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THE BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON

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THE BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON
A G UIDE BO OK TO ANURADHAPURA AND POLONARUWA
WITH CHAPTERS ON DAMBULLA, KALAWEWA, MIHINTALE AND SIGIRI
S. M. BURROWS
FOURTH EDITION
ASIAN EDUCATIONAL SERVICES NEW DELH MADRAS r 1000

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ASIAN EDUCATIONAL SERVICES
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Price : Rs. 165
SL. Rs. 195 (Special Price for Sri Lanka only) First Published: Colombo, 1905 AES Reprint: New Delhi, 1999. ISBN 81-206-1395-3
Published by J. Jetley
for ASIAN EDUCATIONAL SERVICES 31, Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi - 110 016. Processed by AES Publications Pvt. Ltd., New Delhi-110 016 Printed at Nice Printing Press, Delhi-110 051.

EE
BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON
A GUDE BOOK TO
ANURADHAPURA AND POLONARUWA
WITH CAPTERS ON
DAMBULLA, KALAWEWA, MIHINTALE AND SIGIRI:
BY
S. M. BURROWS, M.A. Oxon.
Ceylon Civil Service.
FDU EM
Colombo :
A. M. K. J. FERGUS) N.
London : KEGAN H’A UL, TRENUH, TRUBINER & U. JOHN HADDON & Co., LUZAC & Co.
1905,

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PREFACE.
HIS little book does not profess to contain anything strikingly original : its ainn is to
introduce the traveller and the antiquarian (and the
two are frequently synonymous), to rarely trodden
and most fascinating ground; to the beautiful
remains of an architecture and a civilization of
2,000 years ago, the greater part of which are
easily accessible: and to make a humble attempt at awakening, if possible, a greater interest in a
part of Ceylon which is only just arising from the
slumber and neglect of many centuries. There is
an abundance of able works on Ceylon, some of
which deal more or less completely with the
"buried cities;' but none of them are of very
recent date, nor do they contain such practical
information as will help the traveller to form an
idea of the task that lies before him. That task
has been rendered comparatively easy by the im
provements of advancing civilization, The best

Page 7
ν PREFACE.
months for seeing the "buried cities' (January and February) correspond exactly with the time when the stream of visitors through Ceylon is naturally the largest; and a week of ordinary travel will introduce the visitor to an artistic and archaeological treat which is perhaps unique in the East, and will enable him to arrive at a very different estimate of the past history of the Sinhalese race from that which he would form, were he to confine himself to the beaten tracks of Kandy and Colombo. The voluble vendors of expensive tortoiseshell and fallacious gems are not fair representatives of a nation which could build a city of gigantic monoliths, carve a mountain into a graceful shrine, and decorate its pious monuments with delicate pillars
that would have done credit to a Grecian artist.
My warmest thanks are due to Mr. H. C. P. Bell, C.C.S., Archaeological Commissioner; but for whose generous permission to make free use of his valuable Reports and papers, the present edition of
this work would be of little value.
S. M. B. JUNE, I905

ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE.
RUwANvELI DAGOBA, ANURADHAPURA (to face) 1
ExCAVATIONs on Rock's SUMMIT, SIGIRIYA 罗州 37
STAIRs, ANURADHAPURA... 0 in yy 45 JETAWANARAMA, PoLONARUwa w w 107 GAL VIHARE, POLONARUWA ... , 109
PILGRIM's REST, ANURADHAPURA ... (after) 120

Page 8

CONTENTS.
PART II.--HISTORICAL
PART III.—TOPOGRAPHICAL :-
Chapter I.-Dambulla
yy 2.—Sígiri
yy 3. - Anurádhapura ...
yy) 4-Mihintalé
99 5.--Kalávewa
99) 6.-Minneri and Polonaruwa
PART III.—MISCELLANEOUS :-
Postal and Telegraph Information
Resthouse Charges ... Coach Fare and Time Table Railway Time Table
PAGE.
25
33
45
87
93
II 5
II6
II8
II 9

Page 9

INDEX.
Abhayagiriya Dágoba 8 s
g y ပြိုးရှီးty, Convent of the Abhavewa a
Aborigines of Ceylon • • Adáhana Sáláwa (Royal Cremation Place) Aწწჭჭ"; IV., Reign of v a Aluwiháre Caves
y "ಜ್ಜು - Amarvati, Railing at Ambatthalo, Battle of Ambustala Dágoba... Ammianus Marcellinus Ananda, Cave of ..
, Statue of ... Anula, Queen of Tissa
, the “Infamous' Anuradha, City founded by Anurádhapura, Area of
s Evacuated
History of...
s Means of travel to and fom
sy Population of
s Rainfall of
sy Resthouse
s Restored...
s Seized by Malabars
穿笼 Temperature of
Topography of Aqueduct, Stone ...
Arch, False
Archæological Researches in the North-Central
Province Arjuna, Pemance of... Arramana, Prákrama Báhu's Expedition to Ata Dágé Audience Hall at Anurádhapura ...
Aukana Vihåre ... Audience Hall (Sigiri) Ayton load a
... 26, 46, 18 45
PAGE, 8, 67, 68 69
94 2, 3, 44 50
14
8
25
73
1S
89
109 () 48
8
3
45
4
2
45 46, 116 5
5
45
45
88
04
20, 6S, 77 9
6 05 59
97 35, 36 86

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X NDEX,
Balaluvewa 8 a 93 “Bambara” Bees ... 8 a a 4. 37 Banagé (Preaching Hall) 97 Bana, Sâlâwa · · · 06 Basawakkulam Tank 56, 58 ပြိုး†ဝှိ;"|ဗူးပု a ... (See Pokuna) Bell, Mr. H. C. P. (Archaelogical Commissioner). 68, 77 Barhut, Railing at ်... 73 Bhátiya Tissa 6 0 8, 53 99 , Statue of s & 53 ::ဒ္ဒိပ္ဖို Sålåwa (Refectory) a 88 Bisókotuwa (Sluice) v. 65, 94 Bo-tree, Sacred ... - ... 4, 11, 30, 48 Brahmins'Attempt to Oust Buddhism from Ceylon 9 Brazen Palace - (See Lówá Mahapáya) Breach in Kalawewa. - w 93 Bridge, Old Sinhalese a 67 Buddha a - 9 м в 2 sy Dedication of Ceylon to... 30 s Monuments to ... a , Relics of... 10, 11, 54, 55, 89, 97 99. Statues of, at Aಖ್ಖ 50, 52, 60, 63, 66 . 99. y at Aukana Wiháre 97 s sy at Dambulla ... ... 28, 29, 30, 31 y 99 at Polonaruwa 105, 107, 108, 109 Budhha's Footprint, Carvings of... a 26, 85 Buddhism, Introduction of ow u 4. y Standard Works on ... & 4 28 Buddhist Railing a 71, 73 y Scriptures, Transcription of v 8 Bulls, Stone, Superstition concerning A 5. Bund of Kalåvewa ... 8 84 ) 97 Cambodia, Parákrama Báhu's Invasion of P 6 Canopy Stone B v 4 19 Cave Dwellings . A d 74, 89 Central Road Mail Coach w a 18 Chanda-Mukha Siva, Reign of . KO 2 Charges, Resthouse, etc. a 116 China, Political Relations of Ceylon with 0 q Q Church Council of King Parikrama Bhu 15 Circular, Inner ... 74 Outer ... to 56, 57,73, 74, 76 Civil Hospital at Anuradhapura... u 50 Coach Fares See Central Road Mail Coach Cobra-Stone s s 68, 88, 104 Collarbone (Right) of Buddha 55 Cotta O l Cremation Place ..., v. (See Adáháma Sáláwa) Chronicles, Sinhalese
Cistern Rock (Sigiri) 8 d h 35

INDEX,
PAGE
Dahiwakanda - 26 Daladá Máligáwa, at Anurádhapura ... ll, 54 99 sy at Polonaruwa ... 11, 103 , Tooth Relic)... ф е в 11, 55 Dambadeniya a v 7 Dambulla, • ... ... 25, 33 y Rock Temples of ...7, 17, 26, 27 Dambul-oya - r is 93. Danillos v v 8 See Malabars Daniel and King Astyage 8 53. Demalamahasèya P R w 10. Dewa Raja Vihaire . a w 28, Dewananpiyatisa, Reign of 4, 7,54, 57, 84, 88, 89 Dhammaruchi Brethren 4 71, Dhátu Séna, Reign of... Ο Φ Ο ... 1, 12, 94 s Tragic End of a 2 Dickson, Hon. Sir J. F. . . . 45 Door-guard - a - [See Makara Torama) Doorway, Unique ... a 75 Durbar Hall 102. Dutugemunu and his Relations, Painting of 4 29, 98 y and Elála, Battle between ...6, 29, 51, 98 Last Davs of a 7.
yy Reigno a 6, 7,47, 51, 86, 94 Dutugemunu's Couch... 5. Medicine Dath 5.
s Statue ... - 53
s Tomb ... 60 Dvarpal (Door-Guardians) 49 Elála and Dutugemunu, Battle between ...6, 29, 51, 98 , Reign of un - - - 5, 51 , Tomb of w s sh « 0 6, 50 Elephamts ... 6, 13, 19, 61 , Bathing Tank - 61, 74
y Brickwork ... a 0 52
sy Stables » » a 64, 7. Embassies from Ceylon to the West... 12 Etwehera 89 Exploration of the Ruins is s - 2) Eyebrow, Hair from Buddha's a S9 Fa Hian, (the Chinese Traveller) ... ... ll, 49, 54 Fares by Coach ... l 18, 119 Ferguson's Handbook to Architecture 55 Fig of Trees ... - O 2O Frescoes at Dambulla ... a s 29 y 9 at Isurumuniya - S6
at Sígiri ... 43
y9 Mural, at Isurumuniya v. S4 Gaja Bahu I. a S9
y Expedition to India . 9

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xii INDEX,
Gal-Asamaya (Sígiri) ... Gal-ge (Stone-house) ... Galleries at Sigiri ... Galpota (Inscribed stone) Galwaduwás (Stone Carvers) Gallwiháre Gampola Ganesha w a Gámini Abhaya Gansabáwa (Willage Tribunal) Gantalawa Tank Giritalé (Giritaláwa) ... Goose, Sacred Gordon, Sir Arthur, G.C.M.G. Gotabhaya, Reign of ... Gregory, Sir Wm. H., K. c.M.G. Gunner's Quoin a Habarane Halpan-ela Hat Rajjuruwó - o a Henry VI. of the Sinhalese Annals ... Hindu Divinities, Frescoes of Hinduism Horse Coach, Fares by
39 sy Journey by
Hospital at Anuradhapura Inamaluwa Inscription at Anuradhapura
g ,, Dambulla,
9 „ Mihintale
s ,, Polonaruwa
sy , Vijitapura Isurumuniya Dágoba... Jawbone of Buddha ... Jayawewa Jetawanáráma at Anurádhapura
Monks
at Polonaruwa Julian Emperor Justice, Extempore Kalabalaluvewa Kallá Oya Kalávewa
s Bumd a Kálidás Pandita, Fate of Kálinga, King of Kaludiya Pokuna Kandy Kantalai Tank Kásyapa, Reign of ...
PAGG. 38
74
4. 17, 105 18
5, 109 17
29
89 101, 102, 108, lll
See Kamtalai
10.
9 2, 41, 67, 89, s
45
99 73
4. 29 8 118, 119 26
50 32 62, 66 27
a 96 105, 106, 107, 108 96
4, 57, 84 97
y a 4 87 10, 55, 65, 76., 81 4 l US
2
OO
12, 93
97
12, 93, 95
9.
l3
90
17
O l2, 43

INDEX.
Kataire (Drip-cut) ... Katiwarakanda Kataragama, God of Kawudlupelella Kekiráwa King's Bath (Sigiri) King's Palace King's Prison a Ο Φ Ο Kiribat Vehera at Amuradhapura Kiriwihare at Polonaruwa O 4 KK Kirrti Sri Meghawarna
Nissanka ...
, Wooden Statue of Kitsen Kisdas a Kneeling Stone Kotuwa (Fort) Kowdelly Tank Kuja Tisa Dágoba.. Kumara Dás, Tragic End of Kumara Pokuma Kurunęgala Kuttam-Pokuna Kuweni Lajjikawihára ... I i i Lajji-tissa, King ... Lamentation Place, Royal Lankáráma Dágoba * Latrine
Lion at the Colombo Museum
, at Sigiri . Lówa Maha Päya (Brazen Palace) Madura Temple ... Maha Alut Vihäre Mahakassappa, Yvooden Statue of Mahanána, Reign of Mahanámo « - 40 Mahasen as Minneri Deviyo
sy Images of y Reign of..
9 Temple of Mahasèya Dágoba... Maha Viháreat Anurádhapura 9 y 9 IDambulla, Mahawansa, Writers of
Translators of The Great Solar Dynasty Mahindo's Arrival in Ceylon ...
y Bedl ... Mahindo, Death of Makara Toran (Portal-Guardians)
99.
y
(See Patula-stone οι: Kesalkuttiya)
ll, 54 17, 27, 105, 106, 107 - 30 105
63, 97
l()
()
7岁
13
03
17
66
3
73
73
5()
56, 59, 75
O2 36
7, l (), 46
S
30
28
l, 12
I
Ot) ... 9, 47, 65, 100 - - - 100 89
75
28
l, 12
2
10 4, 18, 48, 87, 89
- 88 . 27, ბ0, 75, 88

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xiv. INDEX,
PAGE. Mail Coach a 118, 119 Mails to and from Anuradhapura... a 5 Malabars, Introduction of, to Ceylon 5 9 y invasions of - 5, 7, 9, 12, 14, 28 Malwatuoya Bridge 69 “Mantragala” ... - Ο Σ. 6 Marcellinus, Ammianus, on Early Ceylon ll Matale - 25 Mayurapáya (Peacock Palace) ... a 50 Medicine Bath, Dutugemunu's ... 5. Meditation Stone ... ... (See Yogi) Méghawarna · · · − O 89 Mendicants and Fakirs, Settlements for - 4. Messalina of Sinhalese Annals ... a 8 Mihintale . . . - 4, 87 y y Resthouse 7 Minneri Deviyo ... ... • • l Minneriya a - ィ 99
s Shrine at « V 39 Tank ... a 10, 99 Mirisgoni Oya, .. 93 Mirisvetiya Dágoba ... 7, 56 Mogallana r 3 Money Order Arrangements at Anuradhapura ... 16 Monoliths - - - - 47, 50, 52, 62,63, 105 Moonstone w ow − 49, 60, 63, 64, 105 “Mura-gés' or Guard-houses ... 26, 51, 52, l05 Mura-maduwa ... - - - a : 89, 90 Murray, Mr. A., P.W.D. 4.
· Mutragal” w s 51, 56 Mystic Stone wo a 26 Nága Pokuna a 88 Nalanda 0 0 V KK 26 Nirvána lO Nissannkalata Mandapaya - - - - 73 North-Central Province (Statistics) 45 Northern Circars, Expedition from 7 Nunnery 8 • - 86 Nuwaravewa - - - 60, 87, 90 Origin of the Aborigines of Ceylon
s Sinhalese Race ... 2 Paganmyo о « и 09 Pagodas 1{}9 Seven ... - 18, 19 Palm Grove round the B6-tree at Anurádhapura 49 Pandi, Prakrama Bahl's Invasion of 16 Pandukhábayo, Reign of 3, 87 Pandu-oruwa (Dyeing Vessel) ... O. 55 Pandluwasa а в т. 3, 96.
Paspilime viháre. a 3.

NDEx, Σςν
PAGE.
Pattirippuwa (Pavilion) - - 102 Patula Stone (Latrine) 74 Pavilions, The Five, of Dutugemun 50 Peacock Palace (See Mfayurapaya) Penance of Arjuna ... 19 Pilame Talawa and Elalas's Monument 6 Pidurugala 43 Preaching Rock (Sigiri) w 8 w 44 Puliyānkulama Monastic Ruins ... a 86 Pilimagé - - - A 77 Pillars, Unique ... 94 Pirivena (Monastery)... . . . 97 Pliny on Early Ceylon s & 2 Pokuma, (Bathing Tank) Circular ... 5l y s y Kumāra ... 03
y Nága ... ۰ و SS
y » Elephants 74
yy y Kaludiya A V NA 90
y s 99 Kuttam . . . 66
s ,, Oblong ... 58, 59, 60, 61, 64, 65, 66
99. s Tammnettan to 74 Polonaruwa 11, 14, 20, 99 99 Topography of Ol Portuguese, Arrival of a l
y Historians on Sinhalese - 2 Postal Arrangements of Anuradhapura a 5 Pottery, Ancient ... 0. Prakrama Báhu, Reign of ... lis, 19, 75 yy s Second Queen of... 107
y Statue of - s w 16, 111 Pridham's History of Ceylon 2 Puttalam 3. Queen's Palace . . . . 60 Rahat (Order of Priests) O a 29 Railing, Buddhist ... 71 Railway Time Table ... + » w a 9 Rája Sinha, the ಟ್ಗ of Kandy 49 Ralapana (Wave-catch) ... a v 57 Rámiswaram s is 16 Rankot Dágoba - - - - 107 Ransimálakaya (Private Hall) . ۰ a 48 Ratmalegahakanda ... w a 26 Resthouse Charges ... 116, 117 Resthouses on the Central Road ... O Restoration of Kaláwewa. 4 RW) 95 Ritigala ... a 90 Asiatic Society - . . . . 57 Ruhuna r = 1 l4
Ruins, Present State οι, Accounted for s : 20 Ruwanvelisaya Dágoba 8, 7, 30, 51,73

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XV INIDEX,
PAGE.
Sacred Road I R 47 Saddhá Tissa, King... - - 5丑 Sanchi, Railing Round the Great Tope of ... 73, 107 Sanghamitta (Abess)... y • r. O 4, 48 s the Tutor of Mahasen 0 Sannases (Inscribed Stones) - as (See Inscription.) Satmahal-prasada » YA ... l ()6, 107 Stanmore, Lord ...(See Gordon, Sir Arthur) Sculptors, Nationality of - 8 Sélachaittiya Dágoba at Anuradhapura 73, 76 at Mihintalé... 90 Seven Pagodas, The... . : 8 ه Siam a 8 - O ...2, lij, 52, 99 Sígiri .. ... 13, 27, 33 , Frescoes 35, 43 Sinhalese and Tamils, Connection between 8 99 Chronology, Early 2
s Landing of the 4 KK 2, 3
s not a Warlike Race 5
s Origin of the 2 Reign of ... - a a 5,75 Shuratisa - 5, 75 Soli, Prákrama Báhu’s Invasion of ... - 16 Sri l”atula (Footmark of Buddlha) ... 25, 85 Srisanghalbó, King ... , is . l4, 74 Statistics of Anuradhapura a 45 Stone Canoe ... 7, 62, 88 , , 9anopy . . 19 ,, Mesmeric or Yógi • a ... «», «» 26, 6. Where Quarried? O 9 KK - a 19 , Yóni . . . 103 Street, East and West a s 64 Swords, Curious - - - . . . 00 Discovery of Ancient a 29
ኃ ) of Sinhalese ... 97 Tamils and Sinhalese, Connection, between - a 8 Tammettan Pokuna ... KO 8* 74 Tanks made by Prákrama Báhu ... 6 Tanguttaro Hill 75 Telegraphic Arrangements at Anuradhapura ... 5 Tennent's 'Ceylon'... ... • • l, 3 Therevadi Monks ... 70 Thuparama at Polonaruwa a 04 s Dágoba ... a 2, 4, ll, 54, 76 Ticks, Plague of ... - ... 34, 101 Tirappane · - 46, 90 Tissa: . . ''' ... (See Dewenipiyatissa) , , King Deweni piya ... (See Dewenipiyatissa) Tisavewa (Tak) 57, 86, 90, 96
Toplivewe a a ... 14, 99, l0l

INDEX.
Toluwila Moanstery ... Trick of Light Trincomalee Triumph of Prákrama Báhu Trough, Stone Turnour, Mr. Geo., C.C. s. Upatissa II. Ulysses and Circe Veddas Vigitapura or Wijitapura Vishnu 4
Dewale at Polonaruwa Walagambahu
9 , Statue of
Watadågè Wedge Marks Well, Curious Wibhishana - Wijesinha, Mudaliyar L.C. Wijita Wijitapura or Vigitapura Wijaya - - - Wijayabahu, Reign of Wijayarama Dagoba
s Monastery Windows, Curious ... • ... ... Wirawitta Sáláwa (Place of Lamentation) Wismakarma Wytulian Heresy ... - - -
sy yy , A Stronghold of the
Yápahu
Yoda-ela (Giant's (Channel) Yogi or Meditation Stones Yogi-Stone - - - Yantragala
Xνii
PAGE.
77, 86
09
99
- 5 (See Stone Canoe) 4)
3 o 3, 96 ...l., 2, 3, 29, 96 v 14 74
78
104, 105
5()
54
9, 65
8
17
58, 93, 95
26, 61
− 0 « 03 (See Mystic Stone)

Page 14

PART 1.
STORICAL.

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Page 16

କ୍ଷ୍ଠ୍ଯକ୍ଷ୍ଠ୍ଯକ୍ଷ୍ଠ୍ଯକ୍ଷ୍ଠ୍ଯକ୍ଷ୍ଝ୍କ୍ଷ୍ଠ୍ଯକ୍ଷ୍ଠ୍ଯକ୍ଷ୍ଠ୍ଯ <#> NS 92 b
泳魔签恋葱 渡葱葱
PART II.
HISTORICA
T is a remarkable fact that although the Sinhalese do not rank as a literary nation, and have not produced a single author with any claim to world-wide eminence they have the peculiar distinction of possessing a series of chronicles, of unimpeached authenticity, which narrate their history from their earliest landing in the island down to the last century. A full account of these chronicles (which are collectively known as the “Mahawanso,' or “Genealogy of the Great') will be found in the well-known work of Sir Emerson Tennent on Ceylon. It is sufficient to say here that they were begun in A.D. 460, by a Buddhist priest named Mahanamo, uncle of the reigning monarch, Dhātu Séna; and his work, which comprised the period between B.C. 543, when the Sinhalese, led by Wijeyo, first reached Ceylon, and A.D. 301, was carried down by various monastic successors to the commencement of the British rule,
* 4tlı Ed., Wol. II., Pt. iii., ch. 1.
B

Page 17
2 BURED CITES OF CEYON.
Being written in Pali verse, these chronicles were a sealed book, until, in 1826, Mr. George Turnour, a Ceylon Civil Servant, was fortunate enough to obtain possession of the running commentary usually written by the Pali authors to explain the obscurities of their poetry; and with the help of this he was able to publish a translation of the most important portion of these unique annals, Such knowledge as we have, therefore, of the history of the buried cities of Ceylon, is entirely due to his admirable perseverance and erudition. An English translation of these remarkable chronicles was made by L. C. Wijesinghe Mudaliyar under instructions from the late Governor of Ceylon, the Hon. Sir Arthur Gordon (Lord Stanmore), and forms not the least worthy monument of a memorable rule.
It is a moot point how much confidence is to be placed in the early chronology of the island, as detailed in these annals. The landing of Wijeyo and his Sinhalese followers is placed suspiciously near to the date of the Nirvāna, of Gautama Buddha as reckoned in Ceylon; and it is remarkable that the original invaders were able to erect so perfect an architectural monument as the Thópárama within 150 years from their first invasion. Still greater obscurity surrounds the question as to the origin of the Sinhalese, and of the aborigines whom they ousted and superseded. A dim tradition (supported by the early Portuguese historians and by Pridham), points to a Siamese or Malay origin for one or both races; but as proof is entirely wanting to support it, it is safer to suppose that both races found their way to the island from the neighbouring continent, All we can confidently
* Wol. II., ch, iii., p. 24.

BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON. 3
say of the aborigines is, that they were a rude race, who left no monuments or records behind them; that they were probably forced to do serf-labour for their Sinhalese conquerors; that most of them became gradually absorbed into the dominant race; but that a remnant of them carried on the struggle for a considerable time; and, preferring a wild forest life to qualified slavery, are still to be traced in the almost extinct Weddas."
In B. c. 543, Wijeyo and his Sinhalese followers landed in Ceylon, possibly near the modern Puttalam om the west coast, it He is said to have been the discarded son of one of the petty princes in the valley of the Ganges, while the native chronicles explain the name of his race by tracing his paternity to a lion (Sinha). He conquered the aborigines (“demons,' as they are called in the chronicle), chiefly by the help of one of their princesses, Kuweni, whom he married and afterwards repudiated in order to ally himself with the daughter of an Indian Rajah, and settled his followers in various parts of the island. After a reign of 39 years, he was succeeded by his nephew Panduwasa, who also sought a wife from the Indian continent. This princess brought her six brothers with her, who soon formed settlements for themselves; one of them, Wijita, building Wijitapura or Vigitapura,$ and another, Anuradha, the city which still bears his name. This city was eventually chosen as
* For an account of the Weddas, see Tennent's Ceylon, Wol, III., Pt. ix., ch. 3.
t Mr. H. Parker plausibly argues for a landing on the S.-E. coast, near Tissamaharama. See Royal Asiatic Society's Journal for 1884
An interesting note to ch. 2, part iii. of Tennent's Ceylon traces the analogy between this legend and that of Ulysses and Circe,
$ See Part ii., ch. 4.

Page 18
4. BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON.
his capital by the reigning monarch, and was greatly enlarged and beautified by his successor, Pandukhabayo, who ascended the throne about B.C. 437. The native chronicles give an interesting account of this monarch's administrative efforts, which should gain him the respect of modern apostles of sanitation. He appointed 150 men to carry dead bodies to the cemetery, and 150 men as cemetery-keepers and sextons. There were 200 nightsoil men, a large number of night and day guards, and a small army of sweepers. The Weddas were placed in a separate settlement near the town, and in the same neighbourhood settlements were made for naked mendicants and fakirs, and for the “castes of the heathen.”
But the more practical achievements of Pandukhabayo, pale before the pious renown of his successor, King Tisa (or Dewenipiatisa), the Henry VI. of Sinhalese annals, who came to the thronic about B.C. 306. It was in his reign that the royal missionary Mahindo, son of the Indian King Dharmasoka, landed in Ceylon, and either introduced or regenerated Buddhism. The monarch, and all his court, his consort and all her women, became ready converts to the new tenets; the arrival of Mahindo's sister, Sanghamittá, with a branch of the identical tree under which Gautama obtained Buddhahood, consummated the conversion of the island; and the King devoted the rest of his reign to the erection of enormous monuments, rock temples and monasteries, to mark his zeal for the new faith. Of these, the Theparama, the Isurumuniya, and some of the buildings at Mihintale still attest his piety, his munificence, and his command of labour. He died in the odour of sanctity
* See Part ii., ch. 8.

BURED CITES OF CEYLON. 5
after a reign of 40 years. Four princes succeeded him, whose reigns were unimportant, save for the fact that one of them, Suratisa, took into his pay a mercenary force of Malabars, who were the forerunners of those frequent invaders who gradually expelled the Sinhalese from the whole of the Northern section of the island.
It would be a mistake to suppose that these Malabars (or 'Damilos, as they are called in the chronicle) were precisely the people now known by that name. They were chiefly the inhabitants of the great South Indian Kingdom of Pandya, and some of them came from places as far north as Orissa and Cuttack. The two leaders of the mercenaries employed by Suratisa, succeeded in murdering that monarch, and seizing, for a time, the supreme power; and it was their success that brought on the first great invasion of Ceylon in B.C. 204, under the illustrious Elála, a prince of Mysore. Landing in the country when the sceptre was in the weak grasp of an irresolute king, Elala met with such success, that he was able, not only to seize the throne, but to maintain himself there for a space of 30 years. Whether this long reign was the reward of a just and wise rule, or the result of a tacit acquiescence on the part of an unwarlike people in his claims to the sovereignty, it is hard to say; but even the bigoted chronicler admits that he 'administered justice impartially to friend and foe."
It is at least not difficult to see that seldom can an easier prey than Anuradhapura have fallen to a conqueror's hand. Situated on a level plain, without one single natural advantage of mountain, river or forest, the position was strategically indefensible unless by a warlike and determined people. This, however, was precisely

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6 BUREED CITIES OF CEYLON.
what the Sinhalese were not : they were agricultural rather than bellicose, better at building bunds than at raising redoubts; while the fivailable force of the kingdom, instead of being trained in the arts of war, was directed by their monarchs towards the construction of those gigantic dagobas, which were thus at once the glory and the ruin of the realm.
But the legitimate royal family had still a worthy representative left in Prince Dutugemunu, and the contest for the sovereignty between him and Elála, which was fought about B.C. 164, forms the most striking tale of chivalry in Sinhalese history. The final battle, which took place outside the walls of Anuradhapura, was for a long time doubtful, until it was decided by a single contest between the two leaders, each mounted on a huge elephant; the usurper was defeated and slain, and the rightful heir was hailed king on the field of battle. Satiated with military success, and penitent for the bloodshed he had caused, he determined to devote the rest of his life to expiatory acts of religion. But his first care was to erect a generous and fitting monument to his rival Elála, and to enact that the music of processions should cease, and kings alight from their palanquins, as they passed the tomb. The site of this is supposed to be marked at the present day by a conical mound of earth; nor was the generous enactment less lasting; for in 1816, as Pilame Talawé, the head of the leading Kandyan clan, was escaping through Anuradhapura, after an unsuccessful attempt at insurrection, he is said to have alighted from his litter, weary as he was, and walked on until he was well past the venerable. memorial.

BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON. 7
The pious king next set about the erection of the Ruwanveliseya, the proudest work of his reign, which is said to have been originally 270 feet high, and to contain (or to have contained) innumerable costly offerings and relies of Buddha; of the Lowa, Maha Paya, or Brazen Palace, with its foundation of 1,600 granite pillars, its nine stories, and 900 chambers for priests; of the Mirisvetiya, dagoba; the “stone canoe' and other stupendous works. His end is touchingly described by the priestly chronicler. During his last illness he caused himself to be carried to a couch placed opposite to the Ruwanveliseya (the site is supposed to be marked by a granite slab to the present day), that he might fix his expiring gaze on his grandest achievement. An attendant priest recited his many deeds of piety and munificence. “All these acts,' replied the monarch, “done in my days of prosperity, afford no comfort to my mind: but two offerings which I made when in affliction and adversity regardless of my own fate, are those which alone solace me now.' His eyes are closed with a benediction from the priest. “Thus, 'moralizes the partial chronicler, 'do the truly wise obtain for themselves imperishable and most profitable rewards from their otherwise perishable and useless wealth.'
The reigns of the four Râjas who followed are unimportant; but King Walagam Báhu, who came to the throne in B.C. 104, poses as a champion of the faith only inferior to Tissa, and Dutugemunu, Barely a year after his accession the second great invasion of the Malabars took place, forcing the King to seek safety in flight, and to hide in dens and caves of the rocks. When he regained his throne, after a long exile of li5 years, he transformed many of thes rocky asylums into elaborate temples,

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8 BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON,
the most notable among them being the rock temples of Dambulla. Another of his asylums, the Aluvihara caves near Mátale, was rendered still more illustrious in a different way. About B.C. 90 the King assembled there a company of monks, and caused the Buddhist scriptures, which had been orally delivered by Mahindo, and afterwards preserved by tradition, to be transcribed into Pali, and thus fixed for ever. The third great act of his reign was the erection of the Abhayagiriya ("mountain of safety") dagoba, the most stupendous work in Ceylon, as it originally stood 405 feet from the ground. It appears to have had a larger body of priests attached to it than any of the other shrines, and, later on, was a notable stronghold of the Wytulian heresy. The King died in B.C. 77.
It would be unprofitable to weary the reader with even an epitome of the reigns of the uninteresting Rájas who successively “raised the canopy of dominion' at Anuradhapura. They most of them built tanks, suffered more or less from the constant invasions of the Malabars, and ended an inglorious life with a violent death. Irrigation, subjugation, assassination, may be said to form a trilogy of incidents monotonously frc quent. The monotony is broken by the misdeeds of a wicked queen, the “infamous Anula, '-the Messalina of Sinhalese annalswhose taste for paramours was as varied as her operations with poison were successful; and by a monarch, Bhatiya Tisa, whose piety was so exemplary, that he, alone of laymen, was allowed to pass through the secret passage of Ruwanveli dagoba and gaze on the wondrous relics and offerings that filled the inmost chamber. Of the rest, twenty-two were killed by their successors, six by others,
* See Part ii, ch. 1.

BURED CITES OF CEYLON. 9
thirteen fell in war, four committed suicide, eleven were dethroned and disappeared. Meanwhile Buddhism flourished amazingly, and largely increased its influence and possessions. Wide districts, fertilized perhaps by the interception of a river and the formation of suitable canals, were appropriated to the use of the local priesthood; a tank, with the thousands of acres it watered, was sometimes assigned for the perpetual repair of a dagoba,
The third great invasion of the Malabars took place about A.D. 106, and the invaders succeeded in carrying back with them, not only vast quantities of plunder, but also 12,000 Sinhalese captives. King Gaja Báhu, however, in A.D. 112, conducted an expedition to the continent, released the captives, and carried back an equal number of prisoners to Ceylon.
But other than mere carnal foes were shortly to gain a foothold in the island, From the very beginning of the third century A.D., a schismatic sect had begun to put forward the doctrines known as the Wytulian heresy; but their attempts had twice been frustrated, and the heretics ignominiously punished. What the exact tenets of this heresy were, the chronicles do not enlighten us; but it was possibly an attempt of the Brahmins of India, to oust Buddhism from Ceylon by the same tactics which they had so successfully used on the continent. In the reign of Gothabaya (A.D. 248) it again made a bid for dominion, and one of its most eminent, though secret adherents got himself appointed tutor to the king's two sons. The younger of these, Mahá Séna, fully profited by the lessons he received, and when he came to the throne, in A.D. 275, set to work at once to supplant the old creed by the new. He forbade the bestowal of offerings on the
C

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0 BURED CITES OF CEYLON.
adherents of the old religion, who were thus forced by hunger and want to fly to the south of the island; he razed to the ground the Brazen Palace and over 300 other buildings, and devoted their materials to the erection of shrines for the new cult, But the v0a populi was strongly opposed to these innovations; the King was not so well supported as was Henry VIII. under somewhat similar circumstances, and was forced to avoid, by a timely and complete recantation, the threatened dangers of a general insurrection. He sacrificed his tutor, Sanghamitra, and his chief supporter among the nobles, to the popular frenzy, rebuilt the edifices he had destroyed, recalled the priests, and devoted the rest of his reign to the erection of gigantic monuments of his new-born orthodoxy. Of these the most conspicuous was the Jetawanáráma dagoba-still the most picturesque and massive ruin in Anuradhapura-which originally was 316, and is still 269, feet high; while the most useful was the great tank at Minnéri, twenty miles in circumference, which was connected by a canal with the large tanks of Kanthalai or Gantalawa, and Kowdelly. He also formed sixteen other tanks, and repaired numerous temples; “ and," says the writer of the Maháwapso, “his destiny after death was according to his merits.' A vast amount of fable and superstition clustered around the name of the deceased monarch, who is called in the chronicles the last of the Mahāwayso,'-the great solar dynasty. The country was visited after his death by a series of bad seasons and disastrous epidemics; the people turned to the memory of the mighty Raja, and implored his protection or deprecated his wrath with prayers and offer,
* See Part ii., ch. 5,

BURIED CTES (...) o CEYLON. 1.
ings; sickness and famine gradually abated; and his grateful worshippers hailed him as “Minneri Deviyo' or “Hat Rajuruv6,' while his shrine at Minneri came to be regarded with peculiar awe and veneration.
The reign of his son, Kirrti Sri Megahawarna, (A.D. 202) was made illustrious by the arrival from Dantapura, in India (probably the modern Juggernath), of the celebrated Daladá, relic, the sacred tooth of Buddha, The King of Kalinga (the modern Orissa), being unable to defend it from the fanatical attacks of the Brahmins, sent it for safekeeping to Ceylon in the charge of his son and daughter, concealed in the folds of his daughter's hair. A. shrine, known as the Daladá Maligawa, was built for it near the Thuipáráma digoba, and a similar shrine of exquisite workmanship received it at Polonnaruwa when the older city was finally vacated.
It was during the reign of his fourth successor, Mahámima, who ascended the throne A.D. 410, that Anuradhapura was visited by the celebrated Chinese traveller, Fa Hian, whose writings are independent evidence of, and strongly corroborate, the truth of the Sinhalese chronicles. He describes the broad, straight streets, the heautiful public buildings, the mountain-like monuments of Buddha, the aspect of the Bo-tree (which is almost literally applicable to its present condition); and the ceremonies which attended the exhibition of the sacred tooth. It was about this time, too, that Ceylon first entered into political relations with China, and paid tribute to that country for over 100 years. Nor was intercourse with the West entirely unknown at this epoch. Ammianus Marcellinus
* For an account of the tooth relic, see “The Wisitor's Guide to Kandy,' by the same author.

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12 BURIED CITIES OF CEYION.
asserts that an embassy was sent from Ceylon to the court of the Emperor Julian in the reign of Mahánáma's predecessor, King Upatissa II; while Pliny makes mention of a still earlier embassy to Italy, which was dispatched in the reign of King Chanda-Mukha-Siwa, A.D. 44-52. t
A long period of Malabar oppression followed the demise of King Mahānāma, the invaders being finally ejected, after a prolonged struggle, by King Dhātu Séna, who mounted the throne A.D. 459. It was at his instance that the Mahawalso was compiled by his uncle and tutor, Mahanaimo Terunnánse, and carried down to the death of Mahasen; and it was this monarch who constructed the enormous tank of Kalavewa.* But his end was a tragic one. He had married his daughter to his nephew, who grossly insulted her; and in revenge the King caused his nephew's mother to be burned. Incensed by this, his nephew and his eldest son raised the standard of rebellion, seized the King's person, and pressed him to reveal his hidden treasures. The King undertook to do so, if he were allowed to visit once more his great tank of Kalivewa, and speak with his early friend, the priest Mahánámo. He was accordingly sent thither, in a nean cart with broken wheels, and under a strong guard, Arrived there, he received much spiritual consolation from the priest, and much bodily consolation from bathing in and drinking the waters; and pointing to his friend and to the tank, exclaimed that these were the only treasures he possessed. Carried back to the capital, he was stripped naked, cast into chains, and built up and embedded in a wall, and Katsyapa, his son, reigned in his stead. “What
* See Part ii., ch, 4.

BURIED CITIES OF CEYION. 8
wise man,” (comments the chronicler) ' would covet riches, life or prosperity after this?' But parricide proved an insecure foundation for dominion. After an unsuccessful attempt to murder his younger brother, Mogallána, who fled to India, Kásyapa feared to live in his open capital, and having strongly fortified the already inaccessible rock of Sigiri, repaired thither, deposited his treasures, and built a palace. In vain he tried to expiate his crime by enriching temples, by forming public gardens, by taking the strictest vows of self-mortification. His avenging brother, returning from India, with an army, enticed the parricide to leave his fortress and risk an engagement near Ambat thalo in the Seven Korales. In the middle of the battle the King turned aside his elephant to avoid a swamp: thinking he was flying, his followers threw down their arms in despair; and the avenger with his own hand struck off the head of his impious brother.
The tragic end of Mogalláina's successor, Kumara Dás (A.D. 515), is worthy of record. One night, when in the house of a courtesan, the King wrote a riddle on the wall, promising to him who could interpret it the fulfilment of any request he might proffer. The celebrated Indian poet, Pandita, Kalidas, visited the courtesan's house soon afterwards, and answered the riddle; but the courtesan, wishing to keep for herself the renown and the reward, murdered the poet, buried him under her house, and claimed the authorship òf the answer. The King, incredulous and suspicious, caused search to be made; the body of Kilidas was discovered, the murderess put to death, and a huge funeral pile was raised to cremate the poet's remains.
* See Part ii, ch. 6,

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14 - BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON,
When the flames were at their height, the King, struck with remorse at the irreparable loss, rushed into the fire and was burned; and his five queens immediately followed his example and were consumed with him.
The reigns of the succeeding monarchs were marked by continual civil discord and Malabar encroachments; until in A.D. 769, King Aggrabódhi IV. found it necessary to fly from the obnoxious invaders, evacuate Anuradhapura, andestablish a new capital at Polonnaruwa. Previous kings had selected this spot as an occasional residence; in A.D. 368. King Upatisa II. had formed the tank of Topávewa in its immediate vicinity; and in A.D. 650 King Siri Sangabo II. built a palace there. The new city , was soon furnished with the necessary means of irrigation, and ornamented with vast religious structures; but the change of capital only served to increase the strength and influence of the Malabars. Each successive monarch held the reins of power with a feebler grasp; famine and disease decimated the cotintry, and Buddhism declined; until in A.D. 1023, the Malabars seized the person of the reigning monarch, carried him, his queen, and his treasures, to India, and established a Malabar Viceroy at Polonnaruwa. The fortunes of the Sinhalese monarchy were at their lowest ebb, but were destined to revive once more, and for the last time. The royal family had taken refuge in Ruhuna, in the south of the island, and a prince of the name of Wijeya Báhu was there crowned King of Ceylon in A D. 1071. He soon showed signs of warlike energy, collected a force, marched against Polonnaruwa, and defeating the Malabars outside its walls, took the city by storm. His efforts to raise the magnificence of the city, reform the priesthood, and re-establish justice and

BURED CITES OF CEYI.ON, 15
order were interrupted by a second contest with the Malabars, who, victorious this time, again seized the city, and razed the palace to the ground. The undaunted king, however, once more besieged the invaders, drove them to the coast, and even perpetrated a short invasion of the country of his hereditary foes. He died in A.D. 1126, and was eventually succeeded in A.D. 153 by his grandson, Parákrama Báhu, who is almost the only notable character of the Polonnaruwan epoch. The early part of his reign was marked by a series of struggles with foes of his own household, from which he emerged triumphant into undisputed sovereignty. Returning to his capital, he devoted himself to the arts of peace, the restoration of religion, and the expansion of architecture. He sent to Siam for priests of the superior rank, which was nearly extinct in the island; and he summoned a Church Council to settle debatable questions of religion; he restored the sacred edifices of Anuradhapura, he built innumerable “Wiharas,” preaching-halls, and rock temples; the most remarkable of these rock shrines, the Galwihara at Polonnaruwa, being at the present day in very much the same state as it is described in the Mahawanso. He also placed guards round the coast and erected fortresses of refuge, raised a wall round the capital which is said to have enclosed an area, twelve miles broad by nearly thirty long, built almonries for the poor at the four gates, and a palace for himself with 4,000 apartments, constructed 1,470 new tanks, and repaired as many old ones. A fresh revolt of his domestic foes again summoned him to the battle-field, and he celebrated his final victory by a magnificent procession which reads like a Roman triumph. The heavenly powers smiled upon his success; for heavy storm broke

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16 BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON.
while the triumph was in progress, and furious rain flooded all the ground but that occupied by the procession, which remained miraculously dry. He next turned his arms against the Kings of Cambodia, and Arramana, (a region lying between Siam and Arracan), who had plundered his merchants and insulted his ambassador. In a pitched battle, his general defeated and slew the Cambodian King, seized his capital, and made the country tributary to his royal master. A second expedition was shortly afterwards dispatched against the allied monarchs of Soli and Párdi, whose headquarters were at Madura in South India. Success again attended the Sinhalese arms; the enemy, in spite of their overwhelming numbers, were repulsed and broken in seven great battles; Rameswaram and the six neighbouring districts fell into the victor's hands, and Págdi paid tribute to Polonnaruwa. The mere recital of these exploits of war and peace, while it fills us with admiration for the last great prince of a fading race, gives us some idea of the command of labour, the density of population, the activity of agriculture in a land which is now a wilderness of barren jungle inhabited by a few fever-stricken villagers. Parákrama, Bahu died in A.D. 1186, in the thirty-third year of his reign. A characteristic statue, commonly assigned to this king, still stands, cut from a solitary rock, about a mile and a half to the south of the city which owed to him all its glory. The King (if it is he) has his back turned to the city, and holds in his hand the open “book of the law,' as if to imply that more consolation is to be found in religious meditation than in the construction of many monuments.
With this great monarch's reign the power and prestige of the Sinhalese monarchy virtually terminates.

BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON. 17
King Kirti Nissanga, who came to the throne in A.D. 1192, gained high renown by the attention he devoted to religious edifices. He repaired and enlarged the rock temples of Dambulla, and caused the huge Galpota, or inscribed stone, twenty-five feet long by four broad and two thick, to be carried by his “strong men" from Mihintale to Polonnaruwa, a distance of over 80 miles, After his death the clouds of invasion closed in thick and fast over the ill-fated realm. In A.D, 1219 a huge expedition of 24,000 men from the Northern Circars overran the land, placed their leader on the throne, tortured and mutilated the inhabitants, and destroyed a large number of Buddhist monuments, making the island, says the chronicle, “like a house filled with fire or thieves.' They were destined never to be again ejected. In A.D. 1240 the seat of Government had to be transferred to Damba. deniya, and thence to Yápahu, to Kurunegala, to Gampola, to Kandy, and finally to Cotta, near Colombo; and it was at this latter place that news was brought to the King, (A.D. 1552) that a ship had anchored near Colombo containing “a race of men surpassingly white and beautiful, wearing boots and hats of iron, eating a white stone and drinking blood, and having guns which could break a castle of marble.' But with the landing of the Portuguese, and the vast importance of its results, we have nothing to do; the “great cities' of the Empire were deserted or in the hands of foreigners, the great tanks were broken and their fields lay barren, the Sinhalese monarchy existed but in name, when the white man landed on the coast, destined ultimately to restore fresh energies to the dwindling race, and create for it a new and nobler history of progress and civilization.

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8 BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON.
Two or three general questions will naturally occur to the traveller who explores these magnificent ruins:-
I. Who were the artists whose skill and taste in sculpture are to be found over such an extensive area? It must be remembered that though the Sinhalese and Tamils are ethnologically distinct races, the connexion between them was, from the earliest ages, very close. The two first rājas sought wives from the Indian continent; their new acquisitions were colonized by Indian adventurers; and the religion of the island was, until the arrival of the Buddhist missionary Mahindu, probably Hinduistic to a very large degree. The traveller who has visited the great shrines and ruins of Southern India, more especially the Seven Pagodas, south of Madras, cannot fail to be struck by the similarity of many of the characteristics of Anuradhapuran sard, still more clearly Polonnaruwan) architecture with the carvings to be found on the continent. Whatever the date of these latter may be, it seems more rational to suppose that both the designs and the artists came from the continent to Ceylon than vice versa. Moreover, the Sinhalese, both educated and uneducated, are ready to allow that the sculptors were imported Tamils; and the existence of several villages of Tamil 'gal-wadu was ' (stone-carvers) seems to confirm this admission. Further, if the Sinhalese were the artists, it is curious that all traces of the art should have utterly died out among them; while that the Tamils are most cunning sculptors to the present day, is amply" proved by many parts of the great Madura temple, which were executed almost within the memory of living man. The only difficulty is that the design of the pillars, which play so important a part in the Sin

BURLED CITIES OF CEYLON. 19
halese ruins, appears to be confined to the island, but the ornaments on their capitals are obviously Hindu
Even the sacred goose is to be found in a precisely similar form among the animals represented on the celebrated carving at the Seven Pagodas known as the Penance of Arjuna. It is just possible that the absence of all remains of carving-tools, chisels, &c., is to be accounted for by the fact that as most of the skilled workmen were imported from the continent, they carried their tools away with them when they returned to their own land. Lastly, it is distinctly stated in the Maháwaqso that King Prákrama Báhu (A.D. 1115) “brought Damilo artificers' from the opposite coast of India, to decorate Polonnaruwa, and no comment is made on this as an unusual proceeding.
TI. Where did the stone come from, and how was it transported? The stone used in the ruins is nearly all granite and syenite, with a small proportion of limestone. Most of this was found in the immediate neighbourhood of the town; nearly all the layers of rock which crop up W in several places in the surrounding jungles bearing marks of the wedges by means of which the pillars and large blocks were detached. Elephants were probably employed to transport these heavy weights; though, as we know from the chronicles that wheeled vehicles were in use, they may also have been carried on trucks dragged by large bodies of men, after the manner of the Ninevite paintings. How such a weighty mass as the stone canopy was raised into position without (so far as we know) the aid of cranes and pulleys, it is hard to say,
* See Part ii., ch. I.

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20 BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON.
It is possible that the sustaining pillars were first placed in position, the space between them filled with earth, an inclined plane (of earth) made from the ground to the top of this mound, the canopy prized up it and placed in position, and the earth dug away from underneath,
III. The state of ruin to which all the buildings are reduced is generally ascribed entirely to the malignity of the Tamils. No doubt a great deal of it is due to their iconoclastic zeal; but in justice to them it must be remembered that there were two other agents of destruction, less violently aggressive, but more persistent, (1.) Polonnaruwa is a striking instance of the harm that can be done by roots of trees, especially by members of the fig family. A seed finds its way to some crevice or niche, and in a few years the tree which springs from it throws upwards a heavy trunk and branches, and downwards a perfect cataract of snaky roots, which force their way through bricks and between stones, loosen every joint of the building, and eventually bring the whole structure with a crash to the ground. (2.) The Sinhalese, possessed with such weighty notions of a superstructure, had (except in the case of the largest dagobas) the very mildest idea of a foundation. Consequently the great weight above aided and increased the natural subsidence of the earth during many centuries; and the result is that many of the ruined buildings now look as if they had been displaced by an earthquake.
The exploration of the ruins of the two large cities, so far from being completed, has in reality only just begun. Such as remain of the large and important structures have no doubt been discovered; buG equal interest

BURE) CITES OF CEYLON, 21
attaches to, and perhaps more information may be gleaned from, the smaller and less obvious fragments and details every acre that is cleared discloses some of these, and it is not too much to hope that a continued course of intelligent excavation may not only bring to light still more interesting remains, but enable us eventually to form some idea of the shape, dimensions and general appearance of two of the greatest cities of the East,

Page 27

PART II.
TODOGRADICAL.

Page 28

CHAPTER II,
DAM BULLA,
Gaia HE visitor who is wise and enterpriating
R enough to make a pilgrimage to Dambulla, SS ܐܲܬ݂ܵܐ Sigiriya or Polonnaruwa, will leave Kandy R. for Matale by train on the first day of his
travels. There is a good resthouse here where breakfast or tiffin can be got, if ordered beforehand, Matale (Post and Telegraph Office) is an exceedingly pretty little town, the capital of the district of Matale, which is a division of the Central or Kandy Province, and the residence of an Assistant Government Agent and Police Magistrate. The long straggling bazaar, offensive to the nose, is picturesque to the eye, and a large trade is done here with coolies from the estates around.
If he has the afternoon to spare, the visitor, after depositing his baggage at the resthouse, cannot do better than pay a visit to the Aluvihira Temple, which is two miles down the main road in the North of Matale. A guide can be got from the resthouse to show the turn-off. The temple is beautifully situated amid a jungle of gigantic boulders, under the slope of one of which the principal shrine is built. It is remarkable historically as being the

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23 UTRIRI) ("ITES OF (FYION.
place where the sacred words of Buddha, were first put into writing. It is worth while going to the very top of the rocks to see the view, which is extensive and characteristic. There are also a carving of Buddha's footprint and a Yantragala or Mystic stone to be seen there. A horse-coacht leaves Matale at 10 a.m., and, passing through the celebrated coffee and cacao estate of Kawudupelella (6 miles), and the pretty village of Nálande (resthouse, 14 miles) reaches Damhulla (29 miles) at 250 p.m.
As this place contains the largest and most celebrated rock temples in Ceylon, it may be thought worth while to pass the afternoon and night here, and study them. There is a magnificent view to be obtained from the summit of the great rock on which the temples are situated. A guide should be got from the resthouse to point out the little path that leads from the high road to the temple, and notice should be sent to the priest the night before that the keys will be required. Directly after passing a “pansala' or priest's residence, the steep ascent begins, partly up the bare rock and partly up a picturesque stairway. A large brick gateway, called the “ Muragé,' or guard-house, terminates the ascent, and leads on to the rock-platform in front of the temples. The view to be obtained from this point on a clear morning is hardly equalled in Ceylon. The abrupt peak of Dahiyakande rises up close at hand; Ratmalegahakande forms a conspicuous object to the East ; and range upon range of grey mountains, celebrated in the history of the
* See chap. III.
it It is very advisable to write in good time beforehand to the Coach Manager, Matale, and to all Resthouse-keepcr's.

BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON. 27
coffee enterprise, stretch to the horizon in all directions. To the East, the most conspicuous object is the abrupt cylindrical rock of Sigiri, a most curious example of Sinhalese hill-fortification. Below the rock to the S.-E. lie the rich paddy lands with which a succession of pious rājas endowed the famous shrine.
Probably few temples equal those of Dambulla in meanness of approach; the narrow gallery and coarse modern roofing running under the edge of the overhanging rock form a poor introduction to the impressive interior. Before entering, the visitor should glance upwards at the “Kataré,' or ledge formed to keep off the drip of the rain; on the upper edge of which the remains of an inscription in the oldest form of cave character are still visible. A still more curious and lengthy inscription is to be seen inscribed on the rock to the right, immediately after passing the “Muragé." This describes, the reign and the virtues of Rija, Kirti Sri Nissanga (A.D. 1192), the most munificent patron of the temples. One passage in it has a familiar sound:-"Thrice did he make the circuit of the island, and having visited the villages, the towns and the cities, such was the security he established, as well in the wilderness as in the inhabited places, that even a woman might traverse the country with a precious jewel, and not be asked, what is it?'
The entrance to the first temple is close to this inscription. The stone doorway is ornamented with 9, “Makara torana,' or ornamental arch. This temple is called the Déwa Rája Vihara (the temple of the great god); the title not referring to Buddha, but to Vishnu. The interior is very dark, and the eye has to become
* See chap. II,

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28 BURED CITES OF CEYON.
accustomed to the gloom before it discerns the glory of the shrine-the gigantic recumbent figure of Buddha, which, together with the pillow and couch on which it rests, is cut out of the solid rock, and measures 47 feet
in length. The head rests on the right hand, and that again on the pillow, on which is apparent the impression supposed to be made by the head and arm. The soles of the feet are ornamented with lotus-flowers (magullakunu). Near the head of the statue is a wooden image of Vishnu, and two smaller statues of Buddha made of brick. At the feet is a small Buddha, and a wooden statue of Maha Käsappa. This shrine is said to have been made by King Walagam Báhu who reigned at Anuradhapura about B.C. 80. An invasion of the Malabars from the continent forced him to fly from his throne and hide in the caves of Dambulla. After many years of concealment, he sueceeded in regaining his throne, and gratefully embellished his rocky asyium. The statue of Vishnu in the chamber is held to be of peculiar sanctity; and at the present day the ordeal by oath, and even by hot oil, is practised before it.*
The next temple, called the Maha Vihire, or great temple, is by far the finest and largest of the five. It measures 160 feet by 50, and its greatest height is about 23 feet, the roof sloping downwards towards the back of the cave, where it is only four feet high. The first impression of the cave when the doors are opened is very striking: the cooliness, the gloom, the circle of sedent Buddhas dimly visible, and the death-like
* The visitor who wishes to study the History of Buddhism, and its relations to Hinduism, is referred to Bishop Copleston's work on Buddhism, and the handbooks to Buddhism and Hinduism by Prof. Rhys Davids and Sir M. Moniec Williams.

BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON. 29
stillness, combine to produce a superstitious feeling which the true believer translates into reverence. Note the roof paintings; in the centre, Buddha in glory, worshipped by gods; to the left, Buddha assaulted by the powers of evil. There are 53 statues in all, most of them exceeding lifesize. On the left of the entrance is a well-proportioned digoba, surrounded by sedent Buddhas, some of which have a canopy formed by the hooded cobra. Past the dagoba to the left there is a large statue of King Walagam Bihu, who is said to have begun this great shrine; and facing it, on the roof, are depicted Buddha's wars with demons, the story of his life, and the worship, paid him by various divinities. Opposite to the King, among some curtains, is an upright figure of Buddha and canopy, both cut from the solid rock. There are some curious frescoes at the back of the line of statues that face the entrance first come three Hindu divinities, Gana or Ganesha, Kattragam and Wibhishana; then a long procession of Rahat (Illuminati) priests; then a painting of King Dutugemunu and his relations; and close to it, the great combat between that monarch and the Malabar usurper, Elala. The latter has just received his death-wound from the king's javelin, and is being held on his elephant by an attendant. The Swords in the hands of the fighting men are exactly similar to that dug up in the bund of Kaliwewa tank, though widely different from the Sinhalese sword of the present day. At the eastern extremity of the cave there is a small recess covered with historical paintings. The landing of Wijeya-an outlaw dprince from India--who is said to have arrived in Ceylon with a few followers in B.C. 543, conquered the aborigines, (the picture which represents the queen on her war horse cut
* Sec Part II., chap. 4.

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30 BURED CITES OF CEYLON.
ting off the aborigines' heads is curious), and established the Sinhalese in the Island,—the planting of the Bó tree at Anuradhapura, the dedication of relics to the Ruwanweli dågoba at the same place, and of the island to Buddha, figured by a king guiding an elephanti-plough, are represented on the walls with more attention to history than proportion; as the fish in the ocean which Wijeya is crossing are considerably larger than the vessel which carries him, and the heads of the worshippers at the digoba overtop the building, which in reality is more than 200 feet high. Not far from this recess, on the southern side of the cave, is a large wooden statue of Rája Kirti Sri Nissanga, to whom the shrine owes most of its glories, and near it is a huge modern image of the recumbent Buddha. Opposite this statue, and towards the middle of the cave, is a small stone enclosure, containing a vessel which catches water that drips from a fissure in the roof. The fissure is ornamented with paintings of fish, and the water is used for temple purposes.
The remaining chambers are by no means so interesting or imposing as the two first. The third is known as the “ Maha Alut Wihára” or great new wihára, and is 78 feet long, and from 30 to 60 feet broad. There are 54 statues altogether in this chamber, including a large reclining figure of Buddha, near the western wall, built of brick and about 30 feet long; and near the northern wall a wooden statue of Raja Kirti Sri Nissanga, with a curious stone sedent Buddha, unfinished, at its foot. In the centre of the chamber there is a large stone sedent Buddha under a stone canopy.
The fourth chamber or “Paspilime Wihira ” is of smaller dimensions, being about 40 feet lcng by 30 broad.

} U' tRI«:) ( 'I"' F> „OEN ('FEYʻ,()N. 3.
It contains several statues of Buddha, and a small digoba with a copper top. It is worth going into, if only to look at the wooden doorway to the right-hand side of the main entrance, which is covered with old and curious carving.
The fifth chamber is of very much the same size, but quite modern, having been constructed by a Kandyan chief in the early part of last century. It contains a gigantic Buddha, about 35 feet long, and several smaller statues.
The Buddhist priests are directly forbidden by their creed to receive money : a prohibition which does not, it is feared, prevent their greedily demanding gratuities from strangers.

Page 32

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CHAPTER II.
SGR.
HE fortified rock of Sigiriya is so well worth a visit, especially now that the excavation of the ruins there is complete, that the visitor must not be deterred by OOO what must be admitted to be the considerable difficulty of getting there. It lies 11 miles N.N.E. of Dambulla. The first two miles are along the metalled road that runs due North to Anuradhapura. There the metalled road to Trincomalee branches off to the East; and after going down that road for four miles, the visitor arrives at a small hamlet called Inamaluwa, just beyond which a gravelled road to the right turns off to Sigiriya, which is five miles and a half away to the N.N.E. The metalled roads are always in excellent order, but the same cannot be said of the gravelled road, which in dry weather is heavy with sand, and in wet weather with mud. The easiest way of doing the journey is on a bicycle (which can be conveyed by coach to Dambulla). It is usually possible to bicycle along the jungle road, and thus tie whole journey takes under two hours, F

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34 BUTRIED CITIES OF CEY.ON.
Failing a bicycle, it is best to go in the Trincomalee coach as far as Inamaluwa, whence the walk to Sigiriya and back, being mostly in the shade of the forest, is by no means impossible. Or a carriage and pair can be hired at Matale to go as far as Inamaluwa (but this is a costly proceeding: for terms apply to the Resthouse keeper, Matale). There remain the two alternatives of walking all the way-possible but very fatiguing-and of going on horseback-the best way of all, but involving the possession of horses, as none are hireable at Matale or Dambulla.
There is a small resthouse at Sigiriya, where food and accommodation can he got, on notice being given beforehand. The pleasantest time of year to make the expedition is from the middle of January to the middle of March. July and August are to be avoided owing to the high wind then prevailing. In very dry weather ticks are unpleasantly numerous; but they can be more or less guarded against by wearing high boots and by the use of strong carbolic soap.
The curious cylindrical rock rises abruptly from the plain to a height of about 400 feet, and the traveller will get a good view of it about a quarter of a mile before reaching the resthouse. From the resthouse he will proceed to the foot of the bund, which he will notice is out of all proportion to the small tank below, and marks the remains of a far more important irrigation work. Following the narrow track along the bund, he will reach at the other end of it, the steep path that leads up to the large main terrace below the rock. (The way is not difficult to find, but it is just as well to secure a village-guide at the resthouse.)

BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON. 35
He should then work round below the rock from S. to N. till he comes to the stone cistern (commonly known as the King's Bath), whence he will get a fine view of the recent excavations along the lower W. face of the rock, showing the two stairways by which access was obtained to the rock gallery that led round the rock to the palace on the summit. Above this gallery he will see the very curious and unique “gallery of frescoes,' a description of which is given later. Several of the figures can be plainly seen, and a preliminary idea obtained of the natural difficulties which the artist had to contend with.
Of the two staircases leading down from the rock gallery, Mr. Bell says:-
“Working from the Rock scarp a few yards south of the existing ascent into the 'gallery' at the wide grooves which once held the 'gallery' walls, the parties very soon struck two sets of stairs (quarte here again) branching off south-west and north west and descending by a series of level landings and flights of steps. These stairs have been slowly followed-each with its flanking brick wall to the right of the ascent-down to the terrace immediately above the Audience Hall' and Cistern' rocks.
“The southern descent manifestly runs along the slope of a south-westerly spur of the Great Rock, and finally curls inwards at the bottom, fully 10 ft. below present ground level.
“That on the north-six flights of steps at least, with intermediate landings-mounts straight up due east from the ground just outside a stone gateway a little north-east of the 'Audience Hall, until, nearing the Rock, it con

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86 BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON.
verges to the south-east, and probably met the termination of the south approach at the 'gallery.'
“Some of these quartz staircases had as many as twenty to thirty steps, beautifully dressed, and several are still in excellent preservation.'
The visitor should descend to his left below the “Cistern' rock, and inspect the magnificent rock-cut “Audience Hall' and the smaller stone throne at its foot. Notice the round stone at the back of this throne, where possibly the umbrella-bearer stood. Amid the stillness of the jungle and the absolute desolation of the spot, it is curious to picture the bright pageants and stately ceremonies that once enlivened this striking place of assembly. To the left of the “Audience Hall,' and immediately under the “Cistern,' is a curious shrine with a stone pedestal where stood a statue of Buddha; and on the roof overhead are remains of the old fresco painting and plaster. Opposite the foot of the Audience Hall is a well-cut stone seat.
Ascending again to the “Cistern,' the visitor should push northwards between some boulders, up a staircase, and along the forest; gradually mounting to the N.W. corner of the upper platform, and so to the excavated rooms on that platform. These rooms were all built on the outer edge of the enclosure; the windows no doubt facing inwards towards the paved courtyard. He will then see the flight of steps leading up towards the (modern) iron ladders, and on either side of these steps will observe three claws and the dew-claw of the gigantic lion which evidently formed the marvel and the eponymous feature of the fortress (Sigiris-Sihagiri, lion rock).

Page 35
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RIED CITIES OF CELON B
Until Mr. Bell unearthed these claws in 1898, there was nothing to show how the rock came by its na Ine, Notice also to the left, high upon the rock, the huge hives of the "Bambil ril, "bees, whose aggressive tendencies were a scrious nuisance to the coolies when work began here in 1895, and necessitated an organised attack with fire balls on the principal hive; since which disastrous day they have relinquished opposition and acquiesced in the British 0ccup3u tion.
The ascent of the rock is very easy, by means of the stout iron ladders and hand rails now provided. It was a very different matter previously to 1894, when the ladders were only jungle slicks tied with jungle rope, and thc rest of the climb had to be accomplished by clinging on with fingers aid toes to the grooves in the rock. These grCoves, of course, formed the stepping for the wall that protected the final approach to the summit.
Mr. Bell gives the following description of the very interesling exenvations on the summit:–
' Directly in front, looking south from the wantage ground of the cast to West cross bank, stretched below as far as the central pokiya, is so much of the lower nirea as lies between the Rock's Ilorth and east edges and the high ridge that occupies the western half of the suimit, Most here is comparatively level-the only level portion of any extent in a citadel where terraced Arrangoment was inevitable from the irregular conformation if the Rock's surface. This area was seemingly illolicd to courtyards, passages, and side rooms Half-way a wilding staircase of three or four flights of steps-the longest on the Rock, and pierced at its head through all flank

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88 BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON.
ing walls-shows the means of direct communication with the upper area to the west. At the side of these stairs is the magnificently carved 'gal-disanaya, or granite throne, discovered in 1895,
“ On the left, skirting the east edge of the Rock, was a range of minor rooms and passages, doubtless communi cating with an outermost corridor, which almost encircled the citadel. This series of side chambers was continued on to near the south end of the Rock, interrupted only at the pond, where extra rooms, &c., intervene.
As I had occasion to note in last year's Report :-
“That part of the ancient citadel lying south of the pond, and east of the high-level strip, was laid out in a series of cross-terraces, east and west, varying in widthand falling away southwards. From the p kuna to the foot of the last staircase at the extreme south are seven or eight distinct terraces. . . . . The centre is taken up with an open courtyard and passages leading to the pond and round it, on either side, by stairs and intermediate landings-all admirably planned to suit the physical conditions, and displaying great ingenuity in turning to full account the limited space and surface inequalities of the Rock's summit,
“More than one of these terraces has been curtailed and hideously disfigured by single-brick walls of later construction--"patched up into a smoothness and smugness' Ruskin forcibly pronounces more tragic than uttermost ruin.
'The lowest staircase-at the south west corner of -
* C.A.S. Journal, vol. XIV, No. 47, 1896, p 25l.

BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON. 39
the Rock-descends with a right angle return to the watch-cave' in the perpendicular crag on this side. The southernmost terrace, to the east of these stairs, was clearly dedicated to Cloacina.
“Of the higher level half of the summit I have already spoken, as containing a succession of apartments, rising in tiers northwards.
“The back bone, as it were, of the citadel is found in the paved way, with steps descending ever and anon, that was carried along its axis from end to end, hugging the retaining wall of the upper ridge, and winding with its angles, but for the most part running straight as an arrow. From this 'spinal column branch off, east and west, staircase ribs, which would render communication between all parts of the citadel easy and rapid ; whilst each section was equally well served by the cunningly designed interconnection of its own component divisions, through a maze of minor passages and stairs.
“No less perfectly planned was the water supply. The rock-hewn pokuna, nearly 30 yards square, centrally situated and accessible from every side, would suffice, when replenished yearly by the north-east monsoon rains, for ordinary requirements during the ensuing dry months. For drinking water resort was had, in all probability, to two at least of the three smaller cisterns close to the Rock's north, south-west, and south-east edges.
“A word or two regarding the architectural construction of the citadel.
“Further lengthening of the deep longitudinal trench, begun last ver from the extreme southern verge, confirms

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40 BURIED CITES OF CEYON.
the impressions that the foundations were throughout the low-level area, in general, of that form of stonework known as 'irregular horizontal,' and run down to the rock core. Upon this rested brick walls, vertical or in batter, plain or moulded, according to position and purpose, but all alike coated thickly with a tough plaster, white and polished, that has resisted the damp in places to this day. The massiveness of many of these walls bespeaks considerable height originally, despite the fact that the brickwork was almost dry-laid and indifferently bonded crosswise. But in 'make these ancient bricks -same a cubit in length-shame most of our modern outturn, being as well burnt as they are sharp and close.
'' Of the system of roofing we know nothing beyond the certainty that it was timbered throughout and flat-tiled, in the style familiar among the Anuradhapura ruins.
“A marked feature of the ground plan is the erratic location of steps. As often as not, they are pushed aside from the centre of the rooms into which they lead, and relegated to all sorts of odd corners. This vagary was no doubt forced upon the architects by the unconformable surface of the rock, which had to be reckoned with
everywhere.
“But noteworthy, above all, is the complete absence of monolith pillars and stone-carved doorways, the most salient characteristic of ancient structures in the Island. Whilst quart Zous steps and flagstones were lavishly employed to enhance the beauty of this peerless citadel, not one fragment of column, door-frame, or window-sash in stone has come to light on Sigiri-gutlet. Above the floor all was of brick or wood. As for gneiss

BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON. 41
with the sole exception of the noble throne above mentioned-like silver in the days of Solomon- it was nothing accounted of," and finds no place in Kásyapa's citadel.'
Descending by the way he came, the visitor should strike up towards what is left of the great gallery by the northern approach. This flight of steps is incomplete, and he must cross over to the southern flight, which will lead him to the transit of rock grooves, ending in the iron ladder which lands him on the gallery floor. It is unnecessary to expatiate on the skill and boldness of this engineering marvel; it forms a very striking commentary upon an epcch and a civilisation of which we are lamentably ignorant; and we are as puzzled to account for the conception as for the execution of such a weird undertaking. The plaster on the high retaining wall is still as smooth and brilliant as on the day when it was applied; and some of the names and inscriptions that are scribbled on it have at least the excuse of dating back to the age of the original builders.
High above this gallery is the famous picture gallery, justly considered inaccessible until, in 1889, Sir A. Gordon determined to have the frescoes copied, and entrusted the task to the competent hands of Mr. A. Murray, P.W.D. This is Mr. Murray's account of his successful attempt to reach the gallery :-
“Holes were jumped into the rock face, one above the other, as the timber staging was carried up, and iron jumpers driven home and secured with cement. To these the staging was lashed and rendered secure. Once the chamber was reached a hemp rope ladder with wooden rungs was made fast to stout iron stanchions sunk into the floor of thu chamber itself and made as rigid as possi
G

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42 BURED CITES OEF CEYLON,
ble by attachment to the staging. The erection of the staging was by no means an easy matter. . . . . . . . . . . . It was found that the floor of the 'pocket' was at too steep an angle to admit of any one sitting, much less standing. Iron stanchions were therefore let into the floor, and a strong trestle, or framework, made secure to them. On this was placed a platform, from which the work of copying the frescoes was carried out. The frescoes being painted on the roof and upper sections of the sides of the chamber, the staging, as erected, made it only possible to copy them by lying at full length on back or side.'
Mr. Murray secured copies in coloured chalks of 13 out of the 17 frescoes; but it remained for Mr. Bell, and his talented draughtsman, Mr. Perera, to obtain, in 1896-97, facsimile oil paintings of all the frescoes, and also to paint the caves from mid-air, This daring feat was accomplished as follows :-
“A 4-in, hawser was lowered to the ground from the summit over the west cliff (which here projects considerably), and a strong iron block bound to the end. Through this block a 2-in. rope was passed, and an improvised chair firmly tied on to it; the hawser was then pulled half way up the Rock scrap. Hauled up thus, one swung in the air upwards of 150 ft. above the ground, and 50 ft, clear of the cliff,
“Instantaneous photographs were tried, but with little success, owing to the strong wind and an indifferent drop-shutter.
“On the other hand, after a week's rocking in space, Mr. Perera completed an excellent little oil paint

BURED CTIES OF CEYON 48
ing, to scale (about ind). This shows at a glance the relative position of the several figures.'
Of the frescoes themselves, Mr. Bell says:-
“Only three pigments were used, yellow, red, and green, though black seems to have been given a trial as background to one figure, No. 14 “B.' The particular shades of these colours predominating the paintings may best be realized from the modern corresponding media employed by Mr. Perera in copying them, viz., chromeyellow, yellow ochre, raw sienna, burnt sienna, raw umber, light red, Indian red, sap green, terra vert, lamphlack, and flake white.
“The entire omission of blue is very remarkable, and difficult to account for, as this colour enters freely into the sister paintings at Ajanta.
“The scene intended to be pourtrayed would seem to be a procession of the queens and princesses of Kasyapa's court, with their attendants, on the way to worship at the Buddhist viháré at Pidura-gala, the hill lying about a mile north of Sigiriya. The figures are manifestly all moving in that direction, and the flowers held in their hands by the ladies, and carried after them by servantmaids, can hardly bear any other signification. Grouping in pairs is chiefly favoured throughout: usually queen or princess followed by a lady-in-waiting of the same, or kindred, blood, or by a dark-skinned maidservant of alien race. The latter (Nos. 4, 8, 11 of “B”) are given a greenish complexion-a 'badge of servitude which clearly marks them off from the high-born dames, their mistresses, whether pale-yellow 'blondes' or orangehued 'brunettes - all three coloured types reproduced frequently at Ajanta.

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44 BURED CITES OF CEYLON
“The type of features is Aryan-oval face, thick fleshy lips, but straight, almost Grecian nose and forehead. The almond-eyes of No. I'B' betoken a slight tinge of Mongolian blood."
If the visitor has time in hand, he may with adventage explore the many curious rocks lying in the vicinity of the main rock, where he will find frequent and interesting remains of the old life-cave-dwellings, steppings innumerable for walls, pieces of fresco, and outer lines of defence: and he should particularly inspect the very remarkable “Preaching Rock,' lying E.N.E. of Sigirigala, with its triple pulpit and intricate wall-lines.

Page 40
"wi또 「1뜨"H CJ*준 「1(M」* : E또|1**는LE
 

CHAPTER III
AN URADHAPURA
Province-the second largest province in Ceylon, having an area of 4,016 square miles. This province was created by Governor Sir William Gregory in 1873, it having formerly been an appendage of the Northern Province. Its first administrator was the Hon. Sir J. F. Dickson, H. C.M.G.; afterwards Colonial Secretary of the Straits Settlements, It has a scattered population of 75,333, the large IIIajority of whom are Sinhalese, though the Tamils are rapidly on the increase; Lind the cultivation of paddy is the almost universal occupation of both races. The town is situated
on a level plain at an elevation of 312 feet above the sea,
and has a present population of about 2,508, comprising a large number of Moorien, who are the chief "boutiquekeepers" and traders of the place. The average mean temperature for the last 10 years is S0-1; the hott.cst months being March and April; while the annual rains extend from October to the end of the year, The average annual rainfall is 51'6G inches, It is the headquartels of

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46 , BURED CITES OF CEYLON.
the only two Revenue Officers in the Province-the Government Agent and Assistant Goverment Agent; who also combine judicial duties. The amount of new land which, thanks to an enlightened irrigation policy, is being cleared and planted on all sides in the neighbourhood of the town, will strike the most casual observer.
The newly-opened railway now spares the visitor the tedious coach drive from Matale, The train service will be found in an Appendix. The Anuradhapura resthouse is newly built and decidedly comfortable and well-found. During the tourist season, a telegram with reply prepaid, enquiring whether a room is available, is by far the wiser course, as the accommodation is limited, and the influx of travellers considerable.
A guide can be procured at the resthouse, and also a spring bullock-cart and pair of bulls, or a horse and carriage, at rates fixed by the Government Agent.
It may be as well to point out here that the following description of the ruins is rather popular than exhaustive and scientific; and that the traveller who has time to spare and wishes to make a study of the subject, cannot do better than purchase the seven Archaeological Reports brought out by Mr, H. C. P. Bell (Archaeological Commissioner,) which are furnished with admirable plans and diagrams, and can be purchsed at a most reasonable price from the Government Record Office, Colombo.
The visitor may conveniently begin operations by inspecting the so-called Rrazen Palace, which is a vast

BURIED CITES OF CEYLON. 47
collection of monolithic granite pillars 1,600 in number, standing about 12 feet out of the ground, and arranged in lines of 40 each way. They cover a space measuring 231 feet 2 inches from North to South, and 232 feet 2 inches from East to West. The pillars are rough and undressed (the corner pillars being more than double the size of the rest) and retain the marks of the wedges by which they were split off in the quarry; they were probably coated with chunam, and perhaps covered with copper. They found the foundations of the Lówámahapāya or Great Brazen Palace, erected by King Dutugemunu in the 2nd century B.C., and supported a building nine stories in height, containing 1,000 dormitories for priests and other apartments. The roof of this vast monastery was of sheet copper; the walls, says the native chronicle, were embellished with beads resplendent like gems, the great hall was supported on golden pillars resting on lions; in the centre was an ivory throne, with a golden sun and a silver moon on either side; and above all glittered the imperial “ Chatta,' the white canopy of dominion. The monastery was reconstructed, and reduced to 7 stories in height, in B.C. 140; and in A.D. 301 was pulled down by the apostate Rája, Maha Sen; but penitently restored by him on his recantation. Its last restoration took place in the reign of King Prakrama, Báhu, towards the close of the twelfth century.
At the South-Eastern corner of the Brazen Palace is a collection of huge monolithic capitals, carved with most grotesque designs, of which the visitor will be reminded when he goes to Isurumuniya. On the opposite side of the Sacred Road which passes the Palace, is an oblong enclosure with a plain entablature and a few detached

Page 42
  

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50 BURIED CITES OF CEYLON,
-which is also an emblem common to all the ruined stairways. Entering the grove, there is a large stone image of Buddha to the right, and several images to the left, all more or less dilapidated. In the southern part of the grove are eight recumbent pillars (monoliths) of excellent workinanship. The Sacred Tree itself-a straggling and feeble specimen compared to some of its congeners in the grove-is surrounded by three tiers of terraces. On the eastern side of the first terrace is a ruined brick sedent figure of Buddha. The main approach to the second terrace is on the west side, the arch of the doorway being surrounded by a “Makara Torana..' The leaves which fall from the Sacred Tree are highly esteemed as relics by the thousands of pilgrims who come to worship it during the full moons of June and July.
A little to the south of the Sacred B6-tree, on the right-hand side of the Kuru:cgua Road, there is a circle of very fine monolithic pillars with elaborate capitals, surrounding a low mound. These mark the site of a sacred building-a Vihára - miscalled the Mayurapaya, or Peacock Palace, built in the first century of the Christian era, and popularly said to be so named from the luxuriance of the precious stones and metals that adorned it. Still further south, on the same side, is a huge mound which marks the tomb of Elala. Nearly opposite to the Peacock Palace is the Government Civil Hospital.
Proceeding northwards from the B6-tree down the Sacred Road, the visitor passes on his left a ruin known as the 'Adahaná Sáláwa,' or place of cremation of the Kings; and soon after, on his right, a somewhat similar ruin, popularly called the “Wirawitta Sáláwa,' or place
* See part I, p. 6.

BURIED CITIES OF CRYION. 5.
of lamentation for the Royal Family. Near this are three recumbent stone bulls, of various sizes and great antiquity. Sinhalese women believe that by turning one of these completely round, they will avert barrenness. One of these bulls, apparently, used formerly to revolve on a pivot, a sensible aid towards the fulfilment of the mystic rite. 'urther up the road there is a curious stone sarcophagus, said by tradition to have been King Dutugemunu's medicine bath, and measuring 7 ft. 2 in. long by 2 ft. 6 in. wide; and beyond is an enclosure of small square pillars surrounding a large raised slab of granite, said to have been the couch on which Dutugemunu passed his last hours, within view of his proudest monument-the Ruwanveli. At the back of this enclosure there is a large Mitragala of exquisite workmanship.
Immediately opposite to this slab is the main entrance to the Ruwanveli (golden-dust) digoba. This was begun by King Dutugemunu, about B.C. 161, partly to celebrate his victory over the Tamil usurper Elála, it partly from a superstitious desire to carry out an ancient prohphecy. It was completed by his successor, Saddhá, Tissa, in B.C. 140. Its original outline was destroyed by the Malabars A.D. 1214. Its present height is about 150 feet, with a diameter of 379 feet. It is now being restored by the pious contributions of pilgrims, and the zealous efforts of the Chief Priest. Passing through the principal gateway (called “muragé,” or guard-house, and lately restored), the visitor should turn to the right for a few yards and look at the curious circular “pokuna" (bathing place), the only one of its kind in the ruins. It measures 60 feet
* Forbes' Eleven Years in Ceylon, 2nd ed., Wol. 1., p. 213. f See part I,

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52 BURED CITES OF CEYON
in diameter at the surface, by 25 feet deep; and the gradually concentrating layers of granite blocks are still very perfect. Returning to the main approach, he comes to a second (ruined)' mura-gé'; and to the right of its stairway will see two large stone lotus plants. There is a fine frieze of lions running along the upper border of the platform.
The dagoba was originally surrounded by two large paved courts or platforms, the inner one raised above the outer. Round the outer side of the inner boundary wall there was originally a complete circle of elephants, made out of brickwork, and coated with chunam ; each elephant being furnished, says the Mahawanso, with tusks of real ivory, Most of these figures have fallen away beyond recognition; but in some few the shape of the animal is still plainly discernible. Near the N.E. angle of the outer enclosure is a huge octangular granite pillar -the largest monolith in the ruins-which is said to have been removed by King Dutugemunu from the centre of the area now covered by the Ruwanveli, and to have borne an ancient inscription and prophecy, that on this spot a superb digoba, should be raised by a pious and fortunate monarch, which attracted the superstition of the King. There is a small 'viháre” or temple at the termination of the main Eastern approach, which contains nothing of interest except a small recumbent figure of Buddha brought by devotees from Siam. Round the outside of the 'viháre," near the ground, runs a remarkable frieze of grotesque figures in high relief. Proceeding to the left, round the base of the dagoba, there are five large upright statues and a small sedent one; the latter still bearing traces of the gilding which once covered it,

BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON. 53
The tallest statue is said to be of King Dutugemunu. Further on is a statue in the attitude of adoration, facing the dágoba which is said to represent King Bhátiya Tisa, who reigned at the dawning of the Christian era, and was the only layman ever permitted to enter the underground passage and explore the wonders of the inner treasurechamber of the Ruwanveii. The entrance to this passage is said to be marked by a small pit and mound, with stone ruins, about 60 yards to the south of the outer boundary wall. The small granite digoba, near Bhatiya Tisa's statue is said to have been made as a model for the larger structure. There is a large stone altar on the N.S.E., and W. sides of the digoba, that to the west being the most perfect; and several smaller altars and broken statues. Many traces of the gaudy painting which formerly adorned (or disfigured) these altars may still be seen; and it should be remembered that the whole dagoba was originally pure white, being incrusted with a preparation of lime, coconut water, and the glutinous juice of the “Para” tree (dillena dentada), and taking a polish nearly equal to marble. :ية
The description of the building of this dagoba, takes up a great deal of the early part of the Mahawaqso. It is particularly noted that, as an extra mark of piety, the labour employed upon it was paid for; moreover, as the people were too poor, after the Tamil wars, to make the enormous quantity of bricks required, heaven came to the pious monarch's aid, and, at Sakra's orders, the god
* Sir E. Tennent notices the resemblance between this story and that of the descent of Daniel and King Astyages into the temple of Be', by the privy entrance under the table whereby the priests entered and consumed the offerings made to the idol.- (Bel and the D.agon, Apoch, ch. 1-12.)

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Wismakarma made them in a night at a spot 16 miles distant, and then, taking the form of a lizard, pointed them out in the morning to a Veddá, or aborigine, who was out there shooting with his dogs, and hastened to inform the King of the miracle.
Leaving the Ruwaveli by the western entrance, the visitor should explore the green park which stretches northwards towards the Thuipáráma dagoba. The park is thickly studded with ruins; some of them having probably been the residences of priests connected with the two neighbouring dagobas. Many of the pillars and flights of steps are well worthy of minute inspection.
Immediately to the S.E. of the Thuipáráma are the remains of a large oblong enclosure known as the Daladá. Maligáwa, or Palace of the Tooth. This can be easily recognized by the unique cuneiform mouldings of the capitals of the pillars. This building was erected by King Kirti Sri Megahawarna, in A.D. 311, to receive the Sacred Tooth (Dalada) of Buddha, which was brought over from India in charge of a princess of Kalinga, who concealed it in the folds of her hair; and here it was seen by the Chinese traveller, Fa Hien, about 413 A.D., who minutely describes the ceremonies and processions which accompanied its exhibition to the pious. It is supposed that the moulding on the pillars is meant to represent the sacred relic. The Thúpáráma is the oldest of the great dågobas of Anuradhapura, and the most venerated dagoba in Ceylon. It was built by King Dewánaņpiya Tisa in B.c. 307 to
* It is noticeable that the term used to describe the Weddá is honorific. Perhaps the position of the Saxons in England during the reign of Richard I. may have been analogous to that of the Weddás in Ceylon at this epoch.

BURIED CITIES OF CEYON 55
enshrine the right collar-bone of Buddha. In A.D. 400 King Upatisa, caused a case to be made for it of metal Crnamented with gold; and about fifty years ago a pious priest collected funds from the devout for clearing it of jungle and coating it with chunam, though his dubious restoration is more likely to gain for him the admiration of the devotee than the gratitude of the archaeologist, Its height is 63 feet; it is surrounded by three rows of graceful pillars, with 52, 36, and 40 pillars in each row respectively; all the shafts being monoliths, Ferguson, in his Handbook to Architecture (Vol. I., p. 4), pronounces this dagoba to be "older than any monument now existing on the continent of India."
Fifty yards to the east of the Thripáráma, on the north side of the inner circular-road, is a beautifully carved cistern, 10 ft. long by 5 ft. 3 in, wide and 2 ft. 6 in. deep, made out of a single block of granite, and said to date from the time of Dutugemunu. It was probably used to hold food for the priests; and only three years ago, two korales (or shires) subscribed to fill it with food for the pilgrims of the June full moon. Close to this cistern has now been placed a curious stone known as a “panduorua,' or dyeing-vessel. It is oblong in shape, and has a deep circular hollow at one end, and a small raised platform at the other. This stone was used exclusively for the dyeing of priests' robes: the yellow “pandu,' or dye (formed by boiling various vegetable ingredients) was poured into the hollow, the robes soaked in it, and then laid on the platform in order that the dye might be thoroughly worked into them by means of wooden rollers. The shady road running northwards from the Thuipáráma, leads to the Jetawanarama, and so to... the circular
road; but theGhiareg Liebig.
expedi

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56 BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON.
tion to this road. He will therefore continue on by the inner circular road, passing Basawakkulam tank on his right, and soon after, on his left, the residence of the Assistant Government Agent, that of the Government Agent, and the Kachcheri.
If the visitor is pressed for time he is recommended to omit the first three miles of the outer circular drive, and, instead, to make straight for the Thuipáráma, and from that up the road to the Lankarama Dagoba (see p. 59), and so to the outer circular at the third mile post; and thence along that road as described on p. 59. He will thus see all the important sights of the outer circular by the quickest route. But if he has time to make the complete circuit-and the drive is very attractive-he will start from the Post Office, and passing on the left the entrance to the Experimental Gardens, (which are quite worth a visit) and on the right the Jail (which is built to hold 70 prisoners), the visitor will see on his right the Miriswettiya, Dagoba. This was erected about the middle of the second century B.C. by King Dutugemunu. The reason for its erection gives a curious insight into the character of the pious Raja. He remembered one day that he had on a certain occasion partaken of a common accompaniment of curry known as “ sambal” (wetiya), and made partly of chillies (miris), without offering a share to a priest. Remorsefully anxious to expiate the omission, he was prompted by a miracle to build a great shrine in honor of Buddha, and to call it Miriswetiya, after the viand which had necessitated the atonementi.
The chapel on the western side was excavated some years ago, and is a beautiful specimen of Sinhalese archi

BURIED CITES OF CEYLON. 57
tecture. The ruined brickwork on the top of the chapel probably formed a niche for some image or relic. The other sides of the dagoba, were partially excavated by the Royal Asiatic Society, and the whole dagoba is at the present time being elaborately restored at the expense of a Siamese prince. There are the remains of several shrines and buildings on all sides of the dagoba; the most notable being the collection of sixty-two enormous pillars (thirty-seven of which are still nearly perfect', about 80 yards to the west, which were probably the foundations of the residence of the college of priests attached to the service of the shrine,
The road next leads on to the bund of Tisávewa; the road to the left leads round the bund from west to east. This makes a most pleasant walk, as there is nearly always a breeze, and the ripple of the water against the “rala-pana,' or “wave-catch" is very attractive. The visitor will find himself, after about a mile's walk, close to the Isurumuniya temple, (for which see p. 84) and can return by the Kurunegala road. Tisávewa (vewa=tank) was constructed by King Dewenipiatissa about 300 B.C., and is over three miles in circumference. It was restored in 1878, and is now largely utilised in the cultivation of the surrounding paddy-fields.* The outer circular road, * The following figures show that the restoratien of the three
large tanks in the immediate vicinity of Anuradhapura has had some effect upon the rice supply of the country.
(i) TIsAvEwA. a. r. 9 Extent cultivated before restoration 5 0 0. Extent opened up since restoration 910 2 17
(ii) BASAw AKKULAM. a ، :و ه Extent cultivated before restoration 12 O 0 Extent opened up since restoration 288 1. 2
(Continued on neact page.)

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properly so called, starts from the west of the spill, beyond the bridge, so as to avoid the ancient water-course known as the Yoda-ela or giant's channel: the first mile is devoid of ruins, but is an extremely pretty drive, through low jungle fringed with handsome trees; hares and deer occasionally dart across the path, and troops of monkeys chatter in the branches. Soon after the second milestone, on the left of the road, occurs the first of the (so-called) pavilions. Very little is really known about this, and the four similar buildings between the first and second mile-stones. They are all alike in design, varying only in size and minor details. Each of them has a main entrance facing the east, opening on to a low boundary wall about six feet wide, from which small flights of steps, at the middle of the N. and S. sides, lead into the inner enclosure. Each pavilion consists of two square platforms, of nearly equal dimensions, raised about 2, feet from the ground level, the outside wall consisting of plain, oblong slabs of granite; the two sections being connected by enormous slabs, or landing stones; the largest of which weighs nearly 25 tons. In each case, the eastern platform has no sign of pillars, while the western platform has about 16 narrow columns. Each pavilion is furnished with a pokuna, or small bathing tank, and several annexes. It is presumed that the roof was of timber, as there are no remains of stone rafters. The first pavilion has a small pokuna in the N.E. corner of the enclosure, with a very perfect stone-built chamber or dressing-room.
(Note continued from page 57.)
(iii) NU w ARAvEwA. Extent cultivated before restoration 109 0 0 Extent opened up since restoration": 246 0 35 In addition to this may be added about 150 acres of new land under coconuts, plantains, etc. **

BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON, 59
The second pavilion, a little further down the road, has a fine pokuna to the S.W., and the design of the house is exactly repeated in miniature in a small annexe to the north,
The third pavilion is much larger and more perfect than the two former. It has a fine pokuna, to the S.W., and a small and finely-moulded pillar in the N.E. corner perhaps marks the site of a shrine. To the north there are two annexes, the most easterly of which is very curious and unique, and suggests the idea of a small Court-house or Audience Hall. Notice the hollow circular stone for grinding paddy outside the N.E. corner of the outer enclosure.
The fourth pavilion (1 mile) is on the right-hand side of the road, and of still larger proportions. The porch is very perfect. There is a large reservoir to the south; and a pokuna, with three almost subterranean chambers, to the north. The two tall pillars flanking the connecting pediment have graceful semi-circular capitals. There are annexes to the N. S., and E.
The fifth pavilion is on the left side of the road. The pond is again almost perfect, and some curious drainage pipes of stone are exposed to view. Opposite, there is a large and curious pokuna, and the ruins of several buildings.
From the second to the third mile-stone there are no ruins. Directly after the third mile-stone, a road turning to the right leads to the Lankaráma Dágoba. The visitor will see a continuation of this road running northwards into the jungle; and proceeding some 50 yards along it, will notice on his right a jungle-path, which will conduct him to two sets of cave-dwellings. The brickwork which

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60 BURED CITES OF CEYON.
enclosed them is gone, but the dimensions of each cell can easily be made out. An enormous flat slab, fifteen feet in length, lies at right angles to the first cell, with a long inscription on it. On the summit of the rock at the second set of cells there are four low altars for the reception of flower-offerings; plainly marking the site of some important image or relic.
Following the main road, the visitor passes on his left a high ruined mound popularly known as Dutugemunu's tomb; close to which there is a fine ruin standing on an embankment made of large slabs of stone. This is popularly known as the Queen's Palace, but was undoubtedly a vihára, Atreble row of tall pillars crown the southern boundary. The flight of stone steps leading up to the principal buildings is in fair preservation. The moonstone at the base is a good specimen; each step is ornamented with a row of three quaint male figures; and on either side of the landing stone at the top is a wellexecuted carving of a lion in high relief and in the conventional attitude. On the platform itself are twenty. four stone pillars. A little farther on is a collection of eighty pillars about seven feet high, arranged in rows of ten; and twelve much taller ones in close proximity. These were probably the foundation pillars of the monastery attached to the shrine. At the back of them there is a large “pokuna.”
A little further down the road, to the right, there is a sedent Buddha, about five-and-a-half feet high, but very much mutilated; and beyond this, on the same side (at the 3 mile post) is a square' Mantragala 'stone with nine square holes in its upper surface at regular intervals. * See Miller's Ceylon Inscriptions, pp. 27, 73,109.

BURIEI) CITIES OF CEYLON. 61
It is impossible at present to pronounce authoritatively as to the actual use and meaning of these curious stones. Formerly they were called “Yogi" stones, and were supposed to have been used by ascetics for purposes of mystic devotion and second sight. But this is rendered improbable by the positions in which some of them have been found, and by the fact that one at least, if not more, was covered by a heavy stone slab. It seems clear that these stones were always square, and always divided into either 9 or ; 5 partitions; that probably they were laid down within shrines, below the floor, and covered with a slab upon which rested the cisanaya, or pedestal, of the image, or other object of worship; that they were talismans against demoniac influences; that the 9 and 25 divisions had various mystic and astrological significations.*
There is a similar stone to this, with twenty-five small squares in the compound of the Government Agent's residence; a second near the reading-room and the stone bulls; and a third at the new excavations near the stone canopу.
To the south-east of this stone an enormous ' pokuna' is visible, which is known as the Elephants' Bathing Tank.f. Nearly opposite, on the left-hand side of the road, is a beautiful stone canopy, restored in 1886. The square centre-piece is particularly perfect, and perhaps the finest specimen of moulding in the ruins. The upper surface of the centre-piece measures 6 ft. by 7 ft, 3 in., with an
* See Mr. Bell's Seventh Report to Government, 'Appendix A.
t There is a tendency in local tradition to presume that everything particularly large was intended for and used by
-a hypothesis not supported by investigatin,

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伐2 BUTRIED CITIES OF EYON.
inside depth of moulding of about 1 ft. 7 in...; while the total weight must exceed five tons. Excavations have lately been carried on all round it, which resulted in the discovery of three "Sannas' or inscribed stones. The inscriptions are of the 10th centrury. Two of them are in excellent preservation; one is framed, and the other two have plain edges. The slab with a framed inscription measures 6 ft. 8 in. by 3 ft. 8 in, inside the frame. The other two measure 9 ft. by 3 ft. 9 in, and 7 ft. 3 in, by 4 ft. 2 in. respectively.
An enormous limestone slab measuring 16 ft. 10 in. by 6 ft. 1 in, has been turned up near the third “Sannasa," and also a large number of pillars, stairways, and fragments of the canopy; some of which were found as deep as seven feet under ground. But the whole place has been terribly and wilfully destroyed; and it possibly is rendered more puzzling by the remains of a second, or even a third, restoration.
Shortly after this, the road leads past a large collection of ruins, the most noticeable among them being the three “stone canoes,' as they are called, which were possibly used to contain the food provided for the priests at the King's expense. Two are monolithic, the larger of them measuring 16 ft, by 3 ft. 7 in. The third one, which has been restored in modern times, measures 62 ft. 9 in. by 4 ft. 4 in. There are traces of large buildings on every side, and the ground is red with broken tiles and bricks. w
In the jungle exactly opposite to the “stone canoes," some interesting discoveries have been made. There is a large sedent Buddha, about 300 yards from the road to

BURIED CITIES OF UEYLON. 63
the eastward, in very fair preservation, and about 7 feet high. To the right of, and about 100 yards from, this statue, is a large collection of pillars, which evidently formed a great central hall or temple, with three large annexes. Notice the beautiful stairway and landing stone which are at the entrance to the central hall. As everything here, steps, landing-stone, door-guardian, and pillars, is on the largest scale, it was no doubt an important place; but has not yet been identified. From the sedent Buddha, close to this temple, a path now leads to two other fine buildings, about 200 and 300 yards distant, The first is oblong in shape, with very large monolithic pillars, the capitals elaborately carved. Notice the kneeling-stone, or granite fald-stool, in the centre of the building. The second “viháre" differs in design: the platform is square; and along two sides of it, from East to West, run three rows of very tall monolithic pillars, with decorated capitals, leaving a broad space down the centre. They evidently supported a pagoda, or dome-shaped roof. Some portions of a bold, panelled frieze, which apparently ran round the inner boundary of the platform, have been unearthed, and lie around. This is one of the most picturesque spots in the ruins; the graceful pillars slope in all directions, the floor of the platform heaves and undulates as though from an earthquake shock, the “moonstone' and carved stairs are cracked and riven, huge slabs and moulded fragments lie about in wild confusion, and the colours of the dead and living jungle relieve the grey monotony of granite.
Near this place there is a low wall of large stones which has been traced for a great distance each way, and is thought to mark the great East and West street men

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64 BURED CITIES OF CEYON.
tioned in the Mahawayso. Further on are the gigantie pillars which are supposed to be the remains of the elephant stables. These are 2 ft. square, and stand 16 ft, from the ground; and are in good preservation.t Beyond these again is a collection of low foundation pillars, probably marking a building, connected with the adjoining “King's Palace,' as it is called, a building very similar in design to the “Queen's Palace,' and also undoubtedly a shrine. Here are to be seen the most perfect “moon stone' and flight of steps yet discovered. Having been buried for centuries, they are almost as perfect as when they were first put into position. It will be seen that each of the sacred geese carries in its bill the flower, bud and leaf of the lotus. Notice the quaint doorguardians at the head of the stairs, and the lions beyond: every detail of the mane, claws, etc., of the latter being delicately and incisively finished off.
At the N.E. corner of this “Palace,' a jungle path leads to a large “pokuna," and close to it is an extraordinary square well. It is a good deal dilapidated, but its shape is still fairly perfect; it is lined with huge slabs of granite, measuring about 11 ft. long 2 ft. broad and one foot thick, while the mouth of the well itself measured about 17 ft. by 15 ft. The well has at present been excavated to a depth of about 30 ft. It is difficult to say what use was made of this great work. The Sinhalese were not wont to build wells of such dimensions, and it may possibly have been a "bisokotua,' or sluice connected with the adjoining “pokuna." But no inlet or outlet channels have so far been discovered.
* See mote, page 61. † See Mahawaņso, ch. xiv.
ge g

BURED CITES OF CEYLON. 65
The road next takes a semi-circular curve round the Jétawanáráma Dagoba. This enormous shrine was built by King Mahá Séná, about the close of the third century A.D., to mark his recantation of the errors of the Wytulian heresy, to which he had been a temporary convert.
The height of the dagoba, including pedestal and spire, is 249 feet, and its diameter 360 feet; and the cubic contents of the dome of brickwork and the platform on which it stands, are said by Tennent to exceed 20 millions of cubic feet. The same author remarks with reference to this dágoba :-"Even with the facilities which modern invention supplies for economising labour, the building of such a mass would at present occupy 500 bricklayers from 6 to 7 years, and would involve an expenditure of at least a million sterling. The materials are sufficient to raise 8,000 houses, each with 20 feet frontage, and these would form 30 streets half a mile in length. They would construct a town, the size of Ipswich or Coventry; they would line an ordinary railway tunnel 20 miles long, or form a wall one foot thick and 10 feet high, reaching from Lon. don to Edinburgh.” But only the “glory of outline' is left to the Jétawanáráma; its four chapels have crumbled away almost beyond recognition, enormous trees have eaten into the brickwork to the very summit, and troops of the large grey “wanderoo' monkey are the only devotees who frequent the holy place.
The road to the right leads round south of the dagoba through several ruined buildings and a shady drive into the inner circular road close to the Thuipárima. The main road turns to the left, and, soon after the fourth mile-stone, passes a colossal sedent figure of Buddha, 7 ft. 6 in. high, * See part I., page 9.

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which is regarded with great reverence by the pilgrims. Opposite to this statue, a path has been cut northwards into the jungle, which leads to a magnificent “pokuna,' or bathing-pond. It is similar in detail to the “Kuttam pokuna,' but is square instead of oblong; and the long flight of steps instead of standing out from, is let into, the side wall. The stone pipe which fed it rests on an upright slab on which is carved a very grotesque Falstaffian figure in high relief; and probably was connected by a channel with Basawakkulam tank. Near the “pokuna,' a very curious inscription was uncovered, apparently in old Tamil; and is the only inscription yet discovered in Anuradhapura, which is not in Sinhalese or Nagara.
The next point of interest is the “Kuttam pokuna,' or twin bathing ponds (4 miles), the largest of which measures 132 ft. long by 51 ft. wide. The flights of steps on the N.W. and S. sides of the nearer' pokuna" are very effective and well preserved. Those in the farther pond are simpler in design but admirably executed. The moulding on the outside of the balustrade of each of the flights is well worth looking at, as is the construction of the front and back walls of the farther “pokuna,' which are very well preserved. Notice, too, the very quaint drainage pipe supported on a lion, near the N.W. corner of this “pokuna..' Part of this “pokuna' has been excellently restored by Mr. R. W. Ievers (Government Agent), and the accuracy and finish of the old stonework can now be appreciated. A jungle track, formerly the road to Mannar, leaves the northern end of the further “ pokuna,' and, after about three-quarters of a mile, passes on the right the remains of an ancient Sinhalese bridge, formed entirely of large blocks of granite, which

BURED CITIEs of CEYLoN. {፻7
here crossed some natural or artificial watercourse. The remains are about 60 yards in length, and the stones have been wonderfully little displaced.
The main road passes no more ruins until it leads past the Abhayagiriya (“mountain of safety') dagoba, (53 miles). When entire, this was the most stupendous dagoba in Ceylon. It was originally 180 cubits, or 405 feet high; its dome was hemispherical, and described with a radius of 180 ft., giving a circumference of 1,130 feet. Its summit was therefore 50 ft. higher than St. Paul's, and 50 feet lower than St. Peter's. At present it measures about 231 feet from the platform to the top of the sphere. The digoba had fallen into such disrepair, that the engineers sent to examine it by the late Governor (Sir A. Gordon) reported its total collapse as probable and imminent. It was therefore partially restored by prison labour chiefly under the superintendence of Mr. Murray, P.W.D. The diameter at the base of the bell is about 325 feet, and at the outer circle or basement 357 feet, The area of the platform on which it stands is about 8 acres, and the total area enclosed by the outer boundary wall about 11 acres. This vast building was erected by King Walagam Báhu in B.C. 89, to commemorate the recovery of his throne after the expulsion of the Malabar invaders. There is a fine entrance on the east side, but the chapel is quite hidden by the ruined brickwork; and on the north side the chapel has almost disappeared; but the western chapel presents some beautiful specimens of stone carving, a gigantic seven-headed cobra and two large male and female figures being well contrasted with the simple and effective flower patterns. The southern chapel is also in tolerable preservation; here are two large stone cobras,

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of slightly different design, and various fragments of bold frescoes. The dagoba is quite encircled with the ruins of buildings large and small; for a larger college of priests was attached to this than to any of the other sacred places in Anradhapura.
A great deal of excavation has been done round this dagoba, since the first edition of this book was published, under the able superintendence of the Archaeological Commissioner, Mr. H. C. P. Bell, C.s. The visitor is referred to his interesting reports to Government (procurable at the Colonial Secretary’s Office, Colombo), and to the plans and drawings with which they are illustrated. Space forbids the insertion here of more than the following extract from the Second Report :-
“Within a quarter of a mile of the Abhayagiri, the sites of sacred buildings (the majority now only recognisable by their stone boundaries and pillar stumps) are clustered thick. Those bordering the roads have been, as might be expected, ruthlessly indented on for modern requirements. It may yet be possible, by a prompt survey, to ascertain with some degree of certainty the extent and position of many of these ruins, the habitation of one of the three chief Buddhistic establishments at Anuradhapura. But unless steps are taken without delay it will be hopeless to assay the task. A good deal-most indeed-of the land near the Abhayagiriya is now in private hands, and the owners have not been restrained by scruples of superstition ur art from breaking up and carting away wholesale, boundary stones, pillars, steps, &c.-all, in short, that could be turned to profitable use. Under the circumstances, the wonder rather is...that sufficient remains to allow of the disjecta membra being reduced to any order.

BURED CITES OF CYON.
“It is with the greater satisfaction, therefore, that I am able to report two interesting discoveries in the midst of a general bouleversement which has resulted in semichaos. s
“The first is the possible identification of the convent of the Abhayagiri Fraternity:
“(a) About 200 yards from the Native Resthouse, on the main road to Trincomalee and Kandy, a shapeless crowd of thick stone piers, ranging from 6 ft. to 6 in above the ground, and running down to the roadside at an agwkward angle, must frequently have attracted passing attention. These piers are of disintegrated gneiss, pinkish-yellow in colour, like sandstone, and roughly squared to an average width of 1 ft. 10 in. Many bear wedge marks close to the ground, with which the substantial abutments of the neighbouring Malwatu-Oya. bridge may not be unconnected.*
“When the piers had been freed of undergrowth, and a careful line-by-line scrutiny made with measurements, an elaborate plan of a spacious building, precisely laid out, gradually evolved itself.
“The building had a frontage of 100 ft. with a depth of 52 ft. 4 in., and at the back a bay 43 ft. 2 in. by 25 ft. 3 in. A verandah, 6 ft. wide, ran round the building inside, and cut the interior space into four rooms, (i.) the central hall, 35 ft. by 28 ft. with (ii.), (iii.), two rooms on either side (25 ft. by 33 ft.), and (iv.) a third behind (28 ft. by 18 ft.). The outer wall was strengthened by sixty-four
* In justice to Public Works officers it should be stated that every effort has been made, since the express orders of Govern
ment a few years back, to put a stop to the reckless resort to ruins for building stone.

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70 BURED CITIES OF CEYLoN,
pillars, probably bricked up; those of the inner roomsexcept (iv.), which had fourteen-by twenty-two pillars. Rooms (i.), (ii), (iii.) had six additional pillars, and (iv.) two. These may have divided the rooms into twentyeight cells by cross walls, or have been free-standing columns as shown in the plan. The roof of the cloistered verandah was further supported at intervals by central pillars, perhaps supporting double arches. The main entrances, 11 ft. wide, were almost certainly on the east and west, though no steps are traceable above ground. A passage (21 ft. by 9 ft.) led west from the northern wing connecting it with (v.), a 'small room (15 ft. by l4 ft.), itself united at right angles to (vi.), a porch (15 ft, by 12 ft.), by a shorter passage (14 ft, by 10 ft.). The regular entrance into (vi.) was on the north, and there may have been a corresponding doorway into (v.) from the south. The proximity of the pillars and their bulk almost certainly prove that the building was storeyed-probably more than once; and all above the ground floor was doubtless constructed of wood. At the eastern boundary Wall of the premises, 122 ft. from the main building, a roomy mandapa facing the Abhayagiri, about 52 square, with wide steps in and out and 2 ft. square-figurcd blocks, admitted into the convent close, immediately opposite the monastery.
“No other single ruin of the magnitude is known near the Abhayagiri. It may not perhaps be rash, therefore, to regard the building as the veritable residence of the famous ' Dhammaruchi brethren who shared with the Theravadi and Jetawanaráma monks the servile deference and lavish benefactions of kings and ministers.

BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON. 7.
“If this surmise be correct, a clue is at once found enabling the identification of the so-called 'elephant stables' near the Jetawanaráma, and the pillared building near the Mirisweiya to be similarly fixed,
“ (b) To the west is a fair-sized pokuna, once stonefaced, but with nothing of its original adornment left, except two pairs of balustrades lying at the bottom upturned, and some casual pieces of the stone side walls and coping. Probably much of the stone work lies buried.
“ (c) About fifty yards north-west of the pokuna, and abutting on the Outer Circular, were found an octagonal shaft and puhul capital (a type not hitherto noticed at Anuradhapura) and some narrow moulded slabs deeply morticed. These gave hope of further discovery. When the raised site, six or eight feet above ground level, and some 140 ft. in length by 110 ft. broad, had been cleared of scrub, search was rewarded by a valuable Archaeological “find -a post with three rails attached, in two pieces--a genuine fragment of a structural 'Buddhist railing.' Fortunately the peculiar shape of the semi-convex rails had saved them from the fate of the shapely pillars of which but stumps remain in position. The tenons at both ends of the standard explained at once the purpose of the morticed slabs. Here were the rail, post, and plinth; only the coping seemed wanting. After continued search a portion of this was found, showing a few inches above ground, and close to it two slabs of a rounded basement, 10 in. in depth, as originally built at right angles to each other. This fixed the south-east corner and determined the plan of the railing which followed the lines of the oblong site. Trial excavations brought up more pieces of rails and coping, and two additional

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members-a stepped subplinth and a few scole below the quarter-round base. There is, therefore, every reason to hope that by running a trench along the foot of the mound, more of this fine railing will be unearthed, and that it may yet be possible to restore it in part to nearly its pristine form.
“The railing consisted of square 8 in. standards,- the angle posts probably 10 in. by 8 in.-3 ft. 10 in. in height, kept upright by tenons (3 in. by 2 in.) at top and bottom, which fitted mortices in the upper plinth and coping. Three lenticular rails, 13 in. deep, project from the posts 9 in. to 12 in. The centre rail is separated 1 in, from the upper and lower rails, and these 2 in. from coping and plinth respectively. A thin tie (lin. by in.), strengthens the rails near their lateral extremities. The widest interspaces of the mortice holes on the plinth slabs are but 17 in., which would bring the posts within a foot of one another; some would seem to have been still closer together. The coping, rounded at top, is 8 in. deep, the upper plinth 13 in., and both are delicately moulded. The lower plinth, three-stepped (2, 2, 23 in.), is 7 in. in depth, the basement 8 in., and the socle 9 in.- all cut on their upper surface with a half-inch set to prevent the members above sagging outwards. The entire railing rested on a stone foundation, and from ground to coping was 7 ft. 6 in. in height.
“Comparing it with the best known Indian examples, it follows that at Buddha Gaya in being rectangular, therein differing from the Bharhut, Sanchi, and Amaravati rails. In unsculptured barrenness it resembles the railing round the Great Tope of Sanchi, but carries

BURIED CITES OF CEYLON. 73
simplicity even further by square, in lieu of octagonal, posts.”
The outer circular road next passes the native resthouse, 6 miles, and so runs into the Mihintale road. But instead of following this part of it, the visitor is recommended to leave the Abhayagiriya, by the western side, and to make straight for the Ruwayveli, through a parklike stretch of undulating land, crossing the bed of an old irrigation channel, called the Halpan-ela, and passing on his right the so-called Sélachaitțiya, or Kuja Tisa Dágoba, a small, but very sacred, structure, with some splendid remains of stone carving and stairways. The proper name of this little dagoba is probably “Lajjikavihāra,' and it appears to have been erected by King Lajji-tissa, a nephew of King Dutugemunu, about B.C. 119, to mark a place where Buddha is said to have rested; but for some reason or other, it has long been known as the Sélachaittiya (stone temple), a name which properly belongs to a digoba at the Mihintale mountain. In general design and outline, it is curiously similar to, though more ornate than, the newly-discovered Wijayaráma, Dágoba.
* Mr. Burrows states (Report, Sessional Paper No. X. 1886, pp. 8, 12) that he came on a 'Buddhist railing' when working at the Nissanka. Lata Mandapayat, “perhaps the most interesting building in Polonnaruwa.' ' Unfortunately it has been wilfully and extensively broken, but most of the stone posts are still standing, while on the western side two posts are left with their rails still in position, which enable us to form an excellent idea of the whole arrangement.' From the measurements annexed to his Report the rail is shown to differ considerably from that just found at Anuradhapura, being rather of “post and rail ' type in stone. The posts are higher (5 ft. 5 in.), though of much the same width (8 in. by 8 in.). But the rails are both longer
(3 ft. 2 in), more shallow (7 in.), and half an inch thicker (6 in.), and the interspace runs from 6 in, to 103 in.

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Three roads in connection with the outer circular road remain to be described. The first of these leaves the outer circular directly after the third mile-stone, and passes between a pair of small twin “pokunas' known as the “Tammettan pokuna" ("Tammettan' being a pair of kettledrums or small round tomtoms in common use among Sinhalese musicians). Soon after leaving the elephants’ “pokuna' on the left, the visitor will see on his right a fine stone gateway, on the fringe of the jungle; and about fifteen yards beyond this, on the same side, a little path leads to what is known as the gal-gé,' or stone-house. Passing through a collection of stone pillars, a fine, ruined stairway, the path leads at once to a long rounded hummock of natural rock, which must have been extensively quarried in former times, as it is covered with the marks of the wedges used to break off the slabs of stone. Underneath the east side of the rock three small chambers have been excavated and partially walled in with brick; these were probably the cells of ascetics, Nearly opposite is a plain “patula,' stone, a platform with twenty-four pillars, and well-preserved stairway. On the right of the road leading from the “galgé ” to the Lankáráma Dágoba, a fine building has been discovered. Its base is square, with a broad 'gangway' of smooth granite slabs running along its four sides. The moulding and finish of the outer walls are admirable; and the doorway is unique, being formed of two upright slabs of granite, about 8 feet high by 3 feet wide and 5 inches thick, with a false pillar represented on each. There are four annexes at the four corners, with decorated stairways
* Opposite to this stairway, there is a half-finished moon. stone; the semi-circular lines and a few devices only being com. pleted and others merely sketched. The workmen were possibly disturbed at their work by the invaders, and never returned to it,

BURIED CITIES OF CEYLO. 75
and “door guardians;' a vast “pokuna' to the south, and a large dagoba, (or natural hill transformed into a dagoba) on the west. The “gal-gé" rock is close to on the north. The Mahawanso (Chap. 21) states that King Suratissa, who reigned B.C. 247-237, built a Wiháre close to the Tangiittaro hill (the “gal-gé'), which may probably be identified with this one. It is particularly stated that “ this ruler of the land caused this and other viharas “to be built in great perfection, without causing any “oppression.' The jungle to the south and east of the “gal-ge' is full of ruins and enclosures, possibly marking the site of the buildings which connected the Maha Viháre, or sacred town, with the secular part of the city.
The visitor will find more recent information as to the “gal-gé' and its surroundings in Mr. Bell's Third
Archaeological Report.
Returning again to the road, the visitor will soon arrive at a small dagoba, called the Lankáráma, said by tradition to have been erected by Prakrama Bahu, as late as the twelfth century A.D. The northern side of this dagoba has fallen away, and exposes to view the manner in which some at least of these dagobas were built. These are the remains of a low altar at each of the cardinal points; and a treble row of very delicate and classic pillars, with 20, 28 and 40 pillars in each row respectively. They resemble the pillars at the Thipáráma, but are all monolithic. Notice the exquisite finish of the lion and goose designs on the capitals. There is a fine stone waterpipe, cut in the shape of a mythical beast, near the S.-E. side of the dagoba, and several mutilated statues of Buddha at the S.-E. corner of the

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enclosure. Pillars marking the dwellings of the priests are to be seen at the N.-W. corner, and on the southern side of the road. Leaving the Lankarima, the visitor will emerge on the road which runs northwards to the Jébawanáráma, and southwards to the Inner circular and Thúpáráma. -
Another expedition to be made from the outer circular is by a path which runs due north through the jungle from the northern side of the Jétawanáráma to some very interesting ruins which have only recently been discovered, distant about 2 miles. The path leads first to a small dagoba, not unlike, in general design, the so-called Sélachaittiya in Anuradhapura, i.e., the dagoba, itself rises from the centre of a square platform about 50 feet by 50, with a boundary wall of plain slahs of stone, about 2 feet high, with four stairways or approaches; the carving on which is markedly plain compared with analogous specimens in Anuradhapura. A deep hole has been dug into the centre of the dágoba itself, probably by villagers in search of treasure. It must originally have stood some 20 feet high, with a diameter at the base of about 30 feet. To the north and west of this daigoba, there are a great many ruins, the most remarkable of which is a large oblong platform, about 80 feet by 50. There are no signs of pillars upon it, but on the huge slabs which form the boundary wall are some beautiful specimens of stonecarving of a simple and uniform design-a single upright male figure under a heavy canopy in very high relief. Both the general plan of this building, and the massive designs on the entablature are obviously different from any of the ruins in Anuradhapura, nor is there any trace of a connexion between the two places; but, while these differences are obvious, the identification of the site is at

BURIED CITIES OF CEYION. 77
present little more than a guess. About half a mile to the North of this place is a huge grass mound which covers another dágoba known as the Kiribat Vehera.
In 1891, the Archaeological Commissioner began a fresh investigation of this site; and the following extract from his Fourth Report will be read with interest:-
“The jungle had grown up everywhere since 1884, and necessitated fresh cutting. This has now been done, and the clearing extended well back on all sides, so as to open out the entire monastery including the majority of off-buildings standing outside the boundary wall of the inner enclosure. The area cleared embraces some 300 yards square.
“As the jungle was cut back, the perfect symmetrical arrangement of this fine monastery gradually developed itself.
“In general plan it somewhat resembles the monastery at Toluwila. A similar raised quadrangle, with entrances at the four cardinal points: within, a dagoba, located east, one or two vihāres and annexes' dotted round outside. But beyond these broad features the resemblance well-nigh ends. In lieu of the elevated pilimagé (image-house) and wata-dd-gé of Toluwila, situated respectively S.-E. & N.-W., within the walled enclosure, here are two buildings both rectangular and on level ground with tall, slender, squared pillars. The number and location of the exterior annexes and of the pansala also differs. No far reaching street, as at Toluwila, conduets to the latter. The Maha Thera of “ Wiiayarima Pirivena, resided within easy dissance of the sacred precincts and his daily ministrations,

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“Pending a survey of the 'Vijayarāma, Monastery by the officers of the Survey Department, I have prepared a ground plan, drawn to scale, which will be useful in explaining the following description:-
“Approaching from the south along a street marked on one side by a line of stones, which commences at the site of some building (possibly an ambalam), 120 yards distant from the monastery precincts (a), the mura-ge, or entrance lodge, is reached. This is a building on twelve stout pillars roughly hewn, and from it a plain boundary of large single stones, not continuous, runs east and west.
“Passing through the lodge (a) still north along the street for about 20 yards, on the right are some low steps leading off by a street to a large building, (b) of 48 pillars (46 by 38 by 3).f. The building was entered on the west front by three sets of steps which admitted into a corridor, perhaps open, 5 ft. 6 in. in width, encircling the walled building proper (33 ft. 6 in. by 25 ft. 9 in.), which was supported on 24 columns, giving 8 ft. 6 in. passage down the centre west and east. The pillars are 7 ft. in height and squared to 8 in, with the exception of the eight at the angles of the corridor and inner building, which are 10 ft. by 10 in. It may be assumed that this was the main pansala.
“Between this pansala and the monastery walls are two rows of short piers (c), of some minor building.
* “Not reproduced. The delay in the issue of this Report enables me to give the survey plan of the Monastery before excavation commenced. In the Report for the Second Quarter of 1891, will appear a detailed plan of the site as exhumed.'
'' Surface measurement, as in all cases prior to excavation.'

BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON. 79
“Directly west of (b), and across the Main street, is another building (d), similar as regards the number of pillars (at present only 5 ft. high), 50 ft. in length by 34 ft. broad. If there were steps, they are below ground, but the entrance was almost certainly on the east or north side. Between (d) and the uttermost of the stone wallsthree on the south side-which enclose the monastery quadrangle is a small stone-faced pokuna, or may be a well, 17 ft. square; and lying between the first and second boundary lines (counting outwards) seem to have been several small outhouses (privies, &c.), skirting the southeast corner, and shut off from view by separate stone walls.
“A width of 68 ft. separates the second stone boundary from the first or nearest stone wall to the monastery enclosure. Within this piazza were built twelve * annexes, all exactly alike in every respect (about 17 ft. square, surface measurement), balancing one another on the four sides with a regularity and fitness which is admirable. On either side of the approach to each of the four flights of steps (north, south, east, and west) leading up to the monastery are placed two, facing inward, and hanging off its angles to complete the dozen, four more, two fronting east, two west. Of two (s.v.), hardly a vestige remains, whilst not a single one retains all its pillars intact.*
“Behind that (q) at the north-west corner of the monastery, fifty yards away, are 24 stone piers, in two rows, with a double line of rough stone in front.
' ' ' Annexe' in has 3 stumps of pillars; 7, 8 complete standing pillars and 5 stumps; o, 12 stumps ; p, 12 stumps ; q, 1 complete pillar and 10 stumps; r. 12 stumps; S, none; t, 1 complete pillar and 11 stumps; nu, 1 fallen pillar complete and 10 stumps ; ), none; w, 3 complete pillars standing, 1 complete pillar fallen, and 7 stumps; ac, 12 stumps.”

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“Besides the small pond, two other larger pokunu served the monastery-one immediately behind annexe (u) on the east, the other and biggest of the three fifty yards north.
“The third line of boundary on the south is of single rough stones, but the second and first nearing the monastery are formed of worked slabs, Ovolo-shaped or quarter round, on the inner face.
“The third line is united with the second at right angles on either side of the south steps, leaving a fine approach nearly 40 ft. wide.
“This passage leads direct to the steps by which access is gained to the monastery quadrangle, a temenos, 95 yards north and south, 88 yards east and west, raised throughout 6 or 8 ft. above the level of the ground around. It was originally encircled by a wall of brick pierced, after the Tollwila plan, by two stone pili, or spouts, on each face. At no point is this brick wall standing now. The débris falling outwards has transformed the once level pita widiya, 17 ft. in width, which encircled the sacred enclosure between this raised inner wall and the first boundary line of stone, into a gentle slope, where the foot stumbles at every step over the outcrop of brickwork.
“At the head of the three flights of steps into the monastery on the south, east, and west sides, and also on the north though without a stairway, projecting from the line of the brick enclosing wall are porticos (d, e,f, g,) of twelve stone pillars 17 ft. square. Each stairway consists of ten steps without balustrades, but flanked (at the south and west flight at least,) by large guard-stones figured

BURIED CITIES OF CEYION, 8.
with the same obese dwarf janitors made familar by the well-known pair at the southern mandapa of the Jétawanáráma, dágoba.
“Entering within the limits of the originally walled
enclosure by the south porch, to the right, abutting against the east boundary a few feet south of the eastern portico, is a striking mound on which large trees have grown (h). This is banked by a quadrilateral revetment of great stone slabs boldly moulded 47 ft. 6 in square. The moulding follows one of the ordinary graceful Anuradhapura, types. A rectangular sockle, ovolo plinth, plain block dispensing with a torus, completed by ogee and stepped coping.
“This square platform formed the stylobate of the ddigoba, the tholobate of which must lie beneath the coating of earth and tree roots of the present mound. A solid low single-course parapet, 10 in. in height, with quarter-round inner face similar to the slabs of the first boundary line of stone one finishes the elevation of the platform.
“Perrons of 10 steps stand out from the plane of the revetment on all four sides. The steps are finished at their sides by unornamented balustrades running down into volutes and a pair of “ vase-pattern' terminals. The design of the vase is of a different type than that (e.g., the steps near the Court-house) noticeable usually in Anuradhapura ruins. Here diagonal lines are made to cross the vases. The long exposure to the elements has weathered the surface carving greatly.
“From the level of the top step the mound rises irregularly. Down its centre a wide pit has been sunk at
I

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some former period, when no doubt the digoba was sacked. From the examination of the sides of the shaft as left by the wreckers it is to be gathered that the dágoba was not built throughout of bricks laid in courses, though there are signs of brickwork having covered a width of about two yards square at the centre, with a filling of gravel and rubble extending to the outer shell.
“In the south-west corner of the quadrangle stood a building (), on 16 pillars with 8 extra pillars, (on each face two), 34 ft. 9 in. by 33 ft. entered perhaps on all four sides, though there are no steps.
“North of the west entrance, but more centrally placed than (i), is another building (), somewhat smaller in itself (26 ft. 3 in. by 26 ft.), but from the presence of six additional pillar stumps on its south side, evidently augmented by a pronaos (18 ft. 2 in. by 11 ft.) with a flight of steps projecting 7 ft. outside. The pillars of the building run from 9 in, to 6 in. in girth, and in proportion are exceptionally tall, 10 ft. 5 in. Until they can be excavated, it would be rash to surmise what special purpose these two buildings served, though they are not improbably image houses.
“A third building (k), however, on 24 shaped columns, 7 ft. in height by 9 in. square, situated northwest of the east steps, was without doubt a vihatre. It resembles in every particular vihaire already described in previous reports. The building is in length 34 ft. by 26 ft, and has evidently a landing and flight of steps buried on the south side, for a portion of one guard-stone shows above ground.

BURIED CITIES OF CHYLON, 83
“The three buildings (i, j, k,) and the daigoba (h) are apparently the only structures actually within the cnclosure. But connected with it at the north porch by raised ground (possibly a regular passage) is a great oblong hypethral 'hall' on the same level, 68 ft. 6 in. in depth by 52 ft. broad. This is the monastery, or 'palace,' so called by Mr. Burrows. Excavation may help to determine its object. This open building must have been walled in by massive slabs capped by a heavy moulded coping. At present the stonework, nearly all of which has fallen inwards, is lying half buried, and much of it will have to be grubbed out of the roots of large trees that have sprung up inside the building and round its walls.
“The basement is more than half underground, but is certainly moulded throughout. From this rose two slab 'courses with their coping. Two or three slabs on the south front seem to have been set up by Mr. Burrows; the rest thrown backward, peep out from the soil here and there.
“The building was drained by gurgoyle spouts passing out through the wall below slab course, the bottom of which ran level with the floor within the building.
“From the dimensions of such slabs, as it is possible at present to measure, it may be asserted that the building, if walled in completely on all four sides, would have had eight slabs on the front and back faces, and eleven on each of its sides.
“ The plalı of the building itself and the ornamentation of its walls is in a style widely divergent from that of the ruined viharas around the Anuradhapura dagcbas.

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In their absence of elaboration, they partake rather of the simplicity noticeable at Isurumuniya. The general design of the ornament resembles somewhat a series of " cameos' in granite, with vertical raised bands of flowered carving at intervals, carried round the exterior face of the walls. Above the “cameos' of standing figures carved in sunk relief-no part rising above the plane of the surrounding surface - are nakara toran in nicsso relievo, differing in detail.'
“The visitor should next proceed about half-a-mile down the Kurunegala road to a very interesting and ancient temple called Isurumuniya, which was constructed by King Dewenipiatissa about 300 B.C. The temple is carved out of, and circles round, an abrupt formation of natural rock; and its shrine is approached by two terraces, the steps and janitors being in excellent preservation. The outer wall of the upper terrace is ornamented with a most remarkable series of seventeen mural frescoes in low relief, the subjects being grotesque to the last degree Notice particularly the large tablet on the south wall, consisting of a group of three women, a man and an attendant; and near it the group of three grotesque men seated; and on the north wall the group of three figures, one playing a musical instrument, On the southern face of the lower terrace there is a sculpture precisely similar to these, but on a larger scale; the stone measuring 2 ft. 3 in. by 3 ft. 1 in. Notice also the bold gurgoyle forming a waterspout at the base of the south wall, and the stone lion beneath, which evidently supported a drainage pipe. Close to the entrance to the shrine, on the right hand side, is a large sitting figure in high relief, holding a horse, and carved out of the face of

BURED CITES OF CYLON. 85
the rock; and underneath it, just above the small ' pokuna,' are the heads of four elephants in low relief; the outline of the right hand one being very quaintly designed. The stone doorway is a fine specimen of carving, and deserves minute inspection. Notice, too, the beautiful proportion of the pillars which support the porch in front of it. The shrine itself has lately been painted in the guadiest style of native art. The sedent figure in the centre (4 ft. 2 in, high), together with its pedestal and surrounding ornamentation, is cut from the solid rock. The two figures on either side, in the attitude of exhortation, are of wood, but of ancient workmanship. Close to the southern base of the lower terrace is the “pansala,” or priests' dwelling-house; and between it and the rock itself is a curious little “gal-gé” or rock-cut room. At the northern end of the rock is a small bo-tree planted in a crevice, with a low altar near it for flower offerings; and on the eastern side is a flight of steps leading to the summit, where there is a “sripatula,' or sacred foot-mark of Buddha, recently cut in imitation of the celebrated one on Adam's Peak. It is needless to dwell with regret upon the debased attempts at modern architecture which disfigure the summit of this unique and magnificent rock temple. The grotesque character of the Isurumuniya, frescoes forming so distinct a contrast to the usual ornamentation around a shrine sacred to Buddha, demands a fuller explanation than can be found in the scanty records of the Mahawagso,
About a quarter of a mile further down the Kurunegala road, a little jungle path to the left leads to another huge boulder of rock, and underneath its eastern shoulder

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are some remains of rude rock dwellings known traditionally as the Nunnery, with the ruins of some connected buildings in close proximity. It is at least clear from the Mahawalso that King Dutugemunu constructed some dwellings for female recluses in this immediate neighbourhood.* The visitor can vary his return journey by going back to Isurumuniya, ascending the high bank on the western side of the rock, and walking along the bund of Tisávewa into Anuradhapura.
Space forbids more than a bare allusion to the interesting monastic ruins of Puliyankulama, which lie at the apex of the triangle formed by the Trincomalee road, the Jaffna, road, and the deviation, about two miles and a half from the town; and of Toluvila, which lie about half a mile N. of the Ayton Road, and about two miles S.-E. of the town. The visitor, who has time to spend on these ruins, is referred to Mr. Bell's Sixth and First progress reports.
* MIahaWayso, xx., 20.
శkస%షా, @సుశీస్కు

క్స్టి' § SJ/
CHAPTER IV.
MHNT TAL-E.
IGHT miles to the East of Anuradhapura, the solitary mountain of Mihintalé rises abruptly from the jungle-covered plain. The road to it, passing between the Brazen Palace and the resthouse, skirts a part of the bund of Nuwara-vgwa (the “city tank') between the second and third mile-posts. This noble tank is said to be the Jayavęwa, mentioned in the Mahawagso as having been constructed by King Pandukhábaya about 400 B.C. It has been recently restored. At Mihintalé there is a small resthouse, where ordinary supplies can be got if ordered beforehand. The mountain itself was possibly the scene of an ancient hillworship anterior to the introduction of Buddhism. Its sanctity in the eyes of Buddhists is due to the fact that on its summit alighted the great missionary prince, Mahindo," when arriving from India to preach the
* dee Part I,

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tenets of the new faith, B.C. 307. Soon after his arrival, King Dewenipiatissa, who was out hunting on the Imountain, was miraculously allured to approach the place where Mahindo sat; and after hearing a discourse from him, was promptly converted to Buddhism, together with forty thousand of his followers. Mahindo died on the mountain, B.C. 267.
A guide should be procured from the resthouse to the foot of the ascent, nearly a mile distant. A flight of steps formed of huge slabs of granite, and said to be 1,840 in number, leads from the base to the summit. These steps are arranged in four flights. At the top of the first flight a narrower stairway to the right conducts to the remains of some cave dwellings. Half way up the third flight, a narrow path to the left leads to the remains of a curious stone aqueduct supported on stone pillars; beyond which is an enormous stone trough, in good preservation, probably used to hold food for priests. A little farther up the mountain, a small flight of steps to the left leads to the ruins of an important shrine. Two slabs measuring 7 ft. high by 4 wide and 2 thick, clear of the frames, stand upright at the entrance and are covered with inscriptions of the late 10th century. At the top of the third flight of steps are the remains of the Bhóijana, Sáláuca Ur refectory of the priests. Near the middle of the last flight of steps a narrow path to the right leads to the “Naga, Pokuna,” or snake-bathing place. This is formed out of the solid rock and measures about 130 ft. in length. At the back, a five. headed cobra has been carved out of the rock in high relief, and is represented as rising from the water. It measures nearly 7 ft. high, and 6 ft. across the head, and is a striking piece of realistic stone carving, Passing by

BUY RED CITES OF CRYON. 89
the “Niiga Pokuna,' the path leads on to the Etwehera, the digoba, which crowns the summit of the highest peak of Mihintalé. Returning from the “Naga Pokuna' to the main stairway, the visitor will notice, nearly at the top of the fourth flight of steps, a curious inscription, in very large letters, cut on the rock to the right of the path, The king whose name occurs in this fine inscription is called"Gámini Abhaya,” who may be either Gaja Báhu I., A.D. 113, or Mégha warna, A.D. 254; Dr. Miller thinks the latter date the more probable. The path then ascends to the “Mura, Maduwa, ' or guard-house, which leads on to the picturesque platform that surrounds the Ambustála dagoba. This dagoba, marks the scene of the first interview between Mahindo and his royal convert Dewenipiatissa, and is said to contain the ashes of the great missionary. It is built of stone instead of brick; the terrace round it being encircled with octagonal pillars, the capitals of which are ornamented with carvings of the sacred goose. Some fine stone capitals lie on the ground close by, on which alternate figures of grotesque men and geese are carved. To the south of the Ambustála is a broken stone statue, said to be of King Dewenipiatissa, and undoubtedly of great antiquity. The coconut trees close to it afford a pleasant drink after the toilsome ascent. Nearly opposite the statue, notice the curious oblong cuttings in the rock, supposed to be the . beginnings of cave dwellings, never completed One more flight of steps leads to the gallery surrounding the Mahaséya dagoba, which was built over a single hair which grew between Buddha's eyebrows, This digoba, was partially restored during the governorship of Sir Arthur Gordon to prevent its utter collapse. The view from the gallery-or, for the adventurous climber, from
M

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the summit-of this digoba is extremely striking; to the west, the three great dagobas of Anuradhapura, emerge from the sea of foliage, and the glittering waters of Tissavewa and Nuwaravewa are a relief to the unending green; to the south the plain is broken by the hill of '' Katiwarakande,' and the rugged outline of Ritigala. Descending again to the Ambustála, the visitor should quit the platform by a little path exactly opposite to the “ Mura, Maduwa,' and keeping almost due east for about a quarter of a mile, he will come to a curious arch hollowed out of a narrow granite cliff and terminated by a flat slab, which is known as “Mahindo's bed." Though its properties as a couch are uninviting, the situation is most romantic. To the left is a deep ravine filled with great boulders of granite half covered by creepers; to the right the view stretches to the verge of the horizon over an unbroken expanse of jungle foliage. Just below are some curious rock chambers, once the dwellings of hermits, and now the trysting-place for multitudes of bats.
When the visitor descends the mountain again, and emerges from the jungle path on to the Tirappane road, he should turn to the left, and a walk of a few hundred yards will bring him to another collection of ruins, containing two small dagobas, (the nearer one being known as the Sélachaittiya), a "pokuna' with a stone aqueduct, and numerous walls and enclosures. Some beautiful specimens of maiden-hair and silver fern are to be found growing in the crumbling brickwork,
Continuing about a quarter of a mile farther down the same road, a plank crosses the ditch to the left-hand side, and a narrow path leads to the Kaludiya ("black

RTRE CITES OF CEYLON. 91.
water') pokuna. Though mostly artificial, this pokuna' as all the beauties of a natural lake. The water is of a onsiderable depth, the trees fringe its edge, and there 'e many curious stone ruins and indistinct remains
side its banks.
ෆෙල්ෂ්ණීෂුද්‍රිශුණ්‍ය

Page 64

v
శొ M
濒灰签葱葱派葱葱队
CHAPTER W.
KALAVEAWA
ITH a day to spare, the visitor is strongly recommended to pay a visit to KaláBalaļuvęwa, on his way to or from Anu. radhapura. This gigantic tank is the O reservoir which ultimately supplies Anuradhapura with water, being connected with that place by a winding canal called the Yoda-la or giant's canal, 54 miles in length, which on its way feeds a widelyextended system of village tanks. The tank itself (or rather tanks, for though originally distinct, Kalavewa and Balaluvewa are now connected by a breach) is fed from the projecting spurs of the northern end of the hill district; the Dambul Oya and the Mirisgoni Oya being the two largest feeders. The double tank has a total area, of 4,425 acres, or about 7 square miles, with a contour of 30 miles. Natural high ground runs round the greater part of it, but an enormous bund or artificial bank runs along the western side, measuring six miles in length, with a breadth of 20 feet at the top, and an average height of 60 feet. It is formud of large blocks of stone

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9. BURED CITES OF CEYON.
and earthwork, and provided with a fine spill-wall, 200 wide, and about 40 feet high. Close to the spill-wall is a collection of very curious and unique pillars; each pillar is in two sections, which are connected by a double mortice and tenon joint; while the joints are further strengthened by stone collars, one or two of which are still nearly in position. When the tank was full, these pillars must have been very deeply immersed, though they are over 17 feet high; and there is no trace of any connexion with the higher part of the bund. It has been conjectured that they supported a seat from which the King looked over the tank; but perhaps some light may be thrown upon the purpose they served by the following passage from the Mahawayso, which refers to the tank at Anuradhapura, now known as Basawakkulam :-—“ Moreover King Dutugemunu placed pillars in the water of Abhav wa and caused that celebrated preaching hall to be built upon them; and who shall describe the halls which he caused to be built in the air?' *
Just beyond the spill-wall is the great breach, 1,000 feet broad, which destroyed the utility of the tank at some unknown period. Whether this was caused by a heavy flood, or by the malevolence of the Tamil invader, or of a neighbouring Rija, it is impossible to decide. The first supposition is the more probable, as the part of the bund which has been breached rested on a foundation of natural rock, and was probably insecurely fixed into it. The tank was constructed by Rája Dhátu Séna A.D. 460. The sluice and the well, or “bisokotua," are still in wonderful preservation, the latter being 12 feet square and 25 feet
* Simhalcse translation, ch. XXvi., par.19-21.

BURIED (ITIES; OF (EYION. 95
deep, faced with enormous plain slabs running its whole length. These are bounded in a most peculiar manner, and backed with brickwork. The channel running from it under the bund conducts the water into the “Yoda-la” canal, and so to Anuradhapura,
To reach Kalavewa, the visitor should stop at Kekiriwa, the first stage (14 miles) out of Dambulla, where the resthouse is excellent, and supplies can be got if ordered by letter two days beforehand. Sleeping there the night, a guide should be procured, and an early start made next morning, either on foot or horseback, along a pleasant and easy village path, about 5 miles to the bund, and 7 to the spill-wall of the tank, or by the new high road to Kalavewa, which is about 1 mile longer. There is no resthouse accommodation here, but failing an introduction to the Public Works Officer in charge, a shed can easily be procured to breakfast, and even to sleep in, provisions and bed being carried by coolies. The coach no longer goes to Kekiráwa, so the journey from Dambulla must be made either by bicycle, carriage or motor.
Kalavewa has other interests: engineering, archaeological, and picturesque. Firstly, Government has accomplished the restoration of this tank and its canal. A huge masonry wall has been thrown across the breach of the tank, and an additional piece of bund thrown out to meet it. The bund of the Yoda-ela canal has been repaired, partly by Tamil labour, partly by Sinhalese villagers selected from the various “korales' or shires which will benefit by its water. The restoration cost altogether over half a million of rupees, and took about three years. It is perhaps the grandest experiment in irrigation. ever undertaken in modern Ceylon. Its completion

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96 BY REI) - (?” Si () ('FYTON
means the resuscitation of the most important part of the North-Central Province, the second largest province in the island. The tank will hold about 20 feet of water, a supply which not only waters the great ranges of fields which stretch away from the bund, but is carried down the winding “Yoda-ela" canal for 54 miles, supplying innumerable village tanks on its way; and ultimately fills the “Tisivewa, ' tank at Anuradhapura, so completely as to enable the town lands to defy the dreaded years of drought. The restoration of this tank was due to the enlightened irrigation policy of Sir Arthur Gordon (Lord Stanmore), by whom it was opened in 1888 with an imposing ceremonial.
Secondly, there are two very interesting ruins within reach. The first of these is the so-called Wiiitapura, which lies close to the northern end of the bund, and which can be seen on the way from Kekirawa to the spill wall, if the guide is instructed accordingly. If the remains be those of the first Wiitapura, the settlement dates from 500 B.C., and is called after a brother-in-law of King Panduwasa, who was a nephew of the original invader Wijaya. It was a fortress and a city when Anuradhapura, was still a village, and, according to the Mahawaso, was surrounded hy a triple battlement, and entered by a gate
of iron.
A flight of twelve stone steps, each bearing the remains of an inscription apparently in the Nágara, character, but almost defaced by time and the feet of pilgrims, leads up to a cleard space, from the centre of which rises a well-preserved digoba, from 40 to 50 fee high, with a diameter of about 90 feet. A stone enciosur runs all round it, and there is a smaller inner enclosur

BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON, 97
on the north side, containing 'a bana-gé,” or preaching hall, the bottom step of which has been worn down quite two inches by pious knees and feet. To the north of this enclosure are the foundation pillars of a “piriwena,' or monastery for priests, with two entrances in a line, and door-guardians carved on the entrance stones. Round the dagoba, there are four altars, and underneath is said to be hidden the jawbone of Buddha. There are niches for lamps all round the top of the dagoba balustrade. The surrounding jungle is full of pillars and remains of
buildings,
The second place of interest is the Aukana Vihare. This is situated 2 miles to the N.-W. of the spill-wall. The path leads through thick jungle, and across the bed of the Kala, Oya- the stream which carried off the water from the breach in the bund of Kalavewa-to a collection of square abrupt rocks which stand out boldly on the top of a low hill. From one of these rocks an enormous upright figure of Buddha has been carved. It measures 33 ft. 3 in. from its pedestal, and is beautifully executed and preserved. Every detail of the robe and limbs is fresh and accurate, and the expression of the face and pose of the figure combine an idea of majesty and repose. The statue is slightly joined to the rock behind it by a narrow strip at the back. It faces due east, and when the intervening jungle was padi-land irrigated from Kalá vewa, it must have been plainly visible from the bund, at which it gazes. Near the right foot (which is 6 feet long) lies a square slab with a cobra carved on it in high
relief. There are several small digobas and enclosures
facing the statue.
N

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98 BURED CITES OR CEYON
When the workmen were repairing the top of the Kalávewabund, just above the Yodi-ela sluice, they came across a rusty iron broad-sword, with a two-edged blade, 3 feet in length, and a fairly perfect but very narrow hilt, buried about two feet deep. Close to it were the still more rusty remains of a dagger blade and some grotesque heads made of clay. The sword is exactly similar in shape to those carried by the attendants of King Dutugemunu in the picture of his conflict with Eala in the big temple at Dambulla.

KYMNI
ಸ್ಲೀವ್ಲೆವ್ಲೆ. 3. @@鳶鷺鷺鷺鷺國
႕%ပဲ့ူ
CHAPTER WI.
MNNER AND POLONARU VNVA.
as HE journey to Polonaruwa is a more serious undertaking than the expeditions already described, and visitors contemplating it are strongly advised to write to the Government Agent at Anuradhapura, beforehand and enquire as to the state of the roads and ask for the assistance of the headmen, on whose good will the possibility of obtaining supplies depends. It is not a trip to be undertaken without full preparation and enquiry, and is a trying one for ladies,
The new cart road branches off from Habarane resthouse (15 miles from Dambulla, down the Trincomalee cart road), and is now open as far as Topare or Topávewa, which is equivalent to Polonaruwa. It is practicable for wheeled traffic most of the year. It crosses the two spills of Minneriya tank (15 miles from Habarane), and from the second spill you get a good view of Sigiriya rock. The road to the Tank bungalow (unfurnished) at Minneriya tank turns off to the right close to the 15th mile
* The coach from Matale to Trincomalee stops at this resthouse. See Time Table in Appendix.

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100 BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON.
post. It is nearly a mile to the bungalow; and the détour is well worth making.
This huge tank is said to have been made or repaired by King Mahá Séna towards the end of the third century A.D. ; it is about 20 miles in circumference, with an artificial bund of 5 miles long and 60 feet high. The sluices are on a level with the deepest parts of the tank, and are never closed. It was formerly a noted place for game of all descriptions; but cheap guns and gunpowder have greatly thinned their numbers. However, there is generally a herd of elephants in the vicinity; and deer, snipe and teal can be got if there is time to go after them. The view of the lake at senset, with its hanging woods and distant hills, is strikingly beautiful; and has been compared by Sir E. Tennent to the glories of Killarney.
In the village itself is situated the temple of King Mahi. Séna': it is a most humble mud hut, containing only one relic worth looking at, a curious iron sword with a square hilt, and ornamented with small brass chains; but it is interesting from the extraordinary reverence with which it is regarded, on account of the dreaded memory of the deified King. Even at the present day a rude kind of justice is administered at this shrine. A man accused of a crime will probable demand the right to clear himself by swearing before the image of Maha Sen. He and his accuser then resort to the temple, and, after a cursory examination, the Kaprála or officiating priest recommends one party, or both, to go through with the ordeal. Before taking the oath, the night must be passed in an open shed near the temple; and as this is
See Part I., page 9.

BURED CITES OF CYLON. 101.
exposed to the numerous wild beasts and to the malarial tendencies of the neighbourhood, the god has not unfrequently been known to show his discrimination by incapacitating the guilty party stom taking the morning oath. The visitor should get a guide from the village to show him the rude shrine on the top of the bund, where there are some antique and curious images of Maha Sen, his wife, and the god or genius of the tank. This is about a quarter of a mile from the Gansabawa, by the short cut; and a little way below, and to the south of it, there is a circular stone enclosure containing an interesting collection of ancient pottery-propitiatory offerings to the tank divinity,
One of the chief drawbacks to enjoyment at Minneri and also at Polonaruwa is the plague of ticks, which, in the dry weather in the middle of the year, are a serious nuisance, but are not very plentiful from the middle of January to the middle of March--the best time for making the expedition. Strong carbolic soap is the best preventative. Returning to the road to Polonaruwa, the traveller will have four miles to go before arriving at the picturesque village and tank of Giritalé (Giritaliwa) where there is a small unfurnished bungalow; and nine miles more will bring him to Topávewa (Polonaruwa) where he will find a similar bungalow (unfurnished). Permission to use these bungalows must be obtained from the Government Agent, Anuradhapura. The topography of the place is not difficult, as nearly all the ruins lie in a straight line due north of the tank; one or two, however, are not so easy to find; and a guide had better be procured from the village, who will be well paid with 50 cents (8 annas) for the day.

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O2 BURED CITES OF CEYON.
It should be premised here that the following remarks upon the ruins are purely tentative. They are the result of a sojourn of a few weeks made by the author several years ago, when Archaeological discovery was in its infancy in Ceylon. The place is now being “taken up' scientifically by the Archaeological Commissioner, and doubtless the result of his investigations will throw a fuller light on the problems and nomenclature of the ruins, and necessitate the re-writing of this chapter.
Leaving the Gansabawa bungalow, the road passes on the right a collection of stunted pillars which lark the site of the great Durbar-hall, standing on a slight eminence. The pillars are all ornamented, and many of them bear traces of an inscription. From this spot was taken the beautifully-carved stone lion which is now in the Colombo Museum. Between these pillars and the Gansabawa, is a shapeless mass of brick-work with a small “pokuna' below it, which still awaits identification and explanation.
The next point to be visited is the “kotuwa, or fort; a grim, roofless pile of brick-work, with walls about 25 ft. high by 3 ft. thick, overgrown with enormous fig trees. Below it is a much smaller building of a similar shape. The identification of this structure and its appendages is by no means clear. It is also called, by local tradition, “ the king's prison'; and all that can be said is, that it is about as like a prison as a fort. Due east of this lies the “ pattirippuwa,' or pavilion, an oblong building measuring 75 ft. by 36 ft, The wall which surrounds the platform, about 9 ft. high, is formed of large granite slabs, and divided into terraces, each slab being decorated with bold carvings of elephants, lions and gods. The stones which form the footway of each terrace are ornamented with a

BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON, 103
delicate flower-border, and the pillars which stand on the platform itself bear the flower-vase and the lotus pattern. The stairways to the north and south are similar to those at Anuradhapura; only the griffins and lions assume larger proportions. About 10 yards to the east is a similar but smaller building, possibly the royal bathing pavilion; the base is ornamented with a fine facade of lions over ogee moulding Close to it is the “kumára pokuna," or king's bathing-pond; a square paved tank with two entrances. On the western side are two stone spouts carved into crocodiles' heads; and in the centre of the tank lies the round stone on which the King sat while his attendants performed the necessary offices of ablution. Near it are three upright lions, which perhaps supported it, and various other broken carvings.
Proceeding northwards, and passing by a “ sannas,' or inscribed stone, on the left, a quarter-of-a, mile's walk will bring the visitor to the “Daladá Máligawa'-the gem of Polonaruwa. This temple, as its name implies, was built to receive the sacred Tooth of Buddha when it was brought from Anuradhapura, by King Kirti Nissanga, about A.D. 1198. It is still in wonderful preservation; the clear-cut figures and mouldings on the granite have suffered little from time; and though most of the roof has fallen in, the walls have been very little displaced. The building, which is Hindu in design, consists of an outer quadrangle, and an inner and innermost shrine. The inner shrine still retains its flat roof; and near the left wall is a curious square stone with a round hole pierced in it, probably a Yoni stone.' The innermost shrine, in which the Tooth was probably kept, bears traces of having had a conical or octagonal roof; and near the right wall may be seen the small stone drain which carried off the water

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04. h− BURIED CITES OF CEYLON.
after the washing of the sacred relic. In the outer quadrangle there is an inscribed stone near the north wall, the inscription running round all four sides, leaving a blank square in the centre; and near it is an oblong stone pierced with 14 diamond-shaped holes. There are also the remains of two grotesque supporters, and several other carvings; and near the eastern entrance various broken stone figures have been collected, which were found in the jungle close to the temple. The pillars round the outside of the inner shrines are quite unique, with their spreading capitals, and square bases finished off with cobra heads. Notice also the small external shrines on the south and west side; and on the north, the spout and square receptable which carried off the ablution water from the Holy of Holies.
North of the Daladá lies the Thuparama, a large oblong brick building with an outer quadrangle and an inner vaulted chamber, over which is a low square tower. A bold frieze of lions runs round the base of the building. The principal entrance is to the east, and there is a smaller one to the north, and several narrow windows bisected by round stone pillars. Through these the thickness of the walls, which exceeds five feet, can be seen. The lofty entrance into the inner chamber is a remarkable specimen of a false arch, the horizontal layers of brick gradually approaching one another to form it. In a recess on the south side of this arch are the remains of a stairway, up which it is possible to scramble to the top of the building and the base of the tower.*
* Sir E. Fennent's account of this part of Polonaruwa is very puzzling. The picture he gives (vol. ii., p. 587, ed. 4) exactly corresponds to the Thuparama, while the letter-press describes it
as the King's Palace, with which it in no way agrees; and speaks of “several chambers' in it, no trace of which is now left.

BURIED CITES OF CEYLON. 05
Nearly opposite is the Wata Dágé ("round relic house,") a curious circular edifice standing on a raised mound, with four highly-carved staircases and a low stone terrace with an ornamental wall surrounding a tall circular wall of brick. The main'entrance was apparently to the south; and near it are some pillars which mark the site of the “ Mura-gé,' or guard-house. The flower pattern in high relief which is carved on each of the huge slabs that form the outer wall of the terraces is quite unique; and this pattern is repeated in open work on a smaller slab at the top of the eastern stairway. There is a good moonstone to the south of the building; and a very well-preserved series of lions and grotesque men running round the base; and a long inscription near the eastern entrance. Inside there is very little to be seen except the ruins of a dagoba, a broken sedent statue of Buddha, and an oblong stone with diamond-shaped holes in it. The Mahawalso mentions that Kitsen Kisdás, who reigned A.D. 1187, erected a temple of a circular form for the sacred Tooth, which perhaps may be the “Wata Dágé.'
Close to the “Wata Dágé,” and to the north of it, is the “Ata Dágé,” or house of eight relics; which, though now greatly dilapidated, bears signs of having been most profusely ornamented. It was apparently an oblong building, with two chambers and an outer enclosure; on the south wall there is an elaborate plaster frieze of dancers and tom-tom beaters; and on the east side there is a window bisected by a round pillar and decorated with the goose emblem. Near the outer wall of this building, on the eastern side, lies a huge monolith known as the “galpota' or stone book, as it resembles a volume of olas, or palmyra, leaves. It measures 28 ft. long, 5 ft, broad, and 2 ft. 5 inches thick, and bears a long inscription,

Page 71
106 BURIED CITIES OF CEYLON.
which records the virtues and great deeds of King Nissauga, who reigned A.D. 1192-1201. It tells how, when the King traversed a dry desert, and wished for water, an unexpected cloud instantly poured down aa abundant shower-how that the State elephant no sooner saw the king, then he raised a shout of triumph and took him on his back-how his Majesty wearing his crown and being decorated with the royal ornaments, caused himself, as well as the chief queens and his son and daughter, to be weighed in a balance every year; and by bestowing five times their weight of goods on priests, Brahmins and the poor, made them happy and caused a constant supply of rain. Finally, it states that this stone is the one which the chief minister caused the strong men of King Nissanga to bring from the mountain of Mihintalé at Anuradhapura. It is not clear why it was thought worth while to carry this enormous slab a distance of more than eighty miles. The inscription is surrounded by a moulding of geese; and a design formed of elephants, geese, and the sitting Buddha is to be found at either end of the stone.
The “Sat-mahal-prasāda,” or palace of seven stories, rises up close to it. The object of this building is not very clear; but it is in excellent preservation; several of the statues that ornamented each story are still visible; and by creeping into the east entrance, the remains of a staircase, which probably led to the summit, can be seen. The base of the building is 28 ft. 6 in, square.
There is a very curious collection of low pillars to the west, known as the “Bana Sálawa,' or preaching hall. The area it covers, measuring 32 ft, by 27 ft., is surrounded by pillars with eonical capitals, each pierced to receive

Page 72
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three stone bars, which, in one instance, remain perfect, The resemblance to the post and rail ornaments of the 'Sanchi Tope" in India, the oldest Buddhist monument extant, is romarkable. The remains of a ben Ltifully ornalmented in scription and of several inscribedl pilleurs of all, linique shape have been found in the centre of the enclosure,
Due east of this group of ruins lies a solitary building Known as the "Wishnu Dewila," approuched by a narrow jungle path about quarter-of-a-mile in length. This temple closely ressmbles the "Daladi Miligiwa" in conception and ornamentation, though it is not nearly so elaborate. The si hall ou ter chamber or porch is very much brolken, and access to the in incr shritic is prevented by the intolerable stench of the bnts. This shrine is surmounted by all octagonal roof in good preservation; and a long Tamil inscription runs along the outside of the southern wall.
Returning to tlh: Stat-mahall-prasádal, and first group of ruins, the path runs northward through jungle for about half-a-mile, and then emerges on the Rankot. (golden spire) dlágobal, which appears to hawe been built by the second Queen of Rájn. Párák rann Bibiu, between M. Lo. 1151 and 1186, and to have becn added to, and supplied with bil sement chapels by King Kirti Nissaugal ten years later. It is nearly 200 ft, in height, with it, cliameter of about 180 ft. Eight small shrines surround the base, with conical roofs, Arıl F, platin interior ; EL Endl betweet . each pair is a larger structure which perhaps supported an image or relic, Thespire of the dágobais, very perfect ; and the statues which surround the drum are plainly visible with field glasses. On the south-east side there alre the retumains of a brick figure of Buddha, about 8 ft,

Page 73
108 13 UT FRIE) (''L'''IES (ORF ('Y ILON,
6 in, high, and of the arched roof under which it stood; and to the north there is an old well. About 300 yards to the east there is a moulded and inscribed monolith, 3 ft. 4 in. square by 2 ft, 9 in, high.
Still proceeding northwards, the path leads to the Jétawanáráma, the most imposing of the Polonaruwan structures. It is oblong in shape and about 150 ft. in length; and is divided into two large chambers, the inner one being broader than the outer. The decoration of the exterior of the side walls, which are nearly 80 ft. high, is very elaborate and strictly Hindu in its character. The main entrance is to the east : opposite to it are some decorated pillars which are locally said to mark the site of the Gansabawa, or tribunal where minor offences were tried; but this is improbable. The entrance to the shrine is flanked by two polygonal turrets, and was originally guarded by two grotesque figures in high relief. The flight of stone steps (each 20 ft. long) is elaborately carved, and there is an inscription on the near side of one of the janitors. There was evidently a gateway between the outer and inner shrines; and at the western end of the latterstands a gigantic brick-work figure of Buddha, nearly 60 ft. high, which was originally coated with chunam. A small row of windows low down in the wall appears to have been the only means of admitting light into this shrine; and Tennent conjectures with some probability that by means of a window situated above the entrance to the inner shrine, and invisible from below, a ray of light was thrown full upon the face of the statue, giving it a mysterious halo amid the surrounding gloom. There
* Vol. II., Pt. x., ch. l., p. 593.

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LL S LL LLLLSAAS SaS SHE LEES
is in similar "trick of light" in the pagoda known as the cawe of An Andal, at Pagninmyo on the Irawaddy.
Close to the Jetawaniriima stands n small dagoba, known as the Kiri (milk) Wilhára, So-called from the white chuna II) with which it was originally covered. It is about 100 ft. in height, with n diameter of about 70 ft.; but it does not compare favourably with the proportions of the RELLıkot dágoba,
Another stretch of jungle intervenes between this digohn and the "Gal Wihára," which lics to the north. Just before reaching this latter, notice A curious stone on the right, close to the path, which is said to have been used by the painters to grind their colours in. The "Gal Wihira" (rock temple) consists of three figures of heroic size, and a shrine containing a smaller figure; they are all carved out of the same abrupt boulder of dark granite, The southernmost figure represents the sedent Buddha in the conventionul attitude, ELlis li ft. high above the pedestal, T'Ille background of the figure is elaborately carved: from the Squares of the pilasters, dragonis' heads project; and from the mouth of each issues a small lion, Higher up are representations of Hindu pagodas. The pedestal on which the figure sits has a bold frieze of lions alternating with a curious emble II) which III ay ba al pair of dragons' heads reversed. Next to this figure comes the shrine, which is cut out of the solid rock, and contains a rock-cut sedent figure of Buddha, 4 ft. 7 in. high, scated on a pedestal 3 ft. high. The background of the figure is profusely decorated with " deviyós” (minor divinities) bearing torches, grotesque lions, lotuses, ctic, and the pedestal of the statue has a frieze of alternate lions and dragons' heads. The whole has unfortunately been much

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11() BURIFI) ('ITES OF ('FYI()N.
disfigured by modern attempts to paint it on the part of a priest whose enterprize was in advance of his taste.
Between the shrine and the upright figure, the face of the rock has been smoothed to receive a long inscription of no particular interest. It consists of 51 lines of writing, and measures 13 ft. 9 in. The erect figure, which is 23ft. high, and stands on a circular pedestal ornamented with lotus leaves, represents “Ananda,” the favourite disciple of Buddha, grieving for the loss, or rather the translation, of his master. The figure has generally been taken for a Buddha, but erroneously, as it is obviously not in the conventional attitude of the standing Buddha; and further, the Mahawalso distinctly states that King Parákrama, Báhu' caused statues of Buddha in a sitting and a lying posture to be carved out of the same rock," making no mention of an upright statue of Buddha.
The reclining figure of Buddha is by far the finest of the three. It measures 46 ft. in length, and has suffered little from the ravages of time. The expression of com. plete repose upon the face, the listless attitude of the arm and hand, the carefully arranged folds of the robe, together with the extreme stillness of the sourrounding jungle, combine to form a wonderful realization of the ideal Nirvána.
One more ruin remains to be visited. It is known as the “Demala Mahá Séya,” and lies nearly half-a-mile to the north of the “Gal Vihara.' It is a large oblong building, very much in the style of the Jétawanáráma; its walls being covered with grotesque Hindu emblems and figures. Notice particularly on the south walls the frieze of uneasy human figures which appear to be supporting the building, and on the north wall the distorted, haggard figures of

BURIED CITES OF CEYLON. 111
the fakirs. The entrance appears to have been to the east; but the whole front has fallen in, and not an aperture is left whereby any idea, can be formed of the interior of the shrine. From the summit a fine view can be obtained of the suirrounding country; the mountain known as Gunner's Quoin forming a conspicuous object to the south-east.
A walk of about a mile-and-a-quarter from the Gansabawa bungalow to the south-east, partly along the margin of the lake, leads to a very interesting statue popularly held to be of King Parākrama Báhu, the one great monarch of the Polonaruwan epoch, and the constructor of nearly all its great temples and monuments. It is 11 ft. 6 in high, and is cut out of the solid rock. But the identification is most improbable.

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PART III.
N1ISCLLANOUS,

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SY
န္တိႏွစ္ထိ |}} 厦烈厦泳厦葱葱以
{
ಶ
MSCELLANEOUS
ARRIVIAL OF MALS AT ANURADHAPURA.
Mails from Matale, Kandy, Colombo and
stations on that line arrive at - 2-35 Р.м. Northern line mails (Jaffna, etc.) arrive at - 5 A.M. Mails from Dambulla - do 8 P.M.
DESPATCH OF MAILS FROM ANURADHAPURA.
Mails for Colombo, Matale, &c. close 9 A.M. & despt. 10 A.M.
IDo IDambulla, - do i5 A.M. do 6 A.M. Do Jaffna line - do 3 PM, do 4 P.M.,
TELEGRAMS.
Ordinary Telegrams are accepted between 7 A.M. and 9 P.M., except on Sundays, Christmas Day, New Year's Day, Good Friday and King's Birthday, when they are accepted between 7 A.M. and 9 A.M. and from 4 P.M. to 6 P.M.
Urgent Telegrams are accepted at all hours for offices that are open at the time such telegrams are tendered for transmission.

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16 BUT RED CITIES OF (EYLON,
MONEY ORDERS
are accepted between 10 A.M. and 3 P.M. except on Saturdays and Government holidays, when the hours of business are from 10 A.M. to 1 P.M.
Above rules applies to Savings Bank as well.
ANURADHAPURA RESTHOUSE.
The undermentioned established charges have been approved by His Excellency the Governor, under Clause No. 19 of Ordinance No. 10 of 1861 (see Colonial Secretary's letter No. 20 of 6th October, 1893):-
R. c. For occupation for 24 hours or under, each person 1 00 For a bed in addition to charge for occupation of
Resthouse, each night 0 75 For a couch do do do O 50 For stable for 24 hours or under, each horse 0 25 For coach house for 24 hours or under, each con
veyance O 25
For each bullock stabled for 24 hours or less 0 25 Each carriage or cart inside the compound for 24
hours or less O 25 For each bullock inside the compound for 24
hours or less Vans 0 12
The Resthouse-keeper will supply bed and table linen, if required, for which he is entitled to
charge :- For sheets and pillow cases, each night - O 50 For table linen, each day O 25
It is left to the liberality of travellers to remunerate the Resthouse-keeper for any services he may be called upon to render in the way of cooking, procuring supplies, water, &c.

BURIED CITES OF CRYON. 17
OTHER RESTHOUSES.
The undermentioned established charges have been approved by His Excellency te Governor, under Clause No. 19 of Ordinance No. 10 of 1861 (see Colonial Secretary's letter No. 20 of 6th October, 1893):-
R. c. For occupation for a night, or day and night,
each person - 0 50 For occupation for a day only for any time, each
person 0 25 For bed in addition to charge for occupation of
Resthouse, each night 0 75 For a couch do do do O 5s) For a horse for 24 hours or under () 25 For a coach house for 24 hours or under, each
conveyance o 0 25 For each carriage or cart halted inside the com
pound for 24 hours or less - w 0 25
For each bullock inside the compound for 24
hours or less 0 12
For each bullock stabled for 24 hours or less 0 25
The Resthouse-keeper will supply Bed and Table linen for which he is entitled to charge :-
For sheets and pilow case, each night - 0 50 For table linen each day 0 25
It is left to the liberality of travellers to remunerate the Resthouse-keeper for any services he may be called upon to render in the way of cooking, procuring supplies, water, &c.

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118
BTRED CITES OF CEYON.
°CIsIVAAGILS ‘V’ ‘Q’,
‘GHLVā ĶIQH IQIW 4.0/
*eaəmeđoqi os go uun L.(ə)oesusoțS og go u in I. (í) · Řpuey, og use IJL ‘uloď So-s æq; qɔɲɛɔ o, əuuụ uỊ “uurā og-ç seətegeW səqɔeəu pue “lu’d o we ɔɔtetuoɔuȚI L səaeəI qəeoɔ(o)--osagowy
0g 0Ț00 #T00 HZ,o svo y 6(p) ooittisoous II, 0g 600 ŻI00 8I* wow Og-g* 1xo y g« «».(eəI 8uļuuosu) ucurexsupeđute), 96 · 80g 0 I{}{} 9Ioso yT* →seseqņuey! ĝis, 90g 8ĝ!, os* Wort 6*JNoa 8 .*(døuuțGI) eẤoqqassy gø oggo 9{}96o swoa Oz-g*, , ,多表鲁(9) seuereqeH ZI s.gs, †93 s,'Isto a Oţ-g鼻免息分() varuuttur 09 800 †{}{} 9· Iwoa 0g-Z,‘W’à OĦ-z, 1 **警员曾se sooqueoT g/, I00 %(M)8'sv'w Oz-ZI备事象• » •epues eN
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“Ş NOIJLV JLS *GIHw|H.*AWIJI,
*GIGH’I VIÑO ÓNI?AI, CINÝ
VIII InɛIIN VOI “GHTIVALVIN —GIZIĶI VJ, GIHV, GIN V GHINIJ,

BURE) CITES OF CEYON,
119
THE RAILWAY TIME TABLE BETWEEN COLOMBO, KANDY AND MATALE.
STATIONS. WEEK DAYS. SUNI) AYS.
ZVA7. A.M. A.M. A.M. P.M. P.M., P.M. A.M. A.M. P.M.
Colombo Terminus Dep. 6-15 7-0 7.40 l-10 2-10 ... 6-80 7.80 2-55 Maradana Junction 6-20 7.35 7.451-20 2-1510 ( 3.40 7.35 8 8 Kelaniya 6-30 . . 7-57 -30 a 6-50 , , 8-18 Humupitiya 6-41 8 51-38 .. 6-57 . , 3-2) Ragama 6-55 8-23-50 . -10 3-33 * Henaratgoda 7-2O ... 8-50| 2-10 . . ... 7-30 . 8-54 *Veyangoda 7.40 8-25 9-102-353 9 10-557-50 8.25 4-18 *Mirigama 8 2 ... 9-33| 2-55| .. . . . 8-2 ... 4-40 Ambepussa 8-20 9-59 3-0 .. 8-25 ... 4-55 Alaw wa , , : 8-35 . . 10-15| 3-25 . , ... 8-40 ... 5. *Polga hawela Art's 4s 9-12 10-30 3-40. 3-58 11-458-53 9-125-28 Do for Kandy Dep. 9-15 10-33 4 3 11-48 9-20 5-27 *Rambukkana Dep. ... 9-3511 5 4-25 12-15 9-40 5-50 Kadugannawa ... 9 5 10-35 12-20 5-25 1-17 10-38 8-50 Peradeniya Junction Arr. 9-22|| 10-50, 12-39 5-42 1-34 10-55 7 8 Do Jn. for Kandy Dep. 9-25 11 0 12-40 5-45 -4 O 7.5 Kandy .| 9・45 11-15|12-52l 5-55 -50 1-15 7-28
lict vecia Kandy al Matale. SUNDAYS,
AM A.M. P.M. P.M., A.M. P.M. P.M.
† Kandy Dep. 7-45 11-23 2-45 645 5-55 2-45 7-40 Mahaiyawa. ... 7-50 1-29 2-50 6-50 6 0 2-50 7-45 Katugastota 8 8 1-42 3 5. 7 5 6-2 3 5 7.56 * Wattegama 8-18 11-57 3-2) 7-20 6-30 3-20 8-3 Ukuwela ... 888 12-15 3-43 739 6-50 3.43 8-88 * Matale Arr. 8-50 || 12-27 3-54 7-50 7 0 , 3-54 8-45
LSLSLSLS STATIONS. WEEK DAYS. SUNIDAYS,
JOW. A.M. A.M. P.M. P.M. A.M., A.M. P.M., *Matale Dep. 5-50 9-20 12-45 4-35 5-55 9-15 4-45 Ukwela . . ( 0 || 9۰۰ 8l || 12 57 || || 4 - 48 || 6 t} } } - 27 || 4 - 8 必 Wattegama 6-2) 9-50 1.6 5-t) 6-27 9-45 5-20 Katugastota 6-34 1) 3 1-33 5-2S 6-42 10 3 5-37 Mahaiyawu 6-45 1-14 E-44 5-40 6-55 10-17 5-50 † Kandy Art. 6-50 || 10-20 1-5U 5-45 7 0 է 10-22 || 5-55
Betw. cn kathcly and Colombo. SUNDAYS.
A.M. A.M.A.M.A.M. P. M. P. M. P. M. P. M. P.M. Kandy Dep. 2-5) 7 5 8 0 10-30, 2 0 5-557-10 2 () .. Peradeniya Junction 3-1 () 7-20 8-2010-57, 2-20 6-157-252-20 Kadugannawa ... 3-3) I-42 St. 11-18, 2-40 6-387.462-40 *Rambukkana ... 4-35 8-5ც; * = || 12-20 ვ-4ც ! 7-45 | 8-5U | კ-40 *Polgahawela Arr.4-53 || 9 6i ʻ, 12-38 3-56. | 8 | 5 || 9 `8 | 3-56 | .:
Do Dei.55 9-14. 9-39 12-46,458 69-1545422 Alaw wa ... . . 9-44 12.53. ,, 9-28| ,。腓4-35 Ambepussa , . || 10 0 1-10 ... 9.45 4-57 Mirigama . . ։ 10-16| 1-22 . . ... 9-58 ... 5-2 Veyangoda ..5-5010 310-40 1-454-50 8-550-20 4-505-85 ** Henarat goda .||68 || .. || 10-58|| 2 5| .. ... 10-38 .. 5-53 Ragama .6-27 ... 11-20 2-35 11 0 . . . 6-4 Hunupitiya . 6-38 . . 11-30, 2-50 . , ., 1-10 6-26 Kelaniya , .10-48 | 10-47, 11-0] : 0 5-80 | 9.40 li1-0 | 5-85 || 6-88 Maradana Junction Arr. 6-57 || 1 U-55! 11-50 3-1 5-40 9-50 11-30 5-446-45 Colombo A1rT. i 7- 5 ! 11 54 11- 58 s 3-17i 5- 5U) l1() () 11-38 ( 5-55 || 6-55
чыдам LSLSLS
* Resthouse near Station,
Hotel,

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12) TRIEI) (ITIES (MIF CEYLON.
POLCAHAYMWELLA TO ANURA DHAPURA,
WEEK| Sıx
SATIONS. STATIN..,
'ኳ ክT5-11ዞ!'ኒ'W5...
U.P. . JAWAW
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