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@D 份 似
『と _3 e@ ∞-+-+ © 分场 �> Qシ 从 No C 饥
 

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Sivan.andin DUraiSW traditional Hindu f up-bringing is reflect and her writings. He Ladies College, Colo did her London Un and obtained a Bache She has a Diploma in Carnatic Music special Western Music the ASSOCiate of the Trinit London. She also studied Bharata Natyam Chinese Brush Work painting During her husband's diplomatic postings a extensively in Asia and Europe. While abroa deal of time researching and Comparing Hin Culture with those of other Cultures resulting valuable Notes. And from this collection are tions She delivered the prestigious Kannaga in 1998 under the auspices of the National in She is
the President of the Saiva Mangaiyar Kal (Hindu Women's Society), the premier Hindu Women's Organisation in Sri Lank
the Manager of Hindu Ladies College, as Institution with over 2300 students
the Vice President of the Hindu Council Project Co-ordinator
a member of the UNESCO team - on the three ancient temples with the respective the Treasurer of the Sri Lanka Council of working for peace and reconciliation am faiths in the country and member of the chapters of Religions of Peace.
a senior member of the Sri Lanka Wome University Women's Federation.
The Cover page was designed by the author The paintings are by the author
 

y was born into a lly and the Hindu in her way of life schooling Was at bo 7 and then she brsity examinations or of Arts Degree ng in Weena and in College of Music and in later years
road, she traveled she spent a great u Thought, Art and na compendium of er different publica a Memorial Oration
titute of Education.
ga)
upra Grade
Heritage Site -
ports in the north. Religions for Peace bngst the diferent Asian and World
n's Conference and

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(Calta 1891 ||
(st Collection of Short

Mep)oÍ10g
Storeies prod Meppolies)
زیبایی که به 0/: a۲ باید به
O XII - 4.

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Vijitha Yapa Unity Plaza, 2 Galle Roa
Tel: (9411) 2556600
e-mail: vijiyaj www.vijith www.Srilank
Copyright (C) Sivan
ISBN 978-9
All rights reserved. No part o' stored in a retrieval system electronic, mechanical, p otherwise, without Written pe
First Edition
Printed by . Sarangee
No. 16, Sr Gangodaw Sri Lanka.

Publications ld, Colombo 4, Sri Lanka Fax: (94. 11) 25947.17 pa(agmail.com layapa. COm anbooks.com
andini Duraiswamy
55-66.5-247-5
this book may be reproduced, or transmitted by any means, hotocopying, recording or }rmission from the publisher.
December 2014
rinters
Soratha Ma Watha, la Nugegoda,

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Calta 1.9l
(st Collection of Short S
Sivanandini D.
www.vijithay
 

Men)Of tes
Stories prod Melpoolires)
uraiswany
apa. COn

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Yoga who is everything to me and without who
 

A painting depicting peace and serenity in the flowing waters of the river revealing a progressive series and vistas linked together as a harmonious composition, giving us the understanding of the unity இ of life in all things and in the beauty of Nature.
I dedicate these Cultural Memoirs to my se inspiration this could not have been written.

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. ഗ/
Beautiful memories and lovir flooding back to mind as I Wri edition.
When my early writings were a the pleasure andjoy which heus as if they were very much his they were his achievements fo would have been possible if not he gave me.
Now, though he is no more, confidence in the knowledgeth make sure that everything will
I am beholden to him and I i
memory.
Ido appreciate Ranga Chandrar regarding my writings and f to launch my book together others under the theme “Lite Unfortunately, this monogra occasion.
I would also like to acknowled of the Sunday Observer in memoirs first appeared.

////
ng thoughts of Yogendra come te the acknowledgment to this
ppreciated by many, I remember sed to take in them - a warm pride own achievements. And indeed r nothing which I have achieved for the encouragement and love
whatever I do, I do with the lat he would be there for me and work out well.
dedicate this publication to his
athina’s words ofenCouragement or giving me the opportunity with his and those of several
erature with Universal Reach.' ph was not published on that
ge Montage, the Feature section which some of these stories/

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To Mrs. Goolbai Gunasekera w would like to convey a special Goolbai for being with me."
To my Publisher I would like you," for publishing the book getting this done in elegant fo
Sivanandini Duraiswamy

Cultural Memoirs
ho has written the Foreword I acknowledgment. "Thank you
to convey my sincere "Thank and for the care bestowed in
ΥΊ11.

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When the traditionally reare career diplomat decides to Wri dozen countries the result ma hand knowledge of diplomats i and varied experiences of dip their personal history and are posterity, Sivanandini's husbar and self deprecating wife, "W. She did so and we have these er of "Cultural Memoirs'.
Much of her writing comes autobiographical - even in the fiction. For instance, the rea strongly united marriage of the Let’s take the pages on the Na "Spiritual Odyssey'undertaker explains some of the sculpture. blending art and piety, beauty a embodying Truth, Beauty and
"Bravo' says her husband kiss
The Nallur chapter is perhap varied articles. It has great p. schooled in Jaffna at Hindu Lac to the Nallur Temple. This is th an erudite account of legends a and beautifully related.

///
d wife of a Senior Sri Lankan te of her experiences in over a ukes riveting reading The first S rarely written down. The rich lomatic wives often pass into never recorded. Fortunately for ld, Yogendra, told his reluctant rite down your stories for me." nchanting chapters in this book
s through as being strongly 2 stories which presumably are der gets the impression of the 2 authoress in many of her tales. allur festival and Temple. ...the lby Sivanandini and family. She s to her son. "The figure is calm und holinessinperfect harmony Grace,"
ing her on the forehead.
s my favourite amongst these ersonal overtones for me who lies College and lived very close e first time, however, that such und facts have been so perfectly

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The daily life of an upper class.J. independence of a wife fror portrayed in 'Kaveri's Kitchen wife who, with her husband', Culinary genius to set up a ca cooked food to other family g Woven into this tale is anoth astrologer and the family pla The whole concept of Kaveri's at last it was ready for the op clap of distant thunder just bef “Kaveri's Kitchen" sprang to li
I wish it were possible to com] not a feasible idea I shall men to the Whispers of Nature” wh educational descriptions of Chi highly intelligent woman who task of actually studying it. Ast no doubt have had the opport She endeavours to explain the
“The spirit of the original (pai brought out just as a violinist the spirit of the composition" does not come easily as a for and Sung periods of Art. The wholeheartedly and judging t Art that I have been privilege brilliantly.
In Chinese Artone studies noto but also the student is trained

affna family and the burgeoning m such a family is sensitively '. It is the spirit of a new Jaffna S active cooperation, uses her tering business serving homeatherings or festive occasions. er fascinating side story of an nS for marriage of a daughter. idea became a family effort and ening ceremony heralded by a fore the Chief Guest arrived and fe.
ment on every story but as it is tion just one more - "Listening nich is possibly one of the most nese Arthrough the eyes of this has undertaken the herculean the wife of a diplomat she would tunity to study under the best. philosophy behind Chinese Art.
nting) must be understood and playing Beethoven brings out she writes. Such understanding eigner studies the Han, T'ang author undertook the venture by one or two examples of her d to see, she learnt her lessons
nly to produce the finishedwork how to prepare for her classes.

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Ritualism is strong and eachti] for her drawings she felt she v the Chinese Masters.
She painted hundreds of ink c graduate to paintings of flow highly advanced were landscap had to be perfected before any
This is a book all persons, sp read. Written elegantly yet sin understanding of the essential "reconciliation' after our civil , to translate it into Sinhala. H population have access to the personal experiences of a diplo of a Tamil woman steeped in h represent Sri Lanka abroad.
My personal enjoyment of Si is unbounded and I congrat publication of “CULTURAL MEM read' for all.
Goolbai Gunasekara

11
neSivanandini prepared the ink vas stepping back into the era of
ircles before she was allowed to ars or birds. Only when she was esallowed! Mastery of the brush thing else was begun.
ecially all Sri Lankans should nply it lays before the reader an Tamil woman. In these days of var it Would be an excellent idea ow few of the Sinhala reading ideas and in depth stories of the mat's wife and more importantly her own culture yet well able to
vanandini Duraiswamy's book ulate her on the writing and (OIRS. It is undoubtedly a 'must

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ര)/
محس۔
Writing the sequel to Momen since I was able to bring in moi collection of short stories. Thes during our life time.
Writing generally involves sc facts and expert opinions, mu of ideas to link up the whole i own memory store for all sto one's own experiences.
These stories were based not on East, Italy, India, Cambodia and (
I begin the Collection with the last the mid sixties of the last century several Middle Eastern Countries
The 1990s were conflict years in J ruthless control killing those wh based on Surendra who wants to Development Council. But had t of the Liberation Tigers!
Bathing in the sacred waters at Ha in the form of a story spanningji

/e
its in Culture was rewarding te cultural norms into another e stories are inspired by events
much of effort - collecting ling over the right sequence nto a good story involving my ries are ultimately variants of
ly in Sri Lanka but in the Middle China.
days of our posting in Baghdad in and the onward journey through
to Rome.
affna where the militants were in O didn’t toe the line. The story is contest the forth coming District
face this formidable opposition
ridwar is Kumbha Mela — a memoir
Ist two Weeks.

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Listening to the whispers of Na painting and how I was able to ac
art.
Similarly several stories have b
in our life time tracing them in
Sivanandini Duraiswamy Siva...duraiswamy 10gmail.com Kartigai 2014.

13
ture is my story about Brush work chieve something of that wonderful
een Written Culled from incidents
o Cultural Memoirs.

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ര,
Acknowledgment
Foreword
Preface
From Baghdad To Rome
Nihal And Nandini — “La Serenissim
A Senseless Killing
Kaveri's Kitchen
Tiruvannaamalai - The Spiritual Rel
The Spiritual Odyssey - Nallur
DariSanan
A Dip. In The Ganga
Listening To The Whispers of Natur
The Superior Blend
The Four Enigmatic Faces
The Inevitable Journey
The Symphony Of Margali
Fading Traditions
The Kilaali Crossing
Kannagi Narrates her Story
Sidhabaari - An Ashram nestling in
Himalayan Range.

//a/7/2
treat
е
the
12
17
43
65
74
93
108
108
122
135
147
167
184
193
204
216
234
248
248

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.ഗ്രം/ ശി/
:/് പ്ര/ഗ്ര / ()
VE a quiet residential ar
Residence with the colourful f breeze, stood apart from all th a suburb of Alwiyah, Baghdad, and for the last time in Baghda National flag going up, unfurli The previous evening while t flag, I had collected a handful and wrapped them loosely into do for the National Day celeb delicately as the flag unfurled
Yogendra, the Chief of Missio the Duraiswamys were leavin, from Baghdad via Jordan, Syl
1 The National flag is made up of m bow as the flag is hoisted, we are e The flag is the sacred symbol of ou symbolizes our country.

// @//
"/ ി/ //η ി/
ea — a cul-de-SaC. The Sri Lankan agbillowing softly in the gentle e other residences in the areaIt was an early spring morning d, the Duraiswamys watched the ng in the air showering flowers. le houseboy brought down the of rose flower petals and leaves the folds of the flag as I usually rations. And these came down itself the following morning.
in was transferred to Rome and gearly next morning motoring ia and Lebanon to the port of
any coloured bits of cloth, yet when we xpressing our adoration for the country. ir country's culture and its aspiration. It

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Beirut to sail by the Adriatica Rome, Italy.
Baghdad was one of my early d much from Yoga over the pas politics and its workings. Yoga take agreat deal of trouble tot views of others. In turn I wasy in learning everything aboutt career, the countries that he implications that may arise in
We had had an interesting sometimes a little frightenin, Abdul Karim Qassim the head days, over thrown and the Ba. leading personalities within
favour and many mopping up
I shudder at a distant memor boulevard by the River Tigri driving leisurely that partic around 10 am with Yoga and heard firing from the opposit kerb and go doWn," said Yog bent down himself with the minutes when the firing had and noticing that all was quiet you manage," asked Yoga an motion and moved on. Many
the kerb and proceeding forw experience for us since we wi got caught up in a Cross fire

Cultural Memoirs
to Napoli, and then by train to
iplomatic postings. I had learned t few years about International was a patient teacher and would each me giving his views and the 'oung and very much interested he diplomatic service, about his was posted to and the political ow and then.
posting in Baghdad though g – So many coups d'etat With of government during our early ath party taking over and many the party being thrown out of
sessions over several nights!
y! It was an incident along the S behind Hotel Baghdad. I was ular Friday (sabath) morning the baby in the car, when we e direction. "Pull the car to the a in a commanding voice and baby in his arms. After a few subsided, we raised our heads we decided to move on. "Could d with a nod, I set the gear in others were also moving out of ard. It was a rather frightening are wondering whether we had

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From Baghdad To Rome
Two rival factions were firing vehicles were moving in oppo of fire and the Sound was louc the process any of us may ha perhaps been killed "Inshal been saved," said an Arab frie the story later. The Arabs wer rivals were easily got rid of Dy
LLT CONTINNOIT.
Despite Baghdad being a diffi a time we both remembered,
Embassies, evenings with Ara listening to Arab religious ml much like the recitation of our ending and it was sad to leav friends, Yoga working to creat two countries, introducing tea bilateral arrangements, both and writing about the ancient
There were forty four embass since the diplomatic commu other well. The rounds of coc brought us together often. So officials were very friendly - at the club in the winter, sprin
Two mornings before we wer went back to the Chancery to e and ready for his successor anc by any one of our numerous fr
2 An Arab phrase meaning "by God's something positive will happen thr

19
at each other as their respective site directions –it was abarrage l, menacing and frightening. In ave got into the cross-fire and lah,” by God's Grace you have ind of ours to whom we related earmed during those years and sing of gunshot injuries was not
Cult post, our years there were filled with dinners at different ab dignitaries and friends and usic which to me sounded very Hindu mantras. All these were e. We had our ways of making 2 friendly relations between the into the Iraqi market, making Yoga and me reading, studying
land of Mesopotamia.
les at that time in Baghdad and nity was Small we knew each ktail, lunch and dinner parties me of the senior Foreign Office we would play tennis together g and late summer afternoons.
e due to leave Baghdad, Yoga insure that everything was done to answer any last minute calls iends. It was then that he had a
Grace' - an exclamation indicating that ough God's Grace

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surprise telephone call from Office inviting us to lunch att He accepted this unusual invi were being invited a second t
He returned home later sayi call from the Foreign Office i tomorrow?" "No. You must k who is being invited and why minute!” I asked. "Yes it is f chuckled and added "US - for together." We really felt that y well. The Foreign Office had a departing Sri Lankan Head o and now a get-together befor was greatl
After a sumptuous lunch wit warm goodbyes at the Alwiy a quiet evening before we er journey to our posting in Ror
JORDAN
Our first stop was the Hashemi Cradle of three great religion and Islam, Jordan is the Hc together irrespective of race,
Jordan is surrounded by Syl unlike these neighbouring a mixture of fascinating hill
3. A member of an Arab princely fan grandfather of Muhammad PBUH

Cultural Memoirs
a senior member of the Foreign he club the following afternoon. tation a little surprised that we imel
ng, "Did I tell you that I had a nviting us to the club for lunch lave forgotten. I am Wondering We are being included at the last or an important couple," Yoga Poo and Yoga, an informal get we had done our partin Baghdad formal farewell reception to the f Mission several weeks earlier 'e We leave the following day. It
in the Foreign office friends and 'ah Club, we returned home to nbarked on the next lap of the
ne.
te” Kingdom of Jordan. Being the s, namely Judaism, Christianity
oly Land which brings people
colour or Creed.
ria, Iraq and Saudi Arabia and Countries, it is geographically S and valleys with picturesque
nily claiming descent from Hashim – great

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From Baghdad To Rome
towns and villages. The mou Country; however, the climat
The River Jordan, celebrated was baptised is the largest ri area very fertile. Archaeolog that prosperous settlements B.C.
THE DEAD SEA
Situated by the Jordan valley Arabia is the Dead Sea“ Som and sixteen kilometres wide. the River Jordan and many mountains, the salinity is so Could live in it - hence the te
The Dead Sea area was where has it that the Vespasians le collect the facts of the holy f falling upon the community b holy Scrolls were taken to the the impious enemy. And toge community of the New Coven. Surging tide of history that li the great dispersion of the Jew nothing remained of these C and ruins of a graveyard.
The Christian faith spread fr Rome fell, Mohammed's arn Within miles of this “grave ya
4 The Dead Sea is one of the stranges
on earth – 1300 feet below Sea leve one swims on it rather than in it.

21
ntains form the backbone of the e is akin to those of desert areas.
as the river in which Jesus Christ ver in the kingdom making the ical evidences have confirmed existed in Jericho around 4,000
7 and the ancient area of Wadi e Seventy two kilometres long Though it is perennially fed by other streams in the adjoining high that no living organisms im Dead Sea
the Covenanters lived. History gionaries were coming here to aith and that the Romans were y the Dead Sea. It was then that nearby caves and hidden from her with the scrolls, the entire unt at Qumran sank beneath the lid waste Jerusalem and began S. For nearly nineteen centuries venanters but a dim tradition
In the Orient to the Occident, lies, the Crusaders all passed rd," never even suspecting its
stretches of water and is the lowest spot . It has no outlet and it is so buoyant that

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secrets. Today in the twentiet up these secret scrolls. The Cov the mists of the past are close wrote the Gospel.
While we were there, the guid community, more than Bethleh of Christianity and paradoxical the uniqueness of Jesus Christ much thought and learning, it shake the foundations of Chris to the understanding of the Fa
As we walked along the rutty un We found the remains of a set
monastery - perhaps the cent which had Written the Scrolls Essences. Tradition has it that Jerusalem about 140 B.C. and
themselves for the end of the v a pure religion.
We also felt fascinated that t chosen these caves to hide their We did see the Scrolls in the mu go into the caves.
AMMAN
Amman is the capital city of history dating back to the thir as “Rabbath Ammon" in the B defeated the King of Ammon t peaceful messengers. The city is described in the Bible as the

Cultural Memoirs,
h century Qumran is yielding enanters who appear through in scholarship to the men who
2 was saying that the Dead Sea em might have been the cradle ly the scrolls put into question Be that as it may, today after is said that the Scrolls do not stianity but greatly contribute
ith.
paved roadleading to the caves of buildings remarkably like a re of the religious community Known to the historians as the t the Covenanters abandoned lived in the desert preparing world when God would restore
he Covenanters should have priceless biblical manuscripts. seum of Jordan but we couldn't
Jordan. It has a pre-recorded d century B.C. It is also known ble, the “city of waters.” David o avenge the insult to his two was captured and looted. "Lot" father of the Ammonites.

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From Baghdad To Rome
Soon after the Arab conquest remained a small village unt Jordan in 1922.
When the Romans conquere Christ, they embarked on an e the theatre, the citadel and th of the Roman ruins that we sa to impress upon their new su
The Roman Theatre to my monument dates back to the in three tiers into the Semi-ci around six thousand spectat used for outdoor festivals and
The picturesque setting and th circular curve enhanced its b nature's wondrous work.
And as we were sitting there a setting, I closed my eyes anc screen appeared the London none other than Sir Malcon S a full house. The opening chic were indeed a fascinating ex outdoor theatre following the mind visualizing the Conduc Beethovan's recollections of C of the natural world's beauty.
The Citadel is on a hill top ov has a ruined Roman Temple to the temple housed a thirty foi

23
: the city started declining and il it became the capital city of
d the city in the years before xtensive building programme - le Temple of Hercules are some W. Perhaps the Romans wanted bjects their building skills
I mind was impressive. The third century A.D. and is built rcular curve of a hill and seats ors. To this day the Theatre is
orchestral concerts.
1e three tiers built into the semi eauty being very much part of
Idmiring the wonderful hillside i for a moment on my mental
Philharmonic orchestra with ergent conducting it playing to ords of the Pastoral Symphony perience as I was seated in this } music of the Symphony in my tor in action!! The music was jountry life evoking the feeling
erlooking the Amman valley. It Hercules and it is believed that Ot gOd.

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JERUSALEM
This is the Holy City of Jorda Crenellated brown stone wall today. Renovations may have yet the line of the old Roman are seven gates in the walls o city through St. Stephen's gat
As from the Bible
As Jesus assembled with the ty took the bread, blessed it, an eat; this is my body." He tookt "Drink ye all of it for this is in for remission of sins."
After Supper it is said that th where Jesus sat to meditate. he was taken away to be putt
On the morning, he was bound the Governor who was being harm him (Jesus) since he was people answered differentlychildren." And so Jesus was b donned in Scarlet and spat up
Tradition has it that Jesus was way of the Cross,” from the ha the place of the skull. While be he stopped in nine stations al in five spots within the Churc
The best preserved portion beneath the present convento

Cultural Memoirs
un. The city is surrounded by a which is in good condition even taken place from time to time Avalls have been followed. There f Jerusalem and we entered the
e.
welve disciples for his Supper he d gave it to them saying, "Take he Cup of Wine and said to them, ny blood that is shed for many,
ey went to the Mount of Olives It was while in meditation that to death by the High Priest.
and delivered to Pontius Pilate, persuaded by his wife not to innocent and just. However the "His blood be on us and on our ound, stripped of his robes and Ion by the people.
taken along Via Dolorosa-“the all of Pontius Pilate to Galgotha, ing dragged through the streets ong this Via Dolorosa and later h of the Holy Sepulcher.
of the Via Dolorosa is found f the Sisters of Sion. This is about

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From Baghdad To Rome
six feet below the present str to us that this was the path t hands and with our heads bo taken by Jesus Christ in solem opportunity given to a few on had to respect all religions, m
We next Walked outside the lies the Garden Tomb. Somebt of Christ. It was a beautiful an to sit for a quiet moment in narrow bridge took us downt bridge was a stream with bea and rambling vines on either
murmuring in a low sonorous where the Lord was actually incantation and part of the garden tomb which was one of
The Words of F.W. Faber came Via Dolorosa –
"Ever when tempted in Beneath the "olives' m My God alone outstret And bleeding on the e
BETHLEHEM
Bethlehem first occurs in Bibl the death of Rachel. It is som This town is famed as being ti It was here that David spent was here that Samuel came to King of Israel.

25
eet and was clearly mentioned that he had taken. With folded wed we walked along the path in homage - this was indeed an ly and the training that we had adeus value this opportunity.
walled city of Jerusalem where lieve this to be the actual tomb d peaceful spot and we decided meditation. A walk along the he corridors of time. Under the utifully tended beds of flowers sides. We then heard our guide voice saying, "This is the spot I buried." Her words were an spell that was upon us in this sheer serenity and quiet beauty.
to my mind as we walked along
lake me see, pon pierced shade, ched and bruised,
rth he made."
ical history in connection with etimes referred to as Epheath. he home of the family of David. nis youth tending sheep and it anoint the young shepherd as

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As from the Bible
"The angel Gabriel was sent f named Nazareth to a virgin es of the house of David. The an virgin, "The Lord is with thee; t and bring forth a son and sha be the son of the highest and t throne of his father's house. be no end."
"And it came to pass in those decreed that all the World Sł went to his home town for the provinces of the Roman Empi Galilee out of the city of Naza of David which is called Beth house andlineage of David. To wife being great with child. A baby was delivered. She wrap in a manger because there wa
It was really great to be in Bt memories. We were shown int( Descending down we came tot the child was born. A silver St this is an inscription — ‘ “Hic Natus Est” — here Jesus Christ
And from here we were taker to the Chapel of the Mangerborn. Nearby was the spot wh offered their gifts at the feet o that Simeon blessed them and

Cultural Memoirs
rom God unto a city of Galilee, poused to a man named Joseph gel said unto Mary the blessed hou shall conceive in thy womb ll call him Jesus. And he would the Lord God shall give him the And of his kingdom there shall
days that Caesar Augustus had hould be taxed that every one 2 taking of the census in all the re. And Joseph also went from areth into Judaea unto the city lehem, because he was of the gether went Mary his espoused and while they were there, the ped him in cloth and laid him s no room for them in the inn."
athlehem - a treasure trove of the Holy Grotto of the nativity. the altar within the place where tar marks the spot and around de Virgin Maria Jesus Christus was born to Virgin Mary."
down a shallow flight of steps the place where he was actually ere the wise men from the east f the Infant Saviour. It was here said unto Mary - "Behold this

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From Baghdad To Rome
child is set for the fall and ris for a sign which shall be spok
As we returned from Bethleh A sense of quietness engulfed to the dawn of the age-old spl stopped at the Grotto of Get said to have prayed before t this spot where he spent the as a wild unkempt garden. Ir garden tended by the Francisc the eight olive trees solemnl blue sky. We exclaimed aloud beauty as we plucked a twig f for keeps sake!
The tomb of the Blessed Vir Gethsemane Garden. The Ba. in the vicinity of the tomb of this Church marks the exact of tortured indecision, Jesus Solitude seeking courage fo him. "None of mankind shou so alone," were his thoughts.
The Basilica is a memoria had a beautiful facade in B Construction on the foundat various domes were gifts of is called, "Church of all natic
Just above the garden is the M associated with the last days in amazement, I seem to har that the fishermen were ret

27
ing again of many in Israel and en against."
em the air was crisp and nippy. the area taking us back in time endour of the Christian era. We hsemane where Jesus Christ is ne crucifixion. I had envisaged last Solitary self-searching vigil stead we saw a small well kept an monks. It was amazing to see y standing sentinel against the at their two thousand year old rom a tree which I have pressed
gin Mary is also located in the silica of Gethsemane is located Virgin Mary. We were told that
spot where on the final night Christ sought to deliberate in the ordeal that lay ahead of ld ever feel the agony of being
to Jesus Christ's agony and zantine style, This is a recent ons of an earlier building. The lifferent countries and hence it nS.'
funt of Olives which is intimately of Jesus Christ. As I stoodgazing e gone back in time imagining rning in the late afternoon and

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landing with their haul of fisi of them is Peter, the big fisher "Wasn't Peter the one who be was wondering what I was say I could capture these moment that I was able to contemplate was still sacred and unchange
JERICHO
Jericho, just north of Jerusale. great seat of civilization. Dow characters walked the stree Joshua Commanded his trump Prophet Elisha made the bitt it that the Covenanters found born among the rock caves ( now famous Dead Sea Scrolls the Wilderness near Jericho a of the River Jordan. It was in t overlooks Jericho that Jesus a tempted by Satan had said, "C shalt Worship the Lord, thy Serve.'
JERASH
Until recently buried under streets of Jerash. The city a product of the 1st and 2nd Ce conquerors had had a handi with the decline of the Roma it was a deserted site with des "Like the ruins of Jerash" is a any desolation.

Cultural Memoirs
n on the Coast of the lake. "One man," I thought and said aloud, 'came St. Peter of Rome?" Yoga ing and foundit intriguing that is with so much clarity. I too felt all this because the atmosphere
2d.
m and Bethlehem, had been the n the ages many of the Biblical ts of Jericho. It was here that ets to blow down the walls and er Waters Sweet. Tradition has | refuge even before Christ was of Qumran where they hid the John the Baptist preached in nd baptised Jesus in the waters he Mount of Temptation which fter forty days of fasting when et thee behind me Satan. Thou God and Him only shalt thou
the dust of centuries were the S it now stands was mainly a ntury A.D. and many successful n its making. Its decline began n Empire. By the 13th century ert winds blowing sand across, in Arab proverb which refers to

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From Baghdad To Rome
The Colonnaded Forum, the S the Temple of Artemis are th the hub of the Jerash ruins.
The Colonnaded Forum was is a common construction of preceded by the Triumphal based On the Arc di Tito of connected to the northern par of Columns.
The Streets of Columns must with the magnificent Corint Theatre is fantastic in that th about five thousand Spectator Temple of Artemis dedicated is a Crowning construction in t said that the Columns of the t and if one were to put his/her one hears the rustle and Crack We did hear the rustle and Cr only a distant whisper!!
Looking at the Colonnaded FC Columns, the triumphal arch a was a spectacular, beautifull Buried under the dust of cer referred to as the “Pompeii ol spent amidst the ancient buil but a never to be forgotten ex Wrought, a man-made yet tr splendour. We left the ancient
5 Little did we realize at time that we
next posting.

29
treet of Columns, the theatre, e more important sites within
a market place. Such a forum the Roman age. The Forum is Arch whose Construction was ancient Roma. This forum is tofthe city through the Streets
have been a beautiful avenue hian and Ionic columns. The ere are about thirty tiers and S could be accommodated. The zo the patron goddess Artemis, this ruined capital of ruins. It is emple sway gently in the wind ears close to one such column, le within, whispering the past! ackle within but the story was
rum, the Corinthian and Ionic nd others, we realized that this y preserved Roman Creation Ituries were these ruins aptly the Middle East." To us a day dings was not only fascinating perience - a vast yet artistically iumphantly eternal uncanny city but the memory lingers on.
} will be seeing more Roman cities in our

Page 34
30
PETRA
One of the World's most exciti in travel is a trip to "Rose-red encircling Craggy rock mount Jordan. The Nabataens had car of the surrounding mountains streets and to rock carved pal: towering temples and exquisit ofa cliff-the Wonders of toda
The Romans added their rock streets to this city soon after as a Roman Province.
Petra declined and was lo rediscovered in the beginnii rugged as the ever lasting hil palaces and tombs retain thei its famous rose-red light. She past and this rock-carved cit Huxley Summed it up as "prov
S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S
To us Duraiswamys, Jordan W Bethlehem, the Dead Sea and Petra Will always remain un to see the ancient city of Jes I hugged to my heart ever si come true. And as my Christi I would recollect those lovely sing the carol "Silent Night. for the first time into the wo of Austria Sung by a young p

Cultural Memoirs
ng and adventurous experience city of Petra," hidden away in ains, south of the Dead Sea in ved their capital from the rocks Rock stairs lead to rock carved aces, temples, tombs etc. These ze tombs occupy the entire face
ay.
carved theatre and columned Ihey conquered and annexed it
st to the World until it was ng of the last century. Today, ls themselves, Petra's temples, r grandeur and splendour with guards well the secrets of her y remains a mystery as Julian focative, unique and fantastic."
ith its Holy Cities of Jerusalem, the Roman ruins of Jerash and ique in our minds. The desire us Christ and the Roman ruins nce I was a girl is now a dream an friends celebrate Christmas, trips through the Holy City and Holy Night" as it flowed gently ld through the Snow clad Alps tiest - silent and holy indeed it

Page 35
From Baghdad To Rome
must have been to him and to to be in Austria during Yultide
Our whole trip through the h walked along the original rou the Via Dolorosa bearing the C road flanked by a convent. At convicted had to carry a heav no exception.
All the Study that i řad done down helped us to understand of Jesus Christ. He died on the ( on the third day arose from the took upon himself the sins of
Travelling through these regic and awe to both Yoga and me.
LEBANON
Our next stop was "that bles Biblical land flowing with mill this country.
Set on a Coast line reminiscent Countries and spiced with the country of Lebanon has been . Stone Age. The Phoenicians
Lebanon and they seem to have as Mediterranean's slickest sale was from the Grotto aux Pigeon
6. The curdled effect of the snow on th – derived from Liban' yoghurt in At

3.
all of us who have been lucky
oly cities is indescribable. We te that Jesus Christ took along ross. This is below the present that time all those who were y wooden Cross and Jesus was
and the notes that I had taken this ancient land and the story cross at Calvary, entombed and e dead. In bearing the Cross, he nis people.
ons was a journey of reverence It was a wonderful experience.
ised land beyond Jordan, the k and honey," as Moses called
of the western Mediterranean Arabic spirit is Lebanon. The a settled community since the were the original settlers of 2 handed over their reputation smen to the Lebanese people. It is a monument carved by wind
emountains, gives the name of Lebanon rabic.

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32
and tide, that the Phoenicians distant lands using it as a laur
The charm of the place is a s Middle East with a Western it that from the map of the ancient times, one could glea streets run precisely on the li fascinating discovery.
Being in the arc of the Medite the Mediterranean Sun in Wit One could literally chase thi the capital city Beirut to Baa gorgeous sea-Coast to the Cec
When dusk comes down upo silhouettes the lavish water of this city is that it has stood and Civilizations for Over thi heritage as the Lebanese say, i it is today (in the decade oft ancient city.
BYBLOS
Arriving at Byblos, we stoppe stream called the 'Dog River. the mysterious barking of ghc the approach of the enemy.
The actual city of Byblos lies once filled with rich Phoe harbour appears to be a sta
7 The Sun God’s abode

Cultural Memoirs
sent their business messages to ching pad for 'carrier' pigeons.
pecial amalgam of the ancient sophistication. Tradition has Capital city of Beirut dating to In the fact that the present day nes of the original goat paths - a
rranean region Lebanon enjoys liter and a not too dry summer. 2 winter Sun in Lebanon from ulbek” and Biblos and from the lars, for skiing.
in the eastern Mediterranean it front of Beirut. The uniqueness at the cross roads of continents "ee thousand years. Though its s lost in legends of desert tribes, he 1960s) a startlingly new yet
d on the banks of a mountainous 'The stream got its name from stly dogs which always heralded
in a sheltered Cove which was lician ships. Today this quiet ge backdrop for the miniature

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From Baghdad To Rome
marble amphitheatre perfect cliff. It is said that as far back; city. It is the place of the Phc scrolls which gave the Bible it
The Jeita caves and our boat ri and I pictured ourselves as W. oarsmanthrough a majestic an part of Dante's Inferno with Sh
Exceptfor the Softpaddling oft interrupted the majestic Sce Seeing Nature's Work on calci a fleeting vision of the Vedica of the Holy Ganga shrouded thapas.
One could imagine a variety of must have been the seat of slot for millions of years, carrying accumulated to form these Sta
BAALBEK
Our next stop Was Baalbek anc to attract the eastern eyes. W of the six towering pillars.
Baalbeklies nestled in a plainb at an altitude of thousand me way of a monumental staircas of the temple and into the c the idea of a courtyard was e indicates how well the Roman great flexibility to the tradition

33
ly preserved on the edge of a as 800 B.C. this was a university penician alphabet and papyrus
Sale.
de were fascinating. Both Yoga e were propelled by a standing deerie underworld. “Was this a laron as our oarsman?' I asked.
the oars in the dark Water Which ne everything else was quiet. um in the form offigures, I had ge when rishis sat on the banks in blissful silence, performing
forms and pictures. This grotto W and steady dripping of water particles of calcium which have lactites and Stalagmites.
ther Roman city that was built e stood breathless at the sight
2tween the ranges of mountains tres. One enters the temple by e which leads to the entrance ourtyard. We understood that Sentially an oriental idea and S adapted themselves with the S and Customs of the Conquered

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34
people. Along the Courtyardar roses and acanthus leaves. Th carrying garlands of flowers, i
These tall columns almost six sky as it were testify to the gr
Temples were built in honour but the Arabs on Conquering into a fortress ruining the arch remains is stupendous,
As Yoga and I Wondered th understood why the Greeks cal Sun. The whole temple appeal the Sun moved east to west. W. sunlight play on the massive te and changing the stone from The sun would spotlight now through the archways and ne: sharp shadow - nature's way
Walking through the histo interesting experience. We W. the temples, combined with t the impression of a bygone ag rises high into the sky in perfe watched the spring Sun mellow the tallest pillars among the (
To us Baalbek was a wonderf as we were about to embark generation of the great build
8 Courtesy - Whither Bound - my Co

Cultural Memoirs
e the pillars carved richly with Le symbol of Jupiter the Eagle S seen on one of the pillars.
iy meters high supporting the andeur of the edifice.
of Jupiter, Bacchus and Venus Baalbek transformed the area itecture greatly. Yet that which
rough Baalbek's Temples we ledit Heliopolis—thecity of the red in a magnificent setting as e sat down watching the Spring amples, mellowing the columns a soft rose to a warm yellow. a tumbled pillar as it moved xt split a column in half with a of playing on man's creations.
ric Sacred enclosure was an are struck by the immensity of ne beauty of their proportions, e conveying the grandeur that ct Communion with nature. We ing the six columns that remain rumbled splendour.
ul introduction to the Romans to Italy to meet the younger rs themselves.
impendium of Notes

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From Baghdad To Rome
THE ADRIATICA - the Liner
We were in Beirut after an inte Syria and Lebanon. The city of May in Lebanon, slightly cold a through the deep green trees. their moorings and the dista the dove across the Sea of Bib
Like Switzerland, Lebanon toc centre but also a centre for b the Middle Eastern cities an their money in the Beirut ban Lebanon, The ladies join their travelling by air or sea. It was trip. Most of them speak onl Very few knew English and we
Adriatica, the Liner that we W. at Pier X... in the harbour at B Small floating island.
We drove up to the Pier in our after dropping us that after Baghdad. We got down from t graceful Smoke stack silhouet sky. This was my first long trip the Mediterranean with stops decided that after the hectic d the much needed break from would be relaxing if we went making the arrangements to t
I stood slightly behind father
were to travel in. As we were

35
resting sojourn through Jordan, Beirut appeared pretty. It was and Crispy and the Sun Sparkled
One could see the boats out of nt sails appeared like wings of los.
has not only become a tourist banking. The oil rich sheiks of d the Gulf Sheikdoms deposit ks and spend their summers in husbands to do their shopping this Crowd that we met on this y Arabic and perhaps French. 2 couldn't converse with them
ere to travel in lay in herberth eirut. She looked beautiful - a
Mercedes Benz and the driver noon, was returning back to the car and were admiring the ted against the late afternoon by Sea - a five day trip through in Alexandria and Sicily. Yoga lays in Iraq, it was time to take the diplomatic schedule. "It by boat to Italy," he decided ravel by the Adriatica.
and son, admiring the boat we Watching, the Liner appeared

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36
Small and beautiful - from stel was elegant. We were whiske entered through an archway thoroughly excited and my en Yoga too. "Yes I am happy that be exciting and interesting, ye my hand that was in his.
A uniformed officer received t there. He was waiting for us to said Yoga to which the officiali nodded with a smile. There we their families - resplendent with their husbands to shop it holiday and were returning he
The officer next checked on h we would be taken to our Pren will be a message from the Ca ship set sail and later to join signalled to a steward saying," and the bambino to their Cab are already in your rooms."
The steward came up to us ar Giovanni-your steward for thi to our Suite - a two birth cabi one for us and the other for N. opened into the promenade de an Italian flair with plenty of
Our cabin was Small and el par excellence. It is elegant expectation," I exclaimed thor be dreaming and just then ask

Cultural Memoirs
rn to stern and hull to sky she 'd to Pier x... directly and we marked "Premier Class." I Was thusiasm rubbed off a little on We are going by boat - this will at relaxing," he said Squeezing
he few of us who had gathered ) say our name. "Duraiswamy' inquired "Diplomat?" and Yoga are a few other rich Sheiks and ladies who had perhaps come in Beirut or perhaps come for a
ΟIY1Θ.
tis passenger list and said that nier Class rooms and that there ptain inviting us to watch the him at his table to dinner. He Take the Ambassadore, Signora in," and added, "Sir your bags
ld introduced himself as "I am strip." We went along with him n with premier class facilities - aresh and the maid. The rooms eck and the whole place exuded ight and space.
gant- **This is extravagance and beautiful - beyond my oughly excited. I felt that I may dYoga, "Am Idreaming!”“No!

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From Baghdad To Rome
Not at all; yes we are travelli said Smiling, pinching my ar. not dreaming
We entered our cabin and the fruits on the table, was the i the ship set sail from the bric and later to dinner at his tab to whom such invitations are
Naresh was tired and I decid
- , change and have his dinner dinner for two, gave instructi to go down.
The wheel house was situate the front of the ship. On hanc were ushered in to meet the C. “Buono sera Ambassadore, Sig and kissing my hand. The br spread with charts, instrumer giving a perfect view.
We stood quietly watching gradually leaving the Pier. Sl until she left the port. She the Mediterranean Sea. Being as and steadily. "Do have a pleas pleasure if you join me to din had walked up to us as we we
Yoga and I stood on the dec leaving the harbour facing t noment, Lebanon had cast a the dark red sun sinking belo

37
ng in this liner, to Napoli,” he m to show that I was certainly
reby the baskets of flowers and nvitation, inviting us to watch ige outside the Captain's office e. We were the privileged ones given.
ed that he should have a bath, und go to bed. I ordered a light ons to the maid and joined Yoga
2d on the bridge which was at ling the Captain's invitation we aptain who welcomed us saying, gnora' shaking hands with Yoga idge was set in an orderly way 1ts and glass panelling allround
the ship get underway and he was assisted by several tugs 1 turned westwards towards the mallish liner she moved slowly ant journey and it would be my ner," repeated the Captain who repreparing to leave.
k of the Adriatica watching it he Mediterranean. And at that istinct spell on us. The image of w the horizon like a ball of fire,

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38
the statue of the Lady of Leba. the church steeples and mina the pattern of the skyline and Smell of flowers and Arab Spic
The Banquet
The ladies of the more affluent Sheikdoms came to Beirut to d this was the fashion centre wh shopping in keeping with the collections.
Dinner was quite an event tha who were invited for the bat occasion. The ladies were in b regal in all their finery. I was but Yoga's words were encour anyone - simple and elegant, chose a temple saree in deep b broad border and accessories realized that heads turned-ar The Saree is an unusual drape does look exotic when carried
The Captain received us at h shaking hands with Yoga and style
Dinner was Sumptuous – an appetizers, soups, aperitifs, Though this spread of deliciou that we must be careful not to "We must remember that we we must look good, slim and

Cultural Memoirs
non towering into the sky with rets givinga strange beauty to the night heavy with the Sweet es, Were etched on our minds.
Arab families from the different o their shopping - to the Arabs, ere they could do their seasonal 2 trends - Summer and Winter
it first night. All the passengers nauet were dressed up for the eautiful flowing gowns looking a little nervous as we went in aging - "My love is no second to he said approving my attire. I lue with an orangethreadwork to match. And as we walked in I ld I knew that I looked very well. and is appreciated by many. It | well by the wearer.
Lis table Saying, "Buono sera," kissing my hand in true French
endless selection of entrees, Several courses and desserts. S food was tempting we decided eat too much and put on Weight. have a posting ahead of us and plegant," we decided.

Page 43
From Baghdad To Rome
And towards the end as the dancing began. Yoga guided m after a couple of dances we e. to our cabin.
The next day began very earl Sea air. It was breakfast in bed take it easy and not hurry to usual was up early humming a and anxious to jump into thi "Let's make this a fun trip for out of bed and getting ready. children and the child was a settled down to play since the
That late morning after our afternoon, both Yoga and I played tennacoits and Swame
The Adriatica docked at Port Sa child and the maid were stayin Captain and the Chief Stewar child that both father and mot but that we would be back for ( be with him. "Have your meals the play room and have your ( but before you fall asleep, we assuring him of our early retu be in Safe hands before we left
A number of us disembarked Mr. S. who was now in the En us in Baghdad met us at the ha have planned the trip for you, Yoga the details in the train.

39
orchestra started the waltz, e expertly around the floor and xcused ourselves and returned
y having been refreshed by the and we decided that we would do anything special. Our son as ll the while thoroughly excited e bed to play with the father. him," said the father jumping The play room was full of little little shy at the beginning but
father was with him.
Son had settled down for the Walked along the promenade, njoying a leisurely pace.
aid early the third morning. The gbehind and with a word to the d, we left having prepared the ther would be out the next day dinner and that the maid would at meal times, enjoy playing in linner early. Get ready for bed, will be back,' the father said trn. We ensured that he would
to catch the train to Cairo and bassy in Cairo and earlier with rbour to take us to Cairo. "Sir I "Mr. S said and discussed with

Page 44
40
THE PYRAMIDS
Not far from modern Cairo Memphis the capital of ancient were in the land of the Pharoah of their kings the Pharoahs- as in large impressive tombs- the ago. We understood that the g were mounds of earth. This Mohenjo Daro, another moun Northern India. Around 3000
stones sloping in steps to the
by a smooth upper layer becor
In climbing the steps we had te dead pharaohl Pharoah Khufu' was built in exact proportions point towards the four compas understand that it took hundre tomb and that it took twenty for this tomb were brought act raised on huge long ramps of n
The body of the king was placed and in it many of the king's pe believing that these would hel the gods.
In the first quarter of the last young King Tutankhamen whic was found almost intact. This pyramids in the Valley of The abounding wealth and luxury

Cultural Memoirs
is the plateau of Gizeh near Egypt. It was unbelievable - we S. The ancient Egyptians spoke Gods. These kings were buried Pyramids, five thousand years graves of the earlier pharaohs rang a bell as we thought of d that had been excavated in B.C. the graves were built of top. These were later covered ning the pyramid.
D bend - paying homage to the s tomb is the biggest of all and ; - the four corners of its base s points. We were also made to sd thousand slaves to build this years to complete. The stones ross the River Nile by boat and nud bricks and wooden rollers.
in a stone Coffin or Sarcophagus rSonal belongings were placed p the pharoah's journey to join
century that the tomb of the lived around 1357 – 1349 B.C. tomb was beneath one of the 'bes and is a testimony to the of the long past era.

Page 45
From Baghdad To Rome
The worship of the Sun God Pharoahs and his divinity and the people. The story of Osiris be the descendent of the Sun king he taught his people ag. and was very popular among t that his brother killed him and through her magical powers b.
Osiris was worshipped as a Go revered as the son of Re and a Osiris and entered into the etc
It is the Great Sphinx of the Gi tombs. It depicts the great po God. It is carved out of a Solid with the human head on the b that the wanton destruction C had damaged the head of the S of greatness of the Pharaoh.
This whole trip to Cairo, to t the pyramids was exhilarating Embassy and our return to th by Naresh's hugs and kisses.
We spent another day at sea.
Mediterranean Sea to the Sout were turning northwards, Gi and gave us a brief description town and I am over 2500 years "You know the word Syracuse it is the mysterious ancient Gre a major power in ancient time Greek history, culture and arch

41
i Ra was associated with the power were acknowledged by is important. He is believed to God. Tradition has it that as a riculture, writing and the arts he people. The story continues it was his wife, Queen Isis who rought him back to the eternal.
d of Nature. Each Pharaoh was fter death he became one with arnal.
zeh that stands guard over the Wer of the Pharaoh as the Sun piece of rock and is portrayed ody of a lion. It was sad to learn of the invading Moslem armies sphinx yet it serves as a symbol
he home of Tutankhanen and followed by a late lunch at the e ship where we were greeted
From Port Said we crossed the thern shores of Italy and as we Dvanni appeared on the Scene I of Syracuse. "This is my home old," he began. And continued, is pronounced as Syrakuza and pek city in southern Italy. It was is and the city is notable for its itecture. You know that it is the

Page 46
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birth place of the pre-eminen Archimedes, “ he finished feel
"How come you have a typical he replied that his father was It Greek. "But at heart I am a Gr wanting others to hear him!
We passed Sicily, moved north the harbour in Napoli, early glide into the portas we finish to disembark.
A Small group of passengers v asked to meet together for ea came out, we were welcomed the Embassy to take us by trai posting.

Cultural Memoirs
t mathematician and engineer ng justly proud of his ancestry.
Italian name," I asked to which alian and his mother was partly eek," he whispered quietly not
wards and the ship pulled into morning. We watched the ship 2d our breakfast and were ready
with diplomatic passports were rly disembarkation. And as we by a group of Sri Lankans from in to Rome our next diplomatic

Page 47
. ///// .،ހ///// ')/,
%. was flying over
height of over forty thousand and the passengers were gradu night. The Business class cabi and amongst the passengers W bride Nandini who were going on their way to Germany.
The families of the couple had the Katunayake International on their assignment to Germal that things had worked out we
They were flying via Dubai in moment the plane took off, N little elusive to Nihal as the e came rushing in. Both Nihal a very rough times - divorce pr

#Ꮄ / . * / / ." // - (/ പ്ര//// (z
the Arabian Sea, Cruising at a feet. Dinner had been served tally preparing to retire for the in was only partially occupied Tere Ambassador Nihal and his to spend a few days in Venice
gathered at the VIP Lounge at Airport to send the newlyweds ly. All were excited and happy 'll after a very difficult spell.
the Middle East to Venice. The andini dozed off. Sleep was a vents of the past few months nd Nandini had been through oceedings for Nandini and for

Page 48
44
Nihal, trying to convince his p someone outside the Sinhala
Unknown to her, Nandini was her at Peradeniya. They were Political Science and Internati Science. It was during Nihal's st the University and for him it w he would keep looking at her great looker with a lot of savo breeding and a certain elegan that she is a good person at attracted her to him.
He realized that she was a Ta pottu on the forehead and w would react to such an affair, it was a foregone conclusion. destiny since the time he had out the game of my life," he t
Nihal was an only son and hac in the family. His elder siste were away in Galle both worki Secretariat. The younger girl Colombo University.
Aiya' was very special to yo anything that he wanted don his confidante. He would conf that were developing for Na please be careful - don't fall
9. In Sinhala the elder brother is ref 10 Nihal's younger sister

Cultural Memoirs
arents that he wanted to marry old.
is heartthrob ever since he saw contemporaries - Nihal doing onal Affairs and Nandini, Maths 2cond year that Nandinientered as love at first sight! Un noticed pleasant demeanour. "She is a ir faire and has a distinct air of ce and dignity about her. I feel heart," were his thoughts that
lmil since she was wearing the as wondering how his parents and marriage! However, to him He had known that she was his met her: "This is karma playing hought Smiling to himself.
two sisters. He was the Second r was married and the couple ng in the Kachcheri, the District was reading mathematics at the
ung nangi” and She would do e and became as she grew older ide in her, especially his feelings indini. She was cautious. "Aiya in love with Nandini since she
}rred to as aiya; in Tamil it is father

Page 49
Nihal And Nandini - “La Serenissimo
is a Tamil. Both Thaathi an it," she would constantly tell saying that he would marry h
Nangi was very worried an conversation with her mothe Cousin who was marrying a Mu. "Ammi What Would you say if - perhaps a Muslim or a Tamil. her saying, "What nonsense ar got all Wrong things in your sil "Nihal is an only son and heir and he will remember his du when he thinks of marriage an
This conversation was very d great deal. She didn't know wh now when he had completed h for the Foreign Service Exami
He was one of the lucky few wh and was posted as a cadet in t study Consular work in prepa
"Aiya is on top of the World hav How do I tell him about Ann thought praying that all shou
Nandini had met Nihal Seve interested in the activities of so in tennis. Both enjoyed pla play mixed doubles together. F meetings didn't mean anythi
1 Father 2 Mother

45
d Ammi wouldn't approve of him. He was adamant and kept er or no One else.
ld one day emboldened by a regarding the marriage of her Islim girl, she asked the mother, Aiya were to marry an outsider "The mother merely dismissed e you talking. You seem to have ly head!" she chided and added, to the family wealth and name ity by this family and parents ld will not do such a silly thing."
isturbing and worried Nangia at totel herbrother especially |is final exams and had, applied nation.
D was chosen to enter the Service he Immigration Department to ration to a posting abroad.
ring been selected to the Service. 's feelings on this subject," she ld be Well.
2ral times as they were both the Students' Union and more ying the game and would often However, these games and these ng to her - they were chance

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encounters and nothing mort would watch her from a dista
All these thoughts came unb Business class Cabin. He felt sorted out and that Nandinian remembered the day Nangin was marrying her cousin Dr. N knowing what to do.
Those were difficult days for approaching Nandini and conv I should have been friendly v her, he thought feeling mise
Instead of brooding over the p. into his work and gradually
joined the staff at Nandini's s was gradually befriending her brother. She was taken aback Nandini marrying her cousin.
Not knowing that the father ha Nangichided herself on being not speak about her brother." She kept asking herself, pray lamps for her brother's well b
Nihal was in Colombo on a happened. He was deeply affec approached Nandini or at lea year or so later, he was trans Delhi as Counsellor. He was WC and that he was left alone! Y that he should be near hom

Cultural Memoirs
e. To Nihal it was different; he nce and his love grew steadily.
bidden as he lay awake in the grateful that things had been dhe were married. He Suddenly entioned to him that Nandini Mohan. He was taken aback not
him. He chided himself for not seying his feelings. 'Or perhaps, with her or kept in touch with rable that he had lost Nandini.
ast, he plunged wholeheartedly built up his career. Nangi had chool as a science teacher and not saying anything about her when she heard the news about
ld arranged Nandini's marriage, slow to get close to Nandini and "What will happen to my Aiya." ing, doing Bodhi Puja, lighting eing at the Bellanwila Temple.
home posting when all this ted and felt that he should have st kept the friendship alive. An ferred out on a posting to New rried that Nandini was married et something kept telling him 2 in Case Nandini needed him.

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Nihal And Nandini — “La Serenissimo
Strangely this thought kept
would put it away for beings these thoughts were so realth he was now married to Nandi
Despite these strange though The plane was cruising at a Except for the night light, the passengers were asleep.
Nandini was now awake. Sh Softly and not wanting to dist thoughts drifted to Mohan an to divorce me, is it?' What's v you a divorce."
She shuddered remembering "How could I have married arranged by her father soon was teaching in her old Schoo doctor specializing in Paediat Hospital. To his thinking this and brother getting married charts' matched nothing coul
To the Tamils such a marriage widowed sister to agree to th woman who had no particu marriage was fixed without a
Nandini without really thinkir cousin - the son of her "athai,
13 Such an arrangement is referred t
narriage 14 Horoscopes

47
Coming now and then and he illy. However, it was there! All Lat he forgot for a noment that ni.
ts, he felt tired and fell asleep. height of forty thousand feet. cabin was dark and most of the
e found her husband Snoring urb him she lay quietly as her d his angry words - "You want Vrong with you? I will not give
Mohan's harsh tones that day. Mohan?" she thought. It was
after she had graduated and l. Mohan was his sister's son, a rics working at Lady Ridgeway tradition of children of a sister
was very good and since the ld be better
was ideal and he persuaded his is marriage. She was a simple lar doWry ambition and the
hitch.
!g about it, agreed to marry her ' the father's Sister. She didn't
D as “maaththu Sadangu" - an exchange

Page 52
48
realize that she was a romar committed to his studies and in the Paediatric field And W. "Nandini you are lucky to ma and that too to a handsoned to her. Luck was non-exister she told her friends Smiling
Nandini’s mother Was Ver Nandini," was her anxiety. Sh not compatible and that it m her husband rather nervously was very keen on getting t sure that this marriage woul knowing that it was foolish work," was his sharp reply s
Nandini married her cousir she moved to the groom's he and at home helped her mot
Within a year she realized th:
He is a good man and she di cousins and had known each she liked and respected hin him. He was cold and disint that she was not falling in interested in me and in our 1 like this," she would cry he
her marriage and this wore she had
Deep down she was a drear own thoughts on love, relati

Cultural Memoirs
tic while her cousin was totally was acquiring a niche for himself len her colleagues in school said, rry young, soon after graduation octor," it did not mean anything It where she was concerned and y, "It just happened this way!"
γ Worried. Would this do for Le realized that this marriage was ay not work. She gently sounded | Since she knew that her husband his marriage through. "Are you d work?' she asked her husband of her to do so. "Of course it will ilencing the voice of dissension.
1 and in keeping with tradition, one. She continued her teaching her-in-law with the house work.
at her marriage was a big mistake.
tn't want to hurt him. They were other from childhood. Yet though l, she was unable to get close to Brested in marriage! And she felt ve With him. "He is cold and not narriage. How could go on living "self to sleep. She felt trapped in down every shred of confidence
er and a romantic . She had her inships and marriage. She wanted

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realize that she was a romani Committed to his studies and v in the Paediatric field! And wh "Nandini you are lucky to mar and that too to a handsome dic to her. Luck was non-existent she told her friends Smilingly
Nandini's mother was very Nandini," was her anxiety. Sh not compatible and that it ma her husband rather nervously was very keen on getting th sure that this marriage would knowing that it was foolish o work,” was his sharp reply si
Nandini married her cousin she noved to the groom's ho and at home helped her moth
Within a year she realized that
He is a good man and she did cousins and had known each C she liked and respected him him. He was Cold and disinte that she was not falling in lo' interested in me and in our m like this," she would cry her her marriage and this wore
she had
Deep down she was a dream own thoughts on love, relatio

Cultural Memoirs
ic while her cousin was totally as acquiring a niche for himself en her colleagues in School said, ry young, soon after graduation ctor," it did not mean anything where she was concerned and , "It just happened this way!"
worried. "Would this do for a realized that this marriage was y not work. She gently sounded Since she knew that her husband is marriage through. "Are you work?' She asked her husband f her to do so. "Of course it will lencing the voice of dissension.
and in keeping with tradition, me. She continued her teaching her-in-law with the house work.
ther marriage was a big mistake.
n't want to hurt him. They were ther from childhood. Yet though she was unable to get close to rested in marriage! And she felt fe with him. "He is cold and not arriage. How could go on living self to sleep. She felt trapped in town every shred of confidence
er and a romantic . She had her lships and marriage. She wanted

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Nihal And Nandini — “La Serenissimo
a child and he didn't seen inte the responsibility of a child. whole being; she was an only c and Cuddle. Yet giving the ben improve she left things to wo
An year later nothing seemed with her to family functions
rather busy on that day and later to lunch. With time, Nanc and that he really never mean would go with her mother-inparents knowing fully well th later. He was a recluse and d represent me," he would say :
They spent a great deal of time had grown away from each ot of years later, things were th He was totally un concerned. never found time to discuss teaching, her work at School important to him.
She realized that this was no m She Could live this lie. And sł "Could I live without Mohan, our married life is empty andl With this make belief?' She not bargain for this sort of m penetrate his armour.
Perhaps he expected less of m love, warmth, share their t

49
rested. Perhaps he did not want An aching emptiness filled her hild and wanted her own to love 'fit of the doubt that things may k themselves out with time.
to have changed. He did not go saying that he was going to be hat if possible he would Come ini realized that this was a hoax t to keep the appointment. She law and/or sometimes with her at Mohan will not conte even idn’t like Such functions. “You and get back to his work.
apart especially Mohan and they her in different ways. A couple e same. Nothing had changed. He did not share his work and things with her regarding her . Nothing concerning her was
arriage and was wondering how he would cry to herself asking, he only man I have known. Yet nely. How long could I continue was very worried since she did arried life. She found it hard to
rriage than she did. She wanted 'ue feelings for each other, a

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companionship, children to for too much," she worried.
She confided in her mother sa Working. “Knowing you I reali Appa was adamant. Maybe it when you are young. You Col have children and move on it said than done. "Would I wa herself. I have been bitten O. Sometime till I recoup," she t
Nandini was an only child especially her mother. She hac his daughter in marriage to he was giving his daughter anything to go wrong.
Finally when she mentioned to with this marriage, he was tak me, is it?” he asked reacting a You are a doctor's wife and I you are happy. What is Wron and said, "No, I am not giving wanting to listen to her any m
Nandini decided that she hac belongings taking Courage in Mohan and his mother saying come for her. She had rentec and making ita comfortable p in. Her mother did not Want not quite realizing how her f.

Cultural Memoirs
love and cherish. "Am I asking
lying that her marriage was not Zed this before the wedding. But is good to separate and that too uld start all over again, marry, 1 life," she said. This was easily nt to marry again," she asked nce and let me live quietly for hought.
and was loved by her parents da good childhood and in giving his nephew the father thought a good husband not expecting
Mohan her inability to continue ten aback. "You want to divorce 1grily. "What's wrong with you? was under the impression that g with our marriage" he asked you a divorce." He finished not ore and walked out of the room.
to act. She quietly packed her to her hands and left a note to that she was leaving and not to an apartment near the school lace to live, she planned to move her to move back to her home uther Would react.

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Nihal And Nandini – “La Serenissimo
When there was no one about, into the car and drove off feeli
Back at School, it was all tensi for the third term that year. It Day was over where Nandinia organizing the project that the in. It was their project and th and set them. Syllabi had to be Ordinary Level students were guidance programmes comple set, typed and made ready for terim final examination.
Once the exams were over, the of papers, discussion of answ marks and mark sheets had to on the last day of term.
Nandini and Nangi were kept time to be together. The past í for Nandini. Her realization t well in her life was bad enoug by her husband's indifference decision to annul her marriage
Nandini had grown thin and th gone. She was losing her grip difficult months, Nangi was
from my husband," said Nan "Why? What went wrong," b whole story came out. At the
she had mentioned her Sad St. off her chest.

51
she quietly put her belongings ng free at last.
on when the school reopened was a busy term. The Science nd Nangi were kept very busy girls were involving themselves e teachers helped to improve completed for the classes. The on study leave with the career ted. Question papers had to be the other classes for the third
re was more work - correction ter scripts with the students, be prepared for the Prize Day
very busy and had very little ew months were very difficult hat everything was not going in for her. This was aggravated and negligent behaviour. Her Created problems of insecurity.
e radiant glow on her face was on herself. And during those ner anchor. “I am separating dini all of a sudden one day. gan Nangi and gradually the end Nandini felt relieved that ry to her young friend. It was

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"Now that you have confidedir began Nangi and explained tha 'Nihal" - the word did not rin did not wait a moment and CC about them being at Peradeni the Foreign Service, about bo in Union activities and playi blurting out, "Nandini, he lc with you since he met you at 1 I were taken aback that you w completed thoroughly excited
“And now you are free,” she sa the winds. "You may not hav for you since you were so con you have got the chance so pl brother to call you from Delhi and begin to know one anoth
Prayers were answered it se wanting something better tha her, of Nangi wanting a peacef and of the brother himself Wa beyond his reach.
Nandini found it difficult to : all Wrong. She was suddenly
loneliness and emptiness. emptiness that filled her was Mohan was not interested in
And when things had changed being given a second chance falling into place as Nihal was i would call regularly saying thi

Cultural Memoirs
me, let me tell you something," t she was Nihal's younger sister. gabell immediately but Nangi Intinued telling her about him, ya together, about him being in th of them having participated ng tennis together and finally oves you. He has been in love ihe University and both he and ere marrying your cousin!' she
.
lid with joy throwing caution to e recognized my brother's love servative in your Outlook. Now Base do not lose it. Can I ask my ? You could speak to each other εγ.
bems. The prayers of Nandini n what her marriage was giving ul solution to her brother's loss nting something that had gone
accept that her marriage went overcome by sadness, extreme She realized that the aching
the longing for a child which giving her.
she did not realize that she was in life. However, things started in touch with her from Delhi. He at he would take care of her and

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Nihal And Nandini — *"La Serenissimo
that she should not worry any realize that here was Nihal W. was totally oblivious of his lov
She gradually felt warmer t to sense the warmth. She was divorce with him. She would W bound to his plans for their fi own, travelling widely, meetin greatly relieved that she was t ife,
The plane was cruising at a hi. were resting and most of then totally oblivious to her surrol Mohan stil kept coming back i
She shuddered and for a mor married to Nihal and that th Sensing the shudder and that reached for her and pulled her her assuring her that all was brought her closer whispering past is over, Let us not think . a future to ook forward to - 1 more travel, our children - tw together."
“All's well that ends well,” thoi Nandini. However, as Nandin went back to the time when h his parents.
Nihalos parents were very dif Want to marry a divorcee and

53
more. She didn't for a moment anting to marry her while she
Θ.
owards him and he was able s able to discuss details of the rait for his calls and listen spell uture having children of their g dignitaries and so on. She was being given a second chance in
gh altitude. All the passengers n were asleep but Nandini was Indings. Instead, the words of to her keeping her wide awake
nent forgot that she was now e harrowing days were over. his wife was rather quiet, Nihal into his arms gently and kissed well. Tightening his grip, he g, "You are now with me. The about it anymore. We do have more diplomatic assignments, Jo or three and a peaceful life
light Nihal with his arms round i fell asleep Nihal's thoughts e discussed his marriage with
ficult at the beginning. "You i that too a Tamil girl," were

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their initial reaction to which divorcee and she is a Tamil. Th want to marry her. I lost her ol this second chance, so please C
Nangi had also done a great di her brother. "Thathi," she onc Aiya is a strong man and is no of the youngest to have been now he is coming back home both of them will go to Germal
i The father was surprised to se up for the brother and Nandini what do you know of Nandini?
"Ammi you forget that both N school and that both of us are have opportunities to work organize programmes. We hav become very friendly. True s believe that she tried hard to ke deserves a better deal and I fe out the best in her. They would she would look after Aiya with and she have been in touch wit to get married. I feel very close to this marriage because Aiya
Since Nandini and he had de to get his parents support. It to Wade through a barrage of that. "Please let me do what I interested whether she is a Tar my name and my children and

Cultural Memoirs
he replied, "Yes, Nandini is a ese do not matter to me since I nce and now I have been given to not stand in the way."
eal of spade work on behalf of e said, "You must realize that ving up in his career. He is one appointed as Ambassador and to get married to Nandini and ny on this new assignment."
e his young daughter speaking "How do you know all this and "," asked the mother.
andini and I teach in the same : Science graduates and we do together, compare notes and e over the past several months he is a divorcee, but I firmly pep her marriage but failed. She el Aiya would be able to bring i make a handsome couple and all her love and care. Both Aiya th each other and are planning to both of them. Please say yes wants it," she pleaded.
cided to get married, he had was rather difficult. He had questions - why this and why think is best for me, I am not mil or a Sinhalese. She Will bear what is important, she will be

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Nihal And Nandini — “La Serenissimo
nine. To me this is all that ma bless both of us. We need your
Once the parents had given t fiancée, they took care of the civil ceremony. He rightly felt make the arrangements sinc granted.
Though Mohan had said that divorce, he had not conteste that the marriage had broke had seen it coming from the b to see Nandini feeling relieved and that she was now marryin Nihal and realized that he wa marry Nandini and spend his sceptical and not too sure how see," were his thoughts.
Nihal and Nandini were mari followed by a luncheon receptic Club. They had invited only colleagues to be with themonth together with their parents, th a simple poruwa ceremony, me to his short sermon where he tying the Pirith noolto protec
They next went to the Sivan blessed them and brought the and helped Nihal to tie it ro touching moment as he tied
15 The nuptial cord with the sacred sy

55
tters. Please Thathi and Ammi
blessings most," he said.
heir blessing to Nihal and his wedding arrangements of the that Nandini's parents couldn't ce the divorce had just been
he would not give Nandinia 'd it. Her parents were upset 1 up even though the mother beginning. Now she was happy l that that chapter was closing g Nihal. She felt happy to meet as a good man who wanted to ife with her, But the father was I things would work out. "Let's
ried at a quiet civil ceremony on at the Women's International
close relations, friends and lis occasion. Afterthe reception, ley first went to the Temple for t the Vihaaradhipathy, listened invited Nandini into the fold t them.
Temple where the Kurukkal thaali kodi 15 from the Sanctum und Nandini's neck. It was a the thaali kodi with the thaali
mbols threaded on it

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and the priest put the kumkum sacred symbols. In all her exc Nandini had forgotten this tha. that Nihal remembered it eve To a Hindu girl this is importa Nihal remembered this. Nandi the mother quickly stepped in to tie it.
And now, miles and miles awa them, they were flying into Ve off from Dubai and being ai nearing its destination. The Ca plane was gradually descendi few minutes time. The bird's e. the descending aircraft was fa these thoughts and he thankf for the touch down. Both of th disembarkation.
VENICE — “La Serenissimo”
Venice was their destination. built on water and was synon powerful mercantile city state
All the arrangements for their on his instructions by Hilde h Embassy in Germany. The dri Mercedes Benz from the Benz f. driven it across the Alps to Ve the Ambassador and his wife a
Ambassador Nihal and his bri imposing VIP lounge at the

Cultural Memoirs
, chadanam and a flower on the itement and earlier problems, ali ceremony and was surprised in though he was not a Hindu. nt and Nandini felt happy that ni's parents were surprised and to help Nihal and the kurukkal
y and with everything behind nice. The aircraft having taken borne for several hours was aptain had announced that the ng and would be landing in a ye view through the window of scinating. Nihal was reliving all ully put them aside preparing em tidied themselves ready for
Steeped in history, Venice was ymous with romance. It was a around the sixteenth century.
stay in Venice had been made Iis Secretary at the Sri Lankan ver had picked up Nihal's new actory in Stuttgart and both had 2nice. They were now awaiting tthe Aeroporto.
de Nandini stepped out of the Aeroporto Marco Polo as the

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Nihal And Nandini – “La Serenissimo
Ambassador's Mercedes Benz was in slacks and a silk shirther in Paris at Jean Patau wh UNESCO Annual Sessions. She slim figure behind Nihal who
Hilde his secretary, spotted t transfixed. She drew a breath look great. It's no wonder tha his sweet heart!"
Nihal and Nandini were very t the airport. The diplomatic pa tickets took them through th As the car drew up, their bags Nihal and Nandini got in with And the car pulled away from
And as they were nearing the show his bride St. Marks Squart "Nandini, St. Mark's Square, San Marco are the important l Square first before dusk settle the Square. They were the on for the flock of pigeons. Usual people but that afternoon it w
Seeing them, the birds flew high above the Basilica. It was and Nandini felt happy to be decided to walk to the hotelth "St. Mark's Square is only a but centuries away in time," opulent design, intricate Byza

57
slid by round the kerb. Nandini an outfit Nihal had chosen for en he had gone to attend the looked extremely chic in her was in a full three piece suit.
hem and for a moment stood and said to herself- "Oh! they the waited all these years for
ired and were anxious to leave ssports and the première class e VIP lounge without a hitch. were loaded into the car while
Hilde and the driver in front. the kerb.
r destination, Nihal wanted to 2 even before going to the hotel. St. Mark's Basilica and Piazzo andmarks here. Let's go to this Sin," Nihal said guiding her to ly people in the Square except ly the Square is crowded with as empty.
round them and rose soaring a beautiful site and both Nihal there and after a few minutes at had been arranged by Hilde. short distance from the hotel e told his wife adding that the ntine mosaics and status as an

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icon of Venetian wealth and recognized landmark around
There was a nip in the air and the Palazzo, Nandini shivered promptly removed his coat ar
Arrangements were made for Palazzo facing the Grand Canal iconic feature. Meandering th Canal is its main thoroughfar
The Palazzo was a beautiful old room allocated to then overlo the hotel where they were give Ambassadore, Signora," said i had given the details while ma greetings were very new to Na the language was new and t and tiring. Though tired she f relieved that she was now ma gradually fading away.
Nihal had hadanearlier posti Italy as First Secretary. He ha visited Venice. Deep down in to himself that he would go ti He had been waiting for here married to another man! He ku be his. This wish was an arde wish which after years had cc
Nihal wanted Hilde to arrang Canal close to St. Mark's Squa time with his wife. Both need

Cultural Memoirs
puissance make the Basilica a the world.
as they were walking towards and shrank closer to Nihal who ld put it round her shoulders.
them to stay at the legendary which is perhaps Venice's most rough the heart of the city the 2 lined with old buildings.
hotel next to the Palace with the poking the Canal. They entered an a warm welcome – "Welcome che receptionist. Perhaps Hilde king the reservations. All these indini. Being in Venice was new, he flight from home was long elt happy and content. She felt rried to Nihal and the past was
ng at the Sri Lankan Embassy in ld travelled widely yet had not is mind he had made a promise Venice with his wife Nandini. ven after knowing that she was new that Nandini would one day nt prayer and it was a strange nne true.
: a room overlooking the Grand re. The week in Venice was his ed the break and needed to be

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Nihal And Nandini – “La Serenissimo
together after the last few diff proceedings, his coming on th were very tiring and painful
At that moment Hilde and the “Mime! Sir!’” addressed Hilde I are leaving now. The car h garage and here are the keys. and all arrangements have t first service this morning and Germany. As you cross the Alp Zeppelin where another servi new vehicle for the long run Curtseying.
“Gracie tanto," Said Nihal tak from Hilde andmentally decid leaving for Germany.
Though they were very tired, take Nandini on a short gond of the Palazzo hailed a gondo “Si Ambassadore,” said Hilde guest he was about to take. ' and swept a low bow welcomi
“Si gondola! per piacere,' sai started coming back to him
"Ecco," he replied helping th speed into the swirling water
"At last! I am now able to d looking forward to doing with together in Venice," said Nih

59
icult months - Nandini's divorce le Scene, hisparents’objections days.
chauffer appeared in the lobby. ) saying, "both the driver and as been parked in the Palazzo Sir! Your bags are in the room een done. The Car has had its it is ready for your trip back to syou have been booked in Hotel ce would be done preparing the along the autobahn," said Hilde
ing the keys and the road map ing to study the roadmap before
yet before retiring he wanted to Ola ride. Just then the Manager la introducing the new comers. : alerting the gondolier to the Si Ambassadore,” he repeated ng them to his gondola.
d Nihal remembering as words
em to the Seat and started to s of the lagoon.
O Something that I have been my wife. Isn'titlovely to be here Lal Squeezing Nandini's hands.

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"Look at the sky and see the the fading evening light," he sa a short gondola trip that first
"Let's go in," he said guiding They were both hungry and ti white wine knowing that Nar their flavours. "This is a starte rice, with vegetables, ham an wine. "What's this," asked Nan a starter and now what is this, - to toast our marriage. We a juice and sparkling wine," he
All this was very new to her wines. Nihal enjoyed the wine interested in introducing Nai wine and toasting.
The next day was extraordin shone over the rippling water pleasant and both decided to Walked for several hours alc hardly speaking yet comfort together.
After strolling through the ai trattoria forunch. Havingbe meals at trattorias dotted all me introduce you to somethi is an interesting eating outfit its rustic simplicity. It is a pu members of the family are ir Invariably, the father or som

Cultural Memoirs
zhanging light going golden in aid as they were returning after evening in Venice.
his wife towards the Palazzo. red. He ordered a light chilled dini was unused to wines and r," he added and ordered risotto d parmesan cheese with Bellini dini, “You Called the earlier one she asked. "This is champagne re doing this with fresh peach Said.
leave alone the sipping of the es especially with food and was indini to this art of sipping the
arily clear and bright. The sun 's of the lagoon. It was cool and walk through the streets. They ng the streets holding hands ilable in their silence in being
lcient Streets they stopped at a 2n in Italy Nihal enjoyed having over the country. "Nandini, let ng very Italian - the trattoria. It , casual and unsophisticated in rely family business where the complete charge of the place. etimes the mother is the chef

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Nihal And Nandini — “La Serenissimo
turning out wonderful simple plenty of vegetables and fresh
As they walked in they were who was the cook. Generally the cook would suggest the m menu according to what is av;
Both enjoyed the food and win chunk of mutton - sheep meat - Italy's special ice Cream. Th before them. The houses, hot as Venice itself was built on p. and centuries ago.
Venice lay across the waterw afternoon sunlight floating o softness of the air, the mists ar. timeless?" asked Nandini, feel They did doze off for a while the family with a cup of coffe specialty.
"I Wonder whether there is an the world,' asked Nandini.' "Y said Nihal rising stretching his to Bangkok, "Thailand's floati where the Thai sellers bring fruits, vegetables and flowers other traders. This is still a tol now gradually replaced by mc the river and its markets giv life must have been in earlier images of the sellers. In its owr are fascinating.

61
yet wholesome food served with 1 wines in jars.
greeted by the owner himself in the countryside trattorias, tenu since it is always a special ailable.
e that was served with the roast - boiled vegetables and Cassata ley enjoyed the lovely scenery els, were all built on stilts just ilings of sand and silt centuries
rays. It was resplendent in the n the water, together with the ld the blue grey skies. "Isn't this ing thoroughly lazy and sleepy. until they were awakened by e, cappuccino - another Italian
other place quite like Venice in es this is hauntingly beautiful,” Shand to Nandini. "I'll take you ng markets which are beautiful the boats laden with tropical bartering their products with urist venture because these are dern Super markets. However, e a realistic view of how daily days being lively and colourful lway, the Thai floating markets

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“This is “La Serenissima.” Let u seems to float on the water. the light. Look at the fading li; churches to silver giving the bl hue. All these colours seem { mix," said Nihal helping her t
As the gondola glided downth that she was falling in love wit her mouth as the lap of the oa the boat - they were soothing your thoughts," said Nihal. " much more thana penny. Wł with my husband?" she shyly the Palazzo hand in hand. “V gave her peck on the lips.
"There are so many churches tomorrow morning visiting a the feeling of quietness and p I loved sitting in our chapel imbibing the peaceful atmosp
The following day was quiet : to the old church of San Trov, and seeing them he came upt He was a university student c his vacation when he acts as extra money to continue with
The church seemed rather C is old. It Was built in the te Cream coloured stone walls a silhouetted against the sky. Ti

Cultural Memoirs
is enjoy the city of Venice which he water keeps changing with ght streaking the cupolas of the uildings a pink and dusky golden zo blend together in a delicate to get into the gondola.
e Grand Canal, Nandini realized h her husband. A Smile touched rand the water lazily lapped on ... "You are smiling. A penny for Oh no my thoughts are worth ly shouldn't be falling in love asked him as they walked into Why not my love," he said and
and basilicas here. Let's spend church,” Nandini said. "I love eace in a chapel. Back at School not really praying but merely here," she finished.
as they walked down the street aso. A guide had been arranged othern and introduced himself. loing archaeology and this was a tour guide. "I need to collect
my study," he said.
ild and the guide said, “Yes it nth century or so. Look at the und the slender, tall bell tower here are two valuable paintings

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Nihal And Nandini – “La Serenissimo
by the celebrated artist Tinto guiding them inside.
It was dark inside and both sto dim light. They were overwhelm in the chapel and stood silently
“This is the Adoration of Magi said the guide. "It is absolute images and the incredible bru were appreciative of the beaut may not have really understoo his ability to create a work of b
“Tintoretto Was an Italian pain Venice and his paintings are si each was painted" the guide Sa
*Venice is full of Italian culture art gallery . The walls and ceil mosaic and frescoes and each grandeur and beauty," he said. impressed with the young man artworks. They paid him well a of tea which he took apprecia Signor, Signora.”
"I am happy that we had a guid not for him We may have misse have meant anything to us" saic paintings were marvelous and
They walked along the street scenes of Venice. They walked p; to San Trovaso boatyard. “This

63
pretto. Let us go in," he said
od adjusting their eyes to the ned by the serenity and silence 7 for a moment .
- Tintoretto’s naster piece,” lly perfect — the colours, the sh Work." Nandini and Nihal y of this painting though they d it. "This is man's talent and eauty," they thought.
|ter who spent his life time in til in the Churches for which id.
b. Each church or palazzo is an ings are lined with art work, of these is breathtaking in its Both Nihal and Nandini were and the way he presented the und gave him a Smallgift pack utively saying, “Gracie tanto,
e to give us all these details. If d out and Tintoretto may not Nandini. To both of them the were of incomparable beauty.
s swept up in the wonderful astthe Accademia and cameup Sperhaps where the gondolas

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were built. Most of the boats boat building Craft is dying. Til that gives character to the Wa
Nihal stood with his arm r( admiring Venice which lay a evening Sunlight. The city app. mirage. “La Serenissimo,' whi to which Nihal replied in thes trapped between the sea and
Venice was a wonderful chal book. They were completel They shopped in the main sh antiques and Murano glass an had been here for over a Weel soon be over. This holiday them and now they felt compl They were looking forward to Germany to the Ambassador'.

Cultural Memoirs
seem rather old - perhaps the his is sad since it is the gondola terways," they thought.
Dund Nandini and both were Cross the water magical in the eared to float on the Water like a spered Nandinimore to herself ame whisper, "Yes so beautiful sky."
pter out of a medieval history y fascinated by her mystery. opping street for fabrics, shoes, dreturned to the Palazzo. They k and their short holiday would was a healing balm to both of letely relaxed to move onwards. D motoring across the Alps into S residence, their new home.

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പ്ര) ναυαγ()/ހ .
/ll was quiet and still ir temple bell tolled the hour. It
There was a shuffle of feet follo the gate. The old man raised See what was happening. He s, and the other running away fr in Nallur as the temple bell W.
The old man was the care tak of the household. Seeing the t in the verandah he was wond they were standing at the gate running away with the ring of direction. He was concerned these two were, "Why were t long were they there? And wh this in his mind.
 
 

//: (ޕ/'
را بر
the home front as the distant was four in the morning.
owed by quick steps just outside himself from the bunker bed to aw two youngsters one limping om the gate along Chetty Street as heard.
er, the father of the two maids wo figures from hisbunker bed Lering who they were and why and why they hurriedly started the temple bell in the opposite and worried not knowing who hey standing at the gate; how no are they?" he kept churning

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“I must tell Mangalam abot disconcerting and frightening, up his bedding and carried it gets up with the first ring oft the back verandah and has ano up for the day around five thi
That morning was different. He waiting impatiently for one O that he could share the alarm to the master and mistress.
But, what he did not see W youngsters turned back stealt had gone to the back of the hou They quietly slipped in unnot ditch that had been prepared
narrow lane by the house. Th up to Surendran's car that h the garage, question him as
elections despite their warnin range and run away.
Had the old man seen the bo have ended differently. How part of an assassination plot, by the LTTE
With the first ring of the temp and Malini vWere up... “Amma,” cup of coffee straight away." "Amma' as the maids did. She walked briskly to the small bu upstairs and prepared two hic to the sitting room where Sur

Cultural Memoirs
ut this episode; it is a little he thought and started rolling back to the garage. He usually he bell, carries the bedding to ther forty winks before getting rty in the morning.
2 didn't go back to sleep but was f his daughters to come out so ing story and convey the same
ras more allarming! The two hilly knowing that the old man use to have another forty winks. iced and hid themselves in the earlier by two others along the ey were to lay in ambush, Walk e would be bringing out from to why he was contesting the g and shoot him at point blank
ys coming back, the story may was he to know that this was formidable and premeditated
le bell that morning Surendran said Surendran, "I would like a He had a habit of calling Malini slipped into the housecoat and ilt-in pantry cupboard that was it cups of coffee and brought it endran was seated.

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A Senseless Killing
Surendran and Malini were in since their marriage. He was a They built this house on the l doWry. They builtitas tWo uni could stay downstairs and rer
They had no children but hadb and Kanthi who worked as h two girls, looked after them Surendran and Malini. Since t asked the father who was livi over and be the care taker oft
he has been in the household
Surendran was an attorney-at last forty years. He had a goo They were both interested in p to Surendran contesting the ol to serve the people through th
Surendran was contesting th Tamil Congress (TC) party. Th (TULF) had promised "SelfRu to the Liberation Tigers of agitating for the rights of the T
The LTTE was very much op warned the candidates not to c on the wall opposite the hon and one appeared in Chetty st the members of the household
The reading on the wall was v. to go againstit. The notice was

67
their sixties and lived in Nallur lawyer and she was a housewife. and that was given to Malini as ts so that if the need arises, they it the unit upstairs.
rought up two sisters Mangalam ousemaids. They educated the well and in turn they too loved limes were difficult, Malini had ng alone in Paranthan to come he house. For the past few years helping out in various ways.
-law practising in Jaffna for the ld practice and they lived well. olitics and were looking forward incoming elections. His wish was e District Development Council.
e elections as a member of the e Tamil United Liberation Front le' to the youngsters belonging Tamil Eelam (LTTE) who were amils if not for a separate State.
posed to the elections and had ontest. Posters had been posted nes of Some of the contestants reet too and was placed so that would see it as they drove out.
ary clear and it would be foolish threatening and it clearly said,

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68
"If you contest, you will pay f immediately."
Both Malini and Surendran h elections. Malini's brother in C instead invited them to spends be away from Jaffna and go ba
Unlike most Tamil politician advocated a separate state bu Malini and Surendran had mae roots firmly planted there.
The militants were fighting foi in politics whatsoever. They we matters, the TULF had used th capitalize on the situation and for the Tamils if they come in
During those years the relatic Tamils were strained. There wa on the part of the leadership o trust and understanding to be were motivated by a desire to every citizen could live with fear or want.
They understood that the eth youth. The policy of standard to Tamil students in 1971. M university. All these ideas we minds and they wanted to sil the young in particular.

Cultural Memoirs
or it with your life. Withdraw
ad decided not to contest the olombo had warned them and ome time with him in Colombo, ck when times improve.
S and expatriate Tamils who It lived in Colombo or abroad, de Jaffna their home with their
a cause but had no experience are immature and to compound lis as an opportune moment to promised to get a separate state to power!
ons between the Sinhalese and is a need for a change in attitude fboth communities for mutual restored. Surendran and Malini work towards this end so that equality and justice, free from
nic conflict had hurt the Tamil ization had dealt a severe blow any found it difficult to enter are firmly entrenched in their ncerely help their community,

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A Senseless Killing!
However, things had taken a groups coming on the scene. situation, one may not know live as equal citizens had to b achieved by fighting for it! Th the first step towards this an contestants not to Contest. "B to be what they wanted
Surendran and wife heeded t to contest, leave Jaffna for SC come back when things impro Colombo by Yaal Devi that aft
S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S
The old care taker had had a w his daughters to come out so th that was worrying him. They he walked up to her briskly a having seen two boys at ourg four o'clock." Before he could "Appa, who were they and wha she asked rather worried.
"I really do not know. They may but I saw them only as the ter the ring, they ran away and I c. said and added, "Let's tell Mar say. We need to give this infor
The younger girl ran inside to c getting breakfast ready. 'Akk somethingtotellyou,” she sai

69
wrong turn with the militant Whether they understood the but the rights of the Tamils to e obtained and this has to be 2 fight for a separate state was d for this they compelled the oycott the elections," seemed
he LTTE call and decided not me time, go to Colombo and ve. Their plan was to leave for
21 OO1,
ash and was waiting for one of lat he could share the scenario ounger girl came out first and nd said, "I am a little worried ate early this morning around finish the sentence, she said, it were they doing at the gate,"
have been there a while earlier nple bell was ringing. Hearing listinctly saw one limping," he galamandsee Whatshehas to nation to the master."
all her sister who was hurriedly ! Akka! Come here. Father has and ran out towards the well.

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70
Mangalam put away the Worl asking the father what he had
"You know Mangalam, early standing at the gate. I do not do I know what they were wal I think that we should keep Ai episode," he said.
Meanwhile Surendran had fil was about to leave the room "Malini, we need to move car to go to the Kayt's temple bil Nallur temple. Even though it election campaign, today in th long to go there.
"The bags are packed and re. to the station master early so would quietly put them in the best that no one sees us getti heavy luggage!
Both Surendran and Malini we decision not to contest and tha that afternoon itself. They we the two maids with their fathe
Surendran had his bath first, ready to go to the temple. Ma came in saying, "Malini I am car. Hurry, we are getting late out. She had arranged a tray and now needed to pluck som

Cultural Memoirs
( she was doing and came out
to Say.
this morning I saw two boys know why they were there nor nting to do nor who they were. ya and Amma informed of this
lished drinking his coffee and when he turned back and said, efully today. You are planning ut I would prefer to go to the was there that I flagged off my Le present context it may be too
ady and We need to send these that when the train arrives he : train unobtrusively. It may be ng into the Yaal Devi with our
rehappy that they had taken the tthey were leaving for Colombo re closing the unit upstairs and r were going to stay downstairs.
hanged into the verti' and was lini was getting ready when he going to the garage to get the for the puja," and was rushing of fruits the previous evening e flowers for the temple.

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A Senseless Killing!
Surendran had brought out th Wiping the windscreen as Mil While she was plucking flow Conversation between her hus could not see from where she
"We had clearly asked you not ahead with it,” said one voice." voice.
Calling themselves Liberatio LTTE was a formidable militan other independent groups - a essentially working to achieve people. Unfortunately over the itself with the other groups,
and developed into a formida its mandate, its absolute pow gradually lostits militancybec group killing or doing away W.
And the forthcoming elections controversial subject that Sur Posters appeared all over askin saying that if they do so they
Knowing and understanding Surendrans had decided that t With the elections and while contesting. I am going to Colon draw my papers...." One of the
Before she knew what was hap shots being fired and stood ve

71.
e car from the garage and was ni came out to pluck flowers. ters she heard Snatches of a band and two others whom she
WaS.
I to contest. But you are going “We don't like it," said another
in Tigers of Tamil Eelam, the tgroup founded together with tl working for the Tamil cause the lawful rights of the Tamil years the LTTE it disassociated gained supremacy over them ble militant group. Forgetting er corrupted it absolutely and pming unfortunately a terrorist ith any opposition in its wake!
and participating in it was the 2ndran and others had to face. g the candidates not to contest, Would face dire consequences.
this underlying threat, the hey were not going to proceed ne was replying, "No I am not bo this afternoon itself to with m fired the fatal shot.
pening, Malini heard the three ry still for a moment petrified.

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72
She dropped the tray and sta when she saw the two boys ru stood helpless and transfixed that Surendran was bleeding. did not know.
There was absolute silence moment and then without sa tears rolling down her cheeks
Mangalam, Kanthi and the old on hearing the firing.
"What is happening? Where Mangalam looking around Cryi terrible had happened and see “Amma! What happened to Ali
Sizing up the situation she happened and that the father was horrified and upset that to them, the worst had happ “Perhaps we could have aver promptly. They would have just yet," she thought annoye
"Ammal Aiya has fallen. Let . to take her inside.
"Why has Aiya fallen - who s yQuktnovN otne VNas litmnping, Tl gate. I would have seen then the garden?" Malini asked ar.
"Why did they do this. I heard to Colombo explicitly to wit

Cultural Memoirs
rted running towards the car inning away - one limping. She not knowing what to do seeing How long she stood there she
in the garden for an endless ying a word she began to Cry,
man came running from inside
are Aiya and Amma?” asked ng. She realized that something ing Maliniran up to her Crying, ya? He is bleeding profusely.”
realized that the worst had 's story has been enacted. She before the story was conveyed 2ned and Aiya had been killed. ted this death if we had acted peen careful and not gone out d with herself for being show.
LS go in," said Mangalam trying
hot him? Was it the two boys - ley did not come in through the coming. How did they get into d started Crying.
Aiya Saying that we were going hdraw the nomination. Despite

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A Senseless Killing!
this they shot him," Cried M conversations that she overhe
Everything happened so quick batan eyelid, a life was snuffed and an ambulance rushed in th was taken to hospital.
That was all she could remembe arms. She was carried inside someone sprinkled water to re
While Mangalam stood besi commotion in the garden, M know what Was happening. Qu the two boys running down Ch the marketplace brazenly mixi
had been done!
Who the killer was, one knew. knew that this would be the ei
A senseless killing

73
alini trying to remember the ard.
ly that before they could even out! Just then a siren was heard rough the gate and Surendran
tr. She fainted offin Mangalam's and laid on the couch where evive her.
de her mistress, there was a any had collected wanting to lite a few neighbours had seen letty Street. They were seen in ng with the people as if nothing
But more importantly one also nd of the story

Page 79
averi! Kaveri! Kaveri a
came from afar, from the tinn husband's call but chose to ign her home in Chundikuli, Jaffna aroma of mixed spices, gram a
Kaveri was a good Cook and where ever Jegan was workin able to turn out special veget kitchen was her sanctuary anc in it cooking or doing somet or recollecting a preparation have mentioned. She would c sparkling - the kitchen itself v
The family moved into the b Jegan was transferred to the Jaf
16 Tinnai is an open veranda in front. passers by to rest a while before res

'//
Imma! Where are you?” The call ai in front. Kaveri heard her ore it. She was in the kitchen in preparing - Sweet meats. The
ind ghee filled the air.
in her old fashioned kitchens g as Grama Niladhari She was arian fare and delicacies. The t she spent a great deal of time ning perhaps writing a recipe Ihat an elderly neighbour may lean and keep her silverware vas spotlessly clean.
ig house in Chundikuli when fina Kachcheri from Neduntivu.
In olden times the tinnai was meant for suming their journey

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Kaveri's Kitchen
She inherited from her granc house which had to be refurbis kitchen and she got the heart and rearranged the fire place look unusual and good.
To Kaveri, preparing food was Deepavali was special for seve just gothis promotion to the po Agent and was transferred to t And equally important was tha Parami and husband were Coi abroad for their "Thalai" Dee their marriage. Kaveri was also their last post and come to tow arrange a marriage for the Sec
Kaveri's household was also Sumptuous meal ready alwa whipping up something whol drop by unannounced.
Her fare is vegetarian. She w dishes, bowls, plates and tur thalil heaped with rice, bowls ( preparations, yoghurt, chutne marvellous blend of vegetable is enhanced with philosophy in calls for a delicious meal.
Whatever she cooks she first c and it is only after prayers that explains clearly saying, "It is ol
17 A stainless steel plate

75
diparents this old ramshackle shed. Kaveri's priority was the 1 and the chimney cleaned up with a stone facade making it
an all important art and this ral reasons. Her husband had sition of Assistant Government he Jaffna Kachcheri from Delft. ttheir elder married daughter ming doWn to Sri Lanka from pavali the first deepavali after happy to move out from Delft, in where they would be able to ond daughter Pulvani.
special. One would find a hot ys. She had the capacity of esome for a guest who might
ould have her stainless Steel nblers sparkling silver - the fdelicious vegetables and dhal ys, pappadams, Vadagams — a s, lentils and rice. Her cooking keeping with the occasion that
ffers it to the household deity it is partaken by the family. She nly then that the food acquires

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the properties of a Prasad-ag quality with blessings of the I in the Shrine room each nor
Born and bred in the island ol the eldest child in a family of boys. Delft was her un-spoilti its people.
Situated in the Palk Straits t beauty and its ponies (a Pori formations, Scorching hot su rather backward area which outside world made aware of it Scenic beauty. The landmark. were the 'growingstone, the h cote where messenger pigeon messages during the time the communication.
As a student she spent her Duraiswany Madhya Maha V grandparents. Unfortunately the cut-off marks to enter ur continue her studies and sit arranged a marriage for here useless good for nothing chap and said that he would carryh had sinister overtones for a movements "Iyakkam" fighti had arisen. It was also bruite consisted essentially of yout intention was to break up sc families of higher classes.

Cultural Memoirs
ift from the Lord enhancing the Divine," as she lays the offering 1ing.
f Delft – Neduntivu, Kaveri Was three children, a girl and two sland with a unique life style of
he island is famed for its wild tuguese legacy), unusual Coral alight and wild winds. It was a needed to be improved and the Srich historical significance and S that Kaveri would remember huge Baobab tree and the pigeon s had been trained to leave their y had been used as the mode of
school years in Velanai at Sir idyalayam. She lived with her for her, she failed to score above liversity. Instead of letting her the exam again, her parents specially because of Nathan - a who was infatuated with Kaveri er away! This episode of Nathan at that time, youth liberation ng for the rights of the Tamils, }d that since these movements h from the lower classes their ciety especially the well-to-do

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Kaveri's Kitchen
Young boys and girls were were trained to be combatant the younger son to the moven ready to lose Kaveri.
And Kaveri's marriage was ar. Servant who was working in t the Jaffna kachcheri. Parents their daughters to young mer proverbial adage being, “Whe with the government!" meani government servant. Such a by the people perhaps because the couple's later life!
Though Kaveri had seen a phot the first time in the manavarai slightly short and dark and Ka
Kaveri was hurt that her parer “Did amma forget that a girl I to marry someone that she ap the young eccentric Nathan,"
"Could she have?" was the parents were not too sure abc irreparable.
Kaveri's disappointment grad years. Jegan was a very kind
kind and considerate ways tha attitude. He made up for the sl good to her, encouraging her out whenever possible. And as in various ways making her cl

77
ured into the movement and S. The family had already lost lent and the parents were not
anged to Jegan, a government he grama Sevaka's division in were interested in marrying l in government Service - the in the cock crows, it should be ng that the groom should be a marriage was highly regarded : it carries with it a pension for
ograph of Jegan she met him for , the bridal chamber. He looked veri Was bitterly disappointed.
its could have done this to her. nas aspirations and would like proves! I could have dealt with she thought.
question that arose and the ut the outcome which may be
ually mellowed down over the person and it was through his the helped Kaveri change her tort comings by being kind and where ever possible, taking her the babies came he helped her Lores less difficult.

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They had two daughters - the three years younger, Puvani. B. parents and travelled with th Jegan moved to different areas in the fifth grade the children College in Jaffna. Parami comp a study in Accountancy whiley entered Kopay Training Colle Teacher fulfilling her wish to Now I need to do a Bachelor my studies", Puvanithought a at the University.
Kaveri was happy that the tw studies and were pursuing C husband were coming home f. month's time. She was thinkir and feeling happy about it wh again, "Kaveri! Kaveri! come a
And at that moment, the Wor through her head like a bolt knew it as becoming a reality. up a picture of a modern kitch Serving people as Jegan kept Come," she kept ignoring the
"Yes! Why not start my kitc. Kaveri's Kitchen? I like the S Kitchen she said aloud.
"Everyone says that I am a g dinners are special! So why no “Kaveri's Kitchen.' I will teach

Cultural Memoirs
alder girl Parami and the other oth the girls grew up with their em in the northern district as on work. But when Parami was were brought to Hindu Ladies leted her A Levels and pursued oung Puvani after her A Levels ge and qualified as a Trained be a teacher. "This is done. pf Science degree to complete nd pursued an external course
o girls had done well in their areers. And now Parami and or the Thalai Deepavali in two ng of herself as a grandmother en she heard Jagan calling her uickly; the astrologer is here."
"ds "Kaveri's Kitchen” flashed of lightning striking and she She got very excited conjuring en where she was cooking and I calling her, "Kaveri! Kaveri! call and continued to think.
hen, my restaurant Calling it ound of the words - 'Kaveri's
pod cook and my lunches and t market my culinary talent in my people a good vegetarian

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Kaveri's Kitchen
food could also be delicious would be an incredible vegeta
"The Vegetarian food that I gi I will modernize, prepare in a healthy fare -fried, stewed, ba thought excitedly as more idea "I'll have a Selection of rice - lernon - all these will be avail difference of favours.' Her n said aloud, "It shall be Kaveri
And through al this came Jeg louder – "Kaveri Come. The as
Wiping her hands in the kitche Puvani had made for her, she tidying herself, Smoothening
"O Shastriyaareil You have C See him. "Yes Kaveril You are to flirt with her.
Jegan Was annoyed and Sna Shastriyaare I am here; you irritated with the astrologer.
The astrologer had a soft Cor. would have liked to marry her he kept looking at her irritati
"Now Shastriyaare tell me a brought for Iny younger dat bringing the astrologer back
18 An astrologer

79
ind out of the ordinary - this rian experience for all.
te will be the demand of Jaffna. variety of ways and serve the ked, stirfriedor steamed," she skept flashing across her mind. - red, yellow, ghee, tamarind, able and more with a touch of ind was racing and finally she s Kitchei."
ins calisti -gain Now a little trologer is here."
n cloth and removing the apron hurried to the front verandah er hair and adjusting the Saree.
one," she exclaimed happy to looking well," he replied trying
oped back saying, "Look here speak to me." He was rather
դer for Kaveri in his heart and lad she been free Unconsciously ng her husband a little more.
bout the proposals you have ghter," he said rather loudly o his work

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The astrologer walked back to lap top and started scrolling t this Kaveri said excitedly, ”A works on his laptop Look! F You remember for our elder in a sheaf of papers. Now he computer,” said Kaveri enjoyin the astrologer's overtures
"You did say that you want if in Sri Lanka. I have brought a match fairly well in varying de
"Here you are! This is Krish presently working at Chariot . entire business. The horoscop Sri Lanka and not go away see are old and he needs to be n
both also," he added.
Kaveri's eyes brightened follo "Yes! who is he? From where
doing in ... What ... What is til numbled a little annoyed with of Chariot. The word did ring excitement she seemed to hav It was there in her mind but you say - where does he work that the word was so elusive.
19 A wife often refers or speaks to he
him and similarly Amma
20 A bridegroom

Cultural Memoirs
the table, sat down, opened his the screen downwards. Seeing uppa look! The Shaastriyaar He is operating it efficiently. daughter, his proposals were has entered the details in his gher husband's irritations and
possible a maapillai' working few proposals and the charts 2 greeS.
na Mahendran's chart. He is as the Manager overseeing the es agree and he wishes to be in king new pastures. His parents bar them. This would suit you
Wed by a barrage of questions. does he come? And what is he 1e name of this outfit.... " she herself for forgetting the name
a bell in her mind but in her e forgotten it for the moment. wouldn't come out. "What did ? She repeated a little agitated
r husband as Appa- as the children call

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Kaveri's Kitchen
"Yes Kaveri I did say Chariot," her keenly. "You seem a little he asked taken aback at Kaveri wondering what it was all abo
"Yes. Yes, Chariot," she said an Isn't it?' she finished.
“It is a food outlet where a vari lunches and dinners are sold. Why Kaveri you seem to be su proposal or is it in Chariot? Do asked getting up and going ne
Sensing that Kaveri may blurt the importance that the girl m more annoyed and he put a changing the story. A quick th He was wondering whether discussed something earlier w
He was annoyed but withouts "Shaastriyaare! What about t have brought a few. Let's look
The astrologer was broughtba through he said, "This is also and tall Working at the Natio doing well and you may consi is interested in a house in Colo a house as dowry? His chart is do well in life," he finished.
“From where is he?” asked Jeg

81
the astrologer said looking at : excited. What is happening," 's persisting questions and was ut.
d continued, "It is a restaurant.
ety of food, short eats, pastries, Take a-ways are also available. tddenly very interested in this you know the young man?' he ar her.
out her ideas of marriage and eets the boy, Jegan was getting stop to this conversation by ought flashed across his mind. (averi and the astrologer had 'ithout his knowledge
nowing any irritation he asked, he other charts. You said you
at those."
ck to the computer and looking a Mahendran. He is handsome nal Insurance Company. He is der him for your daughter. He mbo. Would you be able to give promising and he is bound to
gali),

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82
"He comes from V.V.T. He dr. doing well already," said the not to Jegan's liking. That Wa militant groups were closely a
area.S.
Kaveri was still in her drean ideal and it filled into the ide indeed a God send," she thou drink for the astrologer. Wit bringing a tray of tumblers a coconut water with a dash o and served the astrologer an
"As usual this is delicious," mouth with his shawl. "Which he asked as Kaveri turned to talk and wanted a few mome the proposals more thorough
The idea of the Insurance Mah very tactfully and cleverly m the Chariot Mahendran. All de his education, his job were C into again. The charts match Veranadah Kaveri quietly w like this.'
Jegan quietly drew aside t Shastriyaarel We Will come b us time to think about the p them and get her views. We v is hers. You know, the pres young men and speak to the

Cultural Memoirs
ives his own car to office and is astrologer. The word V.V.T. was is also a difficult area and these Lssociated with its neighbouring
1 World. The first proposal was as of Kaveri's Kitchen. “This is light and went inside to bring a hin a few minutes she returned nd a jug of a concoction of king f Sugar and a squeeze of lemon di Jegan.
said the astrologer wiping his 1 of these grooms do you want?" go inside. She was too excited to ints to herself before discussing
lly.
lendran seemed good but Kaveri anoeuvered the conversation to 'tails, his background, his family, liscussed and the charts looked led well and before leaving the lispered to Jegan, "Yes Appa, I
he astrologer and said, "Yes ack to you in a day or two. Give roposals, speak to Puvani about ould guide her but the decision ent day girls want to meet the m before deciding," he said and

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Kaveri's Kitchen
walked up to the gate with the scooter near the gate.
These proposals were broug daughter. She was the younge concerned with the family's w Appa's and Amma" s.
Despite the traditions in Jaffna closely with their fathers, Puva father. In traditional Jaffna, th a meal. The father would be se and retires to smoke the prove the rest of the family sit for the and the mother would sit with in the meal.
In Jegan's and Kaveri's home Puvani from her very young ag together during meal times. together and have dinner," sh conversations - politics or the The family would sit together home, have food together, dis that is topical, and together he up after the meal. The girls v study, home work etc.
These hours of togetherness her shell, know and understan more. She also started speaki children did 'appa."
21 Earlier as her mother ard grandm the typical yet respectful expressic But now it was "appa'

83
astrologer who had parked his
ht for Puvani, their second r of the two children and very ell being — especially those of
where daughters did not move |ni had endeared herself to the e family never sat together for rved first and after he finishes bial churuttu the Jaffna cigar, } meal. The children are served them, serving and then joining
the tradition was different. e, would draw the whole family Saying, "Appa come. Let's sit e would draw her parents into social Scene, festivities or fasts. at neal times when all are at cuss anything and everything lp the mother to tidy and wash Tould retire after this to their
nabled Kaveri tO Come Out Of her husband and the children ng to and calling Jegan as the
ther called, she would say "ingerungo" in "here" where no name is mentioned.

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Kaveri unlike the usual Jaffna ambitions of doing somethi opportunities to do somethi However, she was denied the rushed into marriage at a you household chores and with another.
She had her own ideas of equali should be given equal opportu would like.
"Equality, Amma - what do yo Puvani one day.
" Equal," she said and after am not interested in being equalit equal to Appa. However, just as to pursue what he wanted to d I should have the opportuniti something beyond my home where I use the know-how I gi talents and carve out a niche fo and family are important. Hov always. I need my freedom," we with her family.
Both father and daughter w Kaveri's thoughts. However, t! aiming at. She herself perhap wanted at that time. These thi
Long after the astrologer ha Kaveri was still in an exuberar “Kaveri's Kitchen' had come i

Cultural Memoirs
woman of that time had her ng creative. She needed the ng that she would want to. ese opportunities as she was ng age and was burdened with Ihe babies coming one after
ty. She would say that a woman nities to do something that she
u want in this equality," asked
onnent continued, “Oh no! I atin Io a man; for example in being s Appa was given opportunities o, I too have my ambitions and es to pursue them. In my case and family - a creative career ain together with my inherent r myself in this world. Marriage ever, I shouldn't be tied down reher thoughts that she shared
are thoroughly impressed by ley did not know what she was s did not quite know what she ughts were deep within her.
i gone, and dinner was over, t mood - a dream world where nto being Puvani sensed that

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Kaveri's Kitchen
her mother was mentally excite "Ammal Something is excitinglyc us," she asked a little intrigued
And Kaveri burst out without ap of you say that I am a good Cook are special Help me to market r Kitchen.' Through my cooking
good vegetarian food could als ordinary, Wouldn't it be an incr for all," she blurted out ending
me to do what I want to do. I am t Let me use my talents and be cre expertise that I have. As a won to achieve my aspirations," she down her cheek.
“O Amma! This is wonderful. Bo you. We need to work out the lo Won't we Appa?" Puvani said g
"Of Course I am there," said Jeg hugged both mother and daug and shy person like him who especially in the presence of h unusual.
Jegan continued with a rush of all know that Amma has a Cu creativity as she would interpre the delight of her family and fr her good cooking," said Jegan i
And he finally asked before leav For whom are you planning to

85
d and busy with her thoughts. bu. Why don't you share it with by her mother's behaviour.
reamble in all excitement. "All and my lunches and dinners ny culinary talent in Kaveri's I could teach my people that O be delicious and out of the 'edible vegetarian experience with a prayer - "O Lord, help tired of just being a housewife. lative and market my Culinary an give me the opportunities
said softly with tears rolling
th. Appa and I will be there for gistics but Surely we will help. jetting up to hug the mother.
an and in an unusual gesture nter together. For a reserved does not show his emotions is daughter, this was indeed
enthusiasm saying, "Yes. We linary flair with an inspired st traditional Jaffna cuisine to iends. We do enjoy and value in a flush of excitement.
ing the dining room, "Kaveril cater ? What would be your

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fare? Think carefully whethel you are capable of organizing whether it is Worth the effo spending on it?
"Once you are sure that this it, keep thinking about it ofte realistic in your mind and kn Both Puvani and I will be there that he had made the day for
This piece of advice was very p into reality making Kaveri's K
Jegan realized that Kaveri W. different things - innocent, intelligent and a good cook ability to have a meal ready odd way he realized that this p she would make a good entre a great deal of thinking, plan
"Let us start Small. For exam restaurant, we may have an the form of lunch or dinner
Or perhaps we could have a for just the week-end only - when we could expect the ter a vegetarian meal and on Sat also getting excited over the
Nothing damped Kaveri's ide her husband was with herint known how a restaurant shou it should be different to the ol

Cultural Memoirs
you really want this; whether it and working it successfully; it and money that you will be
will work and that you can do 1 and internalize it and make it ow what you really want to do. for you," he said little realizing Kaveri.
ositive and his ideas Crystallized itchen a possibility.
as an interesting mix of many air, good looking, simple, shy, with a knack for cooking. Her at short notice was great. In an roposition was possible and that preneur. However, this needed ning and investing.
ple instead of trying to start a outlet to sell Jaffna cuisine in packets from Kaveri's Kitchen. in outfit, as "Kaveri's Kitchen" beginning with Friday dinner nple going devotees to come for urday and Sunday," he thought whole idea.
as especially now that she knew his endeavour. She may not have ld be yet, she was particular that dinary boutique catering for all

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Kaveri's Kitchen
and Sundry. She was caught up said, "No! Mine would not be a be unique and I would draw a C
And in her simplicity she starte way. She remembered readir beautiful, and decided that the
"I will recreate the Jaffna culi of our dishes. We could cater families Would conne in On a F after going to the temple. The Deepavali seasons will Creep ir festive preparations together of the Jaffna fruits in season na mango, papaya, bananas, jak health conscious.
As the excitement subsided and for Parami and husband were O Kaveri's Kitchen in various ang. family should help Kaveri to f. the outfit.
Preparation for the launchbeg Kaveri decided how and wher. made. It was essentially heride and what she wanted. He woul
Since they had decided that weekend outfit Kaveri felt that adjacent to the original Outho this restaurant. This would bee
22 A tea kiosk for all and sundry

87
in her web of thoughts as she “thethanni kade.”22 It Would hic elite clientele
d planning to begin in a small (g somewhere that 'small is se Would be her Watch Words.
Inary art and serve the finest for family gatherings where riday Seeking vegetarian fare warmth of Pongal, New Year, 1 and we could be ready with with a fruit platter with slices mely the Karuththa Kolumban these would be there for the
the Thalai Deepavali festivities ver,Jegan looked attheidea of les and finally decided that the ulfill her wishes and organize
un. Methodically he planned as : the arrangements should be a and she had to decide where dhelp when needed only.
it would initially be only a the side verandah and rooms Se kitchen Ould be ideal for xclusive and she would have to

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reorganize the kitchen and til the rooms and verandah into
Mother and daughters spent a folder giving details of Kas would be available. "On the C. of Amma's newly refurbished
"Kaveri has a Culinary fla as she interprets tradit delight of the family an meal,'
said Parami using the father capabilities.
All agreed to the idea that cluttered and in the inner ty more to Say
Kaveri's cuisine is truly hot, tangy and freshly grc prepared masala flavouri garlic rather than being
Kaveri's Kitchen Will g traditional rural Jaffna fa dinner or breakfast Wou flavours according to an food with fresh herbs a "Aduppu' retaining the truly an epicurean idyll.
23 A thick gravy 24 Fireplace

Cultural Memoirs
he hearth in this area, refurbish
the dining areas.
a great deal of time organizing
veri's Kitchen and the fare that over page letus have the picture
hearth with the words,
ir with an inspired creativity ional Jaffna Cuisine to the di friends who enjoy a good
's initial comments on Kaveri's
the cover page should not be vo pages of the folder, they had
distinctive with a blend of und"Kootu” with specially ng pepper, ginger, Cumin and
hilli hot.
ive a genuine taste of the Lre. The food Whether l'unch, ld epitomize the indigenous cestral recipes - vegetarian nd spices all cooked in the : traditional taste becoming

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Kaveri's Kitchen
And as the guests wait fo chilled home– made nelli ( yoghurt shake - moar or ra
The luncheon spread co tempered in ghee with on and black pepper, Curry lea spicy gravy, different varie murunga With Cadju or pota chutneys.
The dosaithaali would be th
Kaveri's Kitchen offers do method is increasingly pc and does not add fat to t dosai delights with an arra be available for Friday din served with sambar and ch comes with mildly flavoure with tomato chutney will bite.
For dinners the Kitchen W Jaffnahoppers, iddlies, stew with an array of gravies, p.
Sunday breakfast would variety ofpongals“ – ven pc pongal each accompanied b onion or chillie.
25 Milk rice

their order, a choice of r mango juices or chilled Sam Will be available.
imprises red rice, dhal ion, ground garlic, Cumin Ves or dhal dumplings in a ties of gourds and spinach, toes and Jaffna pickles and
edish at the Friday dinner.
sai from the Stone – this pular unlike deep frying the food. These delicious y of side trimmings would ner. Ulundhu dosai Will be utney. Masala dosai which d potato filling and served lend well with a hot dosai
ould also serve authentic 's, string hoppers and puttu
chchadies and curries.
pe a banquet including a Ingal, plain pongal or Sweet y chutneys - malli, coconut,
89

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Kaveri's Chutneys are spe wonderful combination of Culinary experience.
“And on the back cover We'
PuVani –
“Whatever we do, it will always The uniqueness of this cuisine is moderation. The main ingredien in vegetarian cooking is to br accompanying them reitaining
And Kaveri says, “I will reci and serve the finest of our di gatherings. The warmth of our Year, Deepavali seasons will c, with festive preparations."
The folder was ready and wou for the guests together with th the inaugural evening -
The vegetarian Odiyal Kool consists of a broth made W. and rice together with a
flour.
Lemon rice along with b potato, ash plantain, ladie - all mouth watering delic
The “ʻpaal appamsʼ – mil served hot directly from chutneys and pachchadie

Cultural Memoirs
'cial and would present a class and delicacy’ into her
|l have Amma's Words, " said
be the Jaffna vegetarian cuisine. that it uses herbs and spices in Its are in portant and the beauty ing these to the fore, flavovars
a hint in the background.
reate the Jaffna culinary art shes. We will cater for family festivals, 11amely Pongal, New reep in and we would be ready
uld be neatly laid at each table he menu, exotic and special for
, the signature Jaffna Soup. This ith a combination of vegetables Selection of spices and Odiyal
owls of vegetables - brinzal, s finger and a variety of salads acies and spiced yoghurt.
k hoppers and masala dosais the hearth with an array of
5.

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Kaveri's Kitchen
And finally delicately panniyarams, sesame ball and pongal.
And “Kaveri's Kitchen" was ceremony.”
The family, Jegan and Kaveri, P and her fiancé Krishna were g
The District Secretary and Go his wife were the Chief Guests arriving at 6.30 p.m. Paramil nagaswaram music to be play music she had chosen was ty delicate and soothing to the
authentic dining experience speeches - the speech of the C you speech. Puvani had arraf be lit by the Chief Guest and family members.
Kaveri was thoroughly excited place. She moved from one CC and sat down by the window dining area that they had ma never looked more beautiful t
By 6.20 p.m. all the guests W places. Jegan had mentioned Guest would come as invited c a minute later
26. The Chief Priest of the Nallur Ten special 'shanti puja' was done, the Kitchen

91.
displayed Sweets - laddu, s, creamy rasavalli, payasam
now ready for the opening
arami and husband and Puvani etting ready.
Vernment Agent of Jaffna and for the evening and would be lad organized soft traditional red through the evening. The pical of Jaffna - distinctive, ears setting the tone for the . There were to be only two hief Guest and Kaveri's thank aged the Kuththu Villakku to his wife, other dignitaries and
. She was unable to sit in one rner of the room to the other She thought that this entire de ready for the Kitchen had nan it did this evening.
ere seated in their respective to the family that the Chief in the dot at 6.30 p.m. and not
tiple had come earlier in the day and a place blessed and made ready for the

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The flavours and the aromas seem to promise a wonderful
It was getting dark and a sl leaves of the Neem tree. A di the arrival of the Chief Guest about to be launched.

Cultural Memoirs
the settings and the music all experience.
ght wind rustled through the stant clap of thunder heralded as Kaveri's dream Kitchen was

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ཏུ་ / 6. کہ
Ventual retre at i S
Tiruvannaamalai 27 where Hinc land of temples and ancient c part of a living sacred landsca my karmic dreams.
A walk through Tiruvannam through a labyrinth of dusty la the sacred pathway, Girivalam The sacred ambience and the the red mountain Arunachala
27 An ancient city in South India
28 a)Legend has a fascinating story abo Light to settle the dispute between greater of the two - the one who the beginning or the end of this colu be the greater of the two.” Both sou The Lord appeared through the eff am here in the Lingam, Inguttren : them illumination and is said to has
b) In the month of Kartigai(November

VŽ, (/ @//
a journey through ancient luism grew and flowered. This entres of myth and religion is pe which comes back to me as
Lalai temple streets took me anes and finally brought me to the road around the mountain. sanctity of the environs with as the backdrop, seemed to
ut Lord Shiva appearing as a column of Vishnu and Brahma as to who was the breserves or the one who creates. "Seek inn - who ever could find the one would ght with pride and arrogance and failed. ulgence as the Shiva Lingam saying, " 'I andru Lingaththe thondrinan," granting fe remained as the Hill of Arunachala -December) during the Kartigai Deepam,

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beckon me. As I gazed at the ru its red and brown boulders str the blue sky, I felt enthralled.
The tall gate towers - the gop sacred areas and, like the Cath been built to be visible from : upward thrust of the Super stru quest for the Infinite. The tem to the sky with the towers poi these open areas become less Sanctum of Arunachala.
The puja, at the temple wa Divine and me, lit by lamps, mantras, offering of flowers, i accompanied by Nagaswarar These heightened my senses dark mystic world of Arunach
Like all ancient cities, Tiruvar Arunachala appears different me it was just wonderful beir of the temple.
just as the waters rise up frc and fall as rain and go back rising up from Thee will natu it turns in many eddies on the
the mountain top becomes a blaze flame is fed by large amounts of g hundreds of thousands of devotee temple and at the mountain 29 Showing of lighted camphor at the

Cultural Memoirs
gged grandeur of the peak with ewn here and there rising into
urams of the temple mark the nedral spires in the west, have afar across the landscape. The icture represents the individual uple is set in quadrangles open inting upwards. As I go inward 5 and less finally reaching the
s an encounter between the ringing of bells, chanting of ncense and finally aarati' - all n music, drums and cymbals. and drew me inwards into the ala.
namalai with its red mountain to different devotees. And to ng here in the sacred precincts
m the sea as clouds, condense o the sea as streams, the Soul rally join Thee again, although : Way."
of fire which burns for several days. The hee and camphor in a frenzy of piety by s who worship in Arunachala both at the
end of a puja

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Tiruvannaamalai - The Spiritual Retreat
"And when the Soul fin back to its sourc It will sink and be mer O Arunachala, T
are words that kept ringing in into the ashran in Tiruvann to fulfill this ideal of merging perhaps not in many more lives such spiritual carnps will certa steps towards the goal.
The ashram is picturesquely sacredhill. Originally it was sec spot for those who wished to S though several buildings have of devotees thronging the pla
vibrating with the beats of sc
abhishekams' are performer observe total silence in the me
A Death experience is fascin reading thus -
"So I am the spirit transcendi the spirit that transcends it, C
This was the all-awakeni Venkataraman is Said to hav consumed him.
30 In Hinduism there is only one Go.
and forms. Tio Rarnana, it was Arun 31 A devotee who takes time off for sk 32 Anointing the presiding deity with

95
ds the Way
C,
ged in Thee° hou Ocean of Bliss,”
my ears as a sadhaka walked aamalai. We may not be able
in the Lord in this life itself; . However, one day we will and ainly help us to take our early
placed on a lower spur of the luded and apart, being a fitting it silently and meditate. Today come up with several hundreds ce, the ashrain is still Sacred, ngs and chants of mantras as d in the temple while others editation ha.
atingly inscribed on the wall
ng the body. The body dies but annot be touched by death."
ng experience that young e had as the death psychosis
with different manifestations - names achala iritual study milk, honey, curd, ghee, holy ash

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"Now death has come! What is Am I dead?” was the million di important to him.
"My body will be reduced to ash will join the restless and deathle Remember this always, O mind
“Who is Venkataraman?' I ne reading the inscription. And fascinated! You bet I was as young Venkataraman was to b — the celebrated Ramana Maha Staying.
And in my fascination I kept o
"The body is silent and inert, but and even the voice of the 'I' wit deathless spirit. 'I' was somethin about my present State and all the my body was centred on that "I.' 'Self focused attention on itselft fear of death vanished."
This was the wonderful experi ever widening thought and me in the inscription;
“Like the fundamentalsrutio* tha other notes of music, this wo in me and I realized that even in talking, reading or doing so remained as a basic drone unc
33 The underlying base drone in musi

Cultural Memoirs
the meaning? This body dies. ollar question that became all
esas I am cremated;mybreath ssair;but not"I' normy "mind" l," he seemed to tell us!
ver knew until I finished re
wasn't I surprised Wasn't I read more and realized that ecome the Sage of Arunachala rishi in whose ashram we were
n reading -
I feel the force of my personality hin me. Apart from it, I am the g very real - the only real thing Conscious activity connected with From that moment onwards, 'I' or ly a powerful fascination and the
ence leading Venkataraman to ditation. In conclusion he says
tunderlies and blends with all inderful experience continued though my body was engaged mething, the basic Sruti'I' still erlying everything!"

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Tiruvannaamalai - The Spiritual Retreat
The revelation that 'I' am thes firmly established in young V become the great Ramana Maha he was barely seventeen years death experience drew him t though he is no more, all of u. ashram, in the gardens, in thes hall and even in the dining hal
To him Lord Arunachala was a he says -
"O Arunachalal In Thee the pi has its stay; and
this is the
Thou art the inner Self, who
Heart i S TI
In the Arunachala. Pancharatne as "Heart is Thy name, O Lord.
Gleaning through some of his a spiritual experience for me expressing the great teaching beauty of Bhagavan Ramana’s v being very human and natural
He explains very succinctly the it in four Words — deham, naha
the body is deham; I am “Who am I?' koham; "I

97
pirit and not the body became enkataraman leading him to rishi of Tiruvannamalai. When old this spiritually awakening o the Arunachala Hill. Even s did feel his presence in the hrine room, in the meditation ls.
ull important. In one instance
cture of the universe is formed, is dissolved -
2 sublime Truth.
dancest in the Heart as "I..." hy name O Lord.” (Verse 2) he speaks of the Lord
profound teachings was itself . One is incapable of clearly S and captivating power and words. He speaks of divinity as
whole of Vedanta compressing m, koham, Soham
not (the body) is naham; then, am that' Soham;

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If the body is not “I” then "W one is the omnipresent God. A "That I am", Sohan.
As Hindus over the years from hearing and chanting these be Soul which is none other that
S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S SS SS SS
The Chinmaya Retreat
The ashram together with it for our spiritual retreat. The idyllic since it was dry and r year; yet it was hallowed by th Maharishi himself.
Presenting each participant W and a knap sack, painted wit worn on the backs, the Achary The dress and the knap sac where with-all to participate and Walkpeacefully and unen of the holy mountain hermit
The word, "Retreat," conju silent surroundings — a plac and moves away from the n
conducive to satisfying the et body.
A smallish courtyard within with a backdrop of the Aruna
34. The teacher

Cultural Memoirs
ho an I', in the heart of such a runachala which shines as "I'-
childhood to adulthood we keep
autiful mantras in praise of the 1 the Lord Himself- "Sohan."
S Sacred precincts was chosen setting may not have been truly ather dusty at that time of the ne presence of the great Ramana
rith the orange garb ofa sadhaka h the words, "Who am I," to be a flagged off the spiritual camp. k gave each one the necessary in the spiritual camp with piety Cumbered through the precincts age - the venue of the camp.
res up visions of Serene and 2 where one withdraws oneself undane to the sacred - a place ernal Soul rather than the finite
the premises of the ashram and chala Hill, served as an open air

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Tiruvannaamalai - The Spiritual Retreat
classroom - becoming a tempor for all. The sadhakas sat on jam setting was truly natural with dogs, cats, peacocks roaming a
The surroundings at the ashra greatly to move away from th the sacred. The board and lodg comfortable! The Swamiji chose arranged different venues at P. and having a class at Skandap to where Shri Ramana sat in r finally going round the hill, ( the concluding class at the Dak different'stations' helped us to all the tensions that we may har of time.
The sacred text, the "Upadesa Maharishi himself was the Sul is the Sun total of the teachi Upanishads condensed into thi yetlucid Tamil. Studying this te the different 'stations' hallowe was a wonderful experience.
We had to be up before five thi brief respite for morning coffee beginning with the chanting C three times followed by the ch This had a spiritual resonance silence as we sat quietly for th
Training School for A
Carpets/rugs Wholesome vegetarian food

99
ary Sandeepany Sadhanalayao akaalams on the ground. The
monkeys, deer, cows, goats, bout freely.
m and its precincts helped us e mundane and transcend to ing were simple, sattvik” and : this with great care and also alakottu climbing a mountain uram up the hill, going down neditation at Virupaksha and Siriprakdakshina and having shinamoorthy Temple. All the unwind and heal unhampered, ve collected over along period
Jindhiyar,” Written by Ramana bject of study - a text which ngs of our ancient Vedas and rty three line verses in chaste xt whether in the ashram or at d by the Maharishi's presence
rty in the morning and after a : the participants were at class f the mantra “OM” in unison anting of the shanti mantras. to it, plunging us into greater 2 class to begin.
charyas

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The Acharya took us back int. story that led towards the Wr
The rishis of the Taraka forest and rites becoming conceitec and power. They felt that moksha that is salvation co convince them that such ritua but not moksha, the peace of the ensuing altercation, Lord S it is not by action but by renu actions that one can aspire fo
Ramana Maharishi begins his in the first verse itself, ’ “Kan however for it to be benefi “Kanımampayantaral kartha does not give moksha - "Vee are performed with arroganc instead when these actions surrendering all actions at th This shows the way to the go
In developing this thought and and beneficial, he explains th the path of puja, japam and d practice of each, one could n all forms and worship Him ( and meditate on Him (dyana
38 கன்மம் ஜடம் 39 கன்மம் பயன் தரல் கர்த்தன 40 வடு தருதல் இல்லை 41 கதிவழி காண்பிக்கும்

Cultural Memoirs
ime to explain the introductory iting of the Upadesa Undhyar -
is had performed several rituals d on acquiring untold strength through these performances, uld be had. Lord Siva had to als and rites can produce power liberation which is beyond. In Siva clearly explains to them that inciation of the fruits of selfless r moksha.
celebrated composition saying mam jadam,”** action is lifeless; cial, it is through His grace - ana aanaiyaale,' and says, it dutharutal ilai.” When actions e, Vasanas (desires) are Created; are performed in the spirit of e Lord, Vasanas are not created. al, “kathivali kaanpikkum.”*
making ones actions meaningful e steps one should take namely, hyana and through sadhana the nove forward. "Seek the Lord in puja), repeat His name (japam) m) making Him the 'I' within."
2ஆனையாலே

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Tiruvannaamalai - The Spiritual Retreat
In doing these sadhana the W. disappear; and it is important r
Puja, japam and dhyana are th enchantment to our actions, in thereby free us from bondage.
To gain true happiness which is seek the path of knowledge and the all important question. In t the body, mind, intellect (BMI) other thoughts in the mind mu through pranayama'.
The mind like a caged bird w Valiyuladdakka, valaipadu putp And the Self "I" remains. "I' is Self. I am sat chit ananda, “pari
At the end of each morning sessi only fruits. This was followed b and later discussions in study discussions gave us the opportu ideas deeply and digest them sl
The finale to the spiritual re circumambulating the hill. The at four in the morning even bei visible. Worshipping at each of Indira Lingam on the East, Ag! Yama Lingam on the South, N West, Varuna Lingam on the We
Breath control
is perfection

101
ong thoughts will gradually tot to revive them!
e stepping stones which lend nake them selfless, pure and
indeed one's nature, one must enquire "Who am I," which is nis, I must know that I am not While searching for the “II” all st disappear being controlled
ill naturally get controlled." ol (like a bird) ulamodungum.” That and this is God, the pure poornam"°.
on was breakfast consisting of y contemplation and Sadhana groups. These sadhanas and inity to initially reflect on the owly and internalize them.
treat was Giripradakshina, Sadhakas were ready to start ore the streaks of dawn were the eight stations, namely – ni Lingam on the South East, irudhi Lingam on the South st, Vayoo Lingam on the North

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West, Kubeara Lingam on the the North East, we were able effortlessly singing and chant
The ArunachaleswararTempli of our retreat as we moved thi destinations. The Temple is South India. With the hill as it complex gives the appearanc high rampart walls, spacious C halls and tanks. Its architectu inspiring.
This ancient Shrine has bei beginning with the Pallava di passing through the Chola, H kings and finally through the N under the British. Thus, it is t buildings and extensions. Th the thousand pillared hall and four huge gopurams on all fo Annamalayar are the presidin
FINALE — the sequel to the Rei
The sequel to the Retreat was worshipped in many South Ir
In Chidambaram, the puja att the eternal Dancer was exhila
44. To us Hindus, Thiruvannamalai is the hill is considered as a manif the Panchaboota stallas, the five at Kalahasti; water at Tiruvanna Chidambaram). A Nandi faces the 45 Pathway

Cultural Memoirs
North and Esaanya Lingam on to complete the pradkshinam ing all the way.
2 at Tiruvannamalai' was a part rough the streets to our various one of the grandest temples in s background, the entire temple e of a fort - its stately towers, |uadrangles and gateways, large ral and sculptural beauty is awe
en built by several dynasties ynasty in the 6th century or so oysala, Vijayanagar, and Nayak Nawabsand Tippu Sultanit came he result of several centuries of e outermost prakaram' houses the Siva Ganga tank and has the ur sides. Unnamulai Ambal and g deities of the hallowed shrine.
Joe (It
a pilgrimage where the Sadhakas dian temples.
he sanctum of the Lord of Tillai, rating as the Sadhakas Watched
one of the greatest Saivite shrines where station of Lord Siva Himself. It is one of elements (fire at Tiruvannamalai; wind kka; earth at Kanchipuram and space at main shrine in each of its five prakarams

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Tiruvannaamalai - The Spiritual Retreat
the exoteric and esoteric Wor architects of the temple comb sanctum is the esoteric aspec all-pervading symbol of God separates the image of Nataraj the Chidambara Rahasyam and form of Worship Seen and und
We next worshipped at St Sambandhar, 6 filled with the cymbals as we shared the echo the temple pond the kerni to Sambandhar had seen and p Consort disappearing across til is they who fed me with milk
Sprinkling kerni water on eac sanctity of the ancientshrinese our heads in prayer. It was a st the hallowed grounds and wo halls as Sambandhar did in t thrilled by all these memories
The next destinations were Tirukadayur. Before we turn to Tirunallaru where most of Lord Sannayeeswaran," the C Tirunallaru each of us lit the C and gingerly oil with a prayer piety for the Lord's grace.
Early next morning at the Cl Tanjore Temple known as Tan
46 Sambandhar was the child saint of
have been compiled as Tevarams
 
 
 
 

103
ship of Saivism unfolding. The ined these two aspects - in the II, the Akasha Lingam, a subtle symbolized by the void which a from the sanctum portraying the puja proper is the exoteric erstood by the devotees.
Berkali, the home of Saint Sounds of his Tevarams and es of the past. We stepped into view the gopuram, as young ointed out the Lord and His he sky to his father saying, "It when I was crying."
h other we felt purified as the 'eped through us and we bowed range feeling walking through rshipping in the same temple
he seventh century. Wasn't I |
the Vytheeswaran koyil and ed in for the night, we went us had "an appointment with readed Lord Saturn Here at hitty lamp with gingerly seeds on our lips praying with deep
'ack of dawn we entered the ai Periyakoyil. The rays of the
the seventh century A.D. and his songs

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early morning Sun were seepi vimanam. The sadhakas were of seeing the abhishekam pe: who stood majestically as t with its gopuran atthe entri sanctum, its colossal Lingam breath taking and we raised “Om Namasivaya.”
The Tanjore complex reflects fine achievement in temple at Saint Appar around the sevent came on the scene, is said to shrine referring to the temp The Cholas enlarged the ori ninth century making it one c India. The monolithic cupolav Crowns the vimanam giving The kalasa is so ingeniously is there a shadow'.7 outside it
We next worshipped at Mala climbing several hundreds of And on the eve of Vaikundha which falls on the eleventh d Sri Rangam. Going across the reached the picturesque Shri on Adisesha, the Snake. We celebrated song, “Aen palliko) This brought back memories
47 The tradition is that even the shad
should step on it. 48 ஏன்பள்ளி கொண்டீர் ஐய்யா ரீ ர

Cultural Memoirs
ng through the gopuram and the given the wonderful opportunity rformed to Lord Brihadeswarar he huge Lingam. The Temple ance the tall vimanan over the and the monolithic Nandi were our hands in prayer chanting,
the greatness of the Cholas - a chitecture. Tradition has it that h century long before the Cholas have worshipped in the ancient le pond as “Tanjai taalikulam." ginal small shrine around the of the grandest temples in South which is a marvel in engineering, it a height of two hundred feet. fixed that at no time of the day Splinth!
tikottai Uchchi Pillayar Temple steps to reach the "uchchi' top. Ekadesi, the important festival ay of Margali we worshipped at River Kaveri along the bridge, we ne of Sri Ranganathar reclining worshipped Him Singing the indiraiyah, Sri Ranganathare...”** of the lovely song to which most
ow of the temple is sacred and that no one
ங்கநாதரே

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Tiruvannaamalai - The Spiritual Retreat
of us may have danced at our Bharata Natya dance debut se
Worship at the Meenakshi Ten ancient city of Madurai came in poems, the Paripadal, the city lotus with the temple in the ce being the petals. The entire te the beautiful Goddess Meenak “Ashtasakti mandapam,” wher portraying the eight Saktis, th several columns carved out c seven notes when tapped and It was there that at the specia Lord Nataraja in his cosmic dar with his right leg. A beautiful sc in a scroll.
From Madurai, we went to Ran early in the morning for the " the confluence of the Sethu san Bay of Bengal and the Indian C plunged into the sea, while we held hands with the waves ro the Gayatri prayer hailing the vibrations of the mantra rose
flow of the waves - an unforge Sadhakas. This was followed b punya theerthams' and final which tradition tells us was cc
49. One of the many halls 50 Wells இருபத்திரண்டு புண்ணிய தீர்

105
respective arangetrams - the veral years ago!
nple which is the nucleus of the ext. In one of the ancient Tamil 7 of Madurai is compared to a ntre and the concentric streets 2mple complex is named after shi. The shrine opens into the e we saw the beautiful carvings Le musical pillars consisting of of a single stone, produce the the mandapam Velliambalamo al request of the Pandya King, ice, changed his leg and danced culpture portrays this sequence
neshwaram arriving there very Samudra Snanam” the bath at nudram where the waters of the lcean meet. The male sadhakas women stepped into the sea and cking us. We started chanting Sun at the hour of dawn. The and softened with the ebb and table opportunity given to the ly the baths at the twenty two ly worshipping at the temple Insecrated by Lord Rama.
த்தங்கள

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Having worshipped at Tiruch paying homage at the Vive sadhakas returned to Chenn
Through out the pilgrimag hallowed by great Saints and and Sundarar have Sung path His consort in the various tet Manikkawasagar sang the T young maidens of Tiruvann morning calling each other a
a bath.
This pilgrimage and retre memories, lingering nostals within my soul as the inner b South India. The beauty is se and Worshipped in these te years. These people are the g unsophisticated yet so full of of our Hindu race.
Addendum - Ramana Maharishi says i body as "I" is the mind. When the subt Senses, grOSS names and forms are COg
When it remains in the Heart, names a source of all thoughts will go and the shine."
In another instance he says,
What is called "mind" is a wondrous pov to arise; and apart from thoughts, the
Where there is no mind, "One should and shines within it. One cannot know
51 Songs referred to as Tevarams in

Cultural Memoirs
lendur and later Kannyakumari, 2kananda Rock Memorial, the ai and thence to Colombo.
e we were on sacred grounds Sages. Saints Appar Sambandhar ligams eulogizing the Lord and mples we had worshipped. Saint iruvembavai hymns seeing the amalai Waking up early in the ind going to the temple tank for
at left me with unforgettable gia and continues to live right eauty in the temple landscape of en in the people who have lived mples for several thousands of entle beauty of the land soft and wisdom and piety, the backbone
in one instance - "That which rises in this emind emerges through the brain and the nized.
nd forms disappear – the ego which is the Self, the Real, the Eternal "I"? alone will
ver residing in the Self. It causes all thoughts 'e is no such thing as mind.
know one's Self." "God illumines the mind
God by means of the mind.
Tamil

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Tiruvannaamalai - The Spiritual Retreat
One can but turn the mind inwards and 1
And continues -
"There is but One God, witness of all hidde
The Inner Self of all."
All that is required to realize the Selfist
What can be easier than that?
"The merging of the mind. In the Self is 'l

107
merge in God."
en in all Creation, absolute, pervading all,
Obe Still – summa iru (bestill)
Namaskar.

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%) (/ ( ()/
(The annual twenty five day celeb grand festival, the Mahotsawam of Chariot Festival. This is one of the and spiritually powerful rituals ir rooted in the millennia of the cult of unity with the Supreme One. It and joy mingled with deep piety).
"C//
// ahan! 52 Have the b,
the father as I was coming c door behind me."Yes, The ba I said giving my son a peck or lock up now. The car and the bags into the car and get going carry the luggage to the car I
We were flying home to Sr festival. For the past few years festivities but this time we de
52 Mahan — son

ܝܗܝ. الولار.
/26/oct/2
rations of Nallur Kandaswamy is the the temple that features the Ther- the most intricate, highly choreographed I the Hindu Culture of Sri Lanka. It is ure encouraging surrender to a sense is a grand fiesta of colour, creativity
ags been brought down," asked lown the steps and closing the gs are here - four pieces in all," the forehead. "Ammal You can driver are ready. Let's put the g," he said bending down to help barked outside.
Lanka for the Annual Nallur we had not come down for these cided to make the trip since the

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The Spiritual Odyssey - Nallur Darisanam
freshman year at the Universit return our son would be in tin
Both my husband and I loved be with our loved ones. I was
quality time with my father w He was looking forward to our who was most excited about t about the temple from me, re and though he had gone with us much except the large crowds gathering kept saying when th of the Murti the presiding deit
The previous evening at dinn the forthcoming trip calling it Appa,' he began speaking to but more interested in talking his thoughts. "Yes Kunjul First us talk about the trip, the templ and what you have studied at encouraging him to finish his
After finishing his dinner and began -"There is so much that c its splendour. Its chequered hi of Nallur itself as you would k Hinduism. It is tucked into the h was a capital that had seen ther where places of political, relig were built. These include the underground tunnel to the S
53 Father. Kunju - darling

109
y was to begin later and on his le for the first Semester.
coming home to Sri Lanka to excited because I could spend tho was growing old and frail. visit. However, it was our son he trip. He had heard so much ad a great deal on the subject searlier, he couldn't remember and the "Aroharas," that the ey were able to have a glimpse y, Nallur Kandan.
er, the young man was full of "Amma's Odyssey." "You know the father, not eating his food about the temple and sharing finish your dinner and then let le, Nallur Kandan, His environs pout all this,' the father said dinner.
d pushing the plate aside, he one reads about the temple and story is interesting. The town now is a flourishing centre of eart of the Tamil homelands. It ise and fall of the Jaffna empire ious and cultural importance old Sankiliyan palace with its addanathar Temple, Navalar

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Adheenam, Chellappa Swami" the Nallur Kandaswamy Tem
"The beginnings of the temp millennium. In 948 A.D., Chief first built a temple for Lord
Nallur though others say th Pooneriyan.
“In 1450, Senbaha Perumal, came from Anuradhapura to the temple. Regretting his a amendsby building the templ the Portuguese invasion, this built on the ruins of the tem
"Yes Kunjul this was the St. there. The Portuguese destro built churches on the ruins. razed the buildings to the build their churches and fort This is very unfortunate si and east were ancient and g Sea even before the first mil not there for us to see exc of the temples - a stone or ; church or the fort," quipped Boards of Trusts were forme Tirukoneeswaram Temples rebuilt and some of the ancie sea were restored. Howevel missing!" said the father.
54. The land of the priest

Cultural Memoirs
S Samadhi and more importantly ple itself.
ble go back to the end of the 1st Minister to Chola Kulangai Arya, Kandan in Kurukkal Valavuo4 in at the first temple was built in
the General of Parakramabahu ) conquer Jaffna, and destroyed ction, in 1457, he tried to make lein Muththirai Chanthai. During was destroyed and a church was ple,” said the young man.
James Church and it still stands yed several ancient temples and They first sacked the temples, ground and used the stones to ified the areas by building forts. ince these temples in the north to back to the Silk Routes of the lennium! And even the ruins are ept that we may see something a door jamb here orthere in the the father. "Fortunately Temple ld for the Tiruketheeswaram and and these have been recently 2nt murtis that surfaced from the , the ancient splendour is sadly

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The Spiritual Odyssey - Nallur Darisanam
"It was during the Dutch period was built again due to the effort and Ragunatha Mapana Muth Permission was granted to bui its original site in Kurukkal Val a simple style was chosen rathe style," he said asking me what
"I remember reading somewh built as a madaalayam - a Small for fear that it may be destroy father added that over the last this Small Shrine that was Con handed down through the gene has grown through renovations. to its present imposing form."
"Doesn't this remind us of An which also has come down th Paata within the family," the
"Yes, Mahan. Paatais the pres unfortunately though this ter Kings of Jaffna, it did not devel Kandaswamy Temple. The tem and renovation work on old site more expensive. I must add t Nallur Kandan — that is the h mark the beginning of the cele is ceremoniously brought from family," I said.
55 Grandfather

111
in 1749, that the Nallur Temple s of Krishna Subbiah a Brahmin |aliyar a government official. ld the Kandaswamy Temple in avu. Due to previous incidents, rthan the conventional temple this simple style could be.
ere that the new temple was shrine. Perhaps this was built /ed yet again," I Said and the : two hundred and fifty years Structed by an individual was rations from father to son and additions and embellishments
1ma's paternal family temple rough several generations to young man asked.
ent Trustee of this temple but nple was associated with the op as beautifully as the Nallur ple complex was much bigger sis more difficult and naturally hat during the Kodietram of oisting of the temple flag to prations, the cloth for the flag this temple belonging to our

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112
The father then brought b beginnings of the Nallur temp "You are right about the temp and finally coming back to its c “Coming back to the origina in ancient times, the ground constructed had been carefu auspicious situation and seed germination.
"You have done a great deal o its history. Good. Now we ar. Odyssey tomorrow. Let us ret and have along journey ahead must Wear the verti 56 and nati temple. Do remember to put iii into the bag. It would be good you close it," the father said as
Thousands and thousands of and without the country plan not merely to be in Nallur, but blessings - His Darisanam.”
In planning this pilgrimage, unknowingly planning to tra moving into a higher plane in is a natural extension of our Kandan who is at the heart C not only in the temple but in t nature and in the people - in And we pilgrims come with st
56 Dhoti 57 Blessings; to see and be seen by th

Cultural Memoirs
ack the conversation to the ble in the tenth century saying, ble being built three times over original site in Kurukkal Valavu. all site," is important because
on which a temple was to be lly selected on the basis of its led for the auspicious signs of
freading about the temple and e ready to embark on Amma's ire since we have to leave early d of us. Is your bag packed? You onalbanyan when you go to the n a couple of vertis and banyans if Amma checks your bag before he was leaving the dining room.
Sri Lankan Hindus both within this trip every year. One plans mainly for Nallur Kandaswamy's
We do not realize that we are nscend this material living and our spiritual life. The pilgrimage desire for darisanan of Nallur if temple worship. He is visible the whole continuum of life - in their birth, growth and death. rong faith and plunge ourselves
e Lord

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The Spiritual Odyssey - Nallur Darisanam
into fasting, prayer, worship flame of faith alive in our hea to our homes.
With a light heart and a grea and be seen by the Lord Himse festivities.
“The world rejoices and the As the Sun of Glory riseth fo
are the opening lines of the belonging to the early years of Lord Murugan as the Supreme ( sky bringing joy to all. Thi. beauteous picture that we see to annual festival in Nallur. Lord Nallur Kandan, Arumugan, Ka regally riding over thousands circumambulates the templeg
The ancient Tamils saw Him as and beauty, ever young and fr Him for more than five or six devotion that they had for Him collective consciousness.
The Tamils were able to visual as Skanda or Kartikkeya and po
58 Tamil Academy of the 1 millennium
உலக முவப்ப வலிநேர்ப்பு நிதிதரு பலர் புகழ் ஞாயிறு கடற்கண் ட்ாஅங் கோவர 醬 ச்ேன்ைவிழங் கவிரொளி
59 The archaeological findings of the Ii
remains unearthed at Adichanalur historic origin of the indigenous Mu is represented in mythology, iconog
and benign portraying the Hindu ide

113
and meditation keeping the rts and taking it back with us
ut deal of expectations to see lf, we arrived in Jaffna for the
many adore, or the world's joy,"
a celebrated Sangam work the first millennium depicting Dne riding across the luminous S is perhaps the very same pday as we gather for the grand Murugan called variously as dambam, Sanmugan, appears and thousands of heads as He iving darisanam to all.
an embodiment of loveliness agrant. They had worshipped
millennia and this faith and have been embedded in their
lize His peaceful countenance rtray His charm and grandeur
ndus Valley Civilization and the ancient resoundingly endorse not only the prerugan but also His primordial nature. He raphy and painting as a deity - youthful 2als of grace, beauty and wisdom.

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as Saravanabhava into their may be the creative touches corpuses of the artists conta poems, sculptures or paintin the hilly tracts of Kurunjila image of the entire Tamil ra
LS LS LSL S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S SL LSL LSL LS LSL S LSL LSL
"And as I lay on the bed th: had read, heard from my pa voice saying, "Hurry! Let's go yourself to the magical envi will feel the peace and calm had lived most of his life ab
excitement was about.
Both my son and I went to side-lane Chetty Street in N: front of the Temple, I reali one for this life time expe the crowds that early mori instantly overwhelmed us never experienced before. of calmness descended on aura as thousands and thous The whole atmosphere was stunning and exuberant cha
My son felt that after havi understanding only someth to be a new beginning for *Aayiram thalai kaanbadhu heads bowed in prayer is its he thought to himself as he

Cultural Memoirs
works of art and beauty which of the pen, chisel or brush. These ain graphic references to Him in tgs and we see Him evolving from nds, blossoming into a universal ce – Tamil kadaVul.
at morning thinking of all that I arents, I suddenly heard Amma's to the Nallur Temple. Surrender rons of Kandan in Nallur and you of sanctity." The young man who road was wondering what all this
Nallur. As we emerged from the allur into the huge quadrangle in Zed that nothing quite prepares rience. The sheer magnitude of ning awaiting the Lord's arrival, with a sense of peace we had Despite the large crowds a sense us. There was a strange mystic ands of devotees stood in prayer. an inspired burst of creativity - urged with spirituality.
ng lived abroad for so long and ing of Hinduism, this was going him. “Amma would often say, n punniyam, to see thousands of elf a blessing; this seems so true," saw the thousands of devotees.

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The Spiritual Odyssey - Nallur Darisanam
On the dot, the Lord arrived a resounding with the cascading priests, the blowing of con nagaswaram. Flowers were shov was done. All stood spell bound “Arohara, Arohara, “o” reverber they saw the Lord in all His regal timelessness. The atmosphere
And at that moment an overw cares and needs of earthly ex much at ease as my perception
"And the Lord moves," said the to the present as he saw the cha of devotees. It was then that he father's words earlier that mc temple when he had said, "Let a moment and feel that I too ha This is important for me.” Sayi morning to the temple.
As the Lord was riding the sea were elated. We experienced a C Lord's darisanam - His blessings
After the Chariot had moved devotees had died down aroun more about Lord Murugan. "A you, my Kunju.'
60 Exclamation
61 The chariot's "vadam" the rope
devotees
62. A term of endearment - darling

115
t the entrance of the temple mantras chanted by several ch shells and the music of wered in abundance and aarati land suddenly an outburst of ated through the devotees as ia. Time seemed lost in infinite vibrated with spirituality.
helming feeling made all my istence disappear. I felt very of life changed.
young man bringing me back riot being drawn by hundreds understood the import of his rning before leaving for the me lend my shoulder even for d helped to draw the chariot. ng so, he had left early in the
of heads both my son and I lose relationship between the and our fervour of wanting it.
on and the fervour of the d us, I started by telling him ll this has been wonderful to
chat is tied to it, is drawn by the

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"You know, this wonderfu immortal words of Saint Nal Tirumurukatruppadai where into the plumes of the peacoc spanning the sky and riding saw, didn't we also see amon the Lord as an effulgence acr this Light we captured the Li words, "Thou art ever young so appropriate to me event later as I see Lord Arumuruga fragrant and beautiful!"
“He does create a feeling of fr I said. And at that moment a were strewn from the sky ov
"Could this whole scene hav asked my son. “No! Amma y
Later that afternoon the you
"In the Chariot festival, we Lord Arumugan-one with si Lord's weapon brought out? the sanctum and not as I thic Shouldn’t a murti be in the si Vel is in the sanctum, shou out in the chariot today?"
“The forebears of this templ Vel instead of a murti in the seated on His peacock, He de which is symbolic of knowlec is worshipped," I said drawi

Cultural Memoirs
1 spectacle reminds me of the kkirar in his Magnum Opus, the : he weaves a brush full of Colour ck tinging them with golden hues as a glow of Light. As the poet lentago as the Chariot passed by, oss the sea of heads and through ord's beauteous form. The poet's , fragrant and beautiful, Sound oday several thousands of years am seated in the Chariot, "young,
agrance, love and devotioninus' low drone was heard and flowers er the Chariot from above.
e been better choreographed?" I Ou have said it so well!”
ung man was full of questions.
See Lord Kandan riding in it as x faces. Why wasn’t the Vel – the You did say that the the Vel is in ught Arumugaswamy the murti. anctum? And as you say since the dn't the Vel have been brought
2 must have decided to install the sanctum. Tradition tells us that stroyed the demons with His Vel ge and is the symbolby which He ng a picture of Advaita where the

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The Spiritual Odyssey - Nallur Darisanam
Vel and the murti are one. “It i the vel in the sanctum. Moreov Vel would have been brought Consorts Valli and Deivayanai twenty five day celebrations til brought outin different vahana I said answering his questions,
"I am a little intrigued by t Arumugaswamy. How is it An in this fashion - six faces and appear peculiar and perhaps an remember we were reading th who while visiting India never was notable to see the beauty in misshapen and crude! We ne detail so that more non Hindi appreciate the sanctity," he sa
"Let me explain," I said.
"The Hindu sculptor using i spiritual beauty of the memo. tangible forms. He captured not record in words. The risk approach saying, "Netil' "Ne trying to explain the image tha mentally.
The sculptor instead hinted at limbed images forgoing the rea anatomy. These images are not the Greeks used to depict the
3. A smaller chariot
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

117
Sappropriate to have installed rer in an earlier ceremony, the out together with the divine in the Sapparam." During the he Lord in His various forms is lms namely vehicles each day,"
1e iconography of the murti lma that the Lord is depicted one body? This, I am sure will nonstrosity to a non Hindu. You e other day about Mark Twain understood these figures and in them. To him they were "ugly, ed to explain these in greater us would understand this and id.
ngenious ways captured the ty of his experience of God in in Stone what the rishi could i would rely on a negationist ti!” “Not this! Not this!” while the had seen and experienced
the Infinite by chiselling multi listic delineation of the human based on the human model that r gods. The anthropomorphic

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ideal of the Greeks did not the Almighty that the Hind
"Hindu iconography wheth Advaita that is the Onene as many. In this we Hindu existence. To a Hindu the representations of the inv identified in our conscious must be understood in our worship only One God who — ‘nama, rupa' as we say in
“Next time we go into the te are less, keep looking at Aru There is an elegance and
profound Serenity and pe graceful subtly blending art perfect harmony embodyin hoping that the young mar
"Bravo Amma You have simple language," my husb forehead. And then told th super-natural that the scu However, you must remen manifests in different form
My son's reply was rather know Amma, I marvel at the capacity for image making have been rishis who were the Infinite through such p
64 A Hindu school of philosophy v

Cultural Memoirs
I portray the universal aspect of u sculptor was trying to portray.
er stone or bronze is premised on SS where the One Lord manifests s see a unity that underlines all Se images are murtis - material visible Supreme One and this is sness as the Almighty Lord. This prayer and worship. We in reality appears in many forms and names Sanskrit.
imple to worship when the crowds umugaswamy's faces – six of them. sensitiveness of line radiating a rfection. The figure is calm and tand piety, beauty and holiness in g Truth, Beauty, Grace," I finished
would understand.
: said this very clearly and in and said giving me a peck on my e son, “Kunju! It is to portray the ptor has introduced multi-limbs. ber that the Almighty is One but is and names."
interesting when he said, "You Hindu imagination and its vibrant ... The sculptors themselves must able to pour their experiences of ieces of art and sculptures."
There God and Soul are one

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The Spiritual Odyssey - Nallur Darisanam
That evening after the festiviti in athai's' garden when mama with Saintly and religious pers
"The temple is closely associate traditions. The devotees and sacred city of Nallur essentiall and also to visit the sacred sit is the sacred spot where the ( where Chellappa Swami spent of renunciation and attainmer who had left home and family
"In coming to Nallur, singing t we join in a tradition which lin) Swamis who were great pilgri taking up a life of homelessnes. and poets," added the father.
Nallur Kandan’s annual twent Culturalandspiritualfiesta, af joy mingled with deep piety.
“Nalluraan tiruvadiyai naar ellaam marappenodi kiliye.
the moment I think of the saCl I slumber into forgetfulness k sings Yogaswami expressing in that the devotees have as they sea of heads," said the young r
65 Father's sister
66 One who resides in Nallur
57 நல்லூரான் திருவடியை நான் நினை
எல்லாம் மறப்பேனோடிகிளியே

119
es were over for the day, we sat reminded us that Nallur rings OnageS.
2d with Chellappa Yogar Swami pilgrims come to Jaffna to the y for darisanam of Nalluraan' te of the Chariot. The Theradi chariot is parked and this was his life. He was a living symbol it and was a perpetual pilgrim as a true Sannyasin.
he songs in praise of the Lord, KS us with Chellappa and Yogar ms themselves and Wanderers S becoming itinerant minstrels
ly five day festival is a grand 2stival of colour, creativity and
i ninaiththa maathiraththil
767
red Feet of the Lord in Nallur, nowing that He is my refuge,"
a telling way the very feelings see the Lord emerging over the
12.
த்த மாத்திரத்தில்

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These thoughts of my young Nallur experience was spec descended on him he poure
"As you know, in the cour gathering of devotees for th to see the divine and be bles: He is most beautifully ado sandalwood, jewels and muc in the presence of Nalluraan see and be seen by Him. WC asked, remembering the mc
"Amma wouldn't it be good odyssey' as you called it," don't you? And in case youl to add it," said Athai servin,
"Did I call it a 'spiritual odyss was you who named it as "Ar
"Yes! Let's begin."
"The Nallur celebrations be hoisting of the temple flag during which period seve with abhishekams and pu Kailasavahanam, Tandayu the many special ceremoni forms comes out culminati ceremony - the Ther to giv sees for Himself the sincerit moves forward as the vada, t thousands of devotees and
68. A sacrificial fire or homam

Cultural Memoirs
pilgrim are indeed poignant. The ial and as the spirit of quietude d out his thoughts.
tyard of the temple is the huge le Lord’s darisanam. All are here sed by Him especially today when red with fresh flowers, shawls, h more. And each one of us stands Land beholds Him in our eyes - to uldn't this be true worship?" he rning.
if you could sum up this 'spiritual asked the young man. "Yes why eave out something I may be able g dinner in the garden.
sey?” I asked. If I remember right it nma's odyssey!' I asked and said –
ginning with the "kodietram'- the g spreads over twenty five days ral yagamsoo are done together jas. The Manjam, Tirukartigai, thpani, Sapparam are some of es where the Lord in His various ng in the most colourful chariot e darisanam to the devotees and and devotion of the devotees. He he rope is drawn by thousands and comes back to take His residence.

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The Spiritual Odyssey - Nallur Darisanam
“The Ther utsavam is followed murtis are brought to the tem This is followed by the Tirukaly and the finale is the kodiirakk.
"Thus, our spiritual odyssey is b blessings that we receive seein the pilgrimage we saw the divil of the One, His Vel in the tem brought out we saw Him and their blessings on one and all. in different forms and names, times and places and the divini like Chellappa and Yogar Swan temple traditions," I said feel recapitulate the whole story fo
Nallur is a montage where the the ever changing times but rei of the colourful Tamil Hindus. past alongside the present-ag spirituality of the devotees, the from the Sanctum, the sound rhythm of the Nagaswaram m magic moments of Nallur Kanc
The Temple beckons us yea for yourself and discover you experience and you are bounc residing in Nallur as you get realize that He is in reality alsc
And as you discover Nallur, dimension of yourself."

121
py the Teerthotsvan where the ple tank for a refreshing dip anam the marriage ceremony, am the lowering of the flag.
based on the darisanam and the g the Lord in all His regalia. In ne in various forms - in images ple sanctum and when He was nis divine Consorts showering In all we have seen the divine in sculpture, symbols, shrines, e in great spiritual personages nigals - all based in the Nallur ling elated that I was able to
}I^ OULIC SO11.
annual festival co-exists with mains an enthralling spectacle The Temple lives on from the entle continuity absorbing the : numerous mantras cascading of the conch shells and the usic constantly recreating the dan’s darisanam.
r after year, "Come and see r own Nallur Kandan. It is an to fall in love with the Lord involved in His mystery and ) within you.
you would discover a new

Page 128
(/ . (//)/ހ.
VŽ. പ്രവേശി/
w would you like tc
for the Kumbha Mela festiviti February that year. "Would I Kumbha Mela! This is unbelie chair a little uncouthly, to giv and light headed all at once pinching myself. How my eye thought of Kumbha Mela and t hallowed days.
From out of the blue came th the Haridwar ashram was invi observances, spend time atth after worshipping at Kashi V.
The next I knew was that
Haridwar. Things moved so q of what was happening. Mec do - visas obtained, tickets bo

%'%')/,
go away with me to Haridwar es?" asked my husband in early like it? Go to Haridward for the vable," I said jumping out of my e him a hug. I felt overwhelmed "Could this be true," I asked es shone with excitement at the peing there during some of those
is invitation. The Swamiji from tingus to participate in the Mela eashram in Sadhana and return isvanath and Ganga Maata.
we were in Delhi enroute to uickly that I couldn't keep track hanically I did all that I had to oked and purchased, household

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A Dip. In The Ganga. The Sacred Bath. At Kumbh
arrangements made, bagspacke a mad rush and it was only in I that we were on our way!
The Swami-in-charge had senta the ashram to meet us at Hote to Haridwar by car.
We left very early the next mor quiet tree lined avenue watchi fluttering the leaves and slende was rising from the horizon in the rosy hues of early dawn.
“Let’s sing the “Kolaru Pathig started singing. We sing the set a ritual and we had so much fai naturally with devotion. Yogar taught the verses of this pathi to sing this daily together w our marriage we would sing th whether at home or outside, wh as we finished singing, we as us
After a few hours, the young saying, " Hari Om! Sir", we 1 refreshments. The driver need hot drink.'
59. This pathigam or chapter of songs i healing/protective effects when sur the bad effects of the stars and plane to A form of greeting as one addres

La Mela 123
2d and things organized. It was Delhi that I was able to realize
Brahmachari, a novitiate from 1 Ashok in Delhi and bring us
ning and were driving along a ng silently the gentle breezes rboughs of the trees. The Sun Ihe east diffusing the sky with
am," I said, and quietly we of songs daily at dawn. It was ith in the singing that it came Swamigal, the family Guru had gam and wanted my husband ith the Sivapuranam. Since nese two pathigams regularly lether walking or driving. And sual sat quietly in meditation.
Brahmachari turned round need to stop somewhere for s to rest and have food and a
S based on planetary positions and the g with devotion help to free one from 2tS
ses or meets another

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We stopped on the way before refreshments packed for us by break and gave the driver the
After a leisurely breakfast, W towards Narendra Nagar a winding roads. The slopes bath beautiful and peaceful. We d passing stretches of green fie
It was late afternoon as we
women in colourful dresses v strapped to their backs were r by the children as we distribu
We stopped for a quick snack proceeded along the road whic as we climbed steadily. The ra even though it was only afte getting cold and dark; the m various colours as the play C The darkened silhouettes aga sky-line along the way. The W appeared as if painted by a gia depicting the clouds seemed mountain ranges
Itwas late evening when wer was waiting for us. He gave “Welcome to the ashram bo'r month take time, Wash, ha tomorrow early," he said bles his feet.

Cultural Memoirs
reaching Rishikesh to have the | Hotel Ashok. It was a welcome
much needed forty winks.
e passed Rishikesh and moved long the narrower and more led in the warm Sunshine looked rove through Narendra Nagar lds ascending the hill slopes.
drove into Tehri where a few Vith bundles of grass and twigs 2turning home. We were greeted ited Sweetmeats and biscuits.
a lunch and coffee in Tehri and h became steeper and circuitous lys of the sun were now slanting rnoon. The eastern slopes were ountains before us appeared in flight and shade fell on them. inst the sky wove a captivating hole scene was spectacular and nt artist and his unusual strokes
to heighten the beauty of the
eached the ashram. The Swamiji my husband a bear hug saying, h of you. This is your sadhana ve a hot meal, rest and start sing us as we bent down to touch

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The ashram was quiet and pea pervading the place. We were yet we felt an unusual calm St the night.
"I have brought you to Haric amidst all the bustle of the husband. "Yes! It is an unbelie seems to creep in. It is indeed you! Thank you so much,' I saic
As we sat in silence the next m of Mother Ganga caressing c believe that we were in Hari Being in Haridwar itself was Kumbha Mela!
To us Hindus Ganga is Moth beloved of her people, roun memories, her hopes and fear victories and defeats. She is es ancient culture and civilizatio and yet the ever same Ganga the past running into the pres flowing on to the great ocean
Sitting on the rock on our f reverence knowing that Mothe aeons of time, yet its message o relevant today as ever! Both of inheritance that has been and we are links in that unbroken dawn of history in the immer is in this chain that we seek in

bha Mela 125
Iceful with a spiritual ambience 2 tired after a long day's travel ealing over us as we retired for
lwar. Isn't it lovely being here milling pilgrims?" asked my vable feeling of spirituality that la life time experience. Thank giving him a peck on his cheek.
orning with the cooling waters ur feet, I found it difficult to dwar for the Mela festivities.
unbelievable leave alone the
er Ganga, the river of Bharat, d which are intertwined her S, her songs and triumphs, her ssentially the symbol of India's in, ever changing, ever flowing L. She is indeed the symbol of ent nourishing one and all and of the future.
irst day, we were filled with r Ganga dates back to aeons and fServing and surrendering is as us felt proud of our great Hindu is ours. We were conscious that chain which goes back to the norial past of Hindu Bharat. It spiration in moving forward.

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And with these thoughts, We qui silence pervaded the early ha an aroma of peace all around breeze blowing over it resour “Om.” Like the river, the all en flooding the whole earth with seems to also resound Softly v
This panoramic beauty and r seeped into our very being chamber of our mind, the si melodious as the silence of na quite a while.
I opened my eyes gradually a Radhakrishnan's words, "Int the noises and clamour of the stillness. We may be solitary, commune with the quenchles moments of vision and achi renewal and the transmutatic
S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S
THE KUMBHA MELA iS an un of us.
It is to Mother Ganga that mi come to Celebrate the Kumb making Haridwar the hub gathering. The sight of the m one's breath away. Why even a while And the whole atmc auspiciousness and spirituali

Cultural Memoirs
tietly closed our eyes. A peaceful our of dawn as nature exuded d. The river was calm and the lded with the pranava natham nbracing silence of the heavens I its radiant light of early dawn With the natham "Om."
nelodious vibrations of nature as we retired into the inner lence of the Soul which is as ature. And we sat in silence for
ind Yoga was remembering Dr. he quiet of the soul, free from 2 World, we posses our spirit in but we are not desolate, for we Sinner flame. And it is in these evements that we effect Selfin of human into the spiritual."
forgettable experience to both
llions and millions of devotees ha Mela once in twelve years of the world's largest human illing crowds of devotees takes time seems to have frozen for sphere vibrates with sanctity, y. All this is unbelievablel

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A Dip. In The Ganga. The Sacred Bath. At Kumt
“We see the same river with a dip. Yet the very same sights s why," I asked. "Perhaps the playing on the waters give t answered.
“I bathed in the Ganga; there i a white American Woman fror the ashram. "However, there brimming with devotion," she
"See this magic and feel it a intrigued by her observatio fascinating teaching me thatt of worshipping, of finding pe Hinduism fascinates me - I S compressed into one at this M asked while partaking of prasa
"You are right. It is amazing be experience," said my husband
Listening to her was interesti but as earnest in the Mela as a holy bath in the Ganga daily bhajans, aarati and then pau ashram. She had travelled m just to be present for the Mela
And I continued, "For us, this go to Revered Swamiji for inv festival is amazing. One feels fires, sit on a rock, take dips i prayer and bhajans, walk dow see the beauty and magnitud

pha Mela 127
ull the pilgrims taking the holy eem unique each day. I Wonder tricks of the rays of sunlight his uniqueness," my husband
was no magic in the bath," said in New York who was staying at is magic in the people who are 2 said.
lso," my husband said greatly in as she continued, "This is here is a different way of living, 2ace and solace. Your religion ee the whole of spirituality is Mela.” “Isn’t it Wonderful?” She dam that evening in the ashram.
ing here; it is once-in-a-lifetime
L.
ng She was no ordinary tourist we were Like us she too took 7, attended the pujas, lectures, rtook of the prasadam at the illes and miles from the States
festivities.
Mela is the first and our thanks iting us. The magnitude of the special to sit around the sacred n the Ganga , join the evening In the wide road and above all e of the faith and devotion of

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the pilgrims. All these have what "Kumbh' is all about. A energies seem to seep into o
"You are so very right. O spirituality and vibrations a togetherness that we experi amazing specially to see SC same thing and doing the sa devotion, with so much peace
Tradition tells us that for ov been and continues to be ob origins fade in distant histol devotees reaffirm the traditi and Solace andgettherare op convocation of Hindus.
Dusk would settle down ever the cooling waters of the Ga watch the river flowing by a Om! Om!" resonating andpu feel the mantra, "Om' rever in the air and in the mountai true Hindu spirit as millions asking not for riches but fo) essence of the Kumbha Mela
These were the precious Swamiji had given us to be days of the Kumbha Mela. with the golden disk in the and gradually dipping into fading away filling us with

Cultural Memoirs
to be experienced to understand \ll these spiritual vibrations and ur consciousneSS."
ne cannot experience all this nywhere else. For example, the ence at the Kumbha Mela is itself many people believing in the mething with so much faith and and tranquility," she exclaimed.
er a millennium this festival has served to this day. However, its cy while millions and millions of ons, seeking purification, prayers pportunity to witness the greatest
y evening as we sit in silence with nga caressing our feet. We would nd Seem to hear the mantra "Om ifying the atmosphere. We would berating around us - in the river, ns. All this brought alive Bharat's and millions of Hindustake a dip peace and salvation. This is the pilgrimage.
opportunities that the revered at Haridwar during those early Evening prayers were beautiful sky illumining the whole scene the horizon with its orange glow he boundless vision of Ganga.

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A Dip. In The Ganga. The Sacred Bath. At Kumb
The Words, ʻSWagatam. Shar Gange," "Haill Hail! O holy Gal refuge - sharanaagatam," com the ashram as the Swami perf The whole atmosphere brims spirituality. The aarati song iss as the dusk grows darker and The spectacle of devotion is 1 the people, the song and the W together.
S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S
One afternoon Swamiji becko our silent sitting session. After
"Ever since you both came, y, the Ganga, offering puja, medi me tell you more about these
them. This is essentially to wa have collected over several bir gives us the opportunity to wa
**The ancient Hindu shastras si away the sins. Washing one's expression as bathing in holy W sea. In the month of Maasi (mid the asterism Magha, the time for bathing in sacred waters ar
"Outwardly the bath cleanses sanctified bath is through puja and meditation. Avail yourse sacred waters of the Ganga and

ha Mela 129
anagatam, shubba Swagatam nga - We have come to you for efloating over the waters from orms aarati to Mother Ganga. with spirituality - unbelievable ung by the millions of devotees the evening colours deepen. magnificent and the voices of raters of the Ganga all chorous
ned us to sit with him during
a while he said,
ou have been taking baths in tating and doing sadhana. Let ritual baths and why we have sh away our sins that we may this and that the Kumbha Mela sh away the sins.
Deak of many ways of Washing sins inwardly has its outward aters of rivers, temple tanks or February to mid March), under is considered very auspicious ld worshipping God.
and in the inner realm, the japan, prayer, bhajan, aarati ves of this and bathe in the | purify yourselves," he said.

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“Let me also remind you ab perform daily. Beginning wit ceremony, initially it is pol outward cleansing followed which is to nourish, abhish sweeten, anointing with san offering of flowers which is these that are done, are done that very core of our being, t which is pure and limitless Swamiji. All these made sens
While in Haridwar, we seem t for the time being – the mir worries, "Isn't this blissful devotees coming in wave aft the not so rich, all flocking fr even the World heeding a c. husband, one morning seein
"Yes! They come as Swamijis the Ganga, to cleanse thems and participate in the puja,
"This is indeed unusual. Ju Written on their faces as th dip. There is so much mag milling devotees. All these and sustained by their unwa power of faith unique and w true spirit emerging," my h

Cultural Memoirs
out the pujas in the temple we in the abhishekam, the anointing ring water on the murti — the
by the abhishekam with milk lekam with honey which is to alwood which is to cool and the with love comes at the end. All in reality to ourselves, to nurture he spark of Divinity within, that which is the Absolute," added e to us.
to have forgotten everything else ld, the senses and the mundane peace? Isn't it amazing to see er wave – the poor, the rich and om all parts of India and perhaps all from deep within," I told my g the crowds.
ays, to bathe in the holy waters of alves of Sins, listen to the Swamis apam, bhajans and aarati.
it watch the deep fervor that is ley mingle together in the holly C in the deep devotion of these men and women are supported vering faith and belief; isn't such onderful? In this we see Bharat's usband would say.

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A Dip. In The Ganga. The Sacred Bath. At Kumb
One early cold morning as well silently watching the hordes o the cold waters of the river, w to an elderly woman who kep Hail Mother Ganga!"
We understood that She had ti open with her family, had take aarati and then taken prasac offering prasadam. "I am poo ask for wealth but for peace a were aghast at her simple cor had captured the essence of th
This woman may have been un not illiterate - She was aware C come after days of travel, spent chanted all the while, collected back with her and was now re.
As each day passed we were a prayers, meditations, aaratiar being carried forward to the
bhajans followed by evening a
Just as we were seated to receiv. introduced a young couple whi of India to join us. "Meet the V Kumbakonam where “mahama
71 We Hindus generally have a few 'pc
collected by us or brought to us pilgrimages to the north. A sip oft is about to die – a sacrament which 'pot' is a tiny container made of an

ha Mela 131
inished our sadhana and were fdevotees taking their bath in e had an opportunity to speak t chanting "Jail Jai Ganga Ma"
avelled from afar, slept in the in a dip in the waters, observed in one of the many centres r; but I have enough. I do not und moksha," she Said and we ifession and realized that she Le Mela itSelf.
lettered; but she certainly was of what all this meant. She had I perhaps a couple of days here, da pot of Ganga': water to take ady to go back home.
lso participating in the baths, ld prasadam. We felt our souls heavens as the Swami led the
arati.
e the night's prasadam, Swamiji D had just come from the South enkateswarans. They are from ham” is celebrated in the Mela
ts' of Ganga water with us in our homes py relatives/friends on returning from his water is given to a person as he/she would help in the onward journey. The alloy

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fashion during these very Me in the Kumbareshwaran Ten
"Yes Swamiji! The Mahamag the vibrations are similar to t in twelve years the Maha Ma thousands and thousands of in the tank of the temple. Bu opens its doors to accommo by making Kumbhakonam a said one of the devotees.
On the last evening, the sublin with the coppery gold and the us immeasurably as we obser time in Haridwar. Our search hourfar from the maddenin despite the Mela crowds!
We felt greatly benefitted by call of the Mela given by SW as we were leaving the ashr,
This pilgrimage was a fulfill - the joy of being in the he in the river, singing the Lor silence and the wonder of pu of the Sadhana as planned b in solitude, searching and di the traditions, seeking purif us with unforgettable memc
72 This is the hushed gentle hou
impending night fall.

Cultural Memoirs
la days with the traditional bath ple tank," he said.
am rituals are also beautiful and hose of the vibrations here. Once gam festivalis celebrated where people come for the holy bath t more importantly, every home date and feed all those who pass veritable hostess of the mostess!"
metropical Sunset over the Ganga 2 vivid opal in the heavens, stirred ved sandhyopasana” for the last 1 for a quiet, Serene and peaceful g crowd was fulfilled in Haridwar
this pilgrimage. We heeded the amiji and felt deeply contended
1.
ment of Some long standing urge rt of the Himalayas, taking dips d's Name, sitting still observing ja and aarati. All these were part y Swamiji for us. We spent time scovering ourselves, reaffirming cation, prayer and Solace leaving rieS.
that hovers between declining day and

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A Dip. In The Ganga. The Sacred Bath. At Kumbh
We left Haridwar, blessed by children, you are now blessed yourselves through any challer You’ve had darshan at Kashi Vis you have taken dips in the Gang I am also happy that you were during these sacred days."
This was a Wonderful experienc approach to life, to purify and forward on our earthly existenc is a mere 'moment' in the longjo
Addendum
The Puranic Interpretation - Once every twelve years, a rare and auspi Vrishaba raashi and at the same time, th full moon day in the asterism Magha. This Kumbha Mela in the month of Maasi. Thi in Kumbhakonam, Haridwar, Sangam (Alli Lanka, at the Mutthumari Amman Templ
Aarati to Mother Ganga
Shrines, sacred tanks and rivers are all cer devotee feels the invisible presence of Go that have been invested in these centres devotees flocking there with faith and de day out. On normal days itself these vibrat of time when there are rare conjunctions ( Maasi Maghan occurs.
Legend has linked an unusual story Kumbhakonam. It is said that when the i Pralaya, the seeds of the next cycle of creat the vessel of Ambrosia. This pot was close for a long time on the waters of the Pralay the pot (kumbha) came to rest in a tilted the sacred Shrine of Kumbhakonam. The into a pool, the Amritavaapi, the theertha

a Mela 133
the Swamiji who said, "My with the strength of carrying ges that you may encounter. hvanath and Ganga Maata and a during the Mela ceremonies. able to do your sadhana here
e for us - a time to gain a new sanctify ourselves to move e towards our goal, for this life urney ahead of usin Samsaara.
cious time occurs when Jupiter is in the le Sun occupies the Mesha raashion a s marks the Maha Magha festival or the S day is observed with great reverence ahabad), Ujjain, Nasik in India and in Sri 2 in Matale.
tres of spiritual energy where a sincere d. This is due to the spiritual vibrations py the devotional current of millions of votion, year in and year out, day in and ions are felt; more so on certain periods fplanets as in the month of Maasi when
of Maha Magham to the Shrine of ce of the glacial age melted during the ion were preserved in an AmritaKalasa, and sealed and was said to have floated a and finally when the waters subsided, konam) position at a spot which is now eal broke off and the nectar flowed out m of the temple. And it is to this sacred

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tank that thousands of devotees flock bathe in the holy waters, fast, worship
"The real Maasi Magham is inside yo Amrita Kalasa floating on the waters person.
"The immortal Soul of man is the Am in the sacred kshetra of the heart, t Amritavaapi in the Anaahatha Chakra there. With His Grace the string that b into the pool of water, the pool of im his devotees to avail themselves of th water. In the inner realm, the sanctifi holy water. This will help to breakth samsaara and grant immortality,
A bath cleanses outwardly and the Mag in the sacred waters of the temple por one sits quietly performing japam, gr the inner Magha bath of purification.
Kumbha Mela originates from the tradi the ocean to Collect the amrita, the di
73 It is understood that in ancient take a dip in the holy Waters, t centers where the householder their family life. Such spiritual and fast are still observed accC manifest a divine energy Creatir

Cultural Memoirs
each year, more So once in twelve years, to
and meditate in the temple.
u," say the sages, tracing the story of the of the deluge as taking place within each
rita Kalasa and at the time of birth it rests he inner hiridaya. This is symbolically, the The Lord of your being Antaryaamin, rules inds the Kalasa is broken and one could dip mortality," says Swami Sivananda advising is opportunity and take a dip in the sacred edbath is through meditation, in the inner e 'cord of the Kalasa," namely the bonds of
gham observances consist of a bath in silence inds or rivers. After the bath in simple attire
adually concentrating on Him reflecting on 73
tional Story of the devas andasuras churning vine nectar of immortality.
days on such occasions, pilgrims flocked to hese centers were converted into spiritual pilgrims were given spiritual guidelines for Centers may have faded away but the bath rding to the conjunction of planets which g spirituality

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(/ U/, .'%')
M. a lovely autumn af
strolled through the Embassy "mellow fruitfulness' with the yellow, orange red and golder landscape. And with the winds r words of the fourth century pa that I am old, I fear I shall no m. beautiful mountainous scenes. ( me to the mountains giving me
How true these thoughts were old and that autumn was settin, to roam among the mountains the wonderful opportunity that earlier with my husband in Beiji and collect some paintings for
These paintings mounted or mountains as one un rolls pol

()/2, α/20 α ീ/
%
ternoon in Beijing as I lazily gardens. It was the season of leaves in different shades of 1 adding beauty to the whole ustling through the leaves, the (inter came to memory. "Now prebe able to roam among the However) these paintings take : the peace I need."
I realized that I was growing gin! and that I may not be able as I did earlier. Fortunately, : I had on a diplomatic posting ng, enabled me to study, paint the family.
scrolls do take one to the tion by portion to view the

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painting. The painter revealst a progressive series of views whole. And while viewing su actually passing through th feeling of roaming the moun
The Chinese artists captured rhythms of nature by their b peace into their paintings.
It was while learning the art a sense of peace and spiritual I learnt to commune with na I learnt to sit quietly studyin sounds around me - listening leaves, water falling on the ri The experience was wonderfi keeps coming and going.
It was Kuo Shi, a great Chi eleventh century who said, "V it is concentrating and medi the universe." Silent contem mind at rest the whole unive through man’s ability to liste the mind; not only with the
These philosophical thought on both Taoism and Chines aspects of Confucianism and a quietness to the soul. To the and full of misery. These a transitoriness and miseryth more beautiful, meditative
masterpieces and in viewing

Cultural Memoirs
hrough a multipoint perspective
and vistas linked together as a ch a painting, one seems to be 2 landscape that is depicted. A tains could be had
the harmonious movements and rush strokes infusing a sense of
of Chinese brushwork that I felt awareness seeping through me. ture and listen to her whispers. g and absorbing the beauty and Io the winds rustling through the pcks or the Snow falling silently. land beyond words, a cycle that
nese landscape painter of the When the mind is in repose, when tative, it becomes the mirror of plation is necessary to man. To a rse surrenders and peace comes n not only with the ear but with mind but with the spirit.
s of a meditative mind are based e Buddhism fused with certain Create a love for nature bringing Buddhist the world is transitory rtists have turned around the ough their paintings into things and positive. The paintings are them we seem to be led into the

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Listening To The Whispers of Nature
universal life where we could h winds, Snows, water and mists,
China is a rugged country. It and lakes are formidable; its lu and its four seasons add colou have created beautiful paintil the landscape, the delicacy oft and animals have been made different brush strokes.
I was greatly intrigued by all wanted to understand and kno brush painting. “‘Would I be abl. of the brush work and would I strokes," I asked myself. My encouraging as he said, "Not bound to succeed. Nothing suc
"If you are interested in learn would need a basket of traditi brushes, rolls of rice paper, in essentially mineral or herbal ir as the "four valuables,' said our who helped in arranging a teac
As a beginner the ink stick intri the ritual of preparing the ink a on the ink stone. The Chinese up of the soot of woods - pineal time I prepared the ink I felt th giving me the feeling that I bel of the Masters! And even now

137
ear whispers of the mountains,
S tall mountains, long rivers sh Vegetation, flora and fauna r to the landscape. The artists ngs where the ruggedness of he flowers, the bamboo, birds more beautiful through their
this and my artistic nature W more about this fascinating e to understand the intricacies pe able to master the different husband's reply was most ning like trying. Try! You are ceeds like success!'
ling brushwork painting, you onal material namely several k Stick, ink stone and colours 1 content. These are spoken of friend in the Foreign Ministry her for me.
gued me most. I learnt to enjoy fresh by grinding the inkstick Call the ink "Mo" and is made nd sandal glued together. Each at I was stepping back in time longed to another era, the era many years later when I want

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to sketch something, I still he little water and grind-up an dark and sticky. With a little 1 ink becomes luminous." The is more fluid allowing for mo use in writing.
It is from the ink on the St achieved and the beauty of p gentle lightness and darknes can be created in landscape painting objects in lightgrey or fog lending distance or b black in it. Many Chinese ma
Brushes are in varying size These are very different to The shafts are not tapered a and the bristles are soft and brush strokes.
The rice paper that is comm Smooth and translucent all necessary for the technique.
Chinese water colours are ma and generally used as was a painting comes very muc example are used to help in mountains or create distanc
Learning the strokes, learnin strokes were part of the ear line or a circle as a single b needs to know how to use a

Cultural Memoirs
army master telling me, "Add a ld down the stone till it becomes more water keep grinding till the ink used in Chinese brushwork regraceful lines than the ink we
one that a variation of tones is ainting lies in the mystery of the s of the ink. Great levels of depth S by watering down the ink and I giving the impression of a mist y using a drier brush with more Isterpieces are in monochrome.
es with soft and hard textures.
the traditional paint brushes. lowing for a more natural grip tapered helping to make Smooth
only used in Chinese painting is owing for smooth flowing lines
Silk is also used for painting.
de up of either herbs or minerals hes. Introducing a colour into h later where Soft Colours for toning down the ruggedness of
eS.
g to use the brush in light or firm ly lessons. To be able to draw a rush stroke needs practice. One brush, how to dip it in ink and

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Listening To The Whispers of Nature
freely manoeuvre the brush. T. controlled firmness to the stro help the painter to be mentally
I began the art of brush work circles - hundreds of them. " lightly in the ink on the ink st with the Wrist held above the table. This allows free moveme lines. The stroke is rapid and C supple," were the instructions,
And I practised drawing lines a the circles and lines were more firm. The circles were the begi simple but very natural.
In Chinese brushwork, painting rule - flowers and landscape. been chosen by the Chinese top are the plum, orchid, bamboo a flowers have been grouped int "Four Gentlemen," by the Chir who says, "sturdiness and ch to the plum tree which blosso Each of the other three signifi negligence, the orchid still brea most deserted valley while the chrysanthemum stands the att
Several blossoms were done, former and finally I had to copy me by the teacher. This idea of disconcerting since I had my id wanted very much to paint. Ins

139
hese activities naturally give a ke and the whole process will
more focused.
painting by initially painting Hold your brush erect, dip it one and keep drawing circles paper and not resting on the 2nt and enables more graceful ould be long or short, firm or
nd circles! I could now see that regular and the strokes more innings of the plum blossoms -
nature has generally been the In painting flowers four have personify a noble being - these ind the chrysanthemum. These o the "Four Paragons' of the lese painter, Liang Yin Boone lastity have been attributed ms in severely cold weather. es a noble virtue. Despite any athes a subtle fragrance in the pamboo grows upright and the acks of frosts."
each looking better than the asketch that was placed before copying his sketch was a little lea of a spray of flowers that I tead of elaborating, he merely

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placed his sketch before meat and I will later show you how And thus, I completed my first calligraphy saying that this W. the debut of spring giving a ph painting
In Chinese traditions, the prac was in this way that some of th preserved. It was not consider something that had been don spirit of the original must be u as the pianist or violinist pla spirit behind the composition
It took quite a while for me of 'copying." "There is so mu They do inspire us to paint, V "You may be right. However, painting, it is through this ar able to see in these later year ancient masters. This merel genuine works of the maste paintingstend to deteriorate a became important in Chinese
Let us take some examples. "Pa Sung dynasties are known th periods. We are able to see ar continuous tradition of more years from the copies that we from the originals themselves and admire old Chinese paint greatest schools of painting t

Cultural Memoirs
ld said, "Fill in the flowers first to paint the bark and stems." painting with a line of poetry in as a bark of blossoms depicting lilosophic interpretation to the
ctice of copying was not new. It e more ancient styles have been ed as 'copying but interpreting e earlier. I understood that the inderstood and brought out just ying Bethovan, brings out the
in his performance.
to fully comprehend the idea ch beauty in nature around us, Why copy?" were my thoughts. besides interpreting another's t of copying that we have been is some of the paintings by the y shows that very few of the is are available. With age, the nd decay. And the art of copying
painting," the teacher said.
intings from the Han, Tang and rough copies by artists of later ld know about the majestic and han one thousand five hundred remade by later artists and not In this way we are able to know ings which belong to one of the hat the World has Seen.

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Listening To The Whispers of Nature
“Wang Fu, for example, para themes of bamboos, trees and strokes with no washes. These are of rare quality. It is through brush strokes that one sees the Tsen's compositions.
With all these explanations, I ha sketches, completing the studi chrysanthemum blossoms. And have just completed the "four art.’’
I enjoyed every minute and to as I got involved in my paintin before me and listening to the slender stems of the orchid, chr bamboos in the garden. Howeve plum and cherry blossom trees were sturdier and taller.
While studying the different stro orchid, bamboo and the chrysa bamboo stroke was most intere the bamboo green first and the the yellow and with one firm sw which appears real on paper - the main body bamboo green! S segments as seen in the real she the delicacy and flexibility of th essence. "The bamboo is the syr the essence of culture and refine often as I enjoyed painting the

141
phrased Ni Tsan’s favourite rocks, painting them in firm are copies but the paintings 1 Wang Fu's naturally flowing
· graceful arrangements of Ni
ld to be satisfied with copying y of the bamboo, orchid and when I finished he said, "You gentlemen" in Chinese floral
me it was pure meditation g, studying the pieces placed winds blowing through the ySanthemum and the swaying 'r, listening to the wind in the was more difficult since these
kes that go to make the plum, nthemum, I realized that the 2sting. One dips the brush in n tips the tip of the brush in Ieeping stroke paints the leaf yellow, greenish yellow and imilarly, the shoot is done in ot. In doing this I learnt that e bamboo were its innermost nbol of summer representing ment!” my teacher would say pamboo.

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The chrysanthemum is agai The strokes vary according t and the colours are equally the brushes that one uses are leaves done by slightly thic shades of blue and green bl needles - each a stroke. Pair learnt that communing with pine tree silhouetted agains clouds
My brushwork arrangemen and my naturally flowing st and leaves of the copies In paintings even though I we would add a line of poetry giving it a professional touc
Besides the painting of flow fascinating especially the Cr and horse were also intere actual brushwork
In this way I was able to do and birds - the orchid, bar together with the Crane, pa
S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S
Next came the landscapes oldest continuous artistic tr
Initially I studied landsca miniature scenes done by t by portion I started and gra

Cultural Memoirs
in an interesting flower to paint. o each variety of chrysanthemum vibrant. The orchid is gentle and equally soft and thin with flowing ker brushes. The pine is done in ending the colours into the pine nting the pine is interesting and I 1 nature is best illustrated by the it a misty background amidst the
ts of the composition of flowers Irokes that defined the branches nade, were knitted into beautiful is only an amateur! The teacher in calligraphy on each painting
ers, the painting of birds was also ane and the parrot. The cat, tiger sting but I needed more skill in
a few more paintings of flowers mboo, chrysanthemum and pine rrot, and more birds were done.
which are considered to be the aditions in the world.
pe painting by merely copying ne teacher. Step by step, portion dually graduated to a full scroll.

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Listening To The Whispers of Nature
It was not merely interesting four seasons - winter, spring, S. scene portraying contemplatio the winds, communing with n doing these pieces I was able to Taoistic Communion With natur there is a literary tradition whic painting. In this tradition theid nature and not merely reprodu While portraying the spirit, th capture the atmosphere of tra found in nature using soft sha were exciting and challenging a deal of time painting and study
China is a rugged mountain mountains, rivers and lakes ar to Chinese landscape painting. of the towering mountains is t colours and tones; the tiny figu human dimension to an awesol outlines with mountain lines fa convey distances.
In olden Chinese traditions a “t a poet, a monk or even an aris who paints leisurely for the lov a one is a way of expressing
philosophical discussions, poet is a "wen-jen” a man of letters.
Why does he do so, one may takes to painting because in a his nature and find himself an

143
but challenging as I did the ummer and autumn, a typical n, listening to the whispers of ature and many more. While understand that on a basis of e, strengthened by Buddhism, sh the painter interprets as his lea was to grasp the rhythm of ice the appearance of nature. ne aim of the painter was to nquility, peace and serenity des of ink and colours. These and I was able to spend a great ring landscapes.
ous country with plenty of ld these have lent a meaning For example, the ruggedness oned down by the use of soft res that are introduced lend a me landscape and the blurred ding away into mists and fogs
ypical" painter was a scholar, tocrat or a busy civil servant e of doing so. Painting to such himself and participating in ry, music and calligraphy. He
wonder. A scholar or official ustic retreat, he may nourish nong natural surroundings of

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streams, rivers, lakes, mount serenity and peace.
The T'ang and Sung eras we painters and philosophers. the World and all its mean periods of time, to live amor sit in silence amidst nature V to the things unseen!
It was interesting to study a of the masters that my teac I realized that landscape p achievements of the Sung Southern.
Based on the geographic ce evolved according to the te Sung where the mountains Sung where the plains are b) fringe in its north. Even thou paintings, they share a basic
The monumental landscap Northern Sung School art uncompromising as the foi while the painted landscap reflect the broad dry plai mountainous edge and expr:
As I was admiring the few pai inner meanings of the painti and beauty are merged int In the Southern School the a kind of lyricism," were m

Cultural Memoirs
Iains and groves which bring him
re the augustan age of the poets, The artists believed that to leave less and cruelty even for short ng the mountains, streams and to was the best way to tune the mind
few examples of the landscapes her was able to place before me. painting was one of the loftiest
dynasties - the Northern and
intres of the dynasties, two styles rrain of the area - the Northern are formidable and the Southern road and dry with a mountainous gh these differences exist in their vocabulary and artistic harmony.
e paintings associated with the 2 awesome and as austere and midable mountains themselves es of the Southern Sung School ns cloaked in mists with a low ess a soft and personal vision.
ntings, I needed to understand the ngs. "In the Northern School truth p a unified beautiful expression. quality of the paintings reflects teacher's words of explanation.

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Listening To The Whispers of Nature
And then came the wonderfi Masterpiece. I was grateful to m He said, "Copy!" leaving a copy before mel "Use delicate yet s bring out the style."
I remember vividly working attempt at copying a portrait
celebrated Wang Chungyu (oft a painting of T'ao Yuan ming in the Imperial Palace. Tao wa have resigned his official posi in the Court. In copying, I ha carefully, his demeanour, his ex Through the delicate and swe able to capture to some exten Tao appears haughty and this expression in the painting, whi flowing robes, his hat and cape the aristocrat in him
S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S SS SS SS S S S S S S S S S S
One must remember that in Cl and painting complement and being a natural extension of the the use of the brush, the ink t be able to manipulate it and writing and painting. Calligra strokes that go into it are nu Chinese painting.
The meditative experience tha Chinese Brush painting led me qualities of a painting and seei

145
ul experience of sketching a ly teacher for this opportunity. 7 of Wang Chung yu's painting weeping rhythmic strokes to
on this piece. It was my first and that too a portrait by the the fourteenth century). It was (of the fifth century) as seen as an aristocrat and is said to tion in protest of corruption ad to first study the portrait pression, his flowing garment. eping rhythmic strokes, I was t the spirit of the old Master, is brought about in the facial ile the Sweeping strokes of the bring out the graceful rhythm,
ninese art, Calligraphy, poetry enhance each other - painting former two. One has to master hat needs to be absorbed and modulate its strokes for both phy is also important and the merous and form the base of
t I had during the years of my towards finding the spiritual ng the inner harmony of man

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and nature according to th The beauty of contemplatior from ourselves into the unive themes - hints of the infinite water, Snow, mists, flowerin speaks of powers and preset
(Very often my friends in the diff would ask, "Which of your paintin
This was a difficult question to ans it and as I was thinking I realizedt of achieving something - being des experience which brought about p. strokes and with ink washes, stroke
what Chinese painting is made of)

Cultural Memoirs
e Taoist and Buddhist concepts. land all thoughts that lead us out Prsal life are the chosen recurrent , whispers from trees, mountains, gtrees, bamboo, pine - whatever nces mightier than ourselves.
erent countries that we were posted to gs are you most happy about?"
wer atonce, I thought andpondered over hat certain painitings did give me a sense sply engrossed gave me a comtemplative eace within. Working primarily with ink as became all important and this is really

Page 153
%) ീ//
- / പ്രത്യു .
പ്രീ, sat on the Steps le
awaiting her children's return fr car would turn in at the gate and run up to her saying, “Amma W and give her a huge hug first lit
She loved this moment and Wou to Welcome the kids from Schc change and she was not quite p
Radha's story was sad and she to accept her lot. Her husband accident at a young age and die his eighth death anniversary - puja' was fixed according to th Radha's parents, brothers and a And all Raghavan's uncles, aunt
4 Death anniversary based on the mov
5. The almanac
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

ം പ്ര%/
/A) ފަހުހ، ./(ފަހު،
ading to the garden, eagerly om school. Atany moment the ther children would jump out, e've come back from School,' tle Krishni and then Madhuri.
ld give up anything to be here ol. But things were going to repared for the change.
found it extremely difficult Raghavan met with a masty d on the spot. And today was the 'thuvasham. The thithi 2 Panchangam' for today and unt had come from Madurai. S and cousins had come down
ment of the moon

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from the estates for the puja importantly Raghavan’s grar also there.
Radha did not want the thuv relatives and friends gathert To her and the children the event and lunch had to be als
During the earlier years, Raghavan's father would begi you sloka "Brahmaarpanam the family chant together an on why they have gathered t atman'. These moments wer years had passed Radha felt
Radha would also go with h. Mission Orphanage in Battical She would help in the cookin also bring with her chocolate. together with new clothes fo Raghavan. When she was ur money to the revered Swami to the children.
Eight years had gone by halı and difficult for Radha. Life ( and the days passed by relent and her responsibilities were dilemma as to how she could especially her in-laws. Yet sh
76 Soul

Cultural Memoirs
and lunch thereafter. And most ldparents from Kutraalam were
"asham to be an event where all ogether for lunch after the puja. thithi puja was a very solemn so a quiet affair.
after the main observances, n with the chanting of the 'thank ..." where all the members of d then he would say a few words ogether and pray for Raghavan's every poignant and though eight the pain very acutely.
er children to the Ramakrishna loa to serve lunch to the children. g and serving of food. She would S, Sweets and many more goodies r the children as being gifts from lable to go, she would send the ji asking that the lunch be given
tingly making it extremely long loes not stop even for a moment essly. The children were growing : increasing; she was in a terrible go on living depending on others he had to move on.

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The Superior Blend - Two Leaves And A Bud
"Now this second marriage
arranging is not to my liking
ready for this? What happenst father to be with them especial what to do," she kept praying a often 'speak' to Raghavan not k Help me! Raghav'She would k
Without her realizing, things w
“My parents are opposed to ti again. My mother-in-law feels a betrayal to her only Son," wi disturbing her. “This ideais pur He often tells me, "Radha you lovely children. How are you g a suggestion to make. Gopal is watching him for sometime. Ife and the children well. You need that a marriage would give you
Both fatherand Raghavan's sis young and had had only a fev sincerely felt that Raghavan However, all this was agonizing for a second marriage. "How cc
still in love with my husband herself.
Her parents had many misgivi second marriage. However, Ra to them again and again. Radh spoken to them several times merely because they didn't wa father for he was a little too

149
which Raghavan's father is and a little frightening. Am I O my children? They do need a ly little Krishni. O Lord, tell me sking for guidance. She would nowing what to do. "Help me! eep asking constantly.
vere falling into place.
he idea of a widow marrying that such a marriage would be are thoughts that would keep ely Appa's - Raghavan's father. are young and you have two oing to bring them up? I have a young man and I have been el that he would look after you to marry and get the security and the children."
ter Meera felt that Radha was V years of married life. They would want this for his wife. and she was not quite prepared ould I marry a man when I am ?" she would constantly ask
ngs and were opposed to this ghavan's father kept talking a's siblings and aunt had also ... And finally they did relent unt to antagonize Raghavan's formidable and they were

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too nervous to oppose him! thuvasham to be followed by
S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S
Raghavan and Radha were had their tertiary education following Management and 1
Radha was from Madurai - S under the benign shadow C Temple. She was born into
her mother who had inculca children which enabled Rad
good tertiary Institutions fo
After completing her prima Madurai she secured a pla Institute of Technology. Un her degree since she had deci Raghavan as his wife and tha
Though Raghavan had pass assume duties in the family later to get married and tak
Raghavan was born in Boga Sri Lanka and grew up in th immediate ancestors were pe force that had settled in the
Earlier under the Colonial ri from South India as indentu preparation of building roa and tea. These men and wo members of the coffee/tea cu

Cultural Memoirs
They came to Colombo for the a quiet wedding.
of Indian origin and both had at the Chennai IIT – Raghavan Radha, Computer Science.
he was born there and grew up if the great Meenakshi Amman a family of teachers and it was ated good learning habits in the na and her two brothers to enter
higher studies.
ury and secondary schooling in ce at the Chennai IIT – Indian fortunately she didn't complete ded that she was going back with it marriage was more important.
ed out earlier and gone back to Company, he came back a year 2 back Radha with him.
Wantalawa the "tea country, of le tea gardens of his family. His rhaps the last batch of the labour hill country.
le, families were brought down red labour to clear the jungles in ds and railways, planting coffee men were perhaps the founding ltivation. A number of them died

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The Superior Blend - Two Leaves And A Bud
for Want of facilities - medicine who survived continued to liv as best as they could and later maintaining their religious tra
After generations of planting pluckers, Madhavan Krishnant their own production of team leaves and a bud," grown in th by the family.
It was Raghavan's great grar proactive and was interested in from ordinary tea pluckers and more estates and moving on Krishnan developed the sma house and gradually built it u tea, a value based tea compar blend of Premium Tea.
Krishnan was Raghavan's gr father's footsteps and expan company naming it "The Supe the few estates and gradually with tea and more recently ir employing a work force of a fe
It was while expanding, that decided to have a centre in C. Kesavan was sent to Colombo to and supervise its workings. Th the estates, factory and produ
These architects both in B while expanding moved caut

151
, clothing, food. However, those 7e in these new frontier areas moved to the tea plantations, aditions.
tea and the women being tea Iogether with his family started ade from the collection of "two e plantations that were bought
ld father Madhavan Who Was in reversing the family fortunes Kankanis, to Managers buying to production. He and his son ll business into an industrial up into a well known place for ly specializing in the superior
and father who followed the ded carefully building up the rior Blend," managing initially adding a few more essentially lcluding oil palm and forestry 'w thousand people.
: the far sighted grandfather olombo and Raghavan's father start the new venture, manage le other sons were in charge of Ction.
Ogawantalawa and Colombo iously and were particular to

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maintain the company and planting of trees through Cri required wood as fuel for its increasing the forest cover a timber and fuelwood supplie income to the employees th
The grand father had been neutral' from the early day initial steps he had taken t sustainable while making designed the factory conser as an employee earlier. Fore. the factory started using na light instead of artificial lig
He had instilled a love for and was able to develop th we do must impact on Our C our surroundings" were the company. He would always "Superior blend of premiu freshest tea leaves of Sri Li the liquor a golden hue an ideal for anytime of the day
The grandparents havingh built it up empowering ea worked together as a unit looking after themselves ar
After several years and beir production, the grandpare water falls in the hills in Sol

Cultural Memoirs
the estates as eco-friendly units op rotation which would give the Cea manufacturing operations. By sustainable forest management of S was initiated creating additional rough fuel harvesting.
working towards being 'carbon 's itself and this was one of the ) make the company ethical and profits. He had with his experts vation model which he envisaged xample, for withering and drying, tural draughts ofair and natural nt.
the environment in his children is idea in their minds. "All that ommunity, on our people and on a values on which he built up his speak of their production as the m Ceylon Tea, straight from the anka’s finest tea gardens. Giving l flowery taste - a refreshing sip
99
elped to start the family business, ch son. They saw to it that they building up the future caringly d those working with them.
g satisfied that all was well in the its retired to Kuttraalam near the thern India. They bought a house

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The Superior Blend - Two Leaves And A Bud
renovated it and made it into a h for the grand children.
Raghavan as a little boy loved his grand parents. He loved list anecdotes about the family. She of the past - how they came to many dying on the Way and h religious practices. She would sa men finished the day's work all about their experiences. And d sing the Tevarams” that we ku pray together erecting a 'stone "Amman'79 under the tree. And our religion and traditions."
"Oh! Paati these stories are love generations of our family suffel maintain their religious traditi say Cuddling close to his grand 1 grandson and she loved talking
"The Colonial Master – the Briti to build up the new country that what was more important was clearing the forests and helpingi It was a very hard life and in t ever we knew, Cooked meals a were one large family.
"During those years, most of the their living conditions and wag
77 Religious songs in Tamil sung by the TS "Stone' is the ideal behind the idol 79 The goddess worshipped as Kali, Durg

153
oliday home for all especially
spending the holidays with Lening to his grand mother's would regale him with stories Sri Lanka, how they worked, low they remembered their ly, "every Sundown, when the I would sit together and talk uring those times we would new, learn from each other, ,' and worshipping it as the this helped us to remember
bly and I cannot imagine that red so much but were able to ons," little Raghavan would mother. He was her favourite to him.
Ish Raj brought us from India they had acquired. However,
that all of us worked hard, nbuilding roads and railways, he evenings we shared what nd had dinner together. We
tworkers had been exploited, es were poor. However, I do
sixth and seventh saints
ga-consort of Lord Shiva

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remember thatha saying Colombo struggled hard t workers, their wage hikes a happy that there was some
"And your great grandfath Krishnan were kind heartec of the Workers in their esta more importantly, helped
"And in this fashion, they consortium of tea. And nov on holiday. Isn't this good would say kissing him.
In Kutirraalam she taught F the Kutirraalam Falls in the He loved listening to the Ca at peace within himself. his grand mother saying, falling. It sounds so good this saying,
"You see Kunju, the cascad connects with your innerb and creates a sense of pea relax in this peace as your seeping in.
"All these sounds are apart surrounding nature - noth you will realize that you ar deep within you. Cultivate she would say instilling in
80 Grandfather

Cultural Memoirs
that the Communist Party from O win the rights of the plantation indbetter living conditions. We felt 2 one looking out for our welfare.
er Madhavan and your grandfather men who improved the conditions tes and gave them a better life and to educate their children."
were able to build up a business w we have retired and you are here l, my darling," the grand mother
Raghavan to appreciate nature and ! immediate vicinity of their home. scading water fall. He felt so much He would often discuss this with "Paati I love to listen to the Water and peaceful." She would endorse
ing water resonates and the sound eing. The soothing sound is musical ce and quiet deep within. You will eyes close and feel the tranquility
of you and are inharmony with the ling is jarring. As you develop this elistening to its inner counterpart this habit of listening to nature," him this love for nature. In later

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The Superior Blend - Two Leaves And A Bud
years he would speak of Kutt unspoilt destination nestled ir
These lessons of his grandmot Sounds and its all encompassi in good stead in his later life W and the beautiful in everythin
Raghavan as he grew older, m extraordinary aptitude to exp such simple language. Her thou Sounds and all its beauty wer think that his Paati may be u but certainly not unlearned S. class. In her own quiet way sh strength to her husband and in for the environment which he
S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S
The Company was gradually b often the grand father would spend several days listening to the company was facing. His family would heed his words a
S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S
Kesavan and family had move was expanding and an office t its interests. His children, Mee International School in Colon Levels Raghavan entered the Ir Chennai which is synonymous Information Technology. The

155
raalam as being a fascinating,
the hills.
her on nature - its beauty, its ng bounty - were to stand him there he learnt to see the good g and everyone around him.
arvelled at his grand mother's lain So much in life to him in Ights on nature, its harmonious e fascinating. He would often lettered in the modern sense he was a woman of culture and he must have been a source of must have been part of his love
instilled in his children.
eing built up by the family and | Come down to Colombo and the progress and the problems advice was invaluable and the nd actaccordingly.
d to Colombo as the Company became necessary to look after ra and Raghavan studied at the bo and after completing his A dian Institute of Technology in with excellence in the field of institute offers a wide range of

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study courses which are rect for a career not only in In Engineering and Managemen range of skills that prepare the family company.
It was while here in Chennait a year later from Madurai to Science. They fell in love a home soon after his gradual would keep in touch, come t Sri Lanka with him.
True to his word, he came Without completingher degl him at a quiet ceremony in M of both the families. She set
Raghavan and Radha were Madhuri and Krishni. As littl teaching her practices she h by her mother. She introduc one would find mother and
Raghavan inculcated the h nature in all its beauty and Madhuri to sing saying, "Yo sing beautifully. Play the tar listen to the natham - the with “Om” the mystic mantr Tevarams and we could all evenings."
81. The instrument with the base to

Cultural Memoirs
gnized as excellent preparation formation Technology but also t. Studying here gave him abroad him for a rewarding career in
that he met Radha, who had come study for a degree in Computer nd though Raghavan returned ion, he promised Radha that he back, marry her and bring her to
back to marry Radha and she ree opted for marriage, marrying Ladurai attended by the members tled down in Sri Lanka.
blessed with two daughters - e Madhuri grew up, Radha started lad followed as a student guided ed the habit of reading and often daughter reading together
abit of seeing and listening to sounds. He asked Radha to teach u learnt music as a child and you nbural and teach the children to sound vibration which resonates a. Teach them to sing a few simple sing them at prayer time in the
ne "Sruti' or natham

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The Superior Blend - Two Leaves And A Bud
He was planning to take the fam holidays since his grandparents travel to Colombo as they did with them and would call regul his grandmother informed abo family both in Colombo and Bo
S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S SS SS S
While the children were growin involved in the family business integrity and his marketing sk he built up the company makin
He was able to do this since a quality blend. He was conc building up the Centre rememb tea is associated with more tha black tea. He also realized tha promoting agent which is goc diabetes essentially because it
And the Company “Superior Bler becoming one of the leading tea long sixtyfive year history oft this was an achievement. Ragh plan for the future of the compa he had envisaged a diversificat into edible palm oil productio quality of tea on the other, mc facilities and investing in repla
On one occasion Raghavan hac their brand of tea, "We are inte we cater to and do stress that v

157
ily to Kutirraalam during these were growing old and couldn't earlier. He was in close touch arly on the telephone keeping ut the well being of the entire gavantalawa.
g, Raghavan was getting more in Colombo. Dint of hard work, ills earned him a standing as gitan international venture.
the estates were producing entrating on promoting and ering all the while that Ceylon un hundred years of orthodox it this tea is a natural health d for heart diseases, cancer, reduces the oxidizing of fats.
ıd," Was growing in importance | exports in the country. In the he family owned tea company avan had formulated a growth any. Together with his cousins ion programme - to diversify n on one hand and to ensure ldernizing the manufacturing Inting.
mentioned while promoting 'rested in the people to whom Ie are in the peoples' business

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serving tea and not in the t important yet subtle focus distinction.
Besides their markets in Company was looking for n Raghavan sent Gopal to exp office in Dubai.
S S S S S S S S S S LSL LSL S SL SL S S S S S S S
Unfortunately as the Compal met With the accident. He W. of hard work when a lorry him - it was a head on colli
Radha and the children we door bell rang. To Madhuri that day. She became frighte She merely understood that "Madhuri, why are you so
understanding that the chil Very Wrong.
“I'll answerthe door bell,'s moment she opened the di terrible had happened at Raghavan had met with a b
When the mother came bac stunned. And the grand par shocked and dazed.
"Paata what is happening," herself. Her mother was cryi has met with an accident,"

Cultural Memoirs
ea business serving people.” This gave the final push to achieving
Australia and New Zealand, the nore markets in the Middle East. lore the markets and manage the
ny was pushing forward, Raghavan as returning home late after a day from the opposite direction hit Sion.
are in their apartment when the , the bell sounded very ominous }ned even without her knowledge. something terrible had happened. agitated," asked the mother not d had sensed that something was
she said and went downstairs. The oor, she realized that something nd was told by the police that ad accident and was dead.
k she looked terrible. She looked ents who followed her too looked
Madhuri asked unable to control ng uncontrollably and said, "Appa hugging her two children.

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The Superior Blend-Two Leaves And A Bud
"Is Appa hurt? Where is he? frightened.
"Appa is dead," Cried Radha ch uncontrollably. The accident was on the spot. How could the fami
Little Krishni didn't understan Madhuri didn't quite underste something terrible had happen
That night was terrible - all cri talked of Raghavan for a very Raghavan had taken Radha wit longer wanted to live without the two little ones needed her.
The funeral was an endless as people. Everyone who had kno him, loved him were all there to one who was dear!
Radha looked tired and forlorn ghost. This man whom she had given up her studies and for who was suddenly gone. She was bal
She had no idea where to go no to. One thing she was sure - "I parents, nor will I turn to them knew well that their ideas abol strange and frightening. Perha so too. "I have lost Raghavan. V I do not need to wear my sorro

159
919
she kept asking looking
loking on her words, Crying Sbad and Raghavan was killed ly accept this?
d why they were all crying. und either but realized that ed to the father.
ed and in between tears they 7 long time. It seemed that h him when he died. She no
him. However she knew that
gony. The house was full of wn him and had worked with pay their last respects to the
and was moving about like a loved and for whom she had In she had borne two children, 'ely twenty eight years old.
what to do or whom to turn will not go back home to my or support," she decided. She it widowhood were obsolete, ps their community thought That more pain could I have? v on my sleeve as my parents

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would want me to by obser crying to herself.
Her Periamma's words just over and before leaving for are a widow now. We are all to you. But remember that t to follow - you should weal thali. You should confineyc
Having listened to this tira younger sister, was aghast! S very different. They felt ve more So Radha's plight. The widowhood as their clan ex
"Be with your in laws. Comp This would put you on your advised. "Do not come back as you think you should. Yol he will look after you all. We young brothers. "Wheneve come over," were their Wor
After all her relatives had said, “Amma * Radha, you c Krishni. This is your home after you. Meera is also the live in the annexe and I am do so. I want you to registe Colombo and complete you
82 Mother's elder sister 83 In Hindu traditions females -
“amma"

Cultural Memoirs
ring widowhood," she would say
a few days after the funeral was Madurai, were frightening. "You very sad that this has happened nere is a code of conduct you need white, no pottu, no flowers, no urself to the house!"
de Radha's sithithi the mother's he and Radha's two brothers were ry acutely Raghavan's death and y did not want Radha to observe pected of her.
lete your studies you had started.
feet. We are there for you," they to Madurai just yet. Live your life ur father-in-law is a good man and are there for you, Akka," said her r you need us, tell us and we will ds just before leaving for India.
left for India, her father-in-law ould stay here with Madhuri and and both Amma and I will look re for you. You could continue to sure Raghavan would want you to with the Open University here in r studies. We will help. Pray and
girls, teenagers, mothers are spoken to as

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The Superior Blend-Two Leaves And A Bud
ask God for guidance, to give y and help you to move on in life.
He was very concerned about
"Radha is still young and her has been cut short. She needs to introduce her to some one who two little girls," were his thoug tread very cautiously. “It is goi keep thinking ruminating in h that his wife was not intereste this move
This thought persisted in his n to do what was correct by Rad looking for a suitable person done very carefully and unobtr supportive of this move. She wo and encourage her son saying," Find someone special for Radha would expect this of you. No on endeavour."
The search for a groom contin of his wife and Samnanthis - difficult to convince. Yet I will pu choose the correct person," he
To him Radha was like his own d to his daughter he would haved mentioned this idea to Meera, he "Appa you would be failing in y Radha's broken life. Raghavan V
4 The parents of the man and wife are

161
ou strength to bear this loss
his son's wife and children. married life at twenty eight ) get married and we need to would also be a father to the hts and he felt that he had to ng to be difficult," he would his mind knowing fully well d, in fact very much against
hind and he was determined ha and the children. He Was and felt that this should be usively. His mother was very uld call from Kutralam often Kesaval remember your duty. I and the children. Raghavan e will dare oppose you in this
lued without the knowledge
Radha's parents. "They are Irsue this task and Godwilling thought.
aughter and had it happened one the same thing. When he reply was most encouraging. our duty if you do not repair
ould expect this of you."
ammanthis to each other

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He Was nOW more COn Vinc mother and daughter saying The search became intense. thought of Gopal loomed big. understudy in the process of And now with Raghavan go Colombo and appointed him Executive Officer. And whe details regarding the work,
It was on one such occasion t some work on the computer I am getting this letter read
do the needful," he said and to him saying, "Meet my dal
And with this began Gopal's would quite often under t not available, ask Gopal to and bring them home with Would meet. Gopal was fon the Company of the little gi awaiting their return. She W.
One day a few years after Ra in-law told Radha that she and lead a normal life, she interested in marrying again I spent with Raghavan are and I have two children that another marriage," she crie
However, he persisted in his together. Besides sending from School, he would often

Cultural Memoirs
ed especially after hearing his g that this was expected of him. Suddenly from out of the blue the Raghavan was training him as his building up the Dubai Company. Ine, the father got him down to in an acting capacity as the Chief never he needed to discuss any he would ask him home.
that he met Radha who was doing for her father-in-law. "Yes Gopal, y for you. Kindly work on it and | very casually introduced Radha ughter-in-law, Radha.”
s interest in Radha. The old man he pretext that the driver was pick up the children from School
the hope that Gopal and Radha d of doing this task and enjoyed rls and he enjoyed seeing Radha as polite but totally disinterested.
ghavan's death when the fathershould consider marrying Gopal Durst out Crying, "Appa, I am not ... My memories of the lovely years 2nough to last the rest of my life tRaghavan gave me. I don't need
d.
attempt to bring Radha and Gopal nim to bring the children home 1 set work in his office and leave

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The Superior Blend - Two Leaves And A Bud
both of them together. But Rat However, she was interested inh the conversations that she had matters in the years when he w Gopal realized that Radha was tea business and would use the improve his work.
Radha would keep herself fully children and their studies and the also spend time in the shrine roo me O Lord! Help me to acceptthi take my children forward. Shek gone. He is dead." She would op clothes beside hers. "He is not she would say sobbing. Gradual softened towards Gopal seeing t with him.
It was Raghavan's eighth thuv, gathered for the ceremonies in lessened her loss but she felt the in-law had introduced her to Go a good man and that he loved father.
"How long could I depend on
herself. "They too may be sudde What would I do? Where would my children?" These thoughtsk and again. And Gopal would feat
Raghavan's memory will alway, die. He would live on in my heau on this day. Her sadness incre,
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

163
dha was oblivious to all this! er work and would remember had with Raghavan on these ras building up the company. very knowledgeable in the information she provided to
7 occupied with studies, her 2 Workin the office. She would m praying and crying. "Guide is loss and move on in life and ept repeating "Raghavan has en the wardrobe and see his Coming back to wear them," ly over a period of time, she hat the children loved being
asham and the families had Colombo. The years had not pain less and now her fatherpal. She realized that he was ner children. They needed a
my in-laws," she would ask nly snatched away from me. I go? What would happen to ept coming back to her again Iure in all these thoughts.
remain precious to me until tforever," she thought sadly ised when she remembered

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the accident and the way h deep sadness and had born sadness will always be ther within herself thinking, "O me courage and strength t
The thithi puja in the m Raghavan's picture with th made for him, she felt ver been specially invited for parents from Kutriraalam. for all particularly for the
Radha and her girls loved t and she in return loved the Radha as a widow and was being arranged for her. She son, “ Kesava! you have do this marriage. I am so happy and Raghavan would want Radha's parents and her c move but she realized thatt
She had persuaded her hl a couple of months wanti marriage. "This should r ceremony and leave the yo children," were her thoug
All the relatives had com people. Radha retired to he to go to the temple with t part of the thithi observar glance fell on the pictures

Cultural Memoirs
e died. She had been filled with a e the loss inside her. This sense of 2. At these moments she would cry Lord, let me accept my loss. Give
move on in life."
Lorning was simple and seeing he garland that she had specially y Sad and lonely. Her family had the event and so had the grand It was indeed a very sad occasion grandmother.
the grandmother as Raghavan did 2m dearly. She felt very sad to see happy that a second marriage was would unnoticed by others tell her ne the correct thing in arranging that Radha's future is now assured this for his Radha." She knew that laughter-in-law were against this hey wouldn't dare oppose Kesavan.
usband to be with the family for ng to also be present for Radha's lot be delayed; let us finish the ung couple to settle down with the ltS.
: down and the house was full of rapartment and was getting ready he rest of the family for the final ces. As she was getting ready, her on the table.

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The Superior Blend - Two Leaves And A Bud
She looked at their wedding pic her eyes. She could picture ever that day at the wedding ceremo) over and she stood holding his h; three times. It was a beautiful da felt nervous. Raghavan held he very cold. He looked down as sh Raghavan Squeezing her hands now mine. My wife Srimati Rag years and even after his death,j her to the core.
Her nose twitched and she see homam, the jasmine and chry, garlands each was wearing. Raghavan's voice softly callin standing there by her caressing She saw him as he was, heard
home; she saw his gentle ways girls.
All this was so real. And she open his face and Smiled for the first ti and she felt the sadness slipping be there - a Sweet memory and may not love the way she loved
At that moment she heard her c We are waiting for you. Come do she realized that Paati had com beside her with tears in her eye waiting for you. You finish wh down together," she said.
The fire which stands as the Witness
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

1.65
:ture - his picture and closed ything exactly the way it was ny. The ceremony was almost and going round the homam y for both of them and yet she r hand and found that it was le looked up - both Smiled as aid, "Radha my love. You are ghavan!" Even after all these ust remembering this thrilled
med to catch a whiff of the Santhemum flowers in their At that moment, she heard g her and suddenly he was her with his charming smile. his laughter that filled their and his love for her and the
ed her eyes and looked up into time in years. It filled her heart away. "Raghavan will always now there is Gopal whom she Raghavan. But yet...."
laughters calling her “Amma! wn quickly." It was then that 2 up quietly and was standing s smiling! “Yes Radha we are at you are doing and lets go
- “Saakshi”

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Radha's glance moved to t graduation - he looked so sm well the honours that he he special mention that was ma
The third picture was with his been there if his mother hac with Radha since he was not vividly his words, “But, I wil the echo of Raghavan's voic will be Amma...”
Saying, "O Lord! Help me a tears but feeling more reliev several years she tidied her Paati who hugged and blesse out for the best and that she that Raghavan would still lo
"Yes Paati. He will always through her tears.
Both went down to join ther and together with him and others to the temple to do the moksha vilakku for Ragh
86 Moksha arrichachanai is a si
and the moksha lamp is also

Cultural Memoirs
he next photograph. It was his lart in his cap and gown carrying ad earned. She remembered the ide of his achievements.
sparents and a fourth would have I not said that he shouldn't pose married to her yet. She recalled l be Amma." She could still hear e and his reply to his mother, "I
ind my children," she wiped her red than she had felt for the past self up. She touched the feet of dher saying that things will work 2 should not worry anymore and ok after her and the children.
be there for us," Smiled Radha
est of the family. Gopal was there the children she was joining the a moksha archchanai and light
la Vall.
becial puja done for the departed sou it for the Soul.

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% ഗ്ര ര/
(). was served and th
food that had been prepared wi so elegantly by Helene, the wife in Beijing. It was a farewell part on a home post after a hectic p Cultural Revolution.
We were in the far East having be heard so much about how Hinc South East Asian Countries and
know more, now that we were in in Prambanan built by the Madh Borabodur Temples of Java in Temples in Cambodia were part c ouritinerary to Colombo after o Beijing and the former after Mal
We were wondering how we sh Angkor temples when the Vutth

7/////r ബ/
le guests were enjoying the th. So much care and served of the Cambodian Counsellor y for us. We were returning osting in Beijing during the
'en posted to Beijing. We had Luism had spread to the far were naturally interested to the area. The Hindu Temples yapahit Kings, the Buddhist Indonesia and the Angkor f this search and featured on ur postings. (The latter after nila).
ould set about visiting the is said that they would join

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us in this trip. We felt elatec so knowledgeable and that and his wife.
“In Cambodia there is a ren great architectural legacy le Khmers,' Helene said enco temples.
“Yes! Letus refresh our men all to see the architectural added Vutthi. They were com they were a little sceptical Cambodia. Things were cer that this may be their last
"Khmer ancestors' before a their country.
It was decided that we me Vutthis would organize the special boat ride on the eve
"During the season, there are ride could be difficult and a we are nearing the rainy sea else more pleasant so that the Vutthis.
We arrived in the capital ci were extremely tired. The la – parties and farewells, wer
And many more were the ar. Ambassador's residence in

Cultural Memoirs
l that we could go with someone too with a Foreign Office official
ewed interest in preserving this 'ft from the ancient World of the uraging us to visit these ancient
lories once again and go with you sophistication of our ancestors," ling home on holiday even though about the political situation in tainly not normal and they felt chance to visit once again their ny untoward upheavals overtook
et at Phnom Penh and that the trip to Siem Reap. It was to be a of the rainy season.
: a number of tourists and the boat little unpleasant. However, since son, we would arrange something We could travel in comfort," said
ty late the previous evening and st few days in Beijing were hectic e tiring!
xious moments at the Norwegian Beijing when I realized that Yoga

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The Four Enigmatic Faces!
was not in the dining room and talking in Norwegian across th
"Where was he? When did he le questions that were churning i
We were at the farewell lunche Mrs. Ole Aulguard. The Second was also over when Yoga rush usual Smile. He excused himse his lunch.
The Ambassador proposed the began reading from a slip of fire!’ Your son is missing
"This was sent to me from th immediately to our apartmer because it was burning! And that back and saw that the five firef and were waiting for me.
"I was more interested in findi friend the British Counselor's apartment on the fifth floor whe the child crying. The maid was on seeing me, the little one bur: was a box of matches on the t struck a match and that the wi This is all I remember, he crie
"My son was badly shaken and that all was well. The straw that after packing and the maid had the box of matches remained o
 

169
that the host and hostess were elong table
ave? Why did he leave?" were in my mind.
son given by Ambassador and helping of the second course ed back to the table with his
blf and sat down to complete
toast and in his reply, Yoga paper, " Fire! Your house on
e Bureau ascing me to come it in the diplomatic enclave tour son was missing rushed ighters had doused the flames
ng my son. I was told that our wife had taken the child to her in she had seen the flames and missing. I rushed upstairs and st outcrying saying that there able and that he had simply hole thing went up in flames. dhugging me."
it took a while to assure him t caught fire was the left-over not yet cleaned the place and in the table! ..."

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The last few days were thus h Our apartment was badly bl been dispatched earlier that be repaired and we had to en the maid was not accused of
We left Beijing a couple of C mind surrounded by a numl send us off at the airport. V visit to Angkor with the Vut
AS planned, we met the Vut them in the boat to Siem Re experience was wonderful.
We enjoyed the boat ride a five star comfort It was con pleasant trip, good food and with a senior foreign office The cabin was air condition journey we all seemed to har
And thus began our holiday
"This boat connects Phnom Sap River and Lake. It takes a travels fast and in the cent However we would pass sev communities of the great lak the surroundings along the a truly eerie lake since one
half the journey for the boat he finished.

Cultural Memoirs
lectic and it did take a toll on us. Arnt but our heavy luggage had week. The apartment needed to Sure that this was done and that negligence by the authorities.
lays later in a happier frame of per offriends who had come to Ve were looking forward to the
this.
this in Phnom Penh and joined ap the very next morning. The
Llthough it may not have been lfortable and we had a perfectly being diplomats and travelling official, we did have privileges. ed, and for the first part of the we dozed off
excursion to Angkor.
Penh to Siem Reap Via the Tonle pproximately six hours. The boat te of the lake for the most part. 2ral floating villages and fishing e," said Vutthi introducing us to Mekong River. “The Tonle Sap is does not see land for more than travels in the centre of the lake!"

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The Four Enigmatic Faces
Once we got out of Tonle Sap a the men opted to sit on the roc sirs,' said the steward. 'Holc yourself and once done hunker the temperature is high the W.
It was nicer there since one had Going up the river, watching th go by and waving to the childre air running through the hair V
Docking at Siem Reap was cha humanity. Fortunately, things whisked into a waiting vehicle
We rested a while and by four to make our acquaintances wit
"Let me introduce the temple sites. You may have seen pictur Whatever you may have heard the stupendous size, the perfect architecture and artwork that
"The temples are in ruins and t the breathtaking beauty of the centre of what was once the p that covered much of South Ea
"Angkor is indeed an architect ancient world," we exclaimed. "Cambodia?' We asked.
"The country which is today c fraction of the vast Khmer En Indo-China from the ninth to

171
nd moved into the river itself, f. "Make yourself comfortable onto the rails till you strap down for along ride. Although ind keeps you cool," he said.
a great view of the countryside. le villages and the paddy fields n, was interesting and the fresh was exhilarating
otic. It was a seething mass of were arranged and we were that took us to the hotel.
in the evening, we were ready h the Khmers in Angkor.
es to you before we visit the es or heard about the temples. , read or seen, all fall short of I proportions and the beautiful you are going to see!"
hese ruins perhaps symbolize ancient world. They form the owerful Khmer Hindu Empire St Asia.'
ural legacy left to us from the "How did you get the name"
|lled Cambodia is only a Small pire that controlled much of he fifteen century A.D. From

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the time of Jayavarman II the Khmer Empire was knov after the legendary first-cen Kingdom of Funan, the India earliest Cambodian Kingdom real roots. The English word name," Vutthi replied.
We also learnt that the begi civilization took place durir A.D. “The Khmer rulers str the subjects with a good p an intricate ingenious web perfecting their engineering the Mekong for agriculture. A prosperity where the king's C the agrarian Surplus resultec rulers invested these resou campaign of construction.
"The Khmers left Some fabul like Angkor Wat, Angkor temples, numerous Sculptur are the structures - more th are today the surviving ren and administrative metropo
“The augustan period of An who set the precedent of the the essence of royalty was with the king. The king was and became identified with death, the central temple bec
87 A formless oval symbol represen

Cultural Memoirs
to the mid-fifteenth century, in as the Kingdom of Kambuja, tury founder of the Cambodian in Brahmin Kambu. It is in this that Cambodian people see their "Cambodia' is derived from this
nnings of the Khmer or Angkor g the period from 802 to 1431 engthened the unity amongst olitical doctrine together with of canals, reservoirs and moats skills and using the waters of \ll these developed into an age of ontrol over water resources and l in immense wealth. Successive urces in a huge and expensive
bus and exceptional monuments Thom, Bayon and many more es and carvings in stone. These lan hundred stone temples that ains of a grand religious, Social lis, “ Said Vutthi.
gkor begins with Jayavarman II Devaraja cult - God King - where in the Lingam that linked Siva the universal monarch like Siva he sovereign deity. At the king's ame his mausoleum, his funerary.
ing Lord Shiva

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The Four Enigmatic Faces!
“Coedes* Speaks of the Mekong of civilization - one of the most influence has produced beyo efflorescence of Khmer civiliz introduction.
Armed with these facts we set explore their handy work - the
Angkor Wat
The ancient village sites are di Angkor. On one side of the 1 surrounds Angkor. The moat
causeway guarded by theasuras paddy fields and the gigantic tr. the landscape in which the Khr
Walking along the inner caus we saw Angkor Wat looming bi unique. From a distance were of symmetry and religion. Of III, was one of the greatest Khn and magnificent temple dedica shelter for the gods and introdu creating the God-King cult. On site with its entrance facing th
"Lookat its sheer stupendous m proudly. It is the Supreme ma; which symbolized Khmer powe achievement. I remember my n
88 A French author who wrote on the II 89 ASuras are demons; devas are mir
ancient texts of the Hindus
 
 
 
 
 
 

173
civilization as an efflorescence beautiful flowers that Indian nd India. Angkor marks the ation," he said finishing his
out to meet the Khmers and great masters of stone carving.
otted along the road towards 'oad Comes the moat which is crossed by the ceremonial s° and devas. The surrounding ees adda picturesquetouch to mer story unfolds.
eway and crossing the moat g before us, breathtaking and alized that there was a blend the architects Suryavarman ner Kings who built this large ting it to Vishnu. He provided ceda mysterious ambience by his death it became his burial 2 West, the direction of death.
agnificence!"exclaimed Vutthi terpiece of Indo-Chinese art, rand represented the highest other pointing out the beauty
ldianized States of S.E. Asia or deities spoken of in the Puranas -

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of the temples at sunset. She with a loveliness that touch
"Somerst Maughan didn't ap He spoke of it as being impre and that it needs the glow of the moon to give it a lov quipped Helene.
"Perhaps, Maughan had hist this comment!' I said greatl
“These monuments really di to make them lovely. Look a Look at the temples - isn'tth time of the day, with the slal seem to shine with a lovelin
The layout of the whole co interesting and it must ha temple faces the West and of death,' we asked the Guid She was a University student to help with the numerous
“One should view the ba anticlockwise direction as i rites. The temple form evolv with vaulted galleries raised of relief panels are treasur 'apsaras, or heavenly nym Ramayana and the Mahabh
“Within the outer walls ar. courtyard surrounded by g

Cultural Memoirs
would say that the temples glow es ones heart.”
preciate the beauty of Angor Wat. 'ssive rather than being beautiful of Sunset or the white brilliance reliness that touches the heart,"
ongue in his cheek when he made yamused.
O not need light from the outside it the glow - isn't it magnificent? earchitecture majestic and at this inting rays of the sun, the temples ess that touches our Soul," I said.
implex was stupendous. "This is ve some significance. Look the doesn't this signify the direction e whom the Vutthis had engaged. who was here during the vacation English speaking tourists.
is-reliefs of the temple in an n the practice of Hindu funerary ed into a multi-towered structure on terraced pyramids. The series es of art including reliefs of the phs and battle scenes from the arata.
a several levels each enclosing a alleries. On the third level is the

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The Four Enigmatic Faces
Central tower, the peak of the W towers unifying the whole. A br temple with the causeway lead
"Being a Vishnavite, Suryavarm Valour of Krishna and Rama — tł bas-reliefs," she said guiding u
“Here you see the battle of Ku with the Kauravas and the Pan directions with Lord Krishna a the battle of Lanka with Rama
"In these series we see that connected brilliantly with Surya conquests," explained the guid
We were also able to see the f representation of the churning event before creation. The c demons churning the sea in Sea
As the evening rays of the Sun W to note the play of light on the appearing to Sway in and out of They were dancers in varyingp delicately carved fingers.
A gold statue of Lord Vishnu eagle, was the central deity in presented Suryavarman II deif
While going round the temples believe that the geographical
the placement of the main ter in architectural form and is th

175
hole, together with four other oad moat surrounds the whole ling to the entrance.
lan portrayed the strength and he two avatars of Vishnu in the s through the scrolls.
rukshetra which is portrayed davas charging from opposite Is Arjuna's Charioteer. We see on Hanuman's shoulder."
t the ten headed Ravana is avarman's triumphant military le giving us the details.
amous bas-relief scene in the of the Ocean of Milk - a Cosmic arving depicts the gods and rch of the elixir of immortality.
rere receding it was interesting lapsaras the celestial nymphs the rock emerging and hiding bses holding lotusbuds intheir
mounted on the garuda, the the sanctum. This statue also ied as the god-king.
, we learnt that some scholars location of the whole namely nples represent the Universe le symbolic representation of

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Hindu cosmology. The whole the sacred mountain Meru a for the gods and it is to the g
And as we were leaving the c a tall form of Vishnu carved holding a spear, mace, disk a to watch over Angkor from
When a detailed study is m concepts stimulated the Khr architecture and literature al have derived from the Palla
Angkor Wat remains the la world to this day. The artist vith Scenes from the Kuru churning of milk depicted a
Angkor Thom
The last imperial ruler in Ca fortified city of Angkor Thon at its center. Bayon is the se Angkor Wat.
We reached Bayon the next gateway across the causeway by parapets lined with two one side and demons (asura side Supporting a gigantic
portraying the Puranic lege of Milk. The causeway lead. decorated with a sandston

Cultural Memoirs
structure was a representation of nd was meant to provide shelter gods that these temples belong.
omplex, it was fascinating to see | out of a single sandstone block nd conchin four hands appearing the side of the mountain.
ade, one realizes that the Indic ner traditions of administration, nd the Khmer alphabetitself must va Grantha Script.
rgest religious structure in the ic workmanship is sophisticated Ikshetra and Lanka battles, the long the corridor walls.
mbodia Jayavarman VIII built the 1 with Bayon the Buddhist temple acond most popular temple after
morning through the southern to the entrance. This is protected rows of giant images of gods on ) on the other-fifty four on each many headed serpent, the naga, ind of the churning of the Ocean up to the monumental gateway e elephant and crowned by the

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The Four Enigmatic Faces
huge faces of the Bodhisattva A directions.
We were able to traverse the flights of stairs, and see a co towers crowned with two hu faces of Avalokiteswara, a Ma mysterious structure, design : one first appeared to be a pile C were massive stones shaped in of cement or mortar and laid of up the face of the Bodhisattva.
The Buddhist temple of Bayon Wat. It is in the centre of A with sculptural images expr: of compassion (Lokeswara), W enlightenment (Buddha).
As we zigzagged through the l Sun penetrated through the sil inch revealing the many ston Those gentle Bodhisatvas kept seemingly to penetrate deep it seemingly to embrace us throu by appearing again and again while at other moments elusive moments from the root of th mysterious evocative faces sta centuries narrating the wond by Devaraja – the God-King in t reinforcing the Devaraja cult
90 Angkor temples have been neglecte
tropical trees have penetrated de buildings

177
|valokiteswara facing the four
many corridors, precipitous llection of fifty four gothic undred and sixteen Smiling hayana Buddhist divinity. Its and aura were baffling. Each fmasonry; but in reality they to sculptures without the use ne on top of the other to make
is Small compared to Angkor ngkor Thom and resonates essing Mahayana Buddhism Tisdom (Prajnaparamita) and
abyrinth of towers the rising houettes of tall trees inch by e faces with shades of light. Smiling with their closed eyes 1to the recesses of Our heart! gh their all knowing presence - at times level with our eyes bly from above or at still other e huge Banyan tree. These are back at us across several brful stories of cities created he liikeness of Jayavarman VIII
d to the extent that the roots of many ep into the buildings damaging the

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Bayon, the temple proper, is two square levels are decoral covering its outer walls. Th level where we found the to relief panels seemed less el The Khmer way of life is W. depicting historical events, glimpses into the daily life Khmer fishermen, marketv
"One thousand years ago, I Buddhist School. I Could alme in orange garbs wending the between the towers. Perha temple by their parents to the Triple Gem and the Eigh capture Bayon as it must ha “One could also picture agro day meal dana, for the child
"You are right these must
refectories and their dwellin lies hidden in the groves of more to my imagination. "S the paths, Collecting firewc finished
"Yes Helenel Perhaps all t of shramadana offering aln activity into the ancient set
“This is where the sermons Vutthi, adding something ta

Cultural Memoirs
a three tiered structure. The first ted with extraordinary bas-reliefs ese lead up to the third circular wers and the gigantic faces. The egant than those of Angkor Wat. ritten in Stone on the bas reliefs pattles and court life offering rare of the ordinary people like the endors of the area.
3ayon must have been an elitist ost see children, hundreds of them ir way through these narrow lanes ps they were sent to the ancient pe initiated into the mysteries of tfold path,' I said aloud trying to I've been during those early days. up of devotees preparing the midtren and the meditating bhikkus.
have been the narrow lanes, its gs round the temple proper which palm trees," said Helene adding ee Some are engaged in Sweeping od, cleaning the buildings," she
his work was done in the spirit 1s," I said infusing more life and
up.
must have been preached," said ) give more life to the scene.

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The Four Enigmatic Faces
"Picture the little novitiates stopping to view with love th placed within each tower!" I sai otherwise quiet scene.
It was a lovely exercise in ima more I heard the chant, "Budd Sangam charanam gachchaami, distant echo through one thous
Banteay Srei
We took a lovely trip to Banteay country side the following morn rising Sun were giving a rich gl Since the temple faces East it too Sun making the edifice glow wa
"It is a 10th century Siva temp reddish sandstone by a Brahm is referred to as the Citadel oft is Tribhuvanamaheswara. It is dimensional stone carvings," sa
"Yes Helene! The buildings a measured by Angkorean constru perhaps like the Cambodean W Wouldn't Banteay Srei be a fail forests? Wouldn’t Hans Andersc lovely for their petite "Angkore red sandstone adds a fairytale
miniature temples more colour

179
Walking along the pathways ne faces of the Bodhisatvas d bringing movement into an
gination and going one step ham charanam gach chaamil! ," as it seemed to come like a and years.
Srei through the Angkorean ing as the morningrays of the ow to the sandstone temple. k the fullbeam of the morning rmly in the sun.
ple of great beauty built on in of the royal household. It he Woman and its real name noted for its intricate three id Helene.
re miniature in scale when ctons. It was meant to be Small omen — petite and beautiful! ry palace in the heart of the in or Grimm find the settings an" fairies and nymphs? The appearance to it making the ful," I exclaimed.

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18O
Listening to our imaginary de that our imagination was ru colour to anotherwise old no
The Guide enthusiastically ex "What is really special here depict delicate female figur lotus flowers. Scenes from the colour to the lintels. Mostlint
"One sees Siva Nataraja in with several arms that hint c Lakshmi is another figure froz The temple is Cambodian in with Hindu symbolism in th essence, she said and added only be understood in the lig the beauty and elegance are
Banteay Srei was by far my visited. The carvings were ex more closely to the workman sculptor!
S SS S S S S S SS SS S S S S S S S S S S
The charm and architectural Thom and Banteay Srei wer short I would say that Angko is wild and erratic while Ban summarized Vutthi in a nuts
The structures that we had se to the Khmer metropolis whi houses built of wood have

Cultural Memoirs
scriptions, Yoga chuckled saying nning riot; yet it gives life and ments standing amidst the ruins.
plained the details of the temple. are the classic carvings which es in traditional skirts holding Ramayana are re-created adding els are within the inner sanctum.
the Eastern tower portrayed If a cyclical motion. Sri Goddess en for eternity on the pink walls.
idiom and the wealth of detail e Khmer tradition is Angkor in that the events portrayed can ght of Hindu iconography while the inheritance of all mankind.
favourite of all the temples we quisite and the work resembled 1ship of a jeweller rather than a
grandeur of Angkor Wat, Angkor e growing gradually on us. "In * Wat is classic and grand; Bayon leay Srei is small and beautiful,"
hell.
en in the past few days belonged are palaces, public buildings and long since decayed. According

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The Four Enigmatic Faces!
to Khmer traditions, the gods a stone houses while all others, in structures
Inourjourneythrough Angkorv in architecture and artistic style able to understand that the Khm religious traditions Hinduism a India. Through the many chang styles, one could discern a religic cult of God Siva to that of Vishr cult devoted to the bodhisattva
After reaching its zenithin the t the neighbouring states, the Khr VII adopted Mahayana Buddh construction of the Bayon in Ar
However, it was the advent of Sri Lanka that changed the at towards god and god king. Budi to the people and Buddhist icor parts of Angkor Wat and gradua
And to a tired people, the simp the rule of the next Khmer rule became more relevant.
"Yes!you are right," said Vutthi remains the eminent symbol of Yet after a few centuries of glory away making Angkorboth a ben of what Cambodians could achie their failure to return to such h of decline had taken a toll on

181
alone had the right to live in cluding kings lived in wooden
ve could see the many changes S. And through these we were ers had accepted the two great nd Mahayana Buddhism from es in architecture and artistic us movement from the Hindu nu to the Mahayana Buddhist , the Avalokateswaras.
Iwelfth century and annexing ner empire under Jayavarman lism and commissioned the ngkor Thom.
Theravada Buddhism from titudes of the Khmer people dhism became more relevant lography was retrofitted into lly Pali texts came into usage.
le Thervada Buddhism under ir Indravarman III, Buddhism
.."To the Cambodians, Angkor the country's past greatness. , the Khmer empire crumbled chmark and a burden - a proof ve and a constant reminder of eights again. These centuries our national psyche and the

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182
question arises, "Can We Su dollar question that we nee
“Yes you will,” we said coni
Both of us – Yoga and me, which fitted into the elabor lost its capacity to renew it of South East Asia.
S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S
The tour of Angkor was spi to all of us as we were retur of our stay in the ancient Kl
"We enjoyed going round t thrilled us and took our br us an insight on how Hindu countries and that it still
these places is unbelievabl Constructions We seem to ha
We did feel happy in our hea – a Wonderful sense of peac than words can express. W what it may have been like
It was sad that our holiday
"I am happy that we were : together. We do hear rum Phnom Penh. It is time that Arrangements have been m airport early tomorrow m aurevoir," said Vutthi with

Cultural Memoirs
rvive as a nation?' it's a million
to ask."
idently.
felt sad to realize that Hinduism ate Khmer outfit seemed to have self under the changing scenario
ritually a sanctifying experience "ning to the hotel on the last day 1mer empire.
he Angkor temples. The edifices eath away. Being Hindus it gave tism spread to the far South East exists in some form in Some of e. With the sheer beauty of the lve got lost in a time warp!' I said.
rts witnessing a sense of serenity e pervaded us and this was more e did go back in time imagining and picturing a sense of serenity.
was coming to an end.
ble to join you in seeing Angkor blings of unrest in and around you all leave our country safely. ade to take you to the Seim Reap orning and let us say goodbye - tears in his eyes.

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The Four Enigmatic Faces
We hugged each other crying be the last time we would be se concerned about their safety we may not return to the cap God willing we will keep in to
Addendum
The ancient Egyptian Pharaohs five th incarnations of the Sun God Ra and we were buried in large impressive tombs,
Several millennia later the Hindu - but South East Asian concept of the king the
built to celebrate the king's divine rule
 

183
not quite realizing that this may eing each other. We were deeply ... "Do not worry about us since pital but find our way to safety. )uch," they said.
Ousand years ago were believed to be the are worshipped as god-kings. These kings
the pyramids.
ial hist cult of deified royalty became the : Khmer royalty. The Angkor temples were
on earth.

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പ്രീം Maitri and her br
their father admiring the Shri stood majestically silhouette streaking the northern sky watching over the people of
The temple, its environs and F and his wife Indhu and as th loved coming here.
Mahen Would relate the stor port city of Jambukola Patun learn that the present temple belonged to the Silk Route
unfortunately did not escap
91. The Portuguese invaders destric
in the island especially the Naguleswaram temples. The Ten close to the Jambukola Pattuna in the north of Jaffna which wa present day Kankesanturai.

//)س%//////
other Mahesh stood by Mahen ine of Naguleswaram. The temple d against the hues of early dawn
line. The temple is a sentinel
Jaffna.
{eerimalai were haunts of Mahen e children came along, they too
y of this temple and its ancient a to Indhu. She was surprised to 2 is not the impressive one which of ancient times. "That temple be the envy of the Portuguese
yed many Hindu and Buddhist temples Tiruketheeswaram, Tiruloneswaram and 1ple of Naguleswaram was originally built
or Dambakola Patuna - the ancient por t s used during pre christian times. This its

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The Inevitable Journey
invaders in the early sevent destruction left hardly anyth
"History tells us that it was led a revival movement at th rebuild some of the temples ir would relate the story.
"I wonder how one could re. traces left behind," she would this because the memories of minds of the villagers who ke them. Various artefacts of or submerged under the det safety, by the fleeing priests a Surface from time to time add to determine the existence spot„”he wouldadd. "Chroni have enhanced the memori and historians to relate the them enjoyed these converse their own. Both were not st interested in the ancient tem
In addition to its commer Dambakola was the Islands Indian subcontinent. Tradi Mahinda brought Buddhism sister, Theri Sanghamitta arı Bo Sapling from Bodhgaya on
While Mahen was thinking Indhu and remembering her they shared together, he fel
 

185
teenth century. And its wanton Ling behind in the old site."
Sri la Sri Arumuga Navalar who lat time in Jaffna and helped to 1 their natural environs," Mahen
build such monuments with no lask. "Perhaps he was able to do the temples had remained in the pt the sites sacred by venerating the temples hurriedly hidden, pris or consigned to the sea for nd the local people, continued to ing to the memories and helping of a temple at this particular cles and inscriptions would also ies helping the archaeologists story," she would say. Both of tions coming to conclusions on idents of history but they were plesofthe country.
cial significance, the port of religio-political link with the tion has it that after Arahath in to Sri Lanka in 250 B.C., his rived in Sri Lanka with a Sacred ne year later to this port.
of all these conversations with with so much love and all that it a nudge and heard the little

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voice beside him asking, "App perform. Amma's first year th
"Yes Mahal; not just here but c said the father deeply mov reminded him that it was one they were here to perform th year remembrance ceremony
The past year had been very that his wife was no more ar childrensinglehandedly. Mait just turned sixteen having examination.
Both Mahen and his wife dur life used to come to Keerir Naguleswaram temple and ta Keerimalai. They loved the p that he bought a piece of land themselves so that they could place. Unfortunately, this di become part of the High Sec years and now with his wife
he should do.
For the past few years they ha because of the ongoing war illness.
She was suffering from cance
Indhu was terrified when diarrhoea with blood in the
92 Thuvasham is an observance that

Cultural Memoirs
a! Is this where we are going to uvasham?ʼ92
Dn the other side in Keerimalai," red by the question. She had year since his wife had died and le 'aatath thuvasham,’ the first
I difficult for Mahen to accept ld that he had to look after his tri was ten years old and Mahesh completed his Ordinary Level
ing their early years of married malai often to worship at the ke a dip in the sacred Waters of lace and the environs so much, hoping to build a small unit for | spend more time in this sacred d not take place. This area had Jurity Zone during the conflict gone, he was wondering what
ld not come to Keerimalaipartly and latterly because of Indhu's
r – cancer of the Colon.
she discovered that she had stools. She was hoping that this
is observed at the end of the first year

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The Inevitable Journey
would pass but it didn't and doctor asked a few more ques bowel habits, is there abdom pain with the bowel movemer she was diagnosed as termina
The Word Sounded ominous Her initial reaction was, "O G be there with you. Well fight pray that you wouldget wel anxiety.
And from then onwards it wa him to accept that Indhu wa Indhu!
Mahen was with her during t knew that Amma was ilil but illness just then. The househol Appa was the live wire of the quiet not knowing how to he tennis and swimming because or the children needed him.
As the days passed, the hous the worst to happen. On retu more time with his wife and place which may have been r this and was under the impre little Maitri, a very considerat something was not all right help out in her own way. Shev the kitchen and help lay the for dinner. And bring the fam ever possible.
 

187
she told Mahen in tears. Their tions - "is there a change in your inal discomfort and abdominal its?" and finally with more scans land given a short period to live.
And left Mahen and Indhu numb. od! What do I do," she cried. "I'll
this cancer together and let us l," said Mahen not showing his
is care at home. It was easier for S very ill rather than a dying a
hose difficult days. The children did not know the gravity of the dihad gone rather silent. Though nome, he too had become rather lip Indhu. He stopped going for he wanted to be around if Indhu
ehold seemed to be waiting for rning from work, Mahen spent attended to chores around the leglected. Unobtrusively he did ission that no one had seen. But e child for her age, realized that With Amma and that she head to would help Kamalam the maidin table as Amma would especially ily together atmeal times when

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188
Surgery was over and it ha which the little girl had noti him his early morning coffe breakfast with her and Ann father would Smile and ackr
WayS.
Next was the chemotherap and painful for Indhu - it want her children to see he them into the room," she v
"Let me stop this horrible why make me undergo allt had come from abroad to S hair wig for her. "Oh Amm do,” said Maitri with tear kind and thoughtful as I lay feeling sad and sorry for h
The Resident Swamiji of the to help cheer the family . He would say, "Sing the L. yourselves be depressed. Ir would be remembering th eventually to reach Him. T verse in the Bhagavad Git person remembers Me, he
Gradually Indhu was fadi into that lovely household. very dear to them. The da wait for any one. The exte but the immediate family the "ettuchelavu" the eigh

Cultural Memoirs
ad taken a terrible toll on Mahen iced. She would remember to bring be and would persuade him to have a before they leave for school. The lowledge his daughter's thoughtful
y and the treatment was difficult made her hair fall and she did not rin this state. “Please do not bring would cry.
therapy; at any rate I am dying so his," she would cry. Her sister who pend time with her had brought a a, you look lovely in this new hair s in her eyes. "All are extremely dying on this bed," thought Indhu erself
2 Mission would come often mainly and clear the prevailing sadness. ord's Name always and do not let I this Way you all especially Amma, ne Lord and this would help her he Swamiji would often quote the a where Lord Krishna says, "If a will reach Me."
ng away and death Crept quietly Father and children lost some one ys passed slowly as time does not nded family helped in many ways had to face the reality. Initially thday observance was completed

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The Inevitable Journey
and then the first month over. Several programmes t undertaken in Indhu's name
Mahen cherished Indhu anc loved him. The inscrutable h Indhu away when she was sti overwhelming sense of lonel that Indhu and he belonged to and place. This relationship
One year had passed and the the first year rites.
Indhu died on Aadi amaa where, from time immemoria ancestor worship invoking departed Souls, seeking prot and praying that embodied's con Earth.
93 Ettuchelavu and andhiyesti cerer death. These were done with a vic and also to help lessen the sorrow
94 The name Keerimalai has been wo It is a thirtha and its curative valu many legends are Woven – Nagu loosing their respective deformi have been built around the cave historic origin for the shrine. I equivalent Nagulam mean a MoI been mentioned in many Indian r Puranam and Skanda Puranam in South Indian Hindus
95 The month of Aadi falls between
 

189
"andhiyashti's ceremony was o help deserving children were by Mahen.
I the children and they in turn and of Providence had Snatched ll young. He was overcome by an iness; yet he tried to remember each other in the context of time was not for ever; she had to go.
2y were here in Keerimalai°ʻ for
Vaasai, a day of remembrance l the Hindus have been practising g the benevolent presence of ection for those now departing ouls might be blessed with peace
nonies are done on the 8th and 31 day of aw to help the onward journey of the dead
of the surviving members of the family inderfully preserved in numerous legends. e of the waters is the theme around which la Muni and Princess Marudhapura valli ty. The entire temple complex seems to and the curative springs indicate a preTamil the word Keeri and its Sanskrit goose. The antiquity of this temple has eligious treatises such as Dakshina Kailasa licating that it was a pilgrimage centre for
nid July and mid August each year

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"And this day of remembrar Amma will be with us in her : Mahen.
"Aadi is the month that has be the performance of rites to ti ‘’’Pitir kadan,”°6 so that the d its onward journey.
Offerings for Aadi Amaava
"Keerinalai has been the
centuries with Hindus like u of the departed ancestors by pinda."** In remembering Amu our departed loved one. The please her, by oblations (tar and refreshment (panda),” tl
Offerings for the shraddha flowers, mango and banan rice cakes, milk, grass and essentially for nourishment
"Remember another impo saying that these ceremonie two conceptions of ancesto could be distinguished in th time onwards.
"The pitris are the distant h preta is the recently depari Amma is the last departed
96 A duty by the son to the dead (pa 97 Oblations – tarpana, nourishmen

Cultural Memoirs
ce is all important to us, since invisible form blessing us," said
en astrologically associated with ne departed Souls known as the eparted Soul will be blessed on
asai
scene of aadi amaavaasai for s coming here in remembrance way of 'tarpana, shraddha and ma, we live in harmony with her, se ceremonies are performed to pana), nourishment (shraddha), ne father explained.
, tarpana and pinda” include a leaves, black Sesame seeds, oil lamp. The sesame seeds are to the departed loved ones.
tant point,” added the priest 's go back to the Vedic age and "s namely the pitris and pretas e ancestral offerings from that
alf forgotten ancestors and the led parent and in this context. bne — the latest preta to whom
rent) ancestor
– shraddha, and refreshment – pinda

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The Inevitable Journey
we offer the oblations, nouris explained.
And in the midst of all the cere felt that while offerings were
mother and reconnecting em memory. In reconnecting and her grace protecting them.
And at the end of the cerenc of the mother. "Sit in meditat pray for her. The principle in rites is the worship of the der wishes so that they could be at rest of the year," explained th completed the ceremonies.
“Obeisance to you, Ogentle Am in his eyes as he poured the W seeds in the palm of Mahesh nourishment to Amma who h. explained.
And finally came the Maheswa is Annadanamo where the po the family share the food with to the pitris.
The entire puja was a beaut members shared in the vario about Indhu.
SS Feeding of the poor and hungry is a generally associated with annadaar
 

191
hments and pindas," the priest
monies, the father and children made they were revering their otionally and spiritually to her resonating with her, they felt
nies, they sat quietly to think ion and seek her presence and all these observances and pitri parted one and satisfying their peace with themselves for the le priest in greater detail as he
lma," said the father with tears ater to wash down the sesame 's hand. "In this way we give as already gone before us," he
ra Puja for all the pilgrims. This or are fed and the members of the relatives after it is offered
iful gathering where family us rituals, food and memories
meritorious act and all observances are am especially those with the pitris.

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It was sad for Mahen and th ceremonies for one so dear. A performing the shraddha cere them blessing her family.
Guide Lines -
"If a person remembers Me, Lord in the Bhagavad Gita.
"How does one remember Him should practice constant reco name, perform all his duties as remember Him as life ebbs out
As one reflects on the inevitab and equanimity come more ea
Om Shantil Sj

Cultural Memoirs
e children to perform these ll of then realized that while emonies, that Amma was with
he will reach Me," says that
at the time of departure." One llections of the Lord, sing His an offering to Him and He will
le outcome of life, acceptance sily.
hantil Shantil

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VŽ. (۶/////////
(The early hours of the Margal Hindu. The month of Margali 15 January.
The temples and religious cent of the Tirupaavai and Tiruvem and the softbreez es carry then spirituality. The month connot the embodied Soul from its long dawn of a new way of life awak
) /. ()/. were at the Chidambal
in Margali even before the stre cold and the overarching sky auspicious hour a spiritual ki whole atmosphere, a lovelines prayer, meditation, love and the temple bells floated throu
 

() / -
i dawn are very special to every falls between 15 December and
res relay the gentle symphonies paavaihymnssung by Maestros 1 charging the atmosphere with 2s esoterically the awakening of slumber and exoterically is the 'ning man's religious instincts).
am Temple that early morning aks of dawn were visible. It was was star spangled. And at that ind of loveliness pervaded the S which inclined our hearts to eace. The lingering chimes of gh the stillness and purity of

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194
the early Margali dawn gen auspicious hour of dawn - th
The earth revolves on its ax twenty four hour day and an to the Puranas,” a complet complete day for the Devas W and the next six, night-utta respectively. The month of usath kalam of the Deva been captured in the Tirupa Tiruppaavai hymns making though Krishna says in th aham,' of the months I am N considered a dark month!
The month of Margali is f marking the beginning of importance to the farmers. T certain traditional practice and during our postings abro the traditions that I had lea the Hindu almanac would b for the year closely followi may be posted, whatever th the Middle East, Asia, Euro
Every morning at the mail prepare the threshold for
99 Ancient Hindu texts
100 The dawn of a day is also ref conductive to prayer and medi the day, there is more ozone t ancient Hindus realised the sar
101 The Hindu month of Thai falls

Cultural Memoirs
lly reminding us that this is the e Brahma Muhurthan.
S, rotates round the Sun giving a year of twelve months. According 2 year of the mortals becomes a ith the first six months as the day raayanam and dakshanaayanam Margali is the hour of dawn, the S. The charm of this dawn has lli elluchchi, Tiruvempa avai and it all the more sacred to us. Even e Gita, “ ‘’’Maasaanaam Marglilo Margali, paradoxically Margali is
followed by the Pongal festival he month of Thailot which is of Throughout the period of Margali, s are followed daily in our homes had, I had my own way of following Irnt as a child. The panchangam, e my guide. I begin with Margali ng the traditions where ever we Le Season – Winter Or Summer, in le, Australia or the United States.
entrance to the house, I would Lord Ganesh by Sweeping and
rred to as Usath Kalam - the sacred hout ation. Scientists tell us that at that time of lan carbon dioxide in the atmosphere. The tity of dawn and observed it with reverence etween 14 December - 14 January

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The Symphony Of Margali
mopping the floor. I would b and placing it at the entrancet of Margali.
Then I draw the kolam. The
handed down from mother to on the floor with rice flour and of series of dots guiding the On completion it is a beautif area on which it is drawn. In t place a tiny symbol of Ganesh of turneric and decorated wit Season Ganesh is referred to as him to protect the family ar. month. Though this should be I would in most of our posting
Back at home the Scene is si areas around the farmsteads, Sunrise, a layer of fresh cow at the threshold by the mistre She Would then draw the tra fresh effigy of Ganesh made C collected and on Thai Ponga finally immersed in the river
The Margali season is now bat all that I had done at our variou postings. Remembering them Both my husband and I wer traditions especially in bringi
102. A small clay lamp that fits into
 

195
agin by lighting a chitti' lamp o dispel the darkness and gloom
kolam is an ancient Hindu art daughter. It is a design drawn the traditional patterns consist artist to complete the pattern. ul work of art sanctifying the he centre of the kolam I would in a conicular shape made out h a strand of grass. During this Margali Pillaiyar, and I invoke ld home throughout the dark 2 immersed in the Sea or river, is, Crumble it into a flower pot.
lightly different. In the rural on the first of Margali before dung is applied in thick Swirls 'ss of the home and left to dry. ditional kolam placing daily a f cow dung. These effigies are | day offerings are made and
DIT S622.
ck and my thoughts go back to Ls homes during our diplomatic was an exhilarating experience 2 interested in remembering ng up the family.
he hollow of the palm

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And now with all those yea feeling thankful that we during this Margali seasor Vice Chancellor of the A. valedictory Address at the were his honoured guests. met him several years ago his early diplomatic days i.
We were listening to the s Tiruvenpaavai hymns sung charging the atmosphere w beside us was heard saying this is my husband Deva. W from Oxford whom my mc meant to call on you at the I saw both Uncle and you ourselves straight away."
"Yes, your mother did sp we have met here in the Chidambaram Temple its all of them to Bharat.
The group consisted of a young men and Women, ta and New Year season
Chidambaram and its im season. The students we men were in verti and nat in Saree wearing flowers
them clad in this fashion
103 The nightingale of carnati

Cultural Memoirs
rs gone by, I stood by my husband were able to be in Chidambaram 1. My husband was invited by the Innamalai University to give the anniversary celebrations and we He was our host. I had only briefly but whom Yoga had known from In Delhi.
oft singing of the Tirupaavai and gby M.S. Subbhalakshmi, gently ith spirituality, when a young voice , "Aunty I am Sruti Devarajan and Te are part of the group of students ther had spoken to you about. We 2 University Guest House but since 1, I felt that we had to introduce
eak to us and we are happy that Sacred grounds of the celebrated 2lf," said my husband, welcoming
bout fourteen graduate students, king time off during the Christmas to study about the Temple of ort especially during the Margali 'e clad in traditional attire - the ional banyan and the women were on their hair. It was lovely to see which meant that they were really
music

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The Symphony Of Margali
interested in imbibing the tr SeaSO1.
"We are listening to th remembering that the h referred to as Usath - the Aurobindo speaks of as -
"The Dawn comes as the brin, Dawn and the physical dawning in the material Universe."
“These hymns indicate the da Lord's presence dispelling the fog of doubt withinus. The ligh of an inner illumination bringi outer world, the deep orange g coming Sun, dyes the sky blot day Smiles upon the sleeping the subject.
"The hymns are Tiruvemp. Manikkavasagar in the eighth C month of Margali become a ret period for mental and physica morning, particularly in the co keeps one physically fit and m
Let us quickly glean through a for the abhishekams," I said an meaning of some of the songs, hymns to each.
Tradition has it that in the old from house to house waking ea
 

197
aditional Hindu culture of the
ese beautiful hymns and our just before sunrise is incredible dawn which Sri
ger of Truth, She is the Divine is only her shadow and symbol
wning of the awareness of the darkness of ignorance and the it of Dawn is indeed the symbol ng spiritual riches while in the low that paves the way for the ting out the Sun and the new World," Yoga said introducing
avai hymns sung by Saint entury. The observances in the reat for the Hindus, a training purification. To get up early ld Margalidays and take a bath entally alert.
few hymns, before going inside d started explaining the inner after distributing copies of the
en days, young girls would go h other up and go to the river/

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pond for a bath singing th SongS.
"Paimkuvalaik kaarma
S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S
Saying, "Let us plunge int kuvalai flowers and rosy lot away our sins."
The pen picture of the tank lotus flowers besides the bl picture of Siva – Sakti. Just wash off the dirt on their b( His Consort to wash away and maaya. To The bath is pu waters of the tank is symb These maidens sing and pr for mental purity and free
“Aartha piravithth thu
"we sing and bathe in His so that our grief of binding
"Singing and bathing toget and togetherness, caring a another brings about Socia
"In the immortal Tiruppa poetess, speaks of these v.
104 Thangal malam kaluvuvaar Engal piraatiyum emkonum p Pongumaduvil pugap paainth --- aaduelorem paavaai."
105 Greed, action, veil of ignor,
 

Cultural Memoirs
2 praises of the Lord in beautiful
laraal semkamalap paimpothaal
o the tank filled with fresh blue
us buds in order that we may wash
is beautiful; the abundance of the ue lilies in the water resemble the as the devotees go to the tank to ɔdies so do they also go to Siva and their bonds - aanavam, kanmam urificatory and bathing in the holy olic of the bathing in God's grace. ay not for material gains only but dom from births and deaths -
yar keda naam aarthaadum,"
loly grace, the waters of the pond,
births may flee."
er gives a sense of social awareness nd sharing the pleasures with one lharmony.
avai lyrics, Sri Andal a Vaishnava rious aspects and the importance
vanthu saarthalinaal nruisainthu
nce – the three impurities

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The Symphony Of Margali
of being physically fit. She si paal unnom,” clearly impl necessary for mental and phy would enrich the mind and vibrations," she sings and cc
“Thoo malar thoovit] manaththinaal sinthikka
“one should think of the Alm pure flowers.”
"Thus the entire observance each other up going for a allegories. The maidens are i those whom they wake up a bound up in the material W of waking the ones who ar them up from the state of ig enlightenment.
"These special rituals of sing offering of flowers (archanai) are performed daily in all te the period of Margali.
At that moment, Sruti inte experiences with her friends Lanka, my mother continuest days. She would always tellu simple dietis “saatwick” — pli demeanour. Perhaps it is thi she says, “Nei unnom ....” a sin
106 நெய் உண்ணோம் பால் உண் 107 துர மலர் தூவித் தொழுது வா
 

199
(ngs in one instance, “’nei unnom ying that a simple fatless diet is sical well-being. "Avoiding these create good thoughts and subtle includes,
1 tholudhu vaayinaal paaidi
107 y
lighty, sing His praises and offer
s of the young maidens waking bath, bathing in the pond are a reality the advanced Souls and re the ones living in ignorance orld. The spiritual significance 'e asleep is in reality to wake norance to the state of spiritual
ging the hymns followed by the and showing of camphor (aarati) imples and Hindu homes during
rvened wanting to share her saying, "Though we have left Sri ofast during the Tiruvempaavai S as we were growing up that a tre and conducive to a peaceful that Sri Andal speaks of when nple fatless diet."
B6OTTLb பினால் பாடி மனத்தினால் சிந்திக்க

Page 206
200
"Your are absolutely right. M. these traditions and are v. occasions while others conti is, through out," said Yoga.
Now "letus listen to some of the Tiruvempaavai hymns t in silence to meditate. The listening and meditating,"
And all of us sat down.
After a while with the chin through the stillness of the the city to everyday life, we
The chanting of mantrams # the soulfully render ydeling group of pilgrims er whose compositions are the they sung.....where.... why.
These questions are asked b when they are unable to Co and beautiful. Being enmesh of the west, they tend to for and need to have the benign and re-enacted so that they traditions.
Just then the young profess saying, "Sir! Lets us go info) pillared Hall. Too Mandapam
108 Mandapam

Cultural Memoirs
any of our womentend to observe egetarians during such special nue to be vegetarians as my wife
these hymns in the anthology of hat have been explained and sit atmosphere is so salubrious for
nes of the Temple bells wafting early Margali dawn, awakening too got up from our meditation.
followed by the ethereal voice 'ed praises of the Lord made the nthusiastically ask, "Who sings, ese beautiful hymns, When Were ...what are the meanings.....?"
by many young men and women Imprehend something so serene edin material comforts and ideas get their rich cultural traditions and soul elevating Truth re-told get gradually tethered to their
or who was assigned to us came the ceremonies in the thousand

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The Symphony Of Margali
The ceremonies are about to for you."
"What about these young me the way from Oxford - coul view of the whole ceremony. not," he said leading all of us
"Thank you! This is great opportunity to observe ther
As we were entering the mai at the door Said, “This is the invited you to these ceremon chuckling, "The Lord!"
He was amused by my reply a mandapam saying, "By the L "That was a witty reply. Perk the Temple," said my husban
"We are now going to witness - the abhishekam of the Lord we would be blessed by the L said.
"It is in the thousandpillared the aayiramkaalmandapam, Tiruvaadirai are performed i said the young professor as W
The last day of the Tiruver early hours of the morning Tiruvaadirai. This is a day of the day Lord Nataraja disport the Souls of individuals. Trad
 

201
start and we have a special place
in and women who have come all you also give them a ring side ," asked my husband. "Yes. Why s into the mandapam.
since this would give us the ituals closely," they said.
adapam one of the many ushers VIP entrance. May I know who ies," to which I promptly replied
nd promptly ushered us into the ord Himself. This is wonderful!' laps he is one of the Trustees of dequally amused by my answer.
the special anointing ceremonies and at the end of the ceremonies ord's darisanam," the Professor
Hall at the Chidambaram Temple, that the special abhishekams on in accordance with the Agamas," e were entering the mandapam.
npaavai fast culminates in the with the Aardra Darisanam on great significance to the Hindus, S Himself in the Universe and in ition has it that the Lord danced

Page 208
2O2
the Cosmic Dance in the golden day. This dance is symbolic of H. the Panchkrityas.
Tiruvaadiraiis propitiated by ela water, milk, Sandal paste, Curd, cold Margali morning in Chidar this long and cold abhishekam,
"By what powers are you able magnitude"
"iththam seetham prabhoot
and answers the question hims the inner most recess of my hea with anxieties, fears, hatred at
scorching heat in my heart, In abhishekams."
The rituals are elaborate - abhish (dressing up of the murti) arch aarati (showing of lighted campl sincerity bringing about devoti devotee to perform internal ab all the anxieties, hatred etc.
The experience that we gained w the realm of prayer and spiritua devotees from various parts of pilgrimage to Chidambaram du of the mantrams, blowing of c nagaswaramusic keep reverbera a mystical atmosphere of faith

Cultural Memoirs
hall of Chidambaram on this is gracious perpetual actions,
borate abhishekams with Cold ruits in the early hours of the nbaram Temple. Referring to a poet in one instance asks,
to endure the cold of such
ham,”
elf by saying, "You reside in rt and this O Lord is white hot nd jealousies. To endure this eed to perform these cooling
1ekam (anointing), alangaram anai (offering of flowers) and nor). They are performed with on and adoration guiding the hishekam thereby cooling off
as wonderful, carrying us into lity. The Hall was packed with che world who make a special ring this period. The chanting 'onch shells accompanied by ting through the Hall,creating and devotion.

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The Symphony Of Margali
“Don’t all the pujas that we ha as befits a royal ceremony,” the Mandapam. "And at the the subjects, the Presiding D - holds court and we devotee professor leadingus out oft
May these spiritual symph millenia of our ancient Hindu us along the path of bhakti
Almighty, leading us from da
(see pages 100-117 and 166-1
 

2O3
ave just witnessed reflect regality
I said as we were coming out of end as the kings hold court for eity in His Residence - the Ko-yil is receive His blessings," said the 1e Hall.
onies of Margali, rooted in the Culture and traditions, encourage and help us to surrender to the rkness to Light.
83)

Page 210
ര
,%ހ).
Archana was dressed
heard the grandmother's ca young girl came running t dressed in uniform, she sai school just yet. You have Co. you need to rest and we need you have to be on a speciald this is not fair. I am takingp school Junior Netball team a practices. How could you di Archana. You cannot go to S bring some refreshments fo Walked towards the kitcher
Just then Neela the elder sist where Archana was still Cryi me to go to school," she ask

ഗ/)
and ready for school when she ull, “Archana! Archana!” and the o the grandmother. Seeing her d, "No! Archana. You can't go to me of age just a few days ago and to look after you, your health and iet,” saidtheoldlady, "Grandma! art in the school play. I am in the ind I need to go for rehearsals and this," Cried the child. "That's it chool. Change and lie down I will ryou," said the grandmother and
er came into the inner courtyard 1g. "Why is Grandma not allowing ed in tears.

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Fading Traditions
"Archana, Grandma is right. up having attained puberty been handed down from tim of transforming a child into a months and even years becC hood. Each girl has her own v a way that is just right for he you are growing up and nee In other words, all the caret with the ceremony are linked for womanhood and their la in society,” the elder girl sai to her when she attained put that her mother was living a piece of advice.
“More importantly,” Neela a body begin to produce hor Cause the changes perhaps er creating sexual feelings in you the younger girl giggled bein of motherhood and sexual fe
"Certainly not any sexual fee They are too rough for my
remembering the school deba Archana was in the Middle
realized that the boys whiled over her team and she felt h I will not have any feelings fo
Instead of rebelling, Archan to remain behind at home. "V Grandma and should listen to
 

2O5
As she said you have now grown and this is a tradition that has e immemorial. It is nature's way in adult, growing up gently taking ming a preparation for woman way of growing and developingdr. You are not a child anymore, d to be taken care of with love. hat is given and the rites that go to the social preparation of girls ter roles as wives and mothers d remembering all that was told perty - the only difference being ind it was she who gave her the
dded, "at puberty glands in the mones, namely chemicals that motional ups and downs or even 1. Listening to her sister's words, gamused at the idea of the roles elings.
lings for me. No! No! I hate boys. liking," she thought to herself te with the Jaffna Hindu College. School debating team and she Lebating were riding rough shod umiliated. "No! I hate them and
r them. Period," she decided.
a accepted all this and decided Why Create a problem. I love my her!"thought the child knowing

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2O6
that the old lady generally is the parents of these childrer increased manifold and shed that may affect the child in extra careful. And knowing she did not want to take any room for answers. She could
Archana was the younger dau Narendran and Neela the el third year at the Jaffna Med
Neela Was fond of her kid sist on the sister a great deal. Th ten year age difference.
The children had lost their when the group of Combata in Jaffna to escape the arm through killing anyone anc by the army shooting the Narendran and his wife Sh respective wards got killed Safety.
This was terribly sad sinc bounds during war and the roof to prevent aerial bom and hundreds of persons v. - hospital staff, patients, c civilians who had taken ref that would be the safest pla the following day all the bc by the military authorities, and cremated in the open

Cultural Memoirs
gentle but ever since the death of 1, Grandma's responsibilities had lid not want to make any mistakes her later years. She needed to be that Archana could be stubborn, chances and was strict giving no
be relentless at times.
ughter of Grandmother's only son der girl now studying medicine -
School.
er and the younger girl depended ey were close friends despite the
parents during the 1987 debacle nts ran into the General Hospital ly onslaught shooting their way everyone on the way followed ir way through. Unfortunately, arada Who were on duty in their Irying to evacuate the patients to
e hospitals are declared out of red cross is painted even on the pings. But that was not followed Jere killed on that one occasion loctors, minor staff and several uge in the hospital thinking that ace. And to make matters worse dies were collected like garbage neaped on the main hospital road a tragedy beyond words!

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Fading Traditions
And these two children bei and were left in the care of very young days, they grew the Vaidishwara Sivan temp go to the temple with the g Grandmother was full of sto Consort of the presiding de praying one should heartheri as she dances through the m "Do you hear it Grandma. "I d she would say. "Keep listenir anklet," the Grandma would
Time is a great healer and d two girls settled down to a q loving them and in turn bein,
S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S
Ever since the parents died in couple decided that this was of and did it willingly so that loss of the parents.
The grandmother was a very only up to the tenth grade. S in the modern sense but sh of continuing her studies the University, she became Vannarponnai family. Though handle the place efficiently ar in-law of the household.
 

2O7
came orphans all of a sudden the Grandparents. From their up under the benign shadow of le in Vannarponnai and Would randparents every Friday. The ries about Thaiyalnayaki – the 2ity and would say that while ng of the anklet of Thaiyalnayaki andapams blessing one and all. o not hear it even though I try," ng you will hear the ring of the
reply.
espite the irreparable loss, the uiet life with the Grandparents, gadored by them.
the hospital encounter, the old a task that had to be taken care t the two girls will not feel the
gentle person who had studied he may not have studied much e was not unlearned. Instead, and perhaps even entering the young fair bride of this timid and docile, she was able to ld became the loving daughter

Page 214
208
Before marriage her husban the Colombo University anc appointment at the Law fac
Over the years, he did his p took up the various positions and professor of Law which
He retired from service whi and decided to spend his tir – helping others whenever
university students. Howeve and daughter-in-law leaving too much to bear for the old and that the children were to accept. They were looki living with their son and far
Archana being the younger petted and pampered by all preventing her from going accept. She did not underst "Whys' loomed too big for to follow orders.
Earlier when Neela attaine were living and all that had The traditions that go witht and she was looked after ve in Hindu societies in Jaffna mother knew that the m evolving biological process much a part of this evolutio
109 Puberty

Cultural Memoirs
i had completed his law degree at decided to take up the teaching ulty in the University.
ostgraduate studies abroad and becoming the Dean of the faculty he held with great dignity.
en he reached the stipulated age ne in spiritual activities and seva and wherever possible especially r, the Sudden death of both his son the two girls in their custody was couple. Their loss was irreparable orphans was even more difficult ng forward to a quiet retired life mily. But alas! That was not to bel
of the two children was naturally and the idea of being kept behind to school was too much for her to and her sister's explanations. The ner but she realized that she had
d“saamathiyam”to the parents lobe done was done methodically. neceremony were closely followed ry carefully as had been practiced . As doctors, both the father and enstrual cycle is essentially an and the puberty ceremony is very n and life should become a normal

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Fading Traditions
Continuing process and not f The ceremony was simple and and friends unlike in the prese deal of money is spent in ext
The Grandmother in keeping important role in imparting
puberty and its meaning anc it was she who prepared the the child. However, she was a taking any responsibility bec take the responsibility. Nowth the same things over againbu that the child is kept well, fed of coming of age. The respon for her to handle. Yet it had t
The Grandmother had decide the child attained puberty th and explain matters to her.
Once her morning prayers and morning to Archana's room a me begin by saying that the pr as in earlier Hindu Societies, from participating in norma idea that should be "purified to the main family has been c we were not allowed in the h nights. There was a special ro to stay there looked after by Fortunately, these ideas arenc times and the trend is to let
this has to be done with great
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

209
illed with unwanted traditions. the invitees were close relatives nt day ceremonies where a great ravagant parties.
with olden traditions played an information to the child about | the care that goes with it and special food that was given to ble to do this for Neela without ause the parents were there to lings had changed. She had to do it with a responsibility of seeing well and taught the intricacies sibilities were a little too much o be done.
'd a couple of weeks later after at she should speak to Archana
chores were over, she came one nd said, "You know Archana, let 2sent girls are luckier than us for We young girls were prohibited | life while menstruating. The "before I am allowed to return onsidered more important and ousehold for a period of three Om in the Outhouse and we had an elderly relative or servant. W outmoded with the changing Ihe girls lead a normal life but
care and love.

Page 216
210
"However despite the fact mainstream of daily life, g menstruation was/is viewed as a positive aspect of a girl' experienced your menstrual given presents to mark thi relatives. These show that t important and must be obse the future of the girl child a
"All the changes in the girl, preparing her for events ir Archana, you are now grow attained puberty "saamatht
"When a child comes of age, with it. Parents do not direct It is either the maternal unc or the paternal aunt the fi people. When Neela came o Athai - your father's sister
"When I came of age, the trac were not similar to the tradi I remember vividly carrying special grass called ‘aruhan head andinitially I was giver in the backyard and my aul was my mother's brother a However, now with changir bath in the bath room with head; the bath that I had ha
conditions."
110 குப்பைத்த்ண்ணிர்.

Cultural Memoirs
that I was kept away from the 2nerally in our Hindu tradition especially the first menstruation s life - You are aware that as you period for the first time you were s special occasion by your close he event of puberty is considered }rved carefully or it would affect s she grows into womanhood.
make up the menstrual cycle of
I her later life. In this instance, n up or in other words you have hyam."
certain traditions are associated
tly participate in the ceremonies. le the mother's brother and aunt ather's sister who are the main fage, the first bath was given by and not your mother."
litions that were associated with it tion that are followed in your life. a tray with a cup of milk and the | pullu". These were placed on my abath on aheap of the sweepings it called it "kuppaithanneer.' It ind wife who did the ceremonies. gtimes, you were given the first the milk and grass placed on the snow changed with the changing

Page 217
Fading Traditions
"You would recollect that at the were dressed upbeautifully ins woodenjaro filled with rice gra and brought to the hall to sit w young married women each ca sweetmeats or lighted lamps. embellished and newer traditic make it colourful for a video p.
"The next is the aarathi when with three cut pieces of banan is brought by two young marri waving of the lighted tray. Onc. member of the family would cc evil, would wave neem leaves a specially prepared food stuff" take each item and circle arou finally throw it to the four cor is to ward off the evil eye."
"All these ceremonies are now have loved to see you looking sc need to see that you also remai you are given special food pri special food is merely to streng cook vegetables in gingerly oil and add a raw egg into your 1 vegetarians, our diet is very
except for the egg coffee. I ren grandfather on his sabbaticall in Western cultures, this same
11 Puberty ceremony 12. "மரத்தாலான கொத்து"
3 "பலகார வகைகள்'
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

211
2 “Saamththya chatangu', '1' you aree and carrying a measuring lins and covered by betelleaves ith the guests. You were led by rrying a tray of fruits, flowers The basic traditions have been ons have crept in essentially to resentation!"
'e lighted camphor on a tray as on which are placed wicks ed women and aarathi taken - 2 the aarathi is done an elderly ome up to you and to ward off round your head and with the that was brought she would (nd your head four times and ners of the room - this action
over and your parents would young and beautiful. We now n healthy. You are aware that epared carefully by me. This then you in health. I generally , I make urid dhal dumplings morning coffee. Since we are special and only vegetarian lember when I was with your 2ave in the UK, I realized that agg coffee is laced with a dash

Page 218
212
of brandy - done with the s girl extra strength."
"All these outward changes a to see that the young girl is p eye", and perhaps to "announ for marriage," she quipped young one. Unfortunately, Archana was falling asleep, her with the cover, drew the and let the child sleep for si that she was able to convey
S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S LSL S S LSL LSL LSL LS S SL LS LSL S S L L LS
The family lived in Vannar Grandpa's grandparents ho traditional 'naalsaar veedu," with adjoining verandahs 1 sitting room in the front. piece of furniture in the are early morning bath sits on it the old house remained the bathrooms for each room, a electrical appliances had be times making life more eas
Since it was now time for Grandmother got up slight bath at the well, and as usu in to the shrine room whic the lamp and its wick thatk night. She then plucked jasr the shrine room which wou by the aarathi that he take

Cultural Memoirs
same intention to give the young
and traditions are essentially done protected from the proverbial ‘evil ce that young Archanais available hoping to get a rejoinder from the while speaking she realized that She adjusted her dress, covered 2 curtains and switched on the fan ometime. The old lady was happy these important facts to Archana.
ponnai in their ancestral homeme in B.A. Thamby Lane. It is the - a home with an inner courtyard eading to the bed rooms and the The proverbial swing is the main 2a and the Grandmother after her t to pray and meditate. The plan of same but amenities like attached pantry within the main house with een introduced with the changing y and comfortable.
Archana to go back to school, the ly earlier that morning, had her Lal with her wet clothes she came 1 faces the courtyard, checked on eeps burning through the day and nine and nithyakalyani flowers for ld be offered by Grandpa followed
.

Page 219
Fading Traditions
After having changed into wears and combing her hair
came to the swing to recite pathigam and the Hanuman Ch and finally started swinging Natchintanai - "Nalluraan
maathiraththil elaam marap daily ritual. Her day starts v. the first ring of the Temple b.
To little Archana, this was a be watching it from behind th completes her aaradhana,' fresh and handsome in white have been kept for him by his she would join him singing seldom changed and were so old couple great peace and se
After the morning prayer and hottumbler of coffee laced wit and then sipher coffee. They their coffee in silence as the begins to awaken. This time, ti for themselves and seldom di they bore for each other for O
That morning was slightly dil had decided that Archana cc auspicious day specially chos almanac the Panchangam, sh
114 "The moment I contemplate on
all my worries' 115 Singing of hymns and prayers
 

213
the traditional saree that she sweeping it up into a knot, she the usual Sivapuranam, Kolaru alisa. She then satin meditation gently, humming her favourite thiruvadiai naan ninaiththa penodi..." This is Grandma's 2ry early as she wakes up with ell.
autiful tableau and she enjoyed le curtains. And as Grandma Grandpa would come looking dhoti to offer the flowers that wife, and do the aarathi where the aarathi song. This routine serene and beautiful giving the renity!
aarathi, Grandma would serve a h coriander powder to Grandpa would sit on the Swing enjoying day dawns and the household ney had unconsciously assigned d any one disturb them - a love verfifty years!
ferent. Since the grandmother ould now go to school on this en in accordance to the Hindu le helped her to get ready for
the feet of the Lord of Nallur, I forget

Page 220
214
school and said that she v room. "No Grandma, let's have breakfast - Grandpa,
After all had had their b. the table, she asked, “Gran university today. Last even to help certain students wit whether I could go with yo for important discussions ( before I come to the hospit
"Yes dearl you could come to be there and I will adjust ready to join you for my ret two grandchildren a great c and daughter-in-law and two children - love and g but to safety and a brightf for school earlier and we c back the car.
He needed to get Neelama could arrange her marriag son who was presently i Stanford, California pursu This was a mere thought th first needed to talk thema about it even with his dau Kandy with her family." thinking. The young mar agree and the charts hav hurdles and above all my has a mind of her own ar
 

Cultural Memoirs
puld bring her breakfast to her t together as we did earlier and ou, akka and me" she Said.
2akfast and Neela was clearing dpal Would you be going to the ng you did mention that you have 1 paper work and I am Wondering 1. I need to be there this morning in my paper that I have prepared al for my ward work."
with me. What time do you need my time for you. And then also be urn,” said the Grandpaloving these Leal. He tried not to think of his son preferred to concentrate on these uide them not only to prosperity uture. "Archana would be leaving ould leave when the driver brings
ried and Godwilling, he felt that he e to his grandson - his daughter's the States at the University of ng his postgraduate studies in law. at had come to him recently and he ter with Grandma before speaking hter who was presently residing in nis will not be that simple as I am has to agree, the parents have to to match – I need to clear several roung Neela has also to agree. She I need to tread carefully."

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Fading Traditions
After breakfast, the Grandi gate and told her, "Remem a few months you need to and no over excitement. Do tanned - remember no one W not eat anything from outsic the food you take and gener these will stand you in good good looking."
"I love you my darling!" she
"O Grandma - your head is f not get married because I war and you; so leave me alone. I' Please do not worry, about in saying, "I too love you very flying kiss
However, the Grandma's la: tanned did get into her psych go slow on games. "I mustre me. I must look good!"
 

215
na walked with Archana to the per all that I have told you. For be careful - no rigourous games not play in the hot sun and get rould like to marry a dark girl. Do le for you should take care about ally lead a simple gentle life. All stead and keep you healthy and
said kissing her on the forehead.
ull of silly marriage ideas! I will it to be always with both Grandpa ll look after you both and myself. ne," she said getting into the car I much Grandma,” giving her a
st statement of not getting too e and she decided that she would tain what my parents have given

Page 222
7.91%
"The date was 19 Jun, says young Dharmin
a heavy barrage
day. Kankesanturai, was unc sounds of firing and the ir frightened especially them go to town for work and th mid-year tests were on an The eldest son Dharman wa Biology Division, the secor grade and 8th grade respes a chubby little girl studyin
The lunch boxes for the fo the father who was a diab signs of the firingabating. and she was hoping thing

/ ിദ്ധy
e, a day that I remember very well," Li, several years later.
of bombing and shelling that June ler siege. Theair was resonant with mates of the house were terribly other because her husband had to 2 children had to go to school. The they had to sit the examination. S in the Advanced Level class in the d and third sons were in the 10th tively and the youngest Dharmini g in the 6th Grade.
ur children and the special box for tic, were ready but there were no was still very early in the morning would clear up soon.

Page 223
The Kilaali Crossing
Time passed by very slowly a waking up. Dharman seemed and had come to the kitchen the mother was getting the for all.
“Dharman This is the Secc drink water. Are you feeling Fortunately, our area is not would be safe for us even thou the mother said. She was w in this way and felt a littlen couldn't quite understand he
After some time, the firing the people in the neighbourh homes. The husbands had to schools.
The mother went round to the children were up. The young to go to school while Dharm.
"He seems very nervousandt to or rather what is troubling ruminating in her mind. "Be he has disappeared," she the
Dharmini was now ready tot Girls' School in Jaffna town. the books neatly packed she morning rides and enjoyed sit merely to see the country si whatever she saw was beauti
 

217
nd gradually the children started very preoccupied that morning for water a couple of times when Dreakfast and lunch packs ready
ond time that you are here to unwell or, are you frightened? in the line of fire and so things gh the soundis very unnerving," ondering why he was behaving ervous herself even though she er sons behaviour.
had considerably stopped and lood started moving out of their go to work and the children to
a bedrooms checking whether the er two boys were getting ready an had already left
ensed up. I wonder what he is up him the mother was repeatedly fore could speak to him again, ught to herself anxiously.
board the school bus to Wembaldi With the lunchboxinherbag and got into the bus. She loved these tingin different places in the bus de from different angles. To her ful and she lowed her homeland.

Page 224
218
No sooner had the bus reach school got into the bus and a take the children home. "To much offiring and bombing Things could get worse so, I Shanmugan (the driver) ple: use the main roads but the bi children are precious so ple: drivers from the different a she said and got down from
“Hurray! We will not be har children greatly thrilled tha was a little disappointed sin the tests were no problem ta did well in class.
While returning the older gi arguing with each other that over and that the Schools in camps. The students in th brewing and any moment fig become a powder keg.
“I may not have unde time, but I realized t Dharmini recollectin
Taking a circuitous route, only around twelve noon. TI
of them had had their lunch
Coming back home was a mothers were at the bus star them home. A number of far

Cultural Memoirs
ed the school, the Principal of the sked the driver to turn back and day seems to be abad day with so in the early hours of the morning. have decided to close the school. se take the children back. Do not ack alleys and drive carefully. The ase be careful. I am asking all the reas to take the children back," the bus.
ving any tests," said some of the tthey were going back. Dharmini ce she loved coming to school and D her as she studied carefully and
irls were excitedly discussing and ...there would be heavy fighting all ay close down to become refugee e bus realized that trouble was ghting could erupt. The north had
rstood all their arguments at that hat fighting was imminent," says g that day a few years later.
the bus reached Kankesantural he children were tired and some
while travelling back.
little more frightening. Some d to pickup the children hurrying nilies were closing their gates and

Page 225
The Kilaali Crossing
with bag and baggage werew The doors and windows of t atmosphere was tense.
Seeing this young Dharmini “ Amma! Why are the pe belongings," she asked. The while all of them were havir "It is rumoured that heavy fi these areas and the people in is a high security zone with K the people have decided tha and not get caught in the Cro and be away from this place ti When Appa comes we would place. I have packed your ba each one's bed. Lie down for a We could leave."
Once lunch was over, and the came out saying, “Amma I h attendit or otherwise I willb Cut. I am going for my class. I over," he said and was about "No Dharman. There Won't b are bad so you needn't go to S he argued with her and prom class was over, he stepped ou
The mother did feel very ner was up to. The "Iyakkam' the Advanced Level and Univers promising to train them and and that they should not w
 

219
alking away from the main roads. neir homes were barred and the
was perturbed and frightened. ople moving out with their : boys too had come home and ng their lunch, the mother said, ghting would be taking place in eed to move to safer areas. This ankesanturai in the centre and, t they will be moving out early ss-fire. We too need to evacuate ll things comeback to normalcy. move to Alaveddy to Periamma's .gs and your clothes are laid on little while and on Appa's return
children were resting, Dharman lave a Biology class and I must 2 punished and my marks will be 'll be back as soon as the class is Logo out, when the mother said, e any classes today since times chool this afternoon." However, sing to comeback no sooner the Lt.
Vous not knowing what her son group of Tigers, were recruiting ity boys and girls to join them teach them and look after them orry about anything. "Has he

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enrolled with the Iyakkar or two earlier, her niece, the University had joined telling her parents. Appal Iyakkam and that being th to be be near him! This thc mind and she was wonde
She had heard that the te: in some of the leading s( were actually recruiting closely with the Iyakkam were with the Iyakkam, be harassed and the child will not be recruited
These teachers - man ar were also responsible tot Advanced Level students the young girls and boys than their counterparts
was underground and th
the other children did ni
“Anna joined the II remembers Dharm do so? He was fon he was leaving th wondered deeply
It was much later that one of the twenty sev the Iyakkam that partir not inform the parents they would not have all
 

Cultural Memoirs
(," was her greatest worry. An year un engineering student Studying at che Iyakkam and left home without ently her boyfriend had joined the e reason, she too enrolled with them ught was at the back of the mother's ing what Dharman was up to.
chers in the Advanced Level classes hools in Jaffna were the ones who the children. They were working , the main reason being that if they iheir respective families would not ren would also be safe and hopefully
ld wife helped in various ways and each their respective subjects to the who had been recruited. In reality recruited were in a way better off who were left behind. The training ay were given comforts that perhaps bt have!
rakkam the day we left for Allaveddy," lini very clearlyl “Why did he have to of me and should have told me that 2 family. Why didn't he tell me?" she 2. urt.
he family learnt that Dharman was n boys and girls recruited to join ular day. It was natural that he did nor his siblings knowing well that wed him to join. The reason for his

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The Kilaali Crossing
nervousness was essentially wrongly, he felt convinced t and work for the liberation C He was aware that he was nc the rheumatic fever for whi and taking him for routine cl this was soon forgotten in a Iyakkam.
The father hadn't still return nowhere to be seen as time w becoming restless. Firing and children and little Dharmini both father and son had not that the family will not leav next morning.
The father returned around yet thankful that before he to get a transfer to Colombo particular date.
Since time was running ou Dharman had gone away to coming back, decided that th However, on second thought would stay behind just this following morning. Troupem or the Iyakkamalways take pla along even deserted streets o
"On Saturday, 20th of and three children - ancestral home,” rem deeply said that her Pe
 

221
this. In his thinking rightly or hat he had to join the Iyakkam of the Tamils. He went willingly. it returning home. Even though ch the mother was very caring heckups, was a little worrisome, ll the excitement of joining the
ed from Jaffna and Dharman was as passing by and the family was shelling kept on frightening the was extremely frightened. Since I returned, the mother decided e that evening but do so early
six in the evening, very tired left office that day he was able and had to report for duty on a
it, the mother realizing, that join the Iyakkam and was not ley should leave straight away. , the parents decided that they one night and move out the ovements whetherit is the army ace during the night and walking ir path ways may be dangerous.
June the family - mother father not fourt moved out of their
embers Dharmini nostalgically,
rianna was not with them.

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While getting ready early ne: intrigued with the clothes th her to wear. In the underskir in which pieces of jewels wer so that hopefully they would where ever they were going. that that was the only way th out. She had earlier hiddens in a deep pit in the inner coi be forcibly taken away eithe These pieces were to remai normalcy returns! She deci behind for the time Being, that no signs of anything be
“Will normalcy ever r ancestral home? Our Zone. Normalcy has and years have passe several years later.
Kankesanturai was a ghos However, since it was in the the area had to be protecte time, the area had to be take And thus it remained desert silence, now that the bomb. the people had fled the area
They were the last family to and palmyrah fences they si Kadduvan to Alaveddy. They barrier which seemed to hav finally they came to Periam

Cultural Memoirs
xt morning, Dharmini was a little lather mother had arranged for tlining there were many pockets e hidden and stitched in carefully pe able to take the pieces of jewels The mother had explained to her ley could take some of the jewels ome of the other pieces of jewels urtyard for fear that they would r by the army or by the Iyakkam. In hidden until such times that ded that she would leave these buried and covered carefully so ing hidden were revealed.
eturn and could we return to our home is within the High Security not still returned though years 2d," remembers young Dharmini
it city with hardly any people middle of the High Security Zone, 2d by the army but at the same nover in the Iyakkam's thinking ed during day time with an eerie ing and shelling had ceased and
leave and through the back alleys lowly trekked their way through avoided the main roads and the fe come under heavy attack. And ma's house in Allaveddy.

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The Kilaali Crossing
The days following the evac the Tamils in general and for mothers in particular. On one and shelling by the army while the fire, the Iyakkam was rec and University students into
the Tamils were between the
The families in generalled a v. stretch their resources to what time but the younger childr together. Alaveddy was comp; gradually started going back cycling even to Vembadi and band wagon.
"That was only for a sh and bitter fighting sta major towns were disple and temples which beca. Dharmini.
The mother was worried about was a rheumatic patient and t medical checkups. Armed with she went round to the camps at whether her son was there an checkups but to no avail. Sh daunted her and she kept goir up whether her son was there
Knowing that his mother woul down if he remains in Jaffna, D camp in Vavuniya. He felt ver his community and not go bac
 

223
lation, were difficult days for the parents especially for the ide was the relentless bombing on the other, besides returning ruiting young Advanced Level its fold. That was a time when levil and the deep blue sea!
Bry frugal life sincethey hadto tever was available for a longer en enjoyed themselves being aratively safe and the children Io school. Many children were little Dharmini too joined the
ort period. Hostilities broke out rted in full force. Families in iced and had to move to schools me refugee camps," remembers
her elderson knowing that he
hat he needed to have regular 1is picture and medical reports, ld to the Iyakka stations asking d that he needed the medical e drew a blank but nothing g to different places to check Or not,
somehow-or-other track him marman asked to be sent to the 7 strongly that he should help home. And he was sent there.

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After several futile attemptst gave up and decided that sh move on to Colombo. He nee to retain his job.
Things were changing rapic fighting was raging between
The army had strategically t A9 road, which meant that a closed to civilian traffic and til Crossing across a strip of de by nightfall manned by the I. point the boats take the pas coastline.
Amidst mounting loss of lif closed, the Iyakkam ensured an exclusive boat services who needed to come downs make the Crossing while tot business
While Crossing quite a few h and in one instance sixty f lagoon were killed by a serie the Sri Lankan Naval gunbo; passengers were travelling
they were fired upon in the
One could see that the risk across to the south were in no alternatives.

Cultural Memoirs
) trackdown the son, the mother must now help her husband to ded to go to Colombo if he were
ly within the peninsula. Bitter the army and the Iyakkam.
aken over Elephant Pass and the Il roads from the peninsula were le only alternative was the Kilaali p blue sea in small fishing boats yakkamyoungsters. From Kilaalli sengers across to the Pooneryn
re, heavy fighting and all paths that it would gain by operating at Kilaali point. Those civilians outh did so risking their lives to he Iyakkam it became a lucrative
ave died by falling into the water lve civilians crossing the Kilaal s of attacks launched on them by its. Many more were injured. The in a flotilla of several boats when glare of a spotlight.
taken by the civilians travelling leed grave. However, there were

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The Kilaali Crossing
"Appa leaves for Color reminisces Dharminiw he would be safe or wh him. "O God! do keep a together," she prayed
The Kilaali Crossing was quite to come to Ariyakulam in Jaffi the Crossing and for the ride minivans, bicycles or motor Lagoon along the Pooneryn F
The buses, tractors and moto point known as Kembadi. Thi infested with reptiles and ins
The passengers get down and Jaffna. Except for the passeng and extremely quiet and the a firing and shelling from a di and Omanthai army camps.
The Kilaali paathai was part that were used to cross this fishing vallams - boats. It was travelled but one had to do it
The boat service was run by late afternoon arrangements the passengers in order of six there were only seven boats. taken in this orderly fashiont up with no extra room space into the sea, the people sit cl in front of each seat.
 

225
nbo taking the Kilaalli Crossing," rith a shudder wondering whether lether anything would happen to lear Appa safe till we all get back fervently.
2 a complicated process. One had na town by bus, buy the ticketfor to the Kilaali point in a tractor, bikes. The route is through the Paadhai.
rbikes bring the passengers to a Isis the Periya Veli, open spaces sectS.
the buses and tractors return to sers, the place becomes deserted tmosphere tense. One could hear stance, perhaps from Vavuniya
of the deep ocean and the boats strip of water, were ordinary at one's own risk that each one if one needed to go to the south.
the Iyakkam youth wing and by would begin. They would seat teen persons per boat and in all By nightfall, the passengers are o the boats. Each boat gets filled 2 so that when it starts moving Osely, holding the posts planted

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The flotilla of boats leaves : there is pin drop silence ex lashing on the boats and the the boats depends on the cu in a strong current and happ end of that passenger – no no way that he could be res. here and there are avoided grounded. The boats do not but go Zig Zagging and take other shore along the Poon
The flotilla that the fath Kandaavalai abandoned padi line. The passengers were sp left. Apparently this area is
nor the Iyakkam is there a for the passengers. "Each of seems to be the order of the ( own belongings starts walki plinth of the abandoned pa very muddy and slippery an and fields. Each one looks at to one another the passeng other in total silence.
The trek is long and tedic where the checking is inten is over, the passengers Col their mode of transport eit tractors to Vavuniya from the Yaal Devi train. The jou completely fagged out whi

Cultural Memoirs
|round seven in the evening and cept for the waves in the ocean drone of the motor. The safety of rrents and if one is rocked about ens to fall off the boat, that is the one goes to his aid since there is cued. The sand mounds collected by the flotilla for fear of being go straight across as the birdflies s two to three hours to reach the Bryn coastline.
er travelled in docked at the dy fields along the Pooneryn coast eedily disembarked and the boats no man's land - neither the army nd the eerie silence is unnerving ne for himself and God for us all," lay, as each passenger carrying his ng briskly along the varambu-the ddy fields. The pathway could be d takes one through forest tracks ter himself and without speaking }rs hurriedly walk one behind the
pus to Omanthai an army point se andrigourous! Once thathassle ne out of the camp and arrange her in minivans, buses, cycles or where they travel to the south by rney was long and the father was an he reached his cousin's home

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The Kilaali Crossing
in Slave Island breathing as home safely at last!
The following day at office w He had not kept to the sche left the Jaffna office and hac later. He tried to explain wh explanation to the Colombo understand the situation that of the Kilaali crossing was too
"Appa on his first day for coming late to ta, demoted and lost six 1 as she recaps the past
Fortunately for him, a frienc the authorities and said that him, they should continue to months of his salary could b demoted because things were accepted. However, over the 1 weak and missed his family a
Having received information that the father was ill, the m children too had to leave. returning to their home in KF residents of the area.
"We needed a pass to Allaveddy,” remember
Now since the entire family pass to leave Jaffna. And this
 

227
gh of relief that he had reached
as a little difficult for the father. dule that he was given when he | come to Colombo several days y he was late but no amount of
officials worked. They did not prevailed in Jaffna and the story baffling for them to be eventrue!
of workin Colombo was penalized ke up his new position. He was month's salaryl" says Dharmini, events a few years later.
took up his case and spoke to since they had kept the place for keep him in office but that a few e cut and that he should not be 2 beyond one's control. This was months he had grown feeble and
great deal.
brought by returning passengers other decided that she and the There were no possibilities of S. It was out of bounds for even
leave since we were all leaving s Dharmini.
was leaving they had to have a bass had to be obtained from the

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Iyakkam. This meant an "A consisting of a gold coin, so in the home and money.
The family also understood the family was in the Iyakk hassle. Butthe motherprete and paid up all the dues. Fo children was over 18 years ( to be given to the Iyakkam
They were free to traveland bag and baggage came to Al Hiring two motor bikes anc travelled to Eludhunattuv, the father was taken, was where they had to walk the
Both the mother and daug stitched for the travel with t that these could be brought at Kilaali point, was tired an children found things diffic and whatever was sold was the one who was badly affe sans milk and Sugar!
“I couldn't underst milk and sugar wal beyond and I worried Dharmini rather sa
Each of them sat next to sixteen and when the boat to the make shift pier whe

Cultural Memoirs
daimaanam" a payment of sorts ne pieces of jewels, articles used
that if any one of the members of am, they needn't go through any Ending not to know this ignored it tunately, since none of the three fage, they did not ask for a child - "aalpinai.”
the mother and her three children iyakulam from Allaveddy by bus. with tickets in their hands they aal which unlike Kembadi where petter and finally reached Kilaali
last strip.
hter wore the special underwear he jewels in the various pockets so with them. The family on arriving d being used to some comfort, the ult. They were hungry and thirsty substandard. Young Dharmini was cted unable to drink the plain tea
and that having a cup of tea with not possible in this back of the Amma umnecessarily,” remembers lly for being so inconsideratel
ach other in the tent in rows of came, the passengers were taken e the boats lay in anchor. All the

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The Kilaali Crossing
passengers were seated but on leave as usual around seven. leave; but the boats did not lea in charge why they were not sharp. "The boats leave only moves otherwise, You sit still as he walked away arrogantly
Suddenly there was a slight vehicles was seen coming tow boys standing at attention. Ap into the special boat, the signa at last.
Little did the mother and childr were none other than Dharmar taken to Vavuniya in this conv his mother and siblings. The hush!" and the flotilla left in a so tense that no one noticed a
Advanced Level or University travel business. As the flotill fervently that they should re no incidents on the way. The w danger and uncertainties.
The passengers were told that may often streakthesky and th as the engines are switched of
"Do not stand up or ev will rock the boat and of falling into the sea remembers with a shud
 

229
that occasion, the boats did not he passengers were anxious to re. An elderly man asked the boy leaving and the reply was very when I give the signal. Nothing in your place," were his words
commotion and a convoy of ards the flotilla with the Iyakka ersonality or two were whisked il was given and the flotilla left
en realize that the personalities 1 and his cousin who were being oy. Nordid Dharman recognize
whole movement was "hush! hurry and the atmosphere was nything.
| students manned the whole a set sail, the mother prayed ach the other end safelly with hole journey was fraught with
while travelling, search lights at they should bend downwards fand all movements stopped.
in move, because such motions the passengers are in danger " were words that Dharmini der.

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The flotilla of boats dockedar special passenger was whiske others stepped out of the bc Some of the elderly passenge boat and placed on the sands we were later told that they si the use of their limbs and by to the Omanthai point. Alth along the abandoned paddy fi “Each for himself and God fo long journey across the Kilaa
At Omanthai army camp the c in her wisdom the mother h underwear and her under sk the jewels. Little Dharmini more-or-less walk out witho jewels she was carrying were mother was carrying
After being checked, the fam Vavuniya and finally reache
In Colombo, the family rent quietly by themselves. The
family was back and was imp going back to office. The ch and were continuing their
boys had to repeat the last c retained her class and was a
In Colombo, strangely, the f. speak of Dharman and that t children together with the

Cultural Memoirs
pund three in the morning. The first away in a vehicle and the at eerily and with trepidation. rs were bodily lifted out of the They were unable to move and ruggle and little by little regain early morning are able to walk 2 passengers had to walk across elds to Omanthai. The principle, rus all," prevailed through the li crossing and to this point
hecking was heavy. Fortunately, ad more pockets in Dharmini's cirts where she had stitched in peing a small child was able to ut being seriously checked. The safe! And so were those that the
lily hired a vehicle and came to
Colombo.
ed a small apartment and lived father was now happy that his roving in health and had started ldren were admitted to schools tudies accordingly. In fact the ass each was in while Dharmin mitted to the 7th Grade.
mily decided that no one should he family consisted of only three father and mother. "Let's not

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The Kilaali Crossing
discuss anything with the nei little,” were the mother’s wou
Perhaps this decision was questioning by security force
However, the mother was st would come back one day to going to the various camps in would also carry some dry ral among the refugees. Thoughs happy that she was able to he food and clothing.
Years later the family came t ones Dharman and his cousil respective degrees and were i perhaps had more facilities th had. Apparently, Indian Univ senior Iyakka leaders helped th who wished to continue with
underground in comfortables an Engineer and Dharman be by any University standards.
It is said that in 1997, in the bat army consisted of a women's Major who led the troupe. Th the winning brigade consisting up by the army hiding in the successfully killed all seven w
Dharman was part of the med Unfortunately he was hit by of coma. Fortunately for him ;
 

231
ghbours Be polite and say very “ds of caution.
taken to avert any possible
S.
ill hopeful that the eldest son the family. She still insisted on the Vanni looking for him. She ions and clothing to distribute he did not find her son, she was 2lp a few refugees at least with
o know that both these young n, were able to complete their n reality very well looked after, han the others would ever have ersity teachers brought by the he studies of the Iyakka students their studies. The schools were urroundings. The niece became came a doctor - fully qualified
itle for Thandikulam the Iyakka brigade and the niece was the ley captured Thandikulam but of seven women were rounded forest in a strategic action and OT1621
ical team sent to Thandikulam. shells and left to die in a state young family took charge and

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brought him to their homei that supported the Iyakkag injured personnel of the lya
The eldest daughter in this fa young Dharman and gradua state and back to health. He consciousness, he gave his F and asked her to convey his
When the family heard ab the mother decided that si Mulliyavalai with the thoug Colombo. She came to the hic time in so many years she me that her son was badly affec medical treatment.
“Amma had a decisi sad moments aheadf where she was to take
Could she bring him to Col. do I take him?" was her prol take him in the illegal boat that the young man was inji
With difficulties, she mana he so badly needed in Chet to remove the shell pieces body except the one at the dangerous to operate," was that he should live with it a

Cultural Memoirs
in Mulliyavalai. This was a family roup and was able to look after kkam.
mily spenther time looking after lly brought him out of the coma was badly injured. As he regained 'eriamma's address in Allaveddy message to his mother.
out Dharman from Allaveddy, he would come immediately to ht of bringing him back home to me of the family and for the first 'ther son Dharman. She could see sted by the war. He badly needed
on to make - perhaps there were or them yet, she needed to decide : him," were Dharmini's thoughts.
ombo? No! she couldn't. "Where plem. She decided that she would Service to India saying if need be ured in action.
ged to get the medical attention nai. He had to undergo surgery lodged in various parts of the base of the neck. "This would be the opinion and it was decided s long as possible.

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The Kilaali Crossing
Several months had passed b from the mother. She had le from Allaveddy and Dharmi was in charge of the home.
Several months later one lat retiring for the night, Dharn the door bell -two short anc the door in the same mannel twenty years and saying, "A ranto open the door. "Don't curtly preventing her from Anna. I'll open the door," sh
And there they were was a wonderful sur you. O Lord for bringi these years," said D. door gently behind he
 

233
y and no messages were received ft suddenly on hearing the news ni now a grown up young woman
e night, when the household was nini recognized a distinct beat in one long followed by the tap on r. She was hearing it after almost nna is here. This is his beat,” she - open the door,” said the father opening the door. "Oh no! this is e said and opened the door.
-Amma, Anna and his bride. It orise for all. “Thank you! Thank ing back my Anna safelly after all 1armini softly as she closed the er hopefully to all their miseries.

Page 240
ീ// 9
. u%a. seated on the ster
thinking of the time when v a few days after the tsunam the temple but left the tem we had returned to do the thousands of devotees who the devastated families to d ones. That was a herculean women's organization had A completely devastated cc energy and the where with rites that we Hindus perfor in its forward journey thro
116 Vatraapalai is a town in th
Province of Sri Lanka 117 The cycle of births and deat

//r ീഗ്ഗ
ps leading to the old temple and we had come to Vatraapalai'just i waves lashed on the environs of ble untouched. And a month later thithi puja, the last rites for the had died in the tidal wave enabling o the pujas for their near and dear task but we were happy that our come forward to do these rites. mmunity wouldn't have had the |al to do these last rites. The last m help the soul to move onwards ugh samsara."7
: District of Mullaitivu in the Norther
1S

Page 241
Kannagi Narrates her Story
The Vatraapalai Kannagi Amma tall once again, during the he war as it did during the Wrath ( this Kannagi'. Amman's Grace to be the deity of myths, myst thoughts.
Today was the final day of t Temple where several hundre had congregated to prepare t and receive blessings from H. temple ceremonies, a helicopt flowers on the temple and th the sky. The temple bell peeled and the whole place resounde( “Arohara! Arohara!” echoed th uninterruptedly, reverberating, the mantram “Aum! Alum!” all a
The Temple and its vicinity was morning in 2010, a year after the devotees had come in a spirit of our hearts to see so many dev their sweet pongal as prasada hungering for security and pe: and destruction.
To me the puja on that day and at the same time an invoc reconciliation. While the man
118 Kannagi Amman is the presiding
'amman' meaning mother 119 Prasadam — an offering made at til

235
an Temple in Mullaitivu stood ight of the last phase of the of the Tsunami tidal wavel “Is ? Perhaps it is! She is believed eries and miracles," were my
he annual festivities of the ds of thousands of devotees he pongal prasadam', offer ær. And at the height of the er hovering above, showered e devotees - blessings from as the clock struck the hour with spirituality as the call rough. The bell kept ringing deep and sonorous, spreading around.
unusually packed on that May : dark days of the conflict. The thanksgiving and it warmed otees preparing and offering n to Amman. All of us were ace after thirty years of war
was a memorial to the war cation for abiding peace and trams cascaded, the flowers
deity of the Vatraapalai Temple -
he temple

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showered on the presiding de was done, "Arohara' reverbe and Kannagi Amman accepte every devotee.
In Her eyes, all of us belong to race whether Sinhala or Tami as Sri Lankans on Her Temple reconciliation.
S S S S S S S S S S S LS LL LS LS S LS S L L S L LSS S S S S
We are now back in Mulla Thousands of pilgrims both T sakkarai pongal — sweetened Goddess and we believe that Sh from each of us.
From late last evening and 1 being prepared, offerings wel pujas were over and it was all sat on the steps of the temple suddenly felt that someone w left hand on my shoulder. I ge surprise I saw a beautiful you hair hanging loosely over he the silambu, in her hand.
Seeing her and the silambut you?" and stopped as a thou "You seem to have stepped Tamil epic Silapadhikaram'
120 Silapadhikaram is one of the fi

Cultural Memoirs
ity the Amman, and the aarathi rated through the atmosphere d the prasadam from each and
the same great race, the human I. And on this occasion we stood threshold asking for peace and
itivu for the annual festival. 'amil and Sinhala come to offer milk rice - as prasadam to the le Herself receives the prasadam
ate into the night, pongal was re made, the morning and noon | quiet, serene and peaceful as e. I must have dozed off when as standing beside me with her :ntly opened my eyes and to my [ng Woman with long tresses of r shoulder carrying an anklet
hat she held, I asked, "Who are ght flashed through my mind out of a page from the ancient written by the ascetic prince
ve Tamil epics of the Sangam age

Page 243
Kannagi Narrates her Story
Illango. Why you are indee recognizing the celebrated h
“Yes I am Kannagi, the pur This is my 'silambu’ the ankl preparing herself to sit beside room for her.
"Let me tell you my story," s fascinating stories depicting pristine purity and faithfuln crime that did not take place - this anklet.
"Despite my purity and cl forsook me and chose to liv whose enchanting beauty a him completely. Manimekha became a Buddhist nun and ha as you may know, situated North of Sri Lanka.
"However, Kovalan after losin me impoverished. We decide and go to the city of Madura only valuable piece of jewelle taking the pair of anklets for to a goldsmith togetit valued and fit to be worn only by the piece of ornament and being I had inherited the pair aspar to me.
"The goldsmith had earlier st which was sent for repairs an
 

237
:d Kannagi," I exclaimed softly eroine of the epic.
e and faithful wife of Kovalan. et," came the answer as she was me. And I moved slightly making
《【*
he began. "It is one cf the most my life - the life of a woman of ess but punished unjustly for a 2. It is the story of the 'Silambu'
nastity, my husband Kovalan ve with Mathavi, a nautch girl nd artistic excellence enslaved lai was their daughter who later ad come to Nagadeepa, Nainativu in the Tamil homelands of the
ghis wealth finally camebackto d that we would start life afresh i to sell my pair of anklets, the 'ry that remained. When he was sale in the market, he showed it He had said that it was beautiful 2 Queen. The silambu was a rare the daughter of a rich merchant tofthe ancestral property given
olen the queen's pair of anklets d now seeing a pair of anklets in

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Kovalan's hands decided that that he has seen the queen' He did so and unfortunately, the matter fully, merely saic bring the anklet,' instead of and the anklet!"
"On hearing that Kovalan was I danced in fury! I walked
King and asked for justice fi innocent husband. I threw
across the room saying that the queen's anklets contain the rubies spilt over the flo My husband is not a thief,"
"Having heard my words, th a just and celebrated rulero mistake and unable to beart out, fell down dead. His qui herself, seeing her husband
"I left the Court and walkin I cursed the entire city and threw it across and set the ca ablaze. Seeing me in this presiding deity of Madurai tragedy is due to your past haunt you relentlessly."
121 கோன்றுச் சிலம்பு கொணர்க
காவலன் ஏவ்
122 Madurai is the sacred city of ஊழ்வினை உருத்துவந்துாட்டு

Cultural Memoirs
he would tell the royal household s anklet in the hands of a thief. , the king without inquiring into li, “Kondru vaa”121 — “kill him and saying "Kondu vaa” bring him
putto death, I cried and rebelled. into the Court of the Pandyan or the wrongful execution of my the anklet seized from Kovalan my anklet contains rubies, while pearls. The anklet split open and or proving Kovalan's innocence (yelled.
e Pandyan King Nedun Cheliyan, f his Kingdom, realized his grave he wrong judgment he had meted leen a woman of great chastity fallen, died instantly.
g along the streets of Madurai,
in a frenzy tore my breast and pital city of the Pandyan Kingdom renzy, Goddess Meenakshi, the appeared before me saying, "this
karma which has come back to
ஈங்கெனக்
Goddess Meenakshi in South India.-
b

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Kannagi Narrates her Story
"And now I am Kovalan's w reason."
"The Chera King Sengutt immortalized me in a grand worship of Pattini Devi. The K invited to the ceremony, was sacred “Silambu” which hebr towards my husband and my the position of an "Amman" Tamil Nadu and Lanka.”
"This is my story as told in
Silapathikaram written by pc I am also referred to histor Rajavaliya and Rajaratnakara
“However, my story doesn’t qui but, goes back to the ancient and Purananooru texts there could say that the poet Ilan Silapathikaram except that in been associated with Kali and in this story, the poet has por
"The Sinhala Buddhist of you and there are several litera Kathaava being one. Howevel here in Vatraapalai, Hindus thousands to worship me thi periods, the Buddhists who car Sinhala and Tamil communitie essence one community ands
S SS SS SS SS SS SS SS SS SS SS SS SS SS SS SS SS SS SS SS SS SS S
 

239
ridow - being widowed for no
uvan on hearing the story, ceremony and introduced the ing of Lanka Gajabahu who was presented with my emblem, the Ought back to Lanka. My fidelity fight for justice elevated me to - a powerful Goddess both in
the celebrated epic poem, the bet Ilango Adigal, a Jain monik. "ically in the ancient Sinhala ya texts in Lanka.”
tebegin with the Silapathikaram : Sangam age. In the Nattrinai are references to me and one go perfected my story in the those earlier references I have Kottravai - female deities while trayed me as a human being."
country worship me as Pattini lry works on me, the Pattini ", since my worship had begun and Buddhists have come in S year. And during the earlier ne, were Tamils of this area. The sthough estranged today are in lould live peacefully together."

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The story continues -
“After setting the city of Madu and agitated and decided tol visiting several places and fina (tenth residence) which is pr where there is the eternal flow of grace that I shower on one
"In Lanka, I did find a mome Nandhikadal. I came disguise couple of young cow herds gr. fields. I told them that I wa prepared pongal - milk rice, leaf. As dusk was fast appro; lamp. Since there was no oilf the water from Theerthakara the Nandhikadal. The water lit and to their amazementitl whole place."
"Saying that I'll come here ev receive their pongal and bles as you know the celebrations the lamp is lit with saltwaterp and I am here to receive the F every one."
"Continuing the tradition th herds, the initial ceremoni begin in the neighbouring M Vinayagar Temple's Ammar blessings in keeping with F

Cultural Memoirs
urai in flames, I became restless eave the place. I came to Lanka lly came here to Paththam Palai 'esently known as Vatraapalai, 7 of water. It is indeed the spring
and all.
nt of quiet by the banks of the ed as an old woman and met a azing their animals in the grass s hungry and the young boys and served it on a small lotus aching I asked them to light a or the lamp I asked them to use i at Chilawattai on the shores of was brought and the lamp was burnt brilliantly lighting up the
ery Mayon Waikasi Nakshtrato is each one, I disappeared. And are observed to this day in May ortraying my miraculous power 'ongal prasadam from each and
lat was begun by the two como es of the annual celebrations alliayavalai village at the Kaata mandapam seeking first His indu traditions and later my

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Kannagi Narrates her Story
blessings. Water from the Nan eduththal' at Theerthakarai, i made of metal - "Vengalam' w white piece of cloth."
"This ritual of "theertham portrays my spiritual powers c phenomenon of collecting sea
"Several rituals are associated Special pujas are offered to th the devotees who have gathe leave amidst nagaswara music eduththal” the collection of wat and singing bhajans."
"The special vessel is carrie accompanied by two other me the Nandikadal together with t water carrying this vessel on hi water level reaches his mouth wave - the flush of water, the second flush the vessel is filled to the Temple. He does not wait vessel may not be filled in thes vessel gets filled with the seco
"An earthen lamp is placed o was collected by the two other brought together with the the cotton threads dipped in ghee, lamp filled with water from the prayers and nagaswara music.
123 தீர்த்தம் எடுத்தல்
 

241.
dikadal is collected "theertham in a vessel - "theertha kudam' rith the mouth covered with a
2duththal'123 is unusual and onveying to the world the rare water to light the lamp."
with the collection of water. e theertha kudam and finally red at the Vinayagar Temple and drum beats for "theertam zer, to the Nandikadalchanting
}d by a temple trustee who mbers, walks to the shores of he devotees. He steps into the is shoulder and walks until the 1. Traditionally with the first vessel is cleaned and with the with water and brought back t for the third wave even if the econd instance. Generally the 1d wave itself."
n a bed of white sand which devotees from the shore and ertha kudam. Wicks made of are placed in the centre of the sacred kudam and is lit amidst The flames flicker brightly for

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twenty four hours. The wat to keep the lamp burning cc
"All those who attend the P Vaikasi - mid May to mid J the lighting of the lamp wit
"Could you explain how this explanation? No! It is inexp further build the mystic au and has helped it to survive in instilling hope in the hea deliver the justice for which
"The pujas at the Vinayag continue for seven days and changes and the devotees Temple amidst the drum b. the singing of religious son,
"The whole day is spent Kumban which is ceremon reside in it, receive the pong the devotees. It is in the eve with my first visit to this pla the hearth is prepared anc the pongal which is simple prepared, light the lamp wit and make the offerings to r
"The devotees follow this the Temple gardens for the

Cultural Memoirs
'r is added as and when required intinuously."
ongal festivities in the month of une –.know this story especially a salt water!'
happens? Could science give an licable. However, it has helped to ra which surrounds the Temple the test of time. It has succeeded rts of the followers that I would 1 they pray."
gar Temple Amman mandapam on the eighth morning, the venue come to the Vatraapalai Amman eats of the nagaswara music and gs, bhajans and chants."
in offering special pujas to the ally adorned and I am invoked to althat is to be prepared and bless ning at dusk, the time coinciding ce where I met the cowherds, that
the Temple authorities prepare just as the young cowherds had the water from the theerthakara
y
Te.
nd start preparing the pongal in offerings. The whole place comes

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Kannagi Narrates her Story
alive through the night with that each devotee builds to
"You and I are now seated Vatraapalai Amman Temple was built on the exact spot w came over for the first time. to build this temple in my water from the Theerthakar festivities every May and saic prasadam directly from the and fervently followed each
"And the Temple has been b of the Nandhikadal carrying lamp during the annual fest worship the colourful gopul beautiful Temple is dedicate
“The Temple is generally qui corridors around the sanctu veethy." A number of paint narratives of the deities."
"In one of the outer buildings story - my arrival in Lanka. A in Tamil as “Karna Parampar, after visiting tensites finally my anger was completely as when I met the shepherd bo
"And, as I requested, to this the temple fall in the month
 

243
the lighting of each special hearth prepare the Sweet pongal."
on the steps of the celebrated - ancient and historical which There I met the cow herds when I In fact, I had asked the villagers name, light the lamp with the ai, celebrate annually the Pongal that I would come to receive the devotees. And this is religiously year."
built picturesquely on the banks the sacred water that lights the ival. From afar itself, one could Iram, the tower. This quaint yet d to Me."
tet inside as one walks along the m — the inner path way, the “Ul tings on the wall depict Hindu
of the Temple, you could read my According to the legend-known ai' I had come from Madurai and ame to restat Vatraapalaiwhere Suaged. I found a sense of peace
gy
S.
day the annual celebrations in of Vaikasi coinciding with the

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Vesak festivities. For two we life beautifying and spiritua with hundreds of thousandso pongal to offer me."
"This year I am here with yo that you prepared last night and the prasaadam is offered especially to those who inter to Kathirgamam as I did whe receiving the prasadam, we a symbolize my departure, the the night which means that yaatra."
Having said all this, she stopp in a more deliberate tone, an Kannagi to the Tamil Hi Buddhists and my story is communities, though ironic a shared deity and that bot indicates the extent to whic small island have become estr since both have to live in the
“However, I strongly feel tha and tradition that could brin I can see that amongst those hands clasped in prayer at mothers and wives of the so or are missing in action fro) justice."

Cultural Memoirs
iks the entire Temple comes to lizing the whole environment fdevotees preparing sweetened
u, and I did receive the pongal for me. Once the pongal is over to me, it is given to the devotees dongoing on the paadayaatra n I first came to Vatraapalai. On ll leave for Kathirgamam and to Temple main door is closed for we have all gone on the paada
ped for a moment and continued "Now! Listen to me carefully. I indus and Pattini to the Sinhala interesting linking both the ally neither are aware that I am h venerate me. This ignorance h the two communities on your anged. This needs to be corrected ! island together and in amity."
tit would be this shared history g the two communities together. who flock towards me with their e the many Tamil and Sinhala diers of both sides who had died 1 the bloody conflict, asking for

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Kannagi Narrates her Story
"When they come to me, they of those who had lost their love Perhaps the rest of Sri Lankaise those who lost their loved one are not sure of the fate of their
"Thus, I stand for the defence of all people."
"Sri Lanka, is just emerging fro which has created untold suff property. As Kannagi or Pattini, and harmony as I reflect the sha the Tamils and Sinhalese. I am identify with and turn to, in suffering. Together all would wo of the larger community of Sri I
Her voice gradually faded away and saw her disappearing into t of beauty and grace blending in
Her story was indeed a story o wrongful execution of Kovalana and strength to the many Tamila have been deprived of a family
She had spoken her words and sh tread in my reconciliation wo of the country. Kannagi's apoth relevant to the Hindus since in we venerate the Lord as Shakti one who is closest to us is the r
 

245
give voice to the sentiments dones in the communal fray. njoying the fruits of peace but cannot easily forget as they missing ones."
of social justice and equality
m three decades of civil war, erings and loss of lives and I should be a symbol of hope ared history and traditions of the goddess that they should their moments of grief and Irship and continue to be part Lankans.”
y. I awoke from my slumber he temple. She was a picture to One.
f one seeking justice for the nd should be a symbol of hope ind Sinhala war widows - who ife for no fault of theirs.
own me the path that I should k in the war torn districts leosis into a goddess is very Hindu traditions of worship, , the Supreme Mother - the nother and it is natural that

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We turn to Her for sucCour. comes naturally to us.
We had come from Colom pongal festivities and offer Her blessings, sit at Her fee leave for Colombo.
Mullaitivu was the battle the conflict. The untold Su damages to life and propert that particular day when we peacefulness of the area an eternal in the human breas normalicy to Mullaitivu givin The fields abandoned during plots of green paddy fields seeming to merge with the
We were happy to see that where the people displace to their homes. It was brea Waddwakal Causeway whe to Pudhukudirippu. As we tranquility resonating fron that it was across this cause civilians Crossed over to sa
We drove through jungle tr here and there interspersed may have been part of th Vanniyars who ruled the a the area an agricultural be

Cultural Memoirs
The worship of Kannagi Amman
po to participate in the annual it to Kannagi Amman, pray for st and after the puja we were to
ground in the last encounter of fferings of the people, the vast y are beyond reckoning. Yet, on were driving back I felt the quiet d the sense of hope that springs t. This seems to be bringing back ng back a simplistic beauty to her. g the conflict were now neatly laid spreading far into the distance blue sky.
life was returning to Mullaitivu i by the conflict were returning thtaking as we drove across the 'e the Nandhikadal meets the sea Vere passing by we felt a sense of I the surroundings remembering way that over hundred thousand ety an year ago!
acts with road settlements dotted with waterways. These waterways e ponds that were built by the ea several centuries ago making t.

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Kannagi Narrates her Story
And as I was driving and pi painting that I intend to d realized that the colours gre signify what the emerging la represents - something new indeed a new beginning wh fields, the sky itself changi shade as the sun was setting, against the vibrant colours of of the turquoise blue-greenw and flow of the ocean and th an overarching mystical sky. the breathtaking beauty of til
The story of Kannagi and the coming back to us. We needt themselves and in this atten could offer succour to the Kannagi was a Sorrowing wo and resilient – a symbol of hic
We now clearly see that He unfair execution of her husb these Women who have lost t or missing in action.
As I sat on the steps of the felt invigorated — “Did Kan and through the story, tell in reconciliation work?"
It was incredible! Unbelievab
 

247
cturing in my mind a would be O when I return to Colombo, I en, blue, red, yellow and orange indscape of Mullaitivu presently after the horrors of war. This is ere the newly laid green paddy 1g gradually to a warm copper the reflection of the orange hues the Gopuram, the perennial flow aters of the Nandhikadal, the ebb eyellow sands of the beach with are hues that seem to resonate ne changing landscape.
many thousands of widows kept o help them to build a future for pt, we felt that Kannagi Amman unfortunate widows. Although man herself, yet she was strong pe to these many widows.
r story, seeking justice for the and strikes a resonant chord in 1eir own dear ones - either dead
temple listening to Her story I nagi Herself tell me her story le the path I should take in my
le!

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(ീ// - .9//), ')/,
V. feeling rather
rocking myself in the rocl feeling that Pujya Gurudev to Sidhabaari." Hemust hav and was helping to bring myself to see whether I was Pujya Guruji's email sayin, in Sidhabaari came "Am I asking myself. All this was
Years ago when Gurudev
to Sidhabaari. After our next assignment, we hope this sacred pilgrimage. W Delhi by car to Pathankot through Pathankot was p that as we drive from Pa
124 The revered Teacher - Swa
 

'%/ ve/av/ // /e /C/ ീഗ്ഗ
dejected one afternoon and was cing chair when I had the lovely '' was beckoning me saying, "Come efelt all my sadness and loneliness me to his abode. I was pinching awake when to my greater surprise that it would be lovely to see me dreaming or am I awake," I kept too good to be true.
lad come to Manila he invited us osting in Manila and before our ully decided that we would go on ! planned carefully our trip from in Punjab because to us travelling rt of the pilgrimage. Our plan was hankot, we would feel Gurudev's
ni Chinmayananadaji

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Sidhabaari - An Ashram nestling in the Hi
presence through out the d the road would be the disci. this pilgrimage. Andas the se along the winding roads int this to us would be like "trav lows of the mind in which th friend Anjali would say.
The search for Sidhabaari
earnest seeker. And to us this to our earlier trips to the sacr in the deep south of Sri Lank would walk up while the old the sacred part of the pilgri keep singing songs of Lord M
Our aim was to apply this Sidhabaari - the journey to However, that was not to be us to take any risks traveling
It was only years later that Sidhabaari and that to, to do meant to be this way. Howe journey and its essence woul on entering the ashram, If sacred vibrations pulsatingev satisfying and complete.
Meeting Pujya Guruji on the unexpected yet lovely surpri each one of us feels that we a lovely was the satsang we ha
125 Kataragama
 

malayan Range. 249
rive. The trees on either side of lined path in the early stages of tenery changes we start climbing o the hilly areas of Sidhabaariersing through the highs and the e lows are on the way up," as my
is reflected in the heart of the drive up would have been similar edsylvan shrine of Kataragama' a where for the last ten miles we er pilgrims go by cart. This was Image. While walking we would Murugan.
| very modus in our travel to be contemplative and symbolic. 2 because Gurudev did not want
through war torn Punjab.
I was given the chance to go to it alone, by air - perhaps it was ver, I felt that the spirit of the d be lost in traveling by air! Yet alt Gurudev's presence and the erywhere. This made my journey
way in the Delhi ashram was an se. He endears himselfto alland 'e indeed very special. And more d with him late into the night

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from Vedanta to Cricket and the abstruse into the munda presence of Swami Nikhilana Gurupriyananda and Uman prelude to my pilgrimage.
Staying at the ashram in S me; however, sharing the rc sannyasinis Swamini Nishta was satsang all the time. Sev had given up a lucrative me Gurudev's callto Serve huma with Gurudev and now work into her medical work. We night more often in the co renunciates. They loved he bidding. It was she who told mirrors an inward journey of these words keep ringing in r prompting me to recapitula
Amidst the foothills of the H ashram where everything peaceful and calm.
Daily I would wake up early having taken a hot waterbal go to Gurudev's Samadhi fa two persons, there were ve Samadhi. This was perfect of peace and divinity sittin, Shrine - a very special ritua day.

Cultural Memoirs
from devotion to jnana weaving ne. We were also blessed with the ndaji and Swaminis Vimalananda, anda - abeautiful and inspiring
idhabaari was very special for on with one of the more senior nandaji, was more of ablessing. It eral decades ago Swamini Amma dical practice in Delhi to answer nity. She just left everything to be s with Gurujibringing spirituality would sit talking late into the impany of the newly graduated r and would be there to do her me that my journey to Sidhabaari thought and contemplation. And ny ears long after I left Sidhabaari te my experience.
imalayan range is the Sidhabaari to me was perfect. I felt very
in the morning around 3.30 and hand clad in warm attire I would r meditation. Except for one or y few people at that time in the und ideal for I found the essence gby my Gurudev in his Samadhi that I would cherish to my dying

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Sidhabaari — An Ashram nestling in the Hir
As I sit in this Shrine, the b appears in my mind - a long on the forehead and a sacred This image since our Manila p on my mind. It is the grande us, an awakening to our pot lovingly devoted in bringin consciousness which is the fi to face life fearlessly.
Being with him in his Shrir emotional moment for mean make a commitment and seek I felt that being in his presenc I was able to draw his blessin
Memories of our first encou would remember our little so at his feetand me slightly awa for giving us this wonderful
I was also remembering an driving up to the lecture halla to bhiksha at our place. It wa that Swamiji would come too to invite him. Let's go for th we've already had the opport to his lecture."
Low and behold, as the Sru through the prayer hall and t begin, Swamiji seemed to be suddenly said, "Tell the Durai for bhiksha." Could I have as
 

malayan Range. 251
espectacled visage of Gurudev, flowing beard, prominent tilak "million dollar' smile on his lips losting has been indelibly etched ur of this vision that created in ential divinity and his life was g this about through spiritual orce which can help individuals
he in the first instance was an d subconsciously I was trying to his blessings. As the days passed, erecharged the atmosphere and
용S.
inter would moisten my eyes. I n sitting on his lap, Yoga sitting y, all the while thanking the Lord opportunity to be with Swamiji.
other occasion when we were nd I was hoping to invite Swamiji SYoga who said, "I don't expect Lur place. Many would be waiting Le lecture and be thankful that Iunity to be with him and listen
ti (the base tone) was wafting he Geeta chanting was about to looking for some one when he wamys that I will be going there Ked for more?

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These lovely thoughts woul those early hours of the morn Shrine and calm my mind in
I always considered ourselve when Swamiji himself wash he lived in the consciousnes his devotees knew, loved a body through which all his to humanity - outpourings f
These thoughts came rushing would settle down. I would br air itself was fresh and pure a I got accustomed to worshipp in my mind. I would keep ta' giving me this opportunity e this trip.
Earlier on the first day itsel toss hurting my knee badly trying to tell me dear Guru wrong that you are chiding from something more disast
His lovely figure in the centr saying nothing but giving m with me, why worry!"
And I go on, "Why didn't yol you were still here as you ha to Manila?"
Again it was his smile that "Never mind, you are now h

Cultural Memoirs
d come tumbling down during ing, as I would sit in the Samadhi to contemplation.
slucky and blessed to have lived are in his physical form. Though is that he was not the body, we nd cherished him as that same teachings overflowed to us nay, rom his mind, heart and spirit.
into my memory. Yetgradually eathe deeply and realize that the nd would feel Swamiji's presence. ing the image enlivening Swamiji king mentally thanking him for Even at the last moment to make
fjust behind his Kutiya, I had a and I asked him, "What are you dev? Or have I done something
me? Or are you protecting me rolus?”
e of the Samadhi, seems to smile e a sense of belonging. "You are
1 bring Yogendraji and me when ld promised when you had come
received and he seemed to say, ere; this is all that matters." My

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Sidhabaari — An Ashram nestling in the Hii
eyes would close and I woul “Om Namasivaya.”
I would sit still in deep silen Gurudev guiding me into gre
“Come with me; strainthy mi say. "In the quiet of the Soul, you would possess your spirit but not desolate because you the quenchless inner flame. D silent hour of Truth and kno' Truth, the substance of Divi God," speaks his gentle voice
The cool and fragrant atm mind. This shrine of silence Kingdom of God within the in sound of sense is hushed and
Gurudev often speaks of the a great calm and that one co fearlessness.
"In your inner nature you a within the deepest folds of all outer concerns and ent Upanishadic truth that he s me that when I reach the si quietened mind, I would fo moment of bliss. Through hi peaceful within me in those Sidhabari remembering my not pain.
 

malayan Range. 253
d meditate chanting the mantra
(ce with my eyes closed and feel 2ater silence.
ind no more; be still," he seems to free from the noises of the world, tin stillness. You may be solitary would have the communion with braw within yourself and seek the Wyourself to be the substance of nity. Verily within your heart is
ב ܧ
osphere soothes my anguished is the sacred seat of the Soul, the ner sanctuary of one's mind. The serene peace reigns everywhere.
deep silence deep down as being uld find a sense of strength and
tre free and fearless. And deep silence, there is God. Abandon er the inner chamber," is the eems to reiterate softly telling lence which is the state of the rget everything and witness a sgrace and guidance, I did feel
early hours of the morning in Yoga with a sense of peace and

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The gentle tinkling of the telling me that it is time fo
The Samadhi gets filled u devotees coming in. The S of the Himalayas and the a Pujya Gurudev's Name eve words
Kritajna
"samastajana-kalya na maami cinn
brah Isalute Shri Chinmaya, the
of Brahman (the highest re. ever engaged in
gently flow from within.
i
"Om namaste astu. Bhag Ttryambakaaya Tripura Kkaalaagnirudraaya Sarvesvaraaya, Sada
Om! I bow down to Lor protector of the Univer gods, who has three eye three worlds, who is mas who is the Lord of Pral
 

Cultural Memoirs
puja bell awakens my meditation r Pujya Gurudev's morning aarati.
and as I open my eyes, I see the amadhi is literally at the foothills we inspiring ranges seem to chant 1 as dawn creeps from behind. The
Itaa (Gratitude)
ane niratam karunaamayam ayam devam sadgurum rmavidvaramʼ noble teacher, the best of the knowers ality) and who, full of compassion, is the welfare of all people,
As the flowers are showered we
chant in chorus,
αναη VisνεSναrαα, Μαhαdeνααγα antakaaya, Trikaalaagnikaalaaya Nilakantaaya Mrtyunjayaaya, Sivaaya Sriman Mahaadevaaya Namah.”
'd Shiva who is the Creator and e, who is the greatest among the , who is the annihilator of all the er of sacrificial fire of threekinds, ye(Cause of deluge), one whose

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Sidhabaari — An Ashram nestling in the Hii
throat is blue, who is the ( Lord of all, who is always pr marks of greatness and wh To Him my
As the Aarati is taken, th
“Aarati sri cinmaya sadguruk And with
“ Om Na tatro soorya ł Nemaavidyoto bł Tameva Bhaanta Tasya bhaasaa sa There the Sun Shi There lightnings flash Thatalone is the Radia From its Light,
the lovely ritual ends.
Each one of us waits in th Gurudev's feet, touch the fla the priest. We move out wit with immeasurable love and beloved Pujya Gurudev.
And as I came out the last in - the 10th of October 2007,
actions would bear the frag - my dakshina to this great sa confusions and sorrow and is
 

malayan Range. 255
onqueror of death, who is the opitious, who is possessed of all D is the greatest amongst gods.
prostrations.
e devotees intone in chorus
i, divya roopamoorati karannakçi
the words,
haati na candrataarakam, aanti kuto yamagrih manubhalati Sarvam rvamidam vibhaati,” les not, nor the Stars, not and much less the fire; ice Shining on all creation; all this gives light.
Le queue to pay obeisance to me and receive the prasad from n our hearts full and brimming gratitude, paying homage to our
orning of our stay in Sidhabaari I felt that all my thoughts and rance of my Master's teaching ge who picked me up from my still guiding me on my way.

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Nestling in the spectacular Dh is this Chinmaya Tapovan A: of the Chinmaya Mission. Ap a centre of the Sandeepany Chinmaya Rural Primary H ashram is more special as thi last resting-place — a place ti
Located in the scenic Himal cool climes and fresh air, far of city life, the ashram prov for meditation, spiritual fulf in search of spiritual succou from all parts of the country
Again I hear Nishtamma's vic time, the mountains would the presence of Gurudev mor softly through the atmosph of the morning."
I would reply, "Yes Ammaji mountains yet I am here in G important to me as I appre glistening leaves and foliag even a falling twig - all these helps me to catch a moment and appreciative. This is mc
As one approaches the ashl meets the eye. It appears a ashram gate. He has been p

Cultural Memoirs
Lauladharranges of the Himalayas shram, one of the many retreats art from its importance in being Vedanta course, camps, and the ealth and Training Centre, this sis also Swami Chinmayananda's hat he loved and cherished.
layan mountain ranges, with its away from the maddening crowd ides the environment necessary ilment and introspection. People ir make their way to this ashram 7 and the world.
ice saying, "In a couple of weeks be snow clad and you would feel evhilehis namam vouldresound ere especially in the early hours
I have missed the snow peaked urudev's presence. This is equally ciate the crisp morning sun, the e and the blossoming flowers or ! not only reveal him to me but he intime when my heart is touched st Wonderful to me.“
tam, a huge Murti of Hanumanji is if he is standing guard at the ortrayed in the Veera Hanuman

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Sidhabaari — An Ashram nestling in the Hii
pose which tells us that wes with love remembering God
We were in Sidhabaari forth It was Swamiji who brought this spot he was completely r expansive view of the Dhaula but was overawed by the ve valley is a wind tunnel and heavens tearing apart start and thunder. Dark clouds wi in the skies with lightning c and then. Yet Hanumanji's and it was for this reason tha the winds a lesson.
I remember reading somewh tell his devotees, "I shall t wondered what this could b installing the Wind God's (Pa the entrance. The rains did threatening clouds did beat passion contained.
Tulasidas in the Hanuman presence as "atulita-bala-dh emanlating “bala buddhi vidya knowledge).
This murti that Gurudev i sculpture. A beautiful arati mornings and evenings dail,
 

malayan Range. 257
should be ever ready to serve all all the time as he did.
Le Mastabhishekam of Hanumanji. Hanumanji here. When he chose nesmerized by the breath-taking adhar range, tall and stupendous ry strong and biting winds. The all hell broke loose when the ed pouring down - Water, Wind ould gather, thunder would roll riss-crossing the sky every now presence 'unstorms any storm at Gurudev brought him to teach
ere that Swamiji would smilingly each the winds a lesson." One e and were surprised to see him vana Kumar’s) son Hanumanji at stop; the unruly winds and dark a hasty retreat and nature's raw
Chalisa speaks of Hanumanji's aamam" (immeasurable power) a" (strength, pure mind, Supreme
installed, is a perfect piece of is performed at his feet in the y. On Tuesdays and Saturdays a

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258
special puja is offered with done. This glows softly ath
Gurudev built the ashram housing kutiyas here and entire area. Block by block of several years. All the ele to Hanumanaji but to my sight of his divine work at S plants grew abundantly.
It is to this, Hanumanji mastabhishekam is done ev devotees performed the at the Chalisa - a togethernes Earlier we had spent the fil under Pujya Guruji's guida abhishekan.
"We are gathering together offerings on the holy ma Abhishekam' symbolizes vision in our heads and ove ve express our love as dedi for Him and in Hin who is His idyllic vision in our Tejomayananda.
Even though I had registe the first day of the pujas, opportunity to participate up the ramps, I realized
126 Seven tiers of lights taperii 127 Anointing of the murti wit milk, ghee, sandalwood pas

Cultural Memoirs
vadaimala and a saptaalaathi' is is feet through the dark nights.
at the foothills landscaping and there giving a perfect look to the the ashram was built over a period ments bowed their heads not only mind also to Pujya Gurudev at the idhabaari. The winds dropped and
in kneeling position, that the Bry five years. This year over 1500 phishekam as all the devotees sang is of the Chinmaya family was felt. st three days studying the Chalisa ince in preparation for this august
with one mind to pour our devoted stak of Hanumanji. This Mastak the invocation of self-luminous brflowing love in our hearts. When cated service to the world, as Him. in the hearts of all, we are keeping mastak,” explains Guruji, Swami
red late and was not included in
later I was given the wonderful . As I joined the long lines walking hat it was again Pujya Gurudevs
g upwards 1 consecrated material like water, fruits te et C

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Sidhabaari - An Ashram nestling in the H.
grace that enabled me to pal how important this was for
While the priests kindled th sanctified the waters of the different mantrams, the sa and Anjaneya, the devotees the chanting. The participal me because back at home, participating in these ways.
Thethree days ofpujas, homa atmosphere with mantra vib seated in rows in the Kam rice grains to the figure of prostrated to our little Huna
The Kalasha” puja – a sacre ceremonial kalashas filled W. of India were consecrated v hymns - began next. Gold, s adorned with red and yellow grains), coconut and mang pyramid formation on a rac The carvings on the gold, s resplendent.
The chanting of the reverber Namah," together with the and with each devotee carry the way, the kalasha process lines with Pujya Guruji leadi
128 Offering of flowers and grains 129 Vessels in the shape of chemb
 

malayan Range. 259
ticipate for he must have known
16.
e sacred fire in the kundam and 2 different rivers, repeating the hasranamams of Vishnu, Rama also participated fully by joining Iory effect was indeed special to we seldom see the congregation
ams and the chanting charged the rations. Each individual devotee ala Hall, offered flower petals, Hanumanji. After archana' we manjis.
and inspiring event, where the ith water from all the holy rivers with the holy mantras of Vedic ilver, copper and mud kalashas | sacredthreads, roli akshat (rice ) leaves; these are arranged in k adorned by colourful shawls. ilver and copper kalashas were
ating mantra"O, Ramadhootaya
rituals energize each kalasha ing his kalasha and chanting all ion starts moving in disciplined ng the devotees forabhishekam.

Page 266
Hanumanji looked wonderf poured over him with som
The ritual of abhishekam has sprinkle well" - bathing thi whole ritual of abhishekam
- "When the deity is b of water represents ti Lord and indicates tha be continuous, effortle watching the stream of chanting the mantras. become single pointe shower lovestraightsi
This sacred bath is soaked i reality are cleansing oursel
The ten days spent in Si mantram, “Hari Om! Hari form of greeting in the C listening and watching all exhilarating and unforgett
On the 10th morning as th the vibrant emotion and w meditation. My inward pil my beloved Gurudev and h Guruji and this will remair through the last few years return to Sidhabaari to be resting place that we love
Om Shan

I as the abhishekam waters were ch love and devotion.
a deep significance. It means "to deity. Pujya Guruji explains the
S
thed, the continuous stream Lc unbroken thought of the It our contemplation should SS and single-pointed. While water on the murti and while one's mind cannot help but i." Seeming to say, "Let's om our hearts to His."
in faith and as we bathe him we in
VeS.
dhabaari were wonderful. The Om!” resounds everywhere – the hinmaya fold. I felt spell bound this traditional wonderment - an able experience.
e curtain came down slowly I felt inderful experience of prayer and rimage was guided all the way by 'lped on at every stage lovingly by deep in my heart as I wend myself frmy life. My prayer is that I should ith Gurudev and my Yogendraji - a
i! Shuanti! Shanti!

Page 267
Our first stop was Amman the capital city of Jordon. It is ancient - the ancient amphitheatre carved into the rock is an open air theatre.
The Adriatica - the Liner that We were to travel in lay in her birth at Pier X. in the harbour at Beirut.
 
 
 

The story begins with the Culture of unfurling the National Flag that last morning of Our Stay in Baghdad and takes us through to Rome. The National flag is raised every morning and lowered every evening at Sundown in the embassies and residences.
MAP OF ERUSALAM

Page 268
The story is told through the pensive thot Arabian Sea on their way to La Serenissim
And the couple go to Venice which becor Waterways of Venice and see St. Mark's
 
 
 

ughts of both Nihal and Nandini as they fly over the o, Venice.
es a healing balm as they ride the gondola along the quare.

Page 269
"Let's take the pages on the Nallur festival a by the family.
"In the figure of the six faced Arumugam th ing multilimbed images forgoing the realisti
 
 
 
 

eartistingeniously hints at thernet chiseC delineation of the human anatom.

Page 270
n wews
Kaveri's Kitchen
 
 

- as she had planned i

Page 271
Early stages in C
 
 
 

~' = – – — = Ο ΕΤ
2
In ming — 5th centuny
-
達峰這毫
hinese brush work painting

Page 272
ever changing, ever flowin
Bathing in the sacred waters of the River spanning about a month, inspiri
 
 

Sanga in Haridwaris Kumbha Mela — a short story d by the event of our going to Haridwar.

Page 273
He provided shelter for the Gods and intro god-king cult-the Devaraja Cult where the Shiva with the king.
 

The Four Enigmatic Faces is the story of Angkor – anarchitectural legacy left from the ancient world and its people the Khmers.
luced a mysterious ambience by Creating the Ssence of royalty was in the Lingam that linked

Page 274
are
u - |့်် . . . . . . . . It: | - R
3.
་་་་་་་་་་་་་་་་་་་་་་་་་་
饑纂
Franka
Chakan
a:
A.
感激魏
ada 9 86% نقشهير இ u
慘*囊
Kawatadi **
స్గ్ళ
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

The Kilaali Crossing
ടർ
agi tells her story

Page 275
Dr. Kannanga based on the
delivered in O
In Memorium a compilation paid to Yogen
My Diplomat the Biography
The Gentle Br
a collection of the Chinmaya
The Ancient 5
Connenorati
The Creative based on Hind Published by
The Footfalls di the life story o published by
Monents in C a compilation published by
Third Edition o published by Cultural Affairs
Yogaswamipublished by t of the Sage 20
 

spective on Education and a's philosophy of Educationannagara Memorial Oration tober 1998.
of tributes
fra Duraiswamy 1999
of Yogendra Duraiswamy - March 2000.
ezes of Early Dawn -
Hindu Thoughts published by Mission in Colombo 2002
bng the the Maha Kumbhabhishekam ouches of the Chiselu Sculputre and Architecture jitha Yapa publications - 2004
n Time —
Hindu personages jitha Yapa publications 2006
ture
of Short Stories and Memoirs jitha Yapa publication 2009
Remembering Hindu Traditions he Department of Hindu Religious and
2012.
A Writing set in Landscapes
e Siva Yogaswami Trust-the bo

Page 276
The stories in this sequel are inspired by eve essentially fiction. The paintings are mine both In my writings whether fiction or non-fiction, re.
The first story speaks of the last days of their p Baghdad via Jordan, Syria and Lebanon to the train to Rome, Italy.
Astory of a king-for contesting the District De that the contestant explained that he was with
The story of Nihaland Nandiniportrays a mixed and a young Tamilgirl -a divorsee. The Working
The story of a spiritual Retreat is set in Tiruvan rise up from the sea and go back to the sea, th Thee again turning in many eddies."
One may have seen pictures, heard about th Whatever heard, read or seen all fall short of the ture and art Work.
The Aadi Amaiavasai Ceremonies speak of the tr
in narrating Her story Goddess Kannagi Speaks Hindus and Buddhists
When the Sri Lankan army had stretigally occup rest of the country, the LTTE younger brigade business - how dangerous was it?
RS 7OOOO
ISBN 978-955-66.5-247-5 9. | www.vijithayapa.com www.sriankanbooks.com
 

tS during our lifetime. However, these are
in the Cover page and the inner page.
ligious themes feature into the story
5ivататdini Dигаiswaту
OSting in Baghdad followed by the trip from port of Beirut to sail to Napoli and then by
From Baghdad to Rome
velopment Council in Jafna despite the fact
rawing from the fray
A Senseless Killing
marriage between a young Sinhala diplomat
of karma is delineated in this story
Мааламаттайт.
aanaai in South India. US as the Waters Soul in man rising up from Thee will join
Tiruvanaanalai - the Spiritual Retreat
e Angkor Temples in Cambodia. However, stupendous and beautiful temple architec
Four Enigmatic Faces
aditions of ones last journey
The Inevitable Journey
of bringing peace and harmony amidst the
Kanagi Narates her Story
ed the A9 Road connecting the North to the ade the crossing of the lagoon a lucrative
The Kilala Crossing