, the road to the north, reaches up towards the trapped waters of the Uda Walawe reservoirs.
Two and a half miles away as you move east, through rich paddy land, the tractor-town of Ambalantota is reached. Observe-as you pass through the symbols of affluent peasant cultivators-glittering kerosene lamps and cookers; bicycles and batiks; sewing machines and radio receivers flaunted in the shops by the road.
The old Ambalantota rest-house is now a police station. Opposite is an ancient site where once a vihara stood. Recently a limestone statue, in the Amaravati tradition, was discovered here. Excavations have revealed foundation upon foundation, revealing civilisation upon civilisation.
Cross the bridge over the broad Walawe Ganga whose waters have made rich this land. At the busy junction ahead is a road to the left which leads to the "land flowing with milk and honey'- Ridiyagama. For years this village has been famous for its delicious curd and treacle. Its large and beautiful tank gained fame for the fertility it yielded and also for the large "bags' collected by duck and teal shooters in its shallows.
Beyond this tank are the remarkable pre-Christian (200 B.C.) murals discovered by the renowned Ceylonese painter L. T. P. Manjusri, in the Karambagala cave. Still further beyond is the jungle hermitage of Madunagala and the hot springs of Mahapelessa.
If you had detoured, return and detour to the right again at the Dehigahalande junction, a half mile beyond the 142nd mile and visit the ancient hermitage and vihara at Godavaya. On the precipitous edge of a cliff, an inscription of King Gajabahu I (12-34 A.D.), gives its ancient name as Godapabata vehera. Honey-combed into the rock face are caves, separated by brick walls to form little wind-blown cells for meditating monks. To the west is a seascape painted in blue and flecked with white foam into which flows the rich brown waters of the Walawe Ganga. To the east, and almost
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below your feet, is a delightful little bay once, centuries ago, a harbour.
Back to our road which moves across the Mahasittarakala sewaya-a shallow brackish water kalapuwa from which salt is usually gathered-past the waters of Wewakande and Mirijawala and a mile ahead the road dips spectacularly towards the sea near the 46th mile.
Here, the broad beach leads your eye to a distant view of the town of Hambantota. The large Karagan levaya is on your left as . you move on towards the town. Look over its waters and see from left to right the hills of Deniyaya, Sri Pada (Adam’s Peak), Haputale and Kataragama. On a clear night you can see the flickering lights of vehicles driving through the mountain passes of Haputale. On a night like this look up-the stars are a sight to behold. Nowhere in the world can you see them nearly as clear as this.
Should you be inclined to rush past unpretentious Hambantota-stop ! This down-to-earth little town has far too much to offer. Turn your back on the broad road that leaves the town for Tissamaharama and instead take the inviting road, to the right, that climbs steeply up the side of the promontory from where you feast your eyes on what is, most certainly, the most picturesque of the many bays that you have passed.
Its calm blue waters confined by a gigantic sickle of glittering sand tapers away endlessly into the distant horizon where blue sea meets an even bluer sky. The beached outrigger canoes, their sails gently flapping-dry; the brightly painted deep-sea boats anchored out in the bay and the busy fishermen make this a stunning scene which will remain deep-etched in your memory.
Move past the residence of the Government Agent where once Leonard Woolf lived. Perched like an eagle's eyrie on the edge of the promontory, this sprawling mansion must surely have inspired Woolf who wrote so beautifully about . this beloved country. Pass by the Martello tower built by the British "in the manner of others' in then contemporary1803-Europe. The rest-house with its broad cool verandahs is to your right and only yards away. As you step towards its veran[[|''s edge the bay spreads itself out again before you, vividly beautiful.
lf, perhaps, you had dropped in during the "Open Season '- shooting of snipe, teal and duck are permitted only from November to April 30-you would be surrounded by duck-shooters counting
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their "bag of Garganey and Pintail. These rugged sportsmen carry the aura of the wide, wide-open-spaces so typical of HambantOta.
Walk up and talk to them. They will welcome you and talk of the wild animals and birds that are so much part of Hambantota, surrounded by jungle and the sea. They will talk of deer and wild boar that yet roam the patches of jungle that are within its urban boundaries. They will talk of elephants that move, ponderously, close by. They will mimic the cry of the jungle fowl and peacock that can yet be heard here. They will rave over the "swoosh' of duck-wings, as they streak over the town, flying from one lewaya to another. They will talk, in whispered breath, of the flushedpink flamingoes that fly line-ahead from lewaya to the sea and back, irresistibly, back again. They will talk of the sambhur, elephants, deer and the occasional leopard on the Gannoruwa road that arrows through the thorny jungle, northwards towards the hills.
It was along this very road that salt was transported on the back of thavalam bulls-pack bulls-when the Dutch held sway in coastal Hambantota. Each bag of salt had an adventure to relatethe journey was that dangerous. The clatter of sokada (wooden cow-bells) and frightened man their only defence against marauding leopard and the mammoth elephant, who rightfully claimed the man-made road as their domain. This road must indeed carry anecdotes of legend and history as numerous as the particles of dust that lie briefly on its windswept, parched surface.
"Ye are the salt of the Earth." How true this is of sun-scorched, salubrious Hambantota. The very air breathed, dry and invigorating, comes in gently from over the dunes and across the bay"salted" and with the tang of the sea yet in it. During the day, in the dry months, the wind veers round and the hot kachan howls in from over the land across the "pans' carrying, in its warm breath, the reek of salt.
These stark, unmechanised salt pans delight the eye. Here, Sea water which is let into "squared pans', is left to stare into the eye of an unblinking sun. The water evaporates leaving behind a harvest of salt. •
If Hambantota of today is interesting, its past certainly tantalises more. Legend, delightfully flexible legend, relates how Hambantota got its name. The older Malays chuckle as they narrate the story of how their naive, yet intrepid, ancestors from Indonesia were inveigled into this paradise. The Dutch, they say, promised them sanction to trap two wild elephants for the price of a single Coin. And so they came-in their boats called "sampans' to the
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tota-harbour, of this safe bay. Sampan-tota-the harbour of the sampans-it became; and eventually, through centuries, by influence and usage is now called Hambantota.
But this is "modern" history. The brave Greek navigators of Alexander the Great-circa 300 B.C.-knew of this safe anchorage and from this information Ptolemy, much later, named it in his map of “Taprobane ” as “ Dionysii.” And surely, nearly a century later, the irrepressible Prince Dutugemunu-born in nearby Magama-must, with his young companions, have romped on the broad sands of this bay 200 years before Christ was born.
Hambantota is without doubt the dream of the outdoor-man and many such-like the Andrados-have settled here to laze in their retirement. Everything is there for them-the bay to swim and fish in; the lewayas for a relaxed evening of bird-watching and the jungles to roam in. What else could one possibly want?
A little beyond the bazaar, the right fork leads out of Hambantota and into a veritable cathedral. A huge open-air, blue-domed 'cathedral' with its altar, the seven peaks of the holy Kataragama hills, shimmering in the heat haze, spread out before you in the distance. The road ahead tapers as it reaches out seeking this Holy of Holies so beloved of the people of this nation. If, perhaps, you are travelling along this road in July or August, at the height of the festival you will be blessed by cries of Haro Hara of pilgrims returning from this shrine, and you will feel compelled, after a while, to return their salutations.
On your right as you leave the town are the tall, bristling palmyrah palms planted years back to stop the "walking sand dunes' which threatened to engulf the township. And, beyond, to your left the salt pans of the Maha lewaya sweep inland seeking the fringes of the jungle. A little further on between you, the sea and the South Pole is Koholankala. From February to October look out here for flamingo-white flecks on blue water-migrants who can fly no farther south. w جبر
The narrow Mallala ara flows across your path spilling into the broad expanse of the beautiful Mallala kalapuwa. A drive up to its water's edge is urged. Here, in a little fishing vadi, camp the fishermen who reap rich harvests of prawns from its brackish waters. Towards its sand-barred mouth the flamingo feed in long lines; dipping gracefully into the placid water they send gentle ripples seeking the shore.
The village of Pallemalala near the 55th mile serves delicious curd. Pot upon pot of curd hang invitingly from
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the eaves of the market roofs and village huts. Nearly a mile away from the village is the turn off, to the right, that leads to Bundala. This diversion is a must.
The "out-back" village of Bundala is just five miles away and in this brief distance you pass the delicate Embilikala kalapuwa and the large, Striking, stupendous Bundala lewaya. Leave the narrow road for the footpaths that skirt its water's edge and feast your eyes on the flocks of flamingo, pelican, painted stork, teal and duck. Feast only your eyes-your stomach must look for teal and duck elsewhere. This lewaya is a sanctuary.
A little tank, Bendawewa, and its refreshing fresh water is close to the remote village of Bundala. From here the adventurous could find their way across scrub jungle, through Magama, to Kirinda on the coast. A mere 8 miles, this track is only jeepable and if the Kirindi oya is in spate, impassable.
Return along the Bundala road along which, not many years ago, the wild elephant walked in herds. The tarred road too hot for majestic feet, they now roam the scrub on either side giving way graciously to puny man. This road has now only monkeys to offer, yet their antics are a treat. Turn right towards Tissamaharama and our road drifts northwards through scrub jungle typical of the island's dry zone.
A half mile beyond the 60th mile is a fork. The left prong takes you to the Wirawila Tank-a bird sanctuary-and beyond to Wellawaya. But turn right and take the road which skirts this tank whose waters make the land suddenly green and fertile. Cross two more bridges, the first across the Wirawila channel carrying water to the fields below and the other across the Kirindi oya, its source in the cool Koslanda hills. Two and a half miles away is our destination, Tissamaharama, steeped in history.
On your way through Tissamaharama, pause. You will, of course, probably stop in any case-for a break at the pleasant resthouse or to watch from its terraces the bird life on the island sanctuary a biscuit-toss away.
But here is a region, also, that was a sanctuary of another kind. In time of trouble it was in Ruhuna that every Sinhalese nationalist sought refuge. In good times it was often a nursery of rebellion; but in bad, every patriot knew that here he could find support for his cause.
Here in Ruhuna, Vijayabahu I prepared for his epic battle against the Cholas. Here, a thousand years before him the paladin
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Dutugemunu was born. Anuradhapura fell after a millennium and a half; no other capital to the north lasted more than three centuries; but Ruhuna, (with its capital based for the most part in Magama where a small village in the wilds still preserves its name) lasted more than 2,000 years. Anuradhapura as a world Buddhist capital and Polonnaruwa as a mere 800-year-old parvenu with many buildings still standing when it was discovered, have received the greater share of archaeological attention and are therefore better known; but were Ruhuna to be as systematically explored, excavated and conserved there is no doubt it would prove-as a purely humanistic monument-no less fantastically rewarding an archaeological field.
Indeed, many ruins have in recent years begun to receive their due. Tissamaharama itself is, as its name implies, only the site of the great monastery of (King) Tissa, of about 50 B.C. At the Yattala dagaba has been discovered what is probably Sri Lanka's most ancient "elephant wall."
There is Magul Maha Vihara where tradition places the marriage rites of Queen Vihara Maha Devi, mother of the Sinhalese King without peer-Dutugemunu. The great Akasa Chaitya was a place of worship trodden by Valagam Bahu in 87 B.C. Today it backdrops the lonely elephant as it walks the Buttuwa plains in the Yala National Park. Throughout the jungle in every direction for 50 miles and more was once-prosperous inhabited land and proof lacks only discovery.
Eleven miles to the north-east of Tissamaharama are the hills of sacred Kataragama and our road narrows as it winds its way towards it. You, like countless before you and with you now, are a pilgrim to a shrine visited by the devout for over 2,000 years.
Today, the road that leads to the shrine is broad and paved. Not so long ago it was a path that meandered through thick jungle. The more devout scorn this easy route and instead trek from Jaffna, in the far north, along the east coast and through the jungles of the Ruhunu National Park to reach Kataragama.
Across the Menik Ganga and into the shrine set in the jungle go the pilgrims in their thousands all through the year. They have been doing so for hundreds of years. No one bothers about how the shrine came into being. Who questions the ways of the gods? It is by the miracles they perform, the rewards they bestow and the punishments they inflict that you will know them.
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Skanda is the ruling deity of Kataragama. He holds sway over what time and tradition have transformed into one of the holiest places in Sri Lanka. His benign influence is believed to extend over the whole of the southern region of the lsland, which the devout refer to as Deiyange rata (God's Country) and even dare not make plans for the future without asking for Skanda’s blessings on them.
Ask a pilgrim to Kataragama what time he plans to get there, and he will reply: "In God's good time." He will not presume to have any control over his plans in this country. Skanda's favours are sought by Hindus, Buddhists, Christians and Muslims alike. The pilgrimage has, therefore, become a way of life for thousands of Ceylonese and they trek to the shrine at least once every year.
The pilgrims follow the time-hallowed ritual without questiona bathe in the Menik Ganga (the "river of gems" which, with its crystal clear water, lives up to its sparkling name) don clean clothes -preferably white-then walk a few hundred yards to attend the puja in the temple at the appointed time, to make offerings of flowers and fruit and fulfil vows and do penance to expiate their sins.
The casual visitor who goes to Kataragama for the first time will look in vain for an imposing temple or for one ornamented with the carvings traditionally associated with a Hindu deity and common to the temples in South India, God Skanda's original home. He will find instead a quadrangular white building, with an elaborately carved door at the main entrance facing east, and its inside coated with the soot of camphor and oil lamps which have been burning within as offerings to the deity over hundreds of years.
The air is heavy with reverence inside the shrine room, which can accommodate about a hundred worshippers at a time. Part of it is curtained off and only the kapurala-the priest in charge-has access to it. The rest of the room is bare. No one knows when it was built, but no alteration has been made to the inner sanctum for hundreds of years. And none will be made "unless the deity should order the kapurala in a dream to do so'. That is the belief, and it is scrupulously adhered to.
its purity of design, its lack of ornamentation, its air of timelessness endows the shrine with the awesome sanctity that only years of worship by millions of people could have brought to it.
Today, the north bank of the Menik Ganga has been declared a sacred area, and the shops and eating-houses that clustered out
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side the walls of the numerous temples and shrines of minor deities in Kataragama have been moved to its south bank. In the sacred city itself, and half a mile from God Skanda's devale is the Kirivehera, a dagaba going back to the first century before the birth of Christ. There is also a mosque and tombstones to mark the graves of two Muslim saints. They are believed to be the newest additions to the sacred area, not being more than a hundred years old.
And what goes on at Kataragama?-A breath of hot wind ruffles the tops of nearby trees, sweeps across the scorching sands and gathers in its wake the wafting scent of burning incense, the stinging, unmistakable smell of Sweat as it pours off the bare backs of a thousand frenzied men, the sickly-sweet odours from scores of smoking joss-sticks and the varied perfume of a multitude of flowers.
All around are men, women and children milling endlessly, silent in prayerful meditation or shrieking incantations in languages that have passed into history. Crimson-robed figures prance around, bearing on their shoulders colourful wooden structures replete with the gorgeous feathers of the peacock, while among them, amazingly detached from the babel and the apparent confusion, strollemaciated looking men, their foreheads daubed in ash, their cheeks and tongues pierced with steel barbs and hooks fearful to behold.
From the shade of a kumbuk tree one observes, out there on the burning sand, a score or more of prostrate human forms, rolling and pitching, their backs and bellies swathed in the dirt and dust collected from long journeys similarly performed as they circumscribe in this most unusual manner the object of their reverence. The heat and the humidity are overwhelming; the air dances in waves over browned earth, grotesquely distorting the shapes of things beyond. And one wonders at the tolerance of the bodies out there, subjected to such feats of physical endurance as might, in other places and other climes, only be imagined.
To the casual visitor, the uninitiated, the scene would sometimes appear to be one of total confusion, even of pandemonium. The whole thing appears to lack even the semblance of order, while the apparent aimlessness of the milling crowd, gathered there at considerable inconvenience and sacrifice, is astonishing.
And yet, there is no pandemonium, no stampede, no rush to get through it. Tarry with them an hour or two, and one begins to realise how serious, how meaningful, all this is to those gathered there.
Conch shells blow and trumpets blare, bells tinkle and drums beat out the ancient message to the assembled throng; uncounted
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voices rise in unison to a chorus of "Haro Hara' Out in the quadrangle of the sanctum sanctorum, men of sound mind and sounder faith submit to weird ritualistic tortures. Even as one watches, the skin on their backs is pulled taut and deftly pierced with ugly hooks that one would associate more commonly with a butcher's stall. This treatment is sometimes extended to the arms as well.
The ritual is punctuated by the clanging of a bell from deep within the sacred area. The response is both instantaneous and simultaneous in all sections of the crowd. As the Brahmin priests perform the climactic rites all hands are raised in salute and reverence while a deep-throated roar drowns all other sounds. "Haro Hara'. The cry is raised again and again, mellowing and fading as the spell is gradually broken.
Devotees then push their way forward to receive the return of their offerings of fruit and flowers, now hallowed by their consecration at the sacred altar. Around the main shrine are wooden carts piled high with offerings, their ropes and chains firmly attached to hooks driven into the flesh of penitents in the region of the shoulder blades. They bear this ordeal without wincing, without murmur. Their tongues, too are transfixed by spikes driven through their cheeks.
To see is to believe, as the saying goes. But the acts of penitence performed here challenge credibility.
The Hindu rites culminate in that most mysterious act of all, the fire-walking ceremony. Scores of penitents, having washed themselves clean of physical and spiritual defilement in the cool waters of the Menik Ganga which flows by the shrine, proceed to tread on a bed of red-hot cinders, crossing and re-crossing it many times, shouting hoarsely all the while their simple prayer, "Haro Hara'! They all emerge unscathed by the white heat which prevents an onlooker from approaching within several yards of the place.
Nearby is a Muslim shrine, the Khizr Thakya, at the Masjadul-Khizr mosque. Here Muslim penitents may be observed performing astounding acts of penitence, slashing and mutilating themselves with knives and swords, or driving spikes into their flesh.
At Kataragama the adherents of three faiths meet, Hindus, Buddhists and Muslims, all with the object of making reparation for sins of omission or commission, or to seek the favour of the gods.
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The history of Kataragama goes back to the 3rd century B. C. when it was described as Kajaragama the headquarters of the warrior class known as Kshatriyas who were invited to Anuradhapura for the historic ceremony of the planting of the Sacred Bo sapling during the time of King Devanampiyatissa.
This jungle shrine will continue to wield a powerful influence as long as people feel the need for, and continue to believe in, the power of divine intervention in human affairs. It is recorded that the warrior king, Dutugemunu, set out to battle the Chola invaders who had occupied Anuradhapura more than two thousand years ago only after he had made his supplications at this shrine.
"The Kataragama god is not loved but feared," wrote the British Army surgeon Dr. John Davy in his Account of Ceylon more than a hundred years ago. And so he is, even to this day. Worshipped by Hindus as Skanda, god of war and second son of Siva, and venerated by Buddhists as Kataragama deviyo, the deity's hold on the lives and hearts of the people has not slackened with the passage of the centuries.
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CHAPTER 7
Through Negombo into the timeless past
LEAVE the hubbub of the city behind, cross the Victoria Bridge over the Kelani River and take the road to the left-Route A3. Negombo is 8 miles from here.
Pass the innumerable timber sheds on both sides of the road, the store-houses of the Island's wealth of timber and probably you may be lucky to see Menika, the elephant, haul logs into a saw mill. A little further up, the road kisses briefly a broad expanse of the river on which you could see padda boats, large scows each anchored by four poles and divers loading them with baskets of sand collected from the bed of the river.
At the 5th mile is Wattala, a predominantly Catholic area where the feast of St. Anne is celebrated in August. Thousands attend the festivities and in a carnival-like atmosphere, pork by the ton and arrack and toddy by the barrel are consumed.
Just past the 5th mile is a diversion to the left which will take you to the old Dutch Canal (Hamilton Canal), the Pegasus Reef Hotel and the Uswetakeiyawa beach. The road, though a lessused route to Negombo, passes through picturesque country more often than not close by the sea. On both sides are coconut plantations, neat little abodes of fisher families, patches of tobacco and a number of Roman Catholic churches.
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Close to Negombo on this road, is the Blue Lagoon Hotel at Talahena, with chalets laid out in 10 acres of lush green garden. Across the road, on the left by the sea, is the hotel's swimming pool.
Diversions apart, we must scramble along to our destination, Negombo, along the trunk route.
In quick succession pass the busy little towns of Kandana and Ja-Ela and at the 3 mile are two village homes on either side of the road which provide the traveller with konde kavun, traditional oil cakes, straight of the frying pan.
Over the Ja-Ela bridge, through the town and ahead is another bridge to cross, over the Kalu oya, which flows into the Negombo lagoon. Near the 14 mile are shops that sell terracotta-ware and apart from the clay pots and utility articles are dainty little figures, of animals and tills made of clay. The tilis-piggy banks of the children-come in many shapes and sizes.
On the right near the 15th mile is the Gangarama Maha Vihara. At the 16 mile is the turn off to one of the Island's largest government arrack distilleries. From this point the road straightens out.
Three-quarter mile up is the Suvisuddharama Maha Vihara. It has a dharmasalava (preaching hall) which is nearly 00 years old and is an example of typical Sinhalese architecture. There are also a small dagaba with ornate guard rails and an image house.
A house of typical Ceylonese architecture is on the right, a few hundred yards away from the temple. The delicate, traditional mal lali, decorative trellis work, is still well preserved. Further up, to the right again, is Seth Sela, a sales point for cane and basketware and children's garments made by the blind. Y
The turn off to the Bandaranaike International Airport is near the 18th mile. Four miles ahead is Negombo.
The coastal town of Negombo has an agreeably stimulating and quaint air, all its own, expressed in the energies, activities and way of life of the sea-faring folk who inhabit the place.
In the days of old, spices grew profusely in surrounding groves and jungles, especially cinnamon which flourished like the green bay tree. The Moors set up a brisk trading system, using pack bulls and manual labour to haul the cinnamon from the hinterland to the coasts of Negombo.
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The enterprising Portuguese, with better ships, cannon power and fighting men, ousted the Moors, and took possession of the cinnamon trade, and Negombo. Around 600 they put up a fortification, not for defence, but to stand guard over the surrounding cinnamon lands. As in other parts of Sri Lanka they did not hesitate to take the Bible to the people, and vigorous conversions were the order of the day. The vast churches that tower above every ward of the city today have a close influence over the lives, actions and commitments of the fishing communities.
The Dutch, charmed by "the bride round whom they danced'. (cinnamon) captured the town from the Portuguese in 1640. The latter re-captured it the same year, but were finally dislodged in 1644. The Dutch made Negombo a better stronghold. They made further improvements to the fort (1678-1720) and also made cinnamon gathered in the jungles of Negombo famous the world over. An enduring structure left behind by the Dutch is the system of the canals, stretching south from Negombo to ဝှိုါးမျိုး and reaching north to Puttalam-a total distance of 80 miles.
The pressure put on the Dutch by the British all over the Island proved successful and in 1796 they found the Dutch fort in Negombo abandoned and annexed it. The British had an inclination always to treat Dutch colonial efforts with disdain and they pulled down the greater part of the inner Dutch works to make room for a handsome jail.
During all these invasions and conversions the Karavas, a reputedly brave warrior clan who migrated from South India centuries ago and taken to fishing to survive, assimilated the historical Portuguese-Dutch-British "sandwich,' but continued with their age-old preoccupation with the sea and the lagoon.
The old rest-house (facing the lagoon near Munnakkara bridge) is a Dutch building. The Dutch graveyard is found opposite the fort walls, to the left of the gate. The most interesting tombstone, however, is that of an Englishman-Thomas Hetherington-the first Britisher to be buried in Sri Lanka after the British occupation.
There is nothing significantly older than the 19th century but the Dutch Canal which stretches through the middle of the town on which punt-shaped scows, called padda boats, ply carrying goods.
A rural stretch of the canal can be visited. To the north beyond
the bridge on Ad Nives Road beneath the still bird-haunted trees you may yet take a pleasant walk along the tow path once
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trodden by men in double harness. They were the principal motive force for the big barges. A walk worth taking.
Let's go to the Old Town, the beaches, and meet the fisherfolk.
The beaches first. The sea and the lagoon, not the Portuguese or Dutch ramparts, have been the "bulwark' for Karavas, fishermen for centuries. They still are. No place in Sri Lanka is more strongly suggestive of the sea, both literally and figuratively than Negombo.
Here they move about, robust and hardy, flashing fierce glances and bearing themselves with dignity. Strong, lithe-bodied men, some with the right ankle calloused by steering their boats, keen and ardent in spirit, sensitive to relationships and responses all roundeven combative and quarrelsome, it is said. But a strange fact endorses the kindness and sense of friendliness innate in them. Statistics and police reports reveal that this island-wide community holds the benign record of rare cases of violence. A welcome paradox indeed!
Let's take a look at them at work. On the coast, the whole day is filled with sea traffic, fishing boats putting out and coming in, fishermen caulking their boats, mending nets or tramping the beach with their broad straw hats, with a sheaf of kitul fishing rods and a heavy gaff over their shoulders. Though it is nothing more than the mid rib of a palm leaf, properly seasoned, the rod is light, pliant and strong.
Two main types of traditional or ancient fishing craft are used by the Negombo fishermen-the outrigger canoe (oruva)-(the ' catamaran" of the Western yachting world), and the true catamaran-called a "teppam' in Negombo-being a raft of logs lashed together, precisely as 'katti-maram,' its Tamil name states.
Prawn boats leave the lagoon about 5 a.m. for the trawling grounds where the waters of the Maha Oya flow into the sea. They return with their catch about 10 a.m. It is a lovely sight to see a number of boats trawling. Each boat has a three-piece sail and one of them always has markings, each with a different pattern, so that the boats could be identified from shore.
The deep-sea fishermen come in with their catches from around 4 an in their quaintly-named boats like Jude Putha' (Son of Jude), “ Gothic, " “ Santa Anna,” “ Santa Maria,” “Marie Goretti ” and "Madhu Rani'. ... and anchor by busy auction sites. A visit to a fish auction is recommended. Begin your day as near dawn as possible. One auction site is on the last spit of land between the
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lagoon and the fort, where the catch is sold as it is brought in. The operation has to be seen, it cannot be described. There are two other Lellamas-auction sites-one under a banyan tree.
Duwa, a little island, south of the calm mangrove-fringed lagoon -but now connected to the mainland by a causeway-is a teeming fishing colony. Its churches and parish life are a noticeable feature. An annual Roman Catholic occasion-it has an emotional impact on the spectator whatever his creed-is the Duwa Passion Play, in which like a lesser Oberammergau, the whole village is involved.
Fishing is the main activity in this little island, but the islanders have taken in a really industrious way to boat-building. So much so, there is a boatyard specialising in whaler-sterned motorised vessels of the "Japan type. Painted in the brightest colours and christened in the naivest names, these boats add a new dimension to an already fascinating scene.
Still further south, near Pitipana, is another boatyard that builds a French design, with a fine upswept bow and transom stern.
Always popular as a beach resort, many fine hotels and guest houses have come up along Lewis Place which hugs the coast just north of Negombo town.
Skin-dive for sea shells-the cove called mora vala, off Duwa, is one good place if you can forget that the name means shark hole. Lanka's sharks are not notoriously man-eaters, but . . . . Or turn the tables and go fishing. The lagoon, and especially the lagoon mouth, offers fine sport, the latter offering some of the best surf. fishing.
Negombo is one of the most picturesque towns in the Island and, for photographers, a paradise. Delighted tourist after tourist has acclaimed Negombo beach as the most photogenic in the island, be one's interest craft, fish or faces.
Sunshine, rain, rich fertility of the soil in Negombo, cool breezes, all combine to form an exuberant environment.
Predominantly Roman Catholic, the town has a number of churches, some large with ornamentally-worked facades and impressive belfries. Hence the town's appellation-little Rome.
With Jaffna a probable exception, not anywhere else will you get sea food as fresh, as varied, and in as great abundance. Negombo crabs are as famed as Negombo prawns, and as justly. Prawns are trapped in the lagoon-world famous prawns which, fattened and
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flavoured by an apparently unique appetizing and very nourishing combination of ooze and weed, are swept seawards thrqugh the narrow lagoon mouth on the strong ebb tides which flow through it.
Lobsters are not uncommon and oysters not unknown. The latter are too small to be served with Guinness, but they make excellent patties and an oyster omelette. If you can eat curry, the thing to do is to cultivate a local friendship and have yourself invited out to lunch.
As for fish, there's as good fish in the Negombo sea as ever came out of it. There is a variety of fish converted into appetizing curries and courses-Seer, Amberjack, Pomfret, Skipjack, Herring, Bonito, Shark and Mullet.
There is one comestible, though, that is not fishy, yet is as good in its way - the sweet known as Meegomu aluva. Turkish 'halva' comes to mind, but local aluva is a lineage in its own right, and Negombo aluva is the prince of it. It is a confection of rice flour, coconut treacle, cashew nuts, rosewater, and unexpectedly the faintest piquancy of black pepper, with a texture and flavour all its own, firmer than marsh mellow but less crystalline than fondant.
The Old Town has a pre-20th century air. A little back of the coast and stretching northwards from the lagoon is the core of the old town, a warren of narrow, twisting streets in which to this day a palanquin would find itself more at home than a motor car. This is the commercial quarter that sprang up under the protective shadow of the colonial forts.
Boutiques and shops line the streets on both sides, selling tobacco leaf, dry fish, trinkets, religious medallions and groceries. Churches reach high above, all round. One carries a rather curious name-Christ's Paupers' Palace.
Let's get into the warm, friendly, fierce ferment of people in the market place where fish and other foodstuffs are sold on little wooden platforms or platters.
The tough, vivacious fisherwomen have a lib practice of their own. They are so bold that old, and not so old, indulge openly in the manly privilege of smoking cigars and pipes. The men don’t mind it at all-or perhaps they dare not because the women can certainly express themselves in pithy, dramatic dialect, earthy idioms and ear-reddening remarks.
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Another oddity. The Karavas of Negombo have been exposed to the influences of a Tamil domestication and have also intermingled with the Sinhalese. The men and women dress entirely the Sinhalese way-shirt and sarong for the men, jacket and cloth for women. But they all address you and answer you in Tamil Indeed, a very curious bifurcation of dress and language.
Look around and you will observe another feather in the cap for the women's lib. Like a cat carrying kittens, the menfolk carry, or rather "double' the women on their bicycles to their work-places, shopping centres, deliveries and such like.
it is getting curioser and curioser. Pigs roam freely in droves in villages and haunts close by. The very freedom conferred on them has turned them into semi-wild creatures, short-tempered and difficult to approach and kill. So the owners of pigs had to think it out, or be without pork. They solved it by means of a technique native to them. Dogs were trained to hunt down the pigs. Two dogs hidden in a jute hammock slung underneath a cart were stealthily transported to where the pigs were. At the word. usi the dogs chased after a pig that was pointed out. One ear of the pig is grabbed, the dog somersaults over the pig and pins it down. Well . . .
The young bloods, sometimes use 6-foot spears in the "chase' to bring down their quarry.
To complement the perils of making a living out of the sea, the Karavas have made a joyous and merry pattern of life of their own. Negombo is dotted with toddy and arrack taverns. On holidays and Sundays the people really "go to town,' merrymaking, singing feasting, gaming, warmly welcoming strangers and visitors and treating them grandly. Festivals and fiestas are "big days' and community life is best expressed in the enjoyment of them.
Leaving the gaiety of Negombo continue your journey crossing the broad Maha oya 27 miles from Colombo. This 78-mile-long river has its source in the Hanguranketa hills. Passing through long avenues of mara trees, Marawila with its booming batik industry is reached. You could look around here for a 'buy' which should be cheaper than in the city.
Five miles further on is the Tinapitiya tank on your right. Just over the bridge watch out for fresh prawns sold here. On the right is the Taniwella Devale, the striking feature of which is the statue of a huge rearing horse. Legend has it that a wealthy
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merchant who was riding past this devale in a hurry attempted to ride past it without making the usual offering or dismounting. The horse shied throwing the rider. Very badly injured he vowed an effigy of his horse to the devale if he was spared. He was.
Chilaw is a short 7 shady miles ahead. Turn left as you enter the town and head for the beaches. Pass over the humpbacked bridge across the lagoon and take a little time off to watch the activity of the fishermen below. From far out at sea boatmen come in with their rich hauls. Your perch on the bridge offers a bird's eye view of the rich catch being loaded into baskets and carried away balanced on the heads of women and children.
inland, on the Wariyapola road, is the Munneswaram wewa and on its banks the Munneswaram Temple, said to be the most ancient of the five residences of God Siva in the lsland. Every year around August a fire-walking ceremony is held here.
It is said that when you cross the Deduru oya, which is 52 miles from Colombo, you move into the island's dry zone. As you move north you will notice that the lush green is left behind.
A quarter mile from the 61st mile is a turn off to the left that leads to the little village of Udappu where the fire is walked every year. During this festival you can see gaily-clad girls carry dune water in brass pots precariously balanced on their heads.
At Mundel, too, just 5 miles away, fire-walking is the main attraction at festival time. The huge Mundel lake is on your left as you move northwards.
A little past the 78th mile at Palavi is a turn to the left. This road skirts the Puttalam lagoon. Halfway along this road which goes up to Kalpitiya is the shrine of St. Anne, where one of the more important Roman Catholic feasts is held in July.
Beyond Palavi is Puttalam. As you enter the town, on the left is a vast lagoon. Ibn Batuta visited Puttalam in the 14th century and called it Battald. Along the road are wind-dwarfed trees, with flattened odd-shaped crowns. On the lagoon you will see many prawn and crab traps. The walled-in market place is worthy of a visit if you care to buy fresh fish, the small or the big varieties, crab, lobster or prawn. Puttalam is also well known for its dry fish and a little further beyond the market square are a row of boutiques that sell it.
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For the adventurous, there is the old North Road which passes through rugged terrain and beautiful country-through Vannativillu, Elavankulam on the banks of one of the many tributaries of the Kala oya, Pomparippu on the borders of the Wilpattu National Park and past the lonely outpost of Maraiyila (a jeep track from here leads to Kudremalai Point). Six miles further up you ford the Moderagam aru, drive past Marichchukkaddi, ford the steep-banked Kal aru, go on to the outpost of Arippu and then to Mannar. From here, if you still feel up to it, this road will take you to Jaffna.
But our road to Anuradhapura heads directly west and you take Route A12 with its new series of mileposts. Passing rapidly through the town you cross Weukan aru, a tributary of the Mi oya.
A large tank, the Tabbowa wewa, is on your left a little beyond the 9th mile from Puttalam. Large State teak plantations interspersed by jungle will be with you as the road gently drifts northwards and moves towards Anuradhapura. The Kala oya is crossed when the 22nd mile is almost over. This bridge was built near the old one which was badly damaged by raging flood waters. The church across the old bridge was also washed away, but by some strange quirk of circumstance, the statue and its pedestal inside the wrecked church were found intact when the floods subsided. A new church has now come up and the statue placed within. Travellers of many faiths stop here a while, some to gaze and others to venerate it.
Some of the earliest settlers of the area were Kaffirs. Their descendants, though much inter-married, can be recognised by their crinkly hair and thick lips. Further up along the main road is the turn off to the right that leads to the vast Rajangane tank.
Near the 27th mile from Puttalam, to the left this time, is the turn off to the Wilpattu National Park, the Island's largest game sanctuary. Pass through the nearby village of Nochchiyagama with its colony of potters, Tamil-speaking and with sharp features, their primitive wheels still turn out black clinker chutties, clay cooking utensils, which the islanders assert make their curries just that much tastier.
Vegetables and fruits grown in jungle-cleared chenas are on sale at spots along the road. They are cheap and fresh.
Pass the tank near Mahabulankulama at the 39th mile and with the next large tank, the Tissa wewa, you are in Anuradhapura.
Anuradhapura flourished around 2,000 years ago. It requires a romanticist and sentimentalist, even one a little regardless
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of “ scientific ” disputation, to breathe warmth into the cold stones of hoary ruins and rear again to the mind's eye its broken monuments, re-people with colourful crowds its empty places, re-light with scented cressets its darkened thoroughfares and refill the deserted shrines with the fragrance of flower-offerings.
Admit this, and with apology, we quote at length just such an
imaginative exercise, which succeeds in bringing vividly to life this fantastic scene.
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. . . . In the very centre of this stretch of cultivation lies the mighty city of Anuradhapura. The lofty palaces and monuments of its sacred cnclosure tower above the rest of the buildings which cover the land for the space of two hundred and fifty square miles. At all approaches ornamental causeways with massive granite paving converge upon the gates and hint by the rich carvings of their marble curbs at the cunning of the artificer within. The colossal bastions on the walls serve the citizens for the defence of their sacred treasures. Thousands of people are passing to and fro under the avenues of noble tamarinds that shade the broad streets. Crowds of elephants, some with gilded howdahs, with their burden of nobles in silk apparel pass near us. On entering the gates, instead of crowded buildings as in a modern city, we see monastery and temple, palace and shrine, spaced with fine lawns and extensive beds of sweet-smelling flowers, diversified by groups of palms and spice trees.
"As we walk along the level highway to the Sacred Bo-tree the perfume of jessamine and champac is wafted in the breeze. There is a quiet and reverential bearing amongst the people, and the whole place wears a sacred air. Silent crowds are walking towards the large square enclosure in the middle of the Mahamegha garden, where the leaves of the sacred peepul may be seen quivering above the ornamental stone terraces that surround it. The sanctity with which the tree is regarded can be gathered from the splendour of the structure that invests it, and the care with which it is guarded. An extensive wall of granite, with cornices and coping enamelled with chunam resembling ivory, forms the boundary of a marble-paved court, to which there are four entrances of great architectural merit. Each of these is canopied with a roof of brass supported by twenty pillars, each hewn out of a single stone, set in a raised stylobate of immense granite slabs with bold curbings.
"This is reached by a flight of sculptured steps, the first of which is an exquisitely carved semi-circular slab with a guardian on either side in bas relief. Within the court are

lavishly embellished halls containing images of Buddha, some carved in stone and others worked in precious metals. An inner enclosure is formed by tiers of stone terraces raised around the sacred tree, the central object of unceasing veneration as an offshoot from the very tree under which Gotama sat until he attained perfection. It is therefore naturally, held to be endowed with miraculous power for promoting the spiritual welfare of believers. They crowd the court by day and night. No sooner has the sun gone down than a myriad lamps light up the scene, which is all the more impressive in its contrast with the dark shadows of night beyond.
" From the Mahamegha garden, broad streets spanned with arches hung with gay creepers with their sprays of scarlet, lead to palaces whose golden pinnacles glitter in the sky and to stately shrines on whose white domes the sunbeams glisten with radiant glory. Slender columns of granite with exquisitely carved capitals and festooned with garlands border all the ways. Between the columns stand vessels with blossoms that fill the air with perfume, and statues holding lamps. Thousands of yellow-robed monks pass in stately procession, headed by princes and nobles upon gaily caparisoned elephants; for the national life within the sacred precincts is a perennial drama of ceremonial observances. The chief events of Buddha's life are represented in miracle plays, and performed in spacious theatres with realistic scenery. Dancing halls are amongst the most popular institutions, and the music of shells and drums resounds in every street . . .
"From the courtyard of the Brazen Palace the thunder of sixty-four kinds of drums announces that the king, surrounded by a thousand monks, has taken his seat on the ivory throne in the great hall. This hall is the central apartment of the building, around and above which are a thousand rooms disposed in nine storeys. The massive structure is built upon eighteen hundred monoliths covered with chased copper and set with precious stones. Even the lines of the roof are picked out with sparkling gems, and the gorgeous richness of the whole edifice within and without almost passes comprehension. This palace has been bestowed by the king upon the priesthood. It represents the supreme efforts of architect, artist and builder, and stands without a peer among the many mansions of the holy city.
"But even this is dwarfed by the massive shrines that rear their heads in all directions. The new religion has filled its votaries with almost superhuman energy, and only the very hills themselves can compare with the buildings which are
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the outward expression of their devotion. Foundations, laid to the depth of one hundred feet, are composed of alternate strata of stone and iron cemented one on the other. Upon these, pedestals of massive granite are placed and surrounded by sculptured elephants, which appear as bearers of the Superstructure, which rises to a height of four hundred feet and contains millions of tons of solid masonry. At the four points there are shrines approached by handsome flights of steps; and to these come thousands of worshippers, all of whom grace the altars with gifts of flowers. Not only are the steps and shrines strewn with blossoms, but on days of festival the entire dome is festooned from base to summit with choicest flowers till it resembles, a huge bridal bouquet, and over it sprays of water continually play . . .
"There is ample evidence on every hand that religion is not cultivated to the exclusion or even at the expense of cleanliness. The pokuna or bath is quite as ubiquitous as the shrine and monastery, and is constructed on a commensurate scale. There are many measuring about one hundred and fifty by sixty feet, and twenty-five, feet in depth, paved with marble, with tiers of granite rising from the floor to the surface. The upper part is adorned with beautiful mouldings, and at either end are flights of marble steps with handsome balustrades.
"Here and there are temples hewn out of the solid rock, with chapels for the reception of images of Buddha. All around, within and without, the solid mass of gneiss is carved with scenes of his life or engraved with precepts of his faith.
"Even more worthy of note are the extensive monasteries attached to every temple and shrine, many of them as large as an English country town. Especially beautiful are the designs of the steps leading to the entrance halls. They are supported on either side by gracefully sculptured guardians. The rich scrolls of the balustrading and the intricate carving of the moonstones . . . claim a large share of attention.
"For a space of twenty square miles extends the inner city, entirely devoted to religious edifices and the palaces of the king and nobles; but beyond this for two hundred and fifty square miles stretch the hives of industry that support it. There are streets without number, each assigned to a particular class of artisan; the potters, blacksmiths, sandal-makers, carpenters, stone workers, gold-Smiths, tanners, ivory carvers, gilders, and others, are all separately located. The completeness of organization is thorough . . . the results are astounding,

and only possible under a unanimous belief in the one religion, to which all industry is subservient. From the rude manufacture of sun-dried bricks to the fashioning of miniature trees with roots of coral, stems of silver, leaves of gold and flowers of gems, every effort is directed to the service of religion." -H. W. Cave: The Ruined Cities of Ceylon.
This fascinating picture notwithstanding, it would be foolhardy to visit Anuradhapura-whose only glories are of its past-if a purely romantic approach were one's only gate to "the pleasure of ruins': a slightly more informed one adds immeasurably to that pleasure. "Ah!' commented a tourist, in somewhat resigned recognition : " Another stupa '! You could do better than that.
Should you wish to, there is no better way than to visit first of all Anuradhapura's Archaeological Museum.
A stupa is a stupa is a stupa (even when it is a dagaba (dagabha), a seya (saya ), a chaitya. . . . . all synonyms ) but it is far from a mere pile of massive masonry. In its present form it is the culmination of centuries of architectural and symbological evolution, and the Museum will teach you painlessly to differentiate features, recognize styles, appreciate detail, fathom the deep metaphysic it represents. (The "relic chamber of a dagaba is, for instance, not only a thesaurus but-though intended to be hidden for ever in the monument's heart-a model of the Buddhist cosmos). Learn, also here, to tell one from another the different periods of sculptural art : Amaravati, Gupta, Pallava . . . Study the development of the Buddha Image . . . All these things make sense and make of a ruin a pleasure rather than just "another stupa'
None but the archaeological enthusiast will wish to visit every Anuradhapura monument; but a few of these are such as most people would be glad not to have missed: the most interesting are named below. For your convenience, three excursions leave from the gate of the Tissa Wewa Rest-house; but a map would of course enable you to arrange your own itinerary. Walk, if you can: the distances are not great (save in Excursion Ill: 10 miles) and a car with a "guide/driver' is not good for Pottering. Unless you are in an especial hurry, potter all you can: you will discover unexpected rewards.
Excursion (3 miles --) : Take the road that leads off northward almost opposite the gate but a little to the right of it. (Tuparama Road). This will bring you past the Archaeological Museum-but the Museum should have been a preparatory excursion, in its own right-and eventually on to the bund of Basavak
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kulama. On your right is the Ruvanveli Seya; but you will visit this later on the trip. Bear right where within sight of the Tuparama dagaba, unmistakable by its small size and the graceful crowned columns that surround it, the road forks away from the bund.
The columns round the Tuparama stupa once supported a building with circular walls and a ring-shaped roof which enclosed all but the spire: such a shrine, common around the 7th Century A.D., was a peculiarly Sinhalesc development of Buddhist architecture and was called avata-da-ge (circular relic house). The vatadage was, of course, added long after the stupa was built. First of Lanka's dagabas, this one was naturally the most-often-repaired and built over, as it was the first, also, to be rebuilt in modern times (1862) whence its present "bell' shape dates. The original was of the "paddy-heap' shape, the natural slope adopted by unbound particles, and indeed we are told that the original was built of earth dug from the bed of the Abhaya Vapi.
Tuparama Road having circled clockwise around the stupaand it is worth pointing out that this way, right-handed, is the customary, the polite and auspicious direction in which to do sowill bring you now to a cross-road. Here turn left and walk the further quarter-mile to the King's Palace, by the left of the road. A little farther on still, but on the right, is what remains of the Mahapali Alms Hall. Next, is a temple said to have once enshrined the tooth relic.
The chief item of interest at the Mahapali site is the great stone “ boat ” which has lain here untold centuries to hold offerings of food from the devout laity to the sangha of Buddhist monks. Such dana was equitably shared in exchange for "meal-tickets' of wood or bark. And the fact that such organization was required, as well as the fact that many such boats 臀 stone or bronze were distributed about the city, as well as the fact that at one time in order to fill these boats a cess was imposed on every sack of paddy carried into the capital, gives some idea of the proportion of clerical contemplatives to labouring lay.
The archaeological enthusiast may care to press on a little farther to the very broken ruin known as the gedige, for this type of building consisting of exceptionally massive side walls meeting in a corbelled arch was another peculiar to Sinhalese architecture. The name gedige is the name of its style, not its purpose. It is conjectured that the image house of the Jetavanarama was so built. But it is amongst the ruins of Polonnaruwa that the style may be seen at its best, and unquestionably impressive it is.
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Turning back now, retrace your steps and continue south beyond the cross-roads (you are now on the road called Swarnamali Mavata) until the colossal Ruvanveli Seya is at your right, when the short side-road to the shrine will appear. Try, if you can, to get here on a full-moon night, and make the circumambulation of the dagaba by moonlight.
Continuing southwards across the so-called esplanade, you cannot miss (on the left hand-side) the strange stone forest, 1,600 close-set columns, which is all that stands from King Parakramabahu I's restoration of the Brazen Palace; and very near by, to its right, is the enclosure of the Sri Maha Bodhi or the Sacred Bo-tree: to many Buddhists, the emotional climax of a visit to Anuradhapura.
The road Mihindu Mavata will take you back to your starting. point in little more than a quarter of a mile.
Excursion 11 (3 miles): Choose for this walk an afternoon, so that your return, along the bund of Tissa wewa, will be made memorable by the sunset. Count on about 3 hours.
Turn left at the Rest-house gates, then sharp left again in about half a mile, on to the road sloping up to the crest of the bund. Rather less than half a mile along, take the path to the left that descends to the Park of the Goldfish at the bund's foot. Walking on parallel to the bund will bring you, through faded but evocative images of the park's one-time beauty, to the Isurumuniya Temple. Amongst the boulders nearest the temple are several shallow caves, on the wall of one of which is incised a curious circular diagram which has never been explained, or dated. It is often described as a map. If so, it is possibly a map of the Cosmos-compare the seven concentric inner circles, which may represent the seven seas that surround the cosmic mountain, Meru, which you will remember from your investigations in the Museum of the symbolology of the stupa. The diagram is said to have features in common with the 3,000 BC diagram on the floor of the Villa of Good Fortune excavated in Olympus in Macedonia.
surumuniya is probably the most beautifully-sited shrine in Anuradhapura. In addition, it contains two of the most beautiful and most famous carvings in the City (each typical of its period) the Pallava Man and His Horse and, the Gupta Lovers. The monastery to which the shrine belonged received its name from the 500 nobles (issaras : those of the first rank) who-filled with faith by the miracles attendant on the planting of the Bodhi Tree-sought immediate ordination as monks. The 500 commoners,
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of the vessa caste, who were similarly moved, were placed in a separate monastery therefore named Vessagiriya: a strange, and invidious, distinction in that first flush of a faith that deplored, indeed forbade, such distinctions. The name Vessagiriya was in modern times bestowed on the rocky site about half a mile to the south of Isurumuniya Temple, but is certainly a misidentification; the group of rock caves here were positively part of the lsurumuniya Vihara proper, and as examples of one of the favourite types of early Buddhist "architecture' in Sri Lanka they are certainly worth visiting. This is easily accomplished by turning right where the drive from the Temple joins the Kurunegala Road and proceeding southward. Note the drip-ledges cut in the cave brows to prevent rain-water from trickling within, and the walls in the cave mouthsa stone door sill in a brick curtain still stands in one of them-which converted the cave into a habitable chamber. In some caves are still the stone slabs on which the occupants slept. Over many of the drip-ledges, inscriptions name the donor of each habitation, and one hear the stone doorway already mentioned records that the cave below was the gift of King Kassapa of Sigiriya and his two daughters Bo and lpuli. At the southern end of the rocky pile is an ancient stone quarry showing clearly, by remains in various stages, how wedges were employed to split the rock as required.
From the Kurunegala Road hereabouts a road doubles back to the bund and your return at the edge of the sunset-lit water.
Excursion III (10 miles) : You will need a car for this excursion; but make sure that your driver, even if he professes to be a "guide', stops where you tell him and that you know where to tell him to stop.
Turn left from the Rest-house gates at Tissa wewa and follow the Puttalam Road for just under a mile. Beyond the bridge over the Tissa wewa spill turn right, on to Vatavandana Para, then at the first considerable cross-roads, right again, on to Arippu Road. Something less than half a mile along this will bring you to - on your right-the Western Monasteries: archaeologically as well as ideologically one of the most intriguing of the Anuradhapura sites.
The western suburbs of the capital were its least desirable quarter. Here were the burial grounds and cremation sites and the place of execution, together with the dwellings of the very lowly community whose duty it was to tend these of the scavengers of the city; and here, around the 8th century settled a community of monks whose "rule' was an angry protest against the worldliness they believed had rotted the older foundations. They screened themselves off by head-high walls from public observation,
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they ate rice with only the rank and bitter oil of the margosa tree for relish, and clothed themselves in robes made of scraps stripped of the corpses from the nearby charnels. Their quarters were beautifully built, of well-proportioned meticulously-dressed plain stone, but the only embellishments were of their lavatories, works of curious sophistication with intricately-carved squatting plates and screens . . . and the carving very often chose for its subject the unlikely motifs of the ambitious architecture which housed their less ascetic brothers as though to say, "This is how we value the pomp and luxury by which you lay such store.' That many of the laity approved their point was shown by a striking incident just before the fall of Anuradhapura. By this time the abodes of the tapovana (or eremitic) monks of which these western monasteries were urban representations had become sanctuaries for an accused, much like the Houses of Sanctuary of mediaeval Europe.
A group of court officials who had cause to fear their king accordingly took refuge here, only to be followed by the king and his henchmen, and there beheaded. Outraged, the tapovana community departed as a group for Ruhuna, a virtually independent principality. At this the populace and the army as well rose in revolt, scaled the tall Ratnaprasada (whose ruins you will shortly see) in which the king's supporters had in turn taken shelter, beheaded them and tossed their heads from the windows. Not until desperate emissaries from the king had followed the ascetics to Ruhuna and (it is pleasant to relate) through the good offices of all the Buddhist Brotherhood persuaded them back to accept the king's abject apology, was peace restored. «(;
Architecturally the habitations of the tapovana sect (also called pansukulin) are sui generis, and are duplicated in many another monastery of the fraternity as at Ritigala and Arankele. We have already noted their high-walled enclosure-these were necessary only in the city-and their fantastic latrines. There are many other characteristics: all are built, when possible, on rock and consist of two pavilions connected by a stone bridge; all incorporate a pool; all have a porch of stone slabs over the main entrance to the main enclosure and all the main entrances are from the east. One of the porches in Anuradhapura houses a pair of surprisingly comfortable stone couches. Comfortable, that is, if you are the right size
. You should return now to the cross-roads and follow Vatavandana Para further. It will bring you next-after nearly two miles ; but you cannot miss the ruin because of the towering monolithic columns that earned for it in the years of ignorance the name of Elephant Stables-to the Ratnaprasada, of which we have already
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spoken. In point of fact, it was a palace of an abbot of the Abhayagiri, the personal gift of a 2nd century A.D. king. The guardstones here are particularly fine,
Passing behind the Abhayagiri dagaba the road leads next to the Queen's Pavilion, an unidentified run of unlidentified purpose, but typical of many Anuradhapura temples in the quincunx disposition of the buildings comprising it.-with the chief building in the centre and four others at the corners of a rectangle surrounding it, like a five of cards. It is most notable, however, for ono of .Island טיs In thטחסstחססוח stםחthe fi
Drive on now until a 'T' junction of roads compels a turn off, But do not fail to look (left, about a quarter of a mile from the Abhayagiri) for the Samadhi Buddha image which has been held b many, Including Jawaharlal Nehru of India, to be amongst the world's finest of the Sage in Serenity. There are those who hold that the expression of the face changes with the light falling upon it.
Turn right at the 'T' junction, right again at the cross-roads that follow, and right a third time at the next "T". But stop here for a visit to the most perfect piece of conservation and restoration carried out in the city in modern times; the Kuttam Pokuna, or Twin Ponds.
Actually the ponds are not twin; the larger is 32 feet long, the smaller only 9, but the eye is not taken by the difference. Almost certainly the ponds were part of a monastic establishment, perhaps of the quincunxial ruin called the Kaparama a few hundred yards away. The latter has been identified as a pirivend, a Buddhist university, built-or enlarged-in the mid-7th century.
Continuing now down Wata-vandana Para, one passes on the right just before joining with the main road to Mihintale, the giant dagaba of the Jetavanarama. A quarter of a mile along the Mihintale Road-you will have turned on to it to the right-on the right of the roadway but a little removed from it is the Buddhist Railing, in stone, to inspect which it is worth alighting.
The road back to your starting point is from here difficult to describe without a map; but you will hardly need one if you are being driven. (You have a motor map, of course, if you drive yourself). You will pass on your way the Dakhlna. Thupa, Beneath it, there are reasonable grounds to believe, are the ashes of King Dutugem unu's funeral Pyrte,
The city of Anuradhapura at the period for which Cave's description is (more or less) valid - that is, at the height of its prosperity,
 

sae.
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around the 5th to 7th centuries A.D.-appears to have been judged by qualified observers, who left written testimony to their impressions, pretty near unique for its opulence, and no less for its piety, wherever in the world you looked. Wherever, that is to say, in the civilized world. And that had, by this time, become almost exclusively the Oriental world from Byzantium to China. For Egypt was long spent, Babylon had fallen, Knossos was forgotten, Greece was engulfed, Rome had perished. But Anuradhapurathough not the Sinhalese Throne-was to perish too, some three centures later; which makes this a logical point from which to survey the main events of the မိုးဗုံးဒင်္ဂီမှ ဧန့္် that built the city's glory and the three hundred that sufficed to destroy it.
It was not until the fourth generation of Sinhalese kings (if the chronicle called the Mahavamsa be taken as history) that Anuradhapura became a royal capital; and not (relying on the same source) until more kings had reigned that legend and tradition begin to be authenticated by contemporary epigraphical cvidence, Nevertheless, certain approximate dates are logically incontrovertible.
Prince Wijaya, the half-legendary founder of the Sinhalese race, set up his ီဒါဇို့ an unidentified place named Tambapanni. When he died without a royal heir he named, according to the Indian custom, his brother, who had inherited their father's Indian possessions, as his successor. The latter, however, advanced as he was in years, offered the new kingdom to whichever of his sons desired it; the youngest, Prince Pandu was Dewa, accordingly arrived to succeed his uncle but found the latter already dead and his reign followed by an inter regnum of a year. The date was probably around 400 B.C.,
Many of Wijaya's chief followers had founded settlements (gamas) for themselves, upon which they bestowed their own names. At one such-Upatissa Gama-Wijaya's Councillors had maintained an interim government during the interregnum; and here, with commendable unami Tmity, they established Pandu was Dewa who continued in it as his capital. His son did likewise. Not so Pandu kabhaya, his grandson . . . Among the Settlement:5 Wijaya's chieftains had established was that called Anuradha Gama not only because a chief of that name had been its founder but also because, it lay under the protection of theasterism Anuradha. Then, as though this wora not enough, a second Anu radha ဖုံးဖြုံ့ဖြို t have occupied it, in near-kingly state : one of the uncles the ambitious Pandu kabhaya dispossessed. Pandukabhaya, advised by his soothsayers that the site had all the makings of an auspicious capital, here placed the royal palace and set about the labours that should raise Anuradha Gama ofyoreto Anuradha Pura of the future (pura

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city, metropolis). And sooth had the soothsayers said. For Anuradhapura was to stand 1,300 years its nation's focus and symbol and lodestone.
The Mahavamsa (Ch. X) rccounts in detail King Pandukabhaya's organization and beautification of his capital. A single monument, alone, remains unquestionably from his time to this day : the “tank ’’ now calcd Basavakkulama attested, though by a later epigraph, as the reservoir Abhaya Vapi, the first identifiable example of thousands of such works of royal foresight and piety. Apart, however, from the actual foundation of the city as the Sinhalese metropolis-' the fair face of thc Land of Lanka' the Mahavamsa lovingly describes it-King Pandukabhaya's contribution to it lay mostly in the field of municipal organization: it was for each succesSor in thirteen centuries to add to it with fond pride (if not without a Sense of emulation) the lakes, parks and gardens, the cloud-capped towers, gorgeous palaces and solemn temples until the not-soinsubstantial pageant-witness its thousand-years-abandoned but still mighty ruins-was complete.
A great wave of building swept the city in the reign of its founder's grandson, King Devanampiya Tissa (250-20 B.C.) raised by the vast impulse of the official conversion of king, court and populace to Buddhism. As might be expected, the chief-almost the sole-architectural activity under this stimulus consisted in the raising of viharas (monasteries) and other merit-earning constructions and institutions: a pattern that would persist throughout the nation's history and account for the lack in every ancient Sinhalese site of ruins from any non-religious or non-royal or nonpublic structure-at the very least. The named structures of King Devanampiya Tissa's reign which today may still be traced were the Maha (great, foremost) Vihara; a "Brazen Palace "-for its roof of bronze-which may or may not have been the forerunner of the building at present so called, and which was apparently part of the Maha Vihara complex; "a building for the great Bodhi-tree" ; the Tuparama dagaba, enshrining the right collar-bone of the Buddha, the first dagaba in the Island, and a separate monastery, the Tuparama (stupa aramaya) devoted to its maintenance; the lsurumuniya Monastery; and the Tissa Tank.
It is likely that the original buildings on the sites of the ruins called today the Ramsimalaka and the Mahapali were the Convocation Hal and the Refectory, respectively, of the Maha Vihara. But the precincts of the latter were in later times so encroached upon by rival foundations, and so many new monasteries arose to house the ever-growing sangha (the brotherhood of monks) and so many
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Seekers after merit rebuilt and altered what was already established, that in the absence of epigraphical proof it is impossible to be sure.
An even more sweeping wave of architectural activity followed some seventy years later. The urge behind it was twofold. The capital and the country round it had passed for over half a century into the hands of adventurers from South India. Even the Mahavamsa admits that they proved good rulers-the last of them, Elara, became the hero of a worldwide fable of the inflexibly Just Judge-but they were South Indian, and Hindu ; the North Indians of Vijaya's planting had long become Sinhalese, and Buddhist. When, therefore, about the mid-2nd century B.C. the Sinhalese paladin Dutugemunu defeated Elara and became king his enthusiasm for Buddhist works was unconfined. Now began the tradition of the grandiose; especially of the giant stupa typical of Sinhalese Buddhism. The Mirisaveti, the first of King Gemunu's dagabas, had about twenty times-and his masterpiece, the Ruvanveli, about a hundred times-the cubic content of their prototype in the Tuparama. King Gemunu, too, built a Brazen Palace, or rebuilt the old one, and the Mahavamsa's description of it--a hundred cubits foursquare and a hundred cubits high, its " thousand" chambers "overlaid with silver' and with gem-set walls, their balconies, windows railed with coral; and an inner pavilion hung with a trellis of garlands of pear-is worth reading even as fantasy.
it is worth, also, re-telling the story of the foundation of the Mirisaveti dagaba and its attendant monastery-so large that, to conserve space, some of its buildings stood on piles over the water of the Tissa Tank-if only to demonstrate how great a force was the Buddhist onus as an incentive to a builder. When King Gemunu in an excess of pious remorse recollected that for a relish with his meal-and, obviously, at that period still a rare relish-he had actually eaten a whole red pepper without any thought of the share piety should have bade him offer to the sangha, he made expiation by offering the Mirisaveti (miris: a red pepper) instead. Only incidentally, the dagaba commemorated, as well, his victory over Elara; for it was raised over the spear (containing in its haft relics of the Buddha: the customary palladium in battle of Sinhalese kings) which Gemunu had planted in this spot while he engaged in a "water festival' that celebrated his victory.
Somewhat less edifying, but not without cause, was the motivation behind the building of the next great stupa, the mighty Abhayagiri. Where this-so it seems-strangely brooding ruin still stands there had stood since the time of its founder, Pandukabhaya, a hermitage of Jains. In a bare generation (but five reigns)
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since the glories of King Gemunu's rule sympathy between monarch and subjects, as between monarch and sangha, had tragically deteriorated; and there is reason to think that the Jains had been implicated in a plot to overthrow the Vijayan dynasty.
However that be, by the end of the 2nd century B.C. the Tamils were again in possession of Anuradhapura; and as the Sinhalese ruler whom they had ousted, Valagambahu, fled-leaving behind, for better speed, his queen comforted (one hopes) by a parting gift of "his splendid diadem-jewel"-the hermit Giri, one of the Jains, gloated from his cell: "Ha! the great black Sinhaya is on the run Valagambahu nursed his grudge for fourteen years, and when at last he won back his throne-aided by subjects with whom he appears to have been hardly popular because only so, as the sangha rallied them, could be furthered the Buddhism which (at least) they cherished-he vindicated both himself and his professed religion by putting Giri to death, razing his hermitage, and building where it had stood the largest stupa yet. Its name Abhayagiri was a malicious cant on Giri's own and a denial (abhaya : fearless) of the cowardice with which he had been taunted. It is a curious fact that almost from the day of its founding the vihara attached to the stupa became a home of schism. Moreover, when Uttiya, one of Valagambahu's generals, founded a monastery as well-that of which the present Dakkhina-thupa is the landmarkthis in turn became the home of secessionists when schism soon overtook the schismatics themselves !
The fourth, and from many points of view the final period of architectural creativity within the capital followed in the reign of King Mahasena (276-303 A.D.) the last of the so-called Great Tradition (Mahavamsa) though he was neither the last of the Vijayan dynasty-that had come to an end two centuries earlier-nor the last of his own line of Lambakanna : it was just that he seemed the last of the kings in the grand manner by the time, the turn of the 5th-6th centuries A.D., at which the first part of the Mahavamsa epic was written. Mahasena's contribution to the city was a fantastically ambitious monastery, the Jetavanarama, deliberately founded as a rival (in every way: from doctrine to temporalities) to the orthodox Maha Vihara. It contained the hugest stupa ever built: some 400 feet to the tip of its spire and 370 feet across its base, so that, as Emerson Tennent (Ceylon-1860) characteristically calculated, the bricks it contained would build a wall a foot thick and 10 feet high the 400 miles from London to Edinburgh. The stone door jambs of the monastery's image house, one of which still stands, were made to match. They were monoliths, and the still standing one is reared 27 feet above present ground-level.
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If this account of buildings added to the capital at successive stages appears to be largely one of "bigger and better' stupas, that is only an over-simplification of a fact. With the most minor of exceptions, all that today survives in the city was religious in purpose. Anuradhapura was the world's Buddhist headquarters even more than it was a royal capital, and the stupa was its symbol. Saving the King's Palace-a very late building, erected, indeed after Anuradhapura had been abandoned as a seat of government-the Palace of the Mapa-a high official's residence to be placed by its style in the city's last regnant years-and a few stone bridges, all the ruins are those of religious foundations. Most of them seem to date, at least in their origins, from the period of the Mahavamsa. the absence of epigraphical proof it is impossible to say more than this.
One other class of construction, if hardly of edifice, must, however, certainly be mentioned. Significantly in this sun-struck land, waters and pleasances played an important part in beautifying the city as well as in providing it with a prime utility. Anuradhapura owed its very foundation to the presence of a perrennial pool at its site: perhaps (for it has never been separately identified) the nucleus of Pandukabhaya's Abhaya Vapi. To supplement this were built: the Tissa Tank (by Devanampiya Tissa, in the 3rd century B.C.) and about two centuries later the great water known as Nuwara Wewa, the City Reservoir.
Nearly as important were public gardens and parks. It was the city-founder Pandukabhaya's son who laid out the first of them, the Mahamegha Vanna, the "Forest' of the Great Cloud (for an unexpected cloudburst of always welcome rain had blessed its beginning) and it was this deep grove of grateful retreat that became the precinct of the Maha Vihara. North of it lay the Nandana Garden. One such pleasure ground-perhaps the gem of them all, for it was exclusively a royal pleasance-actually remains, in at least sufficient order to enable a not-too-imaginary reconstruction: the Ran-masu Uyana, or Park of the Goldfish, beneath the bund. of the Tissa Tank. Here a miniature artificial river was made to purl and cascade amidst boulders and through groves of flowering trees, widening now into a bathing pool; now by some trick of ingenious hydraulics made to gush forth in an unexpected fountain or in jets that played delightfully on stone couches on which bathers reclined; while bridges that crossed and re-crossed the stream or simply springing from rock to rock invited contemplation, and embowered seats and shaded pavilions provided for dalliance (perhaps) of a more active sort. An especially charming feature is the large pool nearest the Isurumuniya Temple, with its literally lotuseating elephants carved in varying relief on the rocks that overhang
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it who seem to share their obvious refreshment with such human occupants of the pool as may be.
For half a millennium more the architectural glories of the Mahavamsa builders would be preserved, some kings restoring and preserving them, some indeed enlarging and improving, and Anuradhapura would continue to flourish. But the sorry tale of royal rivalries, factional intrigues and jealousies, and consequentlyencouraged foreign incursions becomes more frequent, and by the 0th century the capital's regnancy was over. True, kings resorted to it even long after it had ceased to be a capital. Vijayabahu I, who in 1070 won Sri Lanka back for the Sinhalese after it had been for the better part of a century a South Indian province, and his grandson Parakramabahu l-Surely kings in the Great Traditionbuilt in it: the King's Palace, so called, was almost certainly the structure raised by the former so that he might be crowned in Anuradhapura and thus emphasize his restoration of the ancient kingly line; and the Brazen Palace of today-that forest of pillars, many of them quarried from other buildings by then hopelessly in ruin-is Parakramabahu's resurrection of the age-old monument. As late as the 15th century a king of Kotte attempted to renovate several of the more manageable monuments; and as late as the late 18th century a king of Kandy attempted the same task but found it little practicable.
But one touching faith was kept. Up to the present day the Bodhi Tree has never lacked its accredited guardians; and to this day the Dara-miti Perahara (the procession of faggots) is held in the month called Nikini (the Month of Drought: July-August) reminding us of the time when perpetual night-fires burned beneath the holy tree to keep beasts of the forest from harming it.
In the early nineteenth century young Ralph Backhaus, an Assistant Collector (of government revenue) together with his friend, a Buddhist monk, mounted a modest expedition to seek the remains of the great city concerning which persistent rumours had long intrigued the British rulers. What he found, coming at the very time when archaeology throughout Europe was beginning to become a science, set off a surge of official interest, and in 1833, fittingly as it seemed to the Government, the site of the ancient holy capital was chosen to be seat of a sub-government agency such as Backhaus already occupied. One argument raised against the choice was, however, that the place had "no resident population As late as 850 its abandonment was still being suggested, though by 1873 it was designated the capital of a new (the North Central) province. Not until 1875, consequently, was serious
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archaeological work begun. In 1889 a Government Archaeologist was provided for, and the following year systematic work was begun by the untrained but indefatigable officer, H. C. P. Bell. To this day, a newly discovered and unidentified ruin, when it turns up in some jungle, is often described in the vernacular as a bal kalla, a “ Bell Fragment ”!
In the early years of Independence a movement was seriously set afoot to save the ancient city-from destruction (many of the ruins were being used, even by government departments, as quarries for building material) and from "desecration whatever that might imply-by building a New Town a couple of miles to the south. (As a result, you cannot get, save at the Tissa Wewa Rest-house, even a soft drink while you tour the ruins unless from a fly-blown wayside stall selling beverages of excellent flavour but doubtful purity: a fact it is useful to remember).
The New Town, begun in the 1950s, still has something of the air of a frontier settlement, and if you like that sort of feel you might visit the bazaar and the bus-stand.
Yet the simple truth is Anuradhapura is very much a place for the antiquarian, or at least the genuinely interested tourist. There are a few other uses you can make of it: it is a comfortable and not too inconvenient centre from which to make day trips into the Wilpattu National Park 26 miles away; it is an excellent centre for the bird-watcher of both water birds and birds of the dry-zone jungle; and in the drought you could look for wild elephant on the edge of Mahakanadarawa Tank (10 miles) where the MihintaleGalkulama road crosses it: look right, in the middle distance. There is an interesting Dry Zone Agricultural Research Station (13 miles) at Mahalluppallama; a vast number of agricultural "colonization' schemes, old and new, in every direction; and KalawewaLanka's most beautiful "tank' - 12 miles beyond the Maha illuppallama farm. And, of course, if you have not had your fill of antiquities, Mihintale (8 miles) the 'mountain carved into a temple is a "must '; the bronze bodhisatva of Veheragala is worth a much longer excursion ; and there is a neolithic graveyard of cists at Gurugalahinna near the 73rd mile on the Kahatagasdigiliya-Horowapotana road. But if ruins really get you down, go some other place.
Mihintale, or the plateau of Mahinda, a forest-clad mountain, l,000 feet above sea level, is sacred to Buddhists, because it was on its summit that a great bhikkhu, Mahinda, son of Emperor
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Asoka of India, introduced Buddhism to Lanka in the 3rd century B.C.
In ancient times the mountain was known as Mishrakakanda, set in the midst of thick forests stretching on every side around it. King Devanampiya Tissa, while on a hunting expedition on the Poson full moon day, came upon a deer in the glades, and true sportsman that he was, gave warning to the deer of his presence by twanging his bow string. The chase began, and moments later he was startled to hear a voice addressing him : "Tissa, Tissa." It was Mahinda who beckoned him thus,
King Devanampiya Tissa ventured respectfully to meet Mahinda, who introduced himself as a disciple of the Buddha and said he had come on a spiritual mission to Lanka with his followers.
Arahat Mahinda then engaged in a classic, Plato-like dialogue with King Tissa, and impressed by the perceptiveness of the king, delivered his discourse. The king was so inspired by the new doctrine that he, his queen and followers were converted to Buddhism.
On the first day Mahinda spent on the summit of Mihintale, a lay follower who accompanied him from India was accepted to the order. Many thousands of all ranks were thereafter established in the faith by Mahinda who arrived at Anuradhapura and preached his sermons there. Multitudes of devotees now make a pilgrimage on Poson full moon day to Mihintale, the cradle of Buddhism in Lanka. t
Climbing south-east, the summit is reached by a remarkable stairway made up of 1,840 granite slabs arranged in four flights. On the terrace stands Ambastala dagaba in which are enshrined the relics of Mahinda and which marks the spot where the historic discourse took place between him and King Devanampiya Tissa. The rock on which Mahinda stood and delivered his address is above. This dagaba is built in the vatadage style with a terrace round it and adorned with pillars.
From Ambastala dagaba, opposite the point of entry, a path takes the visitor down to a valley and to a steep rock wall. Well sheltered within, under a natural arch, can be seen a smooth flat slab of stone-Mahinda's bed.
There are several important ruins which add fascination to the place. Two inscribed stone tablets carry engravings of rules,
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in meticulous detail, in respect of the administration of the monastery.
Then there are the foundations and pillars of the Convocation Hall, at which both the lay and the Brotherhood gathered together publicly, presided over by the most senior monk, who took his place on the dais in the centre.
From the first flight of steps, a smaller set of steps takes the visitor to a plateau on the top of a hill. At this site are to be found cave abodes and the very well conserved Kantaka Chaitiya, 40 feet in height with a circumference of 425 feet at the base. Early Sinhalese art is represented in fine examples found in its vahalkadas.
Huge troughs of stone for storing water and the dyeing of robes can be seen, in the Alms Hall, the ruins of which are situated in the vicinity. K
The Maha Seya dagaba, occupying the summit of Mihintale, has enshrined in it a hair relic of the Buddha.
On the last flight of steps, half way up, if the visitor turns to the right, he will come upon the Naga Pokuna-Cobra Pond, the source of water supply to the monastery. The most impressive feature is a fine five-headed cobra carving in the rock at the back of the pond.
From the base of Mihintale hill, a short drive of about a quarter of a mile leads to the Kaludiya Pokuna-pool of dark waters-an enchanting place, once the abode of Arahats.
Magnificent, panoramic views can be enjoyed from any point on the eminence of the Mihintale rock. There are also other places of interest in and around Mihintale and Anuradhapura.
Stone Bridge-Anuradhapura : Many of the stone pillars, stone beams and large paving slabs of the stone bridge spanning the Malwatu oya, apparently used for elephants to cross, stil survive.
Approach to the site is along a cart track from near the Kuttampokuna (in Anuradhapura) to Pankuliya.
Stone Bridge-Mahakanadarawa : This bridge is 10 feet broad and about 5 feet above the Kanadara oya. Well-preserved stone posts and slabs can still be seen. It is of the 59th mile on the Mihintale-Kahatagasdigiliya road.
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Rasnakawewa Vihara: Paintings and nine statues are found in the vihara built inside a cave. There are a number of inscriptions on the rock. All round the hummock of rock on which the vihara stands are several drip-ledged caves, some with inscriptions.
The approach is about 3 miles on the Nikawewa road from the turn off at the 6th mile on the Kahatagasdigiliya-Horowapotana road.
Gurugalahinna: Near the culvert at the 73rd mile on the Kahatagasdigiliya-Horowapotana road are ancient burial cists prepared with slabs of stone in such a way as to form a boxlike compartment. Inside them are remains of bone and ash in pots. Covering the cists are stone slabs.
Galgirilena: A dagaba dug up by treasure-hunters on top of a small hillock. Several drip-ledged caves are found with paintings of the Kandy period. A five-foot fragment of a Buddha torso, minus legs, lies by a cave. The approach is 4 miles on the Talakolawewa road from the turn off between 60th and 61st miles on the Anuradhapura-Kahatagasdigiliya road.
Tirippane - Here is a dagaba in ruins on a rectangular platform. Close by is a 9-foot-high pillar with carved lotus and a five-hooded cobra carved on a rock near the pond. The site is about a mile south of Tirippane on the Anuradhapura-Maradankadawala road.
Veruppankulama Viharage : Roofed with slabs of stone and reared on pillars, the viharage has paintings about 200 years old. On the rock on which it stands is an ancient inscription.
The site is 3 miles on the Kirindegama road (turn off at first mile on the Anuradhapura-Sippukulama-Galenbindunuwewa road).
Andigala : Near a dagaba at Andigala dug up by vandals are the remains of a building with two concentric circlés of pillars. Inside is a stone asana. There are two flights of steps to ascend the rock at the summit of which is a large dagaba in ruin. There are inscriptions and the carving of a bust of a human figure on the west and south faces of the rock. To the site, turn off at Rajangana junction on the Anuradhapura-Galgamuwa road and proceed 6 miles on the Rajangana Colony road.
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Polonnaruwa: The repeated hammer-blows of invasion from' the Indian mainland that smashed the power of Anuradhapura served also to set up the city of Pulatthinagara-the modern Polonnaruwa-as its successor, but then again destroyed Polonnaruwa
in its turn.
The Cholas sacked Anuradhapura and established Polonnaruwa as capital in the llth Century. A brief Sinhala comeback was followed by a peaceful takeover by a Kalinga dynasty (from India's north-eastern coast) that had local connections. Finally Magha, a Kalinga marauder with no dynastic claim, wrecked the power of the capital. When he had been driven out two Sinhala kings tried unsuccessfully to restore the city as capital, but failed. Yet the city was to suffer a last invasion from India, this time a Pandyan one, before it finally settled into ruin.
Among the Sinhalese kings, chieftains and princes who resisted the Chola invasion and re-occupied Polonnaruwa were Vijayabahu (1055-0), who restored the Sinhalese throne and reconstituted the Sangha demoralised by Chola occupation; and Parakramabahu (153-86) singularly able and original, whose rule brought forth the mightiest edifices in Polonnaruwa. Nissankamala (187-96) left less monumental but in some ways more attractive and whimsical monuments; and King Magha (125-36), it is sad to relate, left no monuments but destroyed them! He not only brought to an end his own (the Kalinga) succession of rulers, but also Polon
naruwa's period of glory as the nation's capital.
Unlike Anuradhapura, where the ruins are widely scattered, Polonnaruwa concentrates its chief monuments in five easily accessible localities. Besides, with a single exception, each group belongs (more or less) to a single builder.
Inner-City Group: Just across the main road (Route A-II) from the rest-house rise the crumbled walls of the Inner City. In a separate enclosure on the southern (right hand) side are the ruins of Parakramabahu's Palace with its 10-foot thick walls in which the holes to receive the great beams which supported two upper storeys may easily be recognized, while tradition claims four more, probably all of wood-and beyond it his audience hall (note especially the stone carving, and particularly the frieze of elephants) and beyond that again, just outside the farther wall of the palace compound,
his royal bath.
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in an enclosure to the north of the palace commonly known as the quadrangle are several buildings from various periods: nearest the road is the Tuparama, the smallest of Polonnaruwa's gediges but the only one with its vault complete, almost certainly Parakramabahu’s. Behind the Tuparama is the fine Vatadage (circular relic house) probably dating from before Polonnaruwa's period as a capital, but with a lovely stone screen wall that is surely Nissankamalla's. The moonstone at the northern entrance to the uppermost terrace is the most perfect of the Polonnaruwa type, but should be contrasted carefully with the classic moonstones of Anuradhapura.
Nissankamalla's also is the Nissanka-lata-mandapaya, a pavilion with stone columns of tivanka (thrice bent) lotus stalks; the Hatadage-Nissankamalla's Temple of the Tooth; and alongside is his great inscribed slab (known as the Gal Pota, or Stone Book) Sri Lanka's longest stone inscription, which besides extolling the king and setting forth various edicts also informs us that the slab itself was brought all the way from Sagiriya (Mihintale) a distance of 60 miles.
To represent King Vijayabahu I at the quadrangle site there is only the temple he himself erected for the Tooth Relic, the so-called Atadage, which like the Hatadage was a building with an upper storey of woodwork now vanished; significantly, it is the only one of his buildings in the city: he had a palace at Anuradhapura, where he preferred to have himself crowned though it was from Polonnaruwa he reigned, but the only building grand |၀ပ္#{ to sucvive that he erected in the new capital was for the honour of the people's palladium, not for himself. Just below the raised quadrangle (between it and the Palace enclosure) is a small devale of beautifully fitted stone, whose domed brick roof has fallen in: Siva Devale No. in clearing which the famous Polonnaruwa bronzes were discovered, but it belongs to one of the latest periods of Polonnaruwa history when the South Indians-this time the Pandyanswere again briefly in occupation in the 13th Century.
To find a monument from the Chola period it is necessary to take the gravel road past the Pabulu Vehera of Parakramabahul (a typical Parakramabahu stupa of the truncated type) to where the road cuts the farther city wall: the devale-Siva Devale No. 2-a small building completely of stone is not only the oldest such building in the region but also is (by the Tamil inscriptions on its walls) the first positively datable building of Polonnaruwa's primacy as the capital city. Here, above any elsewhere, is the place for the student or amateur of archaeology to study the contrasting profiles of Sinhalese and Dravidian plinth mouldings.
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Rest-house Group: Even closer to the rest-house than the citadel, a few yards along the edge of the water, an unimpressive group of low ruins mark the palace complex of King Nissankamala. There is some irony in this for one of his many inscriptions states that he built himself a new palace because it was unfitting he should occupy a 'second hand" one! Now it is his that looks the worse for wear! The ruins nearest the rest-house are the royal baths; but the most interesting are those furthest from it: of the King's Council Chamber where each pillar still bears the name of the Minister of State whose seat was at its base, while the throne of the King himself was the great stone lion, now removed to the Colombo Museum. Between these are the ruins of the palace proper; and on a mound opposite, which becomes an island when the water is high, are the remains of a sumptuous Summer house, its walls still showing traces of the paintings which once adorned it.
. Southern Group: Only two items of real interest here (just over a mile along the bund from the rest-house) the remains of a vihara now called Potgul Vehera, the Library Shrine, of which the most striking ruin is of a hollow dome-agedige, in fact: being a vault corbelled inward from all sides instead of from two sides only as in other gediges-probably with the outside appearance of a stupa, and surrounded by four smaller (and solid) stupas in the familiar "quincunx' arrangement; and the famous Polonnaruwa statue. No one is sure whom the statue represents, though it is thought to be copied from life; similarly, the object in the statue's hand has not been identified, but a statuette found near Parakramabahu I's palace at Panduvasnuvara (near Hettipola in the North Western Province) holding what is clearly a rope, in exactly the same manner, suggests that the object is "the yoke of kingship' and the subject therefore a king, probably Parakramabahu I.
Alahana Parivena-Gal Vihara Group: The Alahana (Crematory) Parivena (College) was founded by Parakramabahu I and has its name from the cremation ground for royalty and the sangha that lay nearby. The small stupas that may still be seen scattered in the grounds are probably tombs. Three chief buildings of the monastic foundation are: the Lankatilaka image house, a mighty gedige whose side walls still stand 55 feet high and are decorated on the outside-like many other Polonnaruwa buildings-with architectural bas-reliefs that interestingly show what typical buildings of the period looked like when still unruined: a stupa, called Kiri (milk-white) Vehera whose lime plaster was still found perfect when it was freed from the jungle 700 years after Parakramabahu I's queen, Kalinga Subhadra Mahadevi, founded it (note here and at the Rankot Vehera, the typical Polonnaruwa development from the classical vahalkadas of the Anuradhapura stupas) and the Convocation Hall, where the abbot's formal seat is still to be seen.
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Just across the road north of the Kiri Vehera lies the Gal Vihara -actually, part of the Uttararama, or Northern Monastery, built by Parakramabahu I. Here are four fascinating statues-one in a partly artificial cave-all different and all of the Buddha. (It used to be believed that the standing figure was of the Buddha's disciple, Ananda, sorrowing over his departed Master; for (a) the pose of the standing statue was an unfamiliar one for the Buddha and (b) the recumbent statue over which the other stands is of the Buddha in parinibbana-i.e. not death, but ultimate withdrawal into the state of Nibbana which he had already attained with his Enlightenment-as shown by the slight drawing back of the upper foot. But it is clear, from marks in the rock, that the standing statue had a separate shrine-unthinkable if this was Ananda-and other representations of the Buddha in a similar pose (e.g. a painting in Dambulla Cave Temple) are now known to be not uncommon.
If these ruins be approached along the road lying just below and to the east of the quadrangle-in many ways the best way-Nissankamalla's Rankot Vehera, the biggest of the Polonnaruwa stupas, becomes clearly visible to the left about halfway between the quadrangle and the Alahana Parivena buildings. Note how rafts of lime mortar have been floated across the dome of the stupa at regular intervals-they are quite visible-to adjust the levels.
, Northern Group: Travelling westwards by the road separating the Alahana Parivena fom the Gal Vihara ruins and then taking the first turn to the right brings one to the ruins most distant from the rest-house. They are hardly a group; but, at least, they lie along the same route. First, to the right of the road comes the huge jungle-clad pile that was the Demala Maha Seya (so called because it was built by captives taken by Parakramabahu I on a South Indian campaign). Note the characteristic "truncated shape Parakramabahu favoured. Further on a short track to the left leads to the famous Lotus Bath, and beyond this turn-off again the road ends at the Tivanka Pilimage (also known as the Northern Temple) which, like the Gal Vihara and the Lotus Bath, once was part of the Uttararama Vihara complex. The Pilimage, or image House, was called Tivanka from the "thrice-bent' image within, a pose typical of the Polonnaruwa period, considered the standard pose for a female figure and (applied to the Buddha) perhaps emphasizing the lasya 'soft' humane aspect of the Master. Note the frieze of ganas (dwarfs), ėach in a delightful individual attitude and with an individually lively expression, that encircles the outside of the plinth upon which the building stands. The inside of the shrine is remarkable for its wall paintings, many of which probably date from the time (late 13th Century) when Parakramabahu II, one of the Dambadeniya kings, attempted to restore abandoned Polonnaruwa as the national capital: but earlier paintings lie below,
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and some of these have been revealed. Though faded, some of the paintings here are-considered from the point of view of draughtsmanship-perhaps the high point of Sinhalese Buddhist art.
Among other items of archaeological interest in Polonnaruwa District are:
Medirigiriya: The ancient Mandalagiri Vihara, is 14 miles to the north of Minneriya and the earliest reference to it is in the Mahavamsa, which records that Kaniththa Tissa (circa A.D. 164-192) caused an uposathaghara to be built at Mandalagiri Vihara. The vatadage was apparently begun by Aggabodhi IV (7th Century).
Access to the vatadage (built on a rock) is by way of a granite flight of steps and a lofty archway. The centre of the shrine is occupied by a stupa with a diameter of 26 feet at its base. Its dome, preserved to a height bf 5 feet, rises from a terrace with moulded profile faced with well-cut slabs of limestone. One of the four timestone Buddha images is intact.
The stupa is encompassed by three concentric circles of graceful octagonal stone pillars. Between the second and the outermost circles of stone pillars was a brick wall of which very little now remains. The innermost circle which is only ft. 9 ins, from the base of the stupa, consists of 16 pillars, all standing erect. The second circle which is 6 ft. 3 ins from the innermost one, contains 20 pillars, of which two are broken a few feet above the ground. The outermost circle which is 4 ft. 5 ins from the second has 32. pillars.
The most interesting feature of the vatadage is the stone screen wall, 3 ft. 6 ins. in height. It is ornamented with a post-and-rail design and the base is formed of a double lotus petal moulding which goes around the pillars too.
The floor of the interior of the shrine is paved with flags of granite, The circular terrace on which the vatadage stands is also paved with irregular granite slabs. A moonstone similar to that at the main flight of steps is found in front of the doorway.
Dimbulagala is a range of hills 10 miles south-east of Polonnaruwa and about 7 miles from Manampitiya. It is better known as Gunner's Quoin.
The ascent is trying and sometimes dangerous, but it is a truly picturesque spot to visit.
Ruins of various periods from 300 B.C. to 1,200 A.D. are scattered on the hillside.

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Brahmi inscriptions over drip-ledges of several caves prove the antiquity of the place. One inscription shows that the caves were prepared by Queen Sundari, wife of Vikramabahu son of Vijayabahu I of Polonnaruwa.
Near the very summit are a series of caves with white plastered walls known as Maravidya. Two of the caves are better preserved and contain paintings which once covered the whole plastered surface. W
On the summit and within the caves are two pools of clear water. In two other caves the paintings are in a bad state, but the bold outlines are clear.
Dimbulagala was a forest hermitage in mediaeval times and a centre of learning. There is still a hermitage and shrine there.
The site is also important as it was the residence of Dimbulagala Kasyapa Thera, mentioned in the Katikavata of Polonnaruwa.
Somavatiya is an ancient site where a stupa has recently been restored and excavations are still being undertaken.
Pulligoda: Three and half miles to the south of Dimbulagala are ancient paintings in a cave on a boulder. Two layers of plaster of clay and of lime have been applied on the rock face to prepare it for the painting, which depicts five gods seated on a beautifully embroidered scarf-four in the anjali mudra (making obeisance with palms together) and the fifth holds up a garland of flowers. Part of the painting, which probably belongs to the 12th century, has broken off.
Sigiriya-the Lion Rock. This enormous 600-foot high rock possibly received its name after it became the seat of an ancient Sinhalese king, probably from the huge couchant lion through whose throat one entered upon the final ascent.
According to this account, Sigiriya was the fortress of a fugitive king, who nevertheless reigned for 8 years. He committed suicide on the field of battle after his troops deserted him in an encounter with the army of his brother.
This older and melodramatic theory is based on the story told in the ancient Pali chronicle, the Culavamsa, and maintains that Sigiriya was the hide-out fortress of Kasyapal (Kassapa), who gained the throne of Lanka in 477 A.D. Kasyapa was the elder of the two sons of Dhatusena, the religieux who became king in 459 A.D. and reigned for 18 years. He was the founder of the Moriya dynasty.
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Kasyapa was born of a consort of lesser degree while his younger brother Moggallana was the son of the chief consort or queen.
The rightful heir, Moggallana, was prevented from claiming the throne owing to his brother being sponsored by the chief of the Army who had revolted against Dhatusena. The king was walled up alive by the Army chief on the orders of Kasyapa, who according to the Culavamsa betook himself through fear to Sihagiri which is difficult of ascent for human beings. He cleared the land round about, surrounded it with a wall and built a staircase in the form of a lion . . . then he built there a fine palace, worthy to behold.'
A more recent theory is that of Dr. S. Paranavitana, according to whom Kasyapa built Sigiriya "like another Alakamanda," the celestial abode of Kuvera, the god of wealth, in accordance with the description of Alakamanda in classical literature.
According to Paranavitana, Kasyapa was no fugitive, for his rival, Moggallana had fled to India for his own safety, having received no support.
The rock of Sigiriya was inaccessible when Kasyapa started to build on it. The work would have taken a large labour force several years to complete because of its immensity. Therefore, Kasyapa could not have occupied it till the work was over.
Moreover: "The Lion Staircase-House, which is the key to the palace on the summit of Sigiriya, is accessible over the natural,
though fairly steep, ground immediately below it, and the long,
narrow and tortuous gallery which led to it was a wholly unnecessary means of approach unless it possessed some symbolic significance: as a means of defence it was quite useless."
Kasyapa's reign lasted 18 years, eleven of which were from Sigiriya. This, would imply that the palace took seven years to build.
The long, rising gallery led up to the rock face which was shaped in the form of a lion of brick, visible for miles. The stairway to the palace on the summit rose from inside the body of the colossal tion. The rock was enclosed on three sides by a rampart with a protective moat. To the south-east was a tank.
About half way to the summit of the rock is one of the more famous of Sigiriya's many glories-the Mirror Wall. This still encloses the gallery which leads to the final terrace and is
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named after it's smooth, glistening surface; a durable glaze which, it is believed, was contrived of lime, egg whites and wild honey. It has withstood the elements for 5 centuries. This smooth wall proved an irresistible log-book on which visitors over a period of nearly six centuries recorded their reactions at the sight of the beautiful women painted on the rock-face above. These frescoes are similar in style to those of the contemporary Ajanta cave paintings in India. They are also believed to be the oldest examples of figure-painting in this Island.
Only 2 of these bewitching figures have survived to this day. They have been described as "cloud maidens' and "lightning princesses." Their sensual beauty is most striking. Some have golden complexions and some dark. They are graceful, be-jewelled and lotus-decked. Some are bare-bosomed while others are clad in diaphanous clothes.
Of the Sigiriya graffiti nearly 700 verses have been deciphered and published by Dr. Paranavitana, according to whom they are of great value in studying the development of the Sinhala script and language from the eighth to the tenth centuries.
The access to the summit now is by way of steep steps henw into the granite and metal stairways. Atop are the palace ruins, baths and stone seats. Most rewarding is the magnificent panorama the view point affords. To describe Sigiriya as a "fortress in the sky" is to tell only half the story. Its architectural, artistic and literary value is inestimable.
Piduragala: There is a despoiled dagaba at the foot of the hill of Piduragala, which is about a mile to the north of Sigiriya. The old image houses within a cave above the modern temple have now been renovated. Above the dripledge of this cave is an inscription and from this point to the summit is a flight of steps made of rubble. A long cave on the east side of the summit has been divided into three sections by walls. Near this cave is a 7th century rock inscription which refers to the donation of gold and of fields. In one image house in this cave is a large recumbent Buddha statue made of brick and stucco probably 10th century and on the wall of another image house is the drawing of a woman.
The dagaba has been found to mark the site of a cremation, and carbon-dating techniques place this, as having taken place jus about the traditional date of Kasyapa's death.
Hardly twenty miles west of Sigiriya, as the crow flies, is an image
of the Buddha-a colossus that must surely rank as one of the wonders of the world. Carved out of living rock, this almost free
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standing statue at Aukana reaches high and beautiful 39 feet above its lotus decorated plinth. It is interesting to observe that this plinth has been carved separately and placed under the feet of the image.
As you walk towards this 1,500-year-old statue, you are at first struck not so much by its beauty but by the immensity of the task undertaken by the unknown sculptor. The mind quails at the thought of the many millions of steps taken by this genius as he walked, back and forth from the statue, working out its proportions which are perfect from whichever point it is viewed.
The best time of the day to view this statue is at dawn. The first rays of the morning sun bring out the rich hues of the rock image and makes it seem to come alive against the deep-green of the trees beyond. As the sun rises higher it reveals the serenity of the exquisitely carved face: rising higher still, the sunlight picks out the gracefully carved robe, each pleat of which is a triumph of art.
Looking at the statue, from atop the ruins opposite, one gets the impression that the image is being viewed through the wrong end of a telescope as it now appears much smaller than you expectedit to be. is it the perfect proportions; or the deliberate, yet subtle, distortion of the proportions of this rock-hewn creation that makes it look almost a miniature and a perfect one at that?
it is thought that this statue was sculpted during the reign of King Dhatusena, the great tank builder, who was to die tragically at the hands of his demented son, Kasyapa. The appalling story is often related of how Kasyapa, lusting for his father's fabled treasures, had the great patriarch imprisoned and tortured. The king, realising his end was at hand, promised to reveal the whereabouts of his 'secret treasure' if he was allowed to bathe in his beloved. Kalavapi (today's Kalawewa) which he had built.
Stepping into the tank he immersed himself in the coolness of its depths and then lifting up a handful of its water cast it upon the breeze and said to his captors, "This here, my friends, is my whole wealth'. The enraged Kasyapa ordered his death and a horrible death it was, for the king was to be stripped naked, bound in chains, walled in and left to die in a living tomb.
And so was to end the eighteen-year reign of this great king who had battled invaders and been victorious; who had built eighteen viharas and eighteen tanks and who had watched the creation of the colossus of Aukana.
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To reach Aukana bear left at Kekirawa (on the DambullaAnuradhapura road) and left again 3 miles beyond. A little past Vijithapura, once an ancient capital, you drive on to the 3 milelong wind-swept bund of the Kalawewa. This tank and its twin the Balaluwewa are truly an awe-inspiring sight. Turn right at the spill and the colossus of Aukana is just two miles away.
Near seven weary miles away, as the crow continues to fly west, is the lesser colossus of Sasseruwa. Herein lies a delightful tale. These twin statues (Gog and Magog as the archaeologist Bell was to refer to them) were, it is said, the work of the guru and his golayathe master and his pupil. Legend speaks of a gigantic competition in the creation of the near-twin colossi of Aukana and Sasseruwa between the two sculptors. The accomplishment of either masterpiece was to be signalled by the ringing of a bell.
Master and pupil worked furiously and years later a bell clanged
decisively. Today, the Aukana colossus of the guru, stands completed and is the finer of the two. The unfinished Sasseruwa image broods over a lonely hermitage in the fastness of the vanni. jungle.
Carved in high relief, this image is far inferior in workmanship to that of Aukana. There is, however, a certain impressiveness in the near 39-foot figure set in a vast curtain of dark rock which towers above it for hundreds of feet.
Sasseruwa was in ancient times an extensive monastery but today only a few monks inhabit its caves. Many of the caves (there are over a hundred of them) have "brow' inscriptions dating as far back as the second century before the birth of Christ.
Sasseruwa is reached by fair-weather roads via KalawewaHammillewa-Negampaha or Galgamuwa-Ehetuwewa-Kuda Katnoruwa. The first route has the better surface save for the last few miles.
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CHAPTER 8
Trincomalee and the eastern seaboard
THE east coast of Sri Lanka is unique, differing from stretch to stretch along its 200 miles from Kokkilai in the north-east to Arugam Bay in the south-east. lt provides an atmosphere of charm that no other coast in the Island achieves.
it is a magnificent coast. A lonely coast. It offers superlative sea bathing when the west coast of the Island is lashed by the South West Monsoon. The only way to become aware of its charm is to experience it.
Prospective sea bathers should be issued with a few warnings. in rare instances, small skates and other species of Ray nestle in the Sandy shallows and can cause painful stings; and towards the end of July fleets of jelly fish-including the stinging Portuguese-Manof-War-Sometimes drift shorewards to be stranded on the beaches. As elsewhere in tropical seas, rocks under shallow water often harbour great colonies of prickly sea urchins. Look out for them.
Three areas of tourist development are planned for the region yet development will not rob it of its enchantment.
The northernmost area of development centres upon what was once the small fishing village of Nilaveli- some ten miles north of the town of Trincomalee. These sands are lovely and a bather can take his pick from many beaches for several miles up, the coast or down.
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The estuary of the Sinnakarachchi lagoon is a paradise for fishermen. To the south of the estuary, set in idyllic surroundings, is the Blue Lagoon Hotel. The spacious gardens of this hotel are on the border of the unbelievably blue waters of the lagoon. Sambur, monkey and decr roam the hotel's own little sanctuaries that are within this garden. Carts drawn by the long-horned and long-legged Kanniya bulls or the faster horses are there for you to traverse almost uncxplored countryside. Seafood-king Prawn in particular-is a speciality of this hotel.
Close to Nilaveli is Red Rocks beach, ideal not only for bathing, and family picnicking amongst its pink boulders and blue pools but also for fishing for koduwa, the Estuary Perch. Nilaveli beach itself is all one could wish for bathing or basking in the sun.
Ten miles to the north of Nilaveli lie the lovely beaches of Kuchchaveli, the waters of which the writer John Still delightedly described as "warm as tea." It is necessary to warn the prospective swimmer not to venture too near the headland by the rest-house, as the currents there are ynpredictable.
Just of Nilaveli beach ties Pigeon Island, one of the few places in Sri Lanka where the Blue Rock Pigeon, so common in South India, breeds. Much shot up while the British Navy held Trincomalee, the little rocky island, approachable only by boat, is now recovering somewhat as a breeding place. The waters around this island are a spear-fisherman's paradise.
Perhaps it is worthwhile remarking that the quaint old circuit bungalow close to Nilaveli with its verandahed upper storey set upon squat boulders derived the timber used in its construction from an old wrecked vessel of the days of sail. The renovated building is now an Archaeological Department circuit bungalow.
For those who seek wider interests and more to do than mere Soaking in salt water and sun, Nilaveli as a centre offers a wide choice.
At Kokkilai (30 miles-and three slow, vehicular ferriesnorth along the coast road) is a vast shallow lagoon, the whole of which constitutes a wild life sanctuary, paradise for bird watchers. The shallows here attract an astonishing variety of waders; wild duck and pelican are quite common; but the speciality of the place is flamingoes which are to be seen in numbers comparable nowhere else save at Bundala, far, far to the south. The scrub-covered shores of the lagoon-especially on the small peninsulas projecting into the water from the western shore-offer good cover for the
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shore-based watcher; but the marshy nature of the terrain renders approach difficult. A Fol boat or navigable rubber dinghy would be ideal.
A few miles south of Kokkilai lagoon, and 25 miles north of Nilaveli, is Pulmoddai, where one of the island's most successful industrial enterprises is situated. The Ilmenite Factory here is a source of valuable export, and a fascinating industrial process for the visitor to watch. Its attractions are increased by a very comfortable circuit bungalow. There are a number of caves about miles away from the ilmenite factory at Pulmoddai. In a pillared structure beyond is the torso of a Buddha statue. An interesting route by which to approach the place (especially for travellers to the east coast from Anuradhapura) is to turn left at Pankulam, near the 95th mile on Route A 2 (Anuradhapura-Trincomalee road) driving through Gomarankadawela, Adampane and Tiriyai.
Gomarankadawela, five miles of the Anuradhapura-Trincomalee road, has interesting but little-known springs: a cold spring at Nawal-ulpotha-a pleasant jungle walk of 2 miles each way-and hot and cold springs together at Rankihiriya-ulpotha, only a mile's walk further on.
At Tiriyai, there is a vatadage located on a hill to the west of the village. A flight of steps leads to the summit, which has been levelled to build a small dagaba on it. Later it was enlarged, and about the 8th century A.D., encircled by a vatadage. There are two concentric circles of pillars round the dagaba and at the edge of the dagaba platform is a stone screen wall about 6 feet high with holes at intervals for pillars. Other objects of interest are a pre-Christian inscription in a cave on the hill, an 8th century Sanskrit inscription on a boulder and remains of an image house.
Southwards of Kuchchaveli-visible from the northern shore of the ferry-stands the unmistakable profile of Pinnacle Rock, called Vilatti Malai in Tamil. Hugh Neville in Taprobanian suggests that this is one of the Island's most ancient places of worship and connects it interestingly with similar styles of worship in very far-flung places. Near the summit of the hill is an ancient cave hermitage dating back to very early Buddhist times. There is a Brahmi inscription on the brow of the cave; but here also, at a lower level, is a strange egg-shaped niche in the vertical rock, wonderfully smoothly-surfaced and not unlike a similar niche in the famous Hypogeum on the island of Malta.
At the foot of the hill runs a small river which is said to have the property of petrifying objects by coating them with a heavy
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deposit of calcium. It is certainly true that on the sand banks lining the stream petrified crab shells and similar objects, apparently turned into limestone, are often found.
A most convenient way to reach this out-of-the-ordinary site is to hire a vallam, an outriggerless dug-out canoe, from the fishing settlement at the Salappa Aru ferry. The journey-one way--is about 4 miles through fascinating mangrove swamp and heavy, bird-filled jungle,
Another object of archaeological interest, no less interesting in its way, and lying within much easier reach, is the famous but only recently conserved Velgam Vihara, a mere 4 miles from Nilaveli. Originally built in or about the 1st century A.D., it was one of the very few Buddhist shrines undamaged during the IIth Century invasion of Sri Lanka by the Hindu Cholas. The Cholas, instead, maintained it as a place of Buddhist worship and considerably enlarged and beautified it. A Chola inscription names it Rajarajapperumpalli (the name Velgam Vihara is from a 2nd Century. Sinhalese inscription) and some of the features of the present ruins, such as the platform mouldings are in the Hindu style. In one of the remains of an image house is a Buddha statue. The punkalas guardstones here are artistically noteworthy, seeming to have been drawn, in a single unbroken line (the modern Tamil name for the temple is Natanar Kovil). Modern Buddhists sometimes call it Wilgam Vihara, but this is really the name of Seruwawila Vihara, 20 miles to the south east.
The direct approach from Nilaveli to Velgam Vihara is past a picturesque irrigation tank, namely, Periyakulam. It is an ideal picnic spot (though bathing is not recommended) and at the foot of the bund is an impressive vertical boulder like the Menhirs of Western Europe, though it has never been suggested by any authority on the subject that this is in fact a Stone Age monument.
Beyond the site a road leads to the Trincomalee-Anuradhapura road and to the famous hot springs of Kanniyai, which can also be approached from Trincomalee. Kan niyai is about 7 miles out of Trincomalee on the Anuradhapura road. There are seven wells enclosed by a brick wall. Each of the seven wells has a little embankment as a protective wall, and the walls are all built of stone, some square and others of a circular form.
The walls and conduits by which the wells are enclosed were probably built by the Dutch, who believed in the therapeutic properties of the hot water springs. W
The spot is held in veneration by Hindus, and the devout perform certain rites here after the death of friends and relatives
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One of the earliest analyses of the water in these wells was done on July 4, 1798 by Dr. Thomas Christie, head of the Island's Medical Department. He found the water in the different wells registering temperatures ranging from 98° to 106.5 F. He also thought the wells communicated with one another because the water in them was at equal depth from the surface. Another dis. covery was that a body immersed in one well raised the height of the water in the other.
There is a popular belief that the waters of the Kanniyai hotwater springs, like the waters of the other hot-water springs in the Island, are an ideal panacea for rheumatism and cutaneous diseases.
We now come to Trincomalee reaching down south-about i0 miles from Nilaveli-a one-time ancient port in existence before the 6th Century, and one of the most interesting and beautiful places in Lanka.
Trincomalee, north of the great Koddiyar Bay, is indeed a magnificent natural harbour, occupying a strategic position in the Bay of Bengal. The waters contained at Trincomalee are many miles across and the harbour is sequestered into bays, nudging deeply into the land. A narrow projection of land, on which the civil town rests, protects the harbour in tranquility from the open Sea.
There is Cod Bay, Yard Cove Bay, China Bay and Sober islands. Far on the side of the larger Sober Island is the French Pass, a strait through which the French Fleet sailed to escape as the English naval force entered.
Sri Lanka's longest and largest river, draining the central hills, the Mahaveli, enters the sea at Mutur, south of the circular bay.
A little history concerning this strategic port. The Portuguese in 1624 constructed a fort here, but were ousted in 1639, by the Dutch who captured Trincomalee town. In 1782 the British drove away the Dutch, but the French Fleet, on behalf of the Dutch, re-captured Trincomalee the same year. This cross patch of military activities terminated when the British forces under Colonel Stuart, besieged the place and took over Trincomalee once again, and finally, as England's first territorial grip on Sri Lanka. Such were the allurements of this splendid natural harbour and relics such as Fort Frederick and Fort Ostenburg stand mute witness to these colonial forays of the past.
On the eastern precipice of Fort Frederick is Swami Rock, on which stands a famous Hindu shrine. On Fridays, especially
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in the evenings, special rituals and offerings are conducted, worth witnessing and an experience not to be missed. It is said that thousands of years BC an original, ancient shrine was set up here. Only some stones remain to remind one of it, as the Portuguese destroyed the building. An interesting aspect of the present Hindu kovil is an ancient phallus retrieved by an undersea explorer who had probed the waters into which the temple had tumbled down from its perch high up.
On Swami Rock is also found a pillar, erected, it is said, as a memorial to the daughter of a Dutch official-Francina Van Rhedewho flung herself into the sea from the escarpment, in despair, because of a lover who sailed away. The spot is popularly known as 'Lovers Leap'.
Looking out over the Dutch Bay is the hotel run by the Ceylon Hotels Corporation from where you get a splendid view of fishing boats putting out to sea early in the morning.
Near the main gate of the fort, a stone slab has been engraved and placed in the wall. A pair of fish, symbol of the South Indian Pandyan Kingdom, appears on it. An inscription is said to predict the conquering of Trincomalee by the "Franks', though eminent authorities aver that the Pandyan Kingdom ceased to be long before the Europeans started to eye the East.
Then there are the charming, grassy lawns of the Admiralty House, reaching down to the Inner Harbour. This building is situated on a small hill and on the grounds there is a gigantic Banyan tree which is said to be capable of sheltering 1,000 people. Admiralty House, with its whimsical cottage, has harboured famous people, including Jane Austen's younger brother, "problem Sir Charles, and the submariner of Victoria Cross fame, World War I, Dunbar-Nasmyth.
in the town of Trincomalee itself, apart from the breath-taking view of the sea over the esplanade, there is not much to see, other than an interesting Vishnu temple, one of the few found in Sri Lanka. Wellington House, in Fort Frederick, has a historical association. It was here that the fron Duke, of Waterloo fame, who had fought Tippu Sultan in South India, sojourned temporarily while the ship in which he was to leave sailed away - to be lost with all hands.
Trincomalee has one of the finest natural harbours in the world; its beauty is no second to its strategic importance.
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Trincomalee harbour, in some places, has depths too deep for anchorage. But splendid opportunities exist for swimming and trips by boats all over its expanse. Sober Island, among several others in the harbour, is a wonderful spot for a picnic, and other spots such as Dead Man's Cove, Marble Bay, Coral Cove and Back Bay are worth visiting.
The sea, the country and jungle that encompass Trincomalee, all contribute to a glowing experience of a tropical setting-humidityfree, invigorating and full of coastal charm and setting.
The whole coast road between Trincomalee and Arugam Bay, though necessarily a very slow one because of the five vehicular ferries to cross, is of the greatest interest and, where the road skirts the vast Koddiyar Bay, of considerable scenic beauty with glimpses of distant islands that seem to float insubstantially between the indivisible blues of sea and sky.
The water to the west of Kinniyai ferry is shallow. Thambalagam Bay, once the scene of a quite profitable industry of diving for 'window-pane' oysters, is wide and shallow as a dessert plate. The oysters, occasionally, by way of bonuses, also contain minute pearls.
if you are not tired of ferries and will cross one more-the one beyond Mutur-you will be rewarded with the sight of mudhopper fish on the sedges by the ferry banks and long brakes of
attan Cane.
Once across the ferry, it is worth while going the 8 miles or so out of your way to visit the highly picturesque lighthouse at Foul Point. If you are so fortunate as to obtain access to the top, the view is kaleidescopic-of bone-white sun, pink, grey and white rocks, grey-green jungle and peacock-coloured water.
With any four-wheel drive vehicle it is possible to take the sandy track to the very important and interesting temple of Seruwawila, or Wilgam Vihara-not to be confused with Velgam Vihara-with a little, restored dagaba that dates back to King Kavantissa. There are remains of ancient structures around the dagaba and also two caves. Two Buddha statues were found here. Alternatively, Seruwawila can be reached without any extra ferrycrossing by a turn-off to the left, a little less than 5 miles from the Fou! Point turn-off. The temple-on a good road-lies about 5 miles from this junction.
Between Seruwawila and the main road lies the great, ancient,
but newly restored Allai Tank. Another ferry must be crossed near the southern end of it.
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The next ferry crosses the Verugal Aru, originally an artificial canal, but now one of the mouths-the most turbulent of themof the Mahaveli river whose delta makes necessary all the ferries you have been hitherto crossing.
On the northern bank of the Verugal Aru, on the left of the road, is a small Hindu temple at which, an interesting annual festival is held some time in July-August. One feature of the festival is a Veddah perahera.
Near Kathiraveli, a few miles further south is an important graveyard of stone cists from Sri Lanka's neolithic past. It is about 3 miles from Kadiravelinear the 44th mile on the Trincomaleer Valaichchenai road. Each burial is covered with a slab of stone and in the middle of the site is a dolmen made of two upright stones about 3 feet high across which is laid a stone slab.
Six miles further to the south stands the attractively-sited but small rest-house of Vakarai, overlooking a lagoon, a sand bar and the sea, and out of the sea the sun rises "like thunder'. If for no nobler reason, Vakarai is worth stopping at for the fresh crabs that the rest-house serves.
The ferry at Panichchankeni (35 miles north of Batticaloa, and 45 miles south of Trincomalee) has been replaced by the Island's longest bridge. The sea coast hereabouts is worth exploring and the bathing wonderful-a small island within wading distance of the shore provides an unusual picnic spot, but the rocky pools surrounding it are full of sea urchins and, mirabile dictu, deadly poisonous sea snakes, which are so non-aggressive that they constitute by far the lesser danger. Pleasant holiday bungalows may be rented hereabouts.
Fifteen miles further south lies the important market centrea visit to the market should not be missed-of Valaichchenai. Perhaps Valaichchenai's greatest claim to present fame is its Paper Factory (there is a very comfortable circuit bungalow here) and there is also a slightly less comfortable but far more attractive circuit bungalow at Vakaneri, 6 miles west of the Paper Factory, gorgeously situated on a great rock sloping down to a large irrigation reservoir and looking over to the mighty stone wedges of Gunner's Quoin in the distance.
Three miles eastwards from Valaichchenai, lies the southern most of the east coast areas being specifically developed for tourists on the lovely beaches of Kalkudah. One of these beaches is that on which the present rest-house stands; and other, even more
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delightful, half a mile north of the rest-house, is on Passekudah bay where, in the South West Monsoon season, the water is crystal clear and lake-still and so safe that children may be let loose in it all day long.
From Kalkudah the road moves south-west away from the Kalkudah Bay and heads towards the Valaichchenai aru passing through acres and acres of coconut. Eight miles from Kalkudah is the turn off through Sittandikudi to the beach. Here, the sea is unrivalled for swimming and the skin diver may discover sea shells worth diving for, including rare species of cone. Some cones have the reputation of being able to sting very severely, but apparently those of Sri Lanka's east coast, under the east coast spell do not even do that.
Four miles away from the turn off is the junction of Chenkaladi, where if you turn right you wind up in the hill country. But keeping to the east coast road, you move past the vast Batticaloa lagoon and enter Madakalapuwa-Batticaloa.
That portion of the town that borders the lagoon has a beauty of its own, but the rest-house by the lagoon shore, offers certainly the best place from which to explore what tourist attractions there are. In a sense, the lagoon is chief of them; since it supplies excellent prawns-you may watch from the rest-house verandah the torch-bearing fishermen toiling for them on any night-even the occasional oyster, to say nothing of fresh fish. But the chief wonder of the lagoon is fish that sing.
There has been age-old controversy concerning the source of these sounds (like the tuning up of a string orchestra, with predominant basses) but none at all that they exist. The sounds are best heard from April to September; clearest on moonlight nights, waxing with the moon; and heard to best advantage with an ear placed against an oar thrust into the water from a boat in mid-lagoon. They can even be heard-traffic permitting-from Kalladi bridge to the north of the town. They have been explained variously as caused by fish and shellfish, of various species or as caused by tides rushing through empty mollusc shells or fretted rocks in the lagoon bed. Another theory is that they come from the Topsail Catfish (Tachysurus caelatus) which congregates in great schools in the lagoon during the appropriate periods.
Apart from the lagoon, there are a little Dutch fort just by the rest-house (the outer walls in good repair but the interior now a kachcheri) and a snake stone in the compound of the modern police barracks. Sri Lanka is not lacking in 'snake stones', small
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lumps of secret material which applicd to a bitten patient are believed by some mysterious alchemy to suck the poison-and the poison only-back through the fang punctures. But the Batticaloa Snake stone is not only a genuine stone but also a sizeable monolith: so large that the patient must be applied to it. Not mysteriously, it is now hardly ever called upon.
An aspect of the Batticaloa lagoon that must be particularly emphasised is the facilitics it offers for boating. If not the largest in area, it is certainly the longest navigable in the island, as well as being, in many reaches, wonderfully scenic-dominated for miles by the grim crag of Friar's Hood.
At least 25 miles of the distance from Batticaloa to Kamunai is navigable for quite large boats of up to 4 foot draught. Unfortunately, boats of any kind are not plentiful on the lagoon, but the possession of a canoe or Fol boat opens to the adventurous all the wealth of waterway that for beauty and variety owes little or nothing to such famous resorts as Norfolk Broads. For such adventurers, however, a small tent becomes a necessity.
Southward from Batticaloa the road is again specially scenic, offering again and again lovely views of the wind-still lagoon, backed by beckoning glimpses of the Uva hills. Two rest-houses along this stretch need to be mentioned: Kalmunai, not far back from the beach and Sinnamuhattuvaram, an exiguous caravanserai, but delightfully situated on a sand bar between the sea and another large lagoon.
The fair weather road to the right of mileposts 234 and 233 (you are now on route A 15) leads in about 6 miles to the famous and very ancient dagaba at Dighavapi. A medicine trough found at the site connects the remains with an ancient hospital.
At Akkaraipattu it is possible to make a worthwhile detour, via Sakamam, re-join the main road some 2 miles further, if enquiry at Akkaraipattu assures you that the causeway is passable. The rest of the road is motorable. The chief purpose of the detour would be the climbing-it is an easy climb of a couple of hundred feet-of the rock mountain called Mottayagala or Bald Mountain, from which a landscape opens-of sea, beach, lake, cultivated field, forest and mountain.
From shortly beyond the junction of the Sakamam detour, with route A 15, another turn off to the right leads to a most unusual tank, an altogether delightful place for picnics or camping, with the unlikely name of Rufus Kulam. It is interesting to realise
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that Rufus is a corruption of the name of the engineer by whom the tank was constructed, a man called Rutherford. " Rutherford' Kulam is a strange Gothic-like tank approached through rocky defiles, is forest girt and excessively picturesque. The 3-mile drive to it from the main road is more than worth doing, even if you are in a hurry.
The end of the east coast (for tourist purposes) lies at Arugam Bay, where there are circuit bungalows and a picturesquely situated rest-house by the sea. From here the motorable road runs miles further to Panama; and thence a jeep track takes you further still to Okanda, Kumana and eventually to the Ruhuna National Park crossing the Kumbukkan oya and the Menik ganga. This is one of the pilgrim routes to Kataragama.
Arugam Bay is a pleasant centre for minor excursions of many kinds : Lahugala (10 miles) has Magul Maha Vihara, one of the most interesting ruins in the island and around the August droughts is the haunt of large herds of elephant which seek the luscious beru grass pasture of its twin tanks-Mahawewa and Kitulana. Here, one sees the largest concentration of elephants in the island.
For the photographer, this is the place for photographing elephants, and for the biologist it holds untold opportunity for the study of these majestic giants. Feeding, mock fights and mating can be observed and even a thrilling "charge' may be experienced. Up to about a dozen elephants are seen regularly throughout the year and it is indeed a rare occasion when none is seen. As the first few wet months of the year go by and the dry season comes on, elephants in family groups of about a dozen or more amble in to form groups of 50 to 60. It is not unusual in the dry season to see a hundred. As the drought really sets in, their numbers increase till Lahugala can hold no more.
With the first showers of rain in mid-October, they wend their way back to their home range, allowing the vegetation to recover till their next annual pilgrimage.
The dry season also sometimes discloses the unexpected spectacle of an overland migration, from Mahawewa to Kitulana tanks, of a species of fish: the Climbing Perch (Anabas testudineus).
On an elevated site on the sea coast of Pottuvil is a dagaba in ruins-the Mudu Maha Vihara. To its west are remains of a pillared structure where there is the torso of a standing Buddha statue. South of this structure there are remains of another structure and to the north a pond. There are stumps of pillars
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and brick walls of the dagaba, The sand cowers much of the remains at the site.
The rest-house overlooks a glorious sweep of sea, with waves thundering on the deeply shelving beach. Bathing is most dangerous save near the fishing village of Kottakal 2 miles from Pottuvil which also offers ບໍ່ມີກທີ່ fishing during the North East Monsoon, Off its shores is a rocky islet where wild pigeons breed,
Close to Lahugala, about 7 miles from Pottuwil, is the ancient Magul Maha Wihara, Amldst a Jungle clearing is this ancient complex of a glorious civilisation that flourished in pre-Christian times,
At the entrance to this ancient domain is a monks' residence. On the eastern flank lies a crumbling dagaba. The four entrances are well preserved and each of the entrances is flanked on either side by seated lions of stone which are perched on the stone slab on the stone wall encircling the dagaba. The watadage, also well preserved, is in the shape of a fence of dressed but plain slabs. The entrance is flanked by a makara balustrade. There are two un ornamented Stellae in the foreground and a moonstone with a lotus petal motif at the entrance, where the floor is studded with an oval stone slab embodying clear inscriptions,
Close by is a Square-shaped stone pavilion-like enclosure, which consists of a stone railing wall ornamented with a frieze of ions. The four cardinal points are flanked by the makara balustrade. In the centre of this pavilion is a square-shaped pit paved with fragments of brick,
There is another four-sided pavilion with stone pillars in the middle. The four cardinal points are flanked by the makara balustrade and bhairava figures-one of which is partially broken.
Half a mile south of the Magul Maha Wihara are the remains
of a structure with dressed slabs of stone which has a circular ground plan and was said to be elephant stables. "ܨܒܕ
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CHAPTER 9
The Peninsula and Mannar
THE Magnetic North is how someone described that little peninsula called Jaffna at the northern tip of the mango-shaped island of Sri Lanka. This magnetism is no mere flight of poetic fancy. Despite the many attractions in other parts of the country that tempt the visitor to Sri Lanka, Jaffna offers an uniqueness that is hard to define and harder to resist.
Scenic beauty and places of interest Jaffna has in abundance. It has a relatively warmer climate than the rest of the Island, golden beaches and places of historical and religious interest. But people are important, too, for it is people who give character to a place. And Jaffna, a constantly fascinating land, has a character that has been touched but hardly changed by foreign influences, that has been moulded by the harsh climate, and by the protean Hindu religion, its mythology and legend.
It is not known exactly when the people who inhabit presentday Jaffna came there. Legend has it that a wandering minstrel blessed with extra-sensory perception came to Sri Lanka to get away from his shrewish wife. The king wanted to test his perception and he was so delighted with the results that he made a gift of this barren land to the minstrel. The rye, or yal, on which the
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minstrel played when replying to the king in verse, is today the symbol of Jaffna and the city itself has come to be called Yalpanam or Jaffna. So much for legend.
But there is recorded evidence to show that the Nagas, believed to be worshippers of the cobra, once inhabited this land. There is also archaeological evidence that the Sinhalese were there sometime. But there is no doubt that to her neighbour, India, the Jaffna Tamil owes much in terms of culture, a predominantly Hindu-Dravidian one, language and physical features-the result of Indian migration as well as invasions over the years. This homogeneity gives the Tamils of the region an affinity with the South indians, which is sometimes exploited by the politicians on either side of the Palk Strait. The ethnic difference of the Tamils plus a certain conservatism gives Jaffna an isolated look. It is against this background that one must view the people of Jaffna and the peninsula they live in.
It is at the isthmus of Elephant Pass that links Jaffna with the mainland that the peculiarity of Jaffna begins to show. One must not, however, forget the several islands, some inhabited others not, that lie around Jaffna. This peninsula covering an area of 999 square miles is the home of more than 700,000 people, the majority of them Tamils with a sprinkling of Sinhalese, Burghers and other communities.
Jaffna surrendered to the Dutch in 658. In 1796 the British captured it. It has been the principal town of the Island's Northern province since British times.
Today Jaffna is very unlike the barren land that the wandering minstrel inherited. The peninsula which has an average rainfall of 49 inches and a temperature of 8 F, is much developed and well served by road and rail. There are many visitors to her shores, those from the south coming on pilgrimage and vacation, and the foreigners to enjoy her many attractions. In Colombo one can board a plane and be in the peninsula in about an hour's time. The visitor lands at Palaly Airport and gets his first glimpse of rural, rustic Jaffna-agricultural settlements alternating with palmyrah groves and scrub jungle.
On the other hand, a journey by road with an overnight stop at Anuradhapura would introduce the visitor gradually to the difference that is Jaffna. But a journey by one of the day express trains is bound to give one a preview so to say, of what Jaffna is like even before the journey has well begun. For his travel companions will first shyly look at him from a distance, but before long will be asking numerous impertinent questions. They will
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also be ready to offer any help if occasion should arise. This inqulsitiveness is only the Jaffna man's way of showing a friendly interest. He sees nothing wrong in it nor would he hesitate to answer simillar questions asked of him.
The entry into Jaffna itself might come as a shock to one who has been told about the aridness of Jaffna. True there is a lot of scrub jungle and sand dunes, Manalkattu for instance, a miniscule desert of sand dunes reaching heights of 40 to 50 feet with a compelling beauty that glows in the sunset, and the limestone caverns at Sinna and Periya Mandapam extending for close on half a mile, showing glimpses of the limestone shelf on which Jaffna stands.
But this contrasts vividly with the numerous expanses of water, the lagoons, and the greenery all around, some of it natural and some the result of man's untiring effort-the large mahogany and thespesia trees that line the roads and give shelter to the weary traveller, the wildflowers brilliant in their flamboyant colours, and of course the neat agricultural plots of chillies, onions and tobacco, the Jaffna man's wealth, not to mention temperate crops like beet and
grape.
The soil is rich and red, a redness which covers the farmer and his clothing like a thin garment. Man here is industrious.
Water is the main problem, but the Jaffna man has overcome this by the introduction of water pumps that bring up the subterranean water from deep wells. In some remote parts one can still see men toiling away, walking up and down the long well-sweeps in rhythmic movements, while another empties the bucket of water into the channels that carry it to the crops.
There are tidal wells in Jaffna whose water level rises and falls twice a day, the water being sweet at the surface but salty at the bottom. The so-called bottomless well at Puttur is some 45 feet deep and legend has it that Rama, the hero of Ramayana, stopped here and plunged his arrow into the soil whence water came spurting out and he quenched his thirst from this spring that never dries.
Though agriculture is the mainstay of the peninsula, industry is today taking vast strides. There is the Cement Factory at KankeSanturai (its kilns lighting up the night-sky like a giant furnace) fed by the limestone in the region. There is the Chemical Factory at Paranthan and several new palmyrah-based industries.
Fishing is a major occupation of those who live along the coast. The outriggers and catamarans make a beautiful picture on the blue
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waters. Some of the fishermen are hardy and brave and venture out on the high seas in seemingly fragile vessels. The sea is mostly calm but now and then, ိုဇွို!, during the North East Monsoon (from October to December) it is rough. In fact, the simple folk of these areas distinguish between the "female Sea' such as the one at Myliddy which causes destruction (hell hath no fury like a woman scorned, perhaps) and the 'male sea' like the one at Kankesanturai or Urani, safe and placid.
But this does not mean that the beaches are not safe. There are long stretches of unspoilt, secluded beaches, ideal for sunbathing, swimming and water-skiing as well as sailing. Casuarina beach and Kalmunal point near Jaffna, Thondamannar and Senthankulam as well as Keerimalai are some such. The last-named is a place of religious pilgrimage and the fresh water springs on the beach at Keerimalai are said to contain healing water.
One of the oldest temples in the district is Maviddapuram Kandasamy temple, within walking distance of Keerimalai, which celebrates its festival in July-August. But a still more popular temple is the one at Nallur, which also has its festival about the same time. it is said to commemorate the arrival of King Bhuvaneka Bahu VI of Kotte (1470-1478), better known as Sapumal Kumaraya, who conquered the northern kingdom.
A Hindu religious festival has an atmosphere all its own. On one side some devotees with stripes of holy ash on their foreheads chant hymns, while the scent of jasmines mingle with that of incense. Some other devotees carrying kavadies perform various penances with hooks and spikes in their flesh. On another side there is carnival atmosphere with children and elders making merry. A merry-go-round, stalls with trinkets and handicrafts, provide variety. The last day of the festival is very colourful with the chariot procession. The chariot itself is a beautiful example of Hindu wood-carving.
Thaipongal, a harvest festival observed on January 14, is marked by the offering of milk rice by the farmer to the Sun God in propitiation for a good harvest. Cattle are honoured, too.
The Hindu is generally a vegetarian. The Jaffna man's diet though frugal is wholesome and tasty. Some of his specialities like thosai (gram-flour pancake) and vadai (made of roasted gram) are greatly appreciated by his southern brethren. And kool, a preparation of several kinds of vegetables and sea food, is wholesome and delicious. On Sundays meat-eaters seldom do without the delicacy of turtle flesh.
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The Jaffna mango has a peculiar sweetness. Palmyrah toddy is a brew that refreshes and intoxicates, depending of course on its state of fermentation. It is a treat to enjoy which, people make special trips in the hot months. Toddy is said to have a special flavour if drunk of palmyrah leaves in what is called a pila, right under the trees from which it was tapped.
There is also a table wine produced by the Trappist monks at Tholagatty. The silence of the monastery is disturbed only by the non-stop recital of the rosary by the monks.
Religion plays a big role in daily life and in birth, marriage and death. The Hindu marriage is a feast of colour: rich silks and flowerdecked hair-dos of the ladies, the bride adorned with jewels which form part of her dower (gold is considered a good investment by the Jaffna man) and the symbolism of the ritual adds to its fascination.
Jaffna is culturally rich. Its music and dance forms are similar to those of South India and mostly religious in content.
The land is steeped in history, too. The Archaeological Museum in Jaffna gives a glimpse into the time the Sinhalese inhabited the land. Some of the findings of excavations made at Kantharodai near Chunnakam date from pre-Christian times to about the 12th century AD. And the Dutch Fort covering an area of 55 acres and starshaped, stands a monument to the foreign invasions, its black coralline walls, ramparts and battlements standing high on the grasscovered mound surrounded by a moat-a beautiful setting and not a small contribution to the aesthetic beauty of the civic square of public buildings here. It is on a moon-lit night that the fort is seen at its best.
Inside the fort there is still plenty of activity-in the offices, prisons and quarters of the government officials as well as in the tennis club, still a focus of social life of the elite. The King's Pavilion is typical of Dutch architecture. Its enormous verandah has pillars of broad girth. The Groote Kerk (1706) is another example and on its floor are tombstones as old as 666, of Dutch dignitaries.
There are smaller forts, one by the lagoon at Elephant Pass and two at Kayts (including Fort Hammenhiel). The latter is on an island and is only accessible by boat. It is named "Heel-of-the-Ham' which the Dutch thought Lanka resembled. There are three large and inhabited islands accessible by causeways-Kayts, Karaitivu and Pungudutivu. The drive to Kayts in the evening is rewarding for the beautiful sunset it affords. The austere palmyrah palms stand silhouetted against the glorious sky. Kayts, according to legend, is
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said to be the place from which one of the three Magi came bearing gifts for the infant Jesus.
The Urundai Fort at Kayts, also named Fort Eyrie, is of Portuguese origin. There is now a naval base at Kayts to keep guard over the coast against smugglers and illegal immigrants. Though outwardly the Jaffna man secms a pacifist, there is still adventure in the blood of some of them. These fearless men at Valvettiturai engage in smuggling and some of their exploits rival that of bootleggers of the Cornish coast.
Other islands like Nagadipa, Kachchaitivu and Palaitivu are of religious significance. The first of these is said to have been hallowed by a visit of the Buddha; and the two others celebrate Catholic festivals to which people from India as well as the mainland of Sri Lanka come in their thousands.
At Pooneryn there is a well-preserved Dutch fort of antiquity. The structures within the Fort are also well preserved.
At Atchuveli, a considerable portion of the mission house of the Portuguese church is preserved. To reach the site turn north at the lith mile on the Jaffna-Valvettiturai road and proceed about | miles on the Atchuveli road.
The remains of a Portuguese church, originally with a roof with four gables and a picturesque belfry above the side entrance, are seen at Myliddy. To get to the site turn east at the Mallakam junction on the Jaffna-Kankesanturai road and proceed about 3 miles on the Myliddy road. Ad
Between the 3rd and 4th mille on the Point Pedro-Kudattanai road is a new Vishnu temple. Near this devale, at Vallipuram, is a mound with pieces of ancient tiles and brickbats on it. A Sinhala inscription of the 1st century A.D. written on a gold plate was found here.
A Portuguese church, still stands at Chankanai. Described as architecturally the only one of its kind in the island, it was constructed of coral in 64.
Sangilitoppu is in the bustling village of Nallur near Jaffna town and was the residence of the kings of Jaffna. The palace at the site was later occupied by the Portuguese and an ornamental entrance arch, built in Portuguese tradition, still remains.
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Delft is an island about 20 miles south-west of the Jaffna Peninsula. Of the chain of islands there, Delft is the outermost inhabited place.
One embarks on the journey to the island from Kurikattuwan, the southern tip of Pungudutivu. Delft is about seven miles from here. There are three regular daily ferry services-at 9 a.m., 2 noon and 3 p.m. Approaching Delft one notices its landing pier situated in a sheltered cove, built with pieces of coral rock to form an artificial breakwater.
The pleasant Delft season is late July-August when the roughest weather has generally spent itself, but there is still enough of it to give you a thrill and there is breeze enough to cool the island to quite bearable temperatures. January and February are cooler still, but January may be wet.
The place to stay is the madam or circuit bungalow-you can book the sparsely-furnished house in advance through the Government Agent, Jaffna. Water is scarce on the isle during the dry months of the year. The pipe-borne water is restricted to an hour's flow during certain times of the year. The bungalow provides only accommodation. Provisions and linen have to be taken by the visitor.
The island of Delft has one bus, one jeep and one tractor. The other means of transport is by bullock cart. The northern and inland areas of the west of the isle are populated, the rest consists of low shrub jungle and grass plains.
It is on these wind-blown, sun-drenched, flat grassy plains that wild ponies roam. There are ample grazing grounds during the rainy season from October to May, and dry grass during the drought. Delft ponies, run wild but are privately owned, lassoed and branded by the owners. They come from a breeding stock maintained from Dutch, and possibly Portuguese times.
The shore line of this island is unique in that coral rock stands out on the beach and out at sea above the water, having peculiar and fantastic formations. The beach is clean, and the waters are placid and shallow. This is an unspoiled area, where the cries of sea birds, neighing of ponies, mooing of cattle, bleating of goats, the boom of the surf and the gentle whisper of the wind could all be heard. -
There is much to see besides the ponies-fascinating curiosities like the old-world castle built by the Portuguese, and its little pigeon
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house with a stone cote for carrier pigeons. The remains are about a mile and a half west of the madam.
There are also the earlier ruins of a dagaba, now known as Vediresan Kovil; an ancient system of wells and watering troughs for ponies at Sarapiddi, where the best water in the island comes from; the Quindah, an ancient navigation mark, a tower on a romantically wild stretch of coast on the east of the island.
There is a particularly fine banyan tree and a fine specimen of a baobab tree, with a gaping cavity in its trunk that could accommodate two men standing abreast. The landscape is full of a bleak and bitter beauty such as you will find nowhere else in Sri Lanka.
There is excellent sea bathing 300 yards west of the Portuguese castle. There is partridge shooting to be had. Fishing is excellent, if you are willing to take a trip in a hired catamaran-a sort of raft of five logs. v,
Other interesting features of the isle are its amphibians, of which a species of frog hibernates underground by the lagoon shore during the dry months. Then there are its reptiles, the venomous viper Echis carinata and the harmless 'sand boa." As for bird life there are grey partridge, curlew, plover, ring dove, Indian courser, great stone plover, reef heron, lapwings, egrets and the usual garden birds.
The chief occupation of the inhabitants is fishing, and fish, big and small, are found throughout the year. You can buy in Delft the best palmyrah toddy in Sri Lanka.
Mannar District: Located in the north-west of the island, the district of Mannar looks arid and is arid, but only in the geographic sense of the word, for it is rich in myth, legend and history. The area was fertile enough to claim the legendary distinction of having been the spot where Prince Vijaya, father of the Sinhala race, came ashore. It was here, too, that Hanuman, the Monkey God, crossed over in legend from India to Sri Lanka, in search of Sita then held captive by Ravana.
As if this were not enough, the area also boasts of a picturesque Muslim shrine which, to accept legend, marks the spot where lie buried not only Adam but also his better half, Eve.
Historically the district of Mannar certainly can claim to have had
one of the earliest ports of Sri Lanka. Then called Mahatittha and now called Mantai, it was a port wel patronised in its time, lying
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as it did strategically along an old-world trade route. Being the closest landfall between the sub-continent of India and this country, there can be no doubt that it was also used as a point of entry by mercenaries as well as invaders. This may explain the presence of an interesting ethnic group in the little village called Pallimunal, a village within the town limits of Mannar and hugging the Spit of land which juts into the sea.
Mannar, on an island connected to the mainland of Sri Lanka by a bridge and causeway two miles in length, is the principal town in the district. The most striking feature of the town is the fort, built by the Portuguese, and in a remarkable state of preservation.
The whole region is notable for two types of trees; the Umbrella Thorn (Accacia planifrons) and the huge Baobab, also called the "Bottle Tree', a native of the arid parts of Africa and Madagascar, doubtless brought into the country by Arab traders centuries ago.
”The Baobab is, to say the least, a strange-looking tree which can truly be said to have lost its sense of proportion. Having a short, stubby trunk of enormous girth, it is the rule rather than the exception to see a tree 40 feet tall having a trunk just as big or even bigger. The outsize trunk is capped with a small crown of spindly root-like branches, almost bare and sticking plaintively up in the air. In truth, the tree is a veritable life-saver. The tree's grotesque girth makes it a precious reservoir of hard-to-find water. The village of Pallimunai has probably the biggest known Baobab tree in the island, with a girth of 62 feet.
The Baobab bears small edible fruits; the leaves, too, can be eaten and elephants make a meal of it.
Radio-carbon dating techniques have recently proved that the Baobab tree is now the longest-lived species on earth. Tests carried out on wood from the core of a Baobab tree 5 feet in diameter in the Kariba Dam area, showed it to be around 1,000 years old. ܗܝ
To the visitor interested in bird-watching, the Mannar district will prove fascinating. On the road from Colombo, and 2 miles from Mannar, is the bird sanctuary of Giant's Tank which abounds in scrub birds and shore birds, including Stone Plover and Partridges. Also to be found are storks of many kinds.
Many water birds roost and nest on the island in Giant's Tank (behind the irrigation Department office) which is the sanctuary proper. The commonest birds are Egrets, Spoonbills, Herons, Ibis, Painted Stork, Pelicans and Cormorants. Other birds found in the area are Water Rail, Bittern, Pied-crested Cuckoo, Shrikes (black
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rumped, wood) Kites, Grey Partridge, Pigeon (Green Pompadour and Imperial), Ash Dove, Ring 6. Bulbuls (Red-vented), Mynah, Parakeet, Black Drongo and, at the height of the north-east monsoon (November-December), migrant birds such as the Pintail Duck, Yellow and Indian Wagtail, European Kestrel, Snipe, Golden Plover, White-Shafted Terns and Flamingo.
Nineteen miles from Mannar town, going west, the road leads to a finger-like strip of land (probably the most arid region in the whole country) with long groves of palmyrah palms, sandy wastes and shrub jungle. At the tip of this strip is Talaimannar Pier (Mannar Head, literally, in the Tamil language) where a ferry boat calls twice a week carrying passengers across to Dhanuskodi in South India. Access to the pier is controlled by the immigration Department.
The town of Talaimannar itself is a mile to the south of the pier and is served by both train and bus. " Not far away, along the coast to the west is South Point with its disused lighthouse where a chain of reefs and islets called Adam's Bridge begins. It was this Bridge, legend has it, which Hanuman used to cross over from India in his search for Sita.
About a mile to the west of Mantaijunction near the 6th milepost on the Mannar-Poonryn road is the ancient Hindu temple, Thiruketheswaram.
Of great religious interest to the Roman Catholics of the island is the jungle shrine at Madhu, to the east of Mannar, which attracts thousands of devotees all round the year. A major festival, however, is held in August, and is attended by over 100,000 people, most of whom camp out around the shrine during the weeklong festival.
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CHAPTER IO
Thanayama
TO the tourist above the primary eonsideration of the comfort and convenience of starred hotels or officially-recommended guest-houses (or below such considerations, for financial reasons; or who disregards them, out of sheer enthusiasm or sheer bravado) there are three classes of accommodation in the Island he might exploit with profit. REST-HOUSES-originally Dutch institutions intended as the headquarters of a revenue district and affording shelter for visiting officials, were developed by the British into wayside inns for travellers of all sorts. In the "planting' districts they did duty as a sort of Country Club-and are maintained by various State or State-controlled authorities still more or less in the public interest. They vary from very comfortable to not-so-restful and ill-equipped, but nearly all share a common distinction: they are generally excellently sited.
Technically, rest-houses supply meals and linen. But in the majority it is tempting providence to hope for a meal without due notice and foolhardy to count on spotless napery or un-ragged bed linen.
CIRCUIT BUNGALOWS are not dissimilar but are primarily for the official use of the various government departments and Corporations to which they belong. Permission to occupy them is usually available to private individuals in exchange for a nominal
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and official-fee. Circuit Bungalows, however, supply no meals and no linen, though there is generally a bungalow keeper who can' rustle up a meal (whose catability varies as the importance of the bungalow) from provisions which the visitor must supply. Generally speaking, the larger corporation bungalows and the Irrigation Department bungalows are fairly safe bets.
Finally, there aro several privately-owned HOLIDAY BUNGALOWS-vastly varied in attractiveness and facilities-concerning which the tourist on a ಟ್ಗ or the tourist who prefers running his own show would do well to enquire.
All the Rest-Houses, and Circuit Bungalows we mention below for their interest as an individual tourist's headquarters; we venture nothing as to their desirability as a home from home W
Ambalangoda RH (South-west Coast)—Colombo 53 mis. Galle 9 ms. , w
Within easy reach (8 mls.: buses and trains) of Hikkaduwa's coral gardens, and not far (12 mls.: likewise, buses and trains) of Bentota's water sports. For the hiker, interesting countrified lanes, for the canoeist even more interesting backwaters-but smelling strongly of HS from coconut husks being soaked to be retted for fibre–wander through a peacefully picturesque hinterland. Elpitiya (1 mls. buses) is a centre for the natural-rubber industry. At Meetiyagoda (4 mls. buses) is a moonstone mine, one of only two in Sri Lanka.
Ambalangoda itself is an important fisheries centre. The anthropologist, will find no better region in which to study (or merely observe) the exorcistic "Devil Dances' of the Island; and it is the home of the Sinhala masque called kolam. Mask-carving is consequently still a lively Ambalangoda tradition.
The rest-house backs the beach; but the rock pool which offered safe bathing even in the South West Monsoon is largely silted up. The rest-house garage was a Dutch chapel.
Arippu CB (North-west Coast) Colombo 196 mls. Anuradhapura 69 mls., Mannar 29 rhls. . .
The bungalow is virtually disused, but may be camped in in good weather. Its chief interest is that it was converted by the early British Governor, North, for officers supervising the Mannar Pearl Fisheries, from the Dutch fort to which Robert Knox escaped in 1679 after his 20-year captivity under a Sinhalese king. Part of
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the fort still stands. . Governor North's beautiful mansion, "The Doric', which he built for his own supervision of the Fisheries lies in almost total ruin on a low sea-cliff half a mile to the south: it is now locally ascribed to a legendary Queen of the Mahabarata !
Arippu is notable for its scrub birds, especially swarms of Golden Plover. The bungalow harbours a colony of vampire bats: harmless, but a genuine vampire species.
The famed paars, or Pearl Banks, lie to the north-west. The village of Silavatturai lying south of Arippu (4 mis. buses) is now a large centre for a more prosaic kind of fishery-these seas are astonishingly rich-but its very name denotes it a port for the more glamorous industry. Indeed, all this coast recalls it. Leonard. Woolf in his autobiography describes the activity at Marichchukaddi, ten miles further south yet. And in a low light the long shore still glitters with ancient shards of mother-of-pearl.
Avissawella RH (Kelani Valley)-Colombo 30 mls., Ratnapura 26 mls.
For any who would explore the legends and history of Sitawaka there could be no better on-the-spot base. The legends are concerned with the princess Sita of the Ramayana epic; the history with the Sitawaka kings. The kings, however, were renegades (to Hinduism) from the Buddhist faith and hence receive scant notice from the orthodox Mahavamsa chronicle.
The ancient site of Sitawaka is set, as its name implies, in a bend of the Sitawaka River. As the site of the Royal Palace and of a Subsequent Portuguese and, later, Dutch fort, the place is fully , worth an enthusiast's exploration. A few yards left of the Taldua Road, beyond MP I, is a simple stone marking the grave of King Rajasinha: humble though it is, the one indisputably marked burial site of a Sinhalese monarch. Even closer in, just beyond the bridge on the Ginigathena road, is a path to the right which leads to the Hindu temple-Berendi Kovil-which Rajasinha was still building when he died: an outstanding ruin in beautifully dressed stone.
Belihui Oya RH (Foothills, southern scarp; el. I,871 ft.)- Colombo 10 mls., Ratnapura 37 mls., Bandarawela 26 mls.
Delightfully situated by a stream tumbling cold from the Horton Plains 5,000 ft. above. A special rock bathing pool is reserved for rest-house visitors.
A 12-mile bridle path (2 mls. + motorable) leads past World's End, one of the most magnificent outlooks in the island, to Horton
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Plains' Farr Inn. From a little beyond Kalupahana (9 mls. buses) the road to West Haputale Estate brings one in a walk of something over a mile within vicw of the Bambara Kanda Falls, Sri Lanka's highest (790 ft.). An interesting but long and strenuous hike, of which only a few miles are motorable, brings one to the headreaches of the Uda Walawe.
Bogawantalawa RH (Up-country; el. 4,200 ft.)-Colombo 90 mls,
A typical planters' bazaar, in gorgeous mountain country and within hiking distance of the Horton Plains, BogawantalawaBogo, for short-has at least two attractions: in S. Mary's Churchyard lies buried Julia Margaret Cameron, one of the world pioneers of the photographic art; and from the Upper Division of Robgill Estate-obtain permission (and a small car) to use the alpine road-is an astonishing view of three great artificial lakes against a mountain backdrop that culminates in Adam's Peak (20 mls. away by road.) The Bopatalawa Stud Farm (2 mls.) could well interest some visitorS. -
Bulutota CB (Up-country; el. 3,500 ft.)--Colombo 94 mils., Ratnapura 37 mls, Galle 74 mls.
The Bulutota Pass, climbing upward in 10 hairpin bends from Rakwana (1 mls. buses) presents a magical change of view: before the summit, mainly to the north the Tanjantenna Plateau backed by the Sleeping Warrior ranges and queened over by Adam's Peak; once through the summit cutting, and the view looks southward over the jungle plains towards Kataragama, Hambantota and the silver-flashing sea. The circuit bungalow commands much of both views.
immediately above the bungalow and some 1,500 ft. above it lie the Handapan Ella Plains (surrounded by the virgin Sinharaja rainforest) perhaps the most sequestered portion of the whole Island and accessible only by a strenuous, pathless scramble.
Not far away, at Panamure stands Maduwanwela's walauva (manor): all that remains of the manor of one of the last of the old style Kandyan chieftains. But what remains is fascinating (as are the legends grown around him though no more than forty years grown! He was a legend in his lifetime.)
Chilaw RH (West Coast)-Colombo 50 mls.
Set in a bleak compound on a sandbar between a lagoon and the sea Chilaw Rest-house is nevertheless a pleasant and peaceful place.
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whose speciality is seafood. The bridge leading to it over the lagoon is an unrivalled vantage point from which to observe the activities of the fishing community from which the town is sprung.
Little more than a mile along the sandbar-a delightful evening's walk along a made road-is Waters meet: a deservedly favourite picnic spot where the Deduru Oya meets the sea. But bathing here can be dangerous. One and a half miles from town at Munneswaram, one of the five isvarams of the Hindu world, is a temple annually (July/August) the scene of a fascinatingly colourful festival and fair; and this is followed by a festival in the highly interesting karava village of Udappu in which the entire population partakes in the weird ceremony of fire-walking (or Treading of the Flowers). At Madampe (8 mls. buses) is an interesting devale dedicated to a deified 15th century ruler of the region.
Canoeists have here one of the most varied and extensive stretches of easy Sri Lanka water, reaching by canal, river, backwater and lagoon for some 60 miles: from lunuwila south of Chilaw. to north of Kalpitiya on the vast Puttalam lagoon.
West of Chilaw is Panduvasnuvara, where among other remains, a historic citadel and the ruins of a palace are found. It was the site of the capital of a principality of ancient Lanka, in the twelfth century. Nearby is a tank, Pandavava, which has been abandoned, indicating the existence of a tank-city complex typical of the activities and life flourishing here long ago. The palace was built by King Parakramabahu I when he was still ruler of the single prinçipality of Dakkhina Desa.
A Malay hunting for treasure at the site provoked the authorities to sit up and take serious notice. Reports were published. in 1931 the area was declared an archaeological reserve and in 1947 excavations were undertaken.
There is only one gateway, overlaid with bricks. The walls of the citadel are 40 feet thick surrounding an inner area of a square 352 yards by 330, which has been so constructed as to lead in a sheet of water at one point to form a pond within the palace Premises and lotuses are now grown in it, redolent of the days of old. The western, southern and a part of the eastern walls have been excavated.
One intriguing discovery was a little metal statue with a rope in its hands, bearing a remarkable resemblance to the gigantic figure, said to be that of Parakramabahu I, close to Potgul Vihara at Polonnaruwa whose hands hold some unidentified object believed to represent the "yoke of kingship'.
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The courtyard of the palace is enclosed by galleries and a central structure, reached by stone steps, to the left of which can be seen a stone seat or asana. The inscription on it states that King Nissanka Malla occupied this seat to witness pageants.
We move on into the audience hall. Remains of Stone bases - indicate that pillars of wood adorned this hall once, and there is a dais upon which the king and queen probably sat. Several smaller halls leading on, with chambers on the side, complete the picture. The င်္ခါဝိဂံhi၆: had been partitioned to provide
OOS
More than 50 wooden pillars, with beams and other structures in the halls, embedded in stone and masonry provided crisscross supports for the main ;"|} structure of the palace, and the large quantities of iron nails found in the place-some of them two feet in length-indicate that beams of massive girth must have been used.
in a corner is a water closet, provided with a channel made of stone to drain of the water into a pit seven feet in depth.
Close to the palace another interesting discovery was made, that of a structure enclosing two courtyards with sunken floor levels. They were probably dual baths, as an outlet for flow of water has been provided, a receptacle for holding water, and a foot-stone.
in the vicinity of the citadel, outside, there will be found an ancient dagaba and pilimage (image-house). The foundation rings of this ancient dagaba are still intact, while the shrine (pilimage) with stone pillars, inner chamber and lotus pedestal, stands opposite. A hoard of ancient coins was discovered here.
Another heap of temple ruins and the remains of a dagaba are found just a little beyond. A moonstone slab with lotus petal motif is an interesting object. The royal edict recording grants of edifices for religious purposes, inscribed in Tamil on a slab, can be seen close to this dagaba.
Moving ahead, one comes upon a modern Buddhist temple or pansala. Close by are very ancient stone pillars, suggesting the existence of a hall.
A most interesting location is a circular earthwork mound,
a rampart, sited in a shady grove of trees. Within this rampart are the ruins of a building. Evidence supports the theory.
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that a miniature universe is represented here, where King Parakramabahu was installed in the centre as Lord of the Universe.
Other interesting remains are that of a structure, probably an ancient pilimage, outside the circular rampart, and a mound covered by vegetation, known as Kota Vehera. It is graced with a relic chamber different from the usual characteristic type, and in which Buddha images modelled out of gold sheets were discovered, some of which are on display in the Colombo Museum.
Panduvasnuvara is 63 miles from Colombo and about 23 miles from Chilaw on the Wariyapola road.
Ella RH (Up-country; el. 3,320)-Colombo 34 ms., Bandarawela 7 mls.
For the landscape-lover-and the spelaeologist-there are few places to equal Ella. The view from the rest-house, down a precipitous ravine and over miles of distant jungle grey to the shining line of the sea is, to say the least of it, superb. A 3-mile walk (you could catch a bus for the steep climb back) will take you to one of Sri Lanka's wildest-looking waterfalls, Ravana Ella Falls. A drive or a bus ride, in almost any direction cannot fail to be scenically a delight. As for the cave-lover, the huge crag towering in front of the resthouse hides the famous cave where not only (according to legend) did the demon villain Ravana of the Ramayana hide the hapless Sita captive but also (according to the Sinhala palaeontologist Deraniyagala) sheltered Sri Lanka's early man, Homo Sapiens Balangodensis. The cave has not been explored beyond the lake that fills it only a short way from the entrance. At stripura (25 mls.: buses) north of Welimada are a series of caverns, also only very slightly explored, that are said to provide the longest underground galleries in the Island. Near these caves are the ruins of Fort Macdonald of Uva Rebellion fame. For a man-made wonder it is worth making the trip by bus or train (6 mls.) to Demodara to see the Demodara loop, where the railway encircles a hill to double completely back on itself through a tunnel 100-feet beneath Demodara station. (Incidentally, railway buffs, watch from the resthouse garden for the fine sight of a 50-year-old Garrett Banking Engine, converted now to oil burning, still making child's play of the heavy up-country inclines.) ヘ
Galgamuwa RH (Vanni Tank Country)-Colombo 99 mls., Kurunegala 40 mls., Anuradhapura 28 mls. V
For the antiquarian or archaeologist, Galgamuwa is so convenient a centre that he would probably approve it even were the rest
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house not so prettily sited overlooking a "tank' from which glitter the reflected lights of the town on its further shore.
Many important archaeological sites lie within 15 mls. Merely to list the more important of them, from north to south and west to
east: Rajangane Monastery: 6th C. onward, includes vatadage
(9 mls. buses) Sa', scruwa Monastery: 1st C. BC onward includes colossal ;þဖွံဖြိုးht Buddha (infrequent buses to Kuda Katnoruwa, 14 mls., + 2 mss. on foot) Torawa Mailewa Monastery: 2nd C. BC onward (buses to Maha Nanneriya, 8 mls., -- 3 mls. on foot) Nilakgama Bodhighara: 8th C., unique of its kind, elegant stonework (buses to Gallewa, 6 mls., + 3 mls. on foot) Binpokuna vihara: 2nd C. (buses to Dematewa, 4 mls., -i- i ml. on foot) Devagiri vihara: 2nd C., very picturesque (buses to Dematewa, 4 mls. -- I mls on foot) Nakolagane: possibly part of a 2nd C. BC nunnery (1 mls. buses) Galgiriyawa: 2nd C. BC or earlier; suggested as the probable true site of the Vessagiriya Monastery founded by King Devanampiya Tissa (3rd C. BC). Only the modern names of these ancient sites have been here mentioned; all are mentioned, by ancient names, in the Mahavamsa.
The village of Maha Galgamuwa, the original village, is interesting also from another point of view. An enclave of Tamil-speaking Roman Catholics, said to be Mukkuvars from the Puttalam coast, is found here. The church is well worth visiting if only for the very strong Hindu influences discernible in, for instance, the images.
Hangu ranketa RH ( Central foothills; el... - 2,415 ft. )— Colombo 90 mls., Kandy 7 mls.
Situated on one of the most scenic drives from Kandy (routes B39/B40) which discloses in turn the 4-mile roadside stretch of the Haragama Rapids, the lovely Maturata Valley and the even more lovely Great Valley (the Vale of Dumbara from its lesser-known aspect) the rest-house is also a convenient stopping-place for those who visit the famous Kandyan Potgul Maliga Vihara with its 'debased' but floridly gorgeous moonstone, its unusual inside-out enclosed stupa (the chamber walls bear such paintings as usually decorate the relic chamber sealed within the stupa itself) one of the Island's largest and best-arranged libraries of ola books, and a fascinating lamp room furnished with brass panas (open-wick lamps) of many kinds. The vihara is more than worth a visit, and the rest-house provides a break in a leisurely excursion.
Hasalaka CB (Bottom of eastern scarp)-Colombo 17 mls., Kandy 43 mls.
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Few Sri Lanka drives are more impressive than Route B 38 culminating in the 8-hairpin-bend 5-mile 2,000-feet descent of the eastern scarp of the Island's hill country. But the rewards are not only scenic and exciting: there is much to see at journey's end, and the Hasalaka bungalow is a pleasanter headquarters than the Weragamtota rest-house nearby. One of the less-known attractions is a miniature limestone cave-stalactites, stalagmites and all-which overhangs an only slightly better known archaeological curiosity: Sitakotuwa Vihara. The site is reached by only a short walk from the village of Gurulupota (4 mis.: buses). Ratna Ela falls (well over 300 ft. high and set in beautifully rugged country) offer a challenging 8-mile hike, the round trip. Far easier is the excursion to the awe-inspiring Rantambe Gorge two miles beyond Minipe anicut (14 mls.: buses) where the whole Mahaveli River roars through a 20-foot bottleneck. This can only be seen when the river is low. For those more impressed by artefacts there are the Minipe Anicut (river dam) a huge colonized area hence-and by later schemesirrigated, the ancient and historic town of Mahiyangana with its great stupa, and the stored water of Sorabora Wewa. The whole of this area is steeped equally in legend and history.
Hiripitiya RH (Southern edge of Vanni Tank Country)- Colombo 79 miles, Kurunegala 22 mls.
Situated on the bund of a tank, recommended chiefly for its simple rural self, the rest-house is also convenient for a number of archaeological excursions. Best of these is the ancient (6th C.) forest hermitage of Arankele, a place of dignity and great peace. Accessible by motor car, Arankele may also be reached by bus from Hiripitiya to Galapitagala Jn. (2 mls. -- a 2-mile walk). A bus ride in the opposite direction takes one to the interesting (მეტსჭ illrestored) cave temple of Kebellena. There is a magnificent view from the top of the rock.
Arankele was the retreat of hermits and arahats, who, though they had attained the piety and holiness requisite for Buddhahood, refrained from entering Nirvana in order to help others walk in the path of virtue. One such was the sage Maliyadeva, who, with his band of holy men made Arankele his abode nearly 2,000 years ago.
One enters the hermitage by an ancient stone-paved meditation path bordered by tall, ironwood trees. The path rises in an easy gradient, two or three stone steps at a time. It is flanked by curb stones and does not allow for more than two people to walk abreast. The ancient arahats strode this path in deep meditation and were oblivious to their surroundings. In order that these
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arahats might not collide with each other a roundabout was built, and is still in a perfect state of preservation.
The roundabout, outlined by large oblong stones, smooth and exquisitely chiselled, is a perfect circle. Stone pillars lie around everywhere, pillars which once held up the roofs of houses. On the left is a glade where serving tables of stone still stand. These were the tables on which offerings were made to the holy ones for no food was cooked at the monastery. There is nearby an ancient well dug by the arahats themselves.
Arankele is a haven of peace and quietude set in sylvan surroundings, an ideal place for meditation.
Kalkudah RH (East Coast)—Colombo I74 mls., Batticaloa 20 mls.
Very pleasant but surfless sea-bathing in Pasekudah Bay ( ml., motorable). Rather less safe bathing from resthouse beach itself (South West Monsoon). Kalkudah headland is a wonderful wilderness of sea-scoured pink boulders and blue sea-pools.
Kalpitiya RH (West Coast)-Colombo 03 mls., Puttalam 29 ms.
Kalpitiya's chief distinction is an old-world air that comes partly from being an overgrown almost-entirely-Moorish fishing village and partly is enhanced by a Dutch (and previously Portuguese) fort and a Dutch church in an unusually fair state of preservation. The town was a famous port in the late middle ages of Sinhalese history.
Visit: the Palavi Salt Pans (25 mls. : buses) the ancient but much built-over Roman Catholic church of St. Anne at Talawila (4 mls. : buses) whose vastly attended festival is held on the Sunday within the octave of St. Anne's day, July 26; and the terribly Squalid but incredibly photogenic fishing vadis (temporary encampments, which spring up everywhere on the lagoon shores during the South West Monsoon season) one of the most picturesque of these lying only 3 mls. (buses) south of Kalpitiya town.
Puttalam Lagoon, on which the town lies, abounds in large islands at its northern end. It is often possible to hire a seat on one of the launches that cruise amongst them. Both sailing and motorized fishing vessels can, besides, be privately charteredat a price.
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Kantalai RH (Vanni Tank Country)-Colombo 35 mls., Trincomalee 25 mls.
Sorely pressed by the crowding of this region's modern prosperity, Kantalai rest-house is still a lovely place if you will look out only over the great 7th C. tank. Despite the encroachments of colonization, the area around is still a great place for waterfowl and jungle birds. Kantalai rest-house also has-or had—an unusually well-authenticated ghost: said to be of a holidaying planter killed by the Sudden fall of a stone corbel from the wall above him. The Corbel is still missing. But so, in these days, is the ghost. Console yourself with a visit to the Sugar Factory (9 mls.)
Kayts RH (North Coast)-Colombo 265 mls., Jaffna 12 mls.
Kayts (from the Portuguese Caes: Quays) was once the chief port of the North; it is certainly one of the most ancient in the Island. Nowhere could be better for a lover of boats and the sea, though ship-building-once a famous local craft- has been discontinued and sail has been very largely displaced by diesel engines. This port is the start for many a fascinating outing amongst the islands off the Jaffna Peninsula, though many of the inner ones are now connected with the mainland by causeways. Motor launches serve the rest.
There are few historical remains, but these are of considerable interest to students of the colonial periods. The gem of them all is the island fort of Hammenhiel: man-built on a tidal sandbar by the Portuguese, and besieged, captured and repaired by the Dutch. A mile from the rest-house is an unrestored Portuguese fortress known locally as Urundi Kotte. On the Island of Karaitivu, across a narrow strait, is the ruin of Elephant Quay (Anai Palam).
Kankesanturai RH (North Coast) - Colombo 256 mls. Jaffna i mls.
Well maintained and run, the rest-house here could be delightful, standing as it does on the very edge of the calmest (South West Monsoon season) of halcyon seas. The seaside drives on either hand are full of interest; and there are plenty of individual "items' which most tourists would wish to 'collect'.
Kantharodai Archaeological Reserve-a miniature Anuradhapura buried in the Tamil country'-one of the most recent and most fascinating of the Archaeological Department's excavations (6 mls.: buses + i ml. on foot).
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Myliddy church: a picturesque Portuguese ruin, with a semifortified Dutch manse (2 mls.: buses -- ml. on foot).
Pt. Palmyra, Sri Lanka's northernmost point, is near MP 2. (2 mls: buses). Kankesanturai Rest-house stands on an unfinished Dutch fort with Interesting semi-circular bastions.
Kurunegala RH (Southern edge of Vanni tank country) - Colombo 58 mls., Kandy 26 mls.
Especially to those archaeologically disposed, the old rest-house's unromantic situation (in the heart of a large town) is more than offset by its accessibility to an unusual number of worthwhile sites. Å particularly worthwhile for its art treasures, including an ivory-panelled door frame, is Ridigama Vihara (13 mls.: buses). The flower altar here, of Delft tiles bearing Christian scenesthe gift of a Dutch governor-is an unusual curiosity. At Padeniya (5 mls.: buses) is a gem of rural temple architecture.
Other sites of interest are too numerous to mention, but enquiry-and excursions-should be made. As an added inducement the Kurunegala bus-stand is the best organized and most convenient in the Island. No one should, also, miss one of the loveliest picnic sites he could imagine: the shores of Batalagoda tank. (8 mls.: buses).
The new rest-house is delightfully sited on the western bank of the Kurunegala Lake.
Maho RH (Vanni Tank Country)-Colombo 82 mls., Kurunegala 29 mils. V.
A.
For the archaeologist this rest-house outrivals even Galgamuwa. The temple at Padeniya is only 4 ms. away, on a regular bus route. The lst C. BC site called Kaikkawala is a mere i mls. away, the first mile busable. A mile's walk south of Konwewa (6 mls.: buses, trains) is a very large pre-Christian monastery on the prominent beetling Diyabetta-gala Crag. A tiny, hideously "restored' but beautifully situated temple-the Bo tree here is one of the prettiest in Sri Lanka; in a niche in a flower altar below is a miniature sedent Buddha, carved of wood, of infinite rusticated charm; nor should you miss the great crumbling ruin of a reclining Buddha, in brick, for which you must bear left at the top of the climb to the temple cave-clings like a wild bees' nest to the face of Nagala rock near Nikawewa (3 mls.: buses).
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Many other minor but highly interesting ruins are scattered in every direction. But the most important local ruin of all is the splendid though short-lived rock fortress of Yapahuwa which some consider excels. Sigiriya. The surviving stonework certainly does: florid but exquisite. The climb to the top of the rock is easy, and the view ecxellent. The turn off to Yapahuwa (from which to the fortress is i mls.) is only two miles by bus from Maho; and the railway carries one even closer.
Yapahuwa was the seat of government in the 13th century.
The rock here rises abruptly to a height of about 300 feet. On the south and east sides of the rock, the land has been built up into terraces and retained by walls, so that access could be gained to the summit.
Subha, a military leader, who had his stronghold at Yapahuwa, (also known as Subhapabbata-Subha's Rock) occupied the rock for purposes of military strategy. From here, he was able to check Magha's (25-236 A. D.) forces from proceeding southwards. Magha of Kalinga led an invasion of the Island with nearly 24,000 soldiers.
Later, Bhuvanekabahu I (272-284 A. D.) made Yapahuwa his capital and transferred the Sacred Tooth Relic of the Buddha from Dambadeniya to Yapahuwa.
Chinese coins found in quantity at Yapahuwa point to the probability of Bhuvanekabahu I having had friendly relations with China.
Two sets of alternating moat and rampart gird the southern and eastern parts of the rock. The outer rampart is about 3,000 feet in length-and consists of an earth embankment over which a brick wall is built. The inner rampart is faced with rectangular blocks of granite. Between the outer and inner ramparts was the outer city, where there is evidence of four ponds of yore. There are indications of a mud moat beyond the outer moat.
Recent excavations of the inner moat have yielded rounded stones of diameters ranging from 3 to 7 inches which were obviously used as missiles in warfare.
The stone stairway on a plateau at the base of the rock is very impressive and has beautiful sculptures. Within the fortification are remains of many structures and a cave temple with statues of the Buddha and paintings of the Kandy period.
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To the east, outside the fortifications, are the remains of a Buddhist fane. One of the structures here, which has preserved most of its components, is said to be the Temple of the Tooth. For the most part built of well-fashioned granite, it is constructed in the (Pandyan) South Indian style of architecture. The door frames, are sculptured.
At Pinwewa, about 2 miles away from the remains of the Yapahuwa city, an ancient burial site was found. It is locally known as Gal Sohona Kanatta, graveyard of stone monuments.
Over 40 cists, chambered tombs with stone slabs to shore up the sides and similar slabs to serve as lids, were found here.
Nainativu ls. CB-Colombö 270 miles, Jafna 2 mies.
There is a single bus on the island, plying a mls. run () between the jetty and the circuit bungalow. 帶 latter is a pleasant little place, with one good, and one not-so-good, bedroom. But food is not officially available, or even cooked in it (though private arrangement with the caretaker for rice or stringhoppers and simple accompaniments can be made).
Just beyond the jetty is an important Hindu temple to the "fisheyed' goddess Meenakshi, consort of Siva, where is preserved a stone inscribed by Parakramabahu I, relating to the disposal of wrecks and the succour of survivors. The original temple was destroyed by the Portuguese and rebuilt-the story is depicted in remarkable panels of woodcarving on the temple's present festal chariot-and the annual festival and fair (in the season JulyAugust) is again one of the most important in the Hindu calendar. Even at ferial seasons a puja here-especially the nightly, one around eight-is worth attending. Η
Equally famous, in the Buddhist world, is the Buddhist temple (one of the solosmasthana) a little more than ml. down the bus road; but there is nothing of archaeological interest that survives. Near the circuit bungalow is an interesting fishing village; but privacy in the dwellings is prized and should not be violated. lf, however, one can make friends with the men of the village a fascinating-but tough-skin-diving excursion may be arranged with them to accompany chank divers at work in the Delft Channel off the southern end of Nainativu. Otherwise, sea bathing off the island, alas, is poor.
Nalanda RH-Colombo 102 mls., Kandy 30 mls., Matale I44 mls. ` -
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A pleasantly-situated rest-house with several objects of interest within easy reach: gedige i ml.; Nalanda reservoir 4 mls.; ancient Roman Catholic enclave and shrine of St. Anthony at Wahacotte via reservoir, partly on minor road, 10 mls.; Hangamu Vihara-amongst the ruins here is the only known contemporaneous copy (there are said to have been two) of the historic nonaggression pact between Gajabahu II and Parakramabahu -via reservoir, southwards to Palepola, westwards to Melsiripura, southwards to near MP 70 on Kurunegala-Dambulla road, southeastwards to Hangamuwa, 25 mls.; Dambulla Vihara 5 mls; Gem pits at Elahera.
Padaviya CB-Colombo 77 mls.
Comfortable, picturesquely sited. Much of archaeological interest in the region; minor road to Kokkilai Sanctuary (17 mls.) Pulmoddai (+5 mis.) and vatadage at Tiriyai (-|- 7 mls.).
Peradeniya CB-Colombo 70 miles, Kandy 4 mils. el 1,575 ft.
Comfortable. Beautifully situated on river bank within famed Botanical Gardens. Convenient also for "Eastern Shrines' off Kandy, and for University Campus. Katarangala Vihara, with its unique golden Buddha within a gem-bestudded makara thorana lies within walking distance (2 mls.) across pedestrian suspension bridge.
Pooneryn (Punakari) CB-Colombo 191 mls., Jafna 15* mls. via Karaitivu (vehicular) Ferry-often out of order-53 mls.
The Circuit Bungalow is close to the old Dutch fort. To add to the romance, the Fort is haunted: by someone who gallops to the gate with the jingle of harness and the thunder of hoofs over the vanished drawbridge . . . . but is never seen.
Ragala CB-Colombo || 19 mils., Nuwara Eliya 13 mls. el. 5,000 ft.
Pleasant up-country climate, in high tea country. Plentiful trout fishing. Splendid panorama from Dixon's Corner (2 mls.) near MP 6 on Uda-Pussellawa road. Unexcelled centre for mountain hikes and rambles: especially recommended, that through Kandapola-Sita Eliya Forest reserve, via St. Leonard's Estate and villages of Uduhawara and Perawella to Hakgala (Gardens) passing close to Ravanaella and Perawella Falls (15 mls.) and probably calling for a camp or bivouac en route; and that longer but much easier (18 mls., but by road or bridle track all the way) passing old British station of Fort MacDonald and within reach
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of famous lstripura Caves via Waldemar Group to Welimada. For adventurous motoring descend the Devil's Staircase (Marigold Shortcut) to Padiyapelella (20 mls. from Kandy) and Rikiligaskada and so, if you wish, to Kandy.
Rakwana RH-Colombo 84 mls., Ratnapura 29 mls. el. ,200 ft.
Highly scenic 4 mls. shortcut (for pedestrians) to famous view from ဒြိုဂျိန် Pass: el. 3,300 ft. Southern edge of Sinharaja Forest motorable via Deepdene Estate (10 mls.) Gem-mining district, particularly for rubies.
Ratnapura RH—Colombo 56 mls.
Very pleasantly situated, in the Island's "Gem Capital'. Gemmining throughout region; cutting and polishing in town. Small but most instructive and interesting museum.
Highly interesting ancient Saman Devala 2 mis., whose fascinating annual perahera (pageant), festival and fair take place during Esala (July-August) season. Adam's Peak by "classical' route 16 mls. (9 motorable). Fine views of Peak from many points; lovely river view (though excluding Peak) from Warakatota bridge. Ancient Buddhist Potgul Vihara. Many relics of Ehelapola. victim and 'villain' of last days of Sinhalese throne. Remains of British fort. Highly impressive caves at Kosgalla (5 mls.) and Eratna/Batatotal (2 mls.) Delightful swimming pool in forest setting, near rest-house. All natural Ratnapura forests abound in Sri Lanka's Vesak Orchid (flowering around Vesak
month of May).
Sinnamuhattuvaram RH-Colombo 230 ms., Batticaloa 40 mls.
On sandbar between lagoon and sea. Bathing unsafe; but ood lagoon fishing. Shooting-snipe and teal. Noteworthy view rom summit of Mottayagala rock 9 mls.
Uggal Kaltota CB-Colombo 108 mls.
Situated on a lovely stretch of the Walawe River and at the foot of the Tanjantenna escarpment. Important irrigation headworks. Budugala cave temple and Kurugala cavern 2 mls. on foot from MP 4 on Balangoda-Uggal Kaltota road.
Valaichchenai CB -Colombo 75 mls., Batticaloa 20 mls.
Very comfortable bungalow attached to the mills of the Sri Lanka Paper Corporation. Within easy distance-4 miles-of the
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developing tourist resort of Kalkudah. Market-place is worth visiting.
Vakaneri CB-Colombo 65 mls., Batticaloa 25 mls.
A much less pretentious but much more delightfully sited bungalow than the one at Valaichchenai, only five miles farther from the bathing spot at Kalkudah. Punanaianicut 3 mls.
Vakarai RH-Colombo 197 mls.
in appearance an uninviting hostelry, though dawn over the lagoon by which it stands is worth rising for; but if you go for curried crabs, this is an outstanding place for that dish. Seabathing when lagoon is discharging is unsafe even in the right South West Monsoon season: better move south (3 mls.) towards Chenai kudah beach.
Welimada RH-Colombo 32 mls., Nuwara Eliya 16 m s. Bandarawela 13 m s. el. 3,400 ft.
Once pleasant enough; now useful chiefly as a headquarters for those wishing to explore the remarkable underground galleries of the stripura caverns (6 mls.-incl. ml. climb on foot -along Paranagama road and turn off near MP 4). Old British Fort MacDonald 5 mls. along same road. Horton Plains 5 mls., Hakgala Gardens 9 mls.
Wel lawaya RH (Moneragala District)-Colombo 136 miles.
Unimaginatively sited 50 yards to the north of the main Haldum ulla-Moneragala-Pottuvil road.
Eight miles west, by the very edge of the road, cascades unceasingly the majestic 570-foot Diyaluma Falls. To the north is Randeniya where in the parched month of August 1630, King Senerat led his Kandyan soldiers to a decisive victory over Constantine de Sa and his Portuguese troops. The battle, it is related, raged during an unexpected storm and was to end when Constantine de Sa fell, accidentally killed by one of his own soldiers. Much further east, but certainly no less thrilling in a different sort of way, is Lahugala, the haunt of elephants.
Four miles south of Wellawaya, on the Tissamaharama road, is the turn-off to the collossi of Buduruvagala. This group of statues, the finest example of Mahayana sculpture in the Island, is over a thousand years old. The 2-mile, dry-weather track leading to the sculptures, is unpaved and the last mile or so only jeepable during very wet weather. At the end of this road, to the left and
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beyond a stream, rises the tall Buduruvagala rock and on its face, carved in high-relief, is a unique assemblage of gigantic statuary. A 5-foot-tall image of the Buddha stands dominant in the centre of it.
The image of the Buddha-the tallest in the island-is flanked on either side by two 40-foot-high Bodhisatvas, each of which is in turn flanked by two figures. Of these, one is of a female figure.
The Bodhisatva on the Buddha's right hand side is said to be Avalokitesvera. This truly handsome image is by far the best carved of the seven figures. On the left of this Bodhisatva is the bare-breasted figure his spiritual consort; goddess Tara, in the tivanka (thrice-bent) pose, carrying in her left hand not the usual lotus but a pot. Tara, it is interesting to relate, was said to have sprung from the tears of a grieving Avalokitesvera as he pondered on the sufferings of humanity. The figure on the right of the Avalokitesvera image is thought to be that of Sudhanakumara, a constant companion of the Bodhisatva.
The identity of the Bodhisatya, to the Buddha's left, is in doubt. Some aver that it is Vajrapani ; others that it is Manjusri or Maitriya. Legend, not to be outdone, claims that it portrays Upatissa, son of King Silakala (523-535 A.D.). Silakala, a just and brave king, was one of the first known conservationists to ban the killing of wild animals: a glorious tradition which persists, in this strongly Buddhist island, to this very day. The attendant figures, too, in this group have yet to be identified. The figure on the Bodhisatva's left, in this group, holds in its right hand a double-headed thunderbolt, the "dorge' symbol common in the Tantric doctrine of faraway Tibet.
A most expressive feature of the Bodhisatvas of Buduruvagala, is the mudra-gesture-of their right hands, Two fingers, the ring and middle, bent forward touch the palm and beckon devotees to come forward and worship in an atmosphere of peace and tranquility at this jungle enconsced shrine.
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CHAPTER
Sanctuary
THE Land of Lakes, for that is what Wil-pattu literally means, is the setting for one of the Island's National parks which affords sanctuary to its precious wildlife. The Wilpattu National Park sits squarely in the north western section of the country, hemmed in by two rivers and civilisation. It has pushed its tentacles into the sea and is now over 500 square miles in extent.
The Park was proclaimed a little over 35 years ago and began life as a Game Sanctuary. But not until 1965 did Wilpattu really come into its own, reaching the zenith of its popularity in 1970. Until then it was poorly roaded and access to it was a nightmare. These two hurdles overcome, and by virtue of it being closer to Colombo (27 miles), this Cinderella now vies with Yala for top position.
lts proximity to the ancient city of Anuradhapura-only 18 miles from the turn-off-gives it historical importance and within the Park there are numerous sites of archaeological interest. In addition to the natural saucer-like lakes are many breached and abandoned irrigation tanks and channels, indicating the opulence of earlier kingdoms.
Besides, legend claims that the first settlers from India disembarked at Kudremalai (Horse Point) and reached the hinterland through forest tracks now included in this Park. And somewhere around 280 B.C., Princess Sangamitta who brought the holy
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Bo-sapling to Sri Lanka presented one if its eight offshoots to the incumbent of a shrine known as Tantrimalai. This revered spot with the Bo-sapling now a tree, is also within the area added to the Park in 1969.
What does this cultural oasis hold in store for you?
Firstly a unique landscape composed of attractive high forest with tenacious lianas and thorny scrub interrupted fairly regularly by expansive verdant plains and soothing sand-rimmed basins of water known as villus. A narrow, gently winding road has been tunnelled through otherwise impenetrable scrub and copse to surface at villu and glade and provide visitors their thrills not all at once as in Serengeti and Tsavo, but in a series of surprises as only Wilpattu can boast of.
That is the second speciality. There is no getting behind the fact that this park has an infectious calm and tranquility which envelopes all who enter its portals. To experience this, ensconce yourself in a scrub hideout on the edge of a villu, switch of all manmade noise and watch. There are no dull moments here as you scan from left to right. . . . . . . . a flock of whistling teal, herds of deer on fringing plain calling to mind Bach's "where sheep may safely graze," a solitary wild hare nibbling a yard away, open-bill storks, cormorants, snake birds, a tortoise, crocodiles.
But wait! Your guide has tugged at your elbow "Shh, leopard, leopard." Follow his pointing finger for, to the inexperienced eye, the monarch is still invisible, merging with Sand and fallen leaf. If you are lucky he may be in a playful mood and will presently bestir himself to sit up, twirl his tail, roll on the sand, yawn, stretch. He is a prig and soon he will scatter deer and hare by revealing his regal form and look towards the water bowl with a supercilious air. if it is a hot day and if he has fed, he will stroll down to the water himself and drink his fill and withdraw to the comfort of an arborea armchair. Half an hour later the deer return, the pigs come grunting in and crocodiles slither out of the sedge-rimmed lake.
That excerpt is from Borupanwila, the lake of wild reeds, the first of a possible forty windows to the wildlife of the Wilpattu National Park.
Perhaps you would like to stay here longer, but remember that at the next villu you may stand a chance of seeing that enigmatic and by no means pretty, carnivore, the sloth bear. It is a complete paradox; with fearsome teeth set in sturdy jaws it is content to live on the softest fruit, honey and termites; its slow shuffling gait belies its speed and agility and its doleful expression hides the
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fire and strength of its ruthless attack. Even the satisfaction of their mating is punctuated by blood-curdling screams and yells.
So you inch your way through Timbiriwila to Kumbukwila, one of the likeliest areas for bear as they rummage among anthills, pick berries from a dozen different fruit trees or waddle across the grassy plain to reach the edge of the water.
At Kumbukwila you may alight at the far end where there is a cosy little summer-hut with rough-hewn benches to sit on. It is a place full of interest. From December to April, several species of birds nest in almost-reclining kumbuk trees, the uncommon openbill Stork taking pride of place. Wilpattu's famed songster, the shama Serenades you from a nearby tree, at times almost chiding the jungle cock whose strident jock-jo-joyce' spoils his rhythm. During the fruiting season from May till early August hornbills are busy collecting berries for their imprisoned wives and young; deer come to eat the fallen fruit. A hot day in July may even bring out a herd of elephants to add that little extra to your sojourn. Kokkarevillu, which you next encounter, is curiously a saltwater lake. It opes its brackishness to certain mineral salts in its bed. Buffaloes are in charge here, safe in their saline immersion. White-bellied sea eagles wheel overhead biding their time for the unwary fish; black-winged stilts, great stone plover and lapwing pick shellfish, insects and crustacea from the shallow water. Grim crocodiles bask in the open.
A little beyond is Nelunwila-beloved haunt of regular visitors to this National Park. On its edge, in the branches of a stately kumbuk tree, is a little watch-hut. Climb up the steep ladder and spend a few hours in it. Here, frame after frame of the many-faceted jungle will unfold itself into a cinerama. Watch crocodiles leap up to feed and, in leaping, send ripples that set the lotus flowers a dancing. Watch monkeys, on the further bank, troop in to drink amidst alert, already drinking, deer. Listen to the shrill whistle of teal as they flash by on swift wings. Hear the grunts of greedy boar as they "sh nozzel' their way through soft, yielding mud-grubbing. Sometimes, if you are fortunate, you will thrill to the sight of a mischievous cub riding piggy-back on mother bear's broad beam. And, if fortune really favours you, the green curtain of the jungle will part and reveal a herd of elephants walking silently, slowly, majestically towards the water's edge for their evening drink and aquatic frolic.
Nelunwila is one of two places, in the heart of the park, where one is allowed to step out of a vehicle-somehow children seem to sense it and almost without exception this is their favourite spot. A nibbled biscuit and a quickly quenched thirst keeps them quiet
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again as adults set off further and further; seeking more and more to 5.
Like Nelunwila and Kokkare; Borupan and Thimbiri, each villu has its own charm, its own character. This you will discover as you drive through the park discovering new names and fresh beauty. You will come back to them, searching again and againand in time will grow within you an intimacy, a love for this jungle which offers safe sanctuary to our fast dwindling and terribly procious Wild life,
Unfortunately, Caven in this para dise we must be " the subjects" of time. The time of the day, for instance, when you should be out probing the jungle trails, searching the shores of the villus, looking for and finding the animals and birds that fill this park. As a general rule three outings, or "rounds", a day are suggested. The first, at the very crack of dawn with, at most, a cup of tea under your belt. This round, usually a short one, is it by the first streaks of dawn which brings the sleeping Jungle into life. In the plains the deer, ankle deep in ground mist, move sleepily towards the high forest; the gaudy jungle Cock pecks away feeding, pausing occasionally to mock his brightly-coloured rival; herons, egrets and cormorants feed luscily, shattering already shimmering waters as they dive The fresh morning air will make you ravenous, too, so drive back "home' for a quick, hearty breakfast.
Be out again by 8 o'clock the very latest. Carry a snack and something to drink-this is going to be a long tiring round-often as much as 50 to 60 miles being traversed by the time you get back for lunch around noon. Your chances of seeing leopard on this round are pretty good; look out for them as they bask in the sun and sometimes even play, like your cat at home, on the edges of the villus. You will see many deer and the occasional, barking deer. Rarely will you see bear at this time of the day although, towards noon, you may spot one fast asleep on the sandy patches that dot this park.
Lunch, siesta, a refreshing Cup of tea and ofagain, in a hurry, by 3.30 p.m. the very latest. Carry a picnic bag with you and also pack into it a torch which could be most useful should you have a spot of bother with your vehicle when returning home as it gets dark. Generally 30 to 40 miles are totted up by the time you get back. On this round, too, it is likely that you will meet leopard stalking alongjungle paths or watching for prey from the villu's edge. As dusk sets in, bear move out into the open virus. The chances are that you will meet one of them at least around Ku Tabuk or Nelunwila. Kokkare, too, is a fair bet, particularly if there has been a slight shower of rain during the day. During the drought
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there is every likelihood of your spotting elephant as they step out into the vils to drink. Your best bet would be Kaliwill u, Maradarmaduwa or Nelunwila. But your best bet of all is to let the tracker be your guide. It is he who knows best the movements of leopard and where to find them; where the elephants may be found; where the largest herds of deer are or where the lonely Sambur hides. Always give your tracker the best point of wantage-he knows what he is looking for and his sharp cyes will pick out animals and birds for you,
Back at home" and as the night settles in rest your tired eyes and listen. Listen to the sounds of the jungle that tell tales. The screech of a disturbed hawk eagle, the chuckle of feeding night-jar, the resonant bell of the sambur's call and finest of all the bark of the frightened deer with which the jungle freezes into stillness. A leopard is on the prowl, a proud killer stalks. The bark more frenzied now comes from here, now there, Bark follows bark pinpointing for you the movements of the killer. A strangled scream and all is over, and if the kill was Thade close enough, you would, surely, hear the "saw" of a tired leopard. This "saw", an aweinspiring sound, will thrill the very marrow of your bones. After the drama the cicadas sing again and the sounds of the jungle return and Iull you to sleep. Sleep lightly, though, the jungle is yet alive and has many more tales to tell.
With the dawn leave the beaten track for the lesser known places close by. A little beyond the Kaliwillu bungalow, legend says, are the ruins of. Kuveni's once glorious palace, Turn to the right as you leave the bungalow and hug the villu's edge, less than a Tile away is a path that leads to it. A few of its pillars still stand but the jungle has covered most of it and left little to see, yet within one grows a strange feeling of awe, is it the majesty of the jungle or is it history, centuries old, that makes one surreptitiously doff his hat? Who cante||?
On the way to the Kok Totte bungalow, and quite close to it to the right, is a jeep track that leads to the ruins at Ochappu KalluOchayappu Kallu-the leaning stone. Drive as far as you can, abandon your vehicle and then walk behind your tracker. As you approach this rocky outcrop you will notice that your tracker appears to have suddenly developed acute laryngitis. He will Cough loud, make odd noises in his throat, and cough painfully loud again. He will suddenly bring the side of his axe down on a rock and grunt; you may well imagine that he has gone mad as well! In actual fact he is frightening away bear that frequent the ledges and little caves that are at the foot of the climb to the intriguing "leaning stone'. The view from the top is what the birds see--a carpet of green jungle. Look down below and see what is easily
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the prettiest water-hole in the whole of this park. In the green jungle around are innumerable pillars some yet erect, others fallen centuries ago. Your tracker will point out to you inscriptions that date back to the second centucy B.C. Even legend hesitates to recount the history of this place now buried in the vastness of the jungle.
To the west and closer to the sea is Pomparippu-the golden plains-now barren land where not so long ago inconvenient public servants were sent into exile. Palugaturai and a little further north, Pookulam, are little fishing villages worthy of a visit, when the North East Monsoon blows, if only to re-stock your larder with fresh fish, lobsters, crabs and prawns. Sea-bathing here is excellent and a welcome change from the normal routine' of a National Park holiday.
The red cliff of Kudremalai Point is a pleasant boat ride away from the village of Pookulam-or a convenient 6-mile jeep ride from the guard's hut at Maraiwila.
Climb up to this headland and below you spreads out a calm bay into which, over a thousand years ago, drifted a Roman ship in which sailed a freedman who, when he came ashore, received the hospitality of the king. The freedman was to call this cliff Hippurosthe Horse Mountain-and when the winds changed, left the haven of its bay taking with him the first ambassadors to leave our shores for Rome and the court of Augustus Caesar. When they returned to the Island they brought back with them coral, from the Mediterranean which king Bhatikabhaya (19 B.C. to 9 A.D.) had cast into a net with which he decorated the Ruvanveli Seya.
Here, history is buried ankle deep and is fleetingly exposed by the erosion of sweeping winds and the currents of the sea. Here, at the foot of the cliff, legend claims, was the sprawling palace of the beautiful princess Alliarasany; and Pliny spoke of a large settlement visited by the sailors of Rome. Civilisations, thousands of years old, lie buried here-there is no doubt about that. The eroding winds and the sea have but scratched the surface of time and whetted E. appetite of the adventurer and explorer of this yet untouched
and.
Six miles south of Kudremalai lie the unnamed suburbs of a civilisation. The waves of the sea here have gently sculptured and polished little bits of ancient pottery that lie scattered on the shore. Buried in the limestone cliffs, and exposed by the buffeting waves, are the brittle remains of goblets that people drank from; plates from which they ate; pots in which they cooked and wells from which,
62.

In a parched dry land, they sought and found fresh water by the sea. Here indeed is a cross-section of history.
In this "Land of Lakes' the major villus and water-holes are:
Aalam wila Maduru odai Aththa wila . Mahapatessa Borupan wila Maila villu Demata wila Mana wila Eranapala mottai Manikapola uttu Herathamy wala Marai vilu ||lande mottai Maradan maduwa Kali villu Marikaram vilu Kanjuran vilu Namada wila Kara willa Nel un willa Kaya mottai Panikkar vilu Kumbuk wila Peddiveli vveva Kumuttu wila Periya vilu Kudapatessa Periya Naga villu Kuruttu Pandi Periya uppu vilu Kokkare willa Sengapadu wila Kombansanchi Pooval Sinna uppu villu Katakandal kulam Tala wila Katarampu vilu Thimbiri wila /Lunu wila Uduppu wila
The Ruhunu National Park which is one of four set apart for the preservation of the Island's dwindling wildlife is some 500 Square miles in extent. It is situated in the south-east corner of the Island, 85 miles from Colombo. Although officially designated the Ruhunu National Park, it is just Yala to everyman. On paper, Yala looks large enough to sustain massive animal populations but the terrain is for the most part rocky, sparse of vegetation and badly off for life-giving water. A few rainless weeks and out go the animals to greener pastures and death at the hands of poachers and irate farmers.
But it has a silver lining-the coastal belt to which as in a centrifuge, the wiser animals gravitate. Here, at the confluence of river and sea, of sand dune and plain, of lake and lush vegetation are the animals you have come many miles to see. Through this picturesque oasis your tracker (guide) will lead you, speaking only when spoken to, but showing you everything from elephants and buffalo, through painted stork and monitor lizard, to the lowly dung beetle pushing in reverse a dollop twice her size.
The Park is motorable, the original roads having been thoughtfully laid out so as to connect the best feeding and watering
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grounds yet not cause undue disturbance to animals. They are accustomed to having vehicles roll slowly up to them, provided occupants do not alight, or talk in anything but a whisper. The tracker will take you along the most profitable route, where if time and season are right, you will see deer, Sambur, wild boar and elephant before the morning is out. To do this he will take a right turn just three miles from the entrance, through good elephant country, pausing awhile at Debaragaswala and the Uraniya plains where these giants avail themselves of water and food. The road then loops back to join the main road at Buttuwa, famed alike for its lagoon and its lodge. V
As is usual at the meeting point of different habitats, Buttuwa lagoon and its surrounds throb with life. Feral buffalo wallow in the shallows, herds of deer feed on the plains, a panting jackal (jackals always seem to be in a hurry) sneaks off somewhere . . . . . The bird life is equally profuse. The rare black-necked stork (of which there are perhaps a dozen in the Island) tower above the other waders like ibis, herons and egrets. From November to April the migrant birds from Europe, Western Asia and India enrich the ပ္ပlation. Among these are various plover, bittern, sandpiper and duck.
The main road regained, start looking for wild flowers, brightly coloured and fragrant. The yellow ranawara (Cassia) blue Memexylon and white karamba, bloom after the rains as do creepers such as Derris and Gloriosa superba.
You can be sure your musings will be interrupted by the tracker at Gonalabbe, the sambur enclave, where these slate-brown stalwarts of the deer family (erroneously called elk) foregather. Although generally solitary, at this favourite lagoon, sambur meet in large numbers, sometimes up to sixty and they loll around in the water or march onwards to the sand dunes ahead. Frequently, they are accompanied by wild boar and buffalo.
At Rakinawala, as you should have done at Uraniya, be sure to look out for crocodiles. They appear in various sizes and will display themselves in a dozen different postures. These marsh crocodiles are the smaller of the two species found in Sri Lanka, the larger being the salt-water (estuarine) form.
And so on to Yala proper, on the right bank of the Menik Ganga, a beautiful wide and meandering river whose clear water and sandy spits beckon to tired traveller and thirsty animal. You may alight here, rest, picnic and chat awhile. Or take time off to look closer
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at the great trees in whose canopy grey langurs play follow-myleader and hornbills call each other in metallic discords.
Largest of the trees lining the river bank are the kumbuk with their unmistakable polished bark and whose roots are said to purify the water. There is halmilla, a good timber tree, distinguished by Straight whitish trunks and large ovate light-green leaves. Further in are fruit trees such as palu and vira favoured by bear and birds; dimbul a choice morsel for elephants. Ehala (Cassia fistula), Rose of India (Lagerstroemia Flos-reginae) and others provide flowers.
Whether you are a casual day visitor or a "lodger' at one of the Park bungalows, begin your next circuit, cameras and binoculars at the ready, by 4 p.m. As the Sun loses power the animals venture into the open, to forage and to kill.
in the distance you are likely to see a herd of elephant apparently standing still but as you approach you see them engaged in what is known as 'scarifying the grass. They pick a patch of edible grass and scrape it with their toe-nails; a mouthful at a time is collected by the trunk, tapped gently on the foreleg to remove the soil, and stuffed into the mouth. The whole patch done, the herd moves on to the next, and though sometimes temporarily disturbed, will return to this delectable meal. This is the time one can really enjoy elephant-watching; sometimes the younger animals get bored with this rather undignified pastime for an elephant, and will break away to tear down a big branch, or push against an ant-hill; or there will be mock battles; babies play hideand-seek amongst distended bellies and columnar legs; occasionally an elder will whip them with tail or trunk bringing forth squeals. Eventually they push on to water for a long draught and a shower. Out again they "powder' themselves with dust as protection against biting nocturnal insects. V
Towards evening the tracker has to wrench you away from these idyllic scenes, to look for the lord of our carhivores, the majestic leopard. If all else fails he will drive to Leopard Rock (Wepandeniya) where usually a big male obliges the disappointed visitor.
This rock rises 30 feet above the scrub jungle and overlooks a very large plain bristling with deer, pig and buffalo. The leopard plans his strategy from the summit and exploiting all hunting machinery Nature has endowed him with, sallies forth at dusk. If you miss him at the top you are likely to see him as he crosses the road and stalks phantom-like behind bushes and tussocks until he is within range of the doomed prey. A final rush, confusion in
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the ranks of the hunted, a yearling in his jaws and everything is pathetically over.
It is almost dark now and as elephants have right of way and you cannot use your headlamps, leave the jungle for your lodge. Rest well for there is more jungle to explore. y
leave the well-trodden paths for the tracks that lead into the wilderness, where one can roam in the tangled mass of jungle and open spaces.
The few that have ventured off the known tracks have been spellbound not only by the wildlife, but more by the vastness of its wilderness, its archaeological finds, scenic beauty, places of geological interest and ancient irrigation tanks.
The archaeological ruins takes one back to the golden era of the Sinhalese kings. Yala was part of the kingdom of the Ruhuna kings during the 1st century BC and they built large tanks like the Pannagamana, Banduwewa, Gallukada, Gonagala and Buttuwa wewa to store water, each tank filled by the spill-waters of the one above it.
They are now breached, abandoned and silted. The jungle has crept over these large irrigation works and they have now become feeding grounds for animals and the little pools of water in them, a source of precious life-giving water for the thirsty animals and wallows for wild pig and buffalo.
During the time of the Sinhalese kings, Buddhism flourished and shrines such as Situlpavuva, Magulmahavehera, Akasachetiya, Kotadola (still to be found), Mayagala and Thalaguluhela were resplendent. The chronicles record that a thousand arahats lived in this region, where rock caves were donated to the Sangha to dwell in and meditate. Y
The golden era, however, came to an end due to wars among petty kings, drought, famine and disease. The jungle crept over this once populous area and it is now the sanctuary of wild animals.
In Yala Block 2, the maritime strip between the Menik and Kumbukkan rivers, is flat, open park and scrub jungle with water-holes, wallows, tanks and lagoons. •
Many species of animals and birds abound in this area and from
November to May they roam at will undisturbed by man as it is inaccessible during these months. With the commencement of
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the drought in June, the rivers can be forded again and visits to the area made by jeep.
The coastline is about 22 miles long with the seashore and dunes an ideal refuge and nesting ground for the five' species of turtle found around the Island. Wild pig, sambur, peafowl and hermit crab roam the shore and dunes.
You could look out over miles of rolling sand dunes where the wind blows piles and pushes the sand so that they are ceaselessly moving, drifting and constantly changing. Some of the dunes are about 40 feet high with a beach-jungle vegetation of knotted, twisted wind-blown trees and shrubs 0 feet high. Others are low with procumbent creepers, varieties of grass, goat's foot and spinifex.
The coastal strip, too, was populated around the first century B.C., but now the sands of time have engulfed and buried the past. What remains to be seen are potsherd, broken brick, tile, a few stone pillars at Pillinnawa modera and the ancient earth wells on the edge of the Pothana lagoon.
Less than two miles along the coast from Pillinnawa modera, towards Pothana, is a ridge that rises steeply above the shore. At the base of the cliff are rocks eroded into the shape of a man, which gives the cliff its name-miniha-gal-kanda. Within this ridge are three amphitheatres, each more stunningly beautiful than the other.
Erosion, in scooping out these huge bowls, has sculptured shapes indescribably beautiful and revealed colours that no pen can describe. The steep walls of these amphitheatres, rising in places over 100 feet high, display layer upon eroded layer of many-hued soils interspersed with rocks of quartz, jasper, chert, limestone and gneiss.
Morley Davis, in 1923, dated fossilised marine shells collected here to the Miocene age. Thirty-six years later Deraniyagala was to discover the first echinoderms and vertebrates. He also found stone age implements on the lips of the amphitheatres.
Of the amphitheatres, the one furthest east is large and contains fossilised sponges. In the centre is the largest (Watson's 2) amphitheatre. The smallest lies to the west and hides in its miocene limestone, fossil marine shells. On the ledges that scallop these bowls, Deraniyagala found stone age weapons and conjectured that primitive hunters camped here in search of animals that came to drink of its mineral springs. He could well be right for even today it abounds with prancing sambur, leopard and wild buffalo.
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About 3 miles beyond Potana is Walaskema, a low sprawling outcrop with 4 rock water holes. As its name implies, bear (walas) haunt its rock pools (kema); so do elephants, leopard and buffalo.
South-east of Walaskema, close to the seashore is Muduwelipokuna. This circular waterhole covered by lotus flowers is the haunt of deer and sambur. Sambur in this area are usually seen in groups of over ten lazily basking on the seashore and wending their way, once in a while, to the pool to quench their thirst.
Kumana and the Yala East National Park is located at the southernmost corner of the Eastern Province, Kumana is the most picturesque area of the dry zone coastline of Sri Lanka. The very name Kumana conjures visions of our abundant wealth of avifauna in all its plumed splendour.
The famous Kumana villu where water birds mest, lies amidst abundant wild-life-filled plains and jungle, archaeologically rich outcrops of rock with their many caves and inscriptions, and miles of unexplored golden beaches. The gently flowing waters of the Kumbukkan oya, that forms a boundary on the southern side, contrasts with the roar of the surf of the sea coast that flanks Kumana to the east. A succession of Salt water lagoons along the coast, each surrounded by extensive plains are a treat to wildlife lovers. The lagoons attract numerous Sandpipers, plovers, ducks and waders during the North East Monsoon and the plains are speckled with deer, buffalo and wild pig. Large rock-outcrops of fantastic shapes rise from the flat terrain and ensconce habitable drip-ledged caves, some with rock inscriptions of the pre-Christian era.
The Kumana villu--a mangrove swamp of about 500 acres is the main attraction in the area for the bird lover. Aquatic birds in their varied hues and plumage flock in their hundreds, to court and nest. The villu includes a marsh in which kirala trees of medium height grow. Interspersed are bushes of karang and hambu.
From April to June, aquatic birds wing their way to Kumana, there to mate and multiply and perpetuate the species. Spotted billed pelicans (Pelicanus roseus), painted storks (Ibis leucocephalus), spoonbills (Platalea leucorodia), white ibis (Threskiornis melancocePhalas), open bill stork (Anastomus oscitans), eastern purple heron (Ardea purpurea manilensis), eastern grey heron (Ardea cinerea rectirostris), eastern large egret (Egretta alba modesta), median egret (Egretta intermedia intermedia), little egret (Egretta garzetta garzetta), pond heron (Ardeola grayii), night heron (Nycticorax nycticorax nycticorax), chestnut bittern (Ixobrychus cinnamomeus), lndian darter (Anhinga melanogaster), Indian shag (Phalacrocorax fuscicollis), little cormorant (Phalacrocorax niger), congregate
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during this period and enhance the beauty of the swamp that has a resident population of Indian waterhen (Gallinula chloropus indicus), water cock (Gallicrex cinerea), purple coot (Porphyrio pollocephalus policophalus), pheasant-tailed jacana (Hydrophasiamus chirurgus), black-winged stilt (Himantopus himantopus ceylonesis), w histling teal (Dendrocygna javanica) and the little grebe (Podiceps ruficollis capensis).
The immaculate white of the egrets contrasts with the grey of the pelicans, the pink, black and white of the painted storks and the ashy blue and black of the stately grey herons.
Around March, a sandbar forms at the mouth of the Kumbukkan oya which feeds the villu through a channel. As the water in the villu rises, the birds fly in and yet another generation is to be born. For miles around one could see flight upon flight of pelicans and painted stork hovering high over the villu just before the nesting season. The bigger birds occupy the larger trees. The herons, egrets and cormorants nest at medium height. In the karang, and hambu bushes just above water level, the teal and water hen make their nests, and yet some others, the black-winged stilts and pheasanttailed jacana add more interest with their floating nests. The green of the trees is splashed with colour and the vivid white of egrets, ibis and spoonbills flecks the scene. The spoonbills are in their breeding plumage with crests of feathers and their white breasts tinted with yellow.
The birds' nests are only an arm's length away. By mid-May and June the height of the nesting season is reached and the atmosphere of the villu is that of a fish market and even smells like one. There is much activity and a bedlam of noise created by hungry fledglings who watch greedily the arrival and departure of their parents. The lagoons nearby are also a hive of activity with parent birds searching for fish to feed the new arrivals. By August the young are almost fledged. They fly from branch to branch and the brave try to fish in shallow waters at the edge of the villu. With the advent of the North East Monsoon in October the villu is desolate again. Thousands of flying foxes (bats) now take over and activity is confined to dusk and dawn.
it is not only the Kumana villu that holds fascinated the keen bird-watcher. The different types of terrain-plains, scrub, jungle, high forest and rocky hills are the habitat of most species of low-country birds. Flycatchers are well represented and the scintillating fantail flycatcher is found in plenty. So is the gorgeous paradise flycatcher. The kingfishers too are found in all their variety. One cannot miss the not-so-common black and white pied kingfisher in the stream that runs through the vast Bagura
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Plains. The raptors of the sea coast are all there. The visiting migrant blue-tailed bee-eater is now a nesting resident.
By August and September a few whiskered and gull-billed terns, sandpipers and plovers are seen. These are the first migrants, the harbingers of the North East Monsoon. By mid-October the first showers are experienced and as the lagoons fill up, the migrants stream in, in their hundreds. Pintail and garganey are seen feeding in the lagoons in large flocks. The diverse species of sandpipers, plovers and stints add to the numbers. The coastal lagoons become a mass of birds. The curlew, whimbrel, godwits, turnstones and ruff and reeve come in smaller numbers, but are well represented; shovellers and teal are few. Snipe and the various types of terns add to the swelling numbers of migrants. Of the forest birds, the Indian pitta, brown shrike, plaintive cuckoo, orange-headed ground thrush and harriers are regular visitors.
From November to March the migrants hold sway in this area and by April they fly back to the nesting grounds in the far North. As the migrants disappear the resident birds put on their brighter nuptial plumage. With the advent of the November rains the opulently plumaged peacocks start their mating dance.
By March-April the nesting season is on for the many resident birds. Not only is their plumage brighter, but the air too is filled with bird song. The larks sing endlessly over the plains. The Ceylon shama's song floats through the air-it is the Island's sweetest songster. Not to be outdone, the magpie robin and iora add their charming calls. The singing goes on and on till July, when the drought is nearly at its height.
Kumana also boasts of having within it one of the Island's rarest birds–the black-necked stork (Xenorhynchus asiaticus asiaticus). It is the largest bird in the Island. Standing about 3 feet, it has a glossy blue-black and white plumage, an enormous bill and bright. scarlet legs.
Along the Kumbukkan oya, the trogan, the black and the blackcapped bulbul, hornbills, orioles, blue nuthatches, grackle and many more fascinating varieties could be seen.
Three miles from the coast of Kumana, is the Kumana tanka large sheet of water partly covered by aquatic vegetation. Every year in June a flock of spoonbills nest on the bare rock in the middle of the tank. Stone plovers and black-winged stilts have also been observed nesting on these rocks. In the floating vegetation of the tank hundreds of pheasant-tailed jacana and purple coot make their
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nests. All forms of aquatic birds have made the tank one of their regular feeding grounds.
Kumana is not just a bird-watcher's paradise. The extensive plains that surround the lagoons are the habitat of hundreds of spotted deer, wild buffalo and wild pig. In and around these plains one could also see elephant and leopard. As one traverses the glades and waterholes Sambur is met singly or in groups of half a dozen or so. They haunt the cooler confines of the forest and water-holes. In the rocky outcrops the sloth bear could be seen. Mainly a nocturnal beast, during the palu season of June and July, it ventures out during the day to feed on the luscious berries. The leopard is met in the rocky areas where it seeks the shelter of the caves. As dusk falls and the diurnal animals take their rest, the jungle becomes active again, the nocturnals are out, foraging for their food. The mongoose and civet cat tread the same paths that were used by other animals during the day. And so it goes on from dawn to dusk to dawn.
Turn now to something different-from wild life to historic ruins which date back to the first and second centuries before Christ. Of particular interest are:
Kudimbigala: Dominating the entrance to the Park is the lofty and impressive rock, Kudimbigala, a mile before you reach Okanda from Panama and on the right side. One cannot but take a second look at this bare peak surrounded by the remains of a dagaba. At the base are a number of caves, with rock inscriptions, now occupied by a sect of hermit monks. •
Kiripokunahela: Two miles from Okanda, (the entrance to the National Park) on the road to Kumana, is a jeep track to the right. Follow it for two miles and you come to an open glade dominated by a lotus-covered pond, Kiri pokuna—a perennial water source for the hordes of animals that are attracted to it during the dry months. Half a mile north of this water-hole is an extensive flat-topped rocky hill-Kiripokunahela. A flight of steps carved on a large boulder leads to what remains of a crumbling dagaba. At the base are five caves with inscriptions and another on a flat rock. A diagrammatic inscription, too, is found here, the only one of its sort known. There are a series of rock waterholes, one of which has a slab of rock thrown across to facilitate the drawing of water.
Bambaragastalawa: Two miles north of Kiripokuna a jeep track terminates at Bambaragastalawa, perhaps the most extensive of the ruined sites in this area. The main rock capped by an unScalable peak is 368 feet high. Spread out in all directions into the
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Surrounding jungles from its base are numerous boulders of immense size beneath most of which are drip-ledged caves where monks meditated ages ago. In one large cave-the main pilimage--is a damaged recumbent image of the Buddha, 8 feet in length. Scattered around are 2 caves with inscriptions. Be wary of hornets at the summit.
Bovattagala: Three miles west of Kumana, near the Kumana wewa, is Bovattagala, a large flat-topped rock. A panoramic view of the Kumana tank is had from this rock. There are a number of caves with inscriptions and 4 others on flat rock, partly damaged. Inside one cave is a rock water pool. Bovattagala also has a cave with entrances at both ends.
Kongala & Nelumpath Pokuna: Four miles from Kumana as the crow flies or 7 miles along a jeep track by-passing Bovattagala is a rocky hill, Kongala, 285 feet high. This outcrop covers an extensive area. There are a number of caves, ten of which have inscriptions. There are also 4 rock inscriptions, partly mutilated. Close by is a large pond, Nelumpath Pokuna, that attracts many wild animals. Near it are the remains of a pillared structure and a stupa with an inscription on flat rock.
Viharagala: On the northern boundary of the Yala East National Park is an extensive area of rock outcrops. Found here is the second largest cave in Sri Lanka. Seven other caves carry inscriptions. This area is largely unexplored. The approach is along a jeep track from Kumana on the banks of the Kumbukkanoya to Mahawelatota, 6 miles from Kumana and then 5 miles east along the Park boundary.
Diulanagoda: Twenty miles up the Kumbukkan oya along the jeep track from Kumana and then half a mile to the North is a gently rising rocky hill, Diulanagoda, surmounted by the crumbling remains of a dagaba. The hill appears to be terraced and has two long flights of steps cut into the rock from, two directions, leading to the summit. There are two drip-ledged caves one of which contains a white limestone image of the Buddha, 8 feet high, the crown touching the cave's roof.
Talaguruhela: Nestling in a cluster of rocky hills Talaguruhela at 894 feet is the highest peak in the range. Seventy six rock-cut steps lead to the summit where one finds the remains of a stupa and a pre-Christian inscription. There are five caves and 6 upright stone pillars near the summit. At the base of this hill are a number of caves with inscriptions, in one is an 8-foot recumbent image of the Buddha, partly damaged. A series of rock pillars and a mal asana (flat table top of rock where flowers are offered) are found. Talaguruhela is 4 miles from Kumbukkan oya or 8 miles from
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Menik ganga, along game trails through mostly unexplored area. The easier of these two routes is from the Kumbukkan oya through Kebilitta, where the jungle shrine of the Goddess Pattini is found. An offering is usually made to appease the goddess when entering her domain to ensure a safe journey. From here Talaguruhela can be reached in a few hours.
Y Yala Strict Natural Reserve: North-west of Block ll and between the Menikganga and the Kumbukkanoya is the Il-sq. mile Yala Strict Natural Reserve. This is the holy of holies of the Yala sanctuary-called by the jungle-men of Kumana the tahanan kele: forbidden forest, where animals live undisturbed by man. Only scientists are allowed to enter its portals and this, too, with the express permission of the Department of Wild Life Conservation.
Here, over 2,000 years ago, was a great civilisation of which only a few delightful names and fewer crumbling relics remain. The vast jungle that succours the animals has grown high and covered yet another civilisation with its shade.
To walk through this uncharted jungle is to pass through high forest and open glade; groves of dimbul trees and scrub; shoulderhigh nelu and sandy beds of ancient irrigation channels; high rock outcrops and lotus covered pools-this is the dry zone jungle at its finest. Yet, finer than the jungle itself are the huge outcrops of rock that reach high above the green canopy towards the starkness of the sky. Of these the finest is the majestic twin-peaked Dematagala on the taller peak of which, 2,000 years ago, a dazzling white stupa stood crowning its Summit.
Dematagala is best reached from the northern boundary of the reserve via lunuatugalge; the climb to its 1,00-foot peak is a task for only the brave. As you stand amidst the ruins of the stupa atop the windswept peak, the wilderness spreads itself out below you.
To the north are the peaks of Talaguruhela and beyond it the striking Chimney Hill Rock (1,056 feet), aptly named, it is to this day a landmark for sailors. Further east is Diulanagoda, by the Kumbukkan oya, on which, like at Talaguruhela, stupas once stood. Almost directly east stands the rock-Athurumiturugala.
At the base of this rock, in the days of yore, was the delightfully named tank-Athurumituru wewa. Traces of its mile-long bund still remain standing in places 25 feet high. Almost hidden by the roots of the jungle are huge interlocking rock slabs with which the
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tank's sluice was built. The tank bed is now a parkland of dimbul trees.
Four miles east is an even greener parkland, the bed of the Mandagala tank. Here, above the dimbul trees rises the striking split-faced Mandagala rock reaching over 500 feet into a blue cloudless sky. This rock is one of four peaks in the Mandagala range. Within this range are at least six caves with pre-Christian inscriptions chiselled on their rock faces. A cave of particular interest was said to be the abode of a blind queen, hence Kanabisunge galge, is in a remarkable state of preservation. The white lime-washed walls of this cave that nestles under a crag 200 feet above the plains, are still intact. So are its two little windows and its door through which bear and leopard now stalk seeking shelter.
The bund of the Mandagala tank runs roughly parallel to the Kumbukkan oya and is, at its northern end, just over a mile away from it. It was the waters of this river which fed the tank through a ten-mile long channel. The rock anicut which diverted the river water into the channel was at Mahawelatota where today you can pitch your tent in what is undoubtedly the finest campsite in the sanctuary. At the southern end of the bund are the relics of a bisokotuwa-stone silt-traps of the ancients.
Mandagala is easily reached by foot along game trails from the Kumbukkan oya or by a rough track (which also leads to Athurumituru ewa) turning north at Nabadagas wewa near Potana on the Yala-Kumana jeep track.
M The Gal Oya National Park had its beginnings in 1950 when a massive dam was thrown across the surging waters of the Galoya creating the vast 35-square-mile Senanayake Samudra. Today, this man-made tank is the heart of the 99-square-mile Gal Oya National Park. A forest of dead trees, which stands in the shallows, are mute evidence of the mighty jungle that had been submerged. This was the jungle the finest of the island's hunters roamed-the great weddahs.
The National Park which snuggles in the lower foothills of Uva is 180 miles from Colombo via Kandy-Mahiyangana-Maha OyaAmparai-Inginiyagala or about 200 miles along the Colombo-Ratnapura-Wellawaya-Siyambalanduwa-Inginiyagala road.
The low hills, valleys and rolling talawa (parkland) criss-crossed with streams makes this park ideal for trekking (wear tough longsleeved shirts and slacks as the tall illuk and mana grass can be hard on bare arms and legs). Reaching above the grass of the tala was are the arulu, bulu, nelli, kahata and gammalu trees interspersed by
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the vivid Flame-of-the-Forest which, when in bloom in the dry months, makes this sanctuary unbelievably beautiful.
Attracted by an unfailing Supply of water and an abundance of fodder large herds of elephants have moved into the park. During the drier months they are best seen from a boat as they feed or drink at the edge of the tank. With the November rains, and until March, they can be seen in large concentrations of around a hundred, near the Amparai airstrip. Elephants are not the park's only attraction. In the grasslands roam herds of wild buffalo, the dreaded adversary of man. Sambur, and occasionally Small herds of deer, may be seen. Leopard and bear inhabit the rocky areas and are rarely met.
The western foothills of the Park are the home of the rare Painted Partridge who add interest to the other ground-nesting birds like the Jungle Bush Quail, Spur and Jungle Fowl. The treetops are a riot of colour with parakeets, minivets and orioles. Over the waters hover the Brahaminy kites, Sea and Tank Eagles, "residents' of the samudra. In the placid waters are often seen huge concentrations (4,000 to 5,000 is not unusual) of cormorants greedily fishing in the undisturbed reaches of the tank.
The most fascinating feature of the park are the rugged ranges of hills that reach high above the rolling plains. The Danigala Range is the finest of all, its peaks rising over 2,000 feet. The veddahs of old chose this range for their home and lived in the caves atop it. The Danigala and Henebedda (in the same range) caves were the homes of the Sitala Wanniya clan of Veddahs.
The talawa country which predominates in this Park invites many a long ramble, particularly, as it has many campsites and places to explore.
Mullegama: It is a lonely outpost of the Department of Wild Life Conservation near the northern boundary of the National Park. Once a flourishing little village, it was abandoned years ago and all that is left now are the jungle covered relics of the past.
Ratugala: Twenty miles from Inginiyagala and six miles from Mullegama, is one of the last outposts of the veddahs who live under very primitive conditions. This small tribe of jungle dwellers have inter-married with the Sinhalese and eke out an existence under the weddah chief, Handura.
Danigala: Four miles from Ratugala along a steep, winding
jungle path Danigala is on the crest of a hill. The caves here were the last abode of the true cave weddahs. The rock pillars strewn
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around may well mean that sometime in the past it was the stronghold of Sinhala chieftains.
Makara: Nine miles by boat from Enginiyagala or four miles on foot from Nilgala. It is one of the best campsites in the Park. This area is rich in bird life, abounds with elephant and is a splendid fishing spot, particularly for mahseer. The huge boulders at the mouth of the Galoya, where it flows into the samudra, makes this area startlingly beautiful.
Nuwaragala: About five miles from Maha Oya on the Maha Oya-Mullegama track is the village of Pollebadda. A guide from this village, preferably a veddah guide, will lead you east, across the road and the Rambukkan oya to Nuwaragala. This ancient rock fortress which rises steeply above the jungle canopy has on its summit a huge pool, hewn out of the rock, which holds water throughout the year. The pillars, rock inscriptions and other ruins indicate that it was once a fortress.
Nilgala: Twelve miles from Bibile driving on to Bulupitiya, turn right and proceed six miles on a jeep track through talawa country to reach Nilgala on the banks of the Galoya. An old circuit bungalow still stands there but is now occupied by officials of the Department of Wild Life Conservation.
The waters of the Galoya surging through the boulder-strewn river bed are a dramatic sight with the twin peaks of Nilgala and Bulupitiya hela as a backdrop. This is a delightful place for a river bath and is also excellent for mahseer fishing.
A four-mile walk across talawa country interspersed with aralu, bulu and nelli trees takes you to Makara.
Elephants, in small groups are often seen in and around Nilgala which is the home of the Painted Partridge. Nilgala is an excellent area for camping.
Potuliyadde: Eight miles from Mullegama along a jungle track running alternately across talawa country and high jungle is Pottuliyadde, an abandoned village. The ruins of an ancient temple with stone pillars and a large platform of hewn rock are found here.
The rushing waters of Kaballabokke oya, a rock-strewn stream, provide sparkling water for the camper. Elephants abound in this area and the waters of the Senanayake Samudra are only a mile and half away.
Two miles to the west are the Henebadda caves, where the weddahs once lived. Potuliyadde is rich in bird life and two of the
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rarer birds, the Painted Partridge and the red-faced Malkoha can be seen here.
Degodawela: A jeep track at the end of the Namaloya bund, on the Inginiyagala-Mullegama road, leads to an excellent campsite four miles away and on the banks of the Samudra.
The sight that greets you is astonishingly beautiful. The waters of the Senanayake Samudra stretch out as far as the eye can see and in the distance rise the lofty peaks of Wadinagala, Ulgola and Guruhela, with the Bibile range of hills still further beyond. In the shallows of the tank bed crowded together are the skeletons of trees that were submerged when the reservoir was built. Large herds of elephants and buffalo are often seen here.
Gonagola: There are two small caves among the boulders in Kotmale Colony, about 3 miles east of Kohobana junction on the Amparai-Gonagolla road. One of these caves has paintings of a female dancer and of a man, holding a flower in his left hand, opposite her. The colours used are red, yellow, green, black and white. Near this cave are two ponds and the remains of a dagaba. There is a moonstone near the dagaba.
Malayadi Caves: About 5 of the many caves on this hill have inscriptions and in one of the caves are weddah drawings. To get there, turn east at the Hingurana junction on the Amparai-Siyambalanduwa road.
Ganegama Vihare: On a hill near Wadi nagala is a large dripledged cave with a brick-paved floor. Near the cave are a moonstone, guardstone and balustrade stones. Ruins of an ancient structure and potsherds are found at Tambalenda close by.
Rajagala: About two miles north of the Navakiri aru tank, to the left, along the Amparai-Maha Oya road, is a forested hill with many drip-ledged caves. Some of the caves have walls in front, some have frescoes and many rock inscriptions. On the plateau at the summit of the hill are ruins of a building at the entrance of which are balustrade stones and guardstones with naga motifs. Here are also the ruins of two dagabas and an unfinished Statue of the Buddha. Two massive stone bowls, which were probably used to store water, lie near a stone drain. Of the many Brahmi inscriptions, one refers to a dagaba in which are enshrined the relics of the Arahat Mahinda.
The Uda Walawe Nationał Park, a || 19-square-mile sanctuary
encloses within its recently declared boundaries a vast 3-squaremile reservoir fed by the 83-mile long Walawe ganga. The park is
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a convenient 105 miles from Colombo along Route A2 turning right at Pelmadulla onto Route A 18 and left at Timbul ketiya.
The area was declared a National Park in 1972 despite its paucity of wild life and many villagers living within its boundaries. This Park is not recommended for the observation of wild life except, perhaps, for birds and butterflies.
There are, however, a few places along the upper reaches of the Walawe river which are still forested and make good campsites such as Ranagala, Timbirimankada, Maw Ara and Palugaswewa.
Ranagala : Turn left at the 7th mile along the Timbul ketiyaTanamalwila road. The jeep track leads to Sinnukgala. Turn right at the T-junction, half a mile before the village is reached, drive two miles along this track, then turn left. Ranagala is two miles ahead.
Situated on the river bank, Ranagala is accessible only during the dry months. The clear river water and cool forest cover makes this an ideal campsite. The area is good for bird-watching and at the height of the drought elephants occasionally amble down to the river to drink.
Timbirimankada: A pleasant campsite particularly for ornithologists, as many varieties of birds are seen here. It is two miles beyond the little village of Sinnukgala.
Mau Ara: An abandoned timber wadiya (camp) on the edge of this stream makes a good campsite. The area is rich in bird life and is reached by taking the Sinnukgala jeep track, turning east at the third mile. The Mau Ara is four miles beyond.
Palugaswewa: Approached via the Pelmadulla-Embilipitiya road turning east either at Pallewela or Pallebedde to Galpaya. The tank is 5 miles beyond along a dry weather track.
The area around the tank is good for camping and bird-watching. This is as good a starting-off point as any for hikes through the National Park traversing dammana parklands, criss-crossed by streams, in which the medicinal trees aralu, bulu and nelli grow.
Not far from Palugaswewa is Handagiriya, an old village with the ruins of a Buddhist shrine said to have been the repository of the Tooth Relic centuries aga.
in the tanks that dot the Uda Walawe basin there is an abundance of aquatic bird life. The best places for bird-watching are the Magam, Habaralu and the Kiri ibban tanks. During the migrant season, November to April, the bird population is enhanced with visitors from India and beyond the Himalayas. This is the best time of the year to visit these tanks.
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Bungalows - Wilpattu National Park
Maradanmaduwa is the oldest in the park. Now converted into a visramasalawa-a traveller's rest-a minimum of 35 persons can be provided accommodation at Re. I per person, per night. Situated nine miles from the main gate and by the Maradanmaduwa tank it is excellent for bird-watching. During the dry months of August and early September elephants often come to the tank to drink in the evenings.
Log Cabin-a small, comfortable two-roomed cabin is also situated close to the Maradanmaduwa tank.
Manikapolauttu-the best and most popular bungalow in the park. Centrally situated it is ringed by nearby villus a convenient distance away. Sited by a small narrow tank with its fair share of resident' crocodiles who, however, permit bathing This bungalow is much sought after by those who like to potter around close to home' and watch from its broad balcony the wild life that teems around it. It is miles from Maradanmaduwa.
Kaliviilu-five miles from Manikapolauttu and sixteen miles from Maradanmaduwa. Situated on the edge of a vast villu in which during the dry months elephants come to drink almost every evening. "Resident leopards frequent the vicinity of the bungalow and have been known to make their "kill a telephoto distance away. Two miles beyond the bungalow to the west is the Great North Road which in the days gone by linked Puttalam with Mannar and beyond to Jaffna.
Kokmottai-this A-frame bungalow is situated on the banks of the Moderagam aru, the northern boundary of the National Park. A 45-minute drive from Manikapolauttu, this bungalow is isolated from the much-visited centre of the park. Splendid location for the keen angler-ten-pound walaya have been claimed '-and for kids who can spend most of their time in the rock pools of the river.
Talawila-a comfortable, well-designed bungalow which over-looks a largish wila from which it derives its name. Fourteen miles from Maradanmaduwa it is approached throygh Nelunwila and Panikkar villu. Once much sought after by hunters, it is situated in what was the South intermediate Zone. Four miles beyond is Pomparippu.
Panikkarvillu-is a new bungalow situated near a game trail leading into the villu; twelve miles from Maradanmaduwa. Available for tourist bookings. '
Manawila-situated on the edge of a villu where elephants have recently been seen. Beyond it are some of the less frequented villus like Kayamottai and Karavillu. Fourteen miles from Maradanmaduwa, it is available for tourist bookings.
Bungalows-Ruhunu National Park
Palatupana-situated near the Warden's office. Overlooks a recently restored tank. An old circuit bungalow, it has one large room and a spacious verandah which could be used as a dormitory at night.
Mahaseelawa-three miles inside the Park, nestles at the foot of dunes frequented by elephant and sambur. The lagoon to the right of the bungalow teems with bird life and often the impressive black-necked stork is seen here. Of an evening it is not uncommon to see alone elephant walk past the bungalow to drink at Angunakolawala-a water-hole a stone's throw away. The view of the sea from your bedroom window takes your breath away.
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Buttuwa-is the most sought after in the Ruhunu National Park. Eight miles from the gate it perches high on a rock promontory by the edge of the sea. A small water-hole a very short distance away attracts many animals whom you can watch as you lounge on the verandah. Elephants regularly visit the bungalow keeper's vegetable patch, which is by the bedroom window. On moonlit nights a stroll up to the rock will be rewarded by a stupendous view of the Buttuwa plains,
Patanangala-situated on the edge of the beach that fringes the Patanangala bay. Fresh fish could be bought from the bustling migrant fishing village close by from November to April. This bungalow is available for tourist bookings.
Yala-Twelve miles from the main gate, is on the banks of the Menik Ganga. River bathing here is excellent and children, in particular, enjoy themselves thoroughly. However, bathing in this river should be avoided when it is in spate. From the upstair windows of this bungalow elephants, wild boar and deer are often seen roaming the plains around.
Thalgasmankade-is situated on the edge of the Menik Ganga a few miles upstream of Yala. Difficult to get to during the rains, it is surrounded by high trees which unfortunately keep the breeze away. Mosquitoes are a nuisance here and you will have to sleep under nets. Available for tourist bookings.
Heenwewa-situated near the Yala-Situlpavuva road a little over an hour's drive from the main gate. The bungalow overlooks Heenwewa restored some years ago. During the drought this tank is often the only source of water for stricken animals. In August and September, just before the monsoon breaks, deer migrate here in their hundreds. During these months herds of elephants also come to this tank to drink.
Bungalows-Yala East National Park
Okanda-situated by the sea vhere fishing is rewarding. Kumana villu which is the main attraction of the area is twelve miles away and is close enough for daily visits. The country between Okande and Kumana, including the vast Bagura plains, is always interesting.
Tunmulla-situated by a small triangular-shaped villu a little beyond the Bagura plains--is a convenient base for bird-watchers. Kotilindawala--a waterhole, less than two hundred yards away-teems with crocodiles, who during the hot afternoons of the dry months, bask on its banks.
Bungallow-Gall Oya National Park
Ekgal Aru-Large 3-room bungalow which overlooks the Ekgal aru tank which provides good fishing and bathing. Elephants often come down to this tank to drink.
Reservation of Park bungalows
All reservations have to be made at the office of the Department of Wild Life Conservation in Colombo.
Residents of the lsland can reserve any bungalow, other than those reserved for tourists, 3 months in advance. The bungalows reserved for tourists are, Patanangala and Talgasmankade in Yala, Panikkarvillu and Manavita in Wilpattu, which could be reserved 10 months ahead and payment made in foreign currency. Residents, however, can book these bungalows one week ahead if no prior reservation has been made, on payment of the normal fees.
Reservations have to be made for a minimum of five persons and a maximum period of five days. The bungalows can be occupied from 12 noon on the first day and vacated by 1 a.m. on the last day.
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Beds, mattresses, pillows and mosquito nets are provided but visitors should take their own linen. Foreign visitors are supplied with linen on extra payment. The bungalows are comfortable, airy and have spacious verandahs. Water on tap and modern drainage facilities are available. Refrigerator and pressure lamps are provided.
Visitors should take their own comestibles which will be cooked for them by the bungalow-keeper and his assistant. It is customary to provide for the bungalow-keeper, his assistant and the tracker as well.
Accommodation is limited to 6 to 8 persons depending on the size of the bungalow. A limited number of additional persons may be accommodated at an extra charge. Children under 2 years of age pay half rates. A driver and a servant are accommodated free, but must pay the Park dues.
Camp sites-Wilpattu National Park
Makalanmaduwa-beautifully situated on the banks of the Kala oya. Excelent for fishing. Difficult to get to owing to many stream-crossings.
Kattakandalkulam-twenty miles from Maradanmaduwa is situated on the banks of the Moderagam aru. Good fishing.
Camp sites-Ruhunu National Park
Kosgasmankade (Block I) is situated on the banks of the Menik Ganga and is a very popular site.
Rugantota (Block I) is also on the banks of the Menik Ganga 6 miles upstream from Yala. A quiet place, away from it all.
Banawelkema (Block 3) is 6 miles due north from Rugamtota and is beautifully sited at the base of a rocky outcrop. Good drinking water is had from a kema on the rock and a lotus-covered pool lower down.
Pilimagala (Block 3) is about two miles beyond Banawelkema. A fine cam site which was popular during the days when shooting was allowed. -
Pahala Pothana (Block 2) nine miles from the Menik Ganga and a short distance off the track leading to Kumana. A well provides good drinking water. Avoid camping here during the Kataragama season as pilgrims to this shrine from the east coast tend to make it rather crowded.
Kingstrand Huts: Two aluminium huts, sited near the Palatupana tank, are available for large parties-each hut accommodating twenty persons. Visitors are expected to bring their bedding and do their cooking.
Camp sites-Yala East National Park
Bagura-Camp site with well and toilet. Good in dry weather.
Edakumbukka-about three miles up river from Kumana village. Good bathing in river and undisturbed by day visitors.
Madamatota-former crossing point to Block 2. Rather too close to Kumana villu for peaceful camping.
Mahawelatota-sixteen miles up river-the most beautiful camping place in the area, situated by slab rocks on the Kumbukkan oya.
Galamuna-fine site by an ancient anicut, but plenty of mosquitoes owing to stagnant pools.
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Bookings for campsites should be made at the office of the Department of Wild Life Conservation in Colombo. A fee of Rs. 2.50 per person per day is levied.
Photographic sites: Wilpattu National Park:
Cheena Uttu, Dangaha Uraniya, Ochappu Kallu, Menikrala Uraniya, Orugala, Kimbulaketugala, Maila vila, Eranapala mottai, Etambegaha Uraniya, and Alam vilu.
Ruhunu National Park
Jamburagala Welmal kema Moderagala.
Gal Oya National Park
Makara Kossapola
A photographic site may be reserved by payment of Rs. 10/- either at the office in Colombo of the Department of Wild Life Conservation or to the Warden of the National Park.
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CHAPTER 2
Elephas maximus maximus
IF the Lion is King in Africa and the Reindeer in the Arctic, then surely the Elephant is monarch of all Asia. We can go further than that: the elephant has become part of the region's culture. Especially is this true of Sri Lanka.
Whenever the elephant has been seen it has stirred people's imagination as no other living thing has done; it fascinated them, served them and even entertained them. As Plutarch said 'What is bigger than an elephant? Yet this is also become man's plaything and a spectacle at public solemnities; and it even learns to skip, dance and kneel." In the long history of evolution no animal has seemed to be so endowed with a combination of characteristics that have baffled man's understanding, and from this condition have arisen fantastic tales and far-fetched stories which have unfortunately clouded the true personality of this amiable giant.
But since the day, over 2,000 years ago, when scholars raved that "the elephant is a vast creature whose body has the strength often bulls', science has inexorably unravelled some of its "mysterious' attributes not detracting in any way from the uniqueness of its Creation.
its position in the evolutionary system is equally distinctive. This colossal creature has no close evolutionary antecedents save the Hyrax or Coney which is, paradoxically, an animal as small as a
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rabbit. A whole branch of the "Tree of Life' is reserved for the order Proboscides-animals which possess a proboscis or trunk.
indeed, the trunk personifies the elephant. It must needs be so, for it is the most important organ of food collection. In scientific parlance it can be said that it is because the elephant has such an efficient feeding mechanism that it has been able to attain its huge proportions. The proboscis, which is an "enormously elongated nose and upper lip with appropriate muscle and sensitive grasping tip is capable of reaching the taller branches of a tree or of siphoning water from a narrow rock waterhole. The trunk works anything up to 8 hours a day gathering nearly 400 pounds of food an adult elephant requires; it has also to draw up, perhaps, 40 gallons of water which is squirted into the mouth (for drinking) or over its broad back (for dousing).
Ten animals each consuming about 400 pounds of leaf matter, would surely eat themselves out of house and home. Elephants prevent such a crisis in two ways. They eat not only leaves but the bark, twigs and branches as well and particularly relish thick-stemmed grasses, reeds and sedges of the waterholes. In this way, even though they are wasteful feeders, the volume of food consumed, in relation to weight is such that the destruction of the habitat is precluded. Nature also sees to it that the elephant migrates from place to place, often over great distances, allowing each feeding ground time to regenerate.
This partiality for coarse food has got the elephant into a different kind of mess. Naturally the food eaten by an animal has to be delivered to the stomach. in a state acceptable to the digestive juices. A leopard, for instances, will cut up flesh into small strips with the help of its molar teeth (at the back of the jaw) modified in such a way that the molars of the upper and lower jaws act like a pair of Scissors. In the elephant too, it is these molar or grinding teeth that have been adapted to crush and pound the tough woody stems. AS there is so much work for these teeth over the years, nature has ensured that instead of all the molars being used at once, only one set should be used at a time. To achieve this, other teeth (except the tusks or tushes) have been forfeited and a single molar developed to occupy practically the whole length of the jaw. At a rough estimate each such set of molars is expected to last 5 to 20 years. The worn out molars are then pushed forward by the development of the succeeding ones. After the third and last set of molars have worn out, the ill-fed, aged elephant thinks, perhaps, of death. Allowing a few years for the three sets of milk teeth, research has now shown that an elephant can live for about 65 to 70 years or three "molar years. This has put paid to the tales of elephants living for eons. As late as the nineteenth century, authorities
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like Sanderson, claimed elepnants lived for 50 years. Such figures have now been discredited.
Which brings us to the question of "the place where elephants go to die'. It does not take much ingenuity to conclude that an animal with worn molars will try to survive on semi-solid or nearliquid food. Aged elephants move towards water where they are able to pick up soft succulent reeds and grasses. Even a wounded and weakened wild elephant will instinctively head for water which both cleanses the wounds as well as prevents maggot infestations and provides an abundance of sustenance. So, if you believe in elephant graveyards took out for them close to water
To appreciate the true stature of the elephant one has to watch a herd in the wild, where in their own element and amongst their own they display the true quality of their social life. Elephants are gregarious, usually moving in small, well-knit family groups; two or three families sometimes coalesce to form larger herds at feeding grounds or watering places. A family rarely exceeds 5 and within it are fathers, mothers, aunts, brothers and sisters. The head of the family for purposes of discipline, movement to food and water and such activity, is an elderly female. (A strong bull usually looks after the security angle protecting the family from unwelcome guests and flirtatious 'youth').
Members of a herd show a great sense of attachment and affection for one another, particularly for the very young babies. Mothers and aunts always keep guard over them and at the least sound of disturbance or danger emit a warning call and hurriedly huddle the babies under their belies. At such times the other members who may be feeding or gamboling a little distance away respond to the alarm and return post-haste to station. It is only after the safety signal is given that they resume their earlier activities. The leader having given the alarm may decide to move the herd to a safer place. At such times it is fascinating to watch how she directs and supervises the manoeuvre. She will summon a responsible adult and "instruct her to lead the others away. Instinctively the herd follows the temporary leader with the bigger females flanking the babies protectively as they move away. Only when they are a safe distance from the source of danger does the leader herself move to safety.
To achieve such smooth response, social animals have evolved many means of communication centred around their better developed senses. For example such birds, as cranes and storks with exceptionally good eyesight, will look out for visual signals; Elephants, who have an acute sense of hearing, often resort to auditory signals. To discuss the whole repertoire of elephant "language' is beyond
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the scope of this chapter, yet some of the phrases' are worth knownig. There is the shrill piercing sound described as trumpeting which comes in two different volumes: a mild shriek-like trumpet perhaps warns of danger; while a loud, blood-curdling one is usually a prelude to a furious charge. Then there is the stomach rumbling produced by a rapid movement of gases in the abdomen, which again is variable: a low rumbling may denote pleasure as when an elephant greets an old acquaintance, or a series of louder rumbles could indicate that an animal is cornered and unable to get out of trouble. A third sound is a "woosh ' produced by blowing air through the trunk and is generally made when an elephant is surr prised or when it wants to warn an intruder of its presence.
Elephants rarely charge man unless they are provoked, pestered or taken by surprise. An elephant about to charge, stamps his forelegs and swings his large ears forward. A terrifying trumpet is followed by a deep-throated roar and the heart-stopping charge of the irate animal. Some say that if the charging elephant curls its trunk into his mouth, protecting its sensitive tip, he really means business. More often than not elephants fake a charge to scare intruders away; a loud shout will usually stop it in its tracks.
The charge of an elephant against puny man, pales into insignificance when a tusker charges a rival bull. This is indeed a sight to behold. The very ground trembles as he charges, screaming out his terrifying challenge, pausing only to rip branches of trees or to thrust his tusks into ant-hills and hurl them high into the air. This is the tusker at his majestic best.
Elephants, with highly developed powers of scent and hearing, have surprisingly poor eyesight. An elephant can barely discern anything beyond about 30 yards unless it is large, erect and moving. They also appear to be able to pick up vibrations through their mighty legs or by placing their sensitive trunks on the ground. Thus, when suddenly confronted by a wild elephant and the wind direction favours you, it is best to freeze in position and very slowly squat as low as possible till the animal moves away.
The manner. in which wild elephants approach a waterhole is almost a ritual. The task of conducting the herd safely to water is entrusted to one or two scouts. They move ahead of the herd and when close to the waterhole do not rush towards it but would, as it were, pretend not to have seen the water at all. They continue to feed at the forest edge, testing the wind from time to time. If all is well they break cover and again stay motionless scanning the surroundings. When they do enter the water it is done as casually as possible. Many minutes of absolute silence elapse before the rest of the herd follow. To watch elephants sporting
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in water is one of the highlights of elephant-watching. The squealing of the babies; adults childishly tumbling; teenagers pulling each other's tails and trunks; the splashing and cavorting all combine to give the observer an unforgettable experience.
After their drink, bath and aquatic romp the refreshed animals are in high spirits. Out of the water they continue their play, fitful love-making, and other recreations before "powdering themselves with dust as insurance against the bites of noxious insects. Suddenly, as silently as they came, they are gone and the curtain falls on yet another facet of elephant life.
There are, of course, numerous other rewards awaiting the patient student of these pachyderms. The late Fairfield Osborne, an American Zoologist of renown, spent a lifetime studying the Proboscidea and yet was unable to cover some aspects, especially their origins. E.P. Gee of India was still studying ways and means of conserving the Asian elephant at the time of his death just a few years ago. In Sri Lanka, experts still find it difficult to interpret certain behavioral patterns which have been observed from time immemorial and any attempt to discuss everything about elephants would, therefore, require an elephantine encyclopaedia
However, it is unfair to pass on without reference to the elephant's biggest headache. This is the curious, indefinable malady known as must, which manifests itself once a year and turns Samuel Butler's "docile and ingenuous elephant' into a mammoth Jekyll. Told simply, must is the period during which the temporal glands situated between eye and ear, are activated and secretes a liquid. When the gland is quiescent its position may be located by its duct which opens to the outside by means of an oblique slitless than an inch long. The swelling of the gland is caused by certain physiological changes which in turn are dictated, perhaps, by the animal's sense of well-being. Must invariably afflicts males around their nineteenth year when the exudate is nothing more than a few drops which barely moisten the skin below the gland. Three years later the story could be very different, with the gland's secretion streaming down the cheeks and the elephant ill-tempered and, in the case of tame ones, disobedient and embarrassingly truculent. Sinhalese mahouts will even at this stage try to control their charges in the belief that the animal is really dangerous only when the secretion drips into the mouth. This is not quite true as many mahouts have discovered to their cost.
interesting to note: the Sinhala Hasti Sastraya (System of Elephant Lore) claims that the mahout controls his charge by the stimulation of certain nerve centres or pressure points. Of these 2 are known as nila and 60 of them as anila. Deraniyagala remarks:
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' Pressure on nila, unaided by voice or gesture, suffice to induce an elephant to complete any type of work the mahout desires, and an expert by pressing nila with his feet can cause an elephant's hind quarters to collapse.' The ankussa (goad) is wielded by the mahout to stimulate these pressure points and not as is often thought to cause pain to the animal.
Whilst on the topic of tame elephants, mention must surely be made of a technique of capture unique to this Island. In the Northeastern and North-western sectors of the island live a daring race of elephant-men called Pannikkians. These trappers, who wear the unusual sarval, a "wraparong ' shorty-pyjama, are that brave and skilful that they are able to pursue their quarry on foot and noose a hind leg of a wild elephant as it crashes through the thick jungle. The manda, leather rope, they use has the horns of a deer attached to its free end. The horn gets snared in the roots of a tree and brings the headlong flight of the elephant to an abrupt halt. Within minutes the trappers surround it and secure it with more ropes.
Though their family ties are very strong, elephants often practice self-exile. Ageing males detach themselves from the herd and opt to lead a solitary life. Whether this is a kind of "retirement scheme or whether it is Nature's way of ensuring that only young, virile males should fertilize the females is not known yet; but it may explain the occurrence of lone, valge kotas (short tails; abbreviated in battle) like Yala's "Buttuwa Bills' and East Africa's "Ahmed' of Mount Meru National Park-extraordinary examples of lone bulls. They need not always, as earlier believed, be vanquished elders; for a loner may still rejoin a herd and even flirt, and mate, before seeking seclusion again.
The mention of East Africa reminds us that the Asian elephant has a cousin on that distant continent. It also provokes the question: What is the home range of the living members of the Proboscidea?
Hannibal's African elephants notwithstanding, it is the Indian variety that has immortalised these majestic animals. The taxonomist has today quite rightly corrected "Indian' to "Asian' as this species occurs naturally from Sri Lanka, India and Burma southwards to Thailand, Malaysia and,Sumatra and eastwards through Cambodia as far as the borders of the Schezuan forests of China. It is known to the scientific world as Elephas maximus, and in Sri Lanka even more majestically as Elephas maximus maximus.
Deraniyagala, who made extensive studies of the Asian elephant,
assigns two sub-species or varieties of Elephas maximus to Sri Lanka. He leads convincing evidence for the recognition of the marsh
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elephant or vil-aliya (Elephas maximus vilaliya) which lives in the flood-plains of the Mahaveli ganga. To the layman, the chief point of distinction is the Marsh elephant's relatively enormous proportions.
It is also an interesting fact that the Asian elephant was introduced to Science through a description of the 'Ceylon' elephant by Linnaeus in 1758.
it must be some other greatness than mere size that justifies the epithet 'maximus' for the comparatively small Asian elephant as Loxodonta africana on the other hand, is by far the larger. The African elephant is today confined to the African continent where it is restricted in its distribution to the East, Central and Southern regions. Two varieties are known-the larger 2 feet high inhabiting the plains and the smaller and slimmer bush elephant which lives in high forest. −
It is natural to compare the characteristics of similar animals so widely separated geographically. One can of course, quite easily distinguish the two forms by their physical appearance. The African elephant is tall, angular and hump-backed, whereas the handsome Asian has a rounder and well-proportioned body and its back is more saddle-like. The ears of the former are large, triangular, leathery flaps, differing considerably from the smaller, shapelier ones of the Asian. There is no question about who is taller, for the African record of 4 feet is head and shoulders above the average
Asian's 0 feet.
Far more statistical work has centred round the Asian elephant. For instance there are indices available for relating height and age and weight as the figures given below will show.
Height Age Weight 3 feet up to year 2 сwt.
4 feet to 3 years | 0 cwt.
5 feet 3 to 5 years 5 cwt. to I ton 6 feet 5 to 10 years /2 to 2 tons 7 feet 10 to 5 years 2 1/2 to 3 tons 8 feet 5 to 20 years 3 to 4 tons 9 feet 20 to 25 years 4 to 5 1/2 tons 0 feet over 25 years Constant
When tracking elephants in the wild it is useful to remember that by measuring a footprint (foreleg) and multiplying its circumference by two you get the approximate height of your quarry even before you see it
Another significant comparison is that of the tusks. The tusks (which are really elongated teeth) of the African elephant surpass
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those of their realitions in Asia not only in size but also in the frequency of occurrence; both male and female of the former species bear tusks while only the male Asian elephant carries tusks.
Talking of tusks one may well ask why there are so many tuskless males in this country. It is known that only about 7 per cent are tuskers; but there is apparently no valid reason for the paucity. One theory is that tuskers are systematically poached for the ivory they bear. Others say that since our elephants do not feed on the bark of trees there is no need to develop tusks. This latter is untenable as an acquired character does not atrophy in such a short space of time. As, in Linnaeus' paper mentioned earlier he says inter alia, “Dentes Laniares Superiores exserti (Ebur)” which means that the "Ceylon' elephant possesses protruding elongated upper incisor teeth (of ivory).
And what of elephant babes? The delightful pink-flushed little elephant that is born after a gestation period of 20-22 months, weighs about 80 pounds and is only 28' to 30' tall. It is covered with soft hair. Its trunk, which is not quite necessary so early, is hardly 8' in total length. A more curious, amusing and endearing baby is rarely met with in the animal kingdom. As in human society, the birth of a baby brings great rejoicing to the family; an expectant mother is cared for by other females and when "labour' actually commences, a protective cordon is formed and the herd stands by till the baby is delivered. It is known that other females are stimulated by the event and may come into milk. What is quite evident, however, is that the herd is proud of the newcomer and Fife centres round it for a few days.
While it is true that the study of the elephant in the wild solved many mysteries, it was its domestication that gave Man further understanding of its complex nature. It was the captive animal that provided the first clues of an elephant's intelligent behaviour or of such admirable qualities as friendship, courage and loyalty. It is the possession of these assets that has enabled the elephant to proudly stand beside his master in wartime and in peace, in temple and palace and as a worker in field and forest.
Having given you this insight into the life of this majestic animal is it difficult to imagine how it has got so involved with our own 2
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CHAPTER 3
Grass for your feet... under canvas
CAMPING has many thrills, many compensations for the little discomforts that go with it. Firstly, there is the thrill of breaking away from the routine, the humdrum, the daily round of work and people. Secondly, it permits leisured observation and study of an area; such observation could never be possible from, for instance, the window of a passing car. Thirdly, it creates a most healthy feeling of 'belonging', of being part of the land and the people. It also forces realisation that there, in the outback ', are people, perhaps of the same race and clan, separated, nonetheless, by cphemeral differences of language or culture, occupation or behaviour.
A camper who is alert to his surroundings, who keeps eyes and cars wide open, could learn from a single outing as much as he would from a dozen books.
What are the essentials to be determined before striking out for a few days under canvas? It may be well to bear these suggestions in mind.
Decide what sort of country you want to camp in; the choice of location should also bear some relation to the choice of Season.
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Most parts of the hill country are ideal most of the time, but the hills could prove very uncomfortable during the rainy season, The plains are attractive, too, but the height of the dry season could cave you without water, while at other times you might find yourself flooded out, particularly if you have pitched camp near a river in the dry zone.
Running Water is essential for more reasons than need be enumerated. In the absence of a pipe-borne watcr supply, camp by a stream, river or pool.
Before pitching camp, find out whose grass you propose to tread on; there should be no problem in the open plains, but in the hill country much of the land that does not belong to the state is owned by the tea or rubber estates.
Care should also be taken to avoid pitching a tent under coconut trees. Not a few campers have suffered injury from falling coconuts. In the hill country, a site should be picked that would not subject the tent to buffering by winds that tend to whip up at night, while in the rainy season loose soil, particularly on the slope of a hill, should be avoided.
Though the creatures of the Wild do not, as a rule, pose serious problems to campers, it is always advisable to take certain precautionary measures when camping out in the Jungles. One inflexible rule is that you should select your camp sitc at least one hour before sun down. Bearing this in mind, look out for your site as you and the afternoon wear out.
Look first for Water, particularly in the dry zone jungles. Ideal, of course, arc rivers or jungle streams but these are sometimes hard to come by. Kends, rock water holes, are also good, particularly as they are generally on high ground, the best terrain for camping in the jungles, anyway. One other source of water rarely used by campers is the invisible 'dune water". At the foot of most of the dunes and by the brackish water kalapuwas, on the South-eastern Coast of the Island, this water is freely available. The Way to get at it is to scoop the sand away gently, very gently, until the first trickle of water appears. As soon as it does, stop. Let the water fill the hole you have dug and then drink deeply of it. When digging for dune water make certain that you, in your anxiety, do not dig too deep and beyond the first trickle. If you do, the water will be brackish and Indrinkable, Rivers and water-holes tea that there are big trees around; it is best to camp under one. Never camp in scrub, apart from being uncomfortable it is dangerous.
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Camping by a river or water-hole is certainly the most contfortable. A word of warning though. Never set up your camp on or near a game-trail leading to the river or water-hole. At a waterhole set up camp across the water and up-wind of the game-trail. Your scent will thus be carried to the animals who always travel into the wind when conting to drink. Your scent will keep them away, Avoid, if possible, camping on the river bed itself; rains in tho far-away hills may well bring down a flood of water which could, to say the least, be disconcerting. Besides, the pestiferous sand flies will drive you stark rawing mad at night. If you must sleep on a river bed daub yourself with an insect repellent-citronella oil is just as good. Dried cakes of elephant dung set alight or the scrub plant maduru-tasa tossed on the campfire keeps mosquitoes away. Another menace is the black kada-the sting of one of these big ants will remind you that you have to keep the sleeping area, of your camp, clean and well away from your "kitchen and dining room". Wood ash, from your kitchen or camp fire, sprinkled around your sleeping area will keep these kadas well at bay. Remember that you must always clear at least 10 feet of jungle around your camp, this helps to keep your site free of 'such that Creep
and Crawl..."
All washing and ablutions must be downstream of your camp site when camping by a river. It is most convenient, therefore, that you set up your kitchen downstream as well. If the river is dry except for little puddles, do not drink from them. The weddah newer does and it is not because he sees his reflection in the water either-instinct tells him that this water, open to the air, is polluted. Dig into the river bed and let water filter through-this Is Pure water. At kemas and water-holes you hawe no choice. If no water-purifying tablets are available look for ingin seeds, Crushed and dropped into a container it will clear the Water for you. A handkerchief placed over the mouth of a mugi will help keep tadpoles out if you are thirsty enough to drink in a hurry
A few words about your Camp fire. First, clear a place round the fire. Use dry hard-wood logs they will keep alight through the night. Stack the logs lengthwise in the direction of the wind and set alight the end furthest away from the wind, this will give you a slow steady "kindle'. The fussy add the dried branches of the agil tree to the fire. The odour it gives is fresh and invigorating. Always sleep down-wind of the fire, this gives you two-fold protection, your scent on one side and the fire on the other. It is well worth your while taking a lot of pains over your camp fire, make sure that you have a good 'kindle' going and you can be assured of a peaceful night's sleep. Remember of course to douse your fire when you နိffi, camp the next morning.
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Now that you have got your camp fire going you will, Surely, be ready to eat. But, of course, you have to cook your meal first and this is no great problem if you have planned your cuisine carefully. Plan well ahead before setting off to your camp site--quite a few of the preliminaries could be accomplished most conveniently and effectively at home.
A You would of course know how many there will be in camp and what their "capacity' for food is like-add 50% to it and you won't be far wrong Decide on whether rice and curry is to be your staple fare or what the alternatives would be. For beginners, a good suggestion is to pre-plan each meal for each day. If this is done you will be quite certain of an adequate Supply of rations and, besides, you could add variety to your meals that would be impossible otherWISe.
There will be no deep-freeze in camp and so the "keeping" qualities of your food, in particular meat and fish, becomes a headache. Tinned fish and meat could be carried, but is bulky and rarely satisfying. The ubiquitous "roast beef", is one way of carrying your meat along with you but try to finish it off in the first day or two, preferably "devilled in chilli powder and sliced onions. Pickled pork or fish-moju-also keeps very well and so does the delicious karukkal, lean pork of the wild boar, which is preserved in its own palu-saturated fat. Probably the most convenient, though, is to carry ready-made 'dry' curries with excellent keeping qualities like ambul tiyal-beef takes this treatment quite as well. as fish, however much the fact may surprise you-or Padre curry of pork or duck.
Ambul Tiyal
2 pounds Balaya-Skipjack-cut into I" cubes. Wash well, dry and sprinkle with salt.
Grind finely together:
6 pieces of goraka (gamboge), pre-soaked for half an hour 20-30 pepper corns
2" piece of cinnamon
2 thsp. dry chilli Powder
8 pips garlic
Temperadu (fry) in very hot coconut oil :
A sprig of karapincha (Murraya koenigu) 3" piece of rampe (Pandanus latifolia) 4tbsp. red onions thinly sliced.
Into temperadu add the ground ingredients and - when the smell becomes overpoweringly appetising
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add the cubed fish and allow to fry. When deep brown add a cup of water and allow to simmer on very low heat, till dry
Use only an earthenware utensil and a wooden spoon when cooking this curry. This is most important.
Padre Curry of Pork-or Duck
Use 2 pounds of lean pork, cut into is cubes, wash and dry.
Rub weII into pork a mixture of:
2 thsp. powdered coriander 2 tsp. powdered suduru (White Cummin: Cuminum
cyminum) 2 tsp. powdered kalu duru (Black Cummin: Nigella sativa)
thsp. powdered dry chilli l tsp. powdered cinnamon 4 pieces goraka ground to a paste in 2 oz. vinegar 4tbsp. finely sliced red onions 4 large green chillies cut into strips 4 lime or lemon leaves slightly bruised l tsp. Sugar-optional 2 tsp. chopped garlic 2 tsp. chopped ginger 2 ins. sera (Cymbopogon citratus)
rampe and karapincha salt to taste
Leave for at least 2 hours Set aside 2-3 ozS. good Coconut Arrack for use later.
This curry is best cooked in an earthenware chatty with a gini kabala-a chatty with hot coals in it-for a lid, like when baking hoppers. As an alternative it could be cooked in a casserole dish for about two hours in a low oven. Lift the cover and let the curry dry for a further half hour or so. When the lid is lifted add the coconut arrack and stir gently. -
This curry could be kept for about four days and needs only to be warmed in a temperadu of onions and karapincha to make a very tasty dish.
When using duck, preferably wild duck, joint the bird
carefully, weigh and adjust the ingredients accordingly. If the bird is tough keep for at least three hours in the oven.
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A word of timely warning about ambul tiyal. Do not use a metal spoon to serve it or use a metal container to carry it in as it will go 'bad' on you pretty soon if you do. In fact the best way to carry all your 'dry' curries, and prevent contamination, too, is to divide them into meal-size portions and pack each individual portion, when the curry is quite cool, in a polythene bag-use long narrow bags not of the thinnest gauge, twist the empty top into a "rope' and tie a knot in it-this will ensure a good wholesome Curry which needs only to be warmed before serving.
On a bright day there is more work for you to do before setting off to your camp. Spread out the flour that you will take with you in the sun and when dry, sift and seal it in polythene bags, half a pound to a pack. And just before you leave, this too on a really bright day, clean and wash your rice. Dry it in the sun and when crisp seal it in polythene bags-each pack sufficient for one meal. This will save you precious time and even more precious water when out camping. The same goes for the sustaining and ever popular parippu-dhal, which brings us to the question of vegetables.
Veteran campers prefer the "hard' vegetables that do not squash easily. Bear this in mind when you decide whether you should buy these vegetables in the local market or in the remote villages where they are fresh and cheap. The "hard' vegetables you should look for are-murunga, ash plantain, brinjal, pumpkin, beans, cabbages, potatoes (buy plus, plus; it is a good "filler"), cucumber, carrots and such like. Do not forget, as one is often prone to, capsicums, and green chillies; and almost always overlooked, with pangs of regret, rampe, Sera and karapincha.
Buy plenty of limes, particularly if you are camping in the dry zones. Limes, remember, are not a mere adjunct to cooking, squeezed they make a very refreshing drink. For cooking only an anuga-a kind of concentrate-of lime is easy to make. " At the time of the year that there is most plenty of lemons, they take them and squeeze the juice into an earthen pot, and set over the fire, and boil it so long, till it becomes thick and black like tar; this they set by for use, and it will keep as long as they please. A very small quantity of it will suffice for sauce: they call it annego,' said Robert Knox, who had forgotten to add the salt!
Now for the "curry stuff'-ingredients-that makes delicious your camp curries. First the traditional and very convenient, "combination' curry-powder of the villager: 6 parts of coriander, 8 of suduru (white cummin), 2 of maduru (sweet cummin) and I of kaha (turmeric). True, villagers add 2 parts () of chilli powder, but leave it out and packet it separately. V
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It is best that the dry chilliyou carry with you should be of three sorts. One-finely ground for use with most curries and the polsambol that is a camper's delight. Two-coarsely pounded, kali kudu for making, occasionally, a very tasty baduma and, always, the tingling lunu mirisa, a sambol that goes so well with roti that you will often eat in camp, and three-dry chilli pods whole and untouched. This, a necessary accompaniment to fried sprats and the far more savoury dry fish fry.
The curry-powder and the finely-ground chilli should be sealed in small polythene bags, each pack, more or less, sufficient for the day. This will ensure that the flavour of the first and the sting of the other keeps right through the period of your camp.
To your 'larder' add the more prosaic, by comparison, cinnamon, cardamoms and cloves in small quantities. Add also goraka, tamarind and vinegar-all 'acids' it is true but each with its own distinctive flavour too good to be missed. Finely-ground pepper-sealed as best you can-is not merely a must for the breakfast egg (fresh eggs keep well, even in the heat of the dry zones, for a week at least) it is even more a "must' for the pol sambol, often eaten three times a day. Green ginger, garlic and ulu hal, which take very little space, makes a big difference to your curries; take a little of each at least. You are now left with red onions, which should not be too tightly packed; Maldive fish, pounded into small bite-size pieces; coconuts and coconut, oil (refined) and, of course, salt.
Leave out butter-carry margarine if you must-it gets far too mushy in the heat and soon turns rancid. Condensed milk is far too messy and, besides, attracts ants into the camp. Leave it behind and drink your tea the way the vanni villager does-plain, slightly sweetened and with the refreshing tang of a dash of lime juice in it.
The finest camp "dessert' you can have is dried palu preserved in the honey of the jungle bees. But do not depend too much on it, it is hard to find. Take, instead, plenty of fresh fruit. Pineapple, mango and plantains being, in that order, almost the ideal. Choose well-seasoned and only half-ripe fruits. Plantains, in particular, should be almost green. These fruits will ripen day by day, as you go along, and you will be assured of a regular and unfailing supply. Dried dates make a pleasant and Sustaining change. So does tinned fruit, though bulky and difficult to carry.
indeed, the rice, curry and fruit-eating vagabond in Sri Lanka is considerably better off than someone who must depend on other staples and on such standbys as bacon and tinned foods.
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Of staples there is some choice. Dampers (Australian) bannocks (Scottish) and dropped biscuits (American) can all be made of the same basic dough, though recipes vary (b. flour 3 oz. fat, 3 teaspoons baking powder, and I level teaspoon salt : kneaded with a cupful, more or less, of water). Bake the dampers on the hot ground where a good fire has just been burning, by covering over with ashes and (over these) live coals. For bannocks, slightly increase the water and double the fat; for dropped biscuits increase only the water to the point where the dough will fall from a teaspoon; and bake either on a griddle, turning the bannocks when done on one side. To bannocks there is a secret-hold griddle high over the fire until the bannock rises to about twice its thickness, and only then lower it to directly over the coals-but all these breadstuffs are easy. Flapjacks are even easier: rub about an ounce of dry fat into a pound of flour well mixed with a level teaspoonful of salt, 2 teaspoonfuls of sugar, and 2 level table-spoonfuls of baking powder; add enough water to make a batter that will pour from a spoon; fry like pancakes, greasing the pan before each flap-jack goes in. Or make the local-roti. Take one pound of sifted flour and tease into it the gratings of one coconut, using your fingers. Add salt and, if the mixture becomes too dry, add small quantities of cold water a little at a time. Make into ping-pong size balls and then flatten into discs on any large leaf. Bake on your griddle over a good flame turning them over until a crisp brown on both sides. Add finely sliced onions and green chillies to the flour and coconut mix before baking if you want a self-contained, tasty and most convenient pack lunch.
Accompaniments to such staples are the practical difficulty. Game shooting is frowned on in Sri Lanka (though everybody hates a live wild boar and loves a cooked one) and in any case it is wiser not to carry a gun. Fishing is another thing, however, and some tank fish can be taken on a bent pin it is therefore worthwhile knowing how to get rid of the 'muddy' flavour that characterizes many species. First, scale and gut the fish completely, removing also head and gills. Then place it in a vessel and cover it with boiling water for not more than two minutes-one minute, if the fish are small. The skin may now be easily removed; and with it all trace of 'muddiness'. Filleted and fried, such fish are excellenc.
Any largish fish-or, for that matter, any smallish animal, or a bird-can be most succulently (and successfully) baked in clay. What is more, fish need not be previously scaled nor animals skinned nor birds de-feathered save of the largest quills. Just beheadin the case of a fish remove gills as well-and gut or draw. Now work some clay with water to a putty-like consistency. Pat out a sheet of this large enough to lay what you are about to cook upon,
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and cover completely with more clay to about the same thickness, pressing weli together where the layers join. Put into the fire, cover with a good mantle of hot coals, and keep the fire burning above for about 45 minutes for a flattish fish or twice as long for, say, a hare. Break the clay open and skin and scales, fur or feathers will come away with it. Only experience can precisely guide you; but remember that anything undercooked can, after being cut up, be done as still required on a hot greased griddle.
Beef and the flesh of the wild boar, can be Smoked at home into biltong or "jerky'; but the process is a full-time job for anything up to 24 hours (what with keeping off crows and-much more important-flies and keeping the fire precisely going and the Smoke accurately directed) so that it is wiser to fall back upon the Smoked beef (and there is smoked ham; and such things as Salami) that can be bought locally. But bear in mind that in the tropics almost nothing will keep without ice longer than a few days. If rice is not for you, erat your breadstuff with one of the curries already suggested, reducing the chilli according to taste.
You will note that it has been taken for granted that you will took over an open fire. Of the equipment locally available a stove is probably the most awkward of all impedimenta. But you will have to carry (if you are going to do any cooking at all) enough utensils not only to cook but also to prepare your food in. This is where the non-rice and curry eater (who can get by with a frying pan and a pan that will double as a water-boiler and whose lid can serve for a plate) has it over his brother. If you are going to lay in more ambitious an array of vessels, begin with a frying pan. In a good one you can carry out any operation from warming up a curry to baking a cake. A thin one which will warp or dent is, however, worse than useless; the ideal is an aluminium one with a thick base, which in addition to its other uses makes a very practical griddle. With a little ingenuity you can-and should-adapt it so that the handle can be detached or inserted at will: anything else is difficult to carry or impossible to use over an open fire. With Y. frying pan for starters, select your billies. Common in Sri anka is the kind of vessel known as a degchi, a handle-less Saucepan with a flat plate-like lid, made in nesting sizes. Choosing as the largest one that will let your frying pan either fit at the bottom or it on the lid, select others including a nambilia, if your rice is not Icked and washed at home, that will nest comfortably inside the asic parcel.
Little has been said about tents and camp furniture, only a catalogue can do that. Actually the finest tent of all, and certainly the most often used by experienced campers in this lsland, is the clear starlitsky with a carpet of grass at your feet.
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A selected list of camp sites (recommended by one experienced camper or another, for one or another advantage) but, if you will only be circumspect, it is part of the fun and not in the least difficult to find your own. Doubtless that is what you will soon be doing. Exactly where a camp should be pitched is a matter of personal choice and satisfaction.
Camp Sites
The patanas and woods of the Haputale Eorest Reserve; access via Haputale-Bandarawela road or Haputale-Dambatenne road. Fresh water is available. Best months are March-April, July to October.
ldalgashinna Gap and Tangamalai Sanctuary: By train to ldalgashinna or by road, via Haputale and Glenanore. Best months March-April, July to October.
Boralanda-Ohiya road: any number of camping sites, fresh water in plenty. Turn off at Boralanda from Haputale-Wellimada road.
Ella Gap: Down from Ella towards Wellawaya, proceed along any of a number of paths that take off to the right of the main road, into the hills beyond. Plenty of water. At the Ravana Ella Falls there is sufficient space near the road to put up a tent.
Hunnasgiriya-Looloowatte-Corbett's Gap road: Many ideal locations along the entire length (about 12 miles) of this road; many potentially good sites on the first mile-and-a-half as also in the area between the 26th and 29th mileposts.
Area near Minipe Anicut and Rantambe gorge: Motorable up to Minipe Anicut; 2 miles from here along jeepable track to Rantambe. Fresh water from Mahaveli or Minipe Yoda Ela.
Uda. Pussellawa area : Many sites availlable beyond Uda Pussellawa on roads to Welimada and Nildandahinna.
Fordyce Gap area: lovely and lonely country, plenty of water. Best months March-April, July to October; road from Agrapatana to o Dikoya. Y
Sarasuntenne: on the southern bank of Mahaveli river at the great bend in the river. Access from Kandy-Ragala road: turn off at Kolongastenne down minor road, past Pannala; total distance about seven miles. Camp may be pitched in glades by river or (in dry season) in any of a number of islands in the river.
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Botiyatenne Pass, Rakwana: Many sites available, plenty of fresh water
Elk Plains, Ambewela: Many sites and fresh water available.
Peak Wilderness Sanctuary: hundreds of potential camping sites in patana or forest-clad ranges; water available almost everywhere.
Great Western-forest or patana area at the edge of the tea estate, at the base of the range; water from streams or spoutsthere are also two small reservoirs near Watagoda.
Bopath Ella Falls-off Kuruwita. Large sandy area at the confluence of two streams.
Kalinga Nuwara island, on the Mahaveli river south of Polonnaruwa not recommended during monsoon period.
Kalametiya and Gurupokuna: Turn right about three quarters of a mile from Hungama on the south coast road, and proceed about a mile-and-a-half; lovely area of salt flats and marshes, beautiful beaches. Rich in bird life around Kalametiya kalapuwa and Kunukalli 'lewaya, Gurupokuna. Fresh water very scarce; campers are advised to take sufficient supplies of water for drinking.
Katuwana, on Walas mulla-Middeniya road, Hambantota District; patches of thin forest close to the road; water not difficult to find. Also area between Middeniya and Panamure-access via minor road-jeep track from Middeniya town (turn left when approaching from Walasmulla-Katuwana).
Weeraketiya, by the lake; islands, and promontories in the lake are ideal, but look out for crocodiles and snakes (about ten miles inland from Tangalla).
Warapitiya tank, Rammaeli Kanda and Urubokka: The tank, a small but charming one, is situated about two miles from Kirama, which is on the Walasmulla-Middeniya road. Turn left at Kirama. The tank lies at the foot of, and is fed by streams from the 2,600-foot Rammaeli Kanda range which divides the Matara District from the Hambantota District. Green, lightly forested country, cool and breezy The road skirts the left bank of the tank and proceeds in a northerly direction across the range to link with a major road just south of Urubokka. Camp may be set up near the Urubokka dam, a Dutch engineering feat which resulted in the
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waters of a tributary of the Nilwala Ganga being diverted along a two-mile long channel excavated in the hills and taken over the mountain range to flow into the Hambantota District.
Liyangahatota, south-east of Siyambalagoda on the Pelmadulla-Embilipitiya-Nonagama road. The area near the anicut here is ideal for camping; 'dam across the Walawe river, turning part of the flow into the two channels on either side of the river. An imposing sight, especially when the river is at maximum volume.
s
Dedduwa lake, south of Bentota: A fairly extensive stretch of water connected with the Bentota Ganga at its left bank about nine miles from its confluence with the sea. Margins tend to be marshy close to the river, especially after heavy rains; farther reaches of the lake are ideal for camping. Access via BentotaHaburugala road.
Madu Ganga, off Balapitiya: Extensive lake; plenty of bird life, especially on islands. Lake reaches right up to the railway station. Canoes may be hired locally.
Telwatta Sanctuary: A body of fresh water and marsh between the Kahawa swamps and the Hikkaduwa ganga. Sites and water available; plenty of bird life.
Atweltota: Road from here opened by Forest Department into Runakanda-Morapitiya Forest Reserve, part of Sinharaja forest. Elevation 500 to 100 feet, plenty of streams. Cut off from civilisation, though less than fifty miles from Colombo. Route: Colombo-Kalutara-Agalawatte-Badureliya-Atweltota. Turn right just before bridge at Atweltota.
Mahapelessa hot springs: Grassy plain across Walawe river. Pel madulla-Embili pitiya-Nonagama road: turn off at Siyambalagoda, cross river at Bedigantota. No longer as remote or cut-away as it once was, though still frequented by animals.
Maha Oya hot springs: Turn left along gravel road at Maha Oya (on Badulla-Batticaloa road). Cluster of springs to the right of road, about a mile from town. Varying water temperatures in the springs. Hottest ones, smell strongly of sulphuric gases. Used by weddahs till recent times. Large open space for camping.
Kudawella Bay: About three miles beyond Dikwella, on the South Coast road. Turn off right (from main road via Mahawella) along minor road towards the beach. A series of large
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bays, plenty of fish and fishermen. Water tends to be slightly brackish, though not totally unpalatable. Much rock in the area except on the beach proper, which is unusually narrow. In good weather, one may sleep out on the rocks, saving the trouble of pitching a tent. People of the area tend to treat Strangers with some reserve, initially. They are quite helpful, however, if handled ព្រួយ and will not need much persuasion to prepare a meal for you. Sugar and biscuits may be exchanged for fish and services. On the rocky cliff a few yards from the cluster of huts is the blowhole, which may be heard puffing throughout the day and night.
The south coast, with its wide, open beaches, sand dunes and many bays, offers some of the best opportunities in this country. for camping. One of the most splendid locations-and one that ls as yet relatively little known--is Welipatanawila, between Tangalla and Ambalantota. It also possesses the advantage (if indeed one may consider this so) of being accessible by motor vehicle right to the spot.
Turn off to the right beyond Hungama, near the 39th mile. The road leads to a delightful little plateau covering fifteen to twenty acres. A carpet of grass spreads itself over the flat top of the plateau, giving it the appearance of hillcountry patana land. The promontory that divides two bays here rises well above the surrounding sea and there is a sheer drop to the water below, bounded by red rocks harbouring many caverns. Getting down to the beach involves negotiating a rocky stretch; this could prove difficult when the sea is rough or the wind strong.
The desolation which characterises the area-not a soul is in sight most of the time-the large green "billiard table' constituting the plateau, the canopy-topped scrub jungle that surrounds it and the steep cliffs that drop sixty to a hundred feet down to the sea, all give Welipatanawila a peculiar charm and beauty that may not be encountered elsewhere.
Fresh water tends to be a problem in the hot, dry months, and prospective campers would be advised to take a supply from Tangalla or Hambantota.
Ambalantota, also on the south coast road, offers excellent opportunities for camping. Approaching the town from the direction of Tangalla, turn right (by the maternity hospital) along Wadiya Road. The road twists left and then right by the old course of the Walawe River, now dry. Beyond is the river itself, near its confluence with the sea. The river is crossed by boat. There are areas of high ground and rocky outcrops near the beach. In the rocks are a fews caves-not particularly interesting ones. Wind and
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erosion have created many sand dunes here, and on them grow a type of scrub which seems peculiar to the area; their tops are large, umbrella-like canopies, under which a camper is assured of undisturbed slumber. Plenty of opportunities for fishing.
Dry-River Walks : There are few sights that can bring as much delight to the heart of one who has tramped eight, nine or ten miles as that of flowing water. Nothing that has been or could be written will adequately convey this feeling to one who has not experienced it. W
It is, therefore, not to be wondered at that hikers and others in pursuit of happiness of the beaten track are wont to keep close to a waterway. The ability to slake one's thirst, however, is only one of the advantages of following the trace of a river or sizeable stream, for a watercourse also provides protection, in certain circumstances, as well as security in the knowledge that, following . it either upstream or downstream, one can never get irretrievably lost.
While all rivers have their own peculiar charm, arising from their locations, the nature of the country through which they pass and other factors, the rivers of the dry zone have a particular fascination for many people. Their very locations make them seasonal by nature-raging torrents that sweep everything before them during the monsoons and dry, withered beds harbouring last year's memories during the dry season. And it is in the dry season that advantage may be taken of these rivers for long exploratory walks under the evergreen canopy of the jungle, into areas inaccessible by any means of transport, through villages unmarked on the maps.
A dry-river walk of this nature also confronts the hiker, every few yards, with evidence of the power of the river when, in fact, it is one, for scattered on the banks are boulders weighing tons, tossed and rolled as though they were toys; giant trees felled in a matter of minutes, torn up from their roots; the rocks of ages carved and chiselled into an amazing variety of shapes and forms.
With the exception of the smaller rivers, which are really streams, few of the waterways which are sometimes described as "dry rivers' are, in fact, totally waterless throughout their length. A hiker along the course of one of these rivers will frequently find pools of water, shaded and cooled by the jungle above, trapped in cavities in the rock. Even the hollows of tree-trunks seasoned in the river for years serve as miniature reservoirs which trap and store the precious liquid for use" by beast.
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It takes some persuasion for one who has never experienced It to set out on a dry-river walk. Fears and forebodings, however, Soon vanish when one realises that the risks involved are much less than those that may be encountered in the course of a walk on a street in the city.
The Northern, North-Central, Eastern and Southern Provinces, in their respective dry seasons, are the best locations for such walks, while parts of the North Western Province also afford similar opportunities during a more restricted period.
Among waterways that are recommended to prospective dryriver hikers are :
The Kala oya, from beyond the dam across the Kalawewa. The river commences about two miles from Kalawewa railway station, on the Kekirawa-Galewela road. The bed is very rocky for some miles and the initial stages may prove difficult. Pools of water Survive, even in the hottest months. The river empties into the Rajangane reservoir, goes on beyond to form the southern boundary of the Wilpattu National Park and enters the sea at Dutch Bay, north of Puttalam.
The Malwatu oya, from the Nachchaduwa tank onwards to the sea. As it enters the Northern Province, the river acquires another name-Aruvi aru. Beyond Madhu Road, the bed is often muddy churned up by cattle, buffalo (domestic and wild) and by elephants. This was Robert Knox's escape route.
The Moderagam aru, which drains several tanks, mainly abandoned ones, in the wild area west of Anuradhapura.
Trekking may commence along the mainstream of the river, which crosses the Puttalam-Anuradhapura road near the 38th milepost. Alternatively, a start may be made near the Mahawillachchiya tank.
The Parangi aru, a minor river that drains much of the storm-water in the area west of Vavuniya during the rainy season. it crosses the Anuradhapura-Jaffna road near the 5th milepost, just north of Vavuniya. In the hot, dry months wild animals frequent the bed of the stream, even if it contains no water.
The Ma oya, which drains the overflow from the Padaviya tank into the Kokkilai lagoon.
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The Pankulam aru: Commence trekking near the junction past the 94th milepost on the Anuradhapura-Trincomalee road, where this river crosses the road. It enters the sea south of Kuchchiaveli.
The Gallodal aru, which flows into the Rukam tank. This river crosses the Badulla-Batticaloa road just beyond Gallodai, about the 42nd milepost.
The Wila oya, which commences in the hills below Moneragala and enters the sea north of Panama.
The Kumbukkan oya, which also begins in the hills below Moneragala and flows into the sea at Kumana. This river never goes dry along its entire length, though in its lower reaches it is frequently reduced to a trickle.
The Menik ganga, often reduced to a trickle, as pilgrims to Kataragama will testify. Its mainstream crosses the WellawayaMoneragala road at the outskirts of Buttala town.
The Mallala ara, which leads off from several tanks in the area west of Tanamalwila. Its mainstream crosses the TanamalwiaHambeganuwa road near the 7th milepost. This river flows (only for part of the year) into the Malala lewaya about six miles east of Hambantota.
The Heda oya, which is rarely totally dry, commences in the hills of lower Uva south of the Senanayake Samudra and gains access to the sea at Arugam Bay. Its main tributary crosses the Moneragala-Potuvil road near the 79th milepost, just out of Siyambalanduwa. South of the road, the river is frequented by wild animals, even in the dry season. -
The Deduru oya, which originates in the hills west of Matale and in the tanks around Kurunegala. Unusual reticulation at Katagamuwa.
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CHAPTER 4
Back of beyond
* FROM Ceylon to Paradise, according to native tradition, is forty miles; the sound of the fountains of Paradise is heard there,' wrote the Papal legate Marignolifive hundred years ago, describing his visit to Sri Lanka on his way back to Rome from China. "When Adam was expelled an angel took him by the arm and set him down here,' this tourist of five centuries ago confidently reported.
Marignolli's ecstatic outburst was occasioned by a visit to the Adam's Peak range. Whether he finally reached the peak is not known. His exuberance is understandable, however, even if his impressions do seem more than a little exaggerated. The impact on this well-travelled Roman diplomat of the beauty of Sri Lanka's outback-which in those distant times must surely have been back of beyond '-left him with no choice but to resort to superlatives.
The march of civilisation, the creeping urbanisation, the extension of agricultural activity into once-remote areas have all served to diminish progressively that area of the country that might, not so long ago, have been described with some justification as lying "back of beyond'. This is a continuous and often imperceptible process, causing changes so vast in the face of the land that some interesting place, some out-of-the-way spot that may be seen today
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(perhaps with some difficulty) will have been lost forever a few years hence.
For instance, the recent decision to re-open the old road from Kandy to Badulla via Minipe and Taldena-a well-trodden highway in the days of the Sinhalese kings but virtually forgotten for almost two centuries-will throw open to modern influence a part of the country which, because of its relative remoteness and inaccessibility had retained much of its original character.
While the need for development, agricultural expansion and village improvement cannot be denied, the result must be accepted as inevitable: it will not be long before there are few places left in this country that may be described as lying "back of beyond'.
That we still do have such places is something we in our generation should be thankful for. Not many countries with a land area of only 25,000 square miles and a population getting on to thirteen million could afford the luxury of preserving so large a number of idyllic spots, cut off from the jarring sounds and sights of contemporary life, where one may, yet enjoy the wild freshness of the mountains, the lonely grandeur of the ancient forests, the creepy silence of the grass-clad plains, unfettered by those links that inevitably bind one to the baser advantages of civilised life.
One of the many glories of this country is that one is able to hug the bosom of Nature without really fleeing very far from the centres of civilisation. Less than two hours' drive from Colombo lies what is perhaps the last remaining virgin forest in this country, while a journey only slightly longer is required to transport one into the magnificence of the Peak wilderness that so captivated the heart and imagination of Marignoli.
"Back of beyond" can lie almost anywhere, from within fifteen miles of the capital to the remote fastnesses of the vanni, the forested plains of Bintenne and the wide, rolling glades of southern Sabaragamuwa and Lower Uva. It also lies, by conscious effort, in the national parks and wild life reserves where Nature has been proclaimed Queen'; but of these only passing reference need be made in this chapter.
Going back of beyond in the hill country is invariably a pleasant exercise-pleasant because, of necessity, it involves walking but not so much walking as to make the exercise tedious or irksome. A great deal, it need hardly be stated, depends on the mood and attitude of the hiker; in the great rolling patanas of the Uva, for instance, one could keep walking for days without encountering anything of particular significance-except for the unending beauty
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of Nature spread out in those hills and tortuous valleys which have been the playthings of the elements since the beginning of time.
For a start, let's make a pass at the Passes. They are also called "Gaps," because they are great wedges or clefts in the mountains permitting passage from one side of a range to the other. Some of them are fairly well known-the Kadugannawa Pass, Balane Pass and the Haputate Pass, particularly. Others are less well known-the Idalgashinna Gap, the Ella Gap, the Kirklees Gap (referred to simply in the maps as "The Gap'), Corbett's Gap and Fordyce Gap, the Madugoda Pass, the Bulutota Pass and the Botiyatenne Pass, the Ohiya Gap and the Maturata (or Elemulle) Gар. V
Not many people are aware that, at the head of the Balane Pass, some way up the mountainside above the little railway station of Balane, there exist the remains of a fort used successively by the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British-and in between by the Sinhalese kings of Kandy. The hill of that name dominates the narrow gap that is soaked in the blood of the history of Kandy.
The fort may be reached via a road that takes off from near the railway station, and then along a path that strikes up a hill to the right. An alternative approach is via the Kadugannawa-PottepitiyaMenikdiwela road, with a turn to the left at the third mile, and then the ascent up the track.
Little remains of the fort today but a section of ruined wall and some stone blocks, most of which are under heavy undergrowth. The Ministry of Cultural Affairs has now decided to erect a monument at the site of the old fort, in honour of the Sinhalese people who fought numerous battles at the pass in defence of their kingdom.
If what remains of the fort proves a disappointment, the view does not. The hills in the distance, particularly Uttuwankande and Bible Rock, are seen in new perspective, and assume a certain completeness of shape. Major R. Raven-Hart, in his book CeylonHistory in Stone, agrees with the Dutch that, viewed from the superior elevation of Balane fort, Bible Rock should really be "Coffin Rock', since at this height is clearly visible the diagonal end of the rock which a traveller on the railway will not see.
The trail down to the station can be uncomfortable, especially in wet weather. The problem is not so much one of the gradient, which is steep enough. What one needs to look out for constantly are the leeches-hundreds of them, waiting, and waiting, for someone to pass by. And since there are very, very few passers-by
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on that old trail today the wait, when it ends, must be rewarding. Raven-Hart describes the slimy little demons thus: "Leeches are amusingly ritualistic beasts, sitting up on their blunt ends and bowing three times with their thin ones, in three directions, before anchoring this end and hauling the blunt one up to it-and repeat.'
The Pass-or Gap--at Haputale is one of the most astonishingly beautiful spots in this country; astonishing because, no matter how many times one has been there, a cold shudder is generated every time the summit is reached and the steep descent begins on the other side. To quote Raven-Hart again, ". . . . . through Haputale, where the arrival in the main street is startling, especially from a front seat-the street is there, and shops on both sides; but at the far end of it a drop into nothingness. Actually, the road makes a very sharp right turn there; but on first arrival it is obvious that the bus is going to become air-borne where that road ends.' V
The town clings precipitously to both sides of a razor-sharp. ridge, the sides slipping away steeply into the distant valleys below. Spread out, to the north and east, is the great amphitheatre of upper Uva, bounded by the mountains of Idalgashinna, Ohiya and the Horton Plains, the peaks of Hakgala, the purple cone of Namunukula and the ranges of Poonagala and Bandara-Eliya. And on the other side is a view equally breathtaking-the foothills of lower Uva, the southern Sabaragamuwa and the coastal plains of the Southern Province right down to the sea. On a bright day the ocean is clearly visible, while a cloudless night discloses the stabbing rays of the little lighthouse at Hambantota, far South.
From the market square at Haputale a six-mile stretch of road takes off farther into the hills, ending in a cul-de-sac on the other side of the Poonagala-Ampettiakande range. This road, unfortunately, is hardly traversed except by persons bound for one of the three or four tea estates it serves. A more scenic stretch of roadway in this country it would be hard to find. Towards the end of the road one sees, far down in the valley below, a gigantic gap between two mountains-and everywhere are streams and waterfalls and hills that go up to over 6,000 feet. Beyond and below the gap is the road to Koslanda and Wellawaya, and around it the basin of one gf the mainstreams of the Walawe river. Above the road, and to its left, is the Haputale Forest Reserve, where an excellent view is obtained of the country around. The Reserve is well served by streams and is ideal for camping in, except during the rainy season or in January and February, when mist reduces visibility almost to nil. −
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Five miles from Haputale is laalgashinne, which is also on the railway. There is another fine gap here, in the same range of mountains, though to appreciate the beauty of the place one needs to get off the train and take the next one or, better, walk the distance to Haputale. The view, in some respects, is even Better than that obtained from the Haputale Gap. To quote again from Raven-Hart : 'At daigashinna . . . . you need a spare pair of eyes; many railway stations have a superb view-this has two, to the north and to the south. I don't think a train has ever fellen off one of these precipices or been swept off by a landslide; but took down on those inhospitable rocks, as spiky as Cologne cathedral, and agree with Pedersen that "no death could be as painful as to fall on to natural Gothic.' ' That description does not leave much to be imagined.
Stretching for five miles between Haputale and idalgashinra is a little-known nature reserve-the Tangamalai Sanctuary. From behind the railway station a gravel track takes off, skirting the other side of the ridge traversed by the railway line on its way to Ohiya. Five miles beyond, it joins the Boralanda-Ohiya-Kalupahana road two or three hundred yards below the Ohiya Gap. A walk along this road is rewarding, if only for an observation of the complexity of the mountain structure here.
About three miles below lodalgashinna station, on the souther slope of the range and surrounded by the Needwood tea plantation is an old, abandoned fortress-the Katugodella Fort-at an elevation of about 3,800 feet. The Portuguese once attempted to use the ldalgashinna pass to force a way into the Uva. Hardly anything of the fort remains today: a few scattered stones and the semicircular outlines of ancient bastions are the only reminders of its
functions.
At a higher elevation-about 6,000 feet-stands the Ohiya Pass. It is not as scenic as the passes at Haputale and lodalgashinna, since the view is only on the southern side of the range, the other side being in forest. From the head of the Gap to the Ohiya railway station is about two miles-two delightful miles through avenues of tall eucalyptus and cyprus. The Gap looks out to the Horton Plains massiff to the right and over the steep descent to the main road to Haputale below. Far down in the valley below is the 4,900foot peak of Bambaragala, obscuring from view the Bambarakanda Falls. If the Ohiya Gap is unspectacular in many respects, it has one distinct advantage over many similar locations-its utter loneliness. One may stand at the Gap an entire day and not meet more than half a dozen people-woodcutters, mainly, or a few tea pluckers.
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Twenty-five miles beyond on the railway is Ella, with its famous gap, rock and cave. This Gap is one of the most spectacular in the country. It looks down from a height of 3,500 feet through a narrow opening in the mountains that descend 3,000 feet to the flat jungle-plains below. Vill about the end of 1969 the area that lay within the Gap was one of the most inaccessible in the entire country. Today, however, a modern 7-mile roadway links the hamlet of Ella, at the head of the Gap, with the important road junction of Wellawaya, far down on the plain below. Some idea of the descent involved may be obtained from a comparison of the two elevations : Wellawaya is situated at approximately 500 feet -and the last five-mile stretch of roadway is mainly flat. Halfway down the gap is the beautiful Ravanna Ella Falls-a magnificent sight from either direction.
On the other side of the Gap from the road, across the Kirindi oya, which is here a turbulent stream beaten into foam, lie a number of ancient villages, including that of Randeniya, where the Portuguese were defeated in battle over three hundred years ago. Between the villages is dense jungle where wild pig, deer and leopard roam. This jungle sometimes harbours elephants, too; they cross the Koslanda-Wellawaya road to enter this perpetually green paradise where everything is fresh all the time, where the smell of wet earth and wild flowers mingles with the sound of running water to create sensations so pleasant that they can hardly be described.
In an entirely different part of the country lie the Madugoda Pass and Corbett's Gap. The Madugoda Pass connects the plains of Weragantota (elevation about 250 feet) with the central hill mass, via a series of hairpin bends, the road rises td an elevation of about 2,600 feet at Madugoda and about 3,000 feet at Hunnasgiriya. From Madugoda-or preferably a little way down from the village--a wonderful view may be obtained of the plains of Bintenne, of the numerous blue-green patches of water splashed seemingly at random across the deep brownish-green of the scrub jungle. To the right and left are ancient villages seldom visited by "outsiders'; so cut off are these hamlets that in some of them-the village of Hanwella, for instance, about two miles from Madugodaspoken Sinhala is substantially different from the same language used elsewhere.
Even here, signs of "progress' are evident everywhere. Not long ago the only means of getting to Hanwella was by way of a footpath, later converted into a jeepable track, down the steep valley that lies to the north of the Madugoda Pass. Today there is a road-not a very good one, by any means, but still a macadamised road-on which an infrequent bus service runs the four miles to
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Hanwella and a further four miles to the small hamlet of Kalugala, nestling in the shadow of the eastern spur of the Knuckles range.
Almost opposite the Bank, at Hanwella, a track which is little more than a footpath takes off to the right of the road. This leads on for about three-and-a-half miles, through the hills and woods and a smaller village named Puwakpitiya, to pass the Ratna Ella Falls, with a drop of 365 feet. The Falls are quite an impressive sight in the rainy season, when too close an approach may result in the visitor being bathed in spray. The falls may also be approached by a track which commences, below the hairpin bends, close to Hasalaka.
South of Madugoda, the scene is very different. For ten miles as the crow flies (hardly any of these creatures, it must be added with satisfaction, may be observed in flight in this area) and right up to the untamed turbulence of the Mahaveli river stretches a large area of hills and open country broken intermittently by scrub or forest. There are few roads to serve the scattered villages and hamlets in this area; even the roads that do exist do not extend very far from Madugoda town. The farthest village that may be reached by road from Madugoda is that of Devahandiya, about fifteen miles away. Roads also connect with the villages of Mahawela and Madugalla. There is a common approach road from Madugoda, via the villages of Kaluntenne, Mediwake and Bopana. The junction with the main road is a few yards from the Madugoda rest-house.
Beyond the end of these roads, winding through the parkland and over the elevated ridges, are scores of footpaths linking forgotten villages that have never seen a motor vehicle.
The river may be reached via all three villages. From Madugalla through Unagolla and Kumbukgalla and along the stream named Unagolla Kandura, the footpath links the path from Minipe along the bank of the river. The main footpath here (approximately half-way between Rantambe and the Kimbulantotal crossing) avoids the huge southern bend taken by the river and takes off over the hills, coming up to the river again about a mile beyond. The footpath from Devahandiya skirts chena and paddy cultivations for a short distance, then enters forest broken by occasional patches of open country, past the two remote settlements of Rassagoda and Kehelella, along the lower reaches of the Kehelella Ela and joins the path from Rantambe about three miles west of the gorge. Elephants still roam in considerable number around Kehelella. From the end of the road at Mahawela several footpaths lead south towards the river, past the hamlets of Hinitiya and Rankiriyagola. Here the paths converge and ascend through the hamlets of Amuna and Kandegama, crossing the 3,000-foot mark, to reach the Maha
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oya stream, which takes the path through the hamlet of Bembiya to join the main track from Minipe only a little over a mile from the Rantambe gorge.
The walk from Madugalla to the river is about six miles; from Devahandiya about five miles, and from Mahawela about eight miles.
Four miles up the road is the village of Hunnasgiriya, at the summit of the pass. The view from here is magnificent-open country stretching away to the east and south, while gentle hills covered with patana, tea or cardamom rise to the north. The entry from the west, via Teldeniya, is drab and uninteresting, but the scene changes rapidly past Urugala, until at Hunnasgiriya it is quite breath-taking.
At Hunnasgiriya a road takes off across the hills, to looloowatte and Corbett's Gap, a distance of about ten miles. The road winds through cardamom plantations and over many streams until it reaches the head of the Gap, where it turns sharply westwards around the Knuckles range. Excellent for hiking, especially along the numerous footpaths skirting the hills.
Four miles farther up the road from Hunnasgiriya lies. Urugala, where the road twists and winds tortuously around the hills and along two tributaries of the Mahaveli. Just south of the village is the site of the capture of the last King of Kandy. From Urugala, too, a number of cart tracks and footpaths fan out over the hills to the south through open parkland and well-watered scrub jungle, to the river, which here lies only four or five miles away.
On the river here near the village of Tawalantenna, are the Victoria Falls, only 33 feet high but an impressive sight in the monsoon period. Farther down the river is the Rantambe gorge, where the entire volume of the Mahaveli is forced through a narrow, 20-foot gap in the rocks. Rantambe may be reached by footpath from Madugoda (about ten miles) or from Minipe (about four miles) through open country criss-crossed by dozens of streams.
Close by as the crow flies but quite some distance away by road (unless one chooses to travel by footpath through the jungle) is the Kirklees Gap, in the Uda Pussellawa mountains between Ragala and Welimada. "The Gap' (described as such in the one-inch map) is unfortunately not on the bus route, but lies on a branch of the road from Ragala via Uda Pussellawa, Gampaha and Kirklees to Welimada. From the turn-off to the Gap is about a mile-and-a- half on a good road through the Kirklees tea plantation, rising to
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an elevation of about 4,000 feet. The mountains on either side of the Gap rise a thousand feet higher. Below, in the lowlands beyond the Gap, is the basin drained by the Halgran oya, the Obada oya and the Uma oya, all tributaries of the Mahaveli.
The road from Uda Pussellawa to Kirklees and beyond winds interminably through the tea, presenting a new view of the same scene every few minutes. Half-way between Uda Pussellawa and Gampaha the road passes by an extensive forest of Rappahannock gums that cover the hillsides. (West of Uda Pussellawa and only three miles or so from Ragala is Dixon's Corner, where the road turns very sharply around a spur in the mountain range. At this point the road overlooks the planting community's rifle range and rifle butts, the valley of the Halgran oya and, in the distance, the terraced rice fields of Rupaha). V.
Beyond Kirklees the road pushes on through the tea for some distance before it commences dropping in elevation, when paddy comes into view. From here one may get a good view of the Manawela Falls (67 feet) in the hills close by. Beyond, to Welimada, the road passes through typical hill-country villages; unspectacular but nevertheless charming countryside.
The entire stretch of road from Ragala to Weimada is well worth doing on foot, if one has both the time and the stamina for such an exercise. S.
In yet another part of the hill country lies the Fordyce Gap, as yet unexploited because it lies off the main routes to anywhere, in an area occupied ħmainly by tea bushes, mana grass and montane forest. The Gap lies at an elevation of 5,000 feet in the Agrapatana mountains. There is a road (not recommended unless your vehicle is in good shape) from Agrapatana through the Gap, to Dikoya. The scenery is splendid, the country absolutely lonely. A lovely walk, if one can make it all the way to Dikoya. The turn-off to the Gap is at Agrapatana, which is linked with Talawakelle on the railway by a 7-mile stretch of good road.
As the road from Kandy to Ragala via Rikillagaskada nears the village of Padiyapelella, it takes an enormous turn to the left as it follows the contour of the mountain and crosses the Belihul oya, a tributary of the Mahaveli. Just before Padiyapelella is reached a narrow road takes off to the right, to the village of Eller mulle, three miles up in the hills. Beyond Elemulle the road narrows and, skirted by luscious paddy, goes on through an enormous gap in the mountains, to terminate at an elevation of about 4,500 feet, 1,500 feet above Ellemulle. A branch of this road turns up.
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north, to serve several tea estates at the 5,000-foot level. Beyond the end of the road, a footpath pushes on into the Pidurutalagala wilderness.
Cut off completely from the central mountain mass and situated in an entirely different part of the country from the places described in the preceding pages are the Bulutotal Pass and the Botiyatenne Pass, both of which lie above the town of Rakwana, in the Ratnapura District of the Sabaragamuwa Province. The Bulutota Pass commences about three miles from Rakwana, on the road to Deniyaya and the South. X.
Through a series of hairpin bends (about ten, not counting the lesser ones) the road rises from an elevation of 1,350 feet at Rakwana to over 3,000 feet at the head of the Pass, at Bulutota. Apart from some tea, the area is forested, to right and left of the road. Quite often the pass is shrouded in a fine mist, leaving everything perpetually damp. Peaks and cones rise on all sides from the forested valleys and ridges-Kurulugala (3,581 feet) and Palamcotta (3,447 feet) stick out from the forest below the road, while the Suriyakanda (4,300 feet) and Kabaragala peaks stand out from the range above the road.
A rough road takes off into the hills near the small circuit bungalow, passes it and disappears into the tea of Aberfoyle Estate. A track tears itself away from this road and goes on into the damp fastness of the Kabaragala forest, past a hermitage which is, ünfortunately, structurally totally out of rapport with its syivan surroundings. From the circuit bungalow to Rakwana town is just under ten miles. W
Closer to the town, on a road rarely ever traversed by 'outsiders', lies the Botlyatenne Pass, at an elevation of 2,887 feet. This pass is situated in one of the most delightful parts of the country. The road to Deepdene and thence to Rambuke, Kathlana and Pothupitiya and beyond to Panapola, Weddagala and Kalawana rises steeply as it takes off from the town. A thousand feet up the range, it skirts the gorge of the Rakwana ganga (a tributary of the Walaywe) which drops precipitously from the Handapan Ella Plains (4,100 feet) via the beautiful Handapan Ella Falls. Towering above the Fall is the peak of Kabaragala mountain (4,238 feet).
The area between the road and the base of the Fall, and for miles down the valley towards Deepdene, is a large green carpet that unrolls in gentle waves. At Botiyatenne village the watershed is crossed over the mainstream of the Rambuke ganga, one of the principal tributaries of the Kukulu ganga, which empties its torrent
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into the Kalu ganga. From now on all the streams crossing the road (and there are many) flow north and west. The land, the streams, the forest-even the rows of tea bushes-have something gentle and delicate about them. At first sight of the area at the Summit of the Pass, one is very nearly tempted to abandon everything else, pitch a tent on the rolling grassland near where the Rakwana ganga commences its journey to the southern sea, and stay on.
Beyond is Sinharaja, the great primeval rain forest which hides so many mysteries. From it emerge the peaks of several mountains clad in forest-Beralagala (4.545 feet) lilibe (3,9 l I feet) and Panilkanda (4,084 feet).
The road once terminated at Pothupitiya, about 3 miles from Rakwana. An intervening stretch of five miles has been completed, and it now goes on to Panapola and beyond.
In the Hill Country also are several beautiful plateaux to which the general description "plain" has been applied. These include the Tangamale Plains and the Handapan Ella Plains, in southern Sabaragamuwa. Both are not easy of access.
The Tangamale Plains are situated at an elevation of 3,000 to
3,500 feet in an area drained by the tributaries of the Delgoda ganga, which winds its way to the Kalu ganga via the Kukulu ganga. It is a beautiful area of rolling downs and occasional trees, well watered by a number, of crystal-clear streams. Access is via the Pel madulla-Madampe-Rakwana-Deniyaya road. Turn off along a minor road at the 72nd mile, a mile beyond Suriyakanda junction. The road serves Oakhampton and Rew estates. Beyond, it trails off into a track which is motorable, leading on to Illumbekanda Group and Traquar. To the left lie the Tangamale Plains, roadless and practically trackless. A small waterfall graces the nearby Edanda ela. Two miles or so to the north lie a few small estates (Rawret, Dolahena and Beaconsfield).
About a mile beyond, and 600 feet higher, lie the Handapan Ella Plains, bordered by the Kabaragala cliffs-the top of the Handapan Ella Falls. These plains may also be reached via Cliveden Estate (same approach as for Tangamale Plains: turn off at 72nd mile). There are no roads or tracks beyond the estate, and some careful climbing is required. The area is frequented by wild pig, occasionally by other animals. The scenery is worth the trek.
The Horton Plains, lying on both sides of the Uva-Central Province boundary, is too well known to demand detailed description. Virtually inaccessible except on foot till a few years ago,
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it may now be reached by road (I) via Talawakelle, Agrapatana and Diyagama Estate (2) via Nuwara Eliya or Blackpool/Mahagastota or Hakgala, Ambewela and Pattipola, (3) via Wellimada and Ohiya or Kalupahana and Ohiya.
Other routes exist-in some respects more thrilling, more picturesque-which are not motorable; which are, in fact, hardly known outside the area.
One is via the road that turns left at Norwood junction (six miles from Hatton on the way to Maskeliya). This road goes on for eight miles to Bogawantalawa and a further two miles to Campion. Here it divides into several rough tracks that wind away into the hills serving some of the isolated tea plantations in the area.
One track goes straight on through the North Cove Division of Loinorn Estate. Past the area cultivated in tea, the road becomes a mere footpath, zig-zagging its way through montane scrub as it ascends steadily from the 5,000-foot level. About three miles from North Cove the footpath crosses the mainstream of the Bogawantalawaoya at an altitude of 6,500 feet and divides.
The branch to the right turns south, climbs to 7,000 feet as it crosses the boundary of the Peak Wilderness Sanctuary, then drops a few hundred feet, skirting a rocky cliff, to cross the Belihuloya near the Galagama Falls. At the stream, this path divides again, the branch to the left keeping to the bank of the stream as it ascends once more on its way to Horton Plains, past three of the seven pools in the Beli hul oya-Ford Pool, GermPit Pool and Governor’s Pool. Shortly beyond, past Baker's Falls and Slab Rock Falls, the path rejoins the left branch of the path from Loinorn Estate. At the division at the Belihul oya, the path to the right descends through Non Pareil Estate, which is linked by road with the main. road to Haputale. A branch of this path goes on to several villages on the banks of the upper reaches of the Belihul oya. These are connected by a road (not a particularly good one) that takes of from the main road to Haputale near the Belihiul Oya resthouse.
The left branch of the original path at the division just beyond loinorn Estate ascends on a gentler gradient, crosses the 7,000-foot mark and enters the Horton Plains. Shortly beyond it divides, the path to the right crossing the Belihuloya to go on to the edge of this country's largest ravine at the Big World's End Drop. The R to the left carries on across the plain, to meet the roads from uwara Eliya-Hakgala and Diyagama near the old rest-house, now a privately-owned hotel named Farr Inn.
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Dominating the scene is the mighty crest of Kirigalpota (7,857 feet) in the Agra Bopats Forest Reserve in the Nuwara Eliya District. There is, unfortunately, no path to this very impressive mountain. A hiker makes his own path as he goes along, if he is so disposed. In the upper reaches of this mountain, about the 7,600 foot mark, is a smaller plain.
The road from the plains to Pattipola and thence to Nuwara Eliya-Hakgala skirts the base of Totapolakanda (7,741 feet), also in the Nuwara Eliya District, the third highest peak in this country. Just before the 4th milepost on this road (short of three miles from Pattipola railway station), a footpath strikes out from the road and goes almost straight up the mountain. To the summit is only about a mile, and requires a climb of about 650 feet.
Close by are the Elk Plains, stretching from near the railway station at Ambewela north to the region of the Kande Ela reservoir. The elevation is between 6,000 and 6,500 feet. The Elk Plains (so named because of the abundance of sambur there many years ago) forms the catchment area of the Dambagastalawa Oya, a torrential stream which flows by the railway track to cause, farther downstream, the beautiful Elgin Falls which may be clearly viewed from the railway track. The surrounding country is wild, lonely and beautiful.
Not far away, by the main road and approximately halfway between Hakgala and Welimada, are Wilson's Plains. This area may no longer be considered back of beyond, unless one takes to the footpaths that cross the Plains and go on for miles to the hills and valleys beyond. w
At Nuwara Eliya, within the municipal limits of the city, are the Moon Plains. There is naturally, nothing very remote about this place, except that from it radiate a number of footpaths into the wilderness surrounding the Bomuraela oya. Situated on either side of this stream are the Kandapola Sita Eliya Forest Reserve and the Sita Eliya Sanctuary.
Though most of them could hardly be described as remote or back of beyond, the sanctuaries in the hill country are hardly known-perhaps because they have nothing spectacular in the form of wildlife to offer. They are, however, unique and beautiful, each in its own way, and are worthy even of a cursory visit.
Rising to 6,000 feet and over, the Sita Eliya Sanctuary is a rugged wilderness of tall trees, ferns and creepers. There are no roads through it; only a few footpaths, one from the main road near the
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52nd mile and others leading out from the roads to the Moon Plain and the state potato farm. Its inhabitants are mainly birds and monkeys-a surprisingly large number of monkeys. The trackless wilderness continues north of the Bomuraela oya into the vicinity of the tea plantations of Ragala.
Two miles down the road are the Hakgala Gardens, and behind, the large expanse of the Hakgala Strict Natural Reserve, which stretches to Ambewela railway station and the area around the 7, 27-foot Hakgala peak.
Within the Nuwara Eliya city limits is the Galway's Land Sanctuary, which harbours a variety of bird life for about half the year.
The Horton Plains Nature Reserve coincides approximately with the area covered by the Horton Plains. It is wild and beautiful in its loneliness, marred only by the potato plantations and the garish modernity of the new buildings constructed for the Agriculture Department. One can, however, yet walk for miles through the grass, on the black clay, pausing occasionally at a cold brook, and not see anyone at all.
No longer do deer and leopard freely roam the Plains, as they once did. A few linger on, however, in the forested ridges, as do a few jackals and possibly some civet cats. There was a time when elephants trundled across the Plains, but the last one left those lofty heights some time in the 1920s or the early 1930s.
The Tangamalai Sanctuary, briefly referred to earlier, is hardly known, even to people in the area. Situated at an elevation of 5,600 feet, it stretches for five miles, commencing at the outskirts of Haputale town, in a westerly direction, terminating at the dalgashin na railway station. The railway track from Idalgashinna to Haputale forms the sanctuary's northern boundary. The sanctuary, which includes two peaks-Batgodde (5,422 feet) and Berragala North (5,832 feet)-is not much more than half a mile wide at its widest point. It abounds in bird life, and commands a magnificent view of the southern part of the country, particularly of the hills, valleys and plains that service the Walawe river.
A footpath runs through the sanctuary, commencing a little over a mile from Haputale on the road to Weimada, going on to ldalgashinna station and thence to Ohiya. A number of streams cut across the contours of the sanctuary, providing crystal-clear water the year round. Rarely visited, rarely seen, it is a singularly beautiful place and is particularly suited to camping-but only in the dry season.
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The Peak Wilderness Sanctuary is well known-but not all of it. It stretches from the region of Norton Bridge and the Laxapana Falls, south of Adam's Peak, north of the Gijimale and Bambarabotuwa Forest Reserves, through Kotiyagala and the Balangoda Group tea estate right into the Horton Plains area. At two places the southern boundary of the sanctuary comes right down to the road: at Belihiul Oya and also at Halpe between the 105th and 107th miles on the road to Haputale.
The Peak Wilderness Sanctuary may also be entered, from the south and east, via Rasagalla (six miles from Balangoda) and Alupola (about fifteen miles from Ratnapura)-both routes are only footpaths through forested hills. Another approach is through the village of Pinnawala, about fourteen miles from Balangoda on a road across the valley of the Walawe river from the road to Rasagalla. The road divides at Pinnawala. The branch to the left proceeds through the village of Huduhakurukanda, through two tea estates and then becomes a footpath that wanders by and across streams into the high forests of the Sanctuary. In this wild and desolate area are two waterfalls-the Diyanella Falls and the Uraella Falls-that are hardly known and still less have been seen by most people.
The Peak Sanctuary may be approached from the north (from Maskeliya, Upcot and Bogawantalawa) through the Gartmore, Meeria Cotta and Fetteresso and Devonsford tea estates, respectively. The road from Bogawantalawa through Campion and Fetteresso estates across the ridge into the Balangoda Group (via Maratenne Estate) was recently improved to permit jeepable passage.
The entire area is remote, virtually inaccessible and completely back of beyond; it is also green, fresh and pure, devoid of noise save for the sounds of the forest and of the wind whipping through the trees.
Below the sanctuary area and crossed by one of the pilgrim routes to Adam's Peak is a part of the country which, despite its proximity to Colombo, is little known to most people. It is an area with the largest concentration of waterfalls in the entire country. It lies in the Maliboda area of the Kegalla District, about 25 miles from Avissawela. Apart from the acres of rubber, the area is notable for the abundance, variety and profusion of its vegetation. In the hills above are the laxapana Falls while close by are three other falls-the Elapita Falls, Puwakmala Falls and Dotulu Ella Falls. This area may be reached from Avissawella via Dehiowita, Deraniyar gala and Maliboda, or from Parakaduwa via Deraniyagala. All
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three falls are reached by a motorable road from Mali boda. This road ends near the Dotulu Ella Falls.
Close by is the range of hills that separates the valley of the
Kelani river in the region of Kitulgala from the Maliboda area. The hills are thickly forested and are inaccessible to vehicles of any description. Several footpaths cross the range, however, shortening the journey from Kitulgala to Maliboda by much more than half. A hike through this forest is tough but interesting. From Kitulgala to Maliboda (about nine miles) takes around three hours-not counting frequent stops to peel the leeches off, if one should go into this severgreen, ever-damp region un prepared and unprotected. Wellington boots should be used, if these are available; alternatively, shoes and legs should be well rubbed down with soap-until the soap dries on the leather and the skin-before departure. Frequent rubbings with soap are necessary in the course of the journey. A rub-down with citronella oil-much more expensive-is also effective. く
North of Kitulgala the hills rise to 2,500 feet and more; part of the land is planted in tea; part of it is abandoned tea, while the rest is wilderness. The area abounds in streams and little waterfalls, and is often covered in mist. It is a meeting place for several roads, all of which terminate abruptly at dead-ends, beaten by the mountains. One road comes up from Yatiyantota through Punugala; another from Bulathkohupitiya to Dedugala; another from Mawanella through Aranayaka and Ambalakanda; another from Nawalapitiya through Dolosbage; another from Rambukpitiya, on the Nawalapitiya-Ginigathena road; and yet another from Kitulgala to the village of Mahabage, at an elevation of a little over a thousand feet.
Among other areas in the hill country which are rarely frequented are:
The Great Western Range, which towers over the LindulaTalawakelle area; it is covered in thick forest and harbours wild pig as well as deer. Woodcutters who occasionally scale the ridge that forms the Summit claim to have seen both leopard and what, by their descriptions, would appear to be either civet cats or rusty-spotted cats. An excellent view is obtained from the 7,000foot altitude; Adam's Peak, Pidurutalagala and Kirigalpota are all clearly visible. The base of the range may be reached in a vehicle from Watagoda-turn off at Watagoda across the railway track along estate road to Great Western. It takes a stiff climb of more than 2,000 feet to reach the summit. Great Western railway station lies at the foot of the range.
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The Nalanda Reservoir, an intermediate source of the Amban ganga, lies west of the main road to Dambulla from Matale and east of the Matale-Galewela road, and only a mile or so from the Nalanda resthouse. A secluded area, it is wooded but not forested, with plenty of bird life. Close by is the ancient village of Akurambode and, across the Dambulla road, the famous Nalanda Gedige, partially a ruin.
The Bopath Ella Falls, off Kuruwita, so named because it resembles a bo-leaf. About 75 feet in height, the Falls are not seen from any highway; a beautiful sight, especially if it has been raining up in the Adam's Peak range. The fall is on the Kuru ganga which, about two hundred yards beyond the drop, is joined by another stream. Between the fall and the confluence of the two streams is a large sandy area and, in the rocky bed of the Kuru ganga, several pools of cold, turbulent water. The sound of water is everywhere, and also that of birds. To get to the sandy "island it is necessary to cross the stream, which is shallow except at the height of the south-west monsoon. The sandy stretch is ideal for camping, but not in very wet weather, when prolonged rains in the hills above cause the stream to spill over, covering the entire area. The place may be reached via the Keragala estate road, which takes of the main road about a mile before Kuruwita, or via a footpath which starts near the railway bridge at Kuruwita.
The villages in the valleys beyond Nildandahinna, in the Nuwara Eliya District. Remote and primitive in many ways, they retain much that has been lost in more 'advanced' areas. Around Madulla and Udamadura, thavalam cattle may still be seen, loaded with tobacco and produce from remote cultivations heading for the bazaars in the larger villages. Nildandahinna lies four milles from Wattumulla (Mulhalkele) on the Nuwara Eliya-RagalaKandy road, and about fourteen miles from Uda Pussellawa.
Sarasuntenne, a colony on the southern bank of the Mahaveli river, bordered by thick jungle. Though the village lies at an elevation of only around 500 feet, it is in the Nuwara Eliya District (Walapone electorate). It is situated at the great bend in the river between the Victoria Falls and Minipe, and is about seven miles from the Kandy-Ragala road (turn left down the hill at Kolongastenne junction and proceed beyond the village of Pannala).
The river is full of rapids at this point. There are also many rocky islands and sand banks. Fish abound in the pools and fruit on the trees in the forest on both banks. Across the river the forest is dense, harbouring wild pig and deer, occasionally leopard and elephant. A timber contractor has cut a road by the river,
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-upstream along its southern side-a pity, in some ways, but this provides access to a reas along the river which otherwise Could not possibly have been reached even on foot. By a path by the river, it is about eight miles to the Rantambe gorge from here.
The Minipe Anscut and the gorge carved by the Mahaweli river at Rantam be in its final descent from the Thountains are two out-of-the-way spots in the Kandy District worth visiting.
About ten miles from Weragam tota, where the road from Kandy crosses the Mahaweli to enter the great open plains of Mahiyangana and the east, lies the small village of Minipe, at the end of a road that hugs the left bank of this majestic river. The village itself is uninteresting-a cluster of huts and two or three boutiques that have very little to offer. The ancient circuit bungalow (it still stands at the end of the road proper, across the Minipe Yoda Ela Canal) has been taken over by an official for his residem CC.
The famous canal makes its appearance a mile or so on the road from Weragam tota, Crossing the road Several times as it wriggles its way through the rich rice fields by the left bank of the river, The canal accompanies the road right down through Diyabubula, Handaganawa and Ambagahapelessa, and on to Minipe, where the road terminates abruptly on the right bank of the canal, opposite the circuit bungalow,
A wide, motorable gravel road, on the crest of the bund separating the canal from the river, goes on for a mile and a half, bounded by the cliffs that mark the trace of the canal and the woods on the bank of the river till, quite suddenly, it ends at the control sluices at the Minipe Anicut.
Here, the surging mass of the river, having gained considerable velocity at the Rantam be gorge less than two miles upstream, is arrested by a low dam which swings some of the water around leftwards into the Minipe Yoda Ela. The present construction is an improvement on the original arrangement for the diversion, considered one of the major achievements of the ancient Sinhalese engineers. In contrast with the rapids up-river (and some downriver as well), the water here flows over the lip of the dam evenly and smoothly, Beyond the dam, on the opposite bank of the river, is thick forest, broken by the 1,447-foot Kurukanda, around the base of which flows the Badulu oya, which has its origin in the Namunukula ranges.
At the end of the road to the anicut is a stone slab, erected in a vertical position under an ornamental protective hood. The slab,
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discovered during excavation work at the site of the an icut some years ago, tells, in ancient Sinhala script, of how and why the an icut came to be constructed. By the original slab is another, containing a translation in English by the late Dr. S. Paranavitana.
Beyond the anicut the road degenerates into a wery rough jeep track which goes on through the forest to Rantombe, Kimbulantota, Tawalantenne, the Wictoria Falls and thence to Tel deniya and beyond.
From the anicut the track rises and falls as it goes over undulating rough country, crossing the Kalagolla oya stream. A little over a mile from the commencement of the jeep track a footpath takes off to the right to the mountains, serving the villages of Kelagola, Muttctuten na and Kumbukkolatenna (where the path divides, that to the right joining the Minipe road at Diyabubula and that to the left going on through the scrub and the hills to Mahawala and thence to Madugoda).
The jeep track in this area is a very rough one and at places would certainly tax the capacity of the studiest vehicle. A mile beyond, the track di wides again, and is no longer jeepable. The path to the right ascends steadily, roughly parallel to the Maha Oya stream, and goes on to the villages of Bembiya, Kandegama and Rankiriyagola, all in the forested hills south of Madugoda. The path to the left skirts newly-opened areas, crosses the Maha oya and goes straight on to the river,
At this stage the roar of the river may be heard as it forces its way through the great Rantarn be gorge and the numerous gullies and over the rapids that characterise the river here. The river, which is quite wide, is a mass of carved and chiselled rock, fashioned into the most fantastic shapes by the scouring action of the turbulent waters over countless centuries. To the left of the main gorge is a smaller one, where the flow of the river is even more tempestuous. The action of the water here has carved out of the rock miniature caverns that lead into others, and also a large chimney-like vertical hollow that must stand at least twenty feet high-very much like the case of an Egyptian mummy. The rocks have a characteristic red colour.
The entire area is wild and desolate, the roar from the gorge dominating everything. The gorge is seen at its best during the dry months of July and August when the river is not in spate,
Also of some interest in the mid-hill country are several ancient
villages that lie below the Haldummulla-Beragala-Koslanda-Wellawaya road. Some of them are so remote that, until very recent

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times, their inhabitants hardly ever visited the towns on the road above. Today, however, some of these villages are connected by road and even by bus services (one or two buses a day, in most cases).
Among these villages is Soragune (Horagonne on the map), to which there is an infrequent bus service from Haputale. It lies in the valley below Haldummulla, about nine miles from the main road. The area beyond is still the haunt of wild animals, including sambur and leopard. Villagers in the area even claim to have encountered bear on some occasions. Beyond the village, which is bordered by an abandoned anicut, are thick jungle and open patana.
Other villages of interest in the area are Bambaragaskanda (south of Kalupahana; footpath only); Rannanguhawa, Dadayampola and Bulatwatte, south of Beragala (footpath only); Nikapotha (by road from Dikkapitiya) ; Nikapitiya (by footpath from Gampaha). Above the main road, in this area, there are no villages; only tea and rubber estates and the roads that serve them. These roads are worth a walk on, if only for the magnificent scenery: to Upper Lyegrove and Monarakanda (near 125th mile Route A3); to Meeriabedde, Malvern and Poonagalla (turn off opposite Koslanda resthouse); to Macaldeniya and Cabragalla, Mahakande and Poonagalla (take off to the left, up the hill, from Koslanda town). From Fellside Estate, beyond Mahakande, footpaths lead off into the wilderness of the Ella Gap-an area of rugged hills, many streams and waterfalls.
At the other extremity of the hill country, on the border of the Matale District, lies the Knuckles Range-ridge after ridge of rugged mountains going up to 6,000 feet, yet barely known, explored or exploited. It is a roadless, nameless area; there are only a few villages, most of them far down in the foothills which flatten out towards the Mahaveli close by. The only roads which provide access to this area are those from Hunnasgiriya through Corbett's Gap to Rangalla and Madulkelle and from Matale through Rattota to the villages around Meda Ela and beyond to Karagahatenna. Beyond tie the new gemming areas in the valley of the Kalu ganga, a tributary of the Amban ganga.
Beyond this wilderness are the villages of the river-among them Wilgomuwa and Hembarawa. Most of them are ancient settlements. Some, abandoned or partially abandoned in years past, are now gaining a new lease of life in the wake of the gem-rush that had engulfed the area. This area is now accessible by road from Matale via Rattota, Midlands and Pallegama, and from the north to Pallegama via Elahera. A narrower road goes from Pallegama to Wilgomuwa,
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where it joins the track into the Wasgomuwa Strict Natural Reserve from the Kandy-Mahiyangana road.
The area, especially around Hembarawa, abounds in wild life. Elephants, leopard, wild pig, deer and bear, as well as that elusive creature, the pangolin, may be encountered here.
About 22 miles north of Hembarawa, the river breaks up into a number of small channels, seven of them, creating several islands. One of them is about a mile long and not more than a few hundred yards at its widest point, while at its northern end it narrows down considerably. This is the island of Kalinga Nuwara where, in medieval times, monks were ordained. The island is situated just beyond the confluence of the Nawagaha ela with the Mahaveli. On the left bank, the Pitakanda ela breaks away from the river, to rejoin it some way beyond Kalinga Nuwara. By the island, the river takes a sharp right turn. On its southern bank commences the Kalinga Yoda Ela.
The island of Kalinga Nuwara today presents much evidence of its former glory. All over are traces of ruined structuresclusters of ancient bricks and the remains of stone pillars, and carved stone makara balustrades near what were the entrances to buildings. The archaeological remains, according to R. L. Brohier, include the foundations of large halls whose dimensions were 72 feet by 5 feet, seemingly elliptical in shape, circular, low brick-walled enclosures and even traces of a roadway which runs for about half a mile.
According to tradition, the Kalinga Nuwara area was the site of a boat-building industry established by the ancient kings. Brohler does not discount the tradition since he says, "the section of the river between these islands and the sea of Trincomalee is of sufficient depth at all times to be navigable for small vessels while, moreover, the borders of the river bear high forest timbers suitable for boatbuilding.'
Four miles beyond are the turbulent Dastota rapids along a three-mile stretch of the river, which here runs directly from west to east. To the south is the ancient village of Yakkure by the Handapan villu, a large grassy area which turns into a massive marsh in the rainy season.
From Polonnaruwa, Kalinga Nuwara may be reached via Gallela and crossing over the Mahaveli river at Dastota. From there a footpath leads on to the island in the river.
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West of Dastota and bordered by the river at Kalinga Nuwara is the Wasgomuwa Intermediate Zone, and still farther west and for some distance south the Wasgomuwa Strict Natural Reserve. The Amban ganga and the Mahaveli river form the western and eastern boundaries, respectively, of the Reserve. Apart from jeep tracks, the Reserve is now motorable (along fair-weather roads) from the South-via Hasalaka-upto Yodagannawa and from the north via Angamedilla.
A few miles to the north, bordering the northern end of the Parakrama Samudra and stretching from Jayanthipura to Kaduruwela is the Polonnaruwa Sanctuary. Its proximity to a high-activity area leaves little of interest in this sanctuary. Eight miles to the north-west, however, along the Polonnaruwa-Giritale-Habarana road lies the Minneriya-Giritale Sanctuary, around the two tanks by those names. The two tanks are separated by a patch of thick jungle in which elephant, bear and leopard co-exist. In this forest is situated a lonely and almost inaccessible village, Beddepanwela, which has bred its own breed of sturdy hunters and farmers. The area around both tanks, and particularly around the Giritale wewa, is large, open grassland. This is particularly so in the dry season, when the tanks dry up, exposing contours that are not visible at full supply level. Here birds of various types may be seen at play-eagles, Indian darters and herons among them-and also engaged in the more serious business of competing for the fat fish of which there seems to be a never-ending supply in both reservoirs.
In the dry months when the land lies parched and bare and cultivation is no longer possible, farmers in the area switch to fishing for a while. On the southern shores of the Giritale wewa one may see many vadiyas, temporary working quarters, set up by these people, who collect the fish from the tank and smoke them over open fires. Only a part of the catch is salted. Much of the salted fish, apparrently, is "exported' to coastal towns such as Negombo. However incredible this may seem it is nevertheless true. Spend a nightpreferably a moonlit night-with the men in one of these vadiyas. Apart from listening to (and learning from) their interesting chatter, watch several herds of elephant emerge from the tree-line to spend most of the night on the bank of the tank, where they flatten out the grass on which they leave a trail of droppings.
North of this sanctuary is the Veddikachchi Intermediate Zone, still wild and densely forested in its northern and eastern regions. It is partly bounded by the Habarana-Trincomalee road and includes within its area the Alut Oya railway station and the village of Medirigiriya and the ancient ruins bearing the same name, as well as the village of Kaudulla and the Kaudulla tank. Despite the extensive agricultural and archaeological activity in the area, the Veddikachchi
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Reserve is still a treasure-house of Nature. The Kaudulla tank, especially in the dry season (when it still retains a good part of its supply) attracts a wide range of animals as well as birds, both of which do not display their customary reserve in the presence of human beings.
Both Medirigiriya and Kaudulla may be reached today along reasonably good roads, from the rail-head and agricultural centre at Hingurakgoda. At Medirigiriya is the famous vatadage, restored a few years ago. Fair-weather roads lead into the wilderness beyond, connecting the villages of Migaswewa, Wadigewewa and Nikawewa and on through the Kantalai-Allai jungles to Koddiyar and Tambalagam Bays.
To the north-east, beyond the Allai tank and what is now the Ullackalielagoon, lies lankaiturai, an ancient port which, according to legend, played no mean part in shaping the history of this country.
This port-that-used-to-be, lying as it does on a little-frequented spit of land to which access is secured only through a secondary road, is hardly known outside the area of its location which is itself, for most purposes, off the beaten track.
Ilankaiturai (also known as langaturai or by its ancient name, Lanka Patuna) is situated on the eastern coast about eleven miles south of Foul Point in the Trincomalee District. Access is via the Valaichchenai-Trincomalee (East Coast) road, about six miles along the Ichchilampattai road from the turn-off at the 50th mile on the main road.
in distant times this little settlement was a thriving port, as its name would indicate (turai in Tamil meaning "port'). Though its surroundings have undoubtedly undergone changes over the centuries, its geographical position certainly rendered it ideal for the activities that could have been associated with a port in those far-off times.
There is little in the accepted historical records to indicate the importance of this port to the people who once populated this part of the country. Legend, however, has it that Lanka Patuna was an international port of some consequence in ancient days before the early kings of Anuradhapura.
That this place once flourished as the centre of an active community is testified to by the abundance and variety of archaeological remains in the area. Merchants from abroad visiting this country were believed to have worshipped at the Samudra Giri Vihara, which was situated at the entrance to the ancient port.
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The Coast weddahs who live in poverty-stricken hamlets in the area are held, in local tradition, to be the descendants of the original settlers from Kalinga who built here a temple in honour of the Sun. These people today also inhabit the little village of Motuwaram, South of lankaiturai.
it is also possible-and, as an interesting diversion, even preferable-to get to Lanka Patuna by sea from Trincomalee. A small mechanised boat may be hired for this purpose.
The approaches to Lanka Patuna may seem drab, uninteresting and even inhospitable. Once there, however, the impact on a visitor-particularly a first-time visitor-is remarkable. The country here is in many respects very different from the surrounding areas. its isolation from the well-trodden route, the fact that it may be reached only by sandy tracks and its immunity up to now to commercialisation all give it a character that is unique.
North of Ilankaiturai and Uppural is an area which is considered back of beyond even by the "locals'. It is an area of salt-flats, of marshes, of lagoons and abandoned tanks. There is only one hamlet of any consequence-Ilakkantai, about half-way on the gravel road from Uppural to Sampur, which is on the road from Mutur to Foul Point. The beaches here are rich in shells tossed up by the ocean during the northeast monsoon.
South-west of Ilankaiturai is the recently-proclaimed Somavati Sanctuary, stretching along the lower reaches of the Mahaveli river enclosing both major branches of the river and bordered by the Kantalai-Allai road. A dry weather road goes through most of the sanctuary, from Polonnaruwa via Tambala and Sungawila. Within the sanctuary is the recently restored Somavati dagaba.
South of the sanctuary, at a spot named Anaikallu on the Mahaveli river is the head of an elephant carved in rock. Little is known of the origin of this sculpture; it is, nevertheless, a sightworth seeing. The spot is approached via the village of Onegama, about nine miles from Polonnaruwa. There is a good road up to Onegama; to Anaikallu, in the vicinity of the village of Katupilara, requires a walk of about three miles. To the south of Anaikallu, the river forms a loop, encompassing what, in the dry season, is a large island. Over a ferry, the village of Katuwanwila is just about a mile away, across the Mutugalla Villu.
North, near Kantalai tank is the sanctuary around Tambalagam, (Tampalakamam), known as the Naval Headworks Sanctuary. It
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partially borders the road to Trincomalee, from about the 42nd mile to the 52nd mile. From about the 50th milepost, a fairweather road goes for a short distance into the sanctuary, terminating at a tank within. This sanctuary includes a part of the Kantalal forest north of the Kantalai tank.
Farther north, on the eastern coast beyond Tiriyai and four miles or so from the Mineral Sands Corporation's works at Pulmoddai is the Kokkilai lagoon, which is a sanctuary. A rough road goes around it, through Amarivayal and Tennamaravadi to link with a similar road from Mullaitivu through Karuvaddukkeni to Kokkilai village. The lagoon is fairly deep and receives three fresh-water streams, the Mee oya, the Ma oya and the Churian aru. Except for the Ma oya, the other streams tend to dry up during the hot months. Clusters of mangroves thrive on the lagoon's edge and in their shade is bird life in plenty. Storks, in particular, appear to fancy Kokkilai lagoon very much, and may be seen here through most of the year. There is a good beach, on the narrow spit of land between lagoon and
Sea.
Securing supplies of fresh water in this area could pose a problem in the long, dry months from April to around the beginning of October. Despite the seasonal showers, the best time of the year for visiting is between October and February.
Still farther up the coast, skirted by a rough road from Mullaitivu to Pallai, is another little-known and rarely frequented bird sanctuary, the Chundikkulam lagoon. The Sanctuary covers not only the entire lagoon, as in the case of Kokkilai, but also part of the area around it. It once formed part of the Jaffna lagoon and was saline, but is reported to be losing some of its salinity after the closure of the passage at the Elephant Pass causeway. A number of fresh-water streams, including one from the Iranamadu tank, flow into this lagoon. Not all of them, however, contain any appreciable quantity of water except during the north-east monsoon period. Bird life is very similar to that which may be observed at Kokkilai. The nearest railway station is at Paranthan, from where a road leads to Kandavalai, at the edge of the sanctuary.
The Jaffna Peninsula proper had, up to recent times, been singularly lacking in such places of retreat where man, bird and beast could co-exist in harmony and goodwill and where a man could disappear for a short while into some place back of beyond.
Parititivu is a sanctuary situated off the western coast of the peninsula, between the larger islands of Eluvaitivu and Analaitivu.
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Parititivu, is a narrow, low islet about 48 acres in extent populated by one family whose livelihood is fishing.
Access is via Kayts, from where a regular ferry service operates twice daily to the adjoining isle of Eluvaitivu. From here, a boat may be hired for the journey to Parititivu, about a mile away. The sea between the islands is very shallow, exposing tidal sand flats. The island is surrounded by a rugged shore line of coral formation, a very small beach providing the only means for approach by boat.
An area of about five acres is cultivated with coconut and chena crops-chillies, brinjal, and tomatoes. The rest of it is in jungle, consisting mainly of 10-foot-high thorn shrub in which nestle scores of birds' nests, old and new. The birds that breed here are egrets, heron and bittern. Several other species of birds including cormorants, mynahs and parakeets in their thousands seek the safety of the island at dusk to roost. It is also the resting place of a large number of fruit bats by day. The ring dove is found in fair numbers and has made the isle its home. مح۔
On the rocky shore and on the tidal flats close by, several species of terns (large-crested, small-crested, white-shafted) and brown-headed gulls may be observed resting and preening themselves, The gulls are in evidence only between October and April each year.
Way back of beyond, completely off all beaten tracks, isolated even from the regular ferry service, Parititivu is an island where one may find almost total peace and solitude, the only disturbance, if indeed it could be described thus, being the shrill cries of the bird population.
Because of its small size, the island lacks supplies of fresh water, the water available invariably being brackish. Visitors to Parititivu are advised, therefore, to take along with them a supply of water.
Passing reference may also be made to three other sanctuaries or reserves in the north-the Melkulam intermediate Zone, which may be reached by road from Omantai (eight miles north of Vavuniya); the Madhu Road Sanctuary, which stretches northwards from the Madhu church to Palampiddi; and the Giant's Tank Sanctuary which encompasses the entire tank and some of the flat country on its eastern edge. This sanctuary borders the road to Mannar, from about the 28th mile to the 35th mile and teems with bird life.
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Contrary to the expectations of people not acquainted with the North Central and Eastern Provinces, the great plains that cover much of the area are not all flat. A fact that is even less well known is that, scattered on these plains, seemingly in purposeless abandon, are large hills, even mountain ranges, as high or even higher than some of the better-known hill resorts. What is more, these hills, strange and mysterious in many ways and certainly enchanting and exciting to one who looks for something new, something different in the back of beyond, are rarely visited, still less frequented, even by the inhabitants of the sparsely populated areas in which they are situated. And yet, nearly all of them figure in some way in the history of this country.
Among the more important of these 'mountains in the plains' are the 1,800-feet Ritigala range between Habarana and Maradankadawala in the North Central Province, Dimbulagala or Gunner's Quoin (,753 feet) also in the same province, Nuwaragala in the Amparai District, of the Eastern Province and Westminster Abbey (1,83 feet) in the Moneragala District of the Uva Province.
These hills were once fortresses or the refuge of kings or monks and bear evidence, to this day, of their ancient habitation. They contain many ruins as well as caves that were lived in centuries agO. ۔۔۔۔۔
Of these hills perhaps the best known are Ritigala, with a summit of 2,54 feet, and Dimbulagala.
Standing almost a thousand feet higher than the elevation of Kandy, Ritigala is a little bit of the hill country in the Dry Zone. Climatic conditions in its upper regions, often shrouded in mist, are very similar to those obtaining in the hills around Kandy; so is the vegetation around the summit.
r
Dimbulagala or Gunner's Quoin, as it is popularly known, is a huge rock outcrop. Nearly three miles long it rises dramatically l,753 feet high above the vast plains just south of Manampitiya.
Quite naturally the Veddahs made their homes in the caves of this rock and, the great hunters that they were, set off for the chase in the animal infested plains below. Yet it was not only the veddah who climbed into its fastness. Many inscriptions and ruins that lie scattered about it bear evidence of habitations 300 years before the Christian era and up to just 700 years ago.
The climb to the summit is no easy task yet very rewarding.
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The ancient rock fortress of Nuwaragala may be considered the counterpart of Sigiriya, in the south-east of the lsland. Brahmi inscriptions in a cave just below the summit indicate that it was occupied in the 2nd Century B.C. Local tradition has it that a fortress built here by Kavan Tissa-had three miles of stone ramparts.
There is ample evidence that the entire area, now the home of the elephant, bear and leopard, was in ancient times the centre of a civilization.
The rock rises with startling suddenness out of the forest. The path becomes progressively steeper as it winds round the base, until the climb proper begins. The ascent from here is along an ancient stairway retained by a rubble wall.
On the summit is a large artificial rock pool,72 feet by 59 feet and 5 feet deep, presumably used as a bathing pool. There are also the remains of a building lost in a tangle of undergrowth. The veddah guide you are advised to hire at Pollebedda will show you the remains of what he calls a maligawa (palace)-now a huge mound of earth. On the sides of the rock are the remains of enormous walls and stone parapets.
On the western face of the rock is a large cave containing inscriptions. Dr. Paranavitana was convinced that the rock was a refuge or a staging base for the armies of the Raja Rata, as it is strategically situated in the vicinity of the ancient road from Magama to Raja Rata.
Close to the village of Pollebadda are the ruins of an ancient irrigation channel. A layer of juxtaposed stone slabs covers an area of about 500 feet. On this layer are three vertical rows of single slabs of rock each about 3 feet high at one end and 5 feet at the other. Each slab is 0 feet to 5 feet long and is dovetailed into the next.
Westminster Abbey, one of the most prominent features of the road to the south from Inginiyagala, is a spire of rock that shoots out into the sky at the south-east corner of the Gal Oya sanctuary. Located on the one-inch topographic sheet of Pottuvil as a ridge rising to a height of 1,831 feet at the edge of the Moneragala District, it acquired its present name from the description given of it by early British travellers along the sea route of the eastern coast of Sri Lanka.
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A fortress at Some time in the days of the Sinhalese kings, it is today covered in jungle, except for the summit, which is a shaft of rock that rises vertically from the main mass of the range. This mountain is referred to in the Mahavamsa as the refuge of a prince from the north who had been driven out by the invading king, Kalinga Maha Naga.
So steep is the cap of rock constituting its summit that it may be reached only after negotiating a series of ladders fashioned from jungle vines.
On one side of the main spire of rock is a long, narrow granite ridge resembling an enormous iguana precariously clinging to the stone. The veddahs, a primitive hunting tribe, hence gave it the name Go-inda-hela.
The climb commences along its ridge, through a mantle of forest, the floor of which is littered with decaying leaves and leaf mould. It is the habitat of myriads of insects that have a tendency to crawl up one's limbs.
Halfway up are six steps cut in a slab of stone. Still higher is a formation of cut granite resembling a bastion or look-out post. Between this and the summit are needed seven adders and vines interspersed between crevices, boulders and trees to aid the climb. The longest ladder is 25 feet in length. The fifth ladder, about 1,600 feet up, hangs precariously from a tree. Half way up this ladder, one perforce clings to it at an obtuse angle. At this stage it would be safer to slip between two steps of the ladder and continue on the opposite side at an easier angle, rather than lose one's equilibrium and drop almost 1,600 feet!
Where the forested end of the ridge meets the shaft of rock is an enormous cave, 300 to 400 feet high and about 150 feet in length.
The summit is reached after much puffing and panting. Here are the remains of an old civilisation. The ruins of a dagaba, two artificially-cut rock pits, an old well cut in the rock and faced and topped off with ancient brick and mortar; a pond built in a natural depression with its sides paved with eight vertical rows of cut granite, making it 12 feet in depth and, above this, old brick debris suggesting the remains of a building. Farther of are 152 stone pillars.
The vegetation at the summit is a mixture of heavy shrub, xerophytic plants, mana grass and wild pineapple.
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Almost directly north is thę giant. Senanayake Samudra and as your eye roves clockwise, the blue tanks of the Gal Oya basingisten. Further east, now almost merging with the Sea, is the Periya kalapuwa and much closer inland the twin Peak, Konduruhela. Towards the south are the kalapu Was of the Kumana Sanctuary and the green vastness of the National Park which backdrops the striking Monera-gala. Almost directly South are the Peaks of Kataragama. Towards the east are the mighty hills of the HaPutale, Namunukula and Poonagala ranges. Now, almost north again, are the many peaks that reach high over the Senanayake Samudra.
This description of places and things far removed from the centres of activity by no means exhausts the Possibilities for individual experience in what remains in this country of back of beyond.
But then, Back of Beyond is where one finds it, not necessarily in the desolation of some remote fastness. A hundred yards from a busy highway there might lie something of enduring interest, inaccessible to all but those whose spirit dares them to seek and to find.
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CHAPTER i5
Caves and caverns
PLOP For a brief moment the heavy silence of the unending night is broken. A trickle has succumbed to gravity. Another drop forms, replacing that which has fallen, and is similarly destined. The echoes die away in diminishing surges, to merge with the low rumble that forever rolls in the deep recesses of perpetual darkness. Then, PLOP again. And the drama, which began perhaps before man appeared on earth, continues, its one-act climax repeated endlessly through aeons of time.
To enter into this timeless dimension is indeed an experience, calling not only for personal courage but also for some measure of attraction to things as yet unknown. For who is the explorer, amateur or otherwise, who has not quaked even momentarily as he set out in an effort to prise from the unlit, unseen and uncharted depths the secrets of the ages? Yet this is the essence of the call of the cavern, the challenge thrown out by Nature a million years or more ago.
And so, men have dared the mountains, descending into their depths to gaze in wonder at the glory of the primeval splendour and to measure in new perspective the insignificance of their own Stature.
Spelaeology (or the art and science of 'caving in and out) is still regarded in many quarters as an eccentricity. Unfortunately so, perhaps, for this new science has not as yet contributed as much
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as it should have done to the sum total of our knowledge of the thin layer of upper crust on which our existence is so delicately balanced.
The hobby of caving and pot-holing so popularly indulged elsewhere is hardly known in this country. Why this should be so may be attributed to the fact that Sri Lanka, as far as is known, possesses only a few natural formations that lend themselves to this type of activity and so very little is known concerning such formations that we do have; even their locations are often matters of myth and legend, while only some of them, mainly those with historical or religious connections, have been honoured with a place on the map.
And yet, some of this country's caves are natural museums, preserving for us the indelible records of the distant past, of times when the rhinoceros and the hippopotamus roamed the plains and wallowed in the tropical marshes, when men-our own forbearsexisted in conditions that set them only slightly apart from the more advanced of their animal contemporaries.
Our little island does not possess such magnificent natural subterranean edifices as the Carlsbad caves or the caverns of the Dordogne, so absorbingly described by the French explorer Norbert Casteret in his book Ten Years Under The Earth. We do, however, have some that so far have been but barely explored and which invite both amateur and professional to further investigation.
Our caves, like most caves anywhere, especially the deeper ones, are cavities in the earth caused by the action of chemical substances contained in solution in running water on limestone or similar transitory formations. Water percolating through permeable or semi-permeable strata over periods of from a thousand or two thousand years to several hundred centuries carries away much of this strata in solution, to be deposited elsewhere in new stratigraphical layers, leaving at the original sites empty hollows outlined by the harder rocks that have resisted chemical decomposition. Certain physical phenomena, too, are known to have produced caves. These include earthquakes and volcanic activity in the course of which huge boulders are thrown up and settle down in no particular pattern, as well as subterranean subsidences, which result in sudden fracturing and crumpling of rock masses on the earth's surface, giving rise to formations that would not normally occur through the process of weathering. Caverns are also gouged out of limestone or soft rock formations by the battering force of water directed at the rock face at high pressure. Hence the existence of caves in close proximity to rivers or turbulent streams and also at the bases of waterfalls of steep cliffs.
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Prospective explorers are always advised to secure as much information as is possible from "locals' before venturing into a cavern. Such information should include data on rainfall and how the cave that is to be entered "reacts' to rainfall in the neighbourhood (some caves, remember, are "collecting houses' for underground streams, and the sudden swelling of such streams could pose serious hazards to a wanderer far down below). As a general rule it is always best to avoid caves, particularly the larger ones, in excessively wet weather. ۔۔۔۔
Adventure shared is adventure enjoyed. For this and for other reasons which should be obvious, exploration of caverns should be undertaken by at least two persons, preferably more, unless a pot-holer is very sure of himself. Some basic equipment is also necessary-matches and candles, a four or five-cell torch, 20 to 30 feet of nylon or thick coir rope, a ball of twine (tied to a stone at the entrance and led along, this should help a pot-holer retrace his steps should he lose his way). For footwear, use Wellington boots, preferably, or rubber or canvas-Soled shoes. Leather bottoms could prove risky on slippery surfaces.
Caves in this country may be classified in two general categories: those with historical-religious associations and thoseinvariably much older-with no such associations but possibly connected directly with the ages before history. It is the latter category which is of special interest to the explorer. There is a third category which is of little interest at all-the scores of small caves, many of them little more than rock shelters, which lie scattered over the plains. Some of them have been, and still are, the homes of forest dwellers, particularly the bear and the leopard, while most caves harbour such relatively harmless creatures as fruit bats and porcupines.
Our topography is such that most caves of interest are within striking (or hiking) distance of a good road. While it may not be true to say that there is invariably a cavern in the town, a little investigation will often show that there is something like one not very far away
For the convenience of prospective cavers-caves have been grouped on a zonal basis: those in the mountainous regions, those in the foothills and the broad plains that separate the coastal flats from the mountain masses, and those on or in close proximity to the COaSt.
Mountain Zone: Though the mountain regions are not lacking in caves or cave-like structures, few of these are of any
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importance or interest. Among those that should certainly attract spelaeologists or pot-holers are the so-called Istripura caves near Welimada and those in the lower basin of the Mahaveli river, as well as the great Wavulpane cavern on the eastern slope of the Rakwana massif and the Ravanna Ella (or Ravan Ella) cave off Ella, still shrouded in mystery.
The Istripura cave beyond Welimada is situated in close proximity to the ancient village of Paranagama, which may be reached by road (about six miles) from Welimada. The cave lies almost directly beneath the trignometrical point named Esterepure on the oneinch map, and is approached by footpath from Paranagama. The entrance to this complex of caves is on the hillside; it leads into numerous large, damp, underground galleries, some of which stretch for quite some distance into the mountain. Within the cavern, which lies at an altitude of about 4,700 feet, is a large lake of very cold water. This cavern was formed by a stream which poured into a cavity in the mountain, scouring out the galleries and underground passages.
For map readers, the location is 6°57' N, 80°54' E. The cave lies to the north-east of Paranagama and of the remains of Fort
Macdonald.
A second stripura cave is situated about a mile and a half South of the deep bend of the Mahaveli river north of the village of Pannala and approximately half way between the Victoria Falls and Minipe. Location, for map-readers, is 70' N. 80°53' E.
The cavern is described thus by Dr. P. E. P. Deraniyagala in his work Pleistocene of Ceylon: W
"This limestone cave occurs about 75 feet above the plain between the 900 and 800 feet contours on the west side of the hill as a long gash running north-west and south-east where the side of the mountain seems to have collapsed into what was originally a subterranean passage. The part that has collapsed forms an ante-chamber about 100 yards long and about 15 yards high and its floor is about 20 feet below the surface of the mountainside. The debris has been more or less washed away, and in course of time the flow of water appears to have been diverted to newer and deeper channels. The connection between them is a narrow passage about two feet in diameter which descends steeply about ten feet and enlarges, when it is almost possible for the investigator to walk upright for about 100 yards. It then narrows down once again and descends into a large subterranean chamber covered with Stalagmatic deposits about 30 feet or 40 feet below the level of the floor of the external ante-chamber.
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"Beyond it is a lake about 20 yards long and about 50 yards wide, which is about 20 feet deep in places. This chamber ramifies into various passages where the air is so deficient in oxygen that the observer is attacked by a faint sense of dizziness after a couple of hours; in the further passages this deficiency is even more marked.'
A third Istripura cave is situated near the village of Kosgolla in the valley overlooking Mulhalkelle (Watumulla) on the Kandy-Hanguranketa-Ragala road. It lies on the right bank of the Kurundu oya, which flows into the Mahaveli due north about six miles as the Crow flies. This extensive cavern, which is at an elevation of just under 2,000 feet, is festooned with stalagmite. The subterranean monster, which contains, among other things, a large lake, is 400 feet or so in length-certainly one of the largest in the country.
A little known but perfect cavern in miniature-stalactites and Stalagmites and all-is the cave overhanging the quite famous ruin called Sita Kotuwa at the foot of the eastern escarpment of the Kandyan table-land. Find a guide to this cave at Guruhupota bazaar (just below the series of hairpin bends on the Kandy-Mahiyangana road). You may have some difficulty persuading the guide, for he will talk of the danger of snakes! But here-as elsewhereSnakes although perhaps as keen explorers of the shallower depths of caverns as you are, need not scare you off; they are not common enough, nor in most cases poisonous enough, to justify that.
East of Minipe beyond the Mahaveli, but accessible at present only via the Bibile-Mahiyangana road, is a semi-circular chain of rock rising to approximately 2,500 feet above sea level and about a thouSand feet above the surrounding countryside. The chain, named Alugalgekande, contains more than one cave, of which little is known.
One of the caves best known in this country is that named after the legendary demon king of Sri Lanka, Ravana. It is situated at an elevation of 4,300 feet at the northern extremity of the Ella Rock, a great slab of primeval stone that dominates the valley of the Kirindi oya as it flows down the Ella Gap. Ravana Ella cave overlooks the Ella resthouse, from which the great rock is clearly visible, though an observer standing in the court of the rest-house would not see the entrance to the cavern, which is hidden by the configuration of the rock and by foliage.
The cave is approached via a path to a rock temple fifty to sixty feet below on the mountainside. The ascent to the mouth of the cave demands grit and determination and the tenacity of a mountain goat. An expedition to this site is not recommended in wet weather
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which, it should be added, prevails most of the time in the Ella area. March-April and August-September-early-October provide the best opportunity for easy access.
The entrance to the cave resembles an inverted map of Sri Lanka; the opening at floor level is extremely narrow and is obstructed by irregularly shaped rocks protruding from the floor. The crevice in the rock face is much wider at the upper end, though the opening, overall, is so small relative to the size of the cavern that light hardly penetrates more than a few feet from the entrance.
The cave is quite a large one-exactly how large has not been determined yet. Somewhere in its dark recesses a subterranean stream gushes in wet weather; at other times, dripping water pitpats, pit-pats in an unending effort to break the deathly silence.
This cave, like the three Istripura caves described earlier, is of interest for palaeontological reasons. Selective excavation of the cave floor almost twenty years ago yielded remains of a pre-historic culture. These consisted of crude stone and bone implements as well as parts of early human skeletons.
The cultural remains in this cave as well as in the caves off Kuruwita, Balangoda, Karawita and Wellawaya, have been assigned to an early race of indigenous Ceylonese on whom the palaeontologist Dr. Deraniyagala has conferred the name Homo Sapiens Balangodensis. The stripura caves, the Ravana Ella cave and other caves to the east are believed to have been occupied, between 2,500 and 8,000 years ago, by the Ravan tribe of Homo Sapiens Balangodensis, while the caves in the Ratnapura area were inhabited by the Udupiyan tribe. Both tribes shared the same culture with slight variations. In the view of Dr. Deraniyagala, the remains of these long-extinct people and of their implements and artefacts excavated in these caves indicate a higher cultural level than that possessed by the Veddahs of today.
Due north of Buttala are several caves, of which the only one of any interest is situated near the ancient site known as Yudaganawa, about a mile from Buttala along a minor road. Farther north, along a track a little more than a mile and a half from Buttala, is the Katugahagalge cave, at an elevation of very nearly a thousand feet. Both have historical and religious associations.
There are believed to be some small eaves among the masses of rock at the south-eastern edge of the Horton Plains massif, high above the main road between Balangoda and Haldummulla. Little is known about these, and access is virtually impossible.
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in an entirely different part of the hill country is a large cave made famous by the excretions of its only inhabitants, bats. The Nitre Cave, so named after the thick layers of nitrate left from the droppings of bats over centuries, lies at an elevation of 2,000 feet on a slope of a north-easterly extension of the Knuckles range. It may be approached via Teldeniya, Rangala, Looloowatte (Corbett's Gap) and Mimure. The cave, which is in the Knuckles wilderness, is just over three miles by jeep from Corbett's Gap, the track terminating at the foot of the hill. The final climb involves an ascent over difficult terrain on a gradient of 45 degrees in some places.
The roof of the cave varies in height from 5 to about 20 feet above floor level. The main gallery in the cavern narrows down to tail off in a narrow opening which is too small to permit entry or futher exploration. From the entrance to the cavern, passages lead off into subsidiary caves. At the left of the cavern, a spring of cool, clear water spouts from the rock.
We pass on to the region around Adam's Peak. Not far from the commencement of the final ascent to the summit, and along the pilgrim path from Ratnapura-Kuruwita, is a cave to which the name Menik Lena (meaning "Cave of Gems") has been given. PreSumably someone, perhaps a pilgrim, picked up a gemstone there, some time in the distant past. On the other side of the mountain, pilgrims using the Maskeliya route pause at a large cave formed by a mass of overhanging rock. This is situated not much more than a mile from the Dalhousie tea factory. The cave is known as Nissangala Lena, though some dispute this, holding that the true Nissangala Lena (exact location unknown) is nearer the summit.
Down the pilgrim path, and not far from it and from the village of Kuruwita on the Colombo-Ratnapura road, are two pre-historic caves, Batadombalena and Batatotalena. Both were the homes of the pre-historic Udupiyan tribe of the species Homo Sapiens Balangodensis. They also harboured various animals now extinct.
Batadombalena lies at the foot of a large rock of that name, off the Kuruwita-Eratne road. About a mile and a half up this road is the Ekneligoda Walauwa, near which a motorable road turns off to the right. This road ends after about a mile; beyond is a footpath. The cave is situated at the crest of a rocky overhang about three miles along the footpath.
Excavation of the floor of this cave yielded two human skeletons, pitted stones, bones and bone implements and animal remains. Carbon 4 tests done by Dr. Kenneth Oakley indicated that the remains were about 8,000 years old.
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Not far away is the Batatotalena cave. This is approached thus: Proceed along the Kuruwita-Eratne road for about four miles until a rubber estate is reached. Turn right into a track through the estate, A note of caution should be added here: a check with someone in the area should always be made before turning off along the track, because there are so many similar tracks here. One mistake may well lead to the Peak wilderness and not to the cave. Batatotalena lies about a mile along the track. The final stages of the walk involve a slight climb.
Excavations in this cave yielded shells (mainly of gastropods), bones and other animal remains. Stone implements used by Stone Age man were also recovered from shallow pits dug in the floor of the cave. Carbon 4 tests fixed the antiquity of the "finds' at between 2,000 and 8,000 years.
Typical of the caverns in the mountain country, this cave contains a fairly large subterranean lake of cold, clear water. There is believed to be a siphon under a rocky overhang which is submerged in this lake. This passage is believed to lead to another stretch of water beyond the main lake and thence to another cave mouth opening from the further side of the ridge.
Beyond the peak in the Norton Bridge area are two caves worth exploring. They are vividly described by P. G. Cooray in his book An Introduction to the Geology of Ceylon thus:
"Two other caves, both in the Norton Bridge area, might be mentioned. One goes by the intriguing name of "Cave of the Seven Virgins' and can be seen from the road to Maskeliya occupying a small cliff face overlooking the valley of the Maskeliya oya. The other is at the foot of Laxapana Falls and to reach it involves a steep but rewarding descent. This is a magnificent cave, partly occupied by a large pool, and what can be seen of it is thirty to forty feet in height. It is not possible to get into this cave, or even very near to it. One can only stand at a distance on the huge, rather slippery boulders that lie strewn about, and catch a glimpse through falling spray of a scene as awe-inspiring and silently majestic as something from a Rider Haggard story."
To the South-east, in the Bambarabotuwa forest reserve north of Pelmadulla, lies the Bambarabotuwa cave, at an elevation of about 3,400 feet, in the foothills of the Adam's Peak range. The cave is not easily approached from Pelmadulla; access is easier from Ratnapura, through Wewelwatte, Batewela and Gerandiela to the north of the main Ratnapura-Peimadulla road. This cave, too yielded Stone Age" finds."
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From Balangoda, the road to Uggal Kaitota descends rapidly for twenty miles along a ridge of hills that falls away sharply into the plains beyond the Walawe river. In the lower reaches of this ridge are three sets of caves -those at Budugala, Kuragala and Diyainna. The Budugala caves, including the Budugala Cave Temple, now only a monument to the past, lie at the very bottom of the escarpment about two miles from Kaltota, which is where this part of the road from Balangoda ends. Budugala is reached via a track (motorable in dry weather) along an irrigation channel. Clearly visible from this track is the massive Kuragala rock on the mountainside above. The rock contains the Kuragala cave and the Jailani Muslim shrine. Kuragala is situated at an altitude of about 1,200 feet; it may be approached by footpath from the village of Taniantenna, on , the Balangoda-Kaltota road. From the entrance chamber a branch of the Kuragala cave slopes steeply downwards and is (perpendicularly) one of the deepest in the Island. An interesting feature, but of age unknown, is a profusion of palm-prints on the entrance chamber walls, such as Casteret describes from his Pyrennean discoveries.
At an elevation of 600 feet or so on the southern slope of the ridge and below two picturesque waterfalls lies the village of Diyainna. Close by is the Diyainna cave, which also bears indications of habitation by the Udupiyan variation of Homo Sapiens Balangodensis. Farther west, along a track that continues from Budugala along the bottom of the ridge, lies the village of Handagiriya, on the banks of the Katupal oya. In close proximity is the site known as Bellan Bendi Pelessa, one of the richest palaeontological sites discovered in this country. It lies about eight miles from Budugala. There is no cave here, but the plain is littered with rocks and excavations. It was the site of an open-air pre-historic habitation, and excavations in 1957 yielded eight skeletons of Homo Sapiens Balangodensis. (Handagiriya may also be reached by a three-mile jeep track from Welligepola, which is connected with Balangoda by a good road).
And finally, Wavulpane, a magnificent cavern lying isolated (as far as is known) on the eastern slope of the Rakwana range, northwest of Embilipitiya. Wavul pane has been appropriately named; it means Cave of Bats, after the thousands of these creatures that inhabit it. It is a veritable museum of natural sculpture and contains large numbers of Stalagmites and stalactites that give its inner regions an out-of-this-world appearance. The age of the cavern is estimated at approximately 500 million years. The cavern is in a limestone formation, on the right bank of the Halwinne dola which is a tributary of the Andolu ganga. Wavulpane lies to the north-west of the trigonometrical station of the same name and between the villages of Wavulpane and Werawatta.
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There are three alternative approaches to this stupendous creation of Nature:
(l) Take the Ratnapura-Pelmadulla-Embilipitiya-Nonagama road. Turn off on a gravel track just past the village of Colombageara, to the right of the main road near the 25th milepost. The track leads to the village of Miriswel pota, and beyond to the Andolu ganga. Keep trekking along the right bank of the river. The path carries on to the village of Katukumbura, past the confluence of a little stream, the Halwinne dola, with the Andolu ganga. The path crosses the stream twice. The cave lies to the left of, and a few hundred yards beyond, the point where the path emerges to the left of the stream. This route is just about five miles on foot.
(2) Pallebedda-Halwinne route–Turn of near the 8th millepost on the Pelmadulla-Embilipitiya road just beyond the Pallebedde police station. Proceed through the villages of Halwinne and Welenawatta. The cave lies a little more than a mile beyond. The distance from the main road is about five miles; this route involves a tedious climb to an elevation of about a thousand feet.
(3) Palamcotta route-Near the commencement of the hairpin bends at the Bulutota Pass turn off left into the road that leads to the Palamcotta and El Chico estates. The road ends at El Chico and is succeeded by a track and path that wind through the hills at elevations of between a thousand and two thousand feet. The footpath eventually reaches the village of Halwinne, from where the route is as stated in (2)-turn right at Halwinne and proceed south. A good section of this route is jeepable, but a three-mile walk cannot be avoided.
A fourth route that may be recommended is that from Kolonne on the Embilipitiya-Panamure-Suriyakande-Rakwana road, along a footpath via the villages of Kitalabokka and Dambermada. The cave is about four miles from Kolonne along this route.
The easiest way to get to Wavul pane is to approach it via the Colombage-ara route and return via the Halwinne-Pallebedde route. None of these routes should be tried during the rainy season.
The inside of the cave presents a veritable cathedral carved out by Nature. Suspended from the high-domed roof of the cavern is an enormous stalactic formation that resembles a chandelier. The drip-drip-dripping of mineral-rich water through crevices in the cavern for millions of years has resulted in the creation of fantastic limestone tapestries strewn about in sweet disorder. Pillars and columns of precipitated calcareous substances are everywhere while high up, at the left of the cave, balconies carved out of the stone
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disappear into the earth. The cave also contains an unusual geological phenomenon-that of trans-basin diversion. This consists of a stream that flows on the hillside by the cave diving through a hole in the hillside-and the hole is in the roof of the cave. The result is a subterranean waterfall as well as a lake in the cavern.
Foothills and Plains : Most of the caves in these areas offer little of interest to the explorer, being for the most part little more than more or less anciently inhabited natural shelters. There are, however, at least a few worthy of notice.
About 5 miles west of Wellawaya, on the road to Koslanda and Beragala, is the village of Gampaha. To the south of this village, situated in an elevated area that rises out of the plain, is a cave known as Wavul Galge. As its name indicates, it is inhabited by more than a few bats.
The cave was, at one time, so rich in deposits of guano (natural nitrate), that the British stationed a regiment of troops there during the Uva rebellion, to prevent the rebels from collecting nitrate for the production of explosives. The cave lies about five miles from Gampaha, in a south-westerly direction. Directions should be sought from people in the village, since the area is still a wilderness.
Much farther south lies the pre-historic cave known as Alugalge, off Telulla on the Wirawila-Wellawaya road. More a rock shelter than a cave, this structure lies at an elevation of about 700 feet in deep forest about seven miles west of the road. The cave is accessible only on foot along the bank of the Dambakota ara, a tributary of the Kirindi oya.
The cave is about fifteen yards wide at the entrance and about ten yards long. At the left of the cave (at its western end) water drips continuously down the rock. There is evidence to indicate that this drip has continued uninterrupted for many thousand years.
Excavation of the floor of the cave yielded parts of a human skeleton as well as crude stone and bone implements. These remains have been assigned to the race of people who occupied the caves at Ravana Ella and at Kuruwita. Among the stone "finds' were several un pitted pebbles, characteristic of the Ravan tribe.
Of this cave Dr. P. E. P. Deraniyagala says: "It is probable that a human race in a lithic culture phase flourished... The rock shelter is part of an outlier that rises about 200 feet above the surrounding land, and the rock itself is weathered in various places to form deep pockets of decomposition that retain water far into the dry season. The nearest stream which is
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about a mile away is strongly affected by droughts and reduced to a chain of pools, and at such times both the cavities in the rock as well as the pools are visited by numerous wild animals. This is probably the main reason that induced this Stone Age race to inhabit the shelter from where they could hunt at leisure and even today it is a popular resort of poachers owing to its seclusion and this abundance of game.'
The drip of water at the western end of the rock is rich in calcium. Deposition of this substance over centuries had formed encrustations upon a part of the human skeleton and on the animal bones which were excavated here.
in the Ratnapura District is a little village named Kekule, unmarked except on the one-inch maps. It lies in the Karawita area, south of Hangomuwa (at the end of the minor road from Kotamulla on the Ratnapura-Palawela road). On the mountain side above the village, at an elevation of approximately 600 feet, is a cave (or rock shelter) named Kabara Galge. Access to the site is achieved by ascending the dried bed of a stream, which contains no water except during heavy rains.
The cave, which extends inwards for fifty feet, has a 26-foot wide entrance. The cave floor is 9 feet wide while the roof is thirty feet from floor level. There is a perennial stream a mile away, possibly the source of a permanent drip from the rock above the cave.
Surface exploration of the cave floor yielded pitted pebbles, characteristic of the Udupiyan tribe of Homo Sapiens Balangodensis. Other Stone Age "finds' included anvils grindstones, snail shells, animal bones, stone implements and flakes and some bone artefacts. The site is seven to eight miles from Ratnapura.
Far north are caves of quite a different sort. in the Jaffna Peninsula-one vast shelf of limestone-has a subterranean structure like a sponge. But, strangely enough, although it abounds in curiosities such as the Tidal Well near Puttur and the Sink Hole near Manipay, few caverns are actually known. A new one-complete with underground lakelet--was revealed a few years ago by a subsidence at Keerimalai, near the Cement Factory; but the best known by far are the caverns locally called Sinna and Periya Mandapam, not far from Kankesanturai. The two caverns-the Little and the Great shelters, as their names translate-are well over quarter of a mile apart, but untill recently it was possible to pass by subterranean passages all the way from one to the other.
The entrance to Sinna Nandapam lies in private property and entry is discouraged; but the entrance to Periya Mandapam
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is still public, consisting of a shallow pot-hole in a prominent ridge of rock near the village of Kerudavis (access to which is a ml. minor road turning inland of the Kankesanturai-Point Pedro main road by a temple near milepost 5).
Cave Dwellings : These are scattered throughout Sri Lanka: there are many a bare half-hour's drive from Colombo. One of the nearest (12 miles) is at Koratota, a rock temple still in use two miles from Kaduwela. A series of such caves extends-to mention only those on or near main roads-as far as the famous Attanagalla vihara. There are caves worth visiting at Asgiriya, Uruwela, and especially at Warana and Pilikuttuwa near Gampaha.
There is also an interesting cave, with a fine view from its opening, within a few hundred yards of the Avissawela Resthouse: the so-called Sita Galge. Walk down the railway line towards Ratnapura, and the cave is on a hitlock to your right.
But the richest areas for caves of this sort are the NorthWestern and North-Central Provinces, with the Sabaragamuwa and Central Province borders not far distant second.
These caves include those at Paramakanda in the Puttalam District, Mihintale, Sasseruwa and Handagala in the Anuradhapura District, Buddhanagehela near Padaviya, also in the Anuradhapura District, the Ritigala caves north of the Habarana-Anuradhapura road, the Galgiriyawa caves near Galgamuwa in the Kurunegala District and the caves at Dambulla, Sigiriya and Piduragala in the Matale DistriCt.
The Buddhanagehela caves consist of a complex offive caverns,on an outcrop of rock a little over five miles north of the embankment of the Padaviya tank. One of the caves contains the statue of the sedent Buddha, protected by a seven-hooded cobra. Another cave in the group contains Hindu religious statuary. Some interesting inscriptions were discovered here, on a pillar nine inches square by six feet four inches in height.
Near the ancient shrine at Aukana, 2 miles from the bund of the Kalawewa tank, lie a group of caves bearing inscriptions, as well as a slab of rock similarly inscribed. The inscriptions indicate that the statue and the ancillary antiquities date to the First Century AD.
Not far away lies the range of hills known as Sasserukanda, at an average elevation of 400 feet. The main hill in the range, Mahakanda, rises a further 746 feet to a height of 1,46 feet. Among the
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ancient remains at Sasseruwa are those of temples, cave dwellings courtyards, guardstones and moonstones. In the caves as well as on the surrounding rock are numerous inscriptions.
Rising 2,513 feet out of the north-central plain, sheer and abrupt on almost all sides, is the Ritigala range, now a Sanctuary and protected area. It is the highest group north of the main mountain mass. The range is clearly visible at a short distance from the Habarana-Maradankadawela-Anuradhapura road, just past the little village of Palugaswewa. The turn-off to the rock and cave complex is about five miles beyond Palugaswewa, to the nearby village of Galapitagala and thence about seven miles on foot. The walk to the peak takes about four hours. As long ago as 1893 H. C. P. Bell, a former Archaeological Commissioner, discovered more than 32 caves in the range as well as several stone inscriptions.
Its mild climate, akin to that of Kandy, inspired British officials at Anuradhapura to use it as a health resort. They built, on the flat ledge of the ridge at an elevation of 2,000 feet, a sanatorium which commanded "a fine view of the country'. That was in 1890. Little trace remains of the bungalow.
Most of the caves lie beneath boulders with drip-ledges. They all show evidence of having been lived in. The principal monastic ruins lie on the northern slope, which is the only practicable approach. Of these structures, only a few slabs of stone remain. Between two of the many caves (one of them is called Na-maluwa) a forest of ironwood trees (Na-gas) spreads out on the mountainside. The trees are believed to be quite old.
The monastic remains on Ritigala are believed to be those associated with the Sanka Vihare (built about BC 77) and the Arittha Vihare (BC50). One of the most striking features of the ruin is the paved and colonnaded meditation path, evidenced by the scores of stone pillars, excquisitely hewn steps, stone balustrades and stone foundations scattered about the hillside.
The summit of the range consists of a plateau covering an area of about twenty acres. From this plain in the sky, often clouded in mist, a magnificent view, is obtained of the jungle all around, of the several tanks that fleck the plains and of the dagabas of Anuradhapura.
in the Galgiriyawa range of hills which extends from the 12th mile on the Galgamuwa-Nikawewa road for ten miles to the north are the Galgiriyawa caves, consisting of six or seven separate groups of caves.
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The caves at Piduragala are associated with the brief history of Sigiriya. The Piduragala rock is situated about a mile north of Sigiriya. Archaeological evidence indicates that they had been used by Buddhist anchorites in pre-Christian times. Close to the summit of the rock is a large cave in which reposed a colossal image of the recumbent Buddha, made of brick and stucco. One of the caves now serves as a vihara. Under its drip ledge is a record in Brahmi script.
Mutugala (or Mutugalla) today is a little village at the intersection of two minor roads in the jungle about six miles north of Manampitiya, where the main road and the railway cross the Mahaveli river. The village lies close to the right bank of the river, at the edge of the Mutugalla villu. Apart from the jungle, all that may be seen there today are the ruins of an ancient cave monastery and inscriptions dating from the Second Century BC to the Seventh Century AD (approximately the same period covered by the inscriptions at Tiriyai). Mutugala may be reached after a four-mile journey on a dry-weather road that takes off to the left of the Batticaloa road past the 58th milepost. A jeep track (about six miles) from Manampitiya joins this road at Mutugala."
In the desolation of Bintenne lie four groups of rock caves, those known as Hamangala and Mellagala, Maharaksahela and Muttagala. To get to the first two, proceed to Kohombana from Uhana (about four miles), then two miles north-west along a cart track. Leave the track, turn left and walk over the plain. The caves are situated in rocky outcrops which stand about 300 and 200 feet, respectively, out of the plain. To get to the Maharaksahela rock cave use the same route, but walk on a further 2 miles or so in a westerly direction around the base of the hills. The Muttagala cave lies a further 2 miles away in the same direction.
To the north-west of these caves lies, in forbidding country, the Henanegala cave. The approach is via a gravel road that takes off to the left of the Maha Oya-Batticaloa road, at Maha Oya. The road proceeds for about 2 miles beyond the seven hot springs collectively known as Unuwaturabubula and then narrows down to a footpath. Leave the track at this point and strike out west for about three miles. The cave lies between two streams, at the base of an outcrop of rock.
South of Maha Oya, also in jungle, lie the remains of a citadel, Nuwaragala. The route is from Maha Oya, on the Badulla-KandyBatticaloa road, south-east for 6 miles to the veddah village of Pollebadda along a motorable road. The buried city on the rock is reached after a five-mile walk on a path that takes off to the left of the road at Pollebedda crossing the Rambukkan oya. A rock cave
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To the east, outside the fortifications, are the remains of a Buddhist fane. One of the structures here, which has preserved most of its components, is said to be the Temple of the Tooth. For the most part built of well-fashioned granite, it is constructed in the (Pandyan) South Indian style of architecture. The door frames, are sculptured.
At Pinwewa, about 2 miles away from the remains of the Yapahuwa city, an ancient burial site was found. It is locally known as Gal Sohona Kanatta, graveyard of stone monuments.
Over 40 cists, chambered tombs with stone slabs to shore up the sides and similar slabs to serve as lids, were found here.
Nainativuls. CB-Colombö 270 miles, Jaffna 2 miles.
There is a single bus on the island, plying a mls. run () between the jetty and the circuit bungalow. The latter is a pleasant little place, with one good, and one not-so-good, bedroom. But food is not officially available, or even cooked in it (though private arrangement with the caretaker for rice or stringhoppers and simple accompaniments can be made).
Just beyond the jetty is an important Hindu temple to the "fisheyed' goddess Meenakshi, consort of Siva, where is preserved a stone inscribed by Parakramabahu I, relating to the disposal of wrecks and the succour of survivors. The original temple was destroyed by the Portuguese and rebuilt-the story is depicted in remarkable panels of woodcarving on the temple's present festal chariot-and the annual festival and fair (in the season JulyAugust) is again one of the most important in the Hindu calendar. Even at ferial seasons a puja here-especially the nightly one around eight-is worth attending.
Equally famous, in the Buddhist world, is the Buddhist temple (one of the solosmasthana) a little more than ml. down the bus road; but there is nothing of archaeological interest that survives. Near the circuit bungalow is an interesting fishing village; but privacy in the dwellings is prized and should not be violated. lf, however, one can make friends with the men of the village a fascinating-but tough-skin-diving excursion may be arranged with them to accompany chank divers at work in the Delft Channel off the southern end of Nainativu. Otherwise, sea bathing off the island, alas, is poor.
Nalanda RH-Colombo 02 mls., Kandy 30 mls., Matale 14 mls. −
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A pleasantly-situated rest-house with several objects of interest within easy reach: gedige i ml.; Nalanda reservoir 4 mls.; ancient Roman Catholic enclave and shrine of St. Anthony at Wahacotte via reservoir, partly on minor road, 10 mls.; Hangamu Vihara-amongst the ruins here is the only known contemporaneous copy (there are said to have been two) of the historic nonaggression pact between Gajabahu II and Parakramabahu -via reservoir, southwards to Pallepola, westwards to Melsiripura, southwards to near MP 70 on Kurunegala-Dambulla road, southeastwards to Hangamuwa, 25 mls.; Dambulla Vihara 5 mls; Gem pits at Elahera.
Padaviya CB-Colombo 77 mls.
Comfortable, picturesquely sited. Much of archaeological interest in the region; minor road to Kokkilai Sanctuary (7 mls.) Pulmoddai (+5 mls.) and vatadage at Tiriyai (+7 mis.).
Peradeniya CB-Colombo 70 miles, Kandy 4 mils. el 1,575 ft.
Comfortable. Beautifully situated on river bank within famed Botanical Gardens. Convenient also for "Eastern Shrines' off Kandy, and for University Campus. Katarangala Vihara, with its unique golden Buddha within a gem-bestudded makara thorana lies within walking distance (2 mls.) across pedestrian suspension bridge.
Pooneryn (Punakari) CB-Colombo 191 mls., Jafna 15 mls. via Karaitivu (vehicular) Ferry-often out of order-53 mls.
The Circuit Bungalow is close to the old Dutch fort. To add to the romance, the Fort is haunted: by someone who gallops to the gate with the jingle of harness and the thunder of hoofs over the vanished drawbridge . . . . but is never seen.
Ragala CB-Colombo i 19 mls., Nuwara Eliya 13 mls. el. 5,000 ft.
Pleasant up-country climate, in high tea country. Plentiful trout fishing. Splendid panorama from Dixon's Corner (2 mls.) near MP 6 on Uda-Pussellawa road. Unexcelled centre for mountain hikes and rambles: especially recommended, that through Kandapola-Sita Eliya Forest reserve, via St. Leonard's Estate and villages of Uduhawara and Perawella to Hakgala (Gardens) passing close to Ravanaella and Perawella Falls (15 mls.) and probably calling for a camp or bivouac en route; and that longer but much easier (18 mls., but by road or bridle track all the way) passing old British station of Fort MacDonald and within reach
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leads to the river crossing at Bedigantota. From here a footpath leads to Mahapelessa where there are hot springs.
At Mahapelessa the path divides: north to Pillamagala and south-east to Karambagala. The same track, via the hamlet of Habaraduwa, may also be used to visit both cave sites.
North of Mahapelessa and Embilipitiya, and approachable via tracks and footpaths from Welligepola (of Balangoda) and from the Pelmadulla-Embilipitiya road are the Handagiriya ruins and caves, situated in a remote area near the northern rim of the Uda Walawe reservoir. Either route demands a very long walk.
The Welligepola route is via the hamlets of Yatipasgamuwa and Palugahawala. There is a motorable road (and a bus service) from Balangoda to Welligepola, from where the road extends for a short distance. From there it is a long walk of about fourteen miles.
A number of rock sites or caves with ancient historical connections are located in the western region of the Island, chiefly in the districts of Kegalla and Kurunegala. The Kalukoladeniya cave is situated close to Akiriyagala, near legalla. Unlike most caves in this part of the country, it has no association with Buddhist history. It is of interest because, not very long ago, exploration of its floor yielded a stone celt of fine-grained crystalline rock. The celt is believed to belong to a late Stone Age industry.
Also in the Kegalla District are Pilimalena, near Kitulgala, Lenagala, near Warakapola, and Alulena, Yatahalena and Helapitalena, all near Kegalla.
In the Kurunegala District, bordering the districts of Kandy and
Matale, are the Yanlena and Bagavalena caves, near Galagedera, and the Niso-lena and Kumburulena caves, not far from Melsiripura.
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CHAPTER 6
Field and stream
THE sports-minded tourist will find little difficulty in indulging in his favourite recreation-or just watching it if he is so inclined.
Golf is very popular among tourists as they find it easier to get a game in Sri Lanka than anywhere else in the world. A tourist can hire clubs and book a game at short notice, without being on the waiting list as in other countries.
There are two 8-hole courses, the Royal Colombo Golf Club, a fifteen-minute drive from the heart of the City, and the Nuwara Eliya Golf Club, 6,190 feet above sea level, and five hours from Colombo by car.
It is a picturesque course in the heart of Nuwara Eliya town, with the greens shrouded in mist, and some of them on the edge of thick jungle where leopards once roamed.
A round of golf in Nuwara Eliya is the ambition of all golfing enthusiasts. It has been recognised as one of the best 8-hole courses in the world, with fir trees lining the fairways, and a gurgling trout stream running through it.
it is also the only course in the world where 5 of the 18 holes can be followed by car. The other three holes are carved from a mountain and is known as "Switzerland' an apt description as a cold wind blows down the valley, an exhilarating experience for any golfer.
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A quaint narrow-gauge railway cuts through the Royal Colombo Golf Club course, an added attraction to the putter on the plush greens.
It is a course where the unexpected could always happen, like a crow snatching the white ball. This could well be the reason for the motto of the Club "As a crow flies" with the figurehead of a Crow with a golf ball in his beak.
Visitor's are allowed special concessions at both clubs.
Rowing enthusiasts can use the concessions offered wisitors by the Colombo Rowing Club and the Rowing Club in Kandy.
There are three yachting and sailing clubs in Colombo and the Outstations. Facilities for the sport are available in and outside the Colombo Harbour, the Bolgoda Lake, Dikoya, Ni kaweratiya tank and Trincomaloc harbour,
Rugby football, cricket, soccer, hockey, tennis, volleyball and other popular sports are all played here,
SNIPE AND DUCK-SHOOTING: One of the great delights the Island has to offer the sportsman during the latter months of the year and in the early part of the new year is snipe and duckshooting in most parts of the country, except the central hills.
There are five varieties of snipe and ten of duck to be found in the lagoons and paddy fields during the months November to April. Most of these are winter migrants from the northern hemisphere.
The common Pintail snipe (Capella stenura), the variety most frequently shot here is Surely one of the greatest long-distance travellers of the awan World. Breceding in the northern-most regions of Siberia, close to the Arctic Circle, this tiny bundle of winged energy 獸 even than the common Ash Dove), every year performs a fantastic feat of flying endurance. This bird, winging its way across the vast Siberian stretches, over the towering high Himalayas, traverses the Indian sub-continent and then, in a final spurt, makes a bee-line to this island. A marathon measuring thousands of miles-by a flier weighing only about four ounces
A famous snipe-shooter of the Island, writing as " Gallinago", hails the advent of this Siberian migrant in these words, guaranteed to warm the Cockles and itch the trigger-finger of any true-blue gun 5|Tman :
"Oh, this is the First of November, (when the season
opens)
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A day that snipe-shooters remember: We've been cleaning our guns since September, And awaiting the dawn of this day.'
The best time to go snipe-shooting is early in the morning
"While lie-abed fellows are yawning, We'll be out with the gun in the morning, We'll be up with the sun when it's dawning, We will tramp on unti ring feet. And, soon at our fecit he’ll be springing, On his zig-zagging way he'll be winging And on him our guns we'll be swinging As he flashes away with his cry. Our "rights' and our 'lefts' we'll be banging . . . .
Whereas snipe abound in paddy fields ready for the harvestand therefore dry underfoot-duck, being water birds, gather in marshes, lagoons, tanks and lewdyas,
The best places to bag duck are lagoons like Kalametiya in the south; the salt flats of Puttalam, Palawi, Mundel and Mannar in the North-Western Province; Sarasala i in the Jaffna Paninsula and Arugam Bay, Panārā ānd Helava in the South-cast.
To take duck on the wing, the best times are early in the morning and late in the evening, when they are either flying to or returning from their feeding grounds.
The flight patterns of the many duck species vary greatly. The Whistling Teal (Dendrocygna javanica) for instance, are not too hard to hit in flight, as they keep circling round the tank or lagoon, uttering their mellow whistling call.
A much more difficult duck to take on the wing is the Cotton Teal, also referred to as the Quacky Duck. A smaller bird than the Whistler, it is very fast in flight.
FISHING
The Rivers: Fish are found in most of the Island's rivers except where pollution and dynamiting have wiped them out. Rivers that flow into the sea on the west coast are usually clear in March, April, August and early September; on the east Coast nearly all year round, Normally rivers in spate are not productive when using artificial bait and lures. Tackle should be light spinning rods and reels or light bait-casting outfits. Line is usually 3 to 10 pounds
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breaking strain monofilament. Lures from /16 to 12 ounce in weight. Spoons, wobblers, small plugs, all will get you your fish. The best times for fishing are early morning and late evening.
Anglers fishing in water above 1,000 feet usually expect to catch Mahseer (Tor Khudree Longispinis) a splendid fighter but alas all too rare. Average fish run to about 3 pounds. Mahseer can grow to 25 pounds and more and a fish of this size taken on light tackle is guaranteed to be an experience worth remembering. The Mahaveli at Lewella and Katugastota are favourite fishing spots. The Olive barb (Puntus Sarana) a lively silver fish takes small spoons readily and fights well. Fish average a pound and a catch of 0 to 15 in a morning is not unusual, if you have chosen your spot carefully. However, as it is full of bones it should be returned to the river to provide another day's sport. The giant snake head (Opiocephalus marulius ara) organ ara lurks under overhanging river banks or clumps of bamboo. A dogged fighter and delicious curried. The striped snake head (Op. : Striatus) or the loola is a smaller version of the giant and is just as tasty. The fresh water shark (Wallagu Attu) or walaya which can grow up to 5 feet makes up in sheer bulk and greediness for what it lacks in fighting spirit. There is a dammed section of a river near Galgamuwa which is the walaya fisherman's paradise.
The Estuaries : The mouths of rivers and lagoons around the Island are the happy fishing grounds of the estuary angler. A sport that can be indulged in through the year except for June and July on the west coast and a few days in November and December on the east coast during the height of the South-west and Northeast monsoons. Estuaries remote from fishing villages usually yield the best results. Some estuaries on the east coast are so famous that keen anglers travel long distances by jeep and on foot just to be there in the evening or early morning when the schools of mullet move out to sea or into the lagoon or river and are attacked by predacious fish.
In general, an estuary fisherman can hope to catch almost any fish found in local waters. (An angler once hooked a sailfish casting from the shore on the east coast) However, the angler seeks the Queenfish (Chorinemus Sp:) or the barracuda, the giant sea pike. Many species of caranx and in particular the attanagulla, a splendid fighter known to strip a reel of line and snap a steel trace. Some anglers specialize in enticing the estuary perch (Lates calcarifer) which can grow to about 5 feet and 80 pounds. The kalawa or Four Thread Tassel fish is a splendid silver fish and reaches six feet and over 60 pounds.
Fishing with light line and dead bait a fisherman can land fish averaging a pound of species too numerous to mention. Tackle
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is usually a bait-casting outfit-medium action casting rod and star drag reel with 200 yards of 12 to 18 lbs. breaking strain monofilament. Medium spoons, two piece plugs, mirrorlures, wobblers, feather jigs and live bait (Mullet or prawn) all at the proper time and place will produce strikes. Spinning reels and rods can also be used if rocks or under-water obstructions are absent. Favoured spots are the ferries north and south of Trincomalee. The estuary of the Kelani river, the mouth of the Maha oya north of Negombo when conditions are right, and the estuary and reef at Negombo. The best bet is to contact local anglers and join them on fishing trips.
The Sea: It is unfortunate that deep sea angling is usually excellent just before the onset of the South West Monsoon on the west coast. The sea during this period is usually choppy and unexpected squalls can blow up in a matter of minutes. In other respects April and May are excellent for big fish. On the east coast June is considered one of the best months with the season running from March to October. Fishing is usually done from mechanised boats that can be hired from professional fishermen. These boats are slow and rather unsuitable for the type of angling sportsmen desire. However, many large fish have been taken from such boats by amateur anglers. The Sea Anglers Club at Trincomalee provides all facilities for deep-sea angling. Their boats are available on hire.
Offshore fishing from boats and light trolling can be done with the tackle used for estuary fishing. If you seek larger game fish such as the Broad-billed Swordfish, the Indian Sailfish, the Striped Marlin, Yellow Fin Tuna, Yahoo or one of the many species of shark, heavier tackle will be necessary. A good boat rod and deep sea trolling reel, Penn or Ocean City, with about 440 yards of 2 lb. or over B.S. line will be sufficient. Lures will be from 2 to 9 ounces in weight. Game fish as mentioned above are usually caught by trolling either a large dead mullet, hurulla or katuwalla.
Sharks are sometimes caught by drift fishing after 'chumming' with ground fish offal. Large spoons, spinners, feather jigs, whale bone jigs and two-piece plugs are also productive.
Much fun can also be had on rocks and reefs far out at sea. The boat is anchored over or near the rocks and quantities of crushed prawn or other ground bait used to attract rock fish to the spot. The bait usually used is live prawn. A variety of groupers, snappers, wrasso and other rock fish can be caught by this method.
Spear-Fishing : We in our little island are fortunate in being surrounded by sea with good diving spots within easy reach, clear, warm water and a multitude of fish. Our waters are not over-fished as nature imposes its own "closed season' in the two monsoons
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which cause rough seas and turbid water with reduced visibility. The spear-fishing season on the west coast is from November to April and on the east from February to September with March being the best month on both.
Equipment varies, depending on the whims of the individual, but normally a mask, flippers, snorkel and cotton gloves are used. Cotton gloves because water softened hands get cut, bruised and easily infected. As the water is always warm, no wet suit is needed. though an old long sleeved sweater will protect' the body from abrasions and sun burn. Some spear-fishermen carry long fearsome knives which are more useful for cutting young coconuts and opening bottles of beer. Guns are mainly compressed air of Spanish make, though spring, rubber propelled and hydraulic are also used. Spearfishermen usually carry their catch in an old inner-tube or trail them behind on long stringers. A reel is essential as fish of considerable size are found in our waters and need to be followed and subdued. Heavy-braided nylon or steel wire, thirty feet in length is sufficient. if you have the "bread", depth gauges, daggers, or what have you, can be carried for cosmetic effect.
Assuming you are fully equipped, where can you go diving? Good spots are plentiful all down the west coast. Negombo, Ratmalana, Bentota, Panadura, Akurala, Beruwela, Galle, Welligama, Tangalla and Mirissa, all have offshore reefs and isolated outcrops of rock where pelagic fish gather to feed and shooting can be brisk if conditions are right. Trincomalee on the east coast is a spearfisherman's paradise with its coral reefs running from the shore and sloping to the depths of the sea. Its vastledges of rock dropping sheer into the blue water and its rocky coves and bays offer sport in plenty. A lifetime is insufficient to explore all of Trincomalee's under-water features. . This still leaves the ferries north and South and all the reefs from there to Jaffna in the north. Batticaloa, Arugam Bay and down to the sanctuaries in the south.
Spear-fishermen usually hunt for several species of Caranx: ignobilis, Stellatus, Melampygus, Indica or Carangus. ignobilis up to 50 pounds have been seen and shooting one of these is like tanging with Cassius Clay. Seer, both Commersoni and Guttatum have occasionally been taken out at sea. Queenfish (Chorinemus Tol and Lysan) are plentiful in February and March. A record catch of 27 in a day has been reported of Wellawatte. Large shoals of yellow fin barracuda roam the deeper side of the reefs. An occasional great barracuda, six feet in length, may flash past making your heart skip several beats. The taking of Estuary perch (Lates Calcarifor) is a specialised line which has its devotees at nearly every estuary in the island. If you seek "a record fish there are plenty of Giant Groupers (Promicrops Lanceolatus), Estuarine groupers
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and Black groupers nearly all of immense girth and satisfying weight. A bewildering array of rock cod, snapper, milk fish, bonito, rays, mullet and sharks of several kinds can all be found at one time or another in our waters.
Spear-fishing is always regarded as a dangerous sport but strict adherence to simple rules of safety make it no more dangerous than any other sport. Never spear-fish alone. Never plunge into strange waters without consulting a local spear-fisherman. Don't touch things you cannot identify and avoid sea urchins. Remember that there is no recorded instance of a spear-fisherman being attacked by a shark in Lanka. So get out your gear-good hunting
TROUT-FISHING: The island offers some interesting troutfishing in its mountain streams at elevations of 4,000 feet and over. Trout were first introduced in 1882. At first, experiments were carried out with English Brown Trout, but it was found later that the Rainbow could be more successfully acclimatized.
The trout-fishing afforded by the fast clear streams rushing through picturesque up-country jungles and tea plantations was really excellent up to a few years ago. Some fish of 3 to 5 pounds were regularly caught and the average weight in most streams was over a pound. The Ceylon Fishing Club which controls the fishing, regularly stocked the waters and appointed watchers to protect the streams. The Club possesses its own hatchery in Nuwara Eliya, and a visit to the breeding ponds will be of interest.
There is now no closed season and fishing is permitted throughout the year. In fact, as streams get out of condition in heavy rains the fishing is limited to about 300 days a year. Licences are issued by the Honorary Secretary, Ceylon Fishing Club whose address isThe Hill Club, Nuwara Eliya. There are limits imposed on the size and number of fish permitted to be taken. Most stretches can only be fished with fly, but the lower waters are open to spinning. The best chances of sport at present are afforded by the Horton Plains stream, the Gorge Valley stream and the Diyagama river. All these are within one to two hours by car from Nuwara Eliya.
An eight to nine-foot fly rod, a tapered line and casts of lx to 3x are recommended. Rivers are full of snags and lighter casts are not usually used. Not many flies are needed. The fishing is generally wet fly as the Rainbow is not a free riser and there is plenty of under-water feed. Coch-y-Bondhu, Dyson, Alexandra, Alder and Mach Brown would do. For the evening use a Coachman, White Moth or Parmachene Belle. Tackle, but not flies, can be
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hired from the Club. No special clothing is required, and wading is not recommended.
WILD BOAR HUNTING: in Sri Lanka, wild pig, better known as wild boar, abound. There are various methods of huntirig wild boar.
In some areas, such as the North Central and Eastern Provinces during periods of drought, hides are dug close to the edge of a small tank. The hunter then waits for the pig to come for water. Another way of shooting pig is to wait at night in a chena hut or among ripening paddy. The pigs usually forage in herds and in the stillness of the night, the hunter can hear the animals feeding at a distance of about thirty to forty yards. He then crawls up and takes a shot. Flashing a torch drives wild pig away, so that shooting has to be done either in the dark or simultaneously as the flashlight is beamed on the animal.
If you decide to spend a couple of days at Badella, move through the good shooting areas of Passara, Bibile, Wellawaya and beyond to Pottuvil and Komari, possibly the best hunting ground of all.
Kantalai is another area where large herds of pig are constantly on the rampage among the Sugar cane. The Sugar Corporation offers rewards to those who shoot wild boar here and help save their crops. There is also Alut Oya on the borders of the Veddikachchi intermediate Zone which is a good base for a pig shoot.
Wild boar are now a grave threat to food production. You
and your loaded shot gun will be welcome in most parts of the remote agricultural areas.
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CHAPTER 7
Your camera: a sketch book
A CAMERA is a sketchbook you must carry with you on your travels around Sri Lanka. In it you will capture the breathtaking beauty of a tropical isle and its gentle people.
Wide panoramas-of blue seas, golden beaches and lush, green foliage, capped by cloud-flecked blue skies-backdrop the passing scene. Here, brown, Smiling, unsophisticated people move gracefully by, cuddling the prettiest of children, loving, working laughing, living. They are a warm people who, though held captive in framed celluloid, will yet carry the warmth of sunshine into your next cold winter's day.
The photographer's day starts inconveniently early in this lsland. The first rays, of a rising sun light up scene after scene of indiscribable beauty. This is true of almost any part of the Island and particularly so of Negombo where, in its many waterways, the bustle of fishermen scatter reflected Suns into a myriad specks of dancing light. In the far away hills, as elsewhere, the climbing sun paints with yellowed light and long green shadows a vivid ever changing CanWaS.
Certainly the best time of the day for photography, the morning
"sessions', taper off around nine when the hot sun, nearly too high overhead, kills the scene. Rest a weary shutter-finger till 4 o'clock
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in the afternoon when a setting sun lengthens shadows and again picks out yet more beauty for you. As the day draws to an end, the silhouettes of this beautiful island come alive against stupendous, orange-red sunsets, which are at their best towards the end of October and in November. The sun, a glorious red ball of fire, settling slowly into a blue-black sea paved by a crimson path leading to your feet, is a sight to behold along the west coast. Yet, this spectacle pales into insignificance when the sun sets over the cliffed horizon of the Minneriya tank or is photographed, as it nestles into the green jungles, from almost anywhere on the east coast.
This island is undoubtedly a photographer's paradise, offering everything from bright-eyed little children to majestic wild ellephants; from mute dagabas to the fire and thunder of the Kandy Perahera; from the parched, yet beautiful, sand dunes of Manalkattu to the green hills, mountain streams and waterfalls, some more than 700 feet high; from virgin beaches caressed by the vast Indian Ocean to terraced paddy fields high up in the hillsides; from pretty village lasses in clinging-wet sarongs, bathing in streams and lotuscovered tanks to the "mod miss 'perambulating in the green parks of the city of Colombo-all this within a day's journey apart, often very much less .
Clean, crystal clear air and bright sunshine add to the joys of a photographer-providing conditions almost too ideal. A word of restraint though-the bright, near overhead tropical Sun, paints pictures with light that is contrasty, too contrasty for most films to handle. If you must "shoot' between 9 a.m. and 4 p.m. use fast monochrome film and have it processed in a "soft' developer, or use as a last resort, the unwieldy fill-in-flash to subdue the harsh contrast. These are the only ways of avoiding "Soot and whitewash ' prints-the bane of all photographers in the tropics. When photographing in colour wait for a swift cloud to dull the starkness of over-brilliant light your film just cannot handle. The best colour results are generally had on a slightly overcast day.
Probably the most rewarding and certainly thrilling experience for most photographers is to leave "civilisation' and city streets behind and step into the jungles. Here, one could spend hours, days, weeks or months "capturing ' the varied birds and beasts that our jungles are still, teeming with.
The laziest . . . easiest, way to reach the jungle is to visit the National Parks-sanctuaries where animals and birds are protected from marauding man. For the casual photographer a car is adequate, but for the more dedicated a four-wheel drive vehicle is helpful. The two major National Parks, Yala (Ruhuna) and Wilpattu-185 and 27 miles away from Colombo respectively-are laced with
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a network of roads that probe the jungles, seeking vantage points. A day spent in either of these parks will fill your "sketchbook' with pictures of, at least, a few fine specimens of the Island's wildlife.
Let's talk of equipment first. Telephoto lenses are, of course, a must-but please don't leave your 'standard' lens behind. In Yala, elephants rush that close you may have to seek, frantically, in your camera bag for a "wide' In this island's jungles it is felt that the most suitable tele-lenses are the 200mm and the 400mm fitted to 35mm cameras. Of these the faster working 200mm lens is certainly the more useful. Ideally, these lenses should be fitted to separate camera bodies and the handy 200mm set-up used to "grab your first picture. If time and animal or bird permit, use the longer lens to get a larger image. Your 'grab" camera must always be at the ready. Always take exposure meter readings before you enter the jungle; one reading for the deep shade and one for open terrain. When you see your animal "shoot' first and think of technicalities later. Often these "grab" pictures are the best-all too often photographers get only an exposure meter reading of the animals they have seen vanish before befuddled eyes it must be remembered that smooth, silent speed is the essence of wild life photography.
In the National Parks you will be shooting most often from a vehicle. A position by a window is good : yet the back of an open Land Rover or Jeep is by far the best. A medium-weight tripod could easily be set up in the back and comes in most useful when using a 400mm or longer lens. it is absolutely necessary that the rest of the passengers remain perfectly still when shooting. If a tripod is not set up, use the sides of the vehicle to rest your elbows on. This together with a shutter speed of at least 1500 will give you good results. It is certainly a good idea to keep your shutter speed constant and to vary only your aperture. This gives you just that extra second of time to get your picture.
A major problem in the National Parks-which are in the dry zones-is dust. A lens cap, and well fitting at that, is absolutely essential. A small, dark-coloured towel, slightly damp-the sweat from your steaming brow would provide sufficient moisturespread out over your cameras is useful to keep of dust and keep the equipment cool. At the end of a day's shooting spend fifteen minutes, at least, cleaning your equipment.
Wild life photography, though good fun, means a lot of hard work. It is best that you wake up at least half an hour before "first light', hurriedly gulp a cup of tea and set off for areas that your ' tracker ' thinks best. From dawn till about 1 a.m. you will have to search, track and search again for your pictures. After
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eleven the animals move back into the thick jungle seeking shade from the scorching sun. Fed and rested, they come out again into the open around four in the afternoon, but this is a generalisation. Scme of the rarest photographs have been taken at high noon If you want good pictures work, hard for them, right through the day if necessary.
Drought-ridden August and early September are the best months for water-hole 'shooting'. Sites could be reserved by you at the Park Warden's office. The technique here is different and is based largely on patience. A "hide' will be built for you by the tracker. Behind it set up your tripods and cameras-cover anything that glistens-and wait and wait and wait. Often you are rewarded--as often you will be disappointed; yet it is an experience you must not miss.
Kumana is unequalled for bird photography. Here, in the branches of the stunted mangroves of a steaming swamp, from April to July, water birds abound. Pelicans and Painted Stork ; Ibis and Spoonbills; the Darter and the Cormorant all nest together -screaming, squabbling, feeding and fighting. They are the fullfilment of a bird-photographer's prayer. A fibreglass boat which could be hired, is the platform from which to shoot. Here, again, the fast-working 200mm lens and 35mm camera combination is unbeatable. Carry also a 105mm lens with which you could take ' portraits' of the little ones in their nests.
The Lahugala-Kitulana Sanctuary that you pass on your way to and from Kumana, provides wild life photography of a slightly larger sort () as it is the sanctuary of the mighty elephant. Here, during the drought congregate herds of elephants, building up gradually through the dry months of June, July and August. The herds climax in their numbers towards the end of September and the first two weeks of October, just before the north-east monsoon breaks. This is without doubt the best "location' to photograph elephants. The best time of the day is usually the afternoonfrom around 3 o'clock the elephants move into the tank and within hours the tally may well reach a century or even top it. Do not attempt to walk or even drive around this tank unless you know' your elephants or are accompanied by one who does. As to the lens you should use, well, it all depends on how intrepid you are A 250mm lens on a camera like the Hasselblad has been found adequate to cover a fairly big herd. Height is of tremendous advantage here and an ability to climb a tree an asset. (Do not leave your shoes or boots at the bottom of the tree. It could be dangerous, if the elephants scented them). Try to get up to a fork at east 30 feet off the ground and once up there work as silently as you possibly can.
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This is as good a place as any to warn you that wildlife photography is no "game'. It is a serious business and dangerous to the foolhardy. Remember just this one thing, you are a visitor in the animal's domain, courtesy and respect for them will beget consideration. Bad manners and disrespect could mean-death.
If you still wish to be away from it all, you have yet another world into which you can literally dive-the silent underwater world of the ocean that surrounds the Island. Here a heartbeat shatters its silence.
The sea around Sri Lanka is a year-round paradise for the underwater cameraman. From November to March the crystal clear waters of the west coast entice him into a world of coralled gardens and jewelled fish. And then, when the south-west monsoon begins to show its strength, the east coast beckons, offering miles and miles of seashore from which to reach out into the depths of a placid OC83. f).
The abundance of vivid pictures offered by the coral reefs, shipwrecks, submerged rocks and even the relics of an ancient temple are limitless : or rather, limited by your skill as a skin-diver and the equipment you carry.
The "Nikonos' and the "Calypso' have found favour with most amateur photographers. The professionals, however, prefer the larger format Hasselblad or the Rollei in their special underwater housings. For the greater depths the use of a flash-gun becomes necessary. Bear this in mind when you bring out your equipment. Bring along as well "fast' and "medium' speed films, both in monochrome and colour; your favourite film may not be available here. leave your "wet suit' behind; all you need here, in the warm waters around the Island, is the briefest of swimming togs but bring your own mask and flippers. The heavy scuba equipment can be hired here-leave it behind.
From November till March your adventure in photography could well start around the reefs close to the shores of the city of Colombo. Then journey Southwards, pausing at the truly fabulous coral gardens of Hikkaduwa and again at Galle. The reefs and submerged rocks of Habaraduwa, Polhena, Dondra and Tangalla, along the south coast, are also excellent for photography.
From March to September, underwater photographers spend every holiday they can on the eastern seaboard. Usually basing themselves at Trincomalee, they scan the area northwards as far as the red rocks of Nilaveli and southwards to the coral reefs of
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Komari, nearly 50 miles away. Each dive offers a variety of pictures.
In crystal clear waters, below Swami Rock, are the intricatelycarved rock pillars of an ancient Hindu temple, ravaged, it is said, by the Portuguese. South of Elephant Island, in Trincomalee harbour, is the wreck of a Portuguese galleon whose cannon ball and cannon still attract photographers. Six miles out to sea from Batticaloa is a far more recent wreck of a warship. In about 30 fathoms of water lies the wreck of the 'Hermes', an aircraft carrier sunk by the Japanese in World War II. Many shipwrecks ring the waters around the Island and are the happy hunting grounds of underwater photographers.
For the brave enthusiasts there is the reef of the Great Basses, six miles from Kirinda. It is nearly half a mile long and a quarter mile broad and is formed of hard red sandstone. The surging Indian Ocean allows just one month in the year in which to dive -April. At this time the current is weak and sets westward, usually parallel to the coast. Enthusiasts have one month in which to dive, discover and photograph the splendour of another world.
Pack your flippers away and then, more conventionally shod, leave behind the sea and move inland to seek, find and capture more of the beauty of this island paradise.
into your camera bag tuck the widest, wide-angle lens you can bring with you. Use it when you traverse the rolling tea-covered hills or the stark, yet beautiful, plains of the photogenic peninsula of Jaffna. It is only a true wide-angle lens that can encompass the panoramas that you will see here and elsewhere.
Sri Lanka is not only scenically beautiful but also in it live a race of gracious people, who do not object strongly to being photographed. The children even enjoy it and will pose willingly for you. This, of course, means adding a short tele-lens-a 35mm or 50mm-to your armoury. Use it often to portray the faces of men, women and children, of whose infinite variety, George Bernard Shaw remarked, "Ceylon is the cradle of the human race because everyone there looks an original.'
Most photographers gravitate sooner or later towards the Ruined Cities, but before their splendour is seriously photographed a brief study of the movement of the sun should be made. If this is not done you may well find yourself in Anuradhapura at a time of the year when the sunlight fails to skim past the faces of the
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bas-reliefed Isurumuniya lovers as the sun is too far to the north: or even find yourself in Sigiriya with the sun too far south and shrouding in deep shade the famous Lion's paws. The movement of the sun up the length of the Island and back is charted for you and gives the approximate dates when it is directly over the northern and southernmost points of the lsland and other important towns in between, twice during the year.
NORTH Sun moves
southward Pt. Palmyrah . . . W 6 Apr. and 28 Aug. Jafna 5 Apr. 29 Aug.
NMannar 3 Apr. 31 Aug.
Trincomalee - a !2 Apr. Sept.
Anuradhapura/Polonnaruwa/Sigiriya « «» R 1/10 Apr. 2/3 Sept. . Kandy/Negombo 9 Apr. 4 Sept. Colombo/Nuwara Eliya 8 Apr. 5 Sept.
Bentota 7 Apr. 7 Sept. Galle - 6 Apr. 8 Sept.
Dondra Head as a 5 Apr. and 9 Sept. V
SOUTH Sun moves northward
For really serious photography this chart should be used together with the very accurate one inch to a mile topo-maps of the Island. These maps will pinpoint the actual location and the direction in which your "subject' faces--giving you the time of the day and the month of the year when it could be best photographed. These low-priced maps can be conveniently purchased from the Surveyor-General's branch office in the heart of the Colombo Fort, where a courteous staff will help find the correct sheet and even spot the location for you.
The humidity of the Island is something that photographers should be particularly conscious of as it adversely affects films and lenses. Lenses should be kept in desiccators in which a pack of active desiccant is placed. Always make certain that your film is properly stored in a cool dry place; sealed in polythene bags, a corner of a refrigerator is as good a place as any to keep it in. Exposed film is soon ruined if not processed quickly, and this may create a problem for visiting photographers. Due to the lack of proper temperature-controlled processing here, it is advisable that all monochrome films be either taken back or airfreighted to "labs'
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you are familiar with. Ektachrome and Kodacolor are the only colour films processed here.
Photographers would be well advised to bring all their camera equipment along with them. This applies to films as well, except that you should bring much more than you think you will use : have no doubt about it, you will surely use all of it-this island is that beautiful.
No restrictions are placed by the Customs on a reasonable quantity of film and camera equipment brought in by a photographer visiting the Island. Your cameras and accessories should be carefully itemised in the declaration or 'D' form and endorsed by a Custom's official. Preserve this form carefully and produce it to the Customs on your departure. Do this and you will have no problems taking your expensive equipment back with you. Visiting professionals or teams of professionals with large quantities of equipment and film will be requested to furnish a bank guarantee. Television cameras and equipment, in addition to bank guarantees, will only be allowed into the lsland provided prior sanction has been obtained from the Ministry of Defence and Foreign Affairs.
Now, having thrown the book of rules at you, there is little left to do other than wish you, as one photographer to another, good "hunting and shooting" with your camera. Good luck-every photographer needs stacks of it!
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CHAPTER 8
Getting around
APART from the normal train services that link the major towns in the Island, the Sri Lanka Government Railway provides luxury travel for tourists in air-conditioned specials.
The Railways offer 22 package tours to places of tourist interest in Sri Lanka-the ruined cities of Anuradhapura, Sigiriya and Polonnaruwa, the colossal statue of the Buddha at Aukana, the Wilpattu and Yala Game Sanctuaries; Kandy, the hill capital; Nuwara Eliya, the mountain resort; tea estates and factories; Trincomalee, the famous east coast beaches, the coral gardens at Hikkaduwa, and Galle.
More information could be had from the Railway Tours Office, Fort Railway Station, Colombo,
BUSES
The Ceylon Transport Board provides a network of longdistance bus services covering the entire lsland.
Adequate bus transport facilities are also provided from Colombo and from the major provincial towns to places of religious and historical importance such as Anuradhapura, Kataragama and Kandy and to coastal towns and scenic holiday resorts like Bentota, Trincomalee and Nuwara Eliya.
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The Board's Tour section has a fleet of luxury coaches, as well as ordinary passenger buses that could be hired for group travel.
Arrangements for tours could be made with the Public Relations Officer of the Ceylon Transport Board, Kirula Road, Colombo 5.
HELITOURS
Tourism in Sri Lanka has been given a new dimension with the introduction of a helicopter service for tourists-Helitours.
Operated by experienced pilots of the Sri Lanka Air Force, the very comfortable four-seater Bell Jet Ranger helicopters will take you to any part of the island. A series of regular tours are offered.
You can see the ruins of a great civilisation at Anuradhapura, the 5th Century B.C. capital of Sri Lanka with its vast man-made lakes and shrines, temples, monasteries and parks; Polonnaruwa, the 12th Century A.D. capital, with its dominating features, the Sea of Parakrama and the three exquisitely-chiselled statues of the Buddha at the Gal Vihare; the 5th Century A.D rock fortress of Sigiriya with its world renowned frescoes; the picturesque hill capital of Kandy where lies the Temple of the Tooth, the palladium of Buddhism in Sri Lanka; the ever-green, tea-carpeted picture postcard hills of Lanka crowned by the 7,000 ft. high town of NuwaraEliya; Trincomalee on the east coast with its gorgeous beaches; and the wild life sanctuaries of Yala and Wilpattu. All these tours are offered in either day or two-day excursions.
Most of the country's attractions may be seen within two days, whereas, with road transport, it would take nearly a week. Helitours is tailor-made for the businessman on a quick tour of the Island or for the visitor with very little time to spare.
By Road By Helicopter
Colombo - Negombo ... 45 mins. ... 5 mins. - Bentota ... I hrs. ... 30 mins. — Hikkaduwa ... 2 hrs. ... 50 mins. - Galle ... 2 hrs. ... 60 mins. - Tangalla ... 3 hrs. ... 75 mins. -- Yala ... 6 hrs. ... 20 mins. - Kandy ... 2 hrs. ... 40 mins. — Nuwara Eliya ... 4 hrs. ... 45 mins. - Foot of Adam's Peak 4 hrs. ... 40 mins.
(Climb 2 hrs) — Jaffna ... 7 hrs. ... 35 mins.
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By Road By Helicopter
Colombo -- Anuradhapura ... 4 hrs. ... 75 mins. - Wilpattu ... 5 hrs. ... 60 mins. - Trincomalee ... 6 hrs. . . 20 mins. — . Sigiriya ... 4 hrs. ... 60 mins. - Polonnaruwa ... 5 hrs. ... 75 mins. - Kakudah ... 7 hrs. ... 10 mins.
You may, for instance, spend your day on the sun-lit east coast beaches of Trincomalee or Nilaveli or seeing the beautiful coral gardens at Hikkaduwa on the west coast and return to your hotel in Colombo by evening, or tour a wild life sanctuary and be back in Colombo for dinner. You may if you wish, stay overnight in one of the ancient cities, see wild elephants, leopard and bear at Wilpattu or Yala game sanctuaries and return to Colombo the next day.
From the moment you enter the helicopter to the moment you step of it, your tour is in the competent hands of personnel of the Sri Lanka Air Force. The pilots, you will find, are not merely pilots ; they are also charming guides, friends and ambassadors. Their manner and friendliness will overwhelm you. Prices are not beyond the average tourist.
Tours range from $70 to $100 per head for day excursions and $130 to $50 per head for two-day excursions. This is the cost of air transport only and is subject to the availability of four persons per helicopter. The helicopter may be hired by a single person at four times this rate.
The Sri Lanka Air Force also operates charter flights with the twin-engine Convair 440 aircraft (40 seats), Riley Skylines (12 seats)
Heron aircraft (15 seats) and the twin-engined Cessna Skymasters (5 seats), on both inland and Maldives flights.
Some of the tours operated by Helitours are:
Day excursions (Helicopter)
Colombo-Polonnaruwa-Anuradhapura-Colombo: Colombo-Anuradhapura-Wilpattu-Colombo:
Colombo-Wilpattu-Colombo:
Colombo-Kandy-Colombo:
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Two-day tours (Helicopter)
Colombo, Hikkaduwa, Yala. (Night stop, Amaduwa, Yala) Central
Hills, Nuwara Eliya, Kandy, Colombo.
Colombo, Hikkaduwa, Yala (Night stop Amaduwa, Yala) Central
Hills, Nuwara Eliya, Colombo.
Colombo, Hikkaduwa, Yala (Night stop Amaduwa, Yala) Colombo
via Ratnapura. N
Colombo, Sigiriya via Aukana, Polonnaruwa, Trincomalee (Night stop China Bay, Trincomalee) Anuradhapura, Wilpattu, Colombo.
Convair-40 passengers-on inquiry
Two-day tours-(Heron or Riley)
Colombo-Polonnaruwa-Trincomalee-Anuradhapura-Colombo:
Colombo-Jaffna-Colombo:
Colombo-Male (Maldives)-Colombo:
Day excursions-(Heron and Riley)
Colombo-Amparai-Colombo:
Inland charter. 5 passengers.
Maldives (Cessna) 3 passengers.
For further information on SLAF Air Tours, contact: Sri Lanka
Air Force, Sir Chittampalam Gardiner Mawata, Colombo 2. Telephone : 31584, 3384 (Extension 33).
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CHAPTER 9
The calendar
JANUARY : An extremely pleasant month in most parts of Sri Lanka. In the lowlands it is cool by day and night, about 79°F in the day and even lower at night. In the hill country, especially at Nuwara Eliya and Horton Plains, the temperature averages 57.7°F. At night there may even be frost. January is almost at the tail-end of the North East Monsoon and very little rain will be experienced.
The sea on the west and south coast is calm and is excellent for swimming, skin-diving, fishing, spear-fishing and boating. The sea on the east coast may still be rather turbulent. At Hikkaduwa it is the best time for viewing the coral gardens and marine life either skin-diving or from a glass-bottomed boat. These conditions prevail till about the middle of April when the South West Monsoon begins to set in. January ushers in the harvest season and the time of harvest song.
Women may be seen during this month reaping paddy in the fields and buffaloes threshing the harvest to kavi sung by farmers.
January is a good time to visit the Ruhunu National Park (Yala). The Park is at its greenest and abounds in migrant birds. The water-holes are full and large herds of wild elephant may be seen till about March, mostly in the mornings.
The Duruthu Perahera, second only to the world famous Kandy Perahera, is held at the Kelaniya Temple, about 5 miles
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from Colombo. It commemorates a visit by the Buddha to Sri Lanka. The Hindu harvest festival of Thai Pongal in honour of the Sun God is held on the 4th of the month.
FEBRUARY : The water is usually fine throughout the island but may be a little warmer than in January averaging 79.6°F in the low country and 57.8°F in the hill country.
The sea on the west and south coasts is calm and good for swimming, fishing, skin-diving, spear-fishing and boating. The sea on the east coast may be calm. Fourth of February is Independence Day.
Wild life may still be seen in plenty at the Ruhunu National Park. If you visit the other National Park, at Wilpattu, carry a blanket with you as the nights are cold.
The Hindu festival of Mahasivarathri is celebrated in February or early March. It is a festival commemorating the winning of Lord Siva by his consort, Parvathi, through the efficacy of penance.
Roman Catholic festivals of an un usual nature are celebrated at churches consecrated to St. Anthony on two normally uninhabited islands (Kachchaitivu and Palaitivu off the Jaffna Peninsula).
MARCH : The days and nights are warmer, averaging 80.9°F in the low country and 58.8°F in the hills. Little or no rain will be experienced and it may become uncomfortably warm by the end of the month. The sea is calm right round the Island and is good for fishing, skin-diving, boating, Swimming and spear-fishing.
The schools' cricket season is in full swing. By the end of this month several flowering trees are in bloom throughout the Island. Many tropical fruits, too are in season.
APRIL. : April is the warmest month of the year throughout the Island. It can be uncomfortably warm in certain parts, temperatures going up to 100°F in places like Kurunegala, Trincomalee and Anuradhapura. The temperatures in Colombo and the south Coast may go up to 90°F. It is the most pleasant time of the year in Nuwara Eliya and in the hills. The temperature here may be around 75°F. This is the holiday month in Sri Lanka with several festivals like the Sinhala and Tamil New Year and Easter being celebrated. Many affluent Ceylonese spend these holidays in the hills, especially in Nuwara Eliya, Bandarawela and Diyatalawa. A number of sports events like tennis tournaments, golf championships, motor sports နိit† and boat races are held at these hill stations during this rn Onth.
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The extreme heat ends with scattered showers by about the middle of April until the South West Monsoon sets in.
April is the month of fruits and flowers. The whole island is ablaze with red, yellow, pink and purple flowers. Most flowering trees like the Jacaranda, tabebuia rosea, tabebuia serrati folia, laburnum, flamboyant, petophorum and the Queen Flower or the Pride of India, are in bloom. The hill country is especially beautiful during this month. The Botanical Gardens at Hakgala and parks in Nuwara Eliya are a riot of colour. Flower shows are held in Nuwara Eliya at this time of the year.
Fruits such as mango (Mangifera indica), pineapple (Ananas sativus), Orange (Citrus sinensis), jambu (Eugenia javanica), ripe jak (Artocarpus integrifolia) begin to be available in plenty.
The sea begins to get turbulent on the south and south-west coasts, but calmer on the east coast. The best time for swimming, skin-diving, boating and spear-fishing on the east coast is from April till about September.
April is also a month of festivals in Sri Lanka-Buddhist, Hindu, Muslim and Christian. The Sinhala and Tamil New Year falls on the 3th 14th. The Muslims celebrate Milad-un-Nabi (the birth of Prophet Mohamed) which sometimes falls in May, and the Christians, Easter.
The Sinhala and Tamil New Year festivals are spent in the observance of age-old customs, folk dancing and national games like coconut shies, elephant races, hackery races, climbing the greasy pole and pillow-fighting. A common feature is the playing of the rabana (large bass drum with open bottom) by girls and women dressed in their best.
The trek to Adam's Peak which begins in December ends with the Sinhaia New Year and the onset of the South West Monsoon.
The Pattini Festival is celebrated in Badulla, Hanguranketa and Uda Hewaheta.
Easter is celebrated by the Roman Catholics with a passion play at Duwa, off Negombo. The play is on the lines of the passion play at Oberammergau.
Aquatic birds at Kumana Sanctuary start building their nests.
MAY : it is usually a wet month with the South West Monsoon setting in. The western and southern parts of the Island and
parts of the central hills get the heaviest rains. Elsewhere, rain is light. The sea on the southern and western coasts is rough, but
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the sea on the eastern coast is calm and ideal for water sports. Average temperatures in May are 82.3°F in the lowlands and 62.0°F in the hills.
Many flowers are still in bloom and several varieties of fruit, especially the mango, are in season.
May and June are the best months for bird-watching at the bird sanctuary at Kumana. These are the nesting months. The migratory flamingoes may be seen in their thousands in the lewayas or lagoons in the Hambantota and Bundala areas and around the Ruhunu National Park. They may also be seen in the lagoons near Jaffna and along the eastern coast.
The blow-hole at Nakulugamuwa near Tangalla is at its majestic best.
May Day is celebrated as Workers' Day as elsewhere in the world.
On the full moon day in May is celebrated the most hallowed of Buddhist festivals-Vesak-which commemorates the Birth, Enlightenment and Death of the Buddha. Among the many striking decorations are the myriad paper lanterns of different shapes and sizes and the thousands of little clay coconut oil lamps which glow throughout the Island, especially in the villages, on this day. In the cities, electrically illuminated "pandals' depicting events in the life of the Buddha are put up. Dansal (booths) where food and refreshments are served free to sightseers and pilgrims, are a common sight.
May 22, Republic Day, is a holiday and is observed with a military parade and pageants.
JUNE : It is usually a wet month in the southern and western parts of the Island. The sea is still rough on the south and southwest coasts but calm on the east coast. Average temperatures are 81.4°F in the coastal area and low country and 60.8°F in the hills. it is a good month for bird-watching and photography at Kumana, the bird sanctuary in the south-east of the island.
On the full moon day in June is celebrated the festival of Poson to commemorate the arrival of Mahinda, son of Emperor Asoka of India to Sri Lanka with the message of the Buddha. The celebrations centre mainly at Mihintale and Anuradhapura, where thousands of pilgrims converge on this day to observe ata silthe eight noble precepts.
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Elephants may be seen in large herds (sometimes 50 or 60 in a herd) at Lahugala in the south-east of the island. A gradual build-up of elephant herds begins in this area and reaches a peak about September. Bird life is plentiful at Kumana. Flamingo may be seen in large flocks along the east coast and in the North.
From June to August a dry wind, the kachan, blows through the island's dry zones.
Eastern Roseate Terns start nesting in the rocky islets of Hikkaduwa and Talaimannar. This is the height of the mango season in Jaffna.
JULY : Usually a dry month, but light scattered showers may be experienced in the south, west and certain parts of the central hills of the lsland. The sea on the south and west coasts may still be rough. Average temperatures are 80.8°F in the low ands and 60.2F in the hills.
The best places to see wild life at this time of the year are Wilpattu and Lahugala. Bird life is plentiful at Kumana.
July and August are the festival months in Sri Lanka. A number of festivals, including the world famous Kandy Perahera and the Wel festival in Colombo are held either late in this month or in August, depending on the Esala full moon.
The feast of St. Anne at Talawila (off the Colombo-Puttalam road) is celebrated by Roman Catholics.
Fire-walking at Udappu and Mundel takes place in late July or early August. These are two fire-walking ceremonies ideal for photography.
Pilgrims to Kataragama from Batticaloa and the east coast start their annual trek by foot and cart through Kumana, Block 2 and Yala.
AUGUST : it is a month of merry-making and festivals. A dry month usually, with a few scattered showers in the south, west and in the hills. Average temperatures are 81.0°F in the lowlands and 60.4°F in the hills.
The seas are still rough on the south and west coasts, but calm on the east coast and is excellent for fishing, boating, skin-diving and Swimming. یwم
Several important festivals are held during this month, the foremost of which is the Kandy Perahera. It is one of the most
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spectacular pageants in Asia. It pays homage to the Tooth Relic of the Buddha with a nightly procession lasting 10 days and culminating with a day procession on the eleventh day. The perahera or procession consists of gaily caparisoned elephants, dancers, drummers torch-bearers, whip-crackers and Kandyan chieftains in traditional regalia. Peraheras, on a smaller scale, are also held at Bellanwila (8 miles from Colombo), Lunawa (10 miles from Colombo), Devinuwara (104 miles), Ratnapura Saman Devale (56 miles), Kotte (5 miles), Mahiyangana (8 miles), and Hanguranketa (89 miles), during this month.
The Hindu festival of Wel is held in Colombo during this month. (Sometimes in July). It is the annual visit of a gilded chariot bearing the ayudha (weapons) of the Hindu war god Skanda from the Hindu Temple in Sea Street, Colombo il, to the Kovil at Bambalapitiya, Colombo 4,
Hindu festivals of singular interest are celebrated in the Peninsula of Jaffna during this season. Of these the most impressive take place at the Kandasamy Kovil, Nallur; the Kandasamy Kovil, Maviddapuram; the Nagapooshani Ammal Kovil on the island of Nainativu; the Perumal Kovil at Vallipuram and at the Sellasannathi Kovil, Thondamannar, where fire-walking takes place.
Fire-walking and other acts of penance also take place at Kataragama where, too, a festival of great significance to both. Buddhists and Hindus is held.
The Kali Festival is held at Munneswaram, off Chilaw.
Gam Maduwa (a propitiation ceremony) is held at Kehelgamuwa 3 miles of Ginigathena.
The jungle shrine of Madhu (172 miles from Colombo) is a popular pilgrim retreat for Roman Catholics who celebrate a festival here.
Fruits in season are rambuttan (Nephelium lappaceum), avocado pears (butter fruit-Persea gratissima), mangosteen (Garcinia mangostana), durian (Durio zibethinus), custard apple (sweet Sop-Anona squamosa), guava (Psidium guyava) and mango.
August is a fairly dry month in the North Central Province and it is therefore good for seeing wild life in the Wilpattu National Park. Leopard, bear and elephant may be seen. Elephants in large groups, sometimes up to 40, are seen at the Hembarawa tank about 1 miles of Mahiyangana.
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SEPTEMBER: A fairly dry month throughout the Island. The seas are calm all round and are good for fishing and water sports. Temperatures average 80.9°F in the lowlands and 62.2°F in the hills.
After a hectic round of festivals, September is a comparatively quiet month. Up to the middle of September, it is good for photography at waterholes in Wilpattu as drought conditions may prevail. August and early September are the best months for the photography of the barking deer at Wilpattu. At Yala, scores of spotted deer, may be seen at Heenwewa in the mornings.
About 200 elephants move in to the Somawatiya Sanctuary near Polonna ruwa.
w About 40 varieties of migrant birds start flying in to the island from as far away as Northern Siberia. Negombo, 22 miles from Colombo, springs to life with the return of the migrant fishermen from the east coast.
OCTOBER: The North East Monsoon winds begin to blow and the sea becomes turbulent on the northern and eastern coasts. The sea of the southern and western coasts is now ideal for viewing the coral gardens at Hikkaduwa. Rain may be experienced in the north and east and in parts of the hill country. On the western and southern coasts it is usually bright. The nights begin to get cooler in the hill country. Average temperatures are 79.8°F in the lowlands and 60.0°F in the hills.
s The Deepavali festival celebrated by Hindus and la-ul-Fitr celebrated by the Muslims fall either at the end of this month or at the beginning of November.
Deepavali is a festival of lights. It celebrates the triumph of good over evil and welcomes Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth.
Open season (for bird-shooting only) is from November 1 to April 30. Birds that may be shot during the season are all varieties of green pigeon, Snipe and duck. .
Hare and wild boar may be shot throughcut the year.
NOVEMBER: This is usually a rainy month throughout the island, especially in the north and east where the North East Monsoon is active. Temperatures drop and the nights are cold. It becomes quite cold in the hills. Temperatures average 79.2°F in the lowlands to 59.6°F in the hills.
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The sea is calm on the south and west coasts, but rough on the north and east coasts.
This is a good month to observe migrant birds, especially the flamingo at Hambantota.
Peacocks perform their mating dance from November to March at the Ruhunu National Park.
DECEMBER: A rainy month in the east and north of the Island but usually bright elsewhere. The sea is calm on the west and south coasts, but turbulent on the east and north coasts. Temperatures drop sharply in the hill country and it is fairly cool in the lowlands. Average temperatures are 79.0°F in the lowlands and 58.6°F in the hill country.
This is the month in which the pilgrim trek to Sri Pada (Adam’s Peak) begins. It goes on till April.
A series of gala nights are held in Colombo and some of the main towns in the Island from the beginning of December to New Year's Eve.
The mango is again in season and so are many other varieties of tropical fruit.
. This is a good time to see wildlife at the Yala Game Sanctuary.
Elephants may be seen in large herds.
The full moon day in December is observed as Sangamitta Daythe day on which Sangamitta, sister of the Buddhist missionary Mahinda and daughter of Emperor Asoka of India, arrived in Sri Lanka bearing a sapling of the sacred Bo-tree under which the Buddha attained enlightenment at Buddha Gaya in India. It is this same tree, over 2,000 years old, that is seen at Anuradhapura.
28).

CHAPTER 20
Of spice and curry
IT was men of Marco Polo's adventurous period. that lifted European cookery into the beginnings of an art. Yet it was as preservatives rather than flavouring agents that-in pre-refrigerator ages-their virtues were earliest exploited. One had to disguise, somehow, the taste of too-high meat
Europe had long received vague rumours of the existence of exotic herbs, and when sailors brought in tangible evidence of "curiosities' from the East, such as pepper and other spices, the stage was set for a great leap forward in the art, science and enchantment of good eating.
In short, the rush was on for black pepper, cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger and all the other tropical "dragons' that huffed and puffed stimulating odours and flavours into dull, un inspiring European dishes.
Arabs, Portuguese, Dutch, British outdid one another in their efforts to grab and maintain what these plants, growing in the tropical East, had to offer in the form of leaf, bark, flower, berry and pod. Empires were founded and lost. In fact, the Dutch were able to pay off a whole garrison in Sri Lanka on the sale of lowly arecanuts alone!
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Cinnamon: Take a deep whiff at a piece of cinnamon bark before it goes into the pot-all, the fragrance of Araby, a flashing, delightful, agreeable, warm aroma! Only a poet could complete the description. Little wonder it has been used for sacred purposes, to heighten religious ritual and, more practical, to embalm Egyptian royalty and to scent funeral pyres of kings and emperors.
They came all the way down, round the Cape of Good Hope, over the Arabian seas, the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British to dance round this "bride' who dowered them with wealth and power.
The Portuguese built a fort at Negombo for the sole purpose of overlooking the cinnamon lands around. The Dutch, who sent peelers into forests and lands in territories of Sinhalese kings to gather wild cinnamon-their principal source of revenue-adopted the wiser and safer tactic of cultivating cinnamon near their settlements. They not only enslaved the cinnamon peelers (the chaliyas) but sentenced to death anyone giving away or selling a stick of cinnamon Cinnamon flourished wild in ancient Lanka. It is now extensively cultivated on the western seaboard, the bark peeled off the branches, is dried and exported.
Cardamom : The little seeds nestling in capsules have a special aroma of their own. This spice is used to flavour curries, for sauces, and to give aroma to confectionery, especially watalappam, a. yfical Malay egg pudding. It is also masticated to sweeten the breath.
The plant is cultivated in clumps, sheltered under other trees, in areas over 3,000 feet. The seeds which are indispensable parts of this spice, are gathered in their capsules and dried in trays.
Pepper : This pungent berry, earliest known spice to man, is referred to in ancient chronicles. Marco Polo commented on its extensive use in China, and the merchants of Venice and Genoa prospered because of it. Over a ton of pepper was extracted by the conquering Atilla as ransom for the City of Rome and in the middle ages the Europeans had to submit themselves to a strange form of taxation-Peppercorn Rent.
The berries are collected from perennial climbing vines. The berries grow in clusters like mini-grapes. When the clusters turn red they are plucked and dried till they are black and wrinkled. White pepper is obtained by macerating them, after first soaking them in water.
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Pepper is used frequently by cooks ahd Ceylonese housewives as a pleasant and mollified substitute for red-hot chilles. It's strange but the closer you get to the equator, the hotter are the curries Excellent soups are prepared with pepper, a world famous one being Mulligatawney.
Cloves : They look like little four-starred sceptres and are so aromatic that courtiers had to freshen their breath with them before addressing their emperors. The Dutch tried to rig up a price monopoly for this spice by confining its growth to the Moluccas. But the French beat them to it by Smuggling plants into the islands of the Indian Ocean and Sri Lanka.
Cloves are really the undilated flower buds of a beautiful, evergreen, aromatic tree and are picked when they turn green.
When processed they are deep brown in colour with a very fragrant odour, acrid in taste. A volatile oil is given out when crushed. When dried they are used for flavouring food and confectionery, heightening liqueurs and also as an aid to digestion, preserving gums and teeth. N
Nutmeg : This spice is obtained from the pulpy, edible fruits of an evergreen tree, 50 to 60 feet in height, growing in the low-lying areas of Sri Lanka. The fruit when ripe is about 2 inches in diameter, and splits into two halves when mature, exposing a single shiny seed with a crimson wrapping, like the head of a Nubian potentate wreathed in a red turban
Nutmeg is the kernel of this seed. The 'turban' is removed carefully and dried to produce mace. The seeds are then exposed to gentle heat or gradually dried in the sun. When dried, the shells are broken with a flat piece of board or a mallet, and the nutmegs picked out and sorted.
Oil of mace or nutmeg butter, a fatty substance, orange brown in colour and with a pleasant odour, is made by grinding the remnant or refuse nutmeg to a fine powder and steaming over cauldrons. On further distillation with water, a volatile oil is released.
In addition to fatty oils, mace and nutmeg yield essential oils which are used to perfume soaps and scents. Nutmeg has carminative and stimulative properties. Used excessively it has the effect of a narcotic. Generally it is used to flavour food and confectionery and also as a medicine in intestinal and digestive ailments.
Ginger: The tuber of a reed-like plant with stimulating, aromatic and carminative properties, is used for stomach ailments and
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fevers. It is more extensively used as a flavouring for curries and also for pickles and preserves.
Coriander : Although used in a decoction for fevers, coriander is a basic ingredient used daily in Sri Lanka to add flavour to curries. In bulk, it is the chief of all curry spices and benefits the palate and health.
Turmeric; Tiny yellow tubers, ground into a fine powder or paste, is used as a condiment in curries. A little turmeric and salt are all that is necessary to preserve fish and meats for subsequent cooking. مر
A COOK'S TOUR: Time was, when travellers, suspicious of unfamiliar food and drink, missed one of the pleasantest experiences of travel. Restaurants serving indifferent imitations of their native menus catered to these nervous tourists who did not dare stray from the dull, beaten track of their "meat and two veg."
4appily, better counsel prevails now; today's guide-books. and travel advisers urge travellers to sample the native food and drink of their destination.
Sri Lanka's history of migration, invasion and incursion has bequeathed a rich culinary legacy on this small island nation.
The staple main-course is rice and curry-in that order. Rice comes in a very wide variety, each with a distinctive flavour. The different processing techniques also give a range of textures to the cereal. A very versatile staple, rice, which is boiled and served plain for everyday, lends itself readily to fancy dressings.
Kiribath, which translates into "milk-rice', is an auspicious festive dish-a kind of unsweetened rice-pudding-cooked in coconut milk, the thin cream expressed from grated coconut. Kiribath is served with a sharp red chilli relish or a treacle and coconut confection. Yellow rice is also cooked in coconut milk and flavoured with cloves, cardamoms, saffron and fresh herbs.
Buriyani, a Moorish inspiration, is cooked in meat stock and garnished with hard-boiled eggs, chopped meat and is traditionally "perfumed ' delicately with rose-water. Ghee Rice is cooked in meat stock and clarified butter, flavoured with herbs, cardamoms and garnished with cashew nuts, peas and raisins.
lampro, is of Portuguese origin-the rice is boiled in meat stock,
then packed together with a variety of 'dry' meat and vegetable curries and fricadels (tiny fried meat or fish cakes) in banana leaves
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and baked in a slow oven. The delicacy is served in its banana wrapper and is worthy of a listing in Larousse Gastronomique.
Curry is derived from Tamil kari, which simply means "sauce'. No simple sauce this-contrived from a precise blending of chilli, coriander, white and sweet cummin, mustard, pepper, fenugreek, cinnamon, clove and cardamom. All or most of these spices may be roasted lightly. They are then stone-ground-the cordon bleu rule is to grind the ingredients freshly each time Curry is usually cooked in coconut milk-this gives a rich and flavoury basic sauce. Every curry is further flavoured by the addition of a bouquet garni-of fresh herbs and garnishes-shallots, sharp green peppers and karapincha (Muraya koenigii) and sometimes rampe (Pandanus latifolia), lemon grass, mint, garlic and green ginger. Curry cooks also insist on the addition to all vegetable dishes of a spoonful of powdered Maldive fish (dried and cured skipjack.)
Within its basic structure, curries can vary widely. Chicken, beef and mutton are cooked in the classic way in a thick sauce of coconut milk and all the curry spices. The preparation of fish (which is generally preferred to meat by the majority of Sinhalese who are Buddhists) varies widely according to regions. The best known fish speciality is the southern ambul tiyal. While the red, firm-fleshed skipjack is favoured for this dish, it is equally good made with white fish such as seer, or para (mackerel). The fish is marinated in a sharp sour paste made from black pepper, goraka (the fruit of the Garcinia gambogia) and salt and baked slowly in a "salamander of clay pottery'. This dish has a very agreeable savoury sour flavour and improves with keeping. Prawns make an extremely tasty curry, made only with chilli paste, coconut milk and the usual fresh herbs. Whitefish also makes a delicious "white' curry. Here the ingredients are stone-ground mustard, turmeric, cinnamon, garlic and green ginger. Fish "smore.' is a delectable Dutch-Sinhalese compromise, as is beef 'Smore' and meat-ball curry.
Two regional "specials' deserve special mention-the northern kuul-a main dish of fish, prawns and vegetables simmered together and thickened with palmyrah flour. The other is the highland speciality polos pahi. This is an excellent vegetable standin for meat or fish. The main ingredient is tender jak (Artocarpus integrifolia), which is cooked till fairly dry in a spicy curry-the rich aromatic gravy is the perfect foil to the pink, tender, subtlyflavoured fruit.
No Ceylonese festive table is complete without seeni sambola very rich dark, sweet-spicy onion and Maldive fish preserve.
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The Ceylonesc breakfast board is particularly tempting and almost all are in the Cordon bleu class, Hoppers are a great favourite-crisp, leavened, ground-rice delicacy with perhaps an egg baked into the centre, sunny side up. Stringhoppers-delicate circlets of steamed dough pressed from a mould are delicious with curry. So is pittu-a crumbly mixture of flour and fresh, grated coconut, steamed in a bamboo mould. The correct accompaniment for pittu is fresh coconut milk and a rod chilli relish or curry,
But this is only half the story. To set off the spicy main dishes, the Ceylonese have a delectable collection of sweets. Here, too, the main ingredient is rice and the sweetening medium palm treacle. The best known is kavun, mushroom shaped batter cakes of groundrice and treacle, fried in oil. The Dutch who ruled a part of Sri Lanka in the 7th and 18th centuries, were so impressed by this sweet, that thinking it past the power of mere mortals to create such perfection, asked if they grew on trees
MSmi is another sweet masterpiece. There are delicate sugarfrosted batter turnovers, poured from a mould. A vegetable liaison is added to the ground-rice batter to give it a very agreeable crisp texture. Kalu dodol is another triumph-a rich, dark, delicious Confection Contriwed from Coconut milik, jaggery (Palm candy) and cashew nuts. Sau-dodol and kiri-dodol are more homely but equally delicious; a kind of "mould but honey-coloured, made of ground-rice, coconut milik, and treacle; the first gravel-textured, the second, smooth.
Only a cookery book can possibly hope to list them all-the richness and the variety of the exotic and the homely food; for gastronomically, too, Sri Lanka is truly the Resplendent Land.
GOBLIN MARKET : If it were possible for Christina Rossetti's hallucinatory green-grocer to be in this world and not in clf-land, Sri Lanka would surely have the best claim for its location. Although its climate is basically tropical, sudden high elevations and a fantastically varied terrain give the island a variety of "mini' regions which make it possible to grow almost every kind of fruit,
In any catalogue of the Island's fruits, pride of place must surely go to the mango (Mangifera indica). Quite decidedly a tropical fruit, the mango thrives only in the hot-house warmth of tropical temperatures. The mango comes in wider variety than any other edible fruit-hybridisation has added many more, Fruit outlines can vary from the classic 'manga " shape (which has inspired the Paisley pattern used so often in textiles) to an almost geometrically perfect sphere. Some are tiny, no bigger than a large plum, others grow to be as large as coconuts, one fruit being enough for a family
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dessert. The skin when ripe may be green, deep gold, pink purple or scarlet; smooth or wrinkled. It is hard to describe the taste of any fruit; more so the mango as it comes in such an infinite variety. The luscious peach-like flesh can be honey-sweet or have a hint of tartness, with a strong or delicate flavour, and a very agreeable bouquet. Fortunately for the Ceylonese, the mango thrives almost everywhere in the Island. From the peninsula of Jaffna come the tastiest fruits in many varieties, one even complete with its own built-in beetle.
Mangoes have a rival, however, in mangos teens (Garcinid mangostana) which, according to some gourmets, is the finest of all tropical fruits. Round, deep purple and crowned by a large green calyx, the fruit contains a nest of delicious, Sweet-sour, filoshy white Segments ". . . . of the flavour of strawberry and the grapc."
Sri Lanka does not have a strong image as a pineapple producer, but it grows some of the finest pineapples (Ardrid's sativus) ever. The medium-sized Mauritius strain is preferred to the large green Kew ; the former is a heavenly balance boweeen sweetness and
tess.
Papaw (Carci di Papaya) is another classic among tropical frui L5. Large, deep-fleshed and with a ma 55 of black Filips within, the Papa w is a sweet, subtly-flavoured golden mush-melon; lowed by sun-sick British Colonial officials, as a first course at breakfast, served ice-cold.
The banana (Musa sapienturn) is everybody's everyday fruit in Lanka, eaten at almost every meal. It is a convenient, low-priced, non-seasonal dessert, and comes in so many varieties that it never stales. The sweet, Starchy, golden-skinned kalikut tu is the finest of all.
Of guava (Psidiurn Guyaya) too, Sri Lanka has a great wariety ranging from the tiny wild aromatic Chinese guava to the giant hybrid : " . . . polished, almond-green without, and deepest cyclamen with in, seed-free and Sweet as sin." The pectin-rich guawa makes a very good jelly, boiled with sugar and strained through muslin.
At least four varieties of Custard-apple do well in Sri Lankabullock's heart (Anona reticulata), sour-sop (Anoma muricata) sweetSop (Anond squamosa) and cherimoyer (Anona cherimosia). As the names would indicate they are variations within one genus, sugary, tart or band, each has its own unmistakable flavour.
Sapodilla (Achrgs Sapota) is the closest tropical approximation to a peach. The fruit is deceptively drab, rather like a round Potato ; the flesh is apricot-coloured and homey-5 weet.
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Woodapple (Feronia elephantum) and bael fruit (Aegle Marmelos) are rather ungainly in appearance, with a hard, woody shell. Woodapple is strongly flavoured, sharply Sweet-sour and its rich trufflebrown pulp makes a very popular fruit-cream. The bael fruit acquires a golden tan when ripe, and exudes a delicate aroma. its golden, glutinous, Sweet pulp makes a delightful dessert, creamed with sugar or golden syrup.
Durian (Durio zibethinus) or civet fruit must surely be the most controversial of tropical fruits. Described as delicious by its addicts, and as disgusting by those who cannot stand its unpleasant odour, this large round-to-ovoid prickly-skinned fruit is sometimes served creamed as a fresh-fruit custard.
Rambutan (Nephelium lappaceum) is another delicious tropical exotic, but so untamed and sensitive to the elements that it rarely appears at all during certain years. Scarlet, maroon or goldenskinned, and covered by short fleshy hairs, these berries have a central stone covered by delicious, transparent sweet-tart flesh. The flesh is so mouth-watering, but so firmly anchored to the stone, that eating rambutan smacks of the torments of Tantalus.
Purple and green avacado pears (Persea gratissima) thrive in the foot-hills of Lanka. The creamy, bland fruit is hardly ever eaten as a hors-d'oeuvre in the island, being generally preferred as a dessert.
Almost all varieties of citrus fruits grow well, or indifferently, depending on the region. Oranges (Citrus sinensis ) are all green-skinned, yet the fruits, especially those of the dry zone, are as sweet and juicy as the best from Jaffa. Grape fruit (Citrus grandis) thrives especially well in the hills, as does the giant, delicious pink pomelo (Citrus decumana). The fine, large sweet mandarins (Citrus nobilis) also deserves honourable mention.
What more does the cornucopia hold ? Honey-dew canteloupes, purple and golden passion fruit (Passiflora edulis) and Sweet-ripe-jak (Artocarpus integrifolia), dripping honey. Pomegranates, "full and fine", worthy almost of Persephone. Many delectable semi-wild fruits and berries such as the sugary green olive (veralu-Elaeocarpus serratus) : the Crisp juicy pink jambu (Eugenia javanica) : the exotic sweet-acid kamaranga (Averrhoa Carambola) : the rich subtle purple uguressa (Flacourtia cataphracta) : the strange nam-nam (Cyometra cauliflora) whose delicious but gnarled fruits are borne, stuck almost stemless on the tree trunk and the delicious sweet-tart ambarella (Spondias mangifera), are but a few of the Island's fruits that would take volumes to describe in their entirety.
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CHAPTER 2
Old stuff- and new
SRI LANKA has two distinct beverages derived from her coconut, kitul and palmyrah palms-toddy and arrack. The former a sweet, frothy, cloudy, cider-like drink, the latter a pale amber spirit, fierce in its own way. • -
TODDY : Fibre, wood, food, shelter, oil and jaggery, are some of the blessings conferred on the Islanders by the coconut palm. The sprouting buds of the coconut flowers, too, are tapped, yielding a Sweet and tippling sap-toddy.
The collecting process is unique. Knives, bones, ropes and
pots, human perception and skill, and with the Co-operation of
insects the stage is set to produce 5 million gallons of toddy and 7 million bottles of arrack a year!
The heads or fronds of about 80 to 100 palms are connected by a series of aerial ropeways. It is on these swaying ropes, 50 to 60 feet above the ground that the tappers move from tree-top to tree-top, nimble and surefooted as Sherpas.
The flowers sheathed in a hard, fibrous covering-the spatheare bound with strips of tender fronds in order to inhibit natural growth. They would otherwise explode into a golden yellow spray.
The sheath is sliced off two inches from the tip, exposing the buds and it is at this stage the "mystic' operation is initiated.
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A bone or mallet is brought into play and the surface tapped every morning and afternoon for a week or so. The sap, precursor of toddy, begins to ooze out in response to this 'gentle' wooing. Then for another week or so thin slices of tissue at the top are shaved of twice a day.
Ants, bees and wasps move in-unmistakable signs of nature that the toddy has started to flow, and the tapper unerringly inverts earthern pots over the end of the spathe. From then on, collection starts in earnest and tappers commute on the aerial ropeway daily, lowering potfuls and slipping on empty ones. The yeast that forms at the base of pots aids fermentation.
The toddy pots are emptied into casks, strained in the process to remove ants, bees and wasps and is retailed at toddy booths and taverns all over the Island. -
Two other kinds of toddy obtained by tapping of flowers are kitul toddy from the kitul palm, and palmyrah toddy from the palmyrah. Both have distinctive flavours compared with coconut toddy. Palmyrah toddy is drunk in the northern peninsula (Jaffna) as a gently tippling and health-giving draught, while Kitul toddy, a sweetly pleasant cider-like beverage, is consumed in much smaller quantities in the mid-country regions.
ARRACK : A by-product of toddy, but what a by-product Thanks be to Bacchus Arrack, a truly indigenous drink, is said to have been exported to South India during the time of the Sinhalese kings.
A word about the production of arrack. Millions of gallons of fermented toddy are taken to Government-owned distilleries. The toddy is boiled in cauldrons. The first runnings or "foreshots' are not taken as arrack. The second-the 'middle runnings' or clean spirit is potable arrack, by condensation and moderate maturing. The demand is greater than the supply. Then come the last runnings-the “ tai lings ’-which, along with the "fore-shots are mixed once again with toddy and re-distilled into arrack.
"Gal', ' Pol', 'Extra Special", "Double-distilled are various grades of arrack. " Gal' is really a hybrid containing a blend of coconut arrack and "silent spirits' (potable alcohol) imported from Africa, Egypt, Brazil and China. Pol', 'Extra Special' and "Double-distilled are grades of arrack derived from toddy. "Double-distilled ' arrack is 27 under-proof alcohol (40%), while the others are 40 under-proof alcohol (30%).
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CHAPTER 22
A' . R * :
O :
Stones that sparkle
ON a tea estate in Rakwana, in Sri Lanka's Sabaragamuwa Province, a tired driver reversed his lorry into an embankment. Leaping out to check the damage, he found a Blue Sapphire in the handful of earth on the tail-board. Abandoning lorry and job, the man hared off to nearby Ratnapura-the City of Gems-and sold his find to the first dealer he met. The price was Rs. 60,000. The stone was to finally fetch three times this value.
This is the stuff that legends are made of. Go where you will in the Sabaragamuwa, or to the newer gemming areas of Elahera, and you will hear stories like this in their hundreds. Some of them may be exaggerated, but many are true. Fortunes have been made in the gem business by the miner, the dealer and the smuggler. Hearts, too, have been broken and the blood, Sweat and tears shed by many thousands of gemmers in skimpy loin clothes, toiling in the mud in their quest for the pot of gold at the foot of the eternal rainbow, is immeasurable. But there have been the lucky strikes and this is what keeps gems booming in this land which early travellers called the Ratna dvipa-the island of gems.
Sri Lanka has been rightly famous for her gems, blue sapphires (the 400-carat "Blue Belle' adorns the British Crown), cat's eyes, rubies, alexandrites and a variety of other less precious stones whose names roi richly on the tongue: aquamarines, tourmalines, spinels, topaz, garnets, to name a few. Their names in the Sinhala language
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are just as melodious-nila, ratha, pushparaga, vairodi-like roses which by any other name would smell as sweet.
Driving along the Colombo-Ratnapura road, or further on in the direction of Pelmadulla, the passer-by cannot miss the gem pits. You see them by the roadside, set in the emerald greens of paddy fields, their timbers stabbing the air with their typical wigwam-like tripod shape.
These pits are seldom, if ever, deep. They are almost inevitably sited in valleys and lowland, on river-beds, river banks and terrain whose geographical and geological nature suggests that the gembearing illama, the rich, pebbly gravel that conceal the gems that would one day sparkle against the throats or on the fingers of lovely women, would have been deposited in the course of countless Centu rieS.
The gemming is not restricted to the roadside. The scattering of pits to be seen from the main road are only a fraction of the mines that displaced coconut as the third leg of the tripod on which the Sri Lanka economy stands. You find them in the jungles, in plantations, in paddy fields, anywhere, in fact, where finds have been reported or there is promise in the lie of the land.
The miners are clad in amudes, a loin cloth barely sufficient for modesty but amazingly practical for work in the mud and water that the gemming entails. There is little chatter as men dig out the illama from the vein they have struck very close to the surface of the ground, and heap what looks like ordinary brown earth into cane baskets.
These are carried into pits where other men work waist deep in water, expertly swirling the illama brought down to them in large baskets. The water in the pit, coloured like cafe au lait, becomes darker and muddier as the clay is washed off the gemgravel. The baskets used in this operation are a virtual engineering marvel. The weave is close enough to hold the finest gravel, but the water in the pit flows easily, in and out, taking away the clingy clay and mud until the illama is as clean as the gemmer wants it.
He pauses momentarily, clasps his hands in an attitude of worship and says a silent prayer. If the gods are good, maybe the basket would hold a gem of "the purest ray serene' as Thomas Gray had it in his 'Elegy'. The gravel slips through work-worn fingers as he sifts this basket of illama looking for a tell-tale glimmer. This, for the gemmer, is serendipity. Perhaps he is lucky. If he is, it is the good fortune of all those working the pit who get a share of the find in time-honoured proportions.
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The man who finances the pit gets a share; so does the licensee who has paid the Government for the mineral rights on the land; the pump operator gets his cut, and last but not least the "working partners '-the men who toil in the mud of the pits.
Deep in the gem country there are those who talk bitterly of people who have cheated; of the gemmer in the pit who had swallowed a stone from his basket, of the man who sold a gem to a dealer and did not declare the real price it fetched to his partners; they will quote the age old legend that in the pit the father does not trust even his son. But a great part of the operation is done on trust, otherwise, gemming is not a business that would click.
Thus it is that a gemmer or dealer would leave a parcel of stones, often worth millions, wrapped in rags, with a prospective buyer for examination and valuation. Old hands at the game laugh at the big Colombo business houses, new in the gem game, who carefully inventorise the contents of any parcel they may give a prospective buyer. The oldsters still operate on the principle that they known each other-man does not do business with a cheat
A fascinating aspect of the gem trade is the traditional way in which a buyer and a gemmer did business. A man would offer a stone and the prospective buyers would examine it. They would then place a hand each, under a handkerchief, on a table and the buyer would keep touching the fingers of the seller in a code well known in the trade. The touching of a particular finger, or a segment thereof, had a price on it according to this system. When the price was right, the buyer and seller would clasp hands under the handkerchief and the deal was clinched. This way, a seller could bargain with a group of buyers and no man would know what price another offered. But these are now almost things of the past.
Today, the lonely trading outposts have been left behind for the bustle of the City. No longer are stones weighed in the palm of the hand (a genuine stone when picked up is always heavier than you expect it to be) and valued by the experienced eye of the expert. Microscopes, refractometers, spectroscopes and the most delicate of balances are but a few of the instruments with which science has augmented the discerning eye and delicate hand. Yet, the final assessment of value is in the human eye: machines cannot assess beauty
To a great extent the use of these instruments has become necessary due to the abundance of synthetic, imitation and faked stones hawked around in this modern era. Apart from the many shops that deal in gems in Colombo, there are two State organisations specially set up for the benefit of foreign tourists-The State
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Gem Corporation and the Gem Society run by the People's Bank. The Corporation is the biggest single seller of gems in the Island and offers foreign buyers the advantage of selecting from a very wide range varying from the more popular blue sapphires and rubies to the breath-taking star Sapphires as well as a dazzling array of cat's-eyes, alexandrites and garnets. These stones are on display in two of their showrooms in the heart of the City and the third at the Bandaranaike International Airport. The Gem Society, too, has its sales point in the City.
The Corporation also affords the tourist an opportunity of having gems purchased anywhere in the Island tested for quality free of charge at its showrooms in York Street, Fort.
Gems are generally classified as precious or semi-precious. However, this classification is purely arbitrary as there is no sharp distinction between precious or semi-precious gems except, of course, in price Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and one may be as delighted by a low-priced chrysoberyl as by a priceless ruby. Apart from rarity the value of a gem is determined by rather conflicting factors. A gem, for instance, must be flawless and yet contain inclusions (particles of foreign matter) which may well enhance its value. A gem must, of all things, be termed durable and finally be subject to the vagaries of ephemeral fashion.
The alexandrite, for instance, which is not exceptionally beautiful is highly priced for its curious change in colour and rarity. The garnet, on the other hand, could be strikingly beautiful and yet is cheap as it is found in large quantities. Trends in fashion as well as supply and demand create sharp fluctuations in the prices of gems making it impossible to offer even a very flexible price-guide-to-a- carat. So, only a brief description of some of the lsland's stones must suffice.
Corundum: Two varieties of this mineral are considered precious-sapphires and rubies-which come in a spectrum of colours ranging from the blues, greens and yellows (of the sapphires) to the pinks, violets and reds of the rubies. Of the Sapphires the most prized are undoubtedly the Royal and Cornflour blues, flawless specimens, deep hued and with high lustre that could be very expensive indeed. Sapphires and rubies are always in demand and are little affected by fickle fashion. In hardness, sapphires and rubies are second onfy to diamonds but are certainly second to none in beauty. Rubies vary in colour from pink to the pigeon-blood red, a colour which is much sought after.
The pretty yellow Sapphire is unhappily nowhere near as popular as the far more expensive blue. Yet, a colour saturated
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stone can be extremely beautiful and deserves far more attention than it now receives. Often called "oriental topaz", this sapphire is often worn as ring stones in Sri Lanka as it is said to ward off hostile spirits and their effects (apala). Another such stone is the kakka nila, a dark blue-black sapphire which is almost opaque.
Corundums frequently display asterism-the star effect. Inclusions, called "silk' by those in the trade, cause a white six-rayed star which is displayed at its best when the stone is viewed with the sun or a single bulb as the source of light. Many are held spellbound by the "star' which seems to come alive as the stone is gently moved about.
Beryl: Though the emerald is not found in Lanka, its poor relation, the aquamarine is. These beautiful and very aptly named stones vary in colour from sea-green to sea-blue in infinite nuances of shades. Lacking the fire and lustre of the corundums and not being as hard, they are moderately priced.
Garnet: Another semi-precious stone, quite commonly found in the Island, it is sometimes referred to as the 'ruby garnet'. It is a softer and lighter stone than the ruby and lacks its lustre and fire though deeply coloured. A paler cinnamon-brown varietygommeda-is frequently set in rings by the Ceylonese.
Chrysoberyl: Usually yellow, yellow-green, green or brown, these stones are very attractive and are much sought after. Outstanding among them are the cat's-eye and the rare alexandrite. The cat's-eye or vairodi display chatoyancy and, when cabochon cut, a clear, iridiscent ray appears giving it the appearance of a feline's eye. The translucent body-colour of the stones vary from green to brown, of which the honey-brown is by far the most popular today. The quality of this stone is judged by its translucence, colour and the silvery lustre of its single ray. High prices are paid for quality stones, and quite rightly so, as a good cat's-eye is an unending joy to behold.
The alexandrite, or passingala as it is called by the gemmers, is a rare and unusual stone which realises five-figure prices for a precious carat. Alexandrites are unique in that they appear emeraldgreen in daylight and red under artificial light. These rare stones are only found in the Ural Mountains of Russia and in parts of the Southern and Sabaragamuwa Provinces of Sri Lanka. Even rarer is the alexandrite cat's-eye where the colour change occurs only around the "pupil' which remains an unchanged single, silver ray.
Tourmalines come in a variety of shades of yellow, green, red and blue. Some of the rarer tourmalines are multi-hued with
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layers of red and green precisely "zoned within the stone. Carefully cut to display the colours, these stones are extremely attractive. Tourmalines are semi-precious stones.
Zircon: This mineral is known in the Island as jagunda thora. Though a comparatively soft stone, it has brilliance and fire approaching that of a diamond. Scientists believe that the Sri Lanka zircon has gone through a "breaking-down process' for some 800 million years. The zircon has strong double refraction and brilliant fustre. The colourless varieties of zircon are marketed abroad as "Matara diamonds". Zircons range in colour from yellow to orange; and from brown to olive brown.
Topaz: The yellow "precious topaz" is found in Sri Lanka and being modestly priced is often used in jewellery. The stone is hard and takes an extraordinarily high polish which experts claim, helps them to identify it by its characteristic slippery touch.
Spinel: A frequently found but very attractive stone, the kirinchi, could be blue, red, green or even orange in colour. These stones are quite hard and may either be transparent or opaque. Heat treated for changes in colour in the villages of Gintota, these semi-precious stones are becoming increasingly popular.
Quartz : is found in many colours and are either transparent, translucent or opaque. These moderately hard stones are cabochon cut and used frequently in "fancy jewellery'. Amethyst is a purple variety of quartz which is very attractive. Rose and smoky quartzoften mistakenly called smoky topaz-are used for cocktail rings and pendants. Smoky quartz vary in colour from light to dark brown and sometimes are dark enough to look almost black. These stones are quite cheap.
Moonstone: A popular variety of feldspar, this opalescent stone is usually pale grey displaying a silky lustre when cabochon cut. The moonstone with a blue tinge is rarer and more attractive.
Stones that sparkle have a romance of their own. They weave a spell round human hearts as indefinable as it is seductive. They have influenced the lives of men and women, kings and queens in profound and incredible ways, and created down the ages a world of endless enchantment.
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CHAPTER 23
Vannam, kolam, thalam
THE basis of the dance as found here is the rhythm of drums. The drum is the king of local percussion instruments and without it there will be no dance. The rhythms and variations are intricate and many and it would take you a long time to master what on the first hearing seems to be very simple.
The classical Sinhalese orchestra consists of five categories of instruments. They are three types of drums-the one-faced, the two-faced and the flat-faced. Then, the metal percussion made up almost always of cymbals and lastly, the wind section which is dominated by something akin to the clarinet. This last section is . not normally used for the dance. This is important, because the Sinhalese dance is not set to music as the western world knows it. Here, the music is the primary sense of rhythm and patterns of man in motion as beaten out by the drummer.
There are six basic drums which you should be able to recognise when they are in use. The first is the most popular and most representative. It is called the Pana bera (bera meaning drum) or Geta bera. This drum is indispensable to what is called the Kandyan Dance, which we will see later, is mostly identified as the typical Sinhala dance. The next type of bera is the Mihingu or Yak (Yak meaning devil) bera which is used a lot in what is called Low Country dancing where mask and devil dancing are highly developed forms of art. The Yak bera makes a distinguishable hollow boom and speaks with almost a deep human voice, while the Geta bera
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is capable of an infinite variety of tones and in the hands of a virtuoso becomes a great vibrant instrument.
The Dowla, another kind of drum, was in the early days used as a companion drum to keep strict time. It is barrel-like in shape and therefore different from both the Geta and Yak which are tubular. Its best use was in military marches. You could hear it played even today when the Hevisi Band of the Sri Lanka Army performs (hevisi meaning martial). There is the Tammattamathe flat two-faced drum beaten on top, unlike the others where you drum on the sides. This drum is the companion of the dowla and forms a part of the hevisi. As in the dowla the striking is done with sticks.
The many kinds of split rhythms, variations and virtuoso drumming that is possible on this drum is the envy of all great and aspiring western drummers. The Udekki is a very small double-headed hand drum. On the outside of the udekki there is a band with which you hold it while you strike it with the other hand. The udekki is used to accompany songs and is best heard in the Vannam or poetry dances.
The Rabana comes in several sizes. The largest, unlike all the other drums we have so far mentioned, must be kept on the floor for playing. The rabana is large and circular with a flat face and several persons can sit round it and play at the same time. It is used on festive occasions and is capable of many interesting rhythm patterns. The smaller rabana can be carried and played like one would the udekki.
it would be useful to learn to differentiate between the various types. You will find commonly, references to two types of dances the Up-country, better known as the Kandyan dance; and the Lowcountry. The basic difference is in the manner in which the dancer perform their rituals. These require different dance rhythms and drums.
The Wes dance is typically Kandyan and in fact the picture of the Wes dancer symbolises the Sinhalese dance because the Ves (mask) he uses is unique and not found elsewhere. The mask is not a Govering of the face. It is an elaborate head and face dress which transforms the appearance of the dancer. His face continues to be visible. The real face mask is worn in the Low-country dance, where the dancer depicts particular beings.
The great Kandyan ritual dance is the Kohomba Kankariya.
This is the dance to invoke the blessings of the Kohomba God. The Kohomba is the margosa tree. The ritual itself lasts for a week,
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the last night and morning seeing the dance climax. There are over thirty aspects to the ritual as a dance. It is not possible except for a trained dancer to go through these various patterns. Therefore to wear the Ves is a great honour and denotes that one is a trained dancer. One of the best known excerpts of the ritual is the Kol Padu or invocation which you may see at concerts and similar performances or the perahera. In the original ritual no women danced. With the emergence of a theatrical tradition women have been given a place in the dance.
In both the Kandyan and the Low-country rituals there are dances of pure movement. The Devol ritual, for example, contains this kind of pure dance. Thelme, as one of the dances in this ritual is called, is a good example. The dancer indulges in gay abandon and frenzied free limb movements in apparent spontaneity. But the dramatic qualities of the rituals as a kind of theatre are best seen in the masked dances both oi the Devil type, known as devil dancing or the Sanni dances which represent the aspects of man over which a particular spirit rules; for example, you have the spirit of avarice and greed or the spirit of carnal love and so oneighteen of them. The dance of the Dahata (eighteen) Sanni is quite an exciting form of Low-country theatre.
Similar Low-country traditions have given us the mask dancing of story and episodic theatre. These are called the Kolam. Here, too, besides the human characters depicted with masks we find the appearance of benevolent spirits in masks as friends of the community. Two excellent examples of this are the dance of Nonchi Akka, that is Nonchi the elder sister, and the Nagarasa-the cobra mask dance. The wooden masks used in the Kolam (literally means putting on a character) are extremely humorous as well as provocative. Similarly, as an interlude in the drama there appear the favourite animals of the people. There is the Sinha or Lion dance and there is also the dance of the Bears. The animals do not behave in these dances as if they were dangerous beasts of prey but as playful animals having fun.
There is a category of Kandyan dance known as the Wannama, which is a beautiful combination of poetry and dance. The Wannam usually, describe life in nature around you. The dancer moves to an intricate pattern of rhythms to depict the subject of the poem. Excellent examples of this dance are the Gajaga Vannama-the elephant (poetic) dance, the Rajaliya-eagle, Ukussa-hawk and the Mayura-peacock. All these subjects are favourite symbols in the Sinhalese art world and occur very often in paintings, carvings and in literature. The Wannama is a very sophisticated and artistic dance.
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There is also a kind of Wannama which is patterned on the abstract. A good example is the Asaddrussa vannama which depicts the serenity of the Buddha and the state of blessing upon supplication. The Wannam carry with them the bare elements of a future ballet suite. It is from them that many of the theatrical creations of the modern dances of the country have emerged. \
Not quite like the poetry of the Vannam but equally literary in source are dances based on myths and legends. Among these are the story of Devadatta and the Hansa (swan) and the story of the Goddess Pattini, renowned for her chastity.
We next come to a group of dances which belong to an extremely popular variety. One does not have to be the trained maestro of the rituals to participate in them. They are of a festive nature and give great fun to the dancers. They are not sophisticated and are constructed on comparatively simple rhythmic patterns. Some of them are vigorous and could well find their place in a gymnasium rather than as a dance.
The Pantheru (tambourine) the Raban and the Thalam (cymbal) are dances with the percussion instruments of the traditional orchestra. The dances display great dexterity in throwing and catching and playing the instruments as they weave through various dance patterns. Much more athletic and robust are the sportive dances, the Leekeli (stick dance) and Asipatha (sword dance).
No description of the dances of the lsland. would be complete without reference to a category which celebrates events in the life of the people. The Harvest dance is perhaps the best known of these; the women sing as they go about their work. In the hands of skilled choreographers and theatre artists including those well versed in the styles of decor, these little pieces of folk enjoyment can turn out to be colourful and attractive gems of contemporary theatre. '
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CHAPTER 24
Exorcism and the Occult
THE visitor to Sri Lanka could, if he so desires witness several magico-religious ceremonies which are still part of the way of life of the islanders.
The foundation of magical belief appears to be animistic; that unseen powers exist everywhere. If the correct rituals are performed these powers can be invoked to assist the magician or sorcer rer.
in Lanka this type of magic prevailed as far back as the first millenium B.C. There are several records of magico-religious ceremonies in many early Sinhalese works. Most of these ceremonies were carried out by the Yakkahs, a race of people who worshipped demons.
Foreign influences began to infiltrate into these practices as early as the 5th century B.C. with the coming of Vijaya and his Aryan companions (543 B.C.) from North India, where there were strong demon-worshipping folk cults. They brought with them many demonological beliefs and Superstitions which mingled gradually with those already existing in the Island.
Demonology in Lanka had developed in the form in which it still appears, as early as the 7th century A. D. In fact, Robert Knox's account of it in his "An Historical Relation of Ceylon' (168) is not very different from the form in which it exists now.
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There are five broad types of magic in the Island:
Demonism - worship of demons and evil spirits.
Kapuism - worship of gods of the Hindu pantheon, de
migods and deified heroes.
Grahaism - worship of planets and stars.
Charms - a large number of rituals including spells and
talismans.
Indrajala - conjuring.
Demonism : According to local demonology the actual number of demons runs into millions, Vesamuni being their king. Demons are believed to haunt forests, mountains and streams. They are also believed to be seen by people in man-made abodes, such as desolate houses, graves, cemeteries, lonely roads (particularly the junction of three roads).
However, only about twenty demons are invoked and propitiated in the Island, the majority of them being those that are believed to bring illness. Those most often invoked are:
Kola Sanniya, the demon of fatal disease.
Mahasona, the demon of cholera and dysentery, depicted as being 20 feet tall with a bear's head and carrying an elephant, the blood of which he
drinks.
Riri Yakka, the demon of all fevers, born from a drop of blood and generally depicted with a corpse in his mouth.
Kalu Yakka, the Black Demon, arisen from an Asura's
(Titan's) ashes and believed to prey on women and children. Related to this demon is Kalu Kumara Yakka, who is also said to cast evil spells on women.
Demonism is found in varying degrees throughout the Island, but is most prevalent in the south-west coastal area. When a demon is thought to have brought disease or misfortune on someone a very spectacular ceremony known as thovil is held to cast off the evil
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influence. Thovil is the "exorcism' and "binding' of a demon. The ceremony is conducted by a Kattadiya (sorcerer) and lasts throughout the night, from dusk to dawn, usually taking place in the compound of the afflicted person's home.
Before commencing his devil-dancing ritual the Kattadiya first ascertains which demon is to be exorcised, or which demon is causing the trouble. He then constructs a tattuva (altar) on which are placed various offerings, such as betel leaves, flowers, fruit and oil cakes. Then, wearing various colourful masks, he performs numerous dances and incantations in front of the altar. Once the demon has been enticed out of the body of the sick person, it is often "bound to a tree'. Sometimes the demon is thought to "enter' the betel leaf reposing on the altar. Seven threads have previously been placed around this leaf and these are pulled, so that the loops close round the leaf tightly. The threads are then taken to a tree and fastened on to nails driven into the trunk. It is believed that demons fear iron, and so will not descend below the iron nails. When the ceremony is completed, the offerings are taken and placed at some lonely spot.
Kapuism : This is practised by the Kapurala or lay priest, who presides over the devale (temple). He is not an ordained person and no special qualifications are required for the office. The profession is hereditary, handed down from father to son. The kapurala invokes spirits of a class superior to demons. They are known as devayas (gods), although some in fact are deified heroes, whose blessings are invoked for their protection against sickness and evil. Although usually considered less evil than the demons, they are nonetheless believed to be extremely dangerous, and must be correctly propitiated or they may bring famine and other ills.
The propitiation ceremony is known as deviyage and is usually carried out at the devales. The four main patron deities of Lanka who are worshipped at the devales are Maha Vishnu, Saman, Natha and Kataragama. Every year in July at the shrine of Kataragama, in the jungles of Southern Lanka, a festival of mystical and devotional rites takes place. In addition to propitiating these deities, the kapurala may invoke their aid to relieve people's troubles. For example, he may prepare a charm to punish an unfaithful wife or an enemy.
Grahaism: It is believed that there exist grahayo (planetary deities) who can influence a person's life. If this influence is unfavourable, it could cause sickness or misfortune, which can be averted performing various ceremonies, of which the most interesting is bai.
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ん
The bali ceremony is held in the bali maduva (place of ceremony), which is usually erected in the garden of the atura (afflicted person). The bali maduva floor is purified with fresh cow dung, milk, water and sandalwood powder. Below its roof is a white canopy. The baliya (the image of the deity to be propitiated) is moulded of clay, placed on a bamboo screen, and kept covered by a white cloth.
The bali edura (officiating priest) begins the ceremony by tracing on the ground with rice the ata-magala (eight-sided figure), on which he places various offerings. He then takes a kanya-nool (thread spun by a virgin), ties one end of it to the baliya and, trailing the rest round the bali maduva, ties the other end to a lime, which he hands to the atura. Like the thovil, this ceremony also lasts throughout the night with intermittent drumming, dancing and chanting of kavi (verses), the onlookers occasionally shouting ayubovan (let there be life). As a climax the atura either walks or is carried to the baliya, into which he sticks the kanya-nool, which he has been holding throughout the ceremony, and throws the lime at it. The baliya is kept in the bali maduva for about three days after the ceremony. It is then taken and placed against a tree in the compound and sprinkled with charmed water.
Charms : The belief in the efficacy of mantras (charms) as an unfailing protection against earthly dangers and as a means of annoying enemies is widespread in the Island. The sorcerer, or the person who practises these charms, is known as the kattadiya. Before his mantras can be rendered effective they must undergo the process of jeevama (endowing with life or supernatural power), without which they will be merely a string of meaningless words. The efficacy of a mantra is limited to a certain length of time, for example one year or one hundred years, and the power cannot be restored by another jeevama once it expires. Most mantras are very old. Some are written in colloquial Sinhalese, some in a mixture of Sinhalese and Sanskrit, while still others are in Dravidian languages, chiefly Tamil and Malayalam.
Charms or mantras may be divided thus: Pilli, Hooniyam, Angam, Yantra.
Pilli: There are eighteen different kinds of pilli, all of which take a similar form. A mummified dead body of either a first-born male infant, a cobra or a scorpion is given "life' with various incantations and rituals. The kattadiya then orders it to go and kill his enemies or his client's enemies.
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There are four ways of causing death by pilli-stabbing, strangiing, biting and stinging. Often such incidents as snake-bites and scorpion-stings are attributed to pilli.
Hooniyam : This charm takes its name from the Hooniyam Yakka, a demon who is said to have been born from the poisonous breath of a cobra. In the main type of hooniyam a small image is made of wax or wood to represent the victim. Nails made of five different metals or thorns of five different types of citrus trees are fixed to each joint, along with a few hairs from the victim's head and a thread from his clothing. The appropriate mantras are then recited over the image and it is buried in the ground, at a point the victim is likely to walk over. The mantras vary in malignance and can be cast to take effect within a day or an year. If the victim is to recover, the image must be disinterred and destroyed.
Angam : A leaf or flower is endowed with jeevama, rolled into a cigar and smoked. The wind carries the smoke towards the victim, who is said to collapse and die within a few hours.
Yantra (amulets) : These are worn around the neck, waist or arm as a protection against evil and misfortune. They consist of various intricate designs drawn on copper or silver foil or on ola teaves, which are rolled and placed in gold or silver cylinders, known as Surayas.
Indrajala or Esbendum (conjuring): Some historians are of the view that the Chingulas (Sinhalese) were originally magicians, sorcerers and enchantresses who had left their original homeland, Parquea (bordering Persia) and migrated to Lanka, where they continued to practise magic and conjuring.
Visitors to Lanka can witness many of these spectacular magicoreligious ceremonies referred to in authentic settings. Most of these magic rituals have a profound influence on all levels of society in the Island. Dandris de Silva Gunaratna (1865), an authority on local demonology, comments: "Every one, I think, will find a ready response to this in his heart, though perhaps all are not equally inclined to acknowledge that there is a certain fascination in terrible, mysterious and supernatural events...' -
ASTROLOGY cannot be omitted in a discussion on magic in Sri Lanka. Several magic rituals are performed at special times on special days fixed by the astrologer. These are known as auspicious times and days. Astrology played an important role in everyday life in Lanka in the past, as it does now, for nothing of importance is carried out without first consulting the Nekatiya (astrologer).
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King Dutugemunu (161-137 B.C.) considered the astrologer to be of such importance that he provided "a doctor, an astrologer and a priest for each group of sixteen villages throughout the kingdom.'
Even as late as the 9th century medical knowledge in Lanka seems to have been interwoven with astrological notions. Davy (1821) states that for a Sinhalese to be “ an accomplished and scientific physician, he should also be an astrologer, that he might know what concern the stars had in producing the disease.'
The nekatiya is an indispensable figure in contemporary Ceylonese society. Many seek the help of the astrologer to caste the horoscope of a new-born baby. It is drawn and written on an ola leaf, and gives details of the future life of the child.
When the child is about seven months old the rite of indulkata ganava (feeding of solids for the first time) is performed. The astrologer is consulted to ascertain the auspicious time. Similarly, when a child learns the alphabet for the first time another rite is celebrated (athpoth thiyanava). In this too, the astrologer determines the auspicious moment. In the choice of a marriage partner the horoscope is rigorously consulted.
The Alut Avuruddha or the Sinhalese New Year, which falls in April, is the astrologer's busiest time. Many people come to him to learn what fate has in store for them during the coming year. There are several astrological rituals connected with the observance of the New Year, to which the people adhere rigidly. Among them are the auspicious time for lighting the hearth, eating the first meal, bathing and commencing work again in the New Year.
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CHAPTER 25
Nimble fingers
THE Chinese made play with paper, turning out colourful lanterns and ingenious decorations with flower, bird and animal motifs or geometrical designs, for use on festive and other occasions.
On a parallel, but using a natural material-coconut palm leaves-the art of gokkala is practised in Sri Lanka. Like childart, this delightful handicraft, presenting a multitude of imaginative shapes and forms attracts one in a simple and unaffected way, causing surprise and joy. It may, perhaps, be due to the anonymous craftsmen who venture out only when their "magic' is needed to add freshness and a natural grace to the decorative, dramatic and ritual aspects at ceremonies and occasions. Or it may be that it is the very material used-tender coconut leaves-that awakens such reactions.
Gokkalava, or the art of gokkala, creates decorations that are ephemeral. The myriad of artists' creations from the tendergreen palm fronds adorn the festivals, weddings and even funerals of Lanka. The origin of this art is not known, but it prevails only in this Island today.
Although children amuse themselves by weaving toys, Snakes and birds, circles and stars, and little boxes and baskets to store the treasures of childhood, it is the adult craftsmen with generations of experience behind them who weave intricate gokkala decorations, their shapes and forms as varied as the human imagi
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nation. The compositions are infinite; be they lotus blossoms, lamps, peacocks, ceremonial archways, vases, lanterns, or the punkalasa, the pot of plenty, deep-rooted in Sinhala tradition.
The only material used are the tender fronds of the coconut palm in their variety of hues of green, ranging from the cream of the tenderest leaf to the deepest tone of the mature frond. The craftsman strips the leaf-blades from the ribs and deftly cuts his medium into desired lengths. Sometimes, he may use his knife to improve on nature's border and Soon he is at work, weaving, creasing, looping, plaiting-nimble fingers expertly creating works of art.
Hand-made objects have a special charm and attraction of their own. In Sri Lanka, right down the ages, humble folk living close to nature have been turning out objects of utility and aesthetic delight, using indigenous materials.
Some of the best examples of Ceylonese handicrafts are found in many shops. Laksala, a Government emporium, offers a wide and representative range of such articles. To name some: repousse and damascened brass, silver and copper; lacquered ornaments of wood; ancient-styled water vessels and vases of pottery; mats, baskets and boxes woven of palm leaf; trinkets and jewellery; devi masks . . .
if you visit hill-country villages, you can watch craftsmen at work. Seated on the floor they hammer away or smelt the metal in very primitive furnaces. Remoteness from modern life has preserved the purity of their products.
The same applies to the Dumbara weavers, who are a secluded clan of people who weave a very special type of narrow mat out of a hemp which grows wild about the hills. The colours, patterns and the stylized animal and bird motifs they use today-and the loom too-are the traditional ones, used over many centuries. The mats serve as wall-hangings in many sophisticated homes.
If you visit the hill country, you should also try to see the people who work in lacquer. This is another fascinating artlacquerware, both melted into the wood of lathe-turned objects (called beeralu veda), and a delicate type of applique in various designs called niyapothu veda-thumb nail work. The lacquer is prepared of an exudation on twigs of plants on which the lac beetle is found.
Brownish red, unglazed clay pottery-terracotta-is traditional to Lanka and, apart from utilitarian ware such as water-coolers,
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clay pots and pans, potters of Matara and Kelaniya turn out some quaint and unsophisticated clay animals, using natural pigments. Figurines and animals with distinctly Sinhala characteristics are stil made. *
Mask-making is another traditional handicraft of Lanka. There are a great variety of masks which are a speciality of the southern coastal areas. Lanka's masks are very different from African masks, and are of two distinct types-those worn for ritualistic ceremonies and those for folk drama. The Naga Mask (Snake Mask) is large with cobra hoods spread out above the demon's bulging eyes. There are over a score of masks still used in exorcism. They are made of light wood as the dancer has to wear it for hours.
There is an excellent range of wood in Lanka, and objects both of utility and artistic value are turned out by craftsmen: elephants of ebony, bowls, plates and plaques of rosewood, mahogany, satinwood, teak and a host of other woods.
In the case of ebony, the genuine article is judged by its weight. Heartwood in ebony is softer than the sapwood and patches of old yellow or deep honey-coloured undertones may be seen beneath the black. Some prefer these variations to the pitch black singletone ebony.
Ivory-carving is another handicraft of Lanka. Ivory, especially old ivory, is darker in colour and shows a distinct grain, as in wood, yet is of a smoother texture. In shops there are exquisitely carved ivory perahera elephants, bedecked with silver and gems, for sale.
Tortoise-shell ware, delicate and beautiful, is produced almost entirely in Galle in the Southern Province. Strangely, the tortoise has nothing to do with it; it is the shell of the turtle that is used.
As for textiles, some highly attractive handloom products are turned out. ۔۔۔۔
A very eye-catching textile handicraft in which Sri Lanka is amongst the world leaders in design is "batik". Fascinating motifs and colours, some traditional and others highly individual, are used by artist-craftsmen and women to produce distinctive wall-hangings, drapes, dress and shirt lengths and sarongs, and ready-to-wear garments of all sorts. Batik parasols have a particular flower-like gaiety. The designs created are "married' permanently to the cloth by a waxing process which permits controlled selective dyeingthe whole thing hand-done. A good batik is always marked by a hair-fine "crackle', the finer and cleaner lined the better. Remem
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ber, too, that every separate colour involves a separate dyeing process; whence, naturally, an enhanced price.
The Dutch - possibly even the Portuguese before them - introduced "pillow' lace-making to the island, and to this day you may see, especially in villages along the western and southern coasts, Vermeer's Lace Maker at work - in a Sinhala transmogrification
Kalutara basketware is noteworthy: beach hats, shopping bags and handbags, d'oilies, boxes . . . are woven by craftsmen out of leaves of many sorts. The typical Kalutara medium is the leaf of the indi palm; but reeds and rushes of several species of other plants are similarly utilized. Jaffna basketware-some of it can actually hold water-employs palmyrah palm leaf.
Handmade antique jewellery can sometimes be picked up. The "safer' buys are pieces in which the metal is either a 5-element whitish alloy called paslo or, at the most extravagant, silver; - and in which the stones - especially white or black tourmalines are cabochon cut, not faceted. There are some very attractive old kuras (dart shaped hairpins) thus fashioned which can be most elegantly adapted as brooches and clips for use withWestern attire. Moonstone jewellery set in silver is not only lovely, with its dreamy bluish sheen, but is cheap enough to be not worth faking.
The igenuity of Sinhala craftsmen has persuaded them to venture into new fields, besides. Astonishingly life-like carvings of tough old faces, quaint monkeys, elephants ... are created with remarkable resource and deterity out of whole coconuts, using both the shell of the nut and the fibrous coir that clings to it. These clever ornamental "sculptures," so witty in their caricature, will delight many. All these, and in addition models of local ox-carts and fishing canoes, will be found in most curio shops.
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CHAPTER 26
Ehala, muruta, araliya...
NOT infrequently, the impression of the visitor to Sri Lanka, when he glimpses the Island for the first time from the plane, is of the lush green of the vegetation, fringed in the coastal areas, by the slender coconut palm. But, as the visitor soon finds out, the colour of the Island's foliage is not confined to shades of green. We are, of course, not reckoning the flowers here.
in 1860, that erudite writer on Sri Lanka, the encyclopaedic Emerson Tennent, observed :
"As regards the foliage of the trees, it might be expected that the variety of tints would be wanting which forms the charm of a European landscape, and that all nature would wear one mantle of unchanging green. But......... such is far from the fact, and though in Ceylon there is no revolution of the seasons, the change of leaf on the same plant exhibit colours as bright as those which tinge the autumnal woods of America."
This change of colour of the Island's foliage, which unlike that of autumn, does not occur simultaneously in all trees, is more often than not, derived from the young leaves which burst forth to displace their ageing predecessors.
However, in February-March and again in September-October
throughout the Island, the dying leaves of the country almond, Terminalia Catappa (kottamba), assume colours of yellow-orange or
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shades of red which are certainly comparable with the American fall. This tall, handsome tree is visited by flying foxes (bats) attracted by the sweetish pulp of the fruit. Within this pulp is a corky envelope covering the tasty kernel. When the dry fruits fall into water; the husk ensures floatation. Thus, the seed is carried to distant places and a new generation emerges.
Another common deciduous tree of Sri Lanka is the large Ceylon "oak", Schleichera oleosa (kon) which bears seasonal reddish brown leaves. In contrast with the country almond, it is not the dying, but the tender leaves which are coloured; these appear in February-March. The fruit of the Ceylon "oak" is edible and has a sweetish acid taste.
Also in February-March, the medicinal Terminalia belerica (bulu) a close relative of the country almond, puts out its clusters of creamish young leaves which, from a distance, could be mistaken for flowers.
Much admired are the young leaves of the sacred Bo-tree, Ficus religiosa (originally brought by Buddhists in 288 B.C. from N. India). They assume deep pink and various shades of green twice a year and always 'shake like an asp" (Knox) in the wind. Have all the botrees in Sri Lanka originated from the original Sri Maha Bodhi at Anuradhapura, the oldest historical tree in the world?
'Compared with it the Oak of Ellerslie is but a sapling; and the Conqueror's Oak in Windsor Forest, barely numbers haif its years. The yewtrees of Fountains Abbey are believed to have flourished there twelve hundred years ago; the olives in the Garden of Gethsemane were full grown when the Saracens were expelled from Jerusalem; and the cypress of Soma, in Lombardy, is said to have been a tree in the time of Julius Caesar; yet, the Bo-tree is older than the oldest of these by a century, and would almost seem to verify the prophecy pronounced when it was planted, that it would
flourish and be green for ever.' '
There are several other members of this ficus or fig 'family', (actually a genus) in the Island. The large, spreading banyan tree, Ficus benghalensis (nuga), is common throughout the Island. It is smooth-barked, bears crimson berries, and from its branches always descend innumerable pink-tipped aerial roots.
Perhaps the most fascinating officus trees is the square-leaved fig, Ficus parasitica (ahatu). When young, it grows on the trunk of a tree; later, its clasping, latticed stem surrounds the host eventually strangling it and becomes a large tree with spreading branches. : Palmyrah palms in various stages of strangulation by this tree can be seen along roads in the dry regions of the Island. Tennent's description of these figs as "the thugs of the vegetable world' seems most appropriate.
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The ironwood tree, Mosua ferrea (na) has been one of the most popular trees of Sri Lanka. It was planted in the pleasure gardens laid out by Parakramabahu I (1153-186). Its large, white, scented flowers are very popular temple offerings while the young slender blood-red drooping leaves are as striking as the flowers. The dark red timber is used for construction of bridges. One variety of this tree is found in Sri Lanka only.
Among the more important timber trees of Sri Lanka, pride of place should, perhaps, be given to the Calamander, Diospyros quaesita (kalu madiriya). This tree, which produces a pale wood streaked brown and black ("Ceylon's most beautiful furniture wood'), is now, alas, virtually unobtainable. So also is the much valued, fine-grained, cabinet and furniture wood of Pericopsis mooniana (nadum), which is increasingly scarce. The gloomy Ceylon ebony, Diospyros Ebenum (kaluwara), rarely grows above an altitude of 500 ft. Its jet black wood (Tennent stated that the Ceylon ebony excels "all others in the evenness and intensity of its dark colour') which is used for furniture has also been used for making opium
pipes.
The satinwood tree, Chloroxylon Swietenia (buruta) is still plentiful in the forests of the dry zone but injudicious exploitation may result in its gradual demise. The use of this pale yellow wood was, in earlier times, confined to temples. Trincomalee wood, Berrya cordifolia (hal-milla) is universally useful; its best timber is from Dambulla. The so called "Ceylon teak', Tectona grandis (tekka) is, in fact, not an endemic tree but the yellow barked Vitex altissima (milla), of the same family, which yields tough termite-proof wood, is. Similarly, the venerable and widespread tamarind, Tamarindus indicus (siyambala) from which a hard, dark red wood is obtained, has been introduced from Africa; the sour sweet pulp from the tamarind pod is a must for mutton curry. On the other hand, the related velvet tamarind, Dialium ovoideum (gal siyambala) is found in Sri Lanka only. Its wood is dark red, fine-grained, handsome and tough. It derives its popular name from the oneseeded velvet-coated brown fruit which is edible and sold in markets; the fruit is a favourite of school children.
To state that handsome flowering trees are not wanting in Sri Lanka would be a gross understatement. -
Of the several flowering Cassias in the Island, perhaps, the most attractive is the so-called "Indian Laburnum', Cassia fistula (ehala), a small tree widespread in town and jungle. This "finest of all Cassias' puts out pendulous masses of pale to dark yellow flowers
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from March to June. The dark pipe-like pods are used as a laxative in ayurvedic medicine; little wonder that it is sometimes called "purging Cassia'. No one who travels through the Island, be it in town, village or jungle, during January to March, will fail to be dazzled by the sight of tufts of brilliant scarlet flowers on a medium sized, leafless tree. This is the thorny, coral tree, Erythrina indica (erabadu), a favourite haunt of nectar-seeking birds during its flowering season.
The Flamboyant or Golden Mohur, Poinciana regia (mal mara) is, as its name suggests, a tree with gorgeously-coloured flowers. A native of Malagasay (Madagascar), it is planted in towns for its brilliant scarlet or reddish orange flowers which appear in profusion from February to May. Another large tree planted along roadsides, especially in Colombo, for shade and ornament is Peltophorum pterocarpum. Its rust-yellow, delicately-scented flowers appear from March to April and again in September-October. The ulip tree, the tall Spathodea campanulata (koodellagaha), from tropical West Africa, which bears masses of reddish-orange goblet shaped flowers very regularly, is also planted on roadsides (there is a Spathodea Avenue now, alas, innocent of any Spathodea trees in Colombo) and on estates up to 4,000 ft.
Another flowering tree, common along Colombo roads is the Queen's flower, Lagerstroemia speciosa (muruta). The flowers of this small, untidy tree which grows wild up to altitudes of 2,000 ft. are mauve, or rarely, pink.
In the recent past, the quick-growing Tabebuias, especially the pinks, have found great favour as a flowering tree in towns. They are natives of Mexico. Tabebuia rosea is tall and bears an abundance of tubular flowers in various shades of pink; from February to April many roads and pavements of Colombo are carpeted with pink fallen flowers.
Tabebuia serratifolia is smaller and rarer. It thrives best at altitudes over 1,500 ft. The bright yellow flowers are seen at Peradeniya between December and March. Also at Peradeniya, especially from November to March, the graceful sprays of the vermillion and yellow flowers of Amherstia nobilis ("queen of flowering trees') are seen drooping from the branches. This native of Burma rarely thrives near the sea.
In addition to those of the ironwood tree, several other flowers are valued as temple offerings, mainly because of their fragrance.
The delicately-scented, 5-petalled, temple flower Plumeria spp. (araliya), is invariably grown in temples and gardens. Its flowers
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have colours ranging from pure white to yellow, orange and deep red. Plumeria is widespread in Asia. Its original home is believed to be South America. There is controversy on whether Plumeria was introduced by the Portuguese to Sri Lanka or whether it had been in the island earlier. Some of the flowers carried by the "Ladies of Sigiriya' bear a striking resemblance to it. If these are indeed temple flowers, the tree would have been introduced about 1,500 years ago from South America probably via China. There is, in fact, a Sanskrit name for the temple flower. The scented, gold and white, pin cushion-like flower of the leathery-leaved, tall, Sarcocephalus Cordatus (bakini) which grows in the wet as well as the dry zones, has the shape and size of a golf ball; it appears from April to June and is a popular temple offering. The fruit is edible. A fragrant flower also offered at temples is that of Horsfieldia iriyaghedi (ruk) which is found in Sri Lanka only. This flower, which appears from August to October, consists of a collection of small orange and green knobs on short stalks. The wood of this tall tree is used for making boats. V
Also erect and tall is the cannonball tree, Couroupita guianensis (sal), a native of tropical America. Invariably, one sees the large spherical rust-coloured fruits hanging from the trunk, hence the name. The fleshy pink and yellow scented flowers, prized as temple offerings, are always in bloom. The flowers of the yellow silk cotton tree, Cochlospermum religiosum (kinihiriya), which is planted in gardens and near temples, is also offered at temples. The large yellow, cup-shaped, scented flowers appear in February-April when the leaves are scanty. It is seen in gardens in Colombo.
To anyone interested in the dispersal of seeds by water, a rewarding experience would be to examine the seeds and fruits lying on the Island's seashore and to ascertain their origin. The largest of those found would be the coconut palm, Cocos nucifera (pol), mentioned in the Culavamsa. It is said that no part of this tree need be discarded as useless. While on the subject of palms as well as the Culavamsa, a digression from the seashore to the moist low country where the tallipot palm, Corypha umbraculifera (talgaha) grows, is perhaps, justifiable. This "most majestic and wonderful of the palm tribe' (Tennent) can grow up to 100 ft. At the age of about 25 years, it produces a single massive (over 5 ft long) flower. The appearance, about 2 months later, of the large, hard fruit, heralds the death of the tree. The large fan-like leaves at the crown of the palm have many applications. They are used for thatching houses, as fans and umbrellas, but, most important, they have, over the centuries, furnished the ancients with the olas ("parchment') for writing. A sharp metal stylus is used for writing on the specially prepared strips of the leaf; the application of a mixture of gum and "lamp black' obtained from cloth wicks burnt in coconut oil bring
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out the characters. The strips are perforated near the ends and bound into volumes "confined by boards' (Davy). The Culavamsa was written on ola and even today, in some parts of the Island, ola is used for recording horoscopes. Handsome specimens of the talipot palm can be seen at Peradeniya.
One of the unusual fruits found on the seashore is the quadrangular fibrous-covered fruit of Barringtonia acutangula (alamidella); this medium-sized tree grows near water and bears pendent clusters of pink and white ("painter's brush") flowers with long stamens. The characteristic "cricket ball' fruits of the poison nut, Cerbera manghas (gon-kaduru), when dry, readily float in water; its white, scented flowers and fruits are seen all the year round. The wood of this tree, which is abundant near water, is used for making masks and toys. The seed is poisonous.
The spherical water-dispersed fruit of the medium-sized tree, Thespesia populnea (suriya), is smaller. This tree is very common near lagoons and the sea shore; its tubular yellow flowers, fading to purple pink, appear throughout the year. The wood of Thespesia is believed to be immune to white ants and is used for boats and cartwheels.
The mahogany-coloured floating seed of the elephant climber, Entanda scandens (pus wal) is large, flat, like an overcoat button, and polished; it is used in hop-scotch by childern while adults make ornaments, charms and snuffboxes with it. This immense climber with twisted stems bears the largest pod known. "Great oaks from little acorns grow' goes the saying. Hence one should not be surprised to find that the diminutive 5-ribbed bead-shaped, floating seed of the scaly-barked Terminalia arjuna (kumbuk) gives rise to this noble tree. It "delights in the banks of rivers and moist borders of tanks and canals' (Tennent). In fact, one river of Sri Lanka, the Kumbukkan oya, derives its name from this tree which grows to great heights and can achieve a girth of 50 ft. The tree is also grown near wells to clear the water. Its honey-scented flowers are a favourite of bees.
A description of seeds dispersed by water would not be complete without reference to the boat-fruited mangrove, Heritiera littoralis (atuna), a medium-sized tree growing near the seashore and bearing greenish pink flowers. Its seed is a veritable boat, complete with keel; not surprisingly, when the seed drops into water it sails away.
There are, of course, numerous shrubs and herbaceous plants
in Sri Lanka which are attractive if only for the variety of colour found in their flowers. Two of the commonest are the wild sun
38

flower, Tithonia diversifolia (val suriya kantha) and Lantana camara (gandapana) both of which are widely distributed up to an altitude of about 5,000 ft., and flower throughout the year. In the case of Tithonia, which is never without flower, the name is apt for, in Greek mythology, Zeus conferred immortality on Tithonus ("Me only cruel immortality consumes"). While the flowers of Tithonia are orange-yellow, Lantana bears flowers whose colours range from white, mauve, pink to orange-red; the last is the commonest variety. Perhaps the most "exotic' of the wildflowers of the Island is of Gloriosa superba (niyangala) with its red and yellow crimped petals and pert stamens. This slender herbaceous plant of jungle and waste land, climbs by obtaining purchase on its sturdier neighbours by the tendrils at the end of its pointed leaves. The tubers of Gloriosa contain the poison, colchicine, which it shares with those of Colchicum autumnale of temperate climes.
The fruit of the large, white, trumpet-shaped flower of Datura fastuosa (attana), also contains a poison, atropine, which was apparently so popular with those infamous poisoners, the Borgias; understandably, the plant is called the "devil's trumpet'.
The herbaceous Martynia diandra (naga darana), growing wild in the jungles, has a mauve and pink flower resembling the foxglove. Its seed, as the Sinhala name implies, has a marked resemblance to the cobra's hood. The two curved fang-like spines at the end are not for instilling fear; they are merely nature's devices for dispersal as they hang on to the fur coat of animals. Also found in the jungles is the tenacious partial parasite Loranthus (pililla) related to the mistletoe. The bunches of the slender red and yellow flowers of the plant may puzzle the observer if the parasite is seen growing on another flowering tree.
On mossy moist banks of streams or ponds grows the delicate rock violet, Torenia leucosiphon (kota wall), the purple-petalled yellow-throated flowers of which are much admired; the rock violet is cultivated in gardens.
At all altitudes, orchids abound in Sri Lanka, unfortunately most of these produce flowers which are small and inconspicuous. Of those producing large flowers, the hardiest is the widespread Wanda tessellata which is often seen on trees of the forest as well as of the roadside, the peculiarity of this species is that different plants bear flowers of varying colours and shades. The colours range from pale yellow to rose-pink or mauve-purple; the mauve variety is, perhaps, the commonest. The flowers are delicately scented and, while the flowering season is from March to August, some flowers may be seen at most times of the year. The tiny waxy, white and purple flowers of the foxtail orchid, Rhynchostylis retusa, are closely packed fluffly on a long and hanging stalk; this accounts for
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its popular name. Perhaps the best known of the island's orchids is the violet-pink Vesak orchid, Dendrobium macarthiae, which is endemic to the Island. It requires a hot moist environment below 2,000 ft., thriving in the Ratnapura district. Its flowering commences in the Vesak month, May, hence the name, and goes on til July.
in addition to the coconut palm, Sri Lanka abounds in trees and plants which provide food in some form or other. Both the breadfruit, Artocarpus incisa (del), and the ubiquitous jak, Artocarpus integrifolia (kos), are mentioned in the ancient chronicles. In March-April the formidable prickly green-yellow (composite) fruits are unfailingly seen hanging from the trunk. The starchy inside of the fruit ("the largest eatable fruit in the world") is eaten boiled or allowed to ripen; ripe jak is one of the tastiest of fruits. It has been said that the jak fruit attracts all living things. The heartwood yields a yellow dye which is used for dyeing the robes of monks as well as mats.
The mango tree, Mangifera spp. (amba), is also widely distributed in the Island as the jak. There are many varieties of mango in Sri Lanka all producing delicious fruit (is mango the tastiest fruit in the world 2), but a large number of these have been introduced from the neighbouring sub-continent. In this account of the flora of Sri Lanka, the mango tree has been left to the last, though in fact, it is the first tree of Sri Lanka mentioned in the Mahavamsa.
When the Thera, Mahinda met King Devanampiyatissa in about 307 B.C. at the spot in Mihintale which came to be known as Ambastale (the plateau of the mango tree), the following dialogue, (probably the first recorded instance of administering the intelligence test), wherein the Thera tests the perspicacity of the King, occurred:
"What name does this tree bear, O king ?" This tree is called a mango." is there yet another mango beside this ?" There are many mango-trees.' "And are there yet other trees besides this mango and the other mangoes ? There are many trees, sir; but those are trees that are not mangoes.” "And are there, beside the mangoes and those trees which are not mangoes, yet other trees 2" "There is this mango-tree sir."
Surely, some of the mango trees at Mihintale today are descendants of this very mango tree?
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CHAPTER 27
King Coconut
THE coconut palm, with its slender ash-grey trunk sweeping high into the sky, crowned with a frond of fan-like waving leaves, is one of the most distinctive features of Sri Lanka's landscape. This remarkable palm has been grown here from the time of the Sinhala kings. It grows best on sandy soil near the sea, but also thrives inland at elevations of up to about 1,600 feet.
It certainly lends enchantment to the natural beauty along the sweeping coastal regions and in the midst of small valleys, hillocks and farm holdings inland.
In every sense of the word the coconut palm is the fairy godmother of the inhabitants of this country. It can be truthfully said that no single plant gives so much to man in such a variety of ways.
Let us take a look at the hut of a villager. Skilfully woven dried coconut leaves serve as a roof-call it thatch or cadjan-yet it is cool and rain-proof. The main spar of the little verandah and its supports are of coconut wood and so are the rafters. The modest fencing around the hut, too, is of dried coconut branches.
In the kitchens of village homes and the mansions of the city are utensils made of coconut shells, their designs unchanged through centuries. The village hearths are kept burning with coconut shells, dried coconut leaves, branches and withered sheaths of the coconut flower. Mats and baskets are also woven with coconut
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leaves and the mid-rib, the ekel, tied into little bundles or fashioned into brooms to sweep gardens.
Coconut wood is used to make furniture and the thicker portion of the coconut branch, the pol-piththa-used as a village bat. The young leaves, gokkola, pale yellow and pliant are used in weaving exquisite traditional forms and shapes to be used as ephemeral decor at ceremonials, weddings and other occasions, adding a characteristic Ceylonese touch to the setting.
The coconut palm sways supreme as a source of food and drink. The bud at the top of the stem-the bada-is delicious when made into a pickle. The pith of a coconut seedling, pela pihi, is a much sought after thirst-quencher. The younger fruits, kurumba and thambili, provide a refreshing, cool, delightful drink. The kernel of matured nuts are grated and the milk expressed, used as a medium in which almost all the tasty Sinhala curries are cooked. Coconut scrapings are made into a pol sambol, a hot appetiser and a palatable gravy called a pol-hodda, is made from spiced coconut milk.
Toddy tapped from the coconut flower is made into treacle or jaggery, a coarse brown candy. Vinegar is a by-product of toddy. From toddy is also distilled the national drink of the Island-Arrack. But toddy itself is an invigorating drink very popular along the South west coast.
The dried kernel of the coconut-copra-is finely grated and marketed as desiccated coconut which is used extensively in confectionery and cooking, mainly abroad. From copra is extracted coconut oil, used in the Island as a cooking fat and in the manufacture of soap, margarine and hair dressings, among other things. After the oil is extracted, the residue, poonac, is used as an animal food.
Along the south coast of the Island, cottagers leave the fibrous husk to soak in pits. Later, they are beaten to extract the fibrecoir. The coir is either spun into ropes or made into doormats, brooms, brushes and a number of other utility articles, which are now used the world over.
Flowery fannings and orange pekoe
TEA, which is now almost Sri Lanka's second nature, came to this island only as a second thought to coffee. The coffee disease Hemilea vastatrix deserved the grim sobriquet it earned; in an age when agro-chemicals were unknown "Devastating Emily' swept the plantations like a forest fire. Ruined, but nothing daunted and as resilient as the green bay tree, the British planters raised
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another fragrant beverage on the blighted acres. Impressed by recovery, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle called tea "one of the greatest commercial victories which pluck and ingenuity ever won'. "The tea-fields of Ceylon', he wrote, "are as true a monument to courage as is the lion of Waterloo.'
James Taylor pioneered commercial tea-growing in Sri Lanka on remote and lovely Loolecondera. Like his sturdy mother-bushes, tea has survived a hundred years and many sore trials, among them blister blight, tea tortrix and price-slumps. Supplanting Coffee with tea seemed at the time an obvious choice; it has also proved a wise one. Tea is the Island's main export today and with a daily output of more than a million pounds, Sri Lanka is one of the world's leading producers.
A tree camelia, tea needs a sub-tropical climate and sloping terrain. Mutations in flavour and "liquoring' properties record nuances in altitude, soil, rain and sun, and tea, like whisky, varies from glen to glen. The Turkish-bath weather of the foothills and mid-country of Sri Lanka gives a heavy 'flush" of leaves, but diffuses flavour. These low and medium-grown teas are useful, in the jargon of the trade, as fillers in blends. In the high sierra, brilliant sunshine, cold nights and the nursing of mists retard growth but conserve flavour in the leaf. These are the aromatic "high-growns' which have spread Sri Lanka's fame in the auction rooms of Mincing Lane.
One may just unrolla leaf from the bottom of the tea-pot, and as John Still did, dwell on the dramatic beauty of Sri Lanka's tea lands. Cloud-capped mountains, deep valleys and yawning chasms, peace, pure, cold, mentholated air, and never far away the music of falling water. Silvery grevillea, silky oaks, gliricidia and gums planted for shade and wind-break and drifts of wildflowers that defy the most determined of weeders. Neat tricky-tacky processing factories which give out such a prodigious fragrance from the toasting leaves that you would think it was tea-time in Brobding nag. And stretching endlessly, the green shrubbery, contoured carefully to valley and spur.
Tea is grown from seed or from cuttings made from pedigree mother-bushes, and is contour-planted on slopes to anchor the topsoil. Pruning stunts the growth to a workable height for manual picking. The tender terminal shoots are picked in a ten-day rotation, generally by women pickers, who with their bright sarees and shoulder baskets have become a kind of totem of the tea trade.
The whole work force from superintendent (often known as Peria Dorai, Tamil for Big Boss) to "pluckers' live in, the former
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in pretty chalets with bow windows and fireplaces, and gardens where gloriosa superba and orchids riot in a horticultural melee that includes California poppies, Sweet-peas and Canterbury bells.
The curing of green leaf into black tea, although basically a simple process, is a tricky and precise art; the quality of the made tea finally depends on the expertise of the "teamaker', a skilled craftsman much like a master-brewer.
in the first stage of processing, the leaf is desiccated and comes out of drying racks looking like green, oiled silk. The leaf is then passed through rollers and broken up to release the aromatic juices. Oxygen combines with these juices to change the leaf chemically. This process is continued in the damp cool air of the fermentation room. A colour change from green into bright copper completes the process. The final stage of manufacture is 'firing', which must be precisely timed to arrest further oxidization by baking the tea evenly. Black, fragrant, reduced to a fourth of its original bulk, and at last recognisable as the grocer's commodity, the tea is now sifted and graded by size into leaf and broken grades, fannings and dust, and by quality into categories with whimsical names such as Pekoe, Orange Pekoe, Pekoe Souchong, Tippy and Flowery. Samples are tasted and buyers make offers at the auctions on these reports. Teas are labelled in the jargon of the taster, into pungent, malty, pointy, bakey, thick, coppery, dull or bright, according to flavour and infusion properties. But whatever the tasters say, the planters of Uva, Dimbula and Nuwara Eliya call their teas liquid gold; one wonders sometimes, "what they, like the vintners of the Rubaiyat-buy, one half as precious as the stuff they sell.
$...... Tea, any apprentice (creeper) planter will tell you, is hygroscopic: another of its qualities is surely that it is highly impressionable. Many different peoples have adopted tea as their own and have a characteristic way of drinking it. The Chinese (who started it all) drink it green: the rest of the world largely prefers black, Russians pour it out of samovars and drink from glasses; the Japanese with exquisite ceremony; Americans with ice and lemon and Tibetans withyakbutter. Arabs add mint and Australians brew it in billies and drink in quantities. The Burmese make tea into salads, Canadians dunk biscuits in it and the Ceylonese villager, disdaining sugar, takes his ginger-flavoured tea with a delectable palm candy called jaggery.
29. But the most inveterate tea-drinkers in the world are of course the British, who have taken tea into their bosom and made it a national beverage. "A nation of tannin addicts,' sneered a German general in the Second World War, 'England can be successfully invaded any day at around 4 o'clock in the afternoon."
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The delightful domestic ritual known as "afternoon tea', is wholly an Anglo-Saxon invention, to be taken in the garden in summer, at the fireside in winter with scones and crumpets and, north of the border, with shortbread and bannocks. To be poured out of Wedgwood Jasper tea-pots and drunk out of cups commemorating royal jubilees, coronations and investitures. , ; ) {
English literature naturally teems with references to this very English meal. Sairey Gamp, Mrs. Quilp, Fanny Squeers, Alice and the Mad Hatter, Jane Eyre and Fairfax Rochester and the nameless heroine of "Rebecca' all sit down to tea and establish their nationality, beyond any doubt. And Rupert Brooke, forever English even "in a corner of some foreign field' homesick for Granchester, naturally asks:
"Stands the church clock at ten to three
And is there honey still for teap"
The weeping wood
RUBBER is the middle name in Sri Lanka's three-commodity export formula. It comes next to tea, but before coconut, both in value as well as in its geographical distribution, favouring the fecund and rainy mid-country river valleys and foothills of southwestern Sri Lanka.
The commercial cultivation of rubber had a colourful beginning. The first rubber seedlings were nursed in London's Kew Gardens, raised from the 700,000 seeds pirated from the Amazon by Sir Henry Wickham. Lanka's first rubber nursery of 2,000 plants was established in 1876 at the Heneratgoda Botanical Gardens, 9 miles from Colombo. The great-grandmother-tree of Lanka is still alive and well, as is a grove of the first trees at the Royal Botanical Gardens at Peradeniya.
The trees flourished, but for 20 years more, the commercial prospects of rubber remained uncertain. In 1899, however, a team from the two Botanical Gardens headed by Parkham developed the method of tapping the trees to obtain a profitable yield of latex, and rubber bounced into second place on the Island's commodity export tables. From the original 1,000 acres in 1898, rubber now covers around 600,000 acres mainly in the Sabaragamuwa province and the valleys of the Kelani River and Kalu Ganga. More than half the total rubber acreage is owned and worked as small-holdings.
Hevea brasiliensis is a graceful tree, the tropical double of the silver birch, with slim silver-barked trunk and retrousse branches.
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The trees, which can be raised from seed or from pedigree highyielding clones, are planted in formal rows, and form cool green archways over the rough estate tracks that thread them.
Trees are tapped, at five to six years of age when the trunk shows a girth of 24 inches, two feet from the ground. The latex yield increases steadily for the next five to ten years and maintains stable level till the tree is milked dry at the end of its span of 35 years. Dry trees are felled for firewood.
Trees are tapped by the first light of day as the flow of latex slackens as soon as the sun is up. Tappers, (both men and women) use a special forked knife to shave a thin sliver of bark off the lower side of the slanting cut made on the tree trunk. Trees are tapped every second or third day, for 0 to il months in the year and rested in February, which is a rainless month. The trees shed their leaves during this period and tapping re-commences when the trees show the pale green of their feathery new foliage.
The milky latex drains from the raw edge of the cut into a container-usually half a coconut shell-anchored to the trunk of the tree. A skilled tapper can work 200 to 250 trees in a morning. The collected latex looks like dirty milk when it arrives at the factory for processing. After straining through sieves the latex is poured into large, shallow pans for coagulation, which is hastened by the addition of acetic acid. The latex which jells overnight into white slabs, is then pressed through rollers to squeeze out moisture, washed, air-dried and smoked to coat the sheet with a protective cover against mould. The deep amber, smoked sheets have a smell which is a cross between kippers and mild-cured bacon.
The processing of crepe rubber differs slightly. The latex is coagulated in bulk, rolled into bands and dried; the finished product hooking like beginners-lace.
Sri Lanka and Malaysia together produce over 70 per cent of the world's supply of natural rubber, thus displacing Brazil, the original producer. ۔۔۔۔
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CHAPTER 28
AHANGAMA (10 m from
Galle).
Kataluwa Youth Hostel, Atadahewatte Walauwa, Kataluwa (200 yds. from main Galle-Matara bus route) (8 beds).
AKURESSA
Akuressa R H ; On GalleDeniyaya road 23 m from Galle, 98 m from Colombo (3 r). Phone : Akuressa 89.
Estate Bungalows
Kalukande Estate, Akuressa : Elevation 00” Tel. Akuressa 37. Contact Tel. Colombo 84244 (2 r).
Kandahena Estate, Akuressa : Elevation 700' Contact Tel. Colombo 29474 (4 r).
CB (Government Agent,
Matara) (3 r).
ALLA CB Allai Camp (2 r), (TCEO). ALUTN UWARA C B (5 r) (TCEO). AMADUVWA
See under RUHUNU NATIONAL PARK
Where to stay
AMBALANGODA
R H, Ambalangoda. Phone : 097-299 Ambalangoda (6 r).
* Brooklyn,' New Galle Road, Ambalangoda. 52 m Colombo. Contact: 07767.
AMBERPUSSA
R H (36 m from Colombo). Phone: Warakapola 544. Contact Phone : Colombo 23504 (8 r).
AMBEWE LA
CB (National Milk Board) (4r). ContactPhone: 85.49.
AN1PARA
Amparai R H : 184 m from Colombo (l 2 r) Tal. Amparai 220.
°′′′) (3 r) maha oyn
Road, half mile from town, AN URADHAPURA Hotels Miridiya Hotel, Row Club R o a d, Anv | .1 || Apura, Phone : Anu radhapura 22 (65 r). Samara Hotel, Rowing
Club Road, Anuradhapura ( I r),
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Tissawewa Hotel. Phone: Anuradhapura 522. Contact Phone : Colombo 83133 (25 r).
Rest House
Nuwarawewa R H, New Town. Phone : Anuradhapura 565. Contact Phone : Colombo 83133 (35 r).
Circuit Bungalows (TCEO)-(4 r.) Anuradhapura Preservation
Board-(4 r.) Land Development Depart
ment-(4 r.) CEB (Nuwara Wewa)—(3 r.) Archaeological Department (2 Bungalows)-(3 reach.) Dept. of Water Supply &
Drainage-(2 r.)
Youth Hostel Youth Hostel, Traveller's Halt, 5, Jaffna Junction. Tel. Anuradhapura 290 (15 beds). Railway Retiring Rooms Railway Station, Anuradhapura-(I3 r) Phone : 35838. Pilgrims' Rests Dutugemunu Pilgrims' Rest (28 r) and hall for 200 to 300 persons. Bastian Hall. Sun hatha, Mihintale St. Junc
tion. Pilgrims' Rest, Harischandra
Road, Anu radhapura.
ARUGAM BAY
Arugam Bay RH: On the coast 3/4 m south of Pottuvil 196 m from Colombo. (5 r) Tel. Pottuvi O.
C B (TCEO)-4 r.
CB-rrigation Department
(2 r).
AVISSAVVELLA R H (35 m from Colombo),
(6r) Tel. 0362-299. C B, Salawa-Ceylon Plywoods Corporation (r). Boy Scout Hostel-Contact
Phone : 333.
AYAGAMA C B (2 r) G.A., Ratnapura.
BADULLA Badulla R H : In the heart of the town. !43 m frוחסי
328
Colombo. Tel. Badulla 277.
Youth Hostel Y.M.C.A., 9, Bandarawela
Road, (5 beds).
BAD URELIYA C B (2 r) G.A., Kalutara.
BALANCODA
R H : On the RatnapuraBelihuloya Road 90 m from Colombo (6 r) Tel. Balangoda 620.
Estate Bungalows Keppoch Estate, Balangoda : Elevation ,700' Contact Colombo 23733 (2 r). Circuit Bungalow Irrigation Department-(3 r.)
BANDARAWELA
Hotels
Bandarawela Hotel. Phone : Bandarawela : 501 (36 r) Colombo 295.
Orient Tourist inns, 0 Dharmapala M a v a t h a. Phone : Bandarawella 407 (35 r).
ideal Resort, Weimada Road. Phone : Bandarawella 476. Contact Phone: Colombo 86055 (6 r).
Grand Hotel, Poonagala Road
Phone : Bandarawella 402.
Youth Hostel Y.W.C.A. Holiday Home, Senanayake Mavatha (near Bandarawela railway station)
2 beds. Circuit Bungalow C B—(TCEO) (3 r).
BATTULUoYA C B-Puttalam-(3 r.) G.A.,
BATTCALOA
Hotel Orient, 87, Trincomalee Road. Phone : Batticaloa 270 (12 r).
Batticaloa R H : Near the Fort, 84 m south of Trincomalee, 262 m from Colombo. (7r) Tel. Batticaloa 310.
C B-(TCEO) (I r).
BELIH U LOYA -
R H-Phone: Belihulоуа 2. Contact Phone : Colombo 23504 (Il r).

BENTOTA Hotels Bentota Beach Hotel. Phone :
Bentota 26. (66 r.).
Lihiniya Surf Hotel. Phone :
Bentota 226 (40 r)
Serendib Hotel. Phone :
Bentota 248 (5 r).
“ Brief', Bentota. Chalet & Guesthouse. Bookings: Bawa, “ Brief”, Bentota.
*Ceysands Hotel (40 r).
BERUVAVELA
Barberyn Reef Hotel, Beru
wela (30 r)
Confifi Beach Hotel. Contact Phone : Colombo 94.444 (60 r) Phone. Beruwela 07.
Hotel Swanee, (40 r).
BBE Bibile R H : On the right of the Badulla-Chenkaladi road, 36 m from Badulla, 80 m from Colombo. (3r) Tel. Bibile 28. BOGAVWVANTALAWA Bogawantalawa R H : 90 m
from Colombo (3r). BOLGODA San Michele Island (3 r) Coa
tact: Phone : 2562. BULUTOTA C B-(TCEO) (3 r.). CASTLEREAGH C B-(CEB) (4 r).
CHAVAKACHCHER
Chavakachcheri R H : On the Elephant Pass-Jaffna Road, 10 m from Jaffna, 238 m from Colombo. (4r) Tel. Chavakachcheri 37.
CHANDRE KAWEVWA C B-Survey Department
(2 r). CB (14th mile on NonagamaEmbilipitiya road) (Land Development Dept.) (2 r). CHLAVW
Chilaw R H : 50 m from Colombo. (8 r) Tel. Chi
aw S5.
CB-GA., Puttalam-(2r). *Ranweli Hotel (50 r).
CHINA BAY
See under TRINCOMALEE
CHUN NAKAM C B-(CEB) (3 r).
COOMBO
Holiday inn, Sir Mohamed Macan Makar Mawata, Colombo 2. (88 r). Phone : 2200.
Cinnamon Gardens Inn. (5 r)
Phone : 92.987.
Ceylinco Hotel, Queen Street Fort. (4r): Phone 2043.
*Eros Beach, Hendala (50 r).
Galle Face Hotel, Galle Face.
(56 r) Phone: 282.
Greenlands Hotel (vegetarian), 3A, Shrubbery Gardens, Colombo 4. (I6 r) Phone: 81986, 85592.
Harendra Hotel, 8, 42nd Lane, Colombo 6. (49 r) Phone: 8343.
Havelock Tourinn, 20, Dickman’s Road, Colombo 5. (34 r) Phone: 8525.
Hotel Samudra, 25, Galle Face Centre Road. (Or) Phone : 3662.
Hotel Taprobane, Bank of Ceylon Building, York Street, Fort. (6} r) Phone : 2039.
Pegasus Reef Hotel, Santha Maria Mavatha, Hendala, Wattala. (l44 r) Phone : O70-205.
HotelCeylon inter-Continental
48, Janadhipathi Mavatha (former Queen Street) (252 r) Phone : 28188.
Hotel Lanka Oberoi, Galle Road, Colombo 3. (266 r) Phone: 2000,
Hotel Renuka, 328, Gale Road, Colombo 3. (44 r) Phone: 2690 (5 lines).
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Europa House, Galle Road, Bambalapitiya. Phone : 8322.
*Sapphire Hotel, Galle Road,
Colombo 6 (40 r).
Sea View Hotel, 5, Sea View Avenue, Colombo 3. (23r) Phone : 2656.
Tropical Gardens Inn, (10 r)
Phone : 94528.
Abbotsleigh Tourist Court, 39, Horton Place, Colombo 7. Phone : 918! ! (3 r).
Ceylon Inns Guest House, 50/A, Galle Road, Colombo 6. Phone: 82.388, 82489. (36 r).
Colombo Guesthouse, 5, Bawa Place, Colombo 8. Phone : 96592, 9 1867 (6 r). Colombo Tours Guesthouse, 45, Galle Road, Colombo 6. Phone : 88856 (10 r). Dehiwala Zoo Guesthouse(r) for foreignguests of Zoo. Elephant Walk, 40, Galle Road, Colombo 4. Phone : 8567 (18 r). Green Pastures, 67, Castle Street, Colombo 8. Phone: 94024 (8 r). Lakna Inns. Phone : 84220
(20 r). Lake lodge, 20, Alvis Terrace,
of Alvis Place, Colombo 3.
Phone : 26443 (16 r).
Orchid Guesthouse, l0, Torrington Place, Colombo 7. Phone : 95568 (!0 r). Park Rest Guesthouse, 40/8, Park Road, Havelock Town, Colombo 5. Phone : 8446 (14 r). Raj Neh Lank Inn, 16/4, Alfred Place, Colombo 3. Phone : 22583 (25 r). 'Sesatha Tourist Gues to house, 236, Havelock Road, Colombo 5. Phone : 84.698 ( 1 r). Smiths, 36, Galle Face Court 2, Colombo 3. Phone : 2739 (7 r). World Trade and Tourist Centre, 237, Galle Road,
330
Colombo 4. Phone: 83372, 83345 (12 r.).
Sri Lanka Ex-Servicemen’s Institute, Bristol Street, Colombo 1.-2D/R. Scabins 3 dormitories. Phone : 22650,
Youth Hostels international Youth Centre & Hostel, 26/2, Waidya Road, Dehiwala. Phone : O7405. Boy Scout Hostel, 3, 5 , Lower Lake Road, Colombo 3. Phone : 333 (6 beds). Girl Guide Headquarters Hostel, No. 10, Sir Marcus Fernando Mavatha, Colombo 7. (4 beds). Phone : 95.720. Youth Council Hostel, 30, Elibank Road, Coombo 5. Phone: 8028 (National Headquarters) (30 beds). Ramakrishna Madam, Ramakrishna Road, Colombo 6. Phone: 88253 (5 rooms). Y.M.C.A., 39, Bristol Street, Fort, Colombo I. Phone : 25252. (58 beds). Y.W.C.A., “St. James', Union Place, Colombo 2. Phone : 24694.
DAMBANA C B-(G.A., Badulla) (2 r).
DAMBULLA R H : On Matale-Trincomalee Road, 93 m from Colombo. Phone : Dambula 9 Contact Phone : Colombo 2350 (4 r).
DELT Delft Madam (r) G.A., Jaffna.
DELTOTA Pattiagama Estate, Deltota. Elevation 3,500). Phone: alaha 58. Contact Phone: Colombo 25474 (4 r).
DENYAYA
Deniyaya R H : On the Akuressa-Deniyaya road, 27 m from Akuressa, 24 m from Colombo. (5 r) Phone Deniyaya 233.
C B-(G.A., Matara)-(5 r).

DIKOYA
Upper Glencairn Guesthouse. Phone : 052-348. Colombo 917 (5 r).
DIYATAAVAVA
St. lves Guesthouse, Old Boer
Road, (3r).
CB (2 bungalows) (Survey Department) (3 r each). Phone : Diyatalawa 270.
ELAHERA Greenwoods Guesthouse, All
kandewatte. (3 r). ELEPHANT PASS Elephant Pass R H : On Vavuniya-Jaffna Road, 32 m from Jaffna, 26 m from Colombo. (3r). Phone: Elephant Pass 3. CB-Salt Corp. (3r).
ELKADUVWA Hunas Falls Hotel-See under
KANDY. E.L.A Ella R H. On BandaravelaNamunukula road, 7 1/2 m from Bandarawela, 34 m from Colombo. Phone: Ella 806. (Elevation 3,320). Contact Colombo. Phone : 23504 (6 r). EMBLIPITIYA CB-(G.A., Ratnapura)-(3 r). CB-(River Valleys Develop
ment Board)-(4 r). • C B-(TCEO) 4r (6th mile on Kolonne-Panamure road). ERAEBEODA CB-(Forest Department)-
(2 r). GALAGEDERA Halgola Estate, Galagedera Elevation 900). Phone :
alagedera 805. (2 r). GAGAM UWA Galgamuwa R H : On the left of Galgamuwa-Polpiti
gama - road, 27 m from
Anuradhapura, 99 m from
Colombo. Phone : Gal
gamuwa 6 (3 r). C B-(TCEO) ( r). GALLELA See under POLONNARUWA GALLE
C B-Fishery Harbours Cor
poration, Galle-(3 r).
Closenberg Hotel, Magalle, Gale. Phone : 09-3073 (8 r).
C B-Cement Corporation (3 r). Phone : 09-2650.
Harbour inn (4r). Phone :
2350. Colombo.
New Oriental Hotel, O,
Church Street, Phone : 092059 (24 r).
Railway Retiring Rooms (r) Galle Railway Station. ContactPhone : 35838.
Sydney Hotel, Galle. Phone :
09-3006.
Y.M.C.A., Peddar Street, Fort
(2 beds).
GAL OYA SANCTUARY See under INGINYAGALA
GAMPAHA
Gampaha R H : Near Gampaha railway station 9 m from Colombo (4 r). Phone : 033-22.99.
GAMPOLA
Gampola R H : On GampolaNawalapitiya road, opposite Gampola railway station 8 m from Kandy, 76 m from Colombo. (6 r). Phone : Gampola 356
GRAE Hotel Hemalee (0 r). CB-rrigation Department
(3 r). Camping and Caravan Site (Ceylon Tourist Board). *Giritale Hotel (50 r).
GURULUPOTA
C B-(Land Development Department) (4r) 6 m from Mahiyangana.
HABARANA
Habarana R. H. Phone : Habarana 4. Contact Phone : Colombo 23504 (5 r).
Habarana Walk Inn (60 cot
tages). Phone: 29752.
HAKGALA
Meena Ella Estate Bungalow, Opposite Botanical Gardens' Hakgala. (Elevation 6,000) Contact Phone : Colombo 31794. (2 r).
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HANM BANTOTA
Hambantota R H. 48 m from Colombo, Phone : 0472-299 (5 r).
CB-(Forest Department)-
(2 r). CB-(Salt Corporation)-
(3 r). HAMBEGAM UVAVA C B-(Irrigation Dept.)-
(3 r). HANGURANKETA Hanguranketa R H. Phone :
Hanguranketa 3. (3 r).
HAN WELLA Hanwella R H. On ColomboHanwela road 8 m from Colombo. Phone : Hanwella 2 Contact Phone : 2350 (3 r). HAPUTABLE Monamaya Holidays. Phone :
Haputale 27 II (6 r). Hಣ್ಣ: R H : (Elevation ,698"). On ColomboBandarawela road, 2 m from Colombo (6 r). Phone: Haputale 257. CB-Forest Dept. (Sr). HASALAKA CB-(Irrigation Dept.) 3 r. HETTPOLA Hettipola R H : On the Chilaw-Wariyapola r o a d 20 m from Chilaw, 62 m from Colombo (2 r).
HKKADUVVA Coral Gardens Hotel. 6 1/2 m from Colombo. Phone :
Hikkaduwa 891. (45 r).
Blue Corals Hotel, 322, Galle Road, Hikkaduwa. Contact Phone : Moratuwa 575 ፪) Phone : Hikkaduwa
9
Coral Reef Beach Hotel (2 r).
Beach Hotel, Galle Road. Phone : Hikkaduwa 803.
*Coral Rock Hotel, (30 r).
HNGURAKGODA Hingurakgoda R 'H : i26 m from Colombo (4 r). Phone : Hingurakgoda 515. HNIDUMA Hiniduma R H : 20 m from Galle-Deniyaya road, turn of 8 1/2 m from Akuressa, 24 m from Colombo. (2 r)
332
HRPTIYA Hiripitiya R H : On Wariyapola-Hiripitiya road, 9 m from Wariyapola, 79 m from Colombo. (2 r). Phone: Nikadalu potha 7. HIRIYALA CB, Halewatenne O y a
(TCEO)-(I room). HONMAGANMA Homagama RH : /4 mile of Colombo-Avissawela high level road, 15 m from Colombo. (3r). Phone : O793-270. HORANA Horana R H. Phone : Horana
30 I. (7 r). HOROVWAPOTANA Horowapotana R H : On Anuradhapura-Trincomalee road, 34 m from Anuradhapura, 32 m from Trincomalee, 30 m from Colombo. (4r). Phone: Horowapotana 4. HORTON PLANS Farr inn. Phone : Nuwara Eliya 0522-426 Contact Phone : Colombo 88379 (7 r). Anderson Cottage, Department of Wild Life Conservation (3r). Contact Phone 94.653.
- URULUWEVWA C B-(Irrigation department).
NGINYAGALA inginiyagala R H. Phone :
Amparai 6. (I8 r). Ekgal Aru Bungalow, Department of Wild Life Conservation (3r). Contact Phone: 94.653. C B-(RVDB) (5 r). C B-(TCEO) (4 r). JA-ELA Ja-Ela R H : On ColomboNegombo road, 12 m from Colombo, !0 וח from Negombo (5 r) Phone : O76-397. JAFFNA Palm Court, 202, Main Street. Phone: Jafna 628. (16 r). Subhas Tourist Hotel Victoria Road. Phone : Jafna 7228 (33 r). Palm Beach, Valalai, Atchuveli. Phone : Jafna 628. (5 r).

Jaffna R H : Near the Jaffna Fort, 253 m from Colombo. (5 r). Phone : Jafna 353. CB-(Forest Department).
r). Railway Retiring Rooms (7 r). Jaffna ra i l w ay station. Phone : 35838. Y.M.C.A. Opposite Kachcheri, Jafna. Phone: Jafna 75! (0 beds). Blue Ribbon, Nallur Road.
Tel. Jaffna 778. C B-(TCEO). KEBTGOLLEVWA Kebitigol lewa R H : 2 l m from Anuradhapura (2 r).
KADUGANNAWA
Kadugannawa R H : 62 m from Colombo, beside the monument at the top of Kadugannawa Pass. (3 r) Phone : Kadugannawa 236.
KAHATAGASDGLIYA Kahatagasdigiliya R H : On Anuradhapura - Trincomalee road. 43 m from Colombo (2 r). Phone : Kahatagasdigiliya 804. KAHADUWA Rekadahena Estate, Kahaduwa: (Elevation 100) Phone: Talgaswela 4 (I room).
KALAM ETYA
CB off Hungama-Fisheries Corporation-(3r). Contact Phone : 3645.
KALAVAVANA C B—(TCEO)-(2 r). KALAWEVWA CB-(Irrigation Department)
(3 r). CB-(MDB)-(3 r) 10 m from
Kekirawa.
KALKUDAH
Kalkudah R H : On the seashore near the jetty, 20 m from Batticaloa. (4 r). Phone : Kalkudah 2.
*Imperial Ocean. (60 r)
KALMUNA
Kalmunai R H : On the coast 3/4 m from the main road, 24 m south of Batti. caloa (5 r). Phone : Kalmunai 352.
KALPTYA
Kalpitiya R H : 25 m to the north of Palawi and 29 m from Puttalam, 103 m from Colombo. (3r). Phone: Kalpitiya 3.
KALUTARA
Samanpaya Guesthouse. Contact Phone : Mount Lavinia 071-7174 (5 rooms).
Kalutara R H : On the right of Colombo-Galle Road, 26m from Colombo, 46 m from Galle (6 r) Phone: 0422299.
KAN OAKETYA
CB irrigation Department. Near Mahiyangana-(2 r). 23 m from Badulla.
KAN DE EA CB Irrigation Department
(3 r). ΚΑΝΕΣΥ Chalet Guesthouse, 32, Gregory's Road, Phone: 08-4353 (22 r). *Dehigama Hotel, Kandy.
(30 r). Hotel Suisse, Victoria Drive.
Phone : 08-2637 (60 r). Hunas Falls Hotel, Hunasgeria
Group, Elkaduwa. (16 m from Kandy) Phone: Elka
du wa 802. Contact Phone : Colombo 2.945 (2l r) .
Lady Hill Tourist Hotel, Dangolla, Kandy. Phone : 08-2659. (14 r). Peak View, Hotel, Lady Anderson Rd., Kandy. Phone : Kandy 4241 (10 r). Queen's Hotel, Dalada Vidiya.
(85 r) Phone : 08-2121. Old Empire Hotel, Contact
Phone : 3760. Castle Hotel. Phone : 08
4888. Castle Hill, 22, Gregory's Road. Phone : 08-4376 (4r). Contact Phone : 34664. Frangipani Tourist Hotel, 30, Ampitiya Road, Kandy. Phone : 08-4262. (10 r). Graylands, Lady Blake's Drive.
Phone : 08-4205. (5 r).
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Kandy Tourinn, 7, Sanghamitta Road, Kandy. Phone: 08-2790. Contact Phone : Colombo 8525i (30 r).
Windy Cot, 66, Riverdale Road, Anniewatte, Kandy. Phone : 08-2052 (30 r).
Peradeniya R. H. Phone : 08
8299 (6 r).
Youth Hostes Boy Scout Headquarters
Hostel, Bogambara. (4 beds).
Travellers' Halt, 53/4, Siyambalagastenne, Kan dy. (2 1/2 m from Kandy) (22 beds).
Y.M.C.A., 90, Kotugodella Vidiya, Kandy. Phone : 08-3529 (32 beds). Youth Hostel, Trinity College,
Kandy. C B-(L and Development Dept.)-Lady Gordon's Drive (3r). Railway Retiring Rooms (6 r). Kandy railway station. Contact Phone: 35838. C B, Peradeniya Gardens (Department of Agriculture). CB-Pallekelle (State Plant
ations Corp.) CB-Peradeniya. (Univer
sity of Ceylon) (4 r). CB-Polgola (4 m from
Kandy) (MDB) (3 r). C B, 6 Malabar Street, Kandy
(TCEO)-(3 r). KANELYA C B-(Ceylon Plywoods Cor
poration)–(6 r). KAN KESANTURA Kankesanturai R H : On the north coast, m north of Jaffna, 263 m from Colombo. (6 r) Phone : Kankesanturai 36. CB-Cement Corporation
(7 r). KANTALAi s Kantalai R H : Phone : Kantalai 808. Contact Phone: Colombo 23504 (5 r). CB near bund (TCEO) ( r). KARAWA CB (Forest Department)-
2 r).
334
CB-(Irrigation Department) Sella Kataragama Road(2 r).
KAYTS Kayts R H : 14 m from Jafna,
near the ferry (2 r).
KATARAGAMA Ceylon Tourist Board RH (45 r). Contact Phone : 395. Ceylon Transport Board Bungalow (2r). Contact Phone : Colombo 837. CB-G.A., Moneragala
(2 r). C B Land Development De
partment. (4 r). Ramakrishna Mission Madarn. Pilgrims' Rest (Town and Country Planning Department). CB-Archaeological Depart
ment (4 r). CB-Sella Kataragama (Dept. of Water Supply & Drainage) (r). YMBA Pilgrims' Rest.
KAT . ΝΑΥΑΚΕ *Orient Pearl Hotel, Katu
nayake (30 r).
| KEGALLA
Kegala RH-Phone : Kegala
30 I (5 r).
KLINO CHICH CB-(Irrigation Department)
(2 r).
KRINDA
C B-(G. A., Hambantota)
(2 r).
KTU ILGALA
Kitulgala R H-Phone : Kitulgala 28. Contact Phone: Colombo 23504 (4 r).
KOGGALA *Koggala Beach Hotel (60 r).
KOS-ANDA
Koslanda R H : 8 m from Colombo (2 r) Phone : Koslanda Si 5.
KUCHCHIAVEL
Kuchchaveti R H : On th east coast, 2 m north Trincomalee, (3 r). Phor : Kuchchaveli 2.

KULYAPITYA Kuliyapitiya R H : Phone :
Küliyapitiya 293. (4 r). KURUNEGALA Kuru negala RH : Phone :
Kurunegala 274 (!0 r).
CB-(TCEO), Kandy Road
(2 r). LAXAPANA C A (4 r). LYANGOLIA C B-(TCEO)-(l r).
LU NAVWA Lunawa R H : On the coast 3/4 mile to right of Colombo-Panadura road, 2 m from Colombo. (9 r) Phone : O72-584. UN VWA CB-Coconut Research Insti
tute-(3 r). LLUN UGALA Lunugala R H : One PassaraChenkaladi road, 3 m from Passara, 69 m from Chenkaladi 62 m from Colombo (3 r). Phone: Lunugala 805.
MADAVAVACHCHYA Madawachchiya R H : Phone Madawachchiya, 805. Contact Phone : Cplombo 23504 (4 r). MADU GODA Madugoda R H : Elevation 2,595, On TeldeniyaWeragantota road. 3 m from Teldeniya, 98 m from Colombo. (2 r). MA DULKELLE Kaleebokka Estate, Madukelle
(Elevation 3,500). Phone: .
Madulikele 25 (2 r).
MAHA LLUPPALAMACB-(Department of Agriculture)-(3r).
MAHAGAN1A
C B-G.A., Kalutara-(2 r).
MAHAKANADARAVWA
CB-(Irrigation Department) Anuradhapura- Trincomalee road.-(3r).
MAHA OYA
Maha Oya R H : 148 m from Colombo, 56 m from Passara, 46 m from Chenkaladi (3 r).
MAHARA
Mahara R H : On Colombo.
Kandy road, 8 m from Colombo. (6 r). Phone : O783-20. MAHO Maho R H : By the Maho railway station, 82 m from Colombo (4r). Phone : Maho 53. MAHYANGANA Mahiyangana R H : 37 in from Colombo , 46 m from Kandy (2 r). Phone : Mahiyangana 5l 5. CB-(Dept. of Town and Country Planning (2 r). (Also see GURULUPOTHA).
MAKAN DURA
CB-G.A., Kurunegala
(2 r).
MAN KULANM
Man kulam R H : On Anuradhapura-Jaffna Road, 82 m from Colombo. (3 r). Phone : Mankulam 8.
MAN KERN CB-(State Plantations Cor
poration)-(2 r). NMANNAR Mannar R H : On road at the end of the bridge which joins Mannar to the mainland. 96 m from Colombo (4 r). Phone: Mannar 296. CB-(Ceylon Petroleum Cor
poration)-(3r). MATALE Bandarapola Tourist lodge,
Alawatte, Matale (4 r). Matale R H : 88 in from Colombo opposite the Matale post-office. (5 r). Phone : 0662-299.
MATARA Chantilly Guest House, 4
Brown’s Hill, Matara (4 r). Polhena Reef Gardens Hotel, 30, Beach Road, Polhena. Phone : Matara 04-2344 (30 r). Matara R H : Situated inside the Matara Fort, 28 m from Galle, 100 m from Colombo (lor). Phone : 04-2299.
MAUGAMA
Matugama RH : On Matugama-Horawala road, 40 m from Colombo (4r). Phone: Matugama 204.
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MATURATA
C B (G.A., Nuwara Eliya
(2 r).
MAWAD CHANA
CB-(TCEO)-(2 r).
MAVVANELLA
Mawanella R H : 200 yards to right of Colombo-Kandy road, 56 m from Colombo, 6 m from Kandy. (5 r) Phone : Mawanella 55.
NMORGRYA
C B-(2 r).
MHINTALE
Mihintale R H : On Anuradhapura-Trincomalee road, 8 m from Anuradhapura, (2 r).
MINNERYA
CB-(Forest Department)-
(2 r.).
NONERAGALA
Moneragala R H : On Wellawaya-Pottu vil road, 2 l m
from Welfawaya, 15 m
from Colombo. (4 r).
Phone : Moneragala 55. MORAGALA
Moragala R H : Elevation 500", On Horawala-Kumbaduwa road 5 m from Horawala, 48 m from Colombo (4r) Phone : Meegahatenne 6.
MORATUWA
Sethsulang, 20, Sudharmaratnarama Lane, Lower indibedda. (2 r). Phone : Colombo 93865.
Lake Croft Holiday Resort (Bolgoda) Peiris Avenue, Moratuwa. Phone : 072306 (3 r).
Ran Mal Holiday Spot-Float
ing Cabana, Gorakana, Moratuwa. Phone: 8445.
MOUNT AV NA Mount Lavinia Hyatt Phone : 07!-221 (l !0 r). Cabanas, 50/5, De Saram Road, Mount Lavinia. Phone : 07 -7786 (33 r). Bamboo Beach Inn, 37, De Saram Road, Mt. Aavinia. Contact Phone : Colombo 88080 (4 r. Holiday inn, 7, De Saram Road, Mount Lavinia Phone : 071-787 (9 r). Lavinia Beach Inn, 22, Barnes Avenue, Mt. Lavinia (6 r).
336
Marina Nivasa, 30, Sri Dharmapala Road, Mt. Lavinia, Phone : 071-7337 (! I r). Thambapani, 34/l, De Saram Road, Mount Lavinia. Phone : 07-7374 (14 r). Van Diemen's Guesthouse, 255, Galle Road, Ratmalana. Phone : 071-7000 (7 r). Silver Surf Hotel, (100 r). Beach Motel, 9, Samudra Mavatha, of De Saram Road, Mt. Lavinia. Hotel Tilly (30 r). MOUSAKELL CB-CEB-(2r). MULLATIVU Muaitivu RH : in the heart
of the town, 23 m from Colombo (3 r).
MURUNKAN
C B-(TCEO).
MUTTUR
Muttur R H : On Trincomalee-Batticaloa r o a d,
between Ganga ferry and Muttur ferry, 15 m from : Trincomalee (2 r). Phone Muttur. 3.
NA NATIVU Madam (4 r) (G.A., Jafna).
NALANDA
Nalanda R H : On MataleDambula road, 4 m from Matale, 02 m from Colombo. (6 r). Phone: Nalanda l.
NAMUNUKULA C B-(TCEO)-(3 r). NARAM MALA Narammala R H : On Giriulla-Kurunegala road, m from Kurunegala, 48 m from Colombo (3r) Phone : Naram mala 5 || 8.
NAVAGATHITHEGAMA C B—(G.A., Puttalam). (Il r)
NAVUNKjAM CB.
 ́NAVVALAPTIYA
C B-(TCEO)-(2 r).
NEGOMBO
Blue Lagoon Hotel, Talahena, Negombo. Phone : 032380 (44 rooms).

Brown's Beach Hotel, 75, Lewis Place, Negombo. Phone : 031-2031 (66 r)
Catamaran Beach Hotel, 22,
Lewis Place, Negombo. .
Phone : 03-2342 Contact Phone : Colombo 82729 (20 r). Negombo Beach Hotel, 75, Lewis Place, Negombo. Phone : 031-2448 (57 r). Sea Shells, Kudapaduwa. (40 r)
Phone: 032380,
*Blue Oceanic Hotel (40 r). Interline Beach Hotel, 65/3, Seneviratne Mavatha, Lewis Place, Negombo. Phone : 03 -2350 (7 r). Silver Sands Tourist Beach Hotel, 95, Lewis Place, Negombo. Phone: 0312402 (20 r). Aquarius Beach Resort, 75, Lewis Place, Negombo. Phone: 031-2448 Contact Phone : 071-468 (12 r).
Rest Houses New R. H. Phone : O3-22.99
(9 r). Lagoon View R H. Phone :
031-2299 (5 rooms).. NELUVVA C B (Land Development De
partment)–(1 r). NKAVVERATYA Nikaweratiya RH: On the Kurunegala-Puttalam road, 25 m from Kurunegala, 80 m from Colombo. Phone : Nikaweratiya 809.
NLAVEL See under TRINCOMALEE
NDAN DAHİN NA
C B-(G.A., Nuwara Eliya)
(2 r).
NUVAVARA EYA
Hotels
Grand Hotel. Phone : N’Eliya 0522-26 I (104 r).
Grosvenor Hotel. Phone :
N’Eliya 0522-307 (9 r).
Hill Club, Nuwara Eliya. Phone: N'Eliya 0522-23.
Municipal Tourist Rest, Badulla Road, N’Eliya. Phone : 0522-436 (5 r).
Lake View Guesthouse, Baduila Road, Contact Phone : Colombo 8426 (3 r). Nuwara Eliya Tourinn, 25, Park Road. Phone : 052240. Contact Phone : Colombo 8525i. (7 r). Princess Guesthouse, 2,
Wedderburn R o a d, N'Eliya. Phone: 0522-642 (7 r).
Villa Concordia Guesthouse, Park Group, Kandapola. (5 r) Phone: Kandapola 23.
Pilgrimways Tourist House, Bambarakele. Phone : OS22-500.
Circuit Bungalows Survey Dept. (3r). Land Development Depart
ment (3 r). CEB (2 r). Forest Department-Moon
Plains (2 r). TCEO-Kande Ella-(2 r). Ceylon Transport Board (3r). Dept. of Water Supply & Drainage-'Fair Light' (2 r). Youth Hostels Youth Hostel Service Centre, 5, Cross Street. (6 beds). Lyndhurst Youth Hostel. Phone: 0522-347 (6 beds).
ODDUSUDDAIN CB-Irrigation Department
(2 r). OHIYA CB-Forest Department (r). ΡΑΙΟΑΜΥΑ CB-Irrigation Department
(3 r). PADUKKA Padukka R H : On the left of Horana-Hanwella road, Ilm from Horana, 22 m from Colombo via the High level Road. (3 r) Phone : Padukka 94. PALAV CB-Salt Corporation-(3r). PALAWARAYAN KADDU C B-Territorial Engineering
Services- (2 r). PALLEKELLE See Linder KANDY.
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PALUGAMA C B-Forest Department
(2 r). CB-TCEO-( r ).
PANAM URE C B-rrigation Department
(2 r). PANDUVWAS NUWARA CB-Archaeological Depart
ment (2 r). PANCHCHANKERNI Chenai kudah Wadi (3 r). East Wind (3r). Contact
Phone : 8878 (4 r). PAN VWA Panwila R H : On the KandyMadul kelle road, 3 m from Kandy, 85 m from Colombo (2 r) Phone : Panwila 22. PARAN ALAN KULAM Paranalankulam R H: 65 m: from Colombo, at the junction of the Medawachchiya-Mannar road, and Vavuniya-Mannar r o a d, 22 m to Vavuniya. (4 r). PARANTHAN C B-Paranthan Chemicals Corporation (4r) Phone: Kilinochchi 239. PATANA Devon Falls Cottage, Craiglea Estate, Patana. (Elevation 4,500') Phone : Talawakelle 23. Contact Phone : Colombo 27206 (3 r). PATTIPOLA CB-Forest Department
(3 r). PELMAD ULLA Pemadulla R H : Phone :
Pelmadulla 27 (5 r). PERADEN YA See under KANDY PONT PEDRO Point Pedro R H : On the North Coast Road, 2 m from Jaffna via Kopay, 246 m
from Colombo. (2 r), Phone : Point Pedro 583. POLGA HAWELA
Polgahawela R H : Beside Polgahawela railway station, m from Kurunegala, 47 m from Colombo. (6 r) Phone: Polgahawela 297. Railway retiring rooms
Railway station (2 r). POLHENA See under MATARA
338
PESAAI CB-Fisheries Corporation(3 r) Contact Phone : 3645. POLON NARUVWA Polonnaruwa R H : Phone : Polonnaruwa 55. Contact Phone : Colombo 23504 (10 r). Amalian Nivas Nationai Holi
day Resort, New Town,
Połonnaruwa. Phone : Polonna ruwa 605. ContaCt Phone : Colombo 22232,
Hotel Seru wa, National Holi. day Resort, Polonnaruwa. (40 r) Phone : Polonnaruwa 667. *Hotel Araliya, National Holiday Resort, Polonnaruwa. (30 r). Circuit Bungalows National Milk Board, Gallella (4 r). Phone: Polonnaruwa 537. Land Development Depart
ment-(3 r). TCEO (4 r). Archaeological Department
(2 r). Department of Agriculture
(2 r). POONERYN C B.-G.A., Jafna.
POONAKARY Madam (3 r) G.A., Jafna.
POTU PITIYA C B-(G.A., Ratnapura) (2 r).
POTTUVIL
CB-Irrigation Department i/2 miles from town(2 r).
PULMODDA
C B-Mineral Sands Cor
poration–(4r).
PUSSELLAVWA
Pussellawa R H : Phone : Pussellawa 803. Contact Phone : Colombo 23504 (4 r).
PUTTALAM
Puttalam R H : 82 m from Colombo. Phone : Puttar llam 259.
CB-Cement Corporation
(3 r).

RAGALA
Ragala R H : 32 m from
Colombo. 5 m from Nuwara Eliya. (3 r).
RAJANGANE
CB-(irrigation Department)
-(3 r).
RAXVANA g
Rakwa na R H : On the Madampe-lauderdale road, 8 m from Madampe, 84 m
from Colombo. (4 r) Phone : Rakvana 23.
RANM BUKKANA
C B-(G.A., Kegalla)-(2 r).
RANGALA
Rangala Group, Rangala. (Elevation 2,900' to 4,500") Phone : Rangala 24 (2 r).
RATNAPURA
Ratnapura R H. Phone :
Ratnapura 314 (12 r).
Hotel Ratnapura (30 r
* RDIBENDELA C B-TCEO - Anuradhapura
Road-2 m (2 r. ROSELLA Templestowe Estate, Rosella. (Elevation 4,000") Phone: Watawala 94 (1 r). RUHUNU NATIONAL PARK Brown's Safari Cottages. Con
tact Phone: Colombo 97
8 r.). Park Bungalows at Palatupana, Mahaseelawa,Buttuwa, Yala, Talgasman kada, Heemwewa, Patanangala, Tunmulla (Kumana) & Okanda. Many campsites. For reservations Phone : 94.653
RUWAN WELA Ruwanwella R H : 47 m from
Colombo. (4 r). CB-(G.A., Kegalla). Phone:
Ruwanwella 29-(4 r).
SNNAM UHATTU.
VARAM Sinnamu hattuvaram R H : On the Batticaloa-Pottuvil road, 40 m from Batticaloa, 26 m north of Pottuvil (3r). SGRYA Sigiriya R H. Phone: Kibissa 2. Contact Phone: Colombo 23501 (20 r).
Sigiriya Camp Site-10 sites-leach with cemented base for a tent, shower, cooking place, plug point pipe-borne water and toilet. Tents and cooking utensils can be hired.
For reservations contact: The Camping Authority, Sigiriya National Holiday Resort, Sigiriya or the Sigiriya Rest House. Phone : Kibissa 2. or Director Development, Ceylon Tourist Board. Telephone: 3468, 395.
*Hotel Sigiriya (50 r).
CB-Archaeological Dept. (2)
(2 rand3 r).
TALAVVAKELLE Talawakelle RH : Phone :
Talawakelle 63 (8 r).
TAMANKADUVWA CB-Department of Agri
culture-(2 r).
ANA MALVAVA
Tanamalwiła RH : 2 1/2 m from Wellawaya, 52 m from Colombo (2 r) Phone: Tanamalwila 3.
CB-Forest Department (2 r).
TANGALLA
Tangalla Bay Hotel, Pallikkudewa (24 r). Phone: 0416246.
Tangalla R H. Phone : 0416
299 (6 r).
C B—(G.A., Hambantota)—
(2 r).
TELDENYA
Teldeniya R H.. Phone :
Kandy 899 (4 r).
TEHNYAWA A (Kalu
tara District)
C B-(2 r).
TSSANAAHARANAA
Tissamaharama R H, Phone :
Tissamaharama 95. Con tact Phone : Colombo 23504 (38 r).
TRNCOMALEE
Blue Lagoon Hotel, Nilaveli, via Trincomalee.. l 2 m from Trincomalee. C on tact Phone : Colombo 95765 (20 r).
339

Page 193
Welcombe Hotel, Orrs' Hill Road, Trincomalee. Phone: Trincomalee 373. Contact Phone : Colombo 83875 (30 r). Rest House. Phone : Trinco
malee 259 (8 r). Tourist Centre, Phone: Trincomalee 350. Contact Colombo Phone : 23504 (3 r). Railway Retiring Roomsrailway station (6 r) Contact Phone : 35838. Ceylon Sea Anglers Club.
China Bay. 15 cabins. * Nilaveti Beach Hotel, Nilaveli
(30 r). Chinese Guest House, Dyke Road. Phone : Trinco 450, *Hotel Club Oceanic, Up
puveli (60 r). C B --Ceylon Petroleum Corporation-China Bay (3 r.) C B-CEB (3 r). Welcombe Youth Hostel,
. Orrso Hi. Te: 373 *Sun & Sands Nilaveli (30 r). CB-TECO Inner Harbour
Road, (r).
Nilaveli Old Dutch Bungalow (Archaeological Dept.) 2 r.
The Villa, I8, Orrs' Hill Road, (3r). Contact Colombo Phone: 950.
Night Jar Guesthouse, Nilaveli
(4 r). La Petit Nichee, Inner Harbour
Road.
U DAMADURA CB-G.A., Nuwara Eliya
(2 r). UDA WALLAWE CB-River Valleys Develop
ment Board-(4 r). C B, Suriyawewa-RVDB 10 m
from Ambalantota (2 r). C B, Embilipitiya - RVDB
( 1 r). U DUGAMA Udugama R H : 24 m from Galle on Udugama-Galle road, 96 m from Colombo (2 r). UKGAL KALTOTTA CB-lirrigation Department
(2 r).
340
ULAN KULANE
Ulan kulame R. H : Between 64th and 65th mileposts d Anuradhapura-Kandy road, 13 m from Colombo (2 r).
UN NICHICH
CB-Irrigation Department
(2 r).
VAKARA
Vakarai R H : On the Batticaloa-Trincomalee road 37m from Batticaloa, 275 m from Colombo. (2 r).
VALACHCE NA
CB-Eastern Paper Mills
Corp. (Sr).
VAVUNIYA Vavuniya R H : On the Anuradhapura-Jaffna road, 33 m from Anu radhapura, 88 m from Jaffna, 153 m from Colombo (5 r). Phone : Vavuniya 55.
C B-(TCEO). VEYANGODA
C B-National extile Cor
poration (6 r).
WAKANER CB-10 miles from Valaich
chenai (3 r).
WΕΚΕ
Weke RH : HanwellaPasyala road, 10 m from the Hanwella ferry, 7 m from Colombo (2 r) Phone : Pugoda 806.
VWALASMUILLA
Waasmulla R H: On the Matara-Walasmula road, 23 m north of Matara, 29 m from Colombo. (2 r).
WATTALA See under COLOMBO.
WEDDAGALA
C B-G.A., Ratnapura (2 r).
WEIGAMA
Welligama R H : On the Gale-Matara road, 6 m from Galle, i 0 m from Matara. (6 r) Phone : 045-299.
Welligama Bay Youth Hostel
(8 beds).

VVEL: MADA
Weimada R.H. : On the Nuwara Eliya-Badulla road, 16 m from Nuwara Eliya, 9 m from Badula 32 m from Colombo (4r) Phone: Wellimada 33.
Y.M.C.A. Youth Centre (main Nuwara Eliya-Welimada bus route) Phone : Colombo 25252 (96 beds). VWVELLAVWAYA Wel lawaya R H: 130 m from Colombo, (2 r) Phone: Wellawaya 10. VAVERAGAMOTA Weragamtota R H : 44 וזז from Kandy via Teldeniya, 19 m from Colombo (3r) Phone: Mahiyangana 545. VWLGAM U VWA C B-(G.A., Matale) (2 r). CB-Bogahawewa – L a n d Commissioner's Department (3 r).
WLPATTU NATIONAL
PARK
Park Bungalows are available at Maradanmaduwa, (2), Manikapola Uttu, Kalivilłu, Kokmottai, Talawila, Panikkar villu and Manavila. Also two camp sites Phone : Colombo 94.653
Hotel Wilpattu, Kalaoya
(30 r). Phone: 24624.
WIRAWLA
Sanesuma Holiday Resort (6 r, 2 cottages). Contact Phone: 07-7472
Randunukele (2 r) Contact Phone : Colombo 9498
The bis-(4 r. 2 cabanas).
Phone: 82067.
YALA
See under Ruhunu National
CB State Hardware Corp.
YAPAHUVWA
CB-Archaeological Depart
ment-(2 r).
KEY
RVOB-River Valleys
Development Board.
MDBs. Mahave Develop
ment Board.
TCEO ---- Territoria Civil Engineering Organisation.
CEB= Ceylon Electricity
Board.
RH - Rest house,
CB= Circuit bungalow
m= Miles.
r= Rooms.
* Under construction at the
time of publication.

Page 194
Queųɔ
ə3eəIĻJ
-·- f’ Á ÞAW y TT3AA
 
 

Index
Abhayagiri 99 Abhaya Vapi 98 Accommodation 327 Adam and Eve's graves 36 Adam's Bridge 38 Adam's Peak 45, 54 Ahatu 34 Akasa Chaitya 74 Allahana Parivena 109 Ala mi della 38 Alexandrites 297 Alliarasany 62 Alugalge 247 Alut Avuruddha 308 Ambalama 30, 35, 37, 40 Ambalangoda 53, 40 Ambalangoda Maha Vihara 54 Ambalantota 69 Ambastala Dagaba 04 Ambepussa 27 Ambul Tiyal I.94, 287 Amethyst 298 Amherstia nobilis 36 Amulets 307 Anai Palam 49 Andigala 06 Anaikallu 230 Angam 307 Anila 87 Anuga 96 Anuradhapura 87 Aquamarines 297 Araliya 36 Arankee 47 Ariippu 40 Arrack 292 Artocarpus incisa 320 Artocarpus integrifolia 287, 320 Arugam Bay 27 Asipatha 302 Asmi 288 Astrology 307
Atadage 108 Ata-magala 306 Atchuveli 34 Athpoth thiyanava 308 Athurumituru wewa 73 Attama 39
Atu na 38
Atura 306 Atwetota 202 Audience Hall - Kandy 33 Au kana Statue ! 4 Auspicious times 307 Avacado pear 290 Avalokitesvera 56 Avissawella 4
Backhaus Ralph 02 Bael fruit 29
Bakini 317 Balane Pass 209
Bai 305 Bambarabotu wa 244 Bambaragastalawa 71 Bambara Kanda Falls 42 Banana 289 Bannocks 98 Baobab tree 36, 37 Barberyn island 50 Barringtonia acutangula 38 Basketware 27, 3 I2 Bassavakkulama 98 Batadomballena. 243 Batalagoda Tank 50 Batatotalena 244
Batik 85, 3 Batticaloa 25 Bays
Godavaya 69 Hambantota 70 Kalikudah 24 Kudavella 202 Mount Lavinia, 47
343

Page 195
INDEX
Passekudah 125 Tangalla 67 Thambalagam 123 Welligama 64 Bear 58 Beed is 27 Beeralu veda 30 Belihiul Oya 4 Bell H. C. P. 03, 6 Bellan Bendi Pelessa 245 Bentota river 52 Bentota Tourist Resort 50 Berendi Kovi 4 ! Berrya cordifolia 35 Beruwala 50 Beryl 297 Betel 3 Bhuvanekabahu | 5 || Bible Rock 30, 209 Biltong 199 Bird Life
Chu ndikkulam 23 Delft 36 Gall Oya 175 Hambantota 7 Kumana 68, 278 Kokkilai I 8, 23 Lunama 69 NMannar 137 Parititivu 232 Tissamaharama 73 Uda Waltawe I78 Yala || 64 Blow-hole 66, 203 Beating 48, 52, 55, 63, 9, 26, 32,
40, 43, 49, 256 Bodhimalu Vihara 35 Bogawantalawa 142 Bolgoda lake 48 Bopath Ella Falls 20, 223 Botanical Gardens
Hakgala 45 Henaratgoda (Gampaha) 24 Peradeniya 40 Botiyatenne Pass 20, 26 Bo-tree 34 Bovattagala 172 Brazen Palace 93, 98, 99 'Brief' Bentota 52 British 4, 62, 8, 2, 30 Brocken-spectre 46 Budugala 245 Budugalge 253 Buduruvagala l55 Bulu 3 || 4 Bulutota Pass 42, 54, 26 Bundala 73 Burghers 14, 65
344
Burial cists 106, 24 Buruta 35 Buses 27 Buttuwa ! 64
Cadjan 32
Cadju sellers 26
Calamander 35
Camera equipment 265
Cameron Julia Margaret 42
Camp cooking 194 Equipment 99 Fire 93 Sites 26, 174, 78, 8, 9, 200 Water 92
Camping 19
Cannonball tree 37
Cardamom 284
Cassia fistu la 35
Casuarina beach 32
Cat's-eye 297
Caverns 237
Caves
Augalgekande 24 Alugalge 247 Aukana 249 Bambarabotu wa 244 Batadom balena 243 Batatotalena 244 Buddamalhela 252 Buddhanagehela 249 Budugala 245 Budugalge 253 Demaliyagalge 253 Dimbulagala 1 2 Diyainna 245 Galgiriyawa 250 Godavaya 69 Habessa 253 Hamangala 25! Handagiriya 254 Henanegala 25 Hoom-mane 67 Istripura 45, 240 Isurumuniya 94 Kabara Gailge 248 Kalukoladeniya 254 Karambagala 69, 253 Katugahagalge 242 Kiwuleya 252 Komarikagala 253 Kosgalla 54 Kuragala 245 Maharaksahela 25 Malayadi I77, 252 Mellagala 251 Menik Lena 243 Mihintale |04

NDEX
Muttagala 25 Mutugala 251 Nissangala Lena 243 Nitre Cave 243 Periya Mandapam 248 Piduragala 25 Pillamagala 253 Ravana Ella 145, 24 Ritigala 250 Sasseruwa 6, 249 Seven Virgins 244 Sitakotuwa 47, 24 Sita Galge 249 Sinna Mandapam 248 Ulwalagalge 253 Wavulpane 245 Wavul Galge 247 Westminster Abbey 252 Yudaganawa 242 Cave Dwellings 249 Caving 237 Cerbera manghas 38 Ceylon "Oak" 34 Ceylon Teak 35 Chaitya 9 Chan kanai || 34 Chank divers 52
Charms 306
Chenai kudah 155
Chilaw 86, 142 . Chinese 5
Chloroxylon swietenia 35 Cholas 07, 20 Chrysoberyl 297 Chundikkulam lagoon 23 Cinnamon 80, 284 Circuit bungalows 39, 327 Citronella distillery 68 Citrus 290 Civet fruit 26, 290 Climbing Perch 27 Cloves 285 Cochlospermum religiosum 317 Coconut 49, 37, 32 Cocos nucifera 37 Coffee 322
Coir 322
Colombo 3 Conjuring 307 Conservationist 56 Convocation Hall (Polonnaruwa) 09 Copra 322 Coral gardens 55, 65 Corbett's Gap 214, 243 Coriander 96, 286 Corundum 296 Corypha umbraculifera 317 Cosmos 93
Couroupita guianensis 37 Crocodiles l64 Culavamsa 4, 67, 37 Curd 69, 72 Curios 3 I2 Curry 287
Powder 96 Custard-apple 289
Dagaba 9 Dahata Sanni 30 Dalada Maligawa 32 Dampers 198
Dana 92 Dances (Sinhalese) 299 Danigala 175 Dara-miti Perahara 1 02 Dastota rapids 227 Datura fastuosa 39 Davulagala ambalama 40 Davulagala Veleambalama 35 Dawson Captain E. F. 2, 22, 30 Dedduwa lake 202 Dedigama 28 Deduru oya 206 Deepavali 281
Deer 6 Degaldoruwa 35 Degodawela 177 Deiyange rata 75 De 320
Delft 35 Delft ponies || 35 Demala Maha Seya 10 Dematagala || 73 Demodara loop 45 Demonism 304 Demonology 303 Dendrobium macarthiae 320 Devanampiyatissa 3, 98 Devayas 305 Devil Dance 30, 305 Devil's Staircase 54 Devinuwara 65 Deviyage 305
Devoli 30 Dhatusena 12, 5 Dialium ovoldeum 35 Dighavpi 126 Dimbulagala i l I, 233 Dionysii 72 Diospyros Ebenum 315 Diospyros quoesita 35 Diulanagoda 172 Dixon's Corner 53, 25 Diyainna 245 Diyaluma Falls 155 Dodanwela Devale 35
345

Page 196
INDEX
Dondra (Devinuwara) 65
Head 66
Lighthouse 66 Dowla 300 . Drums 299 Dry-RiverWalks 204 Duck 69, 70, 73, 8, 38, 257 Dumbara mats 30 Dune water 92 Durian 26, 290 Dutch 4, 57, 8, 2, 30 Dutch Canal 79, 8. Dutch 'Kerkhof" 6 Dutugemu nu 72, 74, 78, 96, 99 Duwa 83
East coast 7 Ebony 3, 315 Ehala 35 Elapita Falls 221 Elara 99 Elephants 65, 7, 73, 27, 6, 165,
75, 179, 80, 83, 266, 280, 28 Elephant Baths 34 Elephant Stables 28 Elephant Wall 74 Elephant Quay 149 Elgin Falls 29 Elk Plains 201, 2|9 Ella 45, 200, 212 Eilemulle Gap 25 Embekke Devale 35 Entanda scandens 318 Era badu 36 Erythrina indica 36 Esbendum 307 Esterepure 240 Exorcism 303
Festivals (calendar) 275 Ficus benghalensis 34 Ficus parasitica 314 Ficus religiosa 314 Fire-walking
Kataragama 77, 280
Munneswaram 86
Mundel 86, 279
Udappu 88, 279 Fishing 48, 72, 83, 8, 28, 136, 54,
79, 98, 257 弊 Flamboyant 316 M Flamingoes 7, 72, 73, 18, 38 Flapjacks 198 Food 52, 54, 66, 80, 24, 32, 43, 55,
94, 283, 286. Fordyce Gap 200, 25 Forts
Arippu 140
346
Batticalloa 25 Balane 209 Galle 56 Hammenhiel 33, 149 Jafna l33, 34 Kalpitiya 48 Kankesanturai || 50 Katugodella 21 l Macdonald 45 N1annar 37 Matara 64 Negombo 8 Pooneryn || 53 Sitawaka 4 Urundi Kotte 49 Fort Frederick 2 Fou Point 23 Foxtail orchid 39 Fruits 23, 197,277,280,288,320
Gadaladeniya 35 Gajaman Nona 69 Galapatha Temple 50 Galgamuwa 14 Galge 66 Galgirilena 06 Galle 56 Gallodai aru 206 Galmaduwa Vihara 36 Gal Oya National Park 174 Gal Pota 08 Gal siyambala 315 Gał Sohona Kanatta 152 Gal Vihara 0 Gandapana 39 Ganegama Vihara 77 Gangaramaya 64 Gannoruwa 7 Garnet 297 Garrett Banking Engine 45 Gedige 92 Gems 54, 293 Gemming 294 Gem Corporation 296 Gem Society 296 Geta bera 299 Giant's Tank 37 Gin Ganga 56 Giritale Tank 228 Gloriosa Superba 319 Godavaya 69 Go-inda-hela 235 Gokkala 309
Golf 255 Gomarankadawela 119 Gonagolla 177 Gon-kaduru 38 Gotami Vihara 7

NDEX
Governor North's bungalow 40 Grahaism 305 Grahayo 305
Gravets 23 Great Basses 268 Great Western 20, 222 Groote Kerk (Galle) 60 Groote Kerk (Jaffna) 33 Guava 289 Gunner's Quoin , 233 Gurugalhinna 106 Guru pokuna 20
Habessa 253 Hackery 64 Hakgala Gardens 45 Hakgala Strict Natural Reserve 220 Hal-milla 35 Hambantota 70, 20 Hammenhiel 133, 149 Handagiriya 78, 245 Handapan Ella Plains 42, 27
Falls 26 Handicrafts 34, 48, 5 , 62, 30 Hangamu Vihara | 53 Hangu ranketa 39, 46 Hanuman 62 Han wella 22 Haputale 2.0 Haputale Forest Reserve 200, 20 Haputale Gap 20 Harvest-dance 302 Hasalaka 146 Hata dage | 08 Heda Oya 206 Helitours 272 Hembarawa 227 Herbarium 40, 4 , 62 Heritiera littoralis 318 Hevisi band 300 Hiking 40, 53, 208, 29 Hikkaduwa 55 Hindagala Vihara 36 Hippuros (Horse mountain) 62 Hiripitiya I 47 Homo Sapiens Balangodensis 242, 243
245, 248 Hoom-mane 66, 203 Hooniyam 307 Hoppers 288 Horagolla 26 Horoscope 308, 38 Horsfieldia iriyaghedi 37 Horton Plains 27 Horton Plains Nature Reserve 220 Hot Springs
Kanniyai 120 Maha Oya 202, 25
Mahapelessa 69, 202
Rankihiriya-ul potha || || 9 Hungama 68 Hunnasgiriya 2 l4
ddalgashinna 200, 2il i llan kaiturai 229
ama 294 Indian Laburnum 35 Indrajala 307 Indul kata ganava 308 İngini 93 istripura Caves 45, 54, 55, 240 isurumuniya 93, 98
lovers 93 lvory 3||
jafna ||29 Jagara Hamuduruvo 23 Jaggery 322
Jains 99 Jak 287, 290, 320 Jeevama 306 Jetavanarama 100 Jewellery 312
Kabaragala 26 Kabara Gailge 248 Kachan 7 Kachchaitivu || 34 Kadavata 23 Kadugannawa Pass 29 Kaffirs 87 Kalametiya 68, 20 Kala oya 87, 205 Kalapuwa
Embiikala 73 Kalametiya 68, 20 Lunama 69 Malala 72 Mawyella 66 Rekawa 68 Kalawewa || 15 Kalinga Nuwara 20, 227 Kalkudah 124, 148, 155 Kaipitiya 48 Kaludiya Pokuna 105 Kalu dodol 288 Kalu Kumara Yakka 304 Kalu Madiriya 35 Kalutara 48 Kaluwara 35 Kau Yakka 304 Kanabisunge galge 174 Kandy 3
Lake 33 Road 2 Kandyan dance 300
347

Page 197
Kankesanturai 49 Kanniyai 120 Kantaka Chaitiya 105 Kantalai 49 Kantharodai 133, 49 Kanya-nool 306 Kaparama 96 Kapuism 305 Karaitivu 33 Karambagala 69, 253 Karavas 8 l, 85 Karma 4
Karukkal || 94 Kasyapa 94, 1 I 2, | 15 Kataluwa Temple 63 Kataragama 72, 74, 280 Katarangala Vihara 153 Kattadiya 305 Katti-maram 82 Katuwana 20 Kavun 288 Kayts i 33, 149 Kebilitta 73 Keerimalai 32 Kelani River 79 Kelaniya 22 Kelaniya Raja Maha Vihara 22 King's Palace 36 Kinihiriya 37 Kirigalpota 29 Kirindi oya 73 Kiripokunahela 7 Kirivehera 76, 109 Kirklees Gap 214 Knuckles Range 226, 243 Koddiyar Bay 23 Koggala Lake 62 Kohomba Kankariya 300 Kokkarevilu 159 Kokkilai | 8, 23l Kolam 30 Kola Sanniya 304 Kol Padu 30 Komarikagala 253 Kon 3 || 4
Kongala 72 Koodellagaha 36 Kosgolla 241 Kota Vehera 28 Kota wall 39 Kottamba 313 Kuchchaveli E 8 Kudawella Bay 202 Kudi mbigala 17 Kudremalai 5, 87, 57, 62 Kumana villu 68, 266, 278 Kumarakanda Rajamahavihara 55 Kumbuk 76, 38
348
INDEX
Kumbukkan oya 206, 318 Kumbukwilla 59 Kuragala 245 Kurulugala 26 Kurumba 322 Kurunegala l50 Kuruwita 243 Kustaraja Statue 63 Kuttam Pokuna 96 Kuu || 287
Kuveni's Place 6
Lace-making 32 Lacquer ware 30 Lagerstroemia speciosa 36 Lahugala 27, 155, 266 Laksala il 6, 3 || 0 Lanka Patuna 229 Lankatilaka | 09 Lan kati laka Vihara 37 Lantana camara 39 Luxapana Falls 22 Leeches 209, 222 Leekeli 302 Leopard 58, 160, 6, 65 Lewayas
Bundala 73
Karagan 70
Maha 72
Mahasittarakala 70 Little Rome 83 Liyangahatota 202 Loolecondera 323 Loranthus 319 Lotus Bath O Low-country dance 300
Madampe Lake 54 Madanvela Purana Vihara 37 Madara tree 4 Ma del fishing 54 Madhu 38
Madu 26 Madu Ganga 53, 202 Madugoda Pass 22 Madunagala 69 Maduru-tala 93
Maduwa 53 Maduwanwela’s walauva 42 Magama 73, 74
Magha 107 Magul Maha Vihara 74 Magůl Maha Vihara (Lahugala) 28 Maha (season) 2 Mahamegha Vanna 10 Maha oya 85 Maha Oya (hot springs) 202, 25 Mahapali Alms Hall 92, 98

Mahapelessa 69, 202 Mahasena || 00 Maha Seya dagaba 105 Mahasona 304 Mahatittha, 5, 36 Mahavamsa 4, 67, 320 Mahaveli River 2 Maha Vihara 98, 0 Mahawelatota |74 Mahinda 3, 03 Maho || 50
Mahout | 87 Mahseer 76, 258 Mail coach 22 Makara 176
Malays 7 Maliga Vihara 37 Maliyadeva 47 Mallala Ara 72, 206 Mal lali (fretwork) 63, 80 Malwatu oya 205 Man and His Horse 93 Manavela Falls 25 Mandagala 74 Mandalagiri l l l Mangifera indica 288 Mango 228, 320 Mangosteens 289 Manjusri L. T. P. 69 NMannar 36 Mantai 36
Mantota 5
Mantras 306
Maps 269
Marawila 85 Marco Polo 5 Marich chuckaddio 4 Marignolli 5 Marigold shortcut 54 Marsh Elephant 88 Martello tower 70 Martynia diandra 319 Masked dance 30 Masks 54, 3, 38 Matara 64 Matara diamonds 298 Mau Ara || 78 Maviddapuram Temple 32 Medagammedda Ambalama 37 Medawala Vihara 37 Medirigiriya | | | Menik Ganga 74, 75, 206 Mihingu bera 299 NMihintale 03 Mi la 35 Minihagalkanda 67 Minipe Anicut 200, 224 Minipe Yoda Ela 224
NDEX
Mirisaveti 99 Mirror wall 3 Mishrakakanda 04 Moderagam aru 205 Monsoons 2 Moon Plains 29 Moonstone 96, I08, 44 Moonstone (feldspar) 298 Moonstone mines 40 Mosua ferrea 35 Mottayagala 126, 154 Mount Lavinia 47 Mudra 56 Mudu Maha Vihara 27 Muduwelipokuna 168 Mukkuvars 46 Mulkirigala 67 Mullegama 75 Mundel 86 Munneswaram Temple 86, 143 Muruta 36 Museum
Anuradhapura 9 Colombo S Dedigama 28 Jafna 133 Kandy 33 Ratnapura || 54 Muslims 4 N1ust 87 Mutugala 25 Mylid dy 34, 150
Nadum 35 Naga darana 319 Nagadipa | 34 Naga Poku na 05 Nagas 30 Nainativu 152 Nalanda || 52, 223 Nallur Temple 32 Natha Devale Vegiriya 38 National Park Bungalows
Gall Oya 180 Ruhunu 79 Wilpattu 79 Yala East 80 Reservations 80 Na Tree 35, 47, 3 5 Negombo 80 Nekatiya 307 Nelumpath Pokuna 72 Nelunwila 59 New Year (Sinhala, Tamil) 277, 308 Nila 87 Ni faveli i 7 Nildandahinna 223 Nilgala |76
349

Page 198
NDEX
Ni lwada Ganga 64 Nissanka-lata-mandapaya 08 Nissankamalia 07 Nitre Cave 243 Niyamgampaya 38 Niyangala 39 Niyapothu veda 30 North Road 87 Nuga 34
Nutmeg 285 Nuwara Eliya 43 Nuwaragala 76, 234, 25 Nuwara Wewa || 0 ||
Occult 303 Ochappu Kallu 16 Ohiya Pass 2l I Oias 317 Open Season 70, 28 Orchids 54, 39 Oruva 82 Oysters 123
Padawiya 153 Padda boats 79, 8 Padeniya 50 Padre Curry 95 Palaitiv u 34 Palkumbura Vihara 38 Pallemalala 72 Palimu mai 37 Pallugaturai 62 Palugaswewa 178 Pana Bera 299 Panadura 48 Pandukabhaya 98 Panduvas Deva 97 Panduvasnuwara 143 Panichchanken i 24 Pankulam aru 206 Pannala 240 Pan nikkians I88 Pantheru 302 Papaw 289 Parakramabahu i 28, 02, 07, 43, 52
Palace 07 Paranagama 240 Parangi aru 205 Parititivu 232 Park of the Goldfish 93, 0. Passekudah 25 Passes 209 Pattini Devale Yalegoda 38 Pearl Banks 4 Peltophorum pterocarpum 36 Pepper 284 Peradeniya 53 Peradeniya Gardens 40
350
Perahera
Dara-miti 02
Dondra 65
Kandy 32, 279
Kelaniya 22, 275 Pericopsis Mooniana 315 Periya Mandapam 248 Petrified Crab Shells 9 Pettah || 6 Photography 63, 66, 83, 27, 82,
263, 28 Picnic Spots 49, 66, 69, 18, 20, 123,
24, 26, 43, 50 Piduragala 4, 25 Pig-catching 85 Pigeon Island
Gase 59
Matara 65
Ni lawelli || || 8 Piila 3 9 Pili 306 Pineapples 23, 289 Pinnacle Rock 9 Pitiye Devale Dambarawa 38 Pittu 288 Plumeria spp 316 Poinciana regia 316 Poi 37 Polgasduwa hermitage 56 Polhena 65 Pollebadda 234, 25 I Polonnaruwa 107 Pomparippu 87, 162 Pookulam || 62 Pooneryn 34, I 53 Portuguese 4, 56, 81, 12, 134, 135,
37 Poson 278 Potgul Maliga Vihara 146 Potgul Vehara 109 Pottery 22, 27, 63, 80, 87, 3 0 Pottuvil 127 Potuliyadde 176 Prawn fishing 82 Ptolemy 72 Puligoda 2 Pulmoddai || || 9 Pungudutivu 33 Puppet Dancers 54 Purana Subhadrarama 53 Purana Vihara, Hipitiya 38 Purse-seine nets 54 Puis Wal 38 Puttalam 86 Puttalam Lagoon 48 Puwakmala Falls 22
Quartz 298

INDEX
Oueen's Pavilion 96 Ouindah 36
Rabana 300
Ragala l53
Railways 27 Rain Trees 68 Rajagala l77 Rajamaha Vihara, Danture 39 Rajamaha Vihara, Uda Aludeniya 39 Rajasinha [4 Rakvarna 54 Rambutan 290 Rammaeli Kanda 20 Ranagala 78 Randeniya 55, 22 Ran kot Vehera ||0 Ran-masu Uyana ||0 Rantambe Gorge 47, 200, 24, 225 Rasnakawewa Vihara 06 Ratgama Lake 56 Ratna Ella Falls 47, 213 Ratnaprasada 95 Ratnapura 154 Ratugala |75 Ravana 36, 45 Ravana Ella Falls 45 Ravan tribe 242, 247 Red Rocks 8 Rekawa Temple 68 Relic chamber 9 Rest-houses 39, 327 Rhu massała Kanda 6 , 62 Rhynchostylis retusa 319 Rice (preparations) 286 Ridigama Vihara 50 Ridiyagama 69 Ridiyagama Tank 68 Riri Yakka 304 Ritigala 233, 250 Ritual 75, 32, 33, 30 Rock Violet 39
Roti 98 Rubber 24, 49, 325 Rubies 296 Rufus Kulam 26. Ruhu na 73 Ruhunu National Park 63 Ruk 37 Ruvanveli Seya 93, 99, 162
Sacred Areas
Kataragama 74 1 Kelaniya 22
Hangu ranketa 39 Sacred Bo Tree 3, 93, 98, 02, 58,
34 Sailabimbaramaya 55
Sa 37
Salappai Aru 20
Salgala 28
Salt Pans
Hambantota 7 Paavi 48
Samadhi Buddha 96
Samanala Kanda 45
Saman Devala (Ratnapura) 154
Sampan-tota 7
Samudra Giri Vihara 229
Sanctuaries
Bundala Lewaya 73 Chundlikkulam 23 Galway's Land 220 Giant's Tank 37, 232 Kokkilai Lagoon 8, 23 Madhu Road 232 Minneriya-Giritale 228 Naval Headworks 230 Parititivu 23 | Peak Wilderness 20, 22 Polonnaru wa 228 Rocky Islets (Hikkaduwa) 55 Sita Eliya Sanctuary 29 Somavati 230 Tangamalai 200, 2l I, 220 Telwatta 202 Tissamaharama 73 Udawatta-kele 34 Willipattu || 57 VWirawia 73
Sangamitta 57, 282
Sangharaja Pirivena 53
Sangilitoppu 134
Sanni 30
Sapodilla 289
Sapphires 296
Sapugaskanda Temple 23
Sarapiddi 36
Sarasuntenne 200, 223
Sarcocephalus cordatus 37
Sardie 29
Sasseruwa Statue 6
Satinwood tree 35
Schleichera oleosa 34
Sea Bathing 47, 50, 5, 53,65, 67, 7, 8, 23, 24, 25, 28, 32, 36, 48, 62,
Seasons 2
Seru wawila 23
Seya 9
Shooting 36, 154, 98, 256
Shooting Season 70
Sigiriya i I2
Frescoes 4 Graffiti 4
Silakala l56
35

Page 199
INDEX
Si lavatturai 4l Singing Fish 125 Sinharaja Forest 52, 42, 27 Sinnakarachchi 8 Sinna Mandapam 248 Sinnamu hattuvaram 54 Sita 36, 4 , 45 Sitawaka 4 Sittandiku di 25 Siva Devale 08 Sivan Adi Padhan 45 Siyambala 315 Skanda God 75 Skin-diving 83, 25, 52, 267, 275 Snakes 24 Snake Stone 25 Sober sland 23 Somavatiya i l2 Soragune (Horagonne) 226 Sorcerer 305 Spathodea campanulata 316 Spear-fishing 55, 18, 259 Spelaeology 237 Spices 283 Spinel 298 Sports 255 Squatting plates 95 Sri Lanka (outline) Sr aha Bodhỉ 3, 93, 98, 102, 158, Sri Pada 45, 154 Sri Rahula Maha Thera 55 Sri Subhadrarama Vihara 47 St. Anne's Talawila i48 St. Anthony's Church Colombo 8 Stilt Fishing 63 Stone Age Monument 20 Stone Bridges 105 Stringhoppers 288 Stupa 9, 101 Sunandaramaya 54 Sun Chart. 269 Surayas 307 Suriya 318 Suriyagoda Rajamaha Vihara 39 Su visuddharama NMaha Vihara 80 Swami Rock | 2ł, i 22 Sweetmeats 27, 80, 84, 288
Tabebuia rosea 36 Tabebuia serratifolia 316 Tala-guli. 27 Talaguruhela 172 Talaimannar Pier 38 Talgaha 37 Talipot Palm 30 Tamarind Tree 315 Tamarindus indicus 35
352.
Tambapanni 97 Tamils i4 Tammattama 300 Tangalla 67 Tangamalai 200 Tangamale Plains 27 Taniwella Devale 85 Tantri malai I58 Tapovana 95 Tara (Goddess) 156 Tarshish 56 Taylor James 323 Tea 29, 322 Teal 69, 70, 73 Tectona grandis 35 Telwatte Vihara 55 Temple flower 36 Temple Murals 63, 66, 67, 69, 10, 2 Temple of the Tooth 32 Террапm 82 Terminalia arjuna 38 Terminalia belerica 34 Terminalia Catappa 313
Thalam 302 Thambalagam Bay 123 Thanmbil i 322 Thavalam Bull 7, 223 Thelme 30
Thero Galle 68 Thespesia populnea 318 Thiruketheswaram 38 Thovi 304
ka 68 Timbiriman kada 178 Tinapitiya Tank 85 Tirippane ruins 106 Tiriyai I I9 Tissamaharama 73 Tissa Tank Ol Tithonia diversifolia 39 Tivanka 108, li { 0, 156 Tivanka Pilimage || 10 Toddy 50, 33, 29 Tombo 57 Tooth Reic 32, 5 l Topaz 298 Torenia leucosiphon 319 Tortoise-shelf ware 3 Totapolakanda 219 Tourist Resorts Bentota 50 Hikkaduwa 55 Kalkudah 24 Koggala 62 Negombo 83 Tourmalines 297 Town Hall 5 Treacle 64, 69

INDEX
Trincomalee i2l Trout 44, 26 Trout Fishing 26 Tulip Tree 36
Tumeric 286 Tuparama 92,98 Tuparama (Polonnaruwa) i 08 Turnour George 68 Tusks 89
win Ponds 96
Udappu 86, 143 Uda Wallawe National Park i77 Udawatta-kele 34 Udawela Cave Temple 39 Udekki 300 r Udupiyan 242, 243, 245, 248 Uggal Kaltota 54, 245 Unawatu na 6 Unuwaturabubula 25 Urubokka dam 20 Urugala 24 Uruwala Vihara 25 Utuwan kanda 29
Vakaneri 24, İ55 Vakarai 24, 55 Valaichchenai 24, 54 VaI suriya kantha 39 Valvettiturai 34 Vampire Bats 4 Vanda tessellata 319
Vannam 30 Vanni 2 Vatadage 108
Veddahs 175, 230, 233 Veddikachchi intermediate Zone 228 Veeragaha Temple 48
Ve 280
Velgam Vihara 20 Velle Kovila 6 Velvet Tamarind 3l 5 Veruppankulama Viharage 106 Vesak 278
Vesak orchid 320 Vesamuni 304
Ves dance 300
Vessagiriya 94 Victoria Falls 2I4 Vidyodaya Pirivena 17 Viharagala l72
Vihara Maha Devi 22
Park S Vijaya || 36 Vijayabahu I 73, 102, 107, 108 Villus 58, 63
Vitex altissima 35 Vevagama Bambaragala 40 Votive Lamps 28, 46
Walaskema 68 Walawe Ganga 69 Warana Cave Temple 25 Warapitiya 20 VWatersheds 46, 26 Water-ski ing 48, 5, 132 Wavul Galge 247 Wavulpane 245 Weeraketiya 20 Welligama 63 Wellimada 55 Welipatanawila 203 Well-sweeps 3 Western Monasteries 94 Westminster Abbey 234, 252 Wewu rukannala Vihara 66 Willa oya 206 VWild Boar 262 Wilpattu National Park 87, iO3, 57 Wolvendahl Church 7 Woodapple 290 Woolf Leonard 70, 4 World's End 4, 28 Wrecks 268
Yachting 48, 256 Yak bera 299 Yakgahapitiya Ambalama 40 Yakinige-duwa 63 Yala (season) 2 Yala Block 2 || 66 Yala East National Park 68 Yala National Park 63 Yala Strict Natural Reserve 73 Yantra 307
Yapahuwa 5 Yattala Dagaba 74 Yuddaganawa 242
Zircons 298 Zoological Gardens 19
353

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TOA
RAIN-DAY CHART RAN DAYS
PERYEAR
JAN FEB. MAR, APR. MAY. JUN. JUL. AUG. SEP. OCT. NOW. DEC.
ANRADHAPURA
BAOULLA
BATTCALOA
COLOM 80
GALLE
HAMBANTOTA
JAFFNA
KANDY
MANNAR
NUWARA ELWA 213
RATNAPURA 244
TRNCIMALEE 109
AN. FEB, MAR, APR, MAY, JUN. J. AVG. SEP, OCT, NOV, OEC.
ത
354
 
 

Helitour
SriLanka
The only way to see
allofit.
The legendary beauty of Sri Lanka as well as the splendours of her ancient cities are now offered
conveniently, and in breath-taking close-up by " V. Helitours of Sri Lanka. w
A series of tours, with transport by 4-passenger
Bell-Jet Ranger Helicopters, provide the
ideal answer to travellers who want to see the island's incredible variety of natural and man-made beauties,
quickly and conveniently.
- HeliCUIMSIRE
Telephone Sqn. Ldr. Noel Fernando on 31584 or 33184. Air Headquarters P.O. Box 594, Colombo, Sri Lanka.

Page 201
sh,
by the Seashore
To remind you of a mediterranean holiday.
Here you pay much less for equal comforts,
and more pleasure. 40 rooms, good beach,
sea food in a quiet fishing village just 12 miles from Airport.
SEASHELLS HOTEL LTD
Palangaturai, Sri Lanka. Telephone 2380 Negombo.
 

Blue Lagoon - Talahena.
Large gardens, bungalow type rooms, swimming pool, tennis court and
miniature golf course.
From the minute you enter to the . last moments of departure, a memorable
experience in Sri Lanka.
بربر......::::.:.:.:::::8%:%برہبرجx&۔
భ
BLUE LAGOON TOURST HOLIDAY RESORT LTD. Talahena. Negombo. Sri Lanka. Telephone 2380
ΟΘΟΜΛ/ΘΘΟ
IOOOO ONO SGO

Page 202
. Privacy. in a Paradise
A modern little house by the sea. Situated on a beautiful tract of land on Orr's Hill, completely furnished and with friendly service.
Rooms which offer a panoramic view of the Inner Harbour, Fort Ostenberg, Sober Islands of picturesque creeks, bays, coves, which are part of the magnificent haven of Trincomalee.
Perfect for one or two couples or even a family of four or more.
Visit the great Hindu Shrine sacred to Koneswaram and one of the five Isvarams of the Salvite world, which crowned Swami Rock, Fort Fredrick's eastern precipice, which is replaced by a modern temple. (The evening pooja here, especially on Fridays is an experience not to be missed.)
Just 5 miles from "The Villa" the Anuradhapura Road leads you to the Hot Springs of Kanniyai.
Swimming, boating and skin diving in surroundings of splendour all year through.
Mile after mile of perfect beach facing the Bay of Bengal. For more details please telephone Colombo 91501 or call at 185/2, DharmapalaMawatha, Colombo 7, Sri Lanka (Ceylon).
The Villa.
18, Orr's Hill Road, Trincomalee
Whichever way one travels however, Trincomalee and its exquisite environs is a destination at which it is no dissapointment to arrive.
 

Paradise is known, in this twent cocktail lounges, cuisine and service tieth century, as Sri Lanka (Ceylon), are of true Inter-Continental
Paradise now has a truly com- standard.
fortable, completely air-conditioned, Beaches, shopping centre, golf first class hotel...The Ceylon course nearby.Temples, ancient cities, Inter-Continental. island charm, serenity within your
Located on one of the island's reach... plus all the comforts.What loveliest waterfronts, its 250 rooms, more would you want of paradise. .
Experience...
Inter-Continental hospitality in this enchanting corner Of ဒိုးမျိုဇွိုမှီးဂျီ
INTER CONTINENTAL SRI LANKA

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IN NIN
நி N }&ềề रूं 莎
· A Tilak, Toddy tapper Extraordinaire
He taps toddy for you, fresh from the coconut palm. That's just one of the additional services we provide to enhance your exotic, relaxing stay with us at the Pegasus Reef. The hotel is ideally situated, on the beach, in a paim-tree-studded ーン ... garden, close to Colombo and the Airport, convenient both for the tourist and the businessman. Of course we have a pool.and a tennis court and all the amenities consistent with our NTERNATIONA FIRST CLASS rating. In addition we extend to you those extras which make us better than good hotels and ensure your comfort, pleasure and satisfaction.
The Pegasus Reef Hotel
Po. BOX 2 WATTALASRI LANKA TELEX 132. TELEPHONE 070.205 8 206
*命、
SORDON, B. FERGUSON General Manager
A BRTSH AIRWAYS TRUST HOUSES FORTE HOTEL
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Break journey'at
Cafe Araiya
on the road tokandy
Stop for breakfast, lunch, tea, Cafe Araliya is part of the dinner, or just a drink and a snack Araliya Uyana . . . a restful place, Hot hoppers while you wait... all built around a miniature lake your delicious local favourites. . . teeming with tropical fish. Stroll in western food as well ! the gardens, look at flowers, birds,
take an elephant-cart-ride . . . at Ceylon Cold Stores does the Araliya Uyana, part of the
catering at Cafe Araliya... your Horagolla estates, on the road to guarantee of pure, good food. Kandy, just 23 miles out of Colombo.
CEYLON COLD STORES LTD
GRANf

Page 204
/ uith `) lKESTIIS
TRAVE
you only need to
Sri Lanka 1s only your stepping stone. After a tour of the island we take you from its golden sands to the Golden Triangle of India - Delhi, Jaipur, Agra. And included in Walkers' Tour Circle is a visit to the Maldive Islands, Afghanistan and Nepal.
We handle your air connections, hotels, sight-seeing. We are always around at avery stop on the way to greet you and guide you. When you travel with Walkers Tours you are in the reliable and practised hands of an associate of Neckermann, Tjaeroborg and many other renowned charter operators of the world,
Walkers Tours & Travels(Ceylon)Ltd.
217, Galle Road, Colombo 3. Telephone 24855, Telex 1118 Cables "Walkin'
 
 

Opening in the heart of Sri Lanka~October74
The HABARANA WALKMINN
All the attractions that Sri Lanka has to offer are only a couple of hours away at the most from The Habarana Walk-Inn. Saling. Skin-diving. Wildlife. Temples. Centuries old monuments. Rock paintings half as old as time. The Habarana Walk-Inn is elegant in its appointments. Superb in cuisine. Historic in its setting. It captures the spirit and warmth of Sri Lanka. Golfing, Fishing, Swimming. Sixty unique cottages. The Habarana Walk-Inn is just
close enough to everything and
just far enough to get away from it all. It is the complete
ANURADHAPURA I
POLONNARUvA s Hr.
SIGIRIYA 20 Mins.
DAMBULA 30 M
AUKANA 45 Mins,
VLPATU 2 Hrs.
TrincomALEs 2 hrs.
KALKUDAH2 Hrs.
AFFNA 4. rs.
KANDY 24 Hrs.
Walkers Tours
& Travels(Ceylon)Ltd.
27, Galle Road, Colombo 3. Tele 24855, Telex 1118 Cables. “Walkin'"
OG RA N°

Page 205
|
SRI LANKA GEMS
Our showrooms
Give you the Best
Selection of Sri LankaGems Blue Sapphires Cat's Eyes Alexandrites Star Rubies Rubies Star Sapphires Tourmalines Spinels Aquamarines Garnets Moonstones Citrines Amethysts Zircons etc etc
2: STATEGEMCORPORATION
Bandaranaike 24 York Street Hotel Ceylon International Colombo Inter-continental Airport Phone 23377 Colombo Katunayake Cables Gemcorp Phone 21221 Extn 9
Phone 0789-203 for quality gems and friendly efficient service State Gem Corporation
 
 

ARTEXPORT
I.ARGEST EXPORTERS OF WIPULA BATKS
Galleries: Hotel Ceylon inter-Continental, 430, Galle Road, Kollupitiya, National Holiday Resort, Bentota. Coral Gardens, Hikkaduwa, Araliya Uyana, Horagolla, Kandy Road.
Studio & Office ARTEXPORT, 1 5, Halgaswatta, Balapokuna Road. Colombo 6.

Page 206
HOtte anka Obero
Sri Lanka's largest Five Star hotel built in the traditional style of the centre courtyard-Meda Midula.
266 GUEST ROOMS including 2 special suites and 24 Corner, Suites.
ROOF TOP SUPPER CLUB with bar and lounge.
“MALU MALU" RESTAURANT with bar, serving Ceylonese Indian and Chinese food.
LONDON GRILL ROOM Western Cuisine.
COFFEE SHOP 24 hour service.
GOLDEN BALLROOM Capacity 700 persons. Facilities for conferences including multi-lingual translation system for three languages. Projectors, screens available.
THE TRIP" Discotheque with modern şound and lighting. SWIMM ING POCL with bar and snacks.
HEALTH CLUB Sauna, steam bath and massage.
BEAUTY SALON and Barber Shop.
77-79 Steuart Place, Galle Road, Colombo 3,Sri Lanka. Telephone 21000
 
 

Page 207
GROUP
MOTELS LTD.
OFFER YOU THE KIND OF HOLIDAY YOU DREAMED
OF ALL YOUR LIFE
If you are looking for hours of swimming in balmy seas or stretching out under the golden su n-there's BROWNS BEACH HOTEL Negombo for you. The Hotel is centrally airconditioned ; excellent cuisine and international length swimming pool, along with
Reservations : Ring 917
all other facilities of a modern hotel.
lf what you dream about is a quiet holiday amidst nature's storehouse of tropical fauna and flora there's BROWNS SAFA R B E A CH HOTEL, Yala - a motel set on the edge of the sea and the borders of Yala Game Sanctuary.
You can spend a peacefully relaxing holiday up in the beautiful tea country of Dickoya at B. R O W N S UPPER. GLENCAIRN BUNGALOW; Go fishing or yachting in a mountain lake and enjoy the comfortable stay at Upper Glencairn.
Ext. 280
if additional accomodation is required please consult :
BROWNS TOURS LTD.
48, Darley Road, Colombo 0.
General Sales Agents for
Telephone: 92534
ZL0LLCCL0L LELT ELEEE LELEL L
.249 Cuzzwizzy azertazz"
 

52A way off the beaten
బ్తో
କୁଁ N trocks lies Sri Lanko
ජූනී
} wild, unspoilt, beautiful.
స్ట్రో Gothere with MERE5
S
NY To places like Inginyagala, miles from nowhere...
Inginiyagala, supremely serene, overlooking an immense, inland man-made sea bordered by vast jungle tracts, inhabited by aborigines (Veddahs) and war dering gypsies; inginiyagala, where the Elephants 'feed at the waters edge of the inland sea and other wild creatures roam the plains in fearless abandon. Go with MERCS to the heart of the wild game reserves- trailing lesser known tracks to a difetime's longed for “encounter“ between ens and feopard! Secret places for a feast of photography of animals and birds, or just for watching in wonderment . . . to be recorded and remembered on a cine screen years later.
Go where the beach sands are soft and endless. where You could sunbathe, yards away from wild animal spoor left on the sands at night, where you feet you're on your own private beach, with the jungle beckoning for a nighty rendezvous just behind you
Go with MERCS, discover rura rituas and custorms rarely seen or heard of. Meet beautiful. unsophisticated people, share their warmth of living, free and unfettered and untouched by the turbulent tide
of civilization
go with MERCs
* TAKE THE TRAIL TO TRANQUILITY FROM TOUCH-DOWN & TO TAKE-OFF ...
mercintile ors Ceylon) Ltd
323, York Acade, colombo 1. r. zna-а тоio. a vavalež colombo 鷺
cables MERCANTour ''

Page 208
ItávelAgency
oPS.
Ceylon Hotels Corporation, as Hoteliers,
Travel Agents, Tour Operators and General Sales Agents for British Airways, Olantas and a number of other Airlines, is the best equipped agency to answer to the needs of visitors to Sri Lanka.
Ceylon Hotels Corporation manages an exclusive Tourist Shop in Colombo, a Duty Free Shop at Bandaranaike international Airport, several Tourist Inns and hotels all over the island. They range from those ideally located on the beaches and on the banks of ancient reservoirs, to those in the cool climes of the hillcountry and in cities steeped in history...
Ceylon Hotels Corporation operates a large fleet of cars and air-conditioned super luxury coaches, with trained chauffeur-guides to-speed you to golden beaches; to go skin diving in the island's picturesque bays, to visit temples, to see elephants, leopards and other animals in the game sanctuaries and to wander among ruins half as old as time...
2 ceno Hotels corporation
S. Travel Bureau N Hotel Ceylon inter-Continental
48, Janadhipathi Mawatha, Colombo 1. Telex: 1196, "Hotelco' Colombo. Sri Lanka.
HOTELS; lihiniya Surf hotel, Bentota; hotel Seruwa. Polonnaruwa; hotel Samudra, Colombo; TOURIST INNS: Tissamaharama, Ambepussa, Ella, Kitulgala, Belihuloya, Sigiriya. Galle, Trincornatee,
Habarana, Pussellawa, Medawachchiya. Kantalai, Hanwella, Dambulis, Polonnaruwa. Reservations are made for other hotels in the island as well,
~പ
 
 
 
 
 

Our experience, reputation & integrity are your guarantee that when you are shopping for gems, it is safe to see us. We carry an extensive range of the finest stones incluCd 1 ng the rarer var vet veS eagerly sought by ConnoisMSeurs. Wo matter what you
are /ook ing for - Sappoh tres, Rubies, Cats-Eyes. Spiness, Anethysts, Garnets, Ouarts. MoonStones Or Alexandrites trust Kundanmals to put you wise on the genuine thing. YOU CAN'T MAKE A MISTAKE F YOU CHOOSE
YOUR GEMS AT KUN DAN MAS
Kundammals
GEM OERPARTMENT
Numru
114, MAN STREET, COLOM BO 11. TELEPHONE : 2364$1

Page 209
Its good taste goes with you wherever you go
LONG SIZE FILTER
 

O. L. M. MACAN MARKAR TID.
Jewellers & Gem Merchants
Established 860
Head Office:
26, Galle Face Court 2.
Sir Mohamed Macan Markar Mawatha
Colombo 3
Sri Lanka
Te 7975 Cabes : “ MACAN ”
Branches :
h:Jtel Ceylon inter - Continental - Colombo i.
Telephone : 27976
Galle Face Hotel - Colombo 3.
Telephone: 20 98
Mount Lavinia Hyatt Hotel- Mount Lavinia.
Telephone: 07 - 598
Associate Company : oriental Gem Exchange Ltd.
i6, Kimberly Road,
6 B, Champagne Court Arcade,
Kowloon - Hongkong.
Telephone: 3-68.1563 Cables : " RAHMATH'

Page 210
Times Building Fortcolombo 1. Telephone 21331
 

Page 211
Ceylon is the cradle of the human race because everyonethere looks an original
Georgia Bernard Shaw ملخص
 

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